[Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7
*Hello Everyone from a Very Cool Heart of Dixie* * What has to be done to the L7 to get it to work on 10 Mtrs? Now before you get too technical on me remember I'm Dumb as a Rock, so please explain in lets say Electronics for Dummies mode.* *Thanks * *Woody* -- * * * If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. * * * * ** If you are including me in a multi-address email,** please use the** Bcc **feature.** In your email address which will be under the TO: block. It still sends emails the same but everyone does not see the other address only theirs. * *Thanks* *Woody* ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7
Woody and Everyone, There are four basic things that have to be done on an L7 to get it on 10 meters. 1. Bypass/remove the 10 meter filter board on the input circuit. 2. Remove the mechanical stop on the bandswitch; there are at least two, and possibly more, ways in which Drake implemented it so you have to adjust your approach commensurate with what was used on your amp. It can get ugly and be aware of dropped parts that go into unwanted places. Use of blue Painters' tape can help to catch the falling parts. 3. Install two 68 pf mica caps on the input circuit per the article that is out on the Internet. I have it but don't have time right now to post the link or reference. Removing the bandswitch shaft is necessary to do this properly. 4. Adjust the 15 meter input coil as warranted. 73, Evan, K9SQG -Original Message- From: Woody ko4...@gmail.com To: Drake List drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Wed, Oct 19, 2011 7:40 am Subject: [Drakelist] 10 Mtrs on a L7 Hello Everyone from a Very Cool Heart of Dixie What has to be done to the L7 to get it to work on 10 Mtrs? Now before you get too technical on me remember I'm Dumb as a Rock, so please explain in lets say Electronics for Dummies mode. Thanks Woody -- If you forward this e-mail, please delete the forwarding history, which includes my email address. It is a courtesy to me and to others who do not wish to have their e-mail addresses sent all over the world. If you are including me in a multi-address email, please use the Bcc feature. In your email address which will be under the TO: block. It still sends emails the same but everyone does not see the other address only theirs. Thanks Woody ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] L7 10 meter mod reference?
10Meter%20Adaptation%20for%20Drake%20L7,%20Drake,%20tr4,%20tr7,%20drake%20radio,%20drake%20receiver,%20drake%20transceiver,%20ham%20radio%20equipment,%20ham%20radio%20receivers,%20radio%20equipment.webarchive___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] For Sale, TR7 and R7A
Good day Group: I have for sale a Drake TR7 with the PS7 power supply and all cables. The TR7 has all four filters. I also have an R7A and a Shure 444 desk mike. All are in excellent, practically brand new physical condition. The only problem I can find with them is that The TR7 VFO scrolls on 20 and 10 meters and the R7A VFO scrolls on the highest band. Folks on this forum have sent me detailed instructions on how to fix the scrolling problem (i.e. clean and re-seat all the circuit cards to the motherboard). I have made QSO's on 40 and 75 meters with the TR7 and the reports are very good. I am offering the TR7/PS7 and mike for $450.00 plus shipping and the R7A for $250.00 plus shipping. The whole shebang can be had for $600.00 plus shipping. Please contact me off forum at *dpeter...@tds.net* I will be happy to answer any questions you may have and I have photos of the equipment. Thanks, -- 73, Dan - W7OIL *=== = = = = === === === === = = = === === === = = = === = = ** * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] Drake equipment for sale
The Drake equipment has been sold. Thanks to all for responding. The lucky winner will remain anonymous because of the possibility of vendettas or retaliatory air strikes. 8^) -- 73, Dan - W7OIL *=== = = = = === === === === = = = === === === = = = === = = ** * ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] for sale
good home needed for: TR4C, AC4, MS4 station including Shure 444 communications mike. In very good condition interior and exterior. Ready to play. $530.00 plus shipping Please reply direct, thank you 72 Ron, wb1hga ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs
Neil, I use the Chemical version of white out. Basically paint it on, wipe excess, and then as it drys, use you fingernail to clean up any left over splashed or smeared edges. I have done this on some pretty dingy knobs, and they end up looking great. My R4B line had it done in the early 80s and they still look great. I have a Uniden HR2600 (why didn't Drake put FM in the TR7?) which I painted lines into the unmarked indent on the knobs. Looks and works great for these old eyes. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 10/18/11, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com Subject: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2011, 9:37 PM I noticed the white bars on my Drake knobs are turning brown. Can I us alcohol on the knobs to clean them? I used alcohol to clean a black plastic case of a clock and it left a film that can't be removed. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs
On Wed, 19 Oct 2011 15:53:36 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote: I use the Chemical version of white out. Basically paint it on, wipe excess, and then as it drys, use you fingernail to clean up any left over splashed or smeared edges. I use Testors gloss white model paint, in the tiny glass bottles, applied with a toothpick. It's cheap and durable. I've found that the original paint often is quite soft, and is easily removed with a toothpick. This leaves a clean surface for the new paint. I have a Uniden HR2600 (why didn't Drake put FM in the TR7?) which I painted lines into the unmarked indent on the knobs. Looks and works great for these old eyes. Same as above, but with an HR-2510 (why didn't Uniden put lines on their knobs?). You can actually see a picture of it on my 2510 page: http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney/2510.htm 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
[Drakelist] R-4B and T-4XB's for sale
Hey, - Pete - I bought an R-4B and T-4XB from Bob. I was a fairly-early purchaser and was somewhat disappointed because they were represented as an 8 out of 10. The transmitters were represented as maybe not working/untested. The transmitter was so heavily modified that I consider it to be a parts rig. I have scavenged knobs, a PTO and other parts off it to make it worth the final $75 price that I negotiated for it. I just want to make sure everyone here knows what they're getting into (and I mean this as no criticism of your post, Pete, as I learned the hard way here). Many of you remember some of my posts of the last couple of months mentioning the R-4B and T-4XB that I bought. These were from this same source, from the same estate, obviously, as the receiver mods look identical to what's on the R-4B that I bought. Whilst the receiver worked fine out of the box, after I did an alignment per the factory specs, I've found that the AGC is pretty messed up and there were some significant mods done to the rear panel jacks and to the audio amp - in addition to the AGC mods. I just want to make you all aware that you will have to do a significant amount of work to get to a factory-spec rig. If you're not a purist, I do see an ergonomic opportunity to the rigs that underwent the surgical knife of this ham (as the mods were well-crafted and, in some instances, were electrically superior to the factory build). The major one is that extra knob on the front panel. When I first saw it, I got almost sick. However, Drake had never changed the chassis behind that extra knob and had conveniently provided a target area on their silkscreen which was transmitted to the final front panel. The chassis always had a cutout and so the only place injured by the mod was the front panel. My opinion is that a headphone jack on a receiver belongs on the front and NOT on the side, so the best way of dealing with this extra hole is to install a headphone jack in place of the extra pot. If ever you find an R-4B with an extra pot or hole in the front, I'd wire it with a stereo jack (with the channels shorted) and be done with it. Pete, I'd love to see what you've found with the R-4B you purchased, as it would give me a head start when I'm ready to rebuild the R-4B that I bought. I will commence that exercise after I wash and re-cap an subsequent R-4B that is unmolested that I bought at the Shelby (NC) Hamfest as the only extant Drake Twin offering that I found there... 73, Steve, W1ES/4 ...my Joe Walsh quote is buried somewhere. Illigitimi non carborundum .Message: 1 Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 19:37:29 -0700 From: Pete Juliano jessyst...@broadstripe.net To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: [Drakelist] R4B and T4XB's FS Message-ID: BD55C5B7E01A488D8D9D95A60F11A0DC@UNIT0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Hi Fellow Drake Fans, I am posting this for a friend of mine who has been tasked to liquidate the estate of a SK. Disclaimer --I have no financial interest in any of the transactions. I just happen to be one of the early buyers of some of the radios and have managed to resurrect an R4B and T4B and have put them back in operation. There is a you tube of my R4B fix and a summary of what I had to do. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gscCpiuo9cA Basically the R4B had some modifications and I suspect the same mod was made to all of the radios and that is covered in my video. Aside from undoing the modifications, two tubes needed replacing and a basic alignment and that was it. Needless to say there was a bit of dirt and dust. Here is what is left and a paraphrase of what is on a QTH.com ad and is from W9ETA , Bob. He should be contacted directly at cbrx...@hotmail.com; 3 R.L. Drake T4xb's and 1 R4b left. They all need work. Consider them parts radio's or rebuilds. Most all parts are there but they need one thing or another such as alignment or tubes. All have covers. Detailed photographs are available upon request to W9ETA W9ETA can help with parts too as he has a fairly large asst of Drake parts. $90 each plus $20 shipping on the T4xb's and R4b. He Also has a Drake AA-10 amp with box and manual. $30 shipped . Listing #940619 - Submitted on 09/26/11 by Callsign W9ETA, Modified on 10/17/11 Any inquiries aside from those relating to the undoing of the modifications should be directed to Bob, W9ETA 73's Pete N6QW Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 To be is to do - Socrates To do is to be - Plato Do be do be do. - Sinatra All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs
Got a couple of the following question: What is the chemical version of white out? The non-water based stuff. The water based stuff does not seem to hold up or stick as well on the plastic knobs. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Wed, 10/19/11, Ron wd8...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Ron wd8...@yahoo.com Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com Date: Wednesday, October 19, 2011, 6:53 PM Neil, I use the Chemical version of white out. Basically paint it on, wipe excess, and then as it drys, use you fingernail to clean up any left over splashed or smeared edges. I have done this on some pretty dingy knobs, and they end up looking great. My R4B line had it done in the early 80s and they still look great. I have a Uniden HR2600 (why didn't Drake put FM in the TR7?) which I painted lines into the unmarked indent on the knobs. Looks and works great for these old eyes. 73, Ron WD8SBB --- On Tue, 10/18/11, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote: From: Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com Subject: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net Date: Tuesday, October 18, 2011, 9:37 PM I noticed the white bars on my Drake knobs are turning brown. Can I us alcohol on the knobs to clean them? I used alcohol to clean a black plastic case of a clock and it left a film that can't be removed. ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] Cleaning bar knobs
I have used both white paint and lacquer sticks. I prefer the paint myself. Apply the paint, give it a minute or so to partially dry, then wipe off the excess with a paper towel moistened with paint thinner or mineral spirits. 73, Gary___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
