[Drakelist] Virtual Drake

2015-03-14 Thread Don Rasmussen
I have been coding some cool analog meters for SDRSharp, a SDR program.
The latest features my R4C, some on the list may have an interest.


http://tinyurl.com/la6na6a

http://tinyurl.com/la6na6a


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Re: [Drakelist] Virtual Drake

2015-03-14 Thread Don Rasmussen
Jim, I can do a TR-7 meter but need a very high resolution, well lit photograph 
taken directly in front of the meter.   I have C and B line but no TR7... 

Don 
wb8yqj at Yahoo dot-com

Re: [Drakelist] Virtual Drake
Jim Shorney Sat, 14 Mar 2015 20:49:00 -0700
Sweet! Please do a TR-7 Meter! 73
-Jim
NU0C


http://tinyurl.com/la6na6a

http://tinyurl.com/la6na6a


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[Drakelist] Virus on the list - DONT click msnbc.msn link

2012-11-15 Thread Don Rasmussen
Guys,
There is a virus going around - click this link (msnbc.msn.com-us) with your 
email open and all recipients in your contacts will get the virus email. As far 
as I can tell your computer will not be infected by clicking on this but all 
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Re: [Drakelist] C-Line RTTY

2012-01-05 Thread Don Cunningham
I'm afraid to advise on RTTY anymore since I learned I am the village idiot on 
RTTY.  Only ran in since 1968, so I'm still learning, but FSK is better, even 
if I'm wrong again!!  
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB

2012-01-05 Thread Don Cunningham
John,
Normal AM carrier can only be had with a true, plate modulated rig.  The 
Drakes don't have enough iron or a heavy enough modulator to do much more than 
controlled carrier.  I've seen mods, but.  I sure wouldn't do it to 
my Drakes.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] C-Line RTTY

2012-01-05 Thread Don Cunningham
How could anyone possibly tell the difference between FSK and the SSB/AFSK 
equal?   

Well, let's start with being off frequency all the time because the default on 
MMTTY and other programs is that #$* crap they call ATC I think.  Whenever 
anyone answers me so far off I have to use RIT, that's what they are doing.  
Then, there are the SEVERELY overdriven audio circuits making the audio tones 
splatter about 4 kc wide.  Should I continue??  You WILL see it all on any 
contest weekend.

Rant off, and back to my hole.
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Re: [Drakelist] FS: R-4B and a T-4XB

2012-01-05 Thread Don Cunningham
Oh, good grief.  I'm outa here.  You all have a nice year and CU some other 
time.

Opinions are worth about what you pay for them.
Later,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] C-Line RTTY

2012-01-04 Thread Don Cunningham

Bob,
On RTTY, peaks are the same as average.  It is continuous duty.  I wouldn't 
run the T4XC much over 50W, with tubes as expensive as they are today if it 
were me.  You have to make your own choice, but there is a BIG difference in 
the duty cycles of SSB and sound card RTTY.  For sure I wouldn't run much 
over 75W, and then with a LOT of fan moving hot air out!!  I know, Garey, 
you ran T4XB's full out for years, HI HI.  6JB6's were 2 buck apiece at the 
TV shop too!

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another AC-4 rebuild (almost) completed

2012-01-02 Thread Don Cunningham
Good job, Mark!!  Thanks for documenting that one for all of us.  It does 
look great, and is definitely a good alternative for those that want the 
original look.  Please do document your relay addition.  I have one of 
those on a Collins 516F2 that I bought with an S1 Line, and it does help the 
switch greatly.


Tom has always done a great job on all the kits he has put together for 
me.  He will be honest and tell you that the AC4R kit is cheaper, that's 
just the way Tom is, but he does make a VERY good product as I have said 
before.


 He will make right problems too.  I found out that there are two different 
can caps for the R-388 Collins, one being nearly 1 longer than the other. 
A quick email to Tom that I must have gotten the wrong one, and I got the 
right one from him right away.  First rate in my book and I own NO stock in 
Tom's company, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK


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Re: [Drakelist] Creeping plate current

2012-01-02 Thread Don Cunningham
That would be my first guess, John.  Have you rebuilt the AC4??  If not, 
it's Heathkit Shop time, hi.  I don't think I'd do the bias cap and leave 
the other time bombs in there myself.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity

2012-01-02 Thread Don Cunningham
On the first question, I have heard of the solder melting out of the pins on 
the filaments of both the 3-500Z and the 3-400's.  If that has happened to 
your tube, you might be able to just re-solder it and be okay.  Some have 
said to silver solder it, but it seems to me that silver solder requires an 
awful lot of heat and I would be careful doing that.


Second question:  I wouldn't think that was a good idea, but then I'm no 
expert, so hope Evan is out there, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

2012-01-02 Thread Don Cunningham

David,
I think you will find that in any group.  One group will ONLY stay stock, 
even going so far as to gut and re-stuff paper caps with new poly caps, 
remelting beeswax back in the ends!  The other group to the other side will 
make it a whole new radio (look at the reworked TR7 on WB4HFN's site for 
an example of that!!  The braid mod you mentioned was a Drake factory fix to 
a problem found.  There are many such things Drake put out to fix known 
engineering oversights.  They remained in business for MANY years past the 
sales of the first rigs, and found need to do that for most of the line. 
That's just not the same thing as the full Monte Sherwood job.


 What most of us said to the original question was that it was up to how he 
intended to use the rig and what he expected to get out of it when he was 
finished with it.  If using it from now on, do what you want.  If fixing 
it to use and sell in a few months, you won't get close to your investment 
back.  Most threads get hijacked and twisted, that's one of the problems 
with lists.


In the end, each man (or woman's) gear is theirs, and they should do what 
they wish with it.  If you ask, you should be ready to get ALL views, not 
just the ones you wanted to get, hi.

73, and enjoy those Drakes, or Frankendrakes, both,
Don, WB5HAK




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Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: W9TO KEYER

2012-01-02 Thread Don Cunningham

Al,
The HA-1 manual is on edebris.com for the downloading in pdf unless the 
original article has more info.  Shame to mess up your vintage handbook if 
the schematic is all he needs.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity

2012-01-02 Thread Don Cunningham
Thanks for that clarification, Garey.  I had never heard of silver-bearing 
solder.  I've told you that I never was in electronics professionally, and 
only had the minimal USN training for radio ops, not the Electronics Techs 
that did get the full, good stuff, hi.


The silver solder I was referring to I used as a young lad in an 
electrician's shop and had something to do with an appliance I had to 
repair.  Now, this was 1963 or 64, so forgive my loss of memory on what it 
was, hi.  I remembered using a small torch on a small gas bottle of some 
sort and it got REALLY hot, much more than I would use on a tube pin.  Your 
explanation tells me now that I was at least partially correct.


That said, would you recommend silver-bearing solder in the 3-400/3-500's if 
we run across this problem in our amps??  I use 63/37 here nearly all the 
time, only use the 60/40 outside on the antenna wires in a larger size and 
was afraid the 63/37 would melt too easily.

73,and thanks as always,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] L-4B

2012-01-01 Thread Don Cunningham
Bill,
I am a novice at the L4B, but many of the old T4XB's I got at hamfests in the 
80's and repaired had been re-tuned for 11 meters instead of 10M.  You might 
check the input tuning and see if that occurred to yours!!  Just a thought.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] L-4B

2012-01-01 Thread Don Cunningham
Good thought, Dino.  I didn't think of that one!!!  Happy New Year to you and 
the wife as well.  Good to see you in print.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit

2011-12-25 Thread Don Cunningham
Ken,
Thanks so much for those links.  I had been looking for a source of similar 
brushes, and the D-100L small bottle so I could meet the minimum sales, and MCM 
seems to have all the things I have been looking for.  I bought from them for 
years when I was in the school business, not sure why I don't think of them 
more often for my private purchases.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] A Great Source for Real HC-6/U Crystals

2011-12-19 Thread Don Cunningham
Lee,
I'm really not understanding your posts I have seen on several venues today.  
There's not really a coorelation between the HC-6/U crystal and the FT-243, 
unless my old memory is worse than I think.  Aren't those two separate types of 
crystals, different spacing, different pin size, etc???

As far as HC-6/U's go, you can buy them from International Crystal, in Oklahoma 
City for around $20 per crystal and know that they meet or exceed the original 
specs that Drake, Collins, etc used when these rigs were new.  Why go to all 
the trouble of ordering overseas??

Now, if Vincent makes FT-243 type crystals, or HC-6/U types with FT-243 sized 
pins, then I DO understand and would be interested.  I miss being able to buy 
C-W crystals since they went out of business.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] 5 watt levels

2011-12-17 Thread Don Cunningham

Ron,
I would think that the only reliable way to accomplish QRP with the Drake 
rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good 
transmitting attenuator pad and use up the wattage in that pad.  Many 
examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their many 
transmitters feed the kilowatt desk amp they built.  I'm planning to do 
that to feed some of my transmitters into my Alpha amp which needs a low 
drive level.  You do need to watch for overshoot upon initial keying, I am 
told in some literature.


Otherwise, the old dummy load (light bulb if you want to see your keying) on 
the end of a coax tee, then use the small sampling used normally to see 
the signal on an oscilloscope, might be just enough power to suit your 
needs.  Either way wastes the power, but could heat and briefly light your 
shack, hi hi.  (Tongue firmly in cheek).

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake AC-3/AC-4 power supply rebuild kits

2011-12-03 Thread Don Cunningham

Mark,
You are right.  Tom would never violate safety for sales.  He would just 
turn you down.  I completely understand your wanting to keep it original, 
I would just caution folks to do this for themselves and enjoy the rigs 
whichever way chosen.


If we are doing this for an investment in funds, I think we are fooling 
ourselves.  The nice range of old, nice Model T's and A's that had fortunes 
spent on them, and are rusting away in barns now because of a lack of 
interest in them might be a lesson.  I think the interest in tube gear may 
well be resting with those of us now interested, is all I was saying.


Keeping original or making a good working user should be up to the 
individual, and either way accepted by the rest.  I will admit to having 
both, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake AC-3/AC-4 power supply rebuild kits

2011-12-02 Thread Don Cunningham
Tom's kits are first rate,AND he is an honest gentleman.  I asked about a 
kit for my AC4, after seeing Jeff's article in Electric Radio magazine, and 
he told me how much more than the Heathkit shop offering it would have to 
be.  I have had such good luck with Mike's kits for the AC4 that I haven't 
changed over, but I may do just one in the future to see if I can tell any 
difference.  I sincerely doubt it, other than the looks.  You'll probably 
need to save the paper sleeves off a couple if you want to be truly 
original looking.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Overload

2011-11-01 Thread Don Cunningham

Neil,
These old Drake rigs are communications rig, not general coverage SW rigs. 
Drake did make models that are, but not your R4A.  There are circuits to 
deliberately block these strong AM stations so that they do not interfere 
on 160m (1.8 to 2.0) or their images on 80m even.  Without defeating the 
input filtering, you are just stuck with what the Drake designers had to 
fight, AM interference from strong broadcasters on the lower ham bands. 
Neil, I mean this in a positive way, so don't take it any other way, but you 
ask an awful lot of questions and it would be helpful if we know if you are 
a ham or not, and some about yourself so we have an idea of your level of 
radio knowledge.  That way we don't give dumb answers and can tailor 
questions better to that level.  I am an old, retired educator and always 
did a better job knowing what my students knew.

73,
Don, 



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Re: [Drakelist] AC-3 vs AC-4

2011-10-29 Thread Don Cunningham

Steve,
If I remember correctly, the finals in the TR3 are 12JB6's, not 6JB6's so 
not compatible with the T4(any).  My memory isn't what it used to be, but 
that's what comes through the fog.  There's also no cover over the top of 
the power supply.  If you use the Heathkit Shop's board, download his 
special instructions for putting it in the AC3.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] A dumb ? maybe TR-7 case color

2011-10-28 Thread Don Cunningham

They all look black to me, Curt.  But then, I confuse socks too, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question

2011-10-25 Thread Don Cunningham
Pete,
Your question has already been answered before I got home, BUT I will say two 
things that the others didn't.  Tom, at Hayseed Hamfest, AND his family go out 
of their way to be sure that you get exactly what you need, at a reasonable 
price and do it all in a friendly manner and QUICKLY!!  I have bought MANY kits 
from Tom, and always get the same, fast, friendly service.  I highly recommend 
him and have NO ties other than I consider him a friend for all his help to me.

Secondly, I wouldn't begin to work on ANY of my Drakes without Garey's CD for 
that unit.  It takes away the guesswork of the wrong schematic and shows you 
enough to put things back as they belong, not the way someone else wanted them 
to be.  Garey's CD is like a Sam's photofact, but even handier because the 
photos are in color and closeups are given that show individual boards and 
parts as needed.

There, now you know more than you wanted to know, but Garey isn't going to blow 
his own horn, nor is Tom, so I tooted away for the both of them!!!  

73,
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[Drakelist] Soldering Gear for Can Caps

2011-10-25 Thread Don Cunningham
I like the Weller D550 gun.  It has 200W for low, 260 for high, and if you 
keep a good tip in it, and the setscrews freshly tightened, it works well 
and gets a lot of heat in where you need it.  I tape the wires around the 
area away from it though, hi.  The trigger is counter intuitive too, if you 
read the paper that comes with it (which I never had before).  First click 
is high, all the way back is low.  Seems backwards to me but you can get 
used to it.  Solders PL connectors well too, but you need to be quick at the 
process.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseedcaps site

2011-10-25 Thread Don Cunningham
Looks to me like he is still updating.  He needed to, as MOST of his kits 
weren't even listed, hi.  I've been chiding him for a while, so maybe it has 
had its effect and he will show more of what he has.  Give him a day or so, 
or just email him at sa...@hayseedhamfest.com and tell him what you want and 
he will respond even this late.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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[Drakelist] TR7 questions AGC

2011-09-27 Thread Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works

Hi Ian,

There is no risk performing the all band TX mod on the TR7 and it is
an easy way to get the WARC bands using the UP-DOWN buttons. I used that
method before I installed the AUX7 module.

Regarding the AGC.  Do you want something faster than the current FAST
setting via the front panel AGC switch (F/S)?  Or do you want it to
change with the mode selection?  I haven't seen any such modification
as it's kind of nice to be able to select the AGC speed independently of
the mode.  I would assume if you feel the current FAST isn't fast enough
that we couldn't dig into the schematic and play with a resistor value
that could speed it up more.  I just haven't read of anyone who felt it
was to slow in the FAST setting.

73

Don N9OO
www.radiolabworks.com


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Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?

2011-09-09 Thread Don Cunningham
I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A 
at the suggestion of a friend.  I don't notice the thump on the 
transformer anymore, so it may just be enough of a delay to help protect 
switches, transformers, etc.  Sure initially looks like cheap insurance!! 
I'll post something again after I've really tested this longer term.  I will 
try one on an AC4 also.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] On...or off?

2011-09-09 Thread Don Cunningham
That's about what I did here, Jim.  I used the GE CL40 (5a unit) and it 
works well.  It does get warm, but not hot and does do the job.  Mouser's 
part number is 527-CL40 and they aren't expensive new.  Postage will get you 
if you don't need other devices, however!!  I usually need other things, so 
that's not a problem here, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Yet Another TR7 Question

2011-09-08 Thread Don Cunningham
So true on the computer power strips.  Okay, I will still look at my parts 
rig to make sure that switch is good on it.  I haven't had much luck with 
repairing those, but may try again.  It can't get much worse, hi.  As I told 
Curt off list, my service manual isn't lost, it's just in a safe place where 
I can't lose it, HI.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] R4B PTO indicator...

2011-09-07 Thread Don Cunningham
Thanks, Paul, I wanted to say it was that easy, but as I said, I haven't 
been there so wasn't sure.  It wasn't worth tearing the case off mine to 
see, hi.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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[Drakelist] Yet Another TR7 Question

2011-09-07 Thread Don Cunningham

Garey,
Help an old man's brain remember something from the past.  If the AC fan on 
my TR7 runs after I shut off the RCVR GAIN switch, does that tell me that 
the DC portion of the switch is working, but the other side, the AC side 
is not??  I seem to remember that the TR7 has separate sections on that 
switch, and thought I'd ask before I pull the panel down, OR I'll just turn 
it off and on with the power strip and be happy, hi.  I do have a parts rig 
with perhaps a good switch in it.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] What would you do?

2011-09-05 Thread Don Cunningham
Steve,
This one of those questions where you will probably end up split 50/50 and just 
have to make the decision yourself BUT you asked, so I'll take it on.  You have 
to first decide what your goal is, do you want a pristine collectable that 
may or may not be worth squat later, OR do you want to operate with a nice 
sounding, well working old tube rig???  Answer that and you'll know which way 
to go.  If eye candy is critical, by all means sell it well represented to 
someone that wants one that works and cares less about appearance.

I can say this, as I had to decide the very same thing myself and the working 
rig won out.  I've just spent a VERY pleasurable Labor Day afternoon working 
guys on 20m with my resurected TR4C that is okay, but NOT a shelf queen and NOT 
a prime example of a TR4C.  It DOES work very well, output is nice, and 
everyone LOVES the audio on transmit.  What more can I ask for???  I must admit 
that the 4 element quad at 73' out back doesn't hurt a bit, hi hi.

At the same time, when I set out to find my C Line this time, I demanded the 
highest serial numbers and wanted pristine examples, so I have both and enjoy 
both.  I have a shack FULL of Drakes, Collins, Heathkits, Johnson, etc, but I 
prefer some of the ugliest units for rag chewing, hi.  

Whatever you choose, just enjoy them, Steve.  Operate often and use the one 
that sounds the best.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] R4B

2011-08-22 Thread Don Cunningham
Brian,
Garey has likely already sent you the schematics you need, and he won't tell 
you about this, BUT I will!!!  Garey sells a CD set for the B Line that will 
knock your socks off (shows you how old I am, huh??)!!!  It has photographs, 
labels parts locations and ALL kinds of data you need to keep that B line 
running well.  Check it out on his site, WWW.K4OAH.com .   I have each of his 
CD for the Drakes I have and find them the best tool I have.

 There, now you know the secret, and the author is on hand to help with 
problems, what a bonus that is!!
73, and enjoy the B Line, I know you will,
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Re: [Drakelist] Cooling fan

2011-08-22 Thread Don Cunningham
It's a VERY good idea to run fans on the tops of our tube Drakes.  Tubes are 
getting higher and higher and harder to find.  A slow moving fan, sucking air 
out of the cabinet will lower the temperature to cool to the touch, in my 
experience!!  I put rubber feet on the fans or a piece of insulating foam 
around the rim, and let them run.  Good 220v ones will run slowly on 110v, and 
provide plenty of cooling.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Re: [Drakelist] Unsubscribe to emails

2011-08-19 Thread Don Cunningham
Russ,
You have to do this one yourself.  Info is given at the bottom of each email.  
The unsubscribe must be done from the same email address that started the 
process.  It behooves us all to remember that when we change email addresses 
(don't ask how I know this so well!!!).
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-08-19 Thread Don Cunningham
Oops, you are sure right, Bud!!  Man, am I wrong twice in the same evening  
New high for me.  (or low)??  I think the rules are the same though, just 
follow the Drakelist link.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 pushbuttons....

2011-08-18 Thread Don Cunningham

Fred,
Some of the cheap Bic pens have a top that the upper 1/2 or 3/4 of which is 
a reasonable facsimile of the switch levers which seem to be unobtainium, as 
far as I could find, even several years ago!!  The ones I find are black 
ink, and are really close if you can saw that upper piece off and epoxy it 
to the lever.  Maybe someone else will have another suggestion, but that 
will work.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 pushbuttons....

2011-08-18 Thread Don Cunningham

Fred,
I should stress, use a LITTLE expxy on those lids or they are permanent, hi. 
Someone years ago went the trouble of somehow filling those hollow pen caps 
with a resin of some sorts and inserted shafts in the uncured resin and had 
a nice fit when they cured up.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] L4-B on AM

2011-08-15 Thread Don Cunningham
Thanks Tim and others for the excellent descriptions.  That was what my old 
mind and reading and re-reading the manuals told me would work.  I have a nice 
Johnson Viking II that I will use for plate modulated AMing, and don't plan to 
amplify what it can do,  I also know to modify the DX-60 to control the output 
betterand modify for PTT before using it with the L4B.  I have the information 
to do that right after I change the electrolytics that look original, hi.
Thanks again to all,
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Re: [Drakelist] New Toys!

2011-08-15 Thread Don Cunningham
No, the panel builder quit.  I guess he either felt he had made what people 
wanted or just had a day job and got tired of it.  That burnout is what gets 
most of them, unfortunately.  If it's a nice R4B, put a hole plug in it 
temporarily and keep an eye out for a unit that's parted out.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] L4-B on AM

2011-08-14 Thread Don Cunningham
I too would be interested in the L4B's performance/use on AM.  I may use the 
DX-60 or T4XC as the driver, but same question, hi.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] HC6/U

2011-08-09 Thread Don Cunningham
I think you have asked this before, Neil.  From August 6 this year, and 
quoted from Garey's answer to you:


Quick answer:  Yes and No.

Yes, the same crystals will work in both, but are (or should really be) 
different.


The R-4 BAND oscillator is a tube, and the crystals are probably (or should 
be) parallel resonant,

cut for a 32 pF parallel load.

The R-4A BAND oscillator is a bipolar transistor and the crystals are (or 
should be) series

resonant, series resistance less than 30 ohms.

ALL T-4X(any) are bipolar transistor, series resonant.

Now, that said, either will 'work' in either, but will resonate at a 'few' 
kHz different frequency,
proportional to crystal frequency.  I believe some of the band-to-band 
variations seem in some
receivers is the result of swapping crystals from unit to unit.  The 
original specification was +/-
0.003% of marked frequency, (+/- 210 Hz @ 7 MHz,) with modern International 
Crystal Mfr crystals
typically much closer than that.  A SET of new crystals from ICM will 
typically be within a few tens

of Hz from band to band.

Once again, more than anyone wanted to know, but .   I can't help 
myself!  :-)


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Neil M Califano wrote:

Quick question: Do the R4 and the R4A take the same crystals?




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Re: [Drakelist] Tom Hammond, N0SS, silent key

2011-08-06 Thread Don Cunningham

Jim,
That is indeed sad news.  Tom was one of those special guys that knew just 
how to help a guy who asked.  He will indeed be missed.

73, Tom,
Don, WB5HAK 



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[Drakelist] RV-75 For Sale

2011-07-30 Thread Don Cunningham
Is anyone interested in buying a Drake RV-75 for your TR7??  If you are also 
running the Drake R7 with your station and are interested in the RV75, 
please let me know as I might have another item of interest to you, hi.  No 
fire sale, so don't expect it to be cheaper than I gave, but I don't want a 
fortune either.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] SW Crystals Suggestions for the R-4B?

2011-07-26 Thread Don Cunningham
Aaron,
I notice that no one has really answered your question.  For my listening 
enjoyment, I like the ranges 5.5 to 6.0, 6.0 to 6.5, 9.0 to 9.5, 9.5 to 10, 
11.5 to 12, 15.0 to 15.5 and 17.5 to 18.  If that's to many crystals, the 
grouping around 9 to 12 megs in the evening brings the most international 
broadcast in.  The 6 meg ones are becoming largely shortwave evangelists, 
both living and dead, hi.  Hope that helps!!  Old time shortwave listeners on 
Drake gear have found a crystal frequency that gives like 5.7 or 5.8 to 500 kc 
up from that and solved having to have two crystals in the 6 meg range.  If I 
run across mine in a drawer, I'll let you know what they did.
73,
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[Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation

2011-07-23 Thread Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works
Recently completed installation of the Cumbria Designs X-Lock in my TR7. 
 I'm extremely happy with the final results.  Just thought I'd post a 
link to my webpage relating to a small twist I made relating to the 
tri-color status LED placement.


I hope you guys find it a good alternative to using the FIXED lamp on 
the TR7.


http://www.radiolabworks.com/labworks/tr7_xlock/tr7xlock.htm

BTW, has anyone installed the X-Lock in any of the 4-Line equipment?

73

Don N9OO

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Re: [Drakelist] modify subscription / email address

2011-07-21 Thread Don Cunningham
Alfred,
Look at the bottom of any Drakelist message and find the link for 
mailman.zerobeat.net and go there.  You must be on the computer and email 
address that you subscribed on.  At the very bottom of the page is the option 
to unsubscribe or edit options.  Go there and you can make changes to your 
account.  You MUST have your password (sent to you once a month, first of the 
month) to do all this.  Good luck!!
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] About to buy FS-4, but...

2011-07-18 Thread Don Cunningham
Think about it Neil, that subs in the Drake crystal formula for all 500 kc 
ranges of frequencies from 0.0 to 29.1 megs.  What more do you need??

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO, Round 1

2011-07-05 Thread Don Cunningham

Shh, Jim, don't tell the Feds or they will outlaw it  :-)
73,
Don

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Re: [Drakelist] Replacement of red dial readout numbers?

2011-06-25 Thread Don Buska - The Radio Lab Works

Hi Michael,

Check out Willi DF4NW http://www.df4nw.de/ replacement displays.  He 
has a picture of my multicolor display that he made for me.  Very 
reasonable and excellently made.


73

Don N9OO


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Re: [Drakelist] R4A headphone

2011-06-24 Thread Don Cunningham
I just HAVE to ask this one, Neil after looking at your posts.  Do you read 
schematics??  Since the headphones jack shuts off the speaker and both 
outputs are both tied to the same transformer and are effected by the volume 
control, it would certainly appear to be amplified.  If you don't have a 
schematic, you need one, Neil.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?

2011-06-20 Thread Don Cunningham
Well, I guess I better chime in with some verbage on this too.  I wanted to 
get my license about 1957, but couldn't find any of the crotchety old hams 
in the town I grew up that would help!!!  I didn't manage to get the theory 
and code training until the Navy decided I needed it, so I got my Novice 
ticket in 1972 with the help of my elmer, K6OAC.  Vince gave me a DX-35 and 
R-390 for my first rig.  I managed to fry the tranny in the DX-35, replaced 
that with a TV transformer and used it until I upgraded to a DX-40.  Had a 
few 40m crystals, and a LOT of 15m ones, so I mostly worked 15m.


I worked all states except Mississippi on the 15m Novice band, and got my 
Rag Chewer's Certificate there as well, hi.  That R-390 was EXCELLENT for 
weak signals, but imagine cruising the 15m novice band every time you 
called CQ with that monster!!  I bought a small Mosley 3 element beam, put 
that up about 35' on a homemade breakover mast, and with it came a Swan 350. 
I used the DX-40 and the receiver from the Swan for the last few months of 
my Novice career.  My wife has ALWAYS been supportive of my hobby, and as a 
reward for passing my General class license, she let me order the SB-401/303 
pair with the SB-600 and the EV-638 mic that Heathkit sold.  I got it 
together, and with only a couple of wiring errors, I used that set over 10 
years.  That's when I started buying Drake 4 line twins that had been 
CB'ed and usually tweaked with the golden screwdriver, and turned up for 
pennies at hamfests.  I got them going again, fixing bad or missing solder 
joints, re-aligning for the ham bands, and sold them to buy more, hi.


Since then I have had more rigs than I like to count, ending up with a shack 
full.  So like most of you here, I have Drake-itus.  I have a full TR7 
line except the L7, 2 B Lines, 2 C Lines, one L4B, 2B/2BQ and the S line and 
KWM2A Collins with 30L1, Heaths like I built (that need rebuilding one day) 
and the SB-104A line designed by our late friend on here Mr. Elliot.  So you 
see, with the modern gear I have, I am covered up and enjoying every 
minute of it.  Great hobby, and you meet the nicest folks on here and the 
bands.


My new thing is trying AM.  I am driving this weekend to purchase a nice 
Viking II for a trasmitter and have several good receivers to choose from 
for the AM station.  One is a 75A2 (needs refurbing) that belonged to Jack 
Guest, designer/owner of the Hornet antennas of our youth.  I knew him here 
in his hometown, Duncan, OK and wanted one of his rigs.

73 all,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Ten-Tec and Drake Compared

2011-06-19 Thread Don Cunningham
Mike,
That's really not a fair comparison, Drake having parts as opposed to Ten Tec.  
Drake went out of the ham business MANY years ago but carried parts until 
recent memory for many of their rigs  and serviced them far beyond what other 
US manufacturers of ham gear did.  On the other hand, Ten Tec advertises as 
still being in the ham business.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] Ten-Tec and Drake Compared

2011-06-18 Thread Don Cunningham
Well, I am one of the few I guess that was put off Ten Tec radios BY the 
so called fabulous Ten Tec service department.  That must have been an old, 
retired by now service dept.  I had nothing but grief with Paul Clinton, 
service manager, in specific and usually had to get sales to get any parts I 
needed.  His cure was ALWAYS send it in and he treated me like an idiot that 
didn't know how to turn a knob.  NEVER found that with Drake in all my years 
with them.  Bill Frost was a comsumate gentleman, even with my very dumb 
questions at times.  I had an Omni V, Omni 6+, Omni VII and Orion II and had 
the same poor service performance with all of them.  The first two were 
bought with problems known and did need service, the last two were new 
radios that I tried and I met the same problem when I wanted anything.  Now 
I feel better.  I couldn't let the great Ten Tec service myth continue 
with this present service manager.

73,
Don 



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Re: [Drakelist] Collins and Drake Compared

2011-06-15 Thread Don Cunningham

Paul said This may seem  like a trolling exercise to some,

And in light of most of your posts, yes, it does, hi.  I have several 
Drakes and several Collins rigs.  I love different things about each and 
plan to keep ALL as long as I can enjoy and maintain them.  I think you 
should have both, AND some Heathkits, some Swans   oops, maybe I'm going too 
far there, :^))

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drake

2011-06-11 Thread Don Cunningham
It would be a help if you would give us a name and call if you have one so we 
can get to know you a little.  Also, it would help if we knew which Drake gear 
in specific that interests you.  There is a WIDE range of Drakes, so it helps 
to narrow down some.  There is a WEALTH of knowledge on this reflector that is 
readily shared, but help us some with specifics.
73 and welcome to the group,
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake 2B

2011-06-05 Thread Don Cunningham
Man, you are quick, Dino.  I was typing the very same thing as I saw your 
message.  You just can't beat Garey's CD's for answering Drake questions!!!  
Also, Joe, for intermittents, I would suggest checking the bandswitch on the 
2B.  DeOxit on the contacts, or at the very least work the bandswitch several 
times to clean the grime off the contacts.  They play a big role in the 
workings of the set.  A drop in each tube socket hole is a good idea as well.
73 and good luck with your find,
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Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

2011-06-05 Thread Don Cunningham

www.sherweng.com and the link for R4C kits is on the home page.
73,
Don, WB5HAK

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[Drakelist] Duplicates

2011-06-05 Thread Don Cunningham
Bud, 
It must be your mail program or something.  I'm not getting duplicates.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] 2-C PS Cap replacement

2011-05-24 Thread Don Cunningham
I would HIGHLY recommend the Hayseed kits, and have done the under chassis 
trick in the past as well.  The kits are clean, and looks original.  I have had 
excellent luck with them, and you have revived the gear for another 30 to 50 
years in the process!  Tom's kits look and work as advertised, no problems here 
with SEVERAL kits and a good price to boot!
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] How much is an AC-4 power supply really worth? Somethoughts.

2011-05-15 Thread Don Cunningham
The worth of an AC-4 power supply is in the eye of the buyer.  The serial 
number of an AC4 is irrelevant anymore.  There is NO good, working AC4 at 
this stage unless it is rebuilt with one of Mike's boards (or possibly with 
Hayseed Hamfest's new caps).  All we are really buying at this stage is the 
transformer, case, bias pot and looks of the pieces.  ALL the caps are 
suspect and time bombs waiting to destroy unobtainium parts in the rigs. 
Sure, if we had to buy a transformer of this type, it would be VERY high 
indeed, but there are tens of thousands of these supplies somewhere.  If I'm 
wrong, I have a pile of gold over in the corner awaiting rebuilds, hi. 



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Re: [Drakelist] T4XC Problem

2011-04-18 Thread Don Cunningham
Terry,
Have you rebuilt the AC4??  Sounds like the infamous bias cap failure to me.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7A Shutting Down At High Power

2011-04-13 Thread Don Cunningham
Ed,
From my limited experience, that is indeed the problem, the PS-7 is current 
limiting due to a need to adjust it.  I think that instructions for adjustment 
are in the PS-7 manual.  One friend's rig had a bad pass transistor and 
exhibited this same symptom, however.  I would still try the adjustment first.
73,
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[Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Don Rasmussen
Hello All,
 
I have a pair of R4C's and an R4B that will get new electrolytics. They are 
stock at present. First job is removing the old cans. All I have is a Weller 
gun at present100/140 for the removal. I have a standard iron for installation. 
If anyone can suggest the best way to remove this solder from the chassis and 
twist tab - a specific tool or method, the rest of the job should be managable 
at first glance. 
 
Thanks in advance,
Don
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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Don Cunningham
Don,
I couldn't get my 100/140 gun to do much more than move the solder around a bit 
on the chassis.  I had the same trouble on my outside antenna wires, so I 
treated myself to a new 200/260 Weller, and it WILL do the job, hi.  Others 
recommend the huge irons, but I went the bigger gun route as I didn't think the 
huge iron would easily handle the antenna wiring.  It sure makes a lot better 
connections on my wire antennas, and gets PL-259's hot enough quickly to solder 
the shields.  The only advice I might offer using the smaller Weller might be 
to break the old can off the tabs, making a little less heat sink???  I'm not 
sure how that would work, but might be worth a try.  Good luck!!
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] Hayseed Caps

2011-03-27 Thread Don Cunningham
I'll try my Weller WTCPN station on more after that remark, Dino!!  However, I 
did try it on those can tabs in desperation, and even with an 800 degree tip, 
NADA, hi.  Just too much good, copper heat sink.
73,
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[Drakelist] RV-4C

2011-03-25 Thread Don Miller

Hi all,
I recently acquired an RV-4C to go with my TR-4C.  The problem I am 
experiencing is when the RV-4C is in the RCV mode, I can still hear the station 
in another part of the band the TR-4C is tuned to.  In other words when I 
switch the RV-4C on the TR-4C is not completely blocked out.  I do have a good 
ground strap connected between the two units.  Any ideas?
Thanks,
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7 refurb

2011-03-23 Thread Don Cunningham
Randy,
I hope someone will chime in on the paint, but Mike March, K4QU,makes the 
plastic end caps FAR cheaper than I have seen them on Ebay.  He has three 
sizes, as I remember, to cover the TR7, accessories and the L7 amps.  Email him 
at mikek...@gmail.com .  No connection other than a VERY satisfied customer.  
Google March Magnetic Paddles and see some of his handywork!!
73,
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[Drakelist] WTB: Clean - Mint C-Line

2011-03-22 Thread Don Rasmussen
I have been keeping a mint original stock C Line stored away in reserve for 
some years now, can anyone say what it would fetch these days?


[Drakelist] WTB: Clean - Mint C-Line
Rich Hallman - N7TR
Fri, 18 Mar 2011 22:58:13 -0700

Looking for a clean / mint C-Line

r...@n7tr.com

 

Rich N7TR

ex KI3V, N3AMK, WB3JOV

www.n7tr.com http://www.n7tr.com 

Telnet: dxc.n7tr.com N7TR DXCluster



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[Drakelist] Simple R4B troubleshoot

2011-03-17 Thread Don Rasmussen
Hey guys,
 
The fuse blew out on my R4B today. There are 2 filter caps that I am inclined 
to check, one is mounted underneath the power transformer, the other is the 
larger silver can mounted above the chassis. Can these be tested with a simple 
VOM? What readings to look for - shorted? Also wondering what else to 
test before tossing another fuse in line. 
 
The wiring attached to the NOTCH pot also seems to be disintegrating all by 
itself - interesting. 
 
Thanks,
Don Rasmussen
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Re: [Drakelist] CONVERSION OF T-4s RAISES QUESTION

2011-03-16 Thread Don Cunningham
I must have been on the tail end of the novice VFO ban.  I was licensed in 
the early summer (May, I think) of 1972, and STILL had that requirement. 
I'm not sure when it was actually lifted.  Fun times, sending CQ on 15m and 
hunting the entire novice segment for a reply, HI.  I only had a handful of 
crystals, and 99% were only good on 15m.  Still my favorite band to this day 
though, and starting to open some.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 33, Issue 12

2011-03-09 Thread Don Cunningham
Grant,
It's a matter of personal preference, and you'll get as many yeas as nays.  I 
subscribe to the old school, If it ain't broke, don't fix it!.  I suspect 
some of this comes from VHF/UHF usage of coaxes, and they DO make a tremendous 
difference there, but under 30 megs, loss is minimal in good quality coax.  
When we could get Belden Coax at a decent price, most thought RG-213 was better 
than regular RG-8, but likely there was little different.  You will have some 
more loss with RG-8X, but with low power, you shouldn't notice enough 
difference to warrant a change.  Only my opinion, no more factual than any 
else, hi.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] New (to me) B Line...

2011-03-09 Thread Don Cunningham

Bill,
Welcome to the Drakelist!!  Sounds like you have the Drake 4 Line fever, for 
sure.  You will find a lot of knowledge both here and on the Yahoo list as 
well.


I have the dial plate you are looking for, but I have put out at least once 
a hope that someone would take this NOS one I have and start making 
replacements that we can buy!!  If no response on that, give me an idea what 
it's worth (or an interesting trade) and I'll get it to you.  I bought a box 
full of spares a while back just to help out when someone needs 
replacement parts.  I would still rather have someone take on making them, 
and this mint one would be great as a pattern.

73,
Don, WB4HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB / Heathkit SB-200 connection cable needed.

2011-03-06 Thread Don Cunningham
Joe,
Since I don't see a dozen replies to your problem, let me take a stab at it.  
You hook from your AC4 power supply (the 2 pin funny looking jack) to the RCA 
on your SB-200 to key it.  ALC on the AC4 is already an RCA.  I would change 
the 2 pin jack to an RCA myself as the 2 pin plug, if you can find it will cost 
you more than John Kriner's kit for sale in his Ebay store (John is tr7dude) 
for about $15.  You can fabricate your own plate if you are a handy man to put 
the RCA in the hold the 2 pin plug vacated.  Then you can keep the original 
plug for the anal buyer later that has to have it all original.  The thing to 
watch is to be sure you put the hot wire on the 2 pin plug to the center of 
the RCA.  The other side of the 2 pin will go to ground, which is taken care of 
by the RCA ground side.  Worst case if you get that backwards is your SB-200 
will be keyed until you unplug it.  Don't ask HOW I know that, HI.
Hope that helps,
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB / Heathkit SB-200 connection cable needed.

2011-03-06 Thread Don Cunningham
Poor proofreading.  Fourth line down, hold should read hole.  Darned 63 year 
old fingers, hi.
73,
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[Drakelist] TR-4C Microphone

2011-02-28 Thread Don Miller

Hi group,
 My crysral element went bad in my old D-104.  What would you recommend to 
replace it and have good transmit audio with my TR-4C.
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...

2011-02-28 Thread Don Jones
Two tips, First hit the switch with Deoxite. Second double check the cables
you are using. I believe the INJ, CARRIER, and one other cable need to be a
special low loss double shielded cable. Some of the resident experts will
chime in I hope and correct any miss-information I might be spreading.

Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2011 21:48:01 -0800
From: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XC Output Power Varies...
Message-ID: 689C305DD4144A1F8096AFDD0907740A@JDESK
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

My T-4XC has different Pout depending on the position of the transceive
switch and in the CW Mode.

With transceive swith set on separate 
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 300 ma
Pout is 100 watts

With transceive switch set on rcvr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watt

When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 2:30
Plate current is 140 ma
Pout is 19 watts

When transceive switch is on xmtr
Gain is at 5:00 (fully clockwise)
Palte current is 320 ma
Pout is 117 watts

What is pecular is that Pout when seperate compared to Pout when xmtr
supposedly uses the same oscillator signal for drive.

I did not see anything in the manual that looks like there is an alignment
step for this.

Comments?

Thanks

Jim




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Re: [Drakelist] Dishwasher trick

2011-02-28 Thread Don Jones
Re: the stuff won't even clean my tea cup, let alone a radio chassis.
73 Bud W0HG

Bud wins! Good one! Still laughing!

You-all have read my sea story about the old Gunny and his garden hose and
that Collins gear. While it is a true story, I still have some concerns. 
You won't see me posting a you tube video of me and my garden hose and my
prized Sherwood R-4C out in the backyard this spring giving a bath.
#1 the VFO grease that is used in our beloved radios. The hot rinse cycle
would not do your vfo's any favors.
#2 the high humidity (100%) would put power transformers at risk.
I am still a chicken, about as far as I would go is to use my electric
toothbrush with a suitable cleaning compound and a little water on the brush
to scrub up the upper deck of a radio. The underside of a the drake rigs is
too busy with point to point wiring for scrubbing with a tooth brush. 
Time to be real and get honest with ourselves. If you want pristine
collector grade appearance hire a professional and ante up.
 
Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA 


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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4R kit

2011-02-25 Thread Don Cunningham
Mike,
I too found your instructions to be adequate for me, an old retired school 
administrator, to rebuild one AC4 very easily.  I plan to incorporate the same 
kit in all my AC4's as I can afford it.  I found it to be a high quality board, 
good components, and with adequate pre-planning (pictures, tracing wiring to be 
sure it matched your colors and noting differences on the instructions) I had 
NO glitches at all.

I do some blueprint checking and technical writing for a local oilfield 
manufacturer and find that engineers (and designers) are sometimes too close to 
the project to see all the ways that something can be communicated.  That's why 
they keep calling me back, to sort out what needs to be included (after 
customer feedback) in future issuances of materials.  I simply make 
suggestions, as I am NOT the designer of the gear, but we find a middle ground 
that the customer can understand (often in other parts of the world, not the 
U.S.).

Guys, we have far too few vendors willing to supply us with our needs to keep 
the old rigs running.  Mike at  the Heathkit Shop, Tom at Hayseed Hamfest, Jeff 
at Harbach and many others have ALWAYS been courteous and helpful to me.  I DO 
try to warn new hams of the hazards that are faced in the old gear with higher 
voltages to consider.  I usually do it off list, as I have lost very good 
friends to stupid accidents that could have been prevented.  Many new hams have 
NOT had our experiences since childhood with this stuff.

Thanks again Mike, Tom, Jeff and others for making quality upgrades available 
for our old gear.  
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] AC-4

2011-02-24 Thread Don Cunningham
Jude,
I too endorse highly the AC4R kit from Heathkit Shop, but would caution you as 
he will in the literature with the kit to be SURE that you are comfortable with 
working with the high voltage found in the kit.  If so, it's the best!!!
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] [Drake list] Roofing filter

2011-02-21 Thread Don Jones
DITTO!! I could not agree more with this piece of advice. With a tight front
end and IF strip I have found the need for a noise blanker to be nil when
using the 600Hz roofing filter's and the 500 or 250 Hz drake cw filters. For
SSB BW's the need for a noise blanker is nice at times and I do open my
receiver up to the stock BW's in order to get the 4NB to work.

One not for the good of the order - the Sherwood R-4C did outperform my
OMNI 6 (with a full load of filters and the INRAD roofing filter mod) in the
pile ups during the recent VP8ORK DX-pedition. We are talking 559 (R-4C)
verses 229 (OMNI 6). No comparison.

Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA 


Date: Sun, 20 Feb 2011 22:22:50 -0500 (EST)
From: kc9...@aol.com
To: k4...@mindspring.com, Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter
Message-ID: 8cd9f8dc0ddfc69-760-4d...@webmail-d112.sysops.aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

The ideal situation IMHO is the Full Sherwood MOD for the R-4C.
It has a switch so I can keep it wide if I want (and use NB), or use SSB or
CW Roofing filters to keep unwanted adjacent signals from de-sensing the RX.
It works super!
Almost as well as my Ten-Tec Orion II

73,
Lee, KC9CDT



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Re: [Drakelist] Slug Tuning Club

2011-02-21 Thread Don Cunningham
That video is now on DVD, so much handier, and is done by Hi-Res.  Also 
available from Electric Radio's store and is the same price.  They do a LOT 
of Collins and receiver videos.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 32, Issue 22

2011-02-06 Thread Don Jones
My set of Drake Twins were a R-4A  a T-4X, worked my first 230 countries
using them between 1977  1981. That was when and where I was first exposed
to the beauty of passband tuning in fighting qrm. 

Don Jones 
Arlington, WA 

Date: Sun, 6 Feb 2011 11:17:55 -0500
From: Lee Hiers lee.hi...@gmail.com
To: Diane and Edward Swynar deswy...@xplornet.ca
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] DSP Filters
Message-ID:
aanlktiku9eltzssmf0c7eojb4heaqjroxwwr-jfra...@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

On Sun, Feb 6, 2011 at 11:07 AM, Diane and Edward Swynar 
deswy...@xplornet.ca wrote:


 Is your R-4 the ...just-plain-ol'-original-R-4 version, with no A,
B,
 or C suffix...?


Yes Eddy, it's an R-4, no suffixactually the first one I've ever
listened to...I had used a lot of C-lines in the past, but never an R-4 or
R-4A...not sure about B-lines.  But the sound of this old rx on cw is very
nice indeed.

 73 de Lee
--
Lee Hiers, AA4GA


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Re: [Drakelist] R-4 serials

2011-02-06 Thread Don Cunningham
Speaking of Donnie, does ANYONE know what happened to him in relation to 
Drakes and Drake parts??  I really miss his participation in the reflector, 
and he was just starting to build a nice group of accessories that are 
needed.  I do see him posting occasionally on QTH.com and other places, but 
nothing Drake related.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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[Drakelist] My Drake/Sherwood R-4C Rules my shack!

2011-02-05 Thread Don Jones
Like some of you here, I have been working very hard to get into the log of
the DX-pedition to the South Orkney Islands. My favorite band/mode has
always been 40M CW. Last night I finally got my contact with them.
Considering I am only running 600W to a 20M double zepp from W. WA it has
been a bit of a chore.
My fully loaded Sherwood R-4C smoked my Ten Tec OMNI 6+ (which has a full
load to TT filters and the INRAD CW roofing filter mod) last night. On the
Drake VP8ORK was only a 529 using GUF 600Hz roofing filter and the DRAKE OEM
250Hz cw filter with no ringing filters or white noise. One the OMNI VI+
VP8ORK was only 229 due to the receiver white noise and the howling DSP
noise. It is absolutely amazing to hear the difference of the two receivers.
I do prefer the digital control that the 6 offers, but if you can't hear
'em you ain't going to work 'em. A trip down to Fry's electronics for a 4PDT
12V relay, a 3 pos double pole rotary wafer switch, a bud box and 6 RCA jack
and 3 1/8 headphone jacks is on the agenda next so I have TR switching for
the R-4C, then it is good to go for the TJ8 DX-pedition coming up next.
God I Love that Sherwood R-4C.
Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA 


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Re: [Drakelist] DSP Filters

2011-02-05 Thread Don Cunningham
Hunter,
When you say that, is your usage mostly CW/Digital or SSB??  I am just curious, 
as most of the time I hear this, they really mean on CW.  If that's not the 
case, I'm interested in trying that as I LOVE the mellow sound of my R4(X)'s 
but they sometimes need just a little more help, if you know what I mean.
Tks,
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Re: [Drakelist] Adding DSP to a R-4C

2011-02-05 Thread Don Jones
Thanks guys for the suggestions, duly noted ham fest season is just around
the corner. 
My receiver does have the Sherwood audio amp mode in it and it is really
surprising how clean the audio is. 
To be honest I might try the Timewave on my OMNI 6.

Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA 

Date: Sat, 05 Feb 2011 10:20:27 -0800
From: Jim Bo jbol...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: My Drake/Sherwood R-4C Rules my shack! (Don Jones)

IMHO, the only thing that is better than what Don describes is the R-4C as
he describes BUT...use a Timewave 599ZX with a pair of noise canceling
earphones (the Bose are expensive, but quite comfortable). The Timewave has
a superior audio amp and I set up the filter as a bandpass with the low end
at ~300 Hz and the high end at 1,500 Hz. This helps with the low end
rumble and the high end atmosphere noise and makes the radio even more
enjoyable. I rarely use the other features of the DSP filter, but on
occasion, the Random function does help.  Only on few occasions do I use
the CW function of the DSP.  It does help also, but for the most part, the
R-4C audio into the DSP filter is clean.  I have recently aligned my R-4C
and used the headphone jack with out the Timewave and again realized what a
huge difference it makes.  The DSP filter is not low cost, but I got it 10
years ago and it is still a viable solution.  I am sure that there are lower
cost filters out there, but can not attest to the audio amps on them.  One
of the cost drivers of the 599ZX is the ability to go to 5 kHz as the upper
cut off frequency.  This compares to others that have a cut off at 3 kHz or
so.  For amateur radio, the 3 kHz is fine, but I also use the 599ZX with my
Drake R-8B for BCBDX and Beacons.

Jim
WA9ZBV
Orange, CA


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[Drakelist] R-4C Noise Blankers, Dynamic Range roofing filter mod's

2011-02-02 Thread Don Jones
I agree, when using the 8kHz Drake Roofing filter the 4NB noise blanker will
clean-up some interfering noise sources. But only some of the time.  I (and
many others who have e-mail me privately) have found that you get better
noise reduction by reducing the IF BW's. This would include going to a 600Hz
roofing filter making the 4NB ineffective - but more importantly - NOT
NEEDED.

I look at a hot-rod Sherwood R-4C receiver as a utilitarian tool used to
dig deep down into the noise floor and root out S Unit 0 weak signal DX
stations buried in the midst of QRM. 

I did not completely buy into the wild claims of the users of these
Sherwood R-4C's until I actually used one. All I can say is, Holy Cow! I
am now a convert of the writings W8JI regarding the R-4C in its
un-modified state. This Holy Cow is based upon side by side comparisons to
a stock Drake R-4C to a Sherwood R-4C. Basically all you get is the receiver
performance from a FT101B/E, the only advantage R-4C has is the passband (IF
Shift) tuning.

Conversely if one is rag chewing on SSB with 3kHz wide Hi-Fi SSB (or worse
yet AM), they generally are not concerned about digging out weak CW signals
that are S-0 on the S meter. These users typically are happy campers with a
75M 20+dB over S-9 QSO while running 1.5kW (or more) for a in-state rag
chew. They remain happy campers until someone moves in 2kHz away and is
running similar power. But at least their 4NB noise blanker's work...

BTW, the measured 2kHz Spacing Dynamic Range of a TR-4C is 68dB which is
10dB better than the stock R-4C. Plus the 180W output of the TR-4C will
drive a GG 4-1000A amplifier with 3500Vdc B+ to 2,300W-rms out on 75M SSB. 

73 es Gud DX, 
Don Jones KO7i
Arlington, WA 



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Re: [Drakelist] Wanted 4NB Noise Blanker

2011-02-01 Thread Don Jones

OK - I am going to stir the pot some.
I have one of those 4NB noise blanker's installed in my R-4C. To be honest
that noise blanker is largely ineffective and over rated. I have seen them
sell for over $200 on e-bay. I scratch my head and wonder why? In My Humble
Opinion they are a over rated vessel of fertilizer and none may abide by the
odor there of.
Would I sell my 4NB noise blanker? NO. As you might recall I have one of
those Sherwood / Drake R-4C's (late production SN), the service receipt for
it from Sherwood totals more than $900. 
Bottom line, be prepared to be disappointed if you pay high dollar for a 4NB
noise blanker and it does little or nothing. Experiencing what I have with
my R-4C and 4NB, I would never throw away money on buying one for my TR-4C.
Be careful what you wish for.

Don Jones KO7i

ps - my heavily modified R-4C has been outperforming my Ten Tec OMNI VI in
every way. The OMNI VI has a full load of filters. Plus the INRAD roofing
filter mod. I have trying to get the VP8O logged and I have had to resort to
using the R-4C to copy his very weak signal here in Western WA.

Message: 1
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 10:21:01 -0800
From: Kevin Nathan k...@comcast.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Wanting to Buy
Message-ID: mailman.599.1296569921.2744.drakel...@zerobeat.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi All,
 
I went to a vintage radio even over the weekend and was able to sell some
heavy metal and come back with much lighter cash.  GRIN  Now, I would like
to find the noise blanker for my R4C.  Does anyone on the list have one and
what would you need for it?
 
Thanks much and very 73.
 
 
Kevin :)
Amateur Radio:  K7RX

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Re: [Drakelist] Wanted 4NB Noise Blanker

2011-02-01 Thread Don Jones
KO7I RESPONSE - The CW roofing filter is particularly bad... but the 4NB is
good...

SAY WHAT? I could not disagree with you more. 

A unmodified R-4C has a Narrow Spaced Dynamic Range of 58dB while the
Sherwood modified R-4C has a dynamic range of 84dB. So in affect what you
have just said is that having a noise blanker that works is more important
than having your receiver blown away by adjacent QRM. I'll take the roofing
filter thank you. :-)

FWIW, the mod's to my Sherwood R-4C do allow you to use the standard 6kHz
front end filter. The 4NB noise blanker has only been marginally successful,
at best, even when I revert to the standard filters. 

Don Jones KO7i

Message: 1
Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2011 16:26:07 -0500
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Wanted 4NB Noise Blanker
Message-ID: 4d487a6f.1050...@mindspring.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Don -

You answered your own question/statement. I believe the words 'heavily
modified' were tossed around! :-)

The Sherwood mods essentially render the 4NB useless, as you have
discovered. The CW roofing filter is particularly bad, as it narrows the
noise bandwidth seen by the NB, and delays pulses through it so they no
longer match up with the blanking pulses.

The NB is very effective as some have stated, when used with the original
receiver topology. Like so much in the world of RF and electronics in
general, a receiver is a 'system'. The original design was optimized (within
cost constraints) as a whole. Anything that alters that design takes the
risk that it 'may' alter that basic, optimized design, 'possibly' improving
one characteristic. Unfortunately the characteristic it improves almost
always causes another characteristic to decline, perhaps obviously,
otherwise not so much.

The basic Drake NB is the same design from the R-4A through the R-7, and
most find them VERY effective on high level, short duty cycle impulse noise.
As soon as the noise pulses are 'stretched', either by source
characteristics or group delay through filters, the effectiveness drops off
quickly.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



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[Drakelist] Drake TR-3

2011-01-23 Thread Don Miller

Hi All,
My TR-3 does not indicate sufficient S Meter reading.  I have been through the 
allignment  procedure and changed out V 11 with no improvement.  The S meter 
seems to read 10 to 15 db below what it should.  Any Ideas?
Thanks,
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Re: [Drakelist] Question regarding TR4

2011-01-20 Thread Don Cunningham
Kevin,
You will likely find that the schematic you have in your manual probably 
doesn't match the rig you have.  Also, the manuals changed slowly, if at all, 
during the life, only the schematics changed.  Garey will have all the 
schematics in the CD.  One question though, why would you want to re-tube a 
whole transceiver??  More than likely most of those in the rig are good tubes, 
and it seems a waste to change them, plus, who can tell that your new ones 
are any better than the originals???  They have to be NOS or old unless they 
are Russian or Chinese.  Also, the rig was aligned with those tubes and will 
require a COMPLETE alignment after re-tubing.  I just think it is easier to use 
your new tubes as test replacements to see if they fix a particular problem.  
My .02 worth, probably not worth that much.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] Upgrade/Maintenance On All Email Accounts.

2011-01-20 Thread Don Cunningham
Yeah, change the headers when you send them to Garey and maybe the spam 
filters won't catch them, HI HI.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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Re: [Drakelist] Upgrade/Maintenance On All Email Accounts.

2011-01-19 Thread Don Cunningham
I got a WHOLE string of them.  I guess Drakelist has gotten hit.  Has to happen 
occasionally, I guess.
73,
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Re: [Drakelist] Kroil - it's good stuff... but for a radio?

2011-01-16 Thread Don Jones
OK this is a new one for me guys, I can personally attest to its
effectiveness in cleaning firearms - but radios? This is a new for me. The
stuff can be purchased at multiple high end gun shops you won't find it at
Walmart.
73,
Don Jones 
Arlington, WA 


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Re: [Drakelist] R-4B 80 meters not working all the time

2011-01-12 Thread Don Cunningham
I thought I saw an email recently saying that Peterson Crystal, the original 
makers of the Drake crystals was still in business.  I don't have contact 
info.  Then, there is always our good old International Crystal right close 
to me in Oklahoma City!!!  Finest crystals I know of (maybe a little pricey, 
but GOOD).

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



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[Drakelist] Test of New Computer Install

2011-01-12 Thread Don Cunningham

Hope it worked this time!!  Getting old and forgetful stinks!
73,
Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Drakelist] Six Meter Options

2010-12-31 Thread Don Cunningham
Kevin,
Drake made the TR-6.  They are a bit hard to find, therefore very expensive.  
They do, however, seem to work quite well and are good receivers.  Heathkit 
made one, but the number is escaping, but it's like an SB-110.  That also seems 
to be a good rig.  Both will be old in the tooth and need some TLC.
73,
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