[Drakelist] WTB: Sherwood RF Gain Knob

2015-04-25 Thread Ed G
Hi Folks,
 Looking for one of the old Sherwood kits - the one that gives you the
concentric RF gain knob for the R-4C. Thanks for any info.
--Ed, N3CW--




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[Drakelist] Full Compass Belden 8421 price NOW

2013-04-20 Thread Ed Tanton
Apparently, once they got it in stock, the price has leaped astronomically:
now it's $1.20/ft. dropping to $1.17/ft @ 50ft, and $1.08/ft at 100ft. NOW I
wish I had ordered the 100ft I STARTED to order when it was 30cents/ft or
less.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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[Drakelist] Belden 8421 Low Capacitance Cable (for INJ and PRE-MIXER cables)-RCVD!

2013-04-19 Thread Ed Tanton
 Byron and I both placed 50ft orders for Beldon 8421 on APR 6th from
www.fullcompass.com . They gave a notice that they would ship it when they
got it. The Invoice Date says 17 APR, so it looks like they didn't apply the
charge card 'til they got it. Excellent-and Byron I really appreciate your
telling us about this one out!!!

 

P.S. I use MS OneNote to accumulate (and forward) emails and other Notes of
interest. One click makes or sends an email-though this message might not
make it since it has the Note content shown below.

 

 

Ed Tanton  N4XY  n...@comcast.net 

189 Pioneer Trail

Marietta, GA  30068-3466

U.S.A.

 

website: http://www.n4xy.com http://www.n4xy.com/   

 

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 [Drakelist] Belden 8421 Low Capacitance Cable (for INJ and PRE-MIXER
cables)

06 April, 2013

5:25 PM


Subject

[Drakelist] Belden 8421 Low Capacitance Cable (for INJ andPRE-MIXER
cables)


From

 mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net


To

drakelist@zerobeat.net


Sent

06 April, 2013 8:52 AM


Attachments

Untitled attachment 02558.txt

 

Hello-

  I wanted to pass along to the list a place to buy the above mentioned
cable. It is advertised for 30 cents per foot at a place called
www.fullcompass.com ; I ordered some so I hope it is the real thing and all
works out well. I shopped around some but could not find it anywhere near
this price. The price drops as you buy more. So, I have my fingers crossed.

 Byron WA5THJ

 

Created with Microsoft OneNote 2010

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[Drakelist] [Johnson] OT: Storm Comm

2012-10-28 Thread Ed Tanton
My niece Tracy lives in NYC: on (W. 147th btw Amsterdam and Broadway) and
just emailed me asking if I knew of any hams nearby in case all comm is out
due to the storm-so she could let us know she is OK, etc. With the recent
problems on one of these lists, I hesitated, but figured perhaps it would be
permissible. Anyone reading this who is anywhere near her who could help
with this-again: if all other communications are kaput-please let me know. I
can give you my info for a relay/etc.

 

Thanks for your forbearance.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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[Drakelist] OT: Storm Comm

2012-10-27 Thread Ed Tanton
My niece Tracy lives in NYC: on (W. 147th btw Amsterdam and Broadway) and
just emailed me asking if I knew of any hams nearby in case all comm is out
due to the storm-so she could let us know she is OK, etc. With the recent
problems on one of these lists, I hesitated, but figured perhaps it would be
permissible. Anyone reading this who is anywhere near her who could help
with this-again: if all other communications are kaput-please let me know. I
can give you my info for a relay/etc.

 

Thanks for your forbearance.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap' ???

2012-08-23 Thread Ed Tanton
Is it possible power supply was set for 110V not 220V? I do not believe it's
the TR4-although of course it could be. If it was, I should think you would
have lost a diode(s) or Heaven-forbid: the transformer. It could have been a
faulty diode that caused it-hence, after making sure about the input voltage
selector (and if it's correct, I'd check its wiring) I'd check all the
diodes.

 

Finally, it's always possible it was just the capacitor's time having come.
If you've made sure about the voltage setting, then replace the cap, do the
same start-up routine, and then the SAME cap goes, then yeah, it's obviously
not the caps, but something else going on. 

 

Before you walk-away for the run-time test, I'd check all the voltages just
to be sure they're right. That way, if it does go again (or some other cap)
you'll know at least it LOOKED right prior to catastrophe.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Damien Mannix
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2012 12:24 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Exploding cap' ???

 

Hi all,
 
Bought an immaculate looking TR4 which has been out of use a long time.
Also bought an AC4 which claims to have had the original EHT caps and diodes
replaced.
 
Powered them up with 20 vac for four hours, then up in 20 v steps at four
hours per step, listening and sniffing for any problems.  Reached 220 vac an
hour ago.  AC4 slightly warm and centre of TR4 top a bit warmer.  Then there
was one hell of a crack!  Sounded like a gunshot and frightened me to death!
Swiched off immediately of course.  No smell that I can detect.
 
Is that what an exploding capacitor sounds like?  Any advice on where to
start looking?  The TR4 or the AC4?
 
Sad day for me.  Trying to return to the hobby after over 30 years.  Been
too busy making a living and bringing up a family.
 
Regards,
 
Damien
G3XER

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Re: [Drakelist] Exploding cap' ???

2012-08-23 Thread Ed Tanton
I forgot to mention I was present when one within my Drake L7 went. Filled
the basement with little tiny things that looked a lot like tiny black
butterflies fluttering to the floor. I don't remember if diodes went or not.
But it did repair easily enough.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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///snip


I had this happen to an R-4B probably 25 years ago. A medium sized lytic
went off like a bomb. Many tiny fragments to extract from under the chassis
but upon replacing the cap, all was fine. Very startling.

-- 
Charles Ring W3NU

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Re: [Drakelist] stoopid question on transformer wiring

2012-01-31 Thread Ed Tanton
The only time which-lead might matter would be usage of a transformer
winding to either buck or boost voltage for another transformer or another
winding. Then, phase enters into things. Otherwise, nope.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Larry Sack
Sent: Tuesday, January 31, 2012 1:13 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] stoopid question on transformer wiring

 

OK, I've rebuilt my AC-3 and I've studied the schematics and read past posts
but still have a basic question. Are each pair of transformer leads are
interchangeable? Meaning does it matter which red lead goes where? Or blue,
yellow, black? I understand it's AC in and out of the transformer and the
schematic shows each pair going through a half-wave rectifier chopping into
DC and the ripple being smoothed by the caps. But, will I be inverting the
voltage by getting the wrong lead much like the bias's blue leads? The green
leads must be supplying AC directly to the radio. How can I tell which is
which if there's no reference voltage?

 

I'm all done with the AC-3 rebuild with Mike Bryce's AC-4R unit. Much thanks
to N2FFL for posting his info on using the AC-4R kit on the AC-3. Now on to
renewing some components on my TR-4.

 

Larry, N8QNM

 

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[Drakelist] For Sale: Drake 1-A

2011-12-12 Thread Ed G
Selling my 1-A...it's in excellent shape; with the usual chassis dulling and
marks.  Write for details and photos if interested.  $550.
--Ed--




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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

2011-12-02 Thread Ed Tanton
...and I wouldn't be a bit surprised if the key reason for the transformers 
being OK, related to the distilled water!!! Surely that says something about 
other, non-hermetic components as well. 

Ed Tanton
 
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-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net] On 
Behalf Of John Hudson
Sent: Thursday, December 01, 2011 3:15 PM
To: anc...@ec.rr.com; w1es1...@earthlink.net
Cc: captc...@flash.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

As we all know this has been a hot topic many times on the list. One of my good 
friends worked at HP Fullerton cleaning, repairing, and aligning test 
equipment. The process was, as described prior, blowing out dust, removing 
whose items that water would damage, using a solution of simple green under 
pressure washer, scrubbing with brush as needed,  then rinsing with distilled 
water, air hose, and baking at heat under 200 degrees for a week.  He said 
transformers were not a problem for this process.

It would be awesome to find photo's or documentation of this process and placed 
in our document files.

///snip


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Re: [Drakelist] Baked Drakes

2011-12-01 Thread Ed Tanton
Way back in the early 70s when I worked at Tektronix, we would wash 545s and
the like in a pressure washer booth-if they were REALLY bad. You had to be
really careful where/what you sprayed, else you'd lose thinks like the power
transformer. We then used an airhose to blow the water out as best you
could, same admonitions about the transformer(s). Finally there was a 48hr
bake. I don't remember the temp. Generally, no matter how careful you were,
the power transformer failure rate was probably 30-50%.

Ed Tanton
 
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-Original Message-
From: Steve Wedge [mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 10:05 PM
To: n...@comcast.net
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: Baked Drakes

Never leave the PTO, meter or any other plastics like that on the rig when
baking.

I always remove the PTO, meter, front panel and, of course all knobs and
tubes.  It's basically a stripped chassis when it gets its wash and dry. 
Never submerge - only wash with brushes and detergent, rinse thoroughly with
the sink sprayer above and below, then pour distilled water over it.

I take the rigs out to the shed before the oven for an encounter with an air
gun.  That will remove most of the water.

Yes, you have to re-oil everything when you're done and on the A and B
receivers I also recommend removing the PBT coil carriage after cleaning to
clean the dried-out grease from the assembly.

The equipment looks and smells much better and runs cooler.  After 40 - 50
years, even a clean-looking chassis is hiding a lot of dirt.

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!
- Original Message -
From: Ed Tanton n...@comcast.net
To: 'Steve Wedge' w1es1...@earthlink.net; Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, November 30, 2011 9:46 PM
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] T-4X: put on your thinking caps!


Oven temp that won't harm plastic? I am going to need the same thing for
several projects. I had simply planned to use Warm for 24 hours, but would
love to hear your (or anyone else's) version Steve!!! Thanks.

Ed Tanton

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///snip

Ah, well, the T-4X is over in the corner for now and will require all my
tools to troubleshoot.  I started on the first of the two R-4B's tonight,
have dismantled and washed it and it's now in the oven drying.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

///snip



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Re: [Drakelist] T-4X: put on your thinking caps!

2011-11-30 Thread Ed Tanton
Oven temp that won't harm plastic? I am going to need the same thing for
several projects. I had simply planned to use Warm for 24 hours, but would
love to hear your (or anyone else's) version Steve!!! Thanks.

Ed Tanton
 
website: http://www.n4xy.com  
 
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///snip

Ah, well, the T-4X is over in the corner for now and will require all my
tools to troubleshoot.  I started on the first of the two R-4B's tonight,
have dismantled and washed it and it's now in the oven drying.

73,

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

///snip


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4c Receiver for sale

2011-11-21 Thread Ed Tanton
Great looking unit Chris, and surely that's a fine price, especially with
the Sherwood mods and ALL those extra band/xtals! I'm not buying anything
these days with retirement coming at the end of this year, but otherwise I'd
be talking to you!

Ed Tanton
 
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-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Christopher Kovacs
Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 9:02 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Drake R-4c Receiver for sale

I thought I would let the group in on this sale before I place the receiver
on ebay.  I am looking for a good home for the Receiver.  I may be selling
the T-4xc, power supply and speaker. Let me know if you want a package deal.

For more information:

http://www.w0anm.com/dokuwiki/doku.php?id=drake_r4-c_receiver_for_sale 

Thanks,

Chris

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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR-7 CD

2011-11-17 Thread Ed Tanton
It probably wouldn't be that hard to include the R-7, since so much of the
circuitry is similar. I'd buy it just for that R-7 portion.

Ed Tanton
 
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-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Thursday, November 17, 2011 2:35 PM
To: drakelist
Subject: [Drakelist] Drake TR-7 CD


OK, I'm weakening..  I keep getting requests for a CD for the TR-7.  I'm
really not sure why, since the Drake Service manual is more than adequate
for servicing these radios.

There were 'lots' of requests for a CD for the R-4A / T-4X pair a few years
ago, and against my better judgement I developed TWO CDs, one for each of
the drastically different models of the R-4A.  
Approximately 20 copies have sold of both combined.  So you can see why I'm
a little gun-shy!   :-)

So.  Being a little smarter (not much, I'm typing this...,) I'm asking for
input on what YOU think should be included in a CD for the TR-7.  The Drake
manual already has complete parts lists, and photos of the boards with parts
keyed to the list.  Since I see this as the central value of MY CDs, I'm
coming up short for something to differentiate MY CD from Drake's manual.

Of course the other question would be what price range would you expect this
CD to be in?  The Drake Service Manual sells for about $50 these days, and
there is an aftermarket CD version for about $10 and a print version for
about $20.  Consider that making a CD similar to the 4- Line CDs would
require pretty much complete destruc er, dis-assembly of a TR-7.

Thoughts??   Direct to k4...@mindspring.com please

--
73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


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Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question

2011-10-25 Thread Ed Tanton
I second Don's comments, in both cases.

 

Ed Tanton  N4XY
 
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From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Don Cunningham
Sent: Tuesday, October 25, 2011 1:40 PM
To: Pete Juliano; Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] T4XB Question

 

Pete,

Your question has already been answered before I got home, BUT I will say
two things that the others didn't.  Tom, at Hayseed Hamfest, AND his family
go out of their way to be sure that you get exactly what you need, at a
reasonable price and do it all in a friendly manner and QUICKLY!!  I have
bought MANY kits from Tom, and always get the same, fast, friendly service.
I highly recommend him and have NO ties other than I consider him a friend
for all his help to me.

 

Secondly, I wouldn't begin to work on ANY of my Drakes without Garey's CD
for that unit.  It takes away the guesswork of the wrong schematic and shows
you enough to put things back as they belong, not the way someone else
wanted them to be.  Garey's CD is like a Sam's photofact, but even handier
because the photos are in color and closeups are given that show individual
boards and parts as needed.

 

There, now you know more than you wanted to know, but Garey isn't going to
blow his own horn, nor is Tom, so I tooted away for the both of them!!!  

 

73,

Don, WB5HAK

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Re: [Drakelist] Variac

2011-10-16 Thread Ed Tanton
I'm with Evan, Neil. Be certain you do this in a quiet environment. The
instant you perform an increase and you hear a frying/crackling noise, BACK
DOWN 'til you don't, and give it an hour or two at 5V or 10V lower than
where the noise started. I actually had this non-destructively happen, and
the device (I forget what) ultimately survived.

 

Ed Tanton
 
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///snip

 

Neil, 

 

I'm somewhat compulsive about such things.  The older a rig is, or the
longer it has set idle, the longer the program or process.  In the worst
case, I use 10 volts per hour increase.  In other cases, I start with 10
volts per 15 minutes.  My Variac has three meters---one for voltage, one for
current, and one for power in watts.  It is easy to see that when the
ammeter increase at about the same amount as the voltage, you readily know
there is a problem and not to proceed until fault isolation has been
completed.

 

73,

 

Evan, K9SQG



///snip

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Re: [Drakelist] FS-4 Replacement?

2011-10-06 Thread Ed Tanton
I'm curious Garey about why not the other lead? It just shouldn't be
grounded? Maybe a 0.01 in series with the shield side? Or, couldn't he do a
6:1 balun and a 2 cond. shielded cable? (Admittedly, it's more work than
simply one side of the socket and chassis ground.) His impedances would
match better with the balun. I think I'd do that-and I also think I'd do a
little cabinet with a switched set of ranges using your 500kHz suggestion
AND switched BPFs. That'd be 'clean' and pretty nice.

Ed Tanton
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation

2011-07-25 Thread Ed Tanton
Especially with the R7-A version. If you never noticed on my website, I have
a production-prototype R7 I'm infinitely proud to call mine!!!

I also have a RACAL RA6790/GM which has a 10MHz external timebase oscillator
input. One of these days I'm going to finally get my GPS Reverence actually
setup-which as I understand it surpasses both Rubidium AND Cesium-Beam
standards. IF you use either a WIN 98 (maybe '95) or WIN NT machine, you can
actually compensate it for the delay in the coax (which HAS to be at least
LMR400 from the external ANT to the SAT RCVR). It will have to be pretty
near the '6790 since I have been told even the phase shift associated with
any significant length of coax for the 10MHz messes with the accuracy. I
have no idea how all of this winds up being affected by other crystals
within the '6790. And yes I know: it's MAJOR overkill... but that's what the
fun is about, isn't it?!!! LOL

Ed Tanton
 
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-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Monday, July 25, 2011 6:31 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Yet another Drake TR7 X-Lock Implementation

On Mon, 25 Jul 2011 08:36:05 -0400, Joe Pyles wrote:

It's not just the PTO in the TR7 that drifts. On the PBT/Reference board
the are 3 crystal oscillators, 40 mhz, 13.695 mhz, and 8.050 mhz, and they
all move around with temperature. The 40 mhz crystal moves the most and it
not only is part of the synthesizer, it provides the 500 khz reference for
the DR7 board. When you install the X-Lock you control the PTO drift but not
the crystals.


That's a very good point, Joe. Every time I open up one of my rigs, they all
seem to be just a :hair off. After fully aligning both my TR-7 and R-7A,
with the same frequency counter referenced to the same Rubidium standard,
they are far enough off from each other after bing in service for a while
that people notice that I am off frequency if I transcieve from the R-7A.
There is an adjustment procedure for that in the R-7 manual that is
reminiscent of the 4-Line (pre-C) alighment. I woulda thunk they'd learned
enough that the 7s wouldn't do that

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Hum

2011-07-01 Thread Ed Tanton
Nice Garey!

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Thursday, June 30, 2011 9:54 PM
To: Paul Christensen
Cc: Drakelist group
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Hum

Paul -

Interesting.

Something to try.  A piece of copper wire, as big as will fit, looped around
the outside of the transformer in the same plane as the transformer winding.
Short the ends together, forming a complete 'shorted turn' around the
transformer.

I suspect a sheet of mu-metal stuck vertically behind the PTO, (don't forget
the extension of the guide pin!,) might also help.

Hopefully a combination of small 'fixes' can take care of the problem,
rather than go through the pain of re-orienting the power transformer!

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



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Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Hum

2011-07-01 Thread Ed Tanton
Heavens... how ignorant I feel!!! I have seen that copper band so-o-o many
times and never realized THAT was what it was for!!! Thanks Garey!!!

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Friday, July 01, 2011 9:36 AM
To: Drakelist group
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4C PTO Hum

Paul -

Worth a shot!  :-)

Transformers that have the copper band 'shorting turn' around them typically
have a band about 1.5
- 2 wide.  I dunno if the larger cross section would help significantly or
not.  Thinking of a band the width of the core, with tabs to fit under the
transformer mounting bolts. ??

Have you tried a piece of steel, (tin can, etc.,) as a shield just behind
the PTO?  Solidly attached to the chassis.  IF sufficient improvement to
warrant, try a piece of mu-metal in the same spot.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA




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Re: [Drakelist] Collins, Drake etc.

2011-06-21 Thread Ed Berbari
I enjoyed the conversation about the Collins, Drakes, etc.  The cost issues 
certainly ring true for me.  I had just received my General in the Spring of 
1965 during my sophomore year of high school.  Later that summer I saw a 
fancy Cadillac being driven in my small Ohio town with ham plates (WB6RER) 
from California.  I asked the woman driving the car if she was a ham and she 
replied that her husband was the ham.  I informed her that our club was 
meeting that evening and invited him to attend.  She said that they would be 
coming back to the hotel at 6 PM and I could ask him myself.  I waited in 
the parking lot that evening and her husband turned out to be Andy Devine, 
the western movie character actor.  They were in town doing summer stock 
theater.  He had a KWM-2 in the Cadillac!  We talked ham radio for almost an 
hour.  It was a great experience, but I concluded that you had to be movie 
star rich to have a mobile KWM-2.


Ed, W9EJB

- Original Message - 
From: kc9...@aol.com

To: k4...@mindspring.com; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Friday, June 17, 2011 10:33 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Collins, Drake etc.



Interesting conversation!

Well, I have here today the Collins KWM-2 and S3 line, a 'B' line, a 'C' 
line (Full Sherwood). Hallicrafters SX-117/HT-44, and 
SX-115/HT-32Balong with my only modern riga TT Orion II.


I could not afford any of this in my early days (1964) of hamming. Used 
Knight Kit/Heathkit  very used older stuff (HRO-7 etc)


I actually use all of this on a regular basis.

Here is my rundown:

1) Collins = nice to operate, very reliable, great for SSB, not for CW, 
looks cool, easy to maintain. and I like the 6146's
2) Drake = superb in every way, PBT is a real +, needs very little 
maintenance, very stablehas nearly as good of contest/weak DX 
performance as TT Orion
3) Halli's...just fun to use and performance is really goos as 
well...better than most may think/remember
4) TT OII, really a superb TXCVR in all wayssuper easy to use, no 
multi=level menus, top notch rcvr. no tune, nice big knobs , manual never 
needed


The vintage stuff is just more fun!
I like working on the stuff if neededit's the technology I understand 
and can work on.


73,
Lee, KC9CDT



-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com
To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Fri, Jun 17, 2011 9:33 am
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Collins, Drake etc.


Richard Knoppow wrote:




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Re: [Drakelist] Drake R-4C score

2010-06-07 Thread Ed Tanton
Obviously you should keep the 'new' one, and sell me the Sherwood one for
the $200-after all (heh heh) wouldn't you rather have a stock unit, and not
one with all those nasty mods? LOL

 

 

Ed Tanton

 

Website:  http://www.n4xy.com http://www.n4xy.com   
 
All emails IN  OUT checked by 
Norton AntiVirus with AutoProtect 

--
Wag more  -  Bark Less

--

 

 

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[Drakelist] OT: Ditek Paddle

2009-02-21 Thread Ed G
Excuse the OT post...
I'm looking to buy one of the old (well, early 1990s vintage) Ditek CW
paddles.  It is roughly similar in appearance to a Brown Bros paddle, but a
bit heavier. Was made by Ditek Industries. Thanks for any info.
--Ed--


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[Drakelist] OT - Wanted - December 1992 73 Magazine Article

2009-01-27 Thread Ed G

If anyone has a copy of December 1992 73 magazine, I am looking for an
article called Iambic Keyer Paddles. It is supposed to be in that issue.
I'd be glad to compensate you for time/trouble copying the article. Thanks!
--Ed, N3CW-

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Re: [Drakelist] L-4B plate supply upgrade

2009-01-17 Thread Ed
Thanks Eric. I looked high and low for a way to eliminate the 100V bias so any 
plate supply would work for the L-4B. I'm building a full wave supply with a 
peter dahl trans for whatever amp I'm powering and this is a great article on 
what needs to be done. I'll be making the mod soon and will post if I have any 
trouble whatsoever.
I highly recommend the L-4B. Mine has given me many years of service with 
minimal problems.
73, 
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[Drakelist] L-4B plate supply upgrade info

2009-01-15 Thread Ed
Just wanted to share this article I found on swapping out the power supply,how 
to handle biasing etc.
http://www.k0gkd.com/l4b.html
73,
W8KQV-Ed___
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Re: [Drakelist] L-4B pwr supply upgrade

2009-01-03 Thread Ed
Thanks for the replies!
I have already done the upgrade on the original supply. I show about 2700V on 
SSB and get between 1000-1100 watts at full power. My tubes are mixed,one being 
an eimac and the other an amperex. I'm not so sure the specs are the same. I 
have most of the parts for a plate supply other than the transformer anyway so 
I was considering it.
I'm wondering if it would be a big help to swap the tubes with the new 
graphites.
Thanks again and I do love the drakes!
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[Drakelist] L-4B pwr supply upgrade

2009-01-02 Thread Ed
I am planning on upgrading my L-4PS,increasing the plate voltage by building a 
complete new supply.
I'm not sure what to do about the voltage on cinch plug pin 5 (120V+) ,exactly 
what it's for or if it is necessary.
I haven't found much info but surely someone has done this before.
Appreciate any info.
Thanks!
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[Drakelist] Plate supply plans L-4B?

2009-01-02 Thread Ed
Sorry I'm not real familiar with the site but I appreciate any help and 
comment. 
I want to build a full wave supply at around 3500V so I can easily run the 
legal limit.
Maybe somebody already has plans for something. I'm sure I'm not the first to 
want to do this.
Thanks for reading and any help.
73
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RE: [drakelist] Vintage Unused R-4B on eBay

2008-07-14 Thread Ed G
Of course it's unused.it doesn't work.

--Ed-

 

 

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, July 14, 2008 7:06 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Vintage Unused R-4B on eBay

 

Well let me get my $.02 in here...

Folks in regards to this particular seller on ebayI really do think he's
being honest.  This R4B and all of the rest of his stuff... are
undoubtedly unused,.BY HIM

Carl WD8NHK





  _  

Get the scoop on last night's hottest shows and the live music scene in your
area - Check out http://www.tourtracker.com?NCID=aolmus0005000112
TourTracker.com!



RE: [drakelist] MN2000 balanced feeders

2008-06-02 Thread Ed G
I have had great success here with what is essentially a 135 foot inverted
vee fed with 300 ohm twinlead. I use a DX Engineering 1:1 balun mounted
outside the house, with a short section of RG-8 leading into the shack (and
the MN-2000). That way I don't have to worry about bringing in the twinlead.
The 1:1 balun keeps the impedance on the transmission line from dropping too
low as might happen with the 4:1 balun. I did slightly change the length of
the twinlead (should be approx 108/F) to find a perfect match on all bands.

--Ed G-

 

 

  _  

From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On
Behalf Of Bill Ellis
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 1:45 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] MN2000  balanced feeders

 

Has anyone been able to adapt the MN2000 for use with open feeders?


Bill, WB9CAC

  



[drakelist] OT/WTB: Envirotronics Paddle

2007-11-11 Thread Ed G

Ed G [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hello,
 Looking for an old Envirotronics keyer paddle; let me know of any for
sale. Thanks!
--Ed, N3CW--




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[drakelist] Transcievers on 160 meters

2007-03-15 Thread Ed


Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Has anyone come up with a modification that will let the transcievers work 
on 160 meters?

73,
Ed-KV5I 


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[drakelist] TR4CW for AM use

2007-01-20 Thread Ed


Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Is the TR4C-TR4CW a good performer for AM use?
Ed-KV5I
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[drakelist] Update on R7 Digital Display

2007-01-02 Thread Goss, Ed
Thanks to all those who offered ideas on troubleshooting the missing
digital display.  Turned out to be a seating problem with the connectors
underneath the board. Removal of the digital board and reseating with a
bit of deOxit on the board pins has fixed the problem.
--Ed G--
 
 


[drakelist] R7A Freq Display

2007-01-01 Thread Goss, Ed

Hi Folks...
 Suddenly my R7A frequency display stopped working; it's completely dark.  
The rest of the receiver appears to be operating normally.  Any ideas where to 
start looking to fix this?  Thanks for the help!
--Ed--


[drakelist] WTB: FYO Iambic Paddle

2006-08-16 Thread Goss, Ed





  Hello,
   
  Am looking for an old W8FYO 
  iambic paddle. Thanks for any info.
  --Ed--


RE: [drakelist] R7 audio

2006-05-30 Thread Goss, Ed



I had 
a problem with my R7A that sounded very similar, even had the crackling 
noise. Turned out to be one of the circuit boards (I can probably find my 
notes to tell you which one), but the fix was to pull the board, clean the 
contacts, and apply *small* amount of DeOxit before reinstalling board. I 
ended up doing this with all the boards. 

--Ed 
G--


  -Original Message-From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of DW 
  HarmsSent: Friday, May 26, 2006 6:45 PMTo: 
  drakelist@www.zerobeat.netSubject: [drakelist] R7 
  audio
  
  Drakelist de 
  PA2DW,
  
  I am using a R7 in combination 
  with my TR7 for some time now, with utmost satisfaction. What I do notice 
  though, is the difference in the way the R7 sounds in comparison with the TR7 
  receiver.
  Especially with the AGC in 
  position fast, the audio sounds very much like it is saturated in some way 
  and there is a kind of crackling noise coming along with the received signal. 
  I always thought it was my R7 that did that and it was something on the list 
  to fix. But today I visited Evert PA2KW and his R7 did sound very much the 
  same like mine! We went over it and tried tweaking the AGC but with no 
  success
  Now I wonder if others experience 
  the same and if there is a fix for it. It surely must have something to do 
  with the AGC circuit. 
  
  Evert and I decided to go and 
  search for the service manual of the R7 which we dont have, so any source for 
  that will also be highly appreciated!
  
  VY 73, Dick 
  PA2DW
  
  


   has notified the sender that this message has 
been received.
  


RE: [drakelist] shelf life of tubes

2006-05-05 Thread Goss, Ed

Goss, Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
There is no magic number; too many variables including design of the tube, how 
well the procedure for manufacturing was developed, how well the procedure was 
followed, quality control of fabrication equipment, handling of the tube after 
manufacture, and many others
--Ed, N3CW--



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Gary Poland
Sent: Thursday, May 04, 2006 7:44 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [drakelist] shelf life of tubes



Gary Poland [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Jim,
  A fellow at Eimac once told me that  3-500Z's will get gassy if left 
stored for long periods of time. Other then that I dont know.

73, Gary 


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[drakelist] OT: WTB - Brown brothers Paddle

2006-04-24 Thread Goss, Ed

Goss, Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hello,
 Looking for an old Brown Bros Machine Co BTL Twin Lever Paddle CW Key; let 
me know if you might have one available; thanks!
--Ed G--


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Re: [drakelist] re: Oh! The humanity!

2006-04-21 Thread Ed Long

Ed Long [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I would divorce her too if she smashed the radios in my shack. I would not 
think of smashing anything that belonged to my spouse regardless if I liked 
her hobbies or not.

Ed Long
WA4SWJ
C-Line




- Original Message - 
From: Karl Oyster, K1KO [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, April 20, 2006 10:06 PM
Subject: [drakelist] re: Oh! The humanity!



 Karl Oyster, K1KO [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
 gang
 --
 Noticed on one of the for sale bulletin boards (eham, qrz, or
 something) that there was some drake equipment listed with the
 following note (or something very close to it):  I'm selling some
 damaged gear for a friend who's in the middle of a divorce.  His
 wife got tired of his hobby and chose to show this by taking a
 sledge hammer to his shack.   I'm betting the equipment on ebay is
 part of that.  You would have to hit it with something similar to a
 sledge to get that kind of damage!!

 73,

 Karl, K1KO

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Re: [drakelist] Call Sign Survey

2005-05-31 Thread Ed Hatcher



I don't believe the vanity program should exist. A call is what you make 
it.
Ed-KV5I

  - Original Message - 
  From: 
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  
  To: drakelist@www.zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2005 1:21 AM
  Subject: [drakelist] Call Sign 
  Survey
  
  Hello Group,
   I am new to the group. You have been very helpful with my 
  questions for a source for S230 plug and the TR-7 RC/TX problem (Garey is 
  still trying to work me though this interment problem. I have just moved from 
  Tulsa, OK back to South Florida.I got my 1st call in Miami(1967) 
  it was WN4KGB, then I upgraded to general it wentto the WB4KGB call. I 
  had that call in collage and the first few years after going to work for 
  American Airlines (Tulsa). After 30 years with AA I moved back to south 
  Florida last year. I am parochial to both calls. WD5GLW I had for 25+ 
  years and have over 280 DX countries. WB4KGB Ihad 10 years and only 
  worked about 35 country. WB4KGB was my first.The DX count is not a fair 
  comparison being a kid in high school and collage only had about 150 watts and 
  a 2 ele gotham beam (some of you older guys might remember gotham antenna 
  company), could not afford a rotor so turned it by hand with a BIG pipe 
  wrench. WD5GLW I always had great DRAKE equipment and a L-7 to help, 
  Youcan remember the KGB call easier. I know I am the one that has 
  to decide butthough I would throw outsurvey and see what call you 
  guys would pick with the little info I gave you. Or how the call sounds 
  to you. So if you would please vote. Again great to be in the 
  group.
  
  TNX 73 Mike WD5GLW
  
  
  
  

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RE: [drakelist] AC-4 Voltage Carrying Cable to Radio Needed

2004-10-06 Thread Goss, Ed

Goss, Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Try some custom cable fabricators on the Web.  I just picked one at random
(I have no experience with them):

https://www.cablestogo.com/custom_form.asp

If their price is not to your liking perhaps they would just sell you three
feet of cable.

--Ed G--


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Lee Bahr
Sent: Wednesday, October 06, 2004 12:41 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [drakelist] AC-4 Voltage Carrying Cable to Radio Needed



Lee Bahr [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--
Does anyone on here have an idea where I can get a replacement power cable
for my AC-4 power supply?  I'm talking about the cord carrying the filament,
B+, bias, and switch voltages going to the Jones plug.  (Not the AC power
cord).  If all fails, I guess I'll have to make up a harness out of discreet
wires and bundle them together.  I hate thinking of doing that.  (The
present cord is shot, cut, kaput)!  I can't find a wire supplier with the
appropriate number of wires and wire size needed to make one up and it
appears places like Allied or Mouser either want to sell 100 or 1000 foot
spools of control wire if I could even find the right cable.  The Jones plug
is in OK shape.  I think the cable was probably made up special for Drake.
(I can live with the wrong `wire colors.  I can even live with more wires in
the bundle doubled up to handle the filament current if required to do so.
I just don't want so many extra wires that the cable diameter becomes to
much larger then an original cable).

Maybe someone has an AC-4 with a burned out power transformer and bad
electrolytics I could purchase.  I'd sure appreciate hearing from anyone
with ideas on how to handle the problem.  I'd prefer either a salvaged old
cable from an AC-4, a new piece of power cable that would have the correct
wires within it, or a burned up AC-4 supply with a good cable.  What have i
not thought of on this?
Lee, w0vt
Houston


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[drakelist] Need Drake 1-A Tuning Knob

2004-08-17 Thread Goss, Ed

Goss, Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
--

Am looking for a main tuning knob for the Drale 1-A; need the larger (inner)
of the two knobs.  Thanks for any info!
--Ed G--

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RE: [drakelist] Drake 1-A Question

2004-08-16 Thread Goss, Ed



http://www.dproducts.be/Drake_Museum/1line.htm

--Ed 
G--



  -Original Message-From: Jack Wilson 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]Sent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 8:23 
  PMTo: Goss, Ed; [EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: RE: 
  [drakelist] Drake 1-A Question
  Hi, 
  
  
  Could anyone give me directions to Jim Cherry's 
  website?
  
  Thanks,
  
  Jack
  K1HW
  
-Original Message-From: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]On Behalf Of Goss, 
EdSent: Sunday, August 15, 2004 6:37 PMTo: 
[EMAIL PROTECTED]Subject: [drakelist] Drake 1-A 
Question
Hello,
I have 
recently begun restoring an old 1-A. Basically it's in pretty good 
shape, but I'm not sure all the main tuning parts are there. Right now 
it's just gotone main tuning knob, and 
not the two concentric knobs that most pictures show. The outer, 
slightly smaller knob is the fine tuning knob, and that's what I have, and 
it seems to work very well. But I don't see any mechanism or any way 
another knob would fit, or how it would "fast tune" the main gear. Jim 
Cherry's website shows two pictures of 1-As - one with the calibrator and 
one without. The one without has what appears to be just one main 
tuning knob, not two concentric ones. My 1-A is an old one without the 
calibrator, S/N 349.
 Did all 1-As have this two 
knob arrangement? Any ideas on where to get the parts I might 
need? I suppose I could use a junker set if anyone knows of one. 
Any ideas? Thanks!
--Ed, 
N3CW--



[drakelist] Drake 1-A Question

2004-08-15 Thread Goss, Ed



Hello,
I have 
recently begun restoring an old 1-A. Basically it's in pretty good shape, 
but I'm not sure all the main tuning parts are there. Right now it's just 
gotone main tuning knob, and not the two 
concentric knobs that most pictures show. The outer, slightly smaller knob 
is the fine tuning knob, and that's what I have, and it seems to work very 
well. But I don't see any mechanism or any way another knob would fit, or 
how it would "fast tune" the main gear. Jim Cherry's website shows two pictures 
of 1-As - one with the calibrator and one without. The one without has 
what appears to be just one main tuning knob, not two concentric ones. My 1-A is 
an old one without the calibrator, S/N 
349.
 Did all 1-As have this two 
knob arrangement? Any ideas on where to get the parts I might need? 
I suppose I could use a junker set if anyone knows of one. Any 
ideas? Thanks!
--Ed, 
N3CW--



[drakelist] 455.000 Crystal

2004-08-11 Thread Goss, Ed

Goss, Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Hello,
 Anyone have a 455.000 kHz crystal they want to sell?
--Ed G--

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[drakelist] Looking for Accessory Crystals for 2-B

2004-06-01 Thread Goss, Ed

Goss, Ed [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterence to the drakelist gang
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Hello,
 I'm looking for some accessory crystals for the 2-B receiver.  I really
need the one for 10m CW -- which is 24.5 mHz.
Also, a couple for WWV would be nice:  either 13.5 or 14 mHz  and 11.5 or 19
mHz.

 Am also trying to find an knob for the 2-BQ -- the Q-mult tuning knob.
I think it's the same as the preselector knob on the 2-B.  If you come upon
anything, let me know; thanks!

--Ed G--

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[drakelist] WTB: 2-B Accessory Band Crystals and Preselector Knob

2004-04-29 Thread Goss, Ed

Hello,
 I am looking for some accessory band crystals for my 2-B.  Need 24.5
mHz for the 10 meter CW band, and 14.0  11.5 mHz for WWV reception.

I also am looking for a preselector knob for the 2-B.  Let me know if you
spot anything!  Thanks.

--Ed, N3CW--

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RE: [drakelist] Bathing Drakes?

2004-04-28 Thread Goss, Ed

I know that in the spacecraft business, we are concerned about moisture
absorption in plastic parts.  In fact, plastic ICs are now graded by a
system that rates the moisture resistance of the plastic encapsulating
material.  I'd be willing to bet that early ICs and other plastic parts are
not very impervious to moisture absorption, and without a vacuum bake after
you wash this older equipment, you are setting yourself up for long-term
internal degradation of the die (or whatever is inside the plastic
encapsulant).  A home-oven bake would be insufficient to get rid of moisture
that now is starting to begin a corrosive process that will accelerate part
failure.
--Ed Goss--


-Original Message-
From: john [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 8:14 PM
To: Jim Shorney; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; VE3AX
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Bathing Drakes?


At 06:46 PM 4/27/04 -0500, Jim Shorney wrote:
In the modern manufacturing world, PC boards are often washed with
de-ionized water in what amounts to a huge dishwasher/dryer.


I think modern boards are largely all FR4 material, rather than
the pressed paper/phenolic that was used in Drake stuff.

Might be fine, might not... I'd rather play it safe, take my time
and enjoy the process

YMMV!
John 
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[drakelist] WTB: 2-AC Cal Crystal

2004-04-27 Thread Goss, Ed

Hello,
 Anyone have an extra 100 kHz calibrator crystal for the Drake 2-AC?
--Ed G--

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[drakelist] Have A Laff

2004-02-03 Thread Goss, Ed

Hello,
 It can be quite entertaining reading the description of electronic
items on Ebay.  Over the years I've cut and pasted some of my favorites.  If
you happen to see one you've written here, there's no malicious intent -
your wording has just given me a chuckle, and I thought I'd pass that along.
Here my list, with caps, fonts, and spelling preserved as in the original:


I HAVE PLUGGED IT IN AND IT WORKS FINE,THIS UNIT HAS NOT BEEN TRIED AND SO
IS SOLD AS-IS

Item image is sharp, photo image may be out of focus or have reflection of
flash.

There are a few minor scratches in the paint, which give it charachter.

YOU ARE TAKING ENORMOUS RISKS. BE SURE THAT THE SELLER DOESN'T HAVE THE
KNOWLEDGES ABOUT THESE AT ALL AND CAN NOT TAKE ANY RESPOSIBILITES AT ALL.

the guy i got it from says it works fine he's a good friend and he would not
lie to me.

This was grandpa's. It worked when he died.

This amp has no outside cabinet. So it should run all the cooler.

I have been a amateur radio operator for over 10 years. My electronic skills
are limited.

Some light scuff marks, nothing to have a hissy fit over.

WE HAVE NOT TRIED IT SO NO GUARANTEES HOWEVER IF WE WERE TO BET IT SURE
LOOKS LIKE IT WORKS.

THERE IS ALSO THE RESIDUE OF TAPE FROM A STICK ON THERMOMETER..WE DO NOT
WANT TO CLEAN THIS AS THE PAINT IS PERFECT

WE NEVER SAW IT WORK THERE IS NO POWER SUPPLY OR BOOK BUT IT IS SUPPOSED TO
WORK AND IF THERE EVER WAS A CANDIDATE FOR BEING OK THIS IS IT.

WE TOOK THE COVERS OFF TO HAVE A LOOK AROUND INSIDE AND IT IS BEAUTIFUL...WE
ALSO CANT GET THE COVERS BACK ON RITE

This transmitter doesnt have a mark on it. It is so shiney that i cant get
the camera to do right.

I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT THIS EQUIPMENT WAS FOUND IN A BASEMENT AND ATTIC !!

Both of these Heathkit thingamabobs have a Red light that lights up when
plugged in. No idea what they do. Feel free to ask questions.

There are many scratches in the paint due to my own stupidity.

last it was used it worked well...that was a long time ago and I don't know
how to test it now

I am not sure if it works as I dont know how it works. That is about all I
know.

It also comes with several cables that may or may not be for it.

I do not like to be gouged with high packing and high shipping charges and I
do not do it to others. I do need $10.00 packing to make it as UPS proof as
possible.

Please ask questions, but remember I am stupid when it comes to this
equipment.

I will try to answer all questions but please don't wait until the last
minute because i don't sit in fron of this thing 24/7.

Picture Shows everything included in auction...item may be different then
pictured.

GUARANTEED to be in good-working condition. I personally do not know exactly
how to use this thing.

THIS IS A VERY NICE HEATHKIT SB-614 TRANSMITTER. WHEN I PLUGGED IT IN
NOTHING HAPPENED.

selling for a friend of mine who passed away, have no idea what they are,
probably work,

I recently took it all apart and cleaned everything. Unfortunately I did
such a good job that some of the tube markings are no longer visible and I
don't know which is which and where they go

Exterior has light surface rust and I left it that way not to change
originalty.

How the paint got so abused is a mystery to me

...and am an individual not a business so I can not guarantee it.

Seven (7) Heathkit Receivers and one PCS. They look like they all work.

Receiver fires up with the usual hissing and tweeting.

I will pack for free so its done right, but you pay for bubble wrap

I know nothing about the function or working order! Please educate me with
questions!

the mic jack and power connectors dont seem to be there but the spaces and
wires seem to be. I really don't know how this is supposed to be.

It measures Freqs in MHz  KHz and has some switches on it I never knew how
to use,

I ventilated the counter's cabinet to keep internal temperature at a
reasonable level.

Wife had cow must sell to prevent extended stay in Rover's house.

The rubber feet left along time ago.

The case is dirty and it sounds like there is dirt inside of the case.

Original paint with some light scratches left by being part of a Drake
station.

There are no dents, but it has a pushed in spot on the top.

I have to believe this rig is the reason for Heath going out of business.

it worked fine until i started pushing buttons

There are a couple of surface scratches on the top of the unit from dusting.

...depending on the time of day ,you cannot turn the dial without picking up
something.

It is rated at 90 watts INPUT on cw. I was able to briefly peak it at 90
watts OUTPUT! So, I know the tubes are fine.

I was able to pull in a few stations faintly, made a lot of different
humming sounds

Some cracks in dial drum (they all have them).

This unit works but needs repairs.

DUH. AGAIN I KNOW YOU ALL THING I AM A DUMMY BUT HERE WE GO AGAIN IN THE
WALL LIGHTS UP SAYS HEATHKIT

I don't know what it is. I do know that 

[drakelist] Tymeter Clock Seconds Wheel Labels

2004-01-14 Thread Goss, Ed

Hello,
 For those of you who still use the old Tymeter mechanical clocks, you
know that many of them have seconds wheels that either have rubbing damage
or just show the effects of age.  I've got some replacement labels
available; check my site for details:

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/goldenoak/tymeter.html

Thanks.
--Ed, N3CW--

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