Re: [Drakelist] Garey Barrell K4OAH SK

2018-02-20 Thread Steve Berg
I was fortunate to have met Garey when he was visiting some family 
members in nearby LaFox, Illinois.  I have his 2B CD and it has been a 
great help in keeping that old receiver in great shape.  I hope that 
something can be worked out with his family to keep his Drake legacy 
alive.  He was a real resource, and a fine man.


Steve WA9JML




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Re: [Drakelist] Shure 444D Microphone wiring question

2012-01-11 Thread Steve Berg


I am trying to wire up my old Shure 444D, and find something strange. 
According to the manual, there are supposed to be red, white, black, and 
shield wires in the coiled cable.  That is what shows coming out of the 
cable inside the mic base.  Red is mic element, shield is also for the 
mic element, white is PTT, and black is PTT ground.  At the plug end of 
the coiled cable, there is the shield, the black lead which connects to 
the PTT ground, a red wire which seems to be the switched PTT, blue and 
yellow wires.  What sort of magic is going on in this cable?  Any 
pointers would be appreciated!


Steve WA9JML

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Re: [Drakelist] Slightly Off-Topic: EICO 717 KEYER

2012-01-02 Thread Steve Berg
Curt, you will like that TO keyer a lot.  I have had one for more than 
25 years.  It is a very good idea to replace all of the capacitors in it 
as the electrolytics are shot by now, and the black beauties are not in 
the best of shape, either.  Before I replaced the black beauties, the 
speed of the keyer would vary quite a bit with changes in humidity. 
Mine has some quirks with the power supply and VR tubes, but it still 
works very well.  I will eventually get those sorted out, too.


73,

Steve WA9JML

On 1/2/2012 7:15 AM, Eddy Swynar wrote:


On 2012-01-01, at 7:50 PM, Curt Nixon wrote:


Just picked up a Hallicrafters TO keyer for the vintage desk also.
Same keyer basically.


*/Hi Curt,/*

I think that the one major difference betwixt the /EICO/ the
/Hallicrafters TO/keyer is that very same ...weak link in the chain
that affected mine here, i.e. the /TO/used (I believe) a sealed
mercury-wetted keying relay, whereas the /EICO/went with that
reed-relay-in-a-field-coil route to achieve its external keying...

I say weak link as no offence to the /EICO/designers, but rather, as a
potential source for trouble that may well require the owner's attention
at some point in its future...trouble is, if said owner is not all that
familiar with the whys  wherefores of reed relays / field coils (my
right hand is raised!), then one can through a /LOT/of vexing gyrations
 travails in the trouble-shooting process that are simply not
necessary...! *: )*

*/~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/*



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Re: [Drakelist] Copper chassis restoration

2011-09-06 Thread Steve Berg
I have not tried it on a Drake chassis, but have had good performance 
with a product called Nevrdull.  It comes in a can and is cotton wadding 
with some sort of solvent on it.  It is non abrasive, and does a great 
job on silverware and Harley exhaust pipes.


Steve WA9JML

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Re: [Drakelist] RCS-4

2011-08-03 Thread Steve Berg
Loren, the best penetrating oil I have ever found is Kroil.  You can 
generally get it at sporting goods stores, such as Midway USA.  I have 
used it successfully for several tough problems with rusty bolts and nuts.


Good luck on your project!

Steve WA9JML


On 8/3/2011 6:48 AM, Loren McCullough wrote:

Just looking for any problems or gotchas to look for. I know it was
fully operational back in the 80s when i used it last, but the antennas
got taken down and the outdoor unit has just been lying around outside
while I was QRT. I know I have to replace the terminal strips, the
screws are all beyond use.

What is the best way to take it apart? All of the screws appear to be
rusted and won't loosen.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 8/2/2011 8:50 PM, Richard Tucker wrote:

Loren
I have used the RCS-4 since the 70's. I have had to work on mine a few
times. I bought a second one at a hamfest and have worked on it a bit.
Do you have specific questions?
Rick Tucker
W0RT
- Original Message - From: Loren McCullough
loren...@verizon.net
To: drakelist Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 2:57 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] RCS-4



Anyone have any experience or insight into resurrecting an RCS-4. I
haven't really looked at either piece yet. The control head has been
sitting in my attic for abt 20 years and the remote antenna switch
has been sitting outside in the elements.

Off subject, I also have a Ham-II/CD44 rotor and control head that is
in about the same situation except that the rotor has been in my
attic since the tower crashed in the late 80s.

Would like to get them both back in operational condition.

Thanks,
Loren - WA3WZR

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Re: [Drakelist] First Rigs - If you could do it all over again, what would your first station be?

2011-06-17 Thread Steve Berg


My first rig was a command set receiver on 40 meters along with a 
factory built Knight T-60 bought from another more affluent teenage ham. 
 My antenna was a Gotham V-80 vertical mounted on a redwood 4x4.  The 
antenna was a birthday present from my parents.  I was on the air for 
less than $100, which was still a large sum for a sophomore in high 
school in 1963.  I put a power supply on the back of the ARC-5 using the 
info from an article in Popular Electronics.  I also set up the first IF 
stage in the receiver so that it was regenerative as those receivers had 
a virtually no selectivity.  The only part of this station I still have 
is the Johnson straight key, which I have never liked.  I have never 
used a Collins rig, though one fellow in my home town had a KWM2.  He 
also owned a string of mens' stores, and a yacht, which he used to 
travel the world with the Collins rig.


I really wanted a National HRO50, and I have had two of them, since. 
The rig I still have that I used for years is a Gonset G-76 transceiver. 
 I have owned that one since 1965.  I am in the process of restoring it.


The Drake rig that I really like is the 2B.  I got mine some years back 
on e-bay, and really like it.  I pair it with an old Gonset GSB-100 
phasing exciter, and they work very well together.  I hooked both of 
them up to my Tapetone 6 meter receiving converter and my PH 
transmitting converter, and had a great time on 6 meters.  I worked 
Greenland with them.  That little receiver beats any other tube type 
receiver that I have ever used.  I do not have it in action right now 
due to space constraints.


I mainly use Ten Tec equipment now.  I have an Omni V.9  hooked to an 
Elecraft 6 meter transverter and an ancient Mirage amp for 6 meters, and 
a Corsair II for HF.  I also have 2 of the Argonaut II QRP rigs that 
tend to get a lot of use, both on HF and as a tunable IF for 
transverters.  I worked all continents with one hooked to a Ten Tec 
transverter and a 4 element beam during the peak of the last F2 cycle. 
Not bad for 8 watts.


When I get more room, I would like to get the old stuff back on the air 
again, and I have since acquired some command sets for 80 and 40 meters 
to get put back in service.  I don't know if I am going to start looking 
for another T-60 or Heath DX20 yet...


Not being a contest operator, I am not sure whether I would get much use 
from a Drake C line.  But, every so often I get the itch to try out a B 
line.  Time will tell.


Steve WA9JML

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Re: [Drakelist] Station upgrade?

2011-03-09 Thread Steve Berg


I have had good performance from a Hy-Gain DX-88 vertical.  It is a bear 
to put together, but it works well.  I have not had much luck on 80CW on 
QRP, but have worked numerous European and South American stations with 
100 watts on that band.  One item I highly recommend is the DX 
Engineering radial plate.  I got one of these, and now have about 70 
radials ranging from 18 to 22 feet long out in the back yard.  I have a 
small lot on a hillside, so I am thoroughly blocked to the west and 
north west.  I am looking forward to seeing how this works when I retire 
and head north to a much quieter and less obstructed location.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [Drakelist] (no subject)

2011-03-06 Thread Steve Berg

It plugs into a 4 pin socket on the back of the receiver.

On 3/6/2011 7:10 PM, Neil M Califano wrote:

All Drake Q-multipliers worked with the IF frequency.  The q-multiplier cabinets 
also typically had a speaker in them for the rig.

Was a cable run from the 2-AQ to the receiver? Where did it plug in?




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Re: [Drakelist] Wanted 4NB Noise Blanker

2011-02-01 Thread Steve Berg

Garey is there any reasonably easy way to put a noise blanker into a 2B?

Thanks!

Steve WA9JML

On 2/1/2011 3:26 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

Don -

You answered your own question/statement. I believe the words 'heavily
modified' were tossed around! :-)

The Sherwood mods essentially render the 4NB useless, as you have
discovered. The CW roofing filter is particularly bad, as it narrows the
noise bandwidth seen by the NB, and delays pulses through it so they no
longer match up with the blanking pulses.

The NB is very effective as some have stated, when used with the
original receiver topology. Like so much in the world of RF and
electronics in general, a receiver is a 'system'. The original design
was optimized (within cost constraints) as a whole. Anything that alters
that design takes the risk that it 'may' alter that basic, optimized
design, 'possibly' improving one characteristic. Unfortunately the
characteristic it improves almost always causes another characteristic
to decline, perhaps obviously, otherwise not so much.

The basic Drake NB is the same design from the R-4A through the R-7, and
most find them VERY effective on high level, short duty cycle impulse
noise. As soon as the noise pulses are 'stretched', either by source
characteristics or group delay through filters, the effectiveness drops
off quickly.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Don Jones wrote:


OK – I am going to stir the pot some.

I have one of those 4NB noise blanker’s installed in my R-4C. To be
honest that noise blanker is largely ineffective and over rated. I
have seen them sell for over $200 on e-bay. I scratch my head and
wonder why? In My Humble Opinion they are a over rated vessel of
fertilizer and none may abide by the odor there of.

Would I sell my 4NB noise blanker? NO. As you might recall I have one
of those Sherwood / Drake R-4C’s (late production SN), the service
receipt for it from Sherwood totals more than $900.

Bottom line, be prepared to be disappointed if you pay high dollar for
a 4NB noise blanker and it does little or nothing. Experiencing what I
have with my R-4C and 4NB, I would never throw away money on buying
one for my TR-4C.

Be careful what you wish for.

Don Jones KO7i

ps – my heavily modified R-4C has been outperforming my Ten Tec OMNI
VI in every way. The OMNI VI has a full load of filters. Plus the
INRAD roofing filter mod. I have trying to get the VP8O logged and I
have had to resort to using the R-4C to copy his very weak signal here
in Western WA.

Message: 1

Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 10:21:01 -0800

From: Kevin Nathan _k7rx@comcast.net_ mailto:k...@comcast.net

To: _drakelist@zerobeat.net_ mailto:drakelist@zerobeat.net

Subject: [Drakelist] Wanting to Buy

Message-ID: _mailman.599.1296569921.2744.drakelist@zerobeat.net_
mailto:mailman.599.1296569921.2744.drakel...@zerobeat.net

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Hi All,

I went to a vintage radio even over the weekend and was able to sell
some heavy metal and come back with much lighter cash. GRIN Now, I
would like to find the noise blanker for my R4C. Does anyone on the
list have one and what would you need for it?

Thanks much and very 73.

Kevin :)

Amateur Radio: K7RX



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Re: [Drakelist] Six Meter Options

2010-12-31 Thread Steve Berg
You might also consider Clegg equipment.  The Clegg 66er is a decent AM 
rig.  The Thor 6 is even better, but be sure to get both the RF box and 
the power supply/modulator.


73,

Steve WA9JML

On 12/31/2010 12:49 PM, Kevin Nathan wrote:

Hi All,
First of all, happy New Year to everyone! Thanks for your help and
advice throughout the year.
Now to my question. I now have a C line station running well and I like
it very much. I use it primarily on AM and really like the vintage radio
activities. I now have two other AM stations one of which I am going to
sell at an upcoming ham fest. I am active on a six meter AM group here
and would like to land some sort of vintage six meter station,
preferably some sort of transceiver that will work well on true AM. My
question is, what did Drake offer along that line? If not Drake, what
else might you recommend to me?
Thanks and very 73.
Kevin :)
Amateur Radio: K7RX



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Re: [drakelist] Drake Twins On CW

2008-07-04 Thread Steve Berg

Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--


Most of the Motorola radios I worked on in the factory and in field 
service had amplified mics, including the the Mocat CB radios.  I tend 
to use the non-amplified D104 mics with my older vacuum state rigs, and 
the amplified ones with the newer Ten Tecs.  Either way, they work 
great.  Of course, the amplifiers need to be wired correctly.  I was the 
tech there at Schaumburg who tested the first 144 amplified CB mics sent 
up from the Puerto Rico plant.  Not one of them worked.  I guess you 
could really call that gross ineptitude!


I also have good results with the Shure 444 mics, and those have a 
switch on the bottom to set the output impedance.  Less trouble than the 
Astatic preamp.


Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] Drake Twins On CW

2008-07-04 Thread Steve Berg

Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Hey, those keys and bugs need to cool off now and then.

Steve WA9JML

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Has anyone else noticed the irony of a thread titled Drake Twins on CW 
turning to a discussion of microphones?


73 es a happy 4th to all!
Lee WB6SSW


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(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut000507)

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[drakelist] Re: TV-3300LP Help?

2008-05-15 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I bought a Drake TV-3300-LP filter off of the e-place.  I find that it 
starts to attenuate and cut off at the lower end of the 15 meter band. 
I tried to take it apart, and it has resisted valiantly.  How do I get 
this thing apart so that I can take a look inside?


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] Request Drake users experience, opinions and comments for an all band HF Antennas

2008-03-30 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I have a hillside lot here that is on the smallish side.  I once tried a 
Hustler vertical up on a 30 foot mast on the rooftop.  I used some 
slotted PVC pipe to insulate the vertical from the mast.  I took rotor 
cable, and made 4 radials, one for each of my insulated steel guy wires. 
 I cut the insulation on the rotor cable and snipped out a section of 
wire so that I had reasonably well tuned radial wires for each of the HF 
bands from 40 to 10 meters.  I did not have enough length for 80 meter 
quarter wave radials with this setup, but did make some contacts on 80 
with it.  I had to use a tuner since I had no way to adjust the vertical 
while it was in position.  It worked out very well.  My first contact 
was in the old Yugoslavia on 15 meters with the 5 watts from a Heath 
HW-9.  It did very well with the National NCX-5 also.  Once you lift a 
vertical an appreciable portion of a wavelength above even lousy ground, 
the radials tend to become a ground plane and shield the antenna from 
the lossy ground below.  I did worry a lot about lightning, but had no 
strikes.  You might want to try something like this at your QTH.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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[drakelist] Re: Drake Low Pass Filters

2008-01-21 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I bought a Drake low pass filter off of e-bay a while back, and 
discovered that it had shifted down and was apparently cutting off about 
at 15 meters.  I think it is a model 3300.  I have yet to figure out how 
to take it apart to see if there are damaged or decrepit components, so 
will probably have to get another filter.  Any suggestions from the list 
members as to which models to look for would be appreciated.  I doubt 
that I will ever be running more than 500 watts, and will probably stick 
at 100 watts or so due to problems here with crappy local television setups.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] An Introduction a question about keyer for T-4XB

2007-10-23 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Hi Dennis,

What is that one additional component, and where does it go?

Steve WA9JML an otherwise happy TO keyer afficianado


Dennis Monticelli wrote:

Dennis Monticelli [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
I don't have a CMOS-4 so I cannot comment.  I have a Tick keyer that
just uses a single CMOS PIC controller and I find I can use it just
fine pretending it is non-iambic.

I agree with you regarding the memoryless TO keyer.  It is
unforgiving.  On the plus side it will teach you to send better code
:-)  It comes out of the closet at my QTH only during the vintage
contests.  I did do a simple mod to turn the raspy sidetone into a
nice sine wave.  It only took one additional component.

On 10/22/07, Doug Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Doug Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
On Mon, 2007-10-22 at 23:36 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

Personally I use the CMOS-4 from Idiom because it's one of the few
that
I can turn off that stupid iambic junk that will drive any bug user
crazy!  :-)

I didn't know that!  I had to drag out the manual and check it out.

I used to be able to send good code with my W9TO keyer but bought a new
Nye keyer in the mid-1980s along with a Bencher Iambic key.  I never
learned how to use iambic mode and don't care about it.  However, I did
become accustomed to the dot and dash memory and now I can hardly send
without it -- especially below 25 wpm or so..  So, the TO keyer is not
getting much use anymore.  (But it looks *so* good with the Drake
4-Line!)

The Nye and the CMOS-4 both have dot / dash memory and the memory
function works even with a non-iambic key.

With an iambic key connected to the CMOS-4, I don't find *any* mode that
is not iambic capable.  What V mode are you using?  Are you running V9
with no dot/dash memory?

And, more generally, what is the difference between Curtis, Accukeyer
and Logikey modes?  I've tried the various modes now and other than dot
and dash memory options I don't see much difference.  Man, I've been
pounding brass since '65 and I've got a lot to learn!

73,
-Doug, W7KF



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Re: [drakelist] New bill in Oklahoma

2007-09-05 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
Each time I buy a house, I make sure there are no covenants or other 
antenna restrictions encumbering it.  Years ago I rented a condo where 
there were no antennas allowed.  They kept trying to get me to buy that 
poorly built hovel, and I kept saying that I would not do so unless they 
gave me a waiver on antennas.  They never would, and I bought elsewhere. 
 When I took a job as a city administrator out in Western Illinois, the 
city clerk and I went through the ordinances, and found a restriction on 
the height of church steeples, but nothing about antennas.  A little 
research beforehand saves a lot of headaches later.  Here, the only 
hassle I get about ham radio is from one old lady who gets upset that 6 
meters tears up her soaps.  She is running a mast mounted preamp and 
several distribution amps in the house.  Since they all like to act like 
mixers, there is nothing I can do at my end.  Ironically, her late 
husband used to wipe out most of the televisions in the area running his 
old Heathkit on 10 meters.  For retirement, I'm buying 35 acres out in 
the middle of nowhere, as so long as BPL doesn't show up, the old 2B is 
going to get a lot of exercise with any antenna I feel like putting up.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] smoker's radio

2007-08-23 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--
And, speaking from very sad experience, do not use windex or other glass 
cleaners on optical grids or lines in measuring equipment, no matter how 
dirty they are.


Steve WA9JML

john wrote:


john [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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Be careful of windex on the front panel or dials!

John K5MO




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Re: [drakelist] Electrolytic rebuilding

2007-08-12 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
--

Not being a purist, I bought WA9TGT's electrolytic conversion for my 
Drake 2B, and installed it.  It is very clever and works well.  I don't 
care if the cans are replaced with blue tubulars.  My 2B is missing most 
of the correct factory knobs, so will never darken the door of a 
collection.  But it sure works nice, now and there is no more hum in the 
audio.  I think you could use his pc board adapter to replace other can 
type electrolytic capacitors such as those in my Gonset GSB-100.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] smoker's radio

2007-08-05 Thread Steve Berg


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You might also take up smoking fine cigars and drinking cognac.  It 
won't get the smell out of the equipment, but you will care about it a 
whole lot less.


73,


Steve WA9JML

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[drakelist] Question on LP Filter

2007-07-27 Thread Steve Berg


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I have a Drake TV3300-LP low pass filter, and it seems as though its 
cutoff frequency has shifted downward.  Using a wattmeter before it and 
one after it, the filter seems to attenuate signals in the 12 and 10 
meter bands by about 3 dB.  Below that, it works fine.  Any ideas on 
what is happening here?


73,

Steve WA9JML

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[drakelist] Re: Microphone Plug

2007-06-18 Thread Steve Berg


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I thought I saved the part numbers for those smaller than 1/4 inch phone 
plugs, and now cannot find them.  I am starting to fix my Gonset G-76 
transceiver and it uses the same plug as the Drakes.  Help?


Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] Noise Blanker discussion

2007-05-12 Thread Steve Berg


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I have never had a Drake receiver with a noise blanker, so I cannot 
speak about their performance, but I have used the blankers in my Ten 
Tec Argonaut II and the Omni V and find them to be very good.  The one 
in the Argo is very useful on pulse, solar, and auroral noise.  I use it 
as the tunable IF in my VHF system.  It can overload on loud signals 
that are near the frequency it is tuned to, but by backing off the RF 
gain, this can be easily fixed.  I wish someone made a blanker for the 2B.


Steve WA9JML


neil wrote:

neil [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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David  Chris Drake wrote:
Well, thanks to all for the many noise blanker comments.  


Mods.dk has an article by KL7NA called A New Noise Blanker for the
Drake R-4C that describes the author's modification of an old TenTec NB
board to work in his R4C. In the article, he claims that it performed
far better than the Drake 4NB. The TenTec board is no longer available,
but he includes the schematic - it's less complex than the Drake unit
and would probably be pretty easy to scratch build.

I have no experience with either the Drake or TenTec blankers, so can't
comment on his results.

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[drakelist] Re: Is there a National Radio List?

2007-01-29 Thread Steve Berg


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I am also working on my National NCX-5 transceiver and wonder if there 
is a somewhat comparable e-mail list for such critters?


Thanks,

Steve WA9JML
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Re: [drakelist] That e-bay shark....

2006-11-30 Thread Steve Berg


Steve Berg [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist gang
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I have only been stung once on e-bay and that was when I first started 
buying vintage equipment there.  I bought a Vibroplex bug that was in 
mint condition and had been tested.  When it arrived, the broken parts 
were also lovingly packed in the box.  It was missing the connection 
straps underneath the base.  It was not even functional, much less 
tested.  Fortunately, Mitch there at Vibroplex had the necessary parts 
and it now works just fine.  His is a rare company that can supply parts 
for a product more than 50 years old.  I expect that most equipment that 
is vacuum tube based is as cantankerous as I am, and it is mostly newer 
than I am.  So, one can plan on having some work to do with anything 
bought on e-bay or elsewhere.  My objection is that vendors misrepresent 
equipment they are selling.  I have bought items which the seller was 
honest and said that there were problems.  No problem with that.  I 
prefer buying and selling on lists such as this or on the Boatanchors 
list, or from people I know from these lists.  Still a thread like this 
is useful since it makes me aware of potential problems in advance.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] Oh the humanity!

2006-04-20 Thread Steve Berg


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Looks like it was shipped via UPS.  This station console looks only 
slightly worse than the TEK scope they ruined for me.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] T-4XC microphone

2006-01-26 Thread Steve Berg


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I cannot speak for anything about Drake transmitters, but I use 2 D104 
amplified mics on my Ten Tecs and get great audio reports.  I keep the 
gain on the mic preamps low, and turn up the audio gain on the rigs.  I 
use an unamplified D104 with my Gonset GSB-100 phasing SSB exciter and 
get great reports with that, even from the SSB-HiFI bunch on 40 meters. 
 I have a very deep voice and the D104s seem to work fine for me.  I 
use a Shure 444 with my National NCX-5, and with the Icom IC-202.  They 
work well, too.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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[drakelist] Q-Multiplier Question

2006-01-12 Thread Steve Berg


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I am thinking of getting a Q-multiplier to use with my 2B.  How does the 
2BQ compare with the Heath units in actual use?


73,

Steve WA9JML

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Re: [drakelist] R-4B bandswitch lubrication

2006-01-08 Thread Steve Berg


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I have never had problems with de-oxit on switch wafers in my National, 
Clegg, Gonset and Hallicrafters equipment.  I think I may have even used 
it on my 2B at one point or another.  For general cleaning purposes on 
either electronics or my smoking pipes collection, I use ethanol.  I buy 
the everclear variety from my local package goods store and use it 
sparingly with q-tips and pipe cleaners.  I would steer clear of the 
de-natured stuff, especially if it contains methanol.  It cleans well 
without dissolving most things that I want to remain behind.  For 
lubrication, I use Kroil or Break Free sparingly.  If it requires 
grease, I use the synthetic gun grease that comes in a plunger 
applicator.  I think it is sold as shooter's choice.


Steve WA9JML

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[drakelist] VR Tube Failure

2005-12-26 Thread Steve Berg


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This is only tangentially related to Drakes since it concerns a 
Hallicrafters TO keyer, but perhaps someone here on the list can give me 
some ideas.  It appears that the OB2 VR tube has gone to its ancestors. 
 The OA2 seems to be fine, but the appearance of the former is darkened 
and shows signs of heat.  Is there a failure mode for these tubes?  In 
40+ years of using tube equipment, I have never seen one of these quit 
before.  I have checked out the other components, and nothing else 
appears to be burned.  I do not yet have another OB2 to put in there to 
test it out.


73,

Steve WA9JML


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[drakelist] 2B vs. R4B

2005-12-06 Thread Steve Berg


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How do the 2B selectivity curves compare with the R4B curves?  I'm new 
to Drake equipment and thought that the 4 series used crystal filters. 
A thread here now tells me that this is not the case.  Also, how well do 
the 2B receivers work with Q multipliers like the 2BQ and the Heathkit 
series?  I use my 2B with a Gonset GSB-100 exciter, probably heresy on 
this list, but they work well together on both CW and SSB from my 
limited experience.


73,

Steve WA9JML

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[drakelist] 2B Knobs

2005-11-24 Thread Steve Berg


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I have a 2B with some non-original knobs that obscure the screenings on 
the front panel.  I know that the original ones are unobtainable, but 
wonder if anyone had found replacements that fit properly and look okay. 
 Any pointers to some decent replacement knobs?


TNX,

Steve WA9JML

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