Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Ken, Thanks so much for those links. I had been looking for a source of similar brushes, and the D-100L small bottle so I could meet the minimum sales, and MCM seems to have all the things I have been looking for. I bought from them for years when I was in the school business, not sure why I don't think of them more often for my private purchases. 73, Don, WB5HAK___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
I have an HP VTVM and when I first got it, the range switch seemed erratic. I made the mistake of liberally applying De-Oxit to the switch and boy, it got really erratic after that. It took 2 or 3 days of leaving it outside in the summer sun to get the switch to dry out and it's been great ever since but a very little bit goes a very long way. I learned about De-Oxit from an HP service guy only back then it was called Cramolin and came in a small bottle as a liquid. He would take a wooden Q-Tip, dip it in the bottle and brush it on computer card edge contacts, and then wipe it off! He claimed you only needed the very thinnest of films to insure a good contact. I thought he was BS'ing me but have since learned my lesson. Steve KD2ED In a message dated 12/23/2011 10:19:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wa2...@gmail.com writes: In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also use the brushes listed below. A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way. These brushes are great for cleaning 7 9 pin tube sockets: _http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxab rush-cleaners-wide/872rn/_ (http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/) These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger tube sockets, etc: _http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288_ (http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288) Ken WA2LBI On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli _dennis.monticelli@gmail.com_ (mailto:dennis.montice...@gmail.com) wrote: I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff because the latter is mostly carrier. So allow a little extra time before powering up, especially with pots. A few hours should have been enough, so it seems that you applied too much. I almost always use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets. Instead I apply the DeOxit to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning. The Q tip then does double duty of applicator and scrubber. This works really well for wafer switches and tube pins. For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is coated with DeOxit. Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber. The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of oxides with this method. Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you won't see any red pooling. With DeOxit a little goes a very long way. Mild scrubbing with a rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically removes the dissolved oxides. Dennis AE6C On 12/23/11, _yash@aol.com_ (mailto:y...@aol.com) _yash@aol.com_ (mailto:y...@aol.com) wrote: Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use. everybody have a Merry Christmas dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list _Drakelist@zerobeat.net_ (mailto:Drakelist@zerobeat.net) _http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist_
[Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Dale, I had a somewhat similar experience. I hadn't written, as I was reluctant to badmouth the De-oxit, as that seems to be the cleaner/lubricant of choice with the Drake crowd. I just figured it must be something else, and it probably is. I got some of the tiny pink $3 tubes (D-100L) at hamvention to see what all the crowing was about. My R-4A would cut-out on 40 intermitantly, but rocking the bandswitch would restore operation. It had been ~5 years since I had cleaned and lubed it with Blue Shower cleaner and lubed with Blue Stuff for tuners. I very carefully cleaned the bandswitch with Q-tips and alcohol, then lubed very sparing with De-Oxit on a Q-tip. I was very careful to avoid leaving cotton fibers in the switch mechanism. When I powered up the next day I had lost sensitivity according to the S-meter (signals from antenna as well as calibrator were reduced from S9 or ten over 9 to S5-S7). I checked for lose tubes, etc., but found no cause. I rechecked the sensitivity adjustment, but no soap. I had begun experiencing audio hum, so while I had the radio opened, I re-caped the three sections of the electrolytic can at the same time as I cleaned the bandswitch. The hum do go away, and I looked for any big DC changes (due to the re-cap) that might throw things off, but didn't see that. I have been unable to conclude that I have AGC problems, which is what I might first expect. One good thing, my 40mtr xtal osc. circuit works better than ever. It has always been iffy, and I usually used the FS-4 when I was on 40 for that reason. I will let you know if I figure anything out. Suggestions welcome, although I realize this isn't much to go on. My first second, and third assumptions were that I disturbed something to cause my problem. This is my first experience with De-Oxit. I am quite experienced with these types of radio repair. I've tried to imagine what I disturbed and check that, but to no avail so far. Working at a relaxed pace, KB8BKU, Darryl in Dayton ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Dale, I don't know what is the root of your R-4A problem but from your discription I doubt it was unevaporated DeOxit. One thing DeOxit cannot fix is wafer switches that are no longer in good alignment or where the wipers have lost their pressure contact.. DeOxit takes care of surface oxides, but not mechanical issues. Dennis AE6C On 12/24/11, kb8bku kb8...@woh.rr.com wrote: Dale, I had a somewhat similar experience. I hadn't written, as I was reluctant to badmouth the De-oxit, as that seems to be the cleaner/lubricant of choice with the Drake crowd. I just figured it must be something else, and it probably is. I got some of the tiny pink $3 tubes (D-100L) at hamvention to see what all the crowing was about. My R-4A would cut-out on 40 intermitantly, but rocking the bandswitch would restore operation. It had been ~5 years since I had cleaned and lubed it with Blue Shower cleaner and lubed with Blue Stuff for tuners. I very carefully cleaned the bandswitch with Q-tips and alcohol, then lubed very sparing with De-Oxit on a Q-tip. I was very careful to avoid leaving cotton fibers in the switch mechanism. When I powered up the next day I had lost sensitivity according to the S-meter (signals from antenna as well as calibrator were reduced from S9 or ten over 9 to S5-S7). I checked for lose tubes, etc., but found no cause. I rechecked the sensitivity adjustment, but no soap. I had begun experiencing audio hum, so while I had the radio opened, I re-caped the three sections of the electrolytic can at the same time as I cleaned the bandswitch. The hum do go away, and I looked for any big DC changes (due to the re-cap) that might throw things off, but didn't see that. I have been unable to conclude that I have AGC problems, which is what I might first expect. One good thing, my 40mtr xtal osc. circuit works better than ever. It has always been iffy, and I usually used the FS-4 when I was on 40 for that reason. I will let you know if I figure anything out. Suggestions welcome, although I realize this isn't much to go on. My first second, and third assumptions were that I disturbed something to cause my problem. This is my first experience with De-Oxit. I am quite experienced with these types of radio repair. I've tried to imagine what I disturbed and check that, but to no avail so far. Working at a relaxed pace, KB8BKU, Darryl in Dayton ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Not sure if any of the threads have mentioned this, but I like the DeOxit Pen. I think it is lower concentration, and works espcially well on tube pins. Mark N5KAE From: scpmil...@aol.com scpmil...@aol.com To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Sent: Sat, December 24, 2011 8:55:37 AM Subject: Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit I have an HP VTVM and when I first got it, the range switch seemed erratic. I made the mistake of liberally applying De-Oxit to the switch and boy, it got really erratic after that. It took 2 or 3 days of leaving it outside in the summer sun to get the switch to dry out and it's been great ever since but a very little bit goes a very long way. I learned about De-Oxit from an HP service guy only back then it was called Cramolin and came in a small bottle as a liquid. He would take a wooden Q-Tip, dip it in the bottle and brush it on computer card edge contacts, and then wipe it off! He claimed you only needed the very thinnest of films to insure a good contact. I thought he was BS'ing me but have since learned my lesson. Steve KD2ED In a message dated 12/23/2011 10:19:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wa2...@gmail.com writes: In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also use the brushes listed below. A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way. These brushes are great for cleaning 7 9 pin tube sockets: http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/ These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger tube sockets, etc: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288 Ken WA2LBI On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com wrote: I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff because the latter is mostly carrier. So allow a little extra time before powering up, especially with pots. A few hours should have been enough, so it seems that you applied too much. I almost always use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets. Instead I apply the DeOxit to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning. The Q tip then does double duty of applicator and scrubber. This works really well for wafer switches and tube pins. For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is coated with DeOxit. Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber. The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of oxides with this method. Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you won't see any red pooling. With DeOxit a little goes a very long way. Mild scrubbing with a rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically removes the dissolved oxides. Dennis AE6C On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote: Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use. everybody have a Merry Christmas dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
I still have a bottle of Cramolin and can attest that you only need a minuscule amount... Steve Wedge, W1ES/4 I swear by my life, and my love of it, that I will never live for the sake of another man, nor ask another man to live for mine. -Ayn Rand. All my computers have my signature with various pearls of wisdom appended thereto. From: scpmil...@aol.com Sent: Saturday, December 24, 2011 9:55 AM To: drakelist@zerobeat.net Subject: Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit I have an HP VTVM and when I first got it, the range switch seemed erratic. I made the mistake of liberally applying De-Oxit to the switch and boy, it got really erratic after that. It took 2 or 3 days of leaving it outside in the summer sun to get the switch to dry out and it's been great ever since but a very little bit goes a very long way. I learned about De-Oxit from an HP service guy only back then it was called Cramolin and came in a small bottle as a liquid. He would take a wooden Q-Tip, dip it in the bottle and brush it on computer card edge contacts, and then wipe it off! He claimed you only needed the very thinnest of films to insure a good contact. I thought he was BS'ing me but have since learned my lesson. Steve KD2ED In a message dated 12/23/2011 10:19:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, wa2...@gmail.com writes: In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also use the brushes listed below. A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way. These brushes are great for cleaning 7 9 pin tube sockets: http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/ These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger tube sockets, etc: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288 Ken WA2LBI On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com wrote: I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff because the latter is mostly carrier. So allow a little extra time before powering up, especially with pots. A few hours should have been enough, so it seems that you applied too much. I almost always use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets. Instead I apply the DeOxit to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning. The Q tip then does double duty of applicator and scrubber. This works really well for wafer switches and tube pins. For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is coated with DeOxit. Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber. The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of oxides with this method. Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you won't see any red pooling. With DeOxit a little goes a very long way. Mild scrubbing with a rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically removes the dissolved oxides. Dennis AE6C On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote: Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand
[Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use. everybody have a Merry Christmas dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Dale I rarely use Deoxit in tube sockets unless I have reason to believe the sockets have oxidized and are causing issues. If you do use it in tube sockets its best to dip a round toothpick in Deoxit and insert that into the individual sockets, giving it several turns. I have also applied Deoxit directly to the tube pins themselves with a cotton swab then installed the tube in/out of the socket several times. I have never had a problem in almost 20 years of using Deoxit. You have to be careful in high impendence circuits involving tube sockets, you’ll create shorts. 73, Gary___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff because the latter is mostly carrier. So allow a little extra time before powering up, especially with pots. A few hours should have been enough, so it seems that you applied too much. I almost always use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets. Instead I apply the DeOxit to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning. The Q tip then does double duty of applicator and scrubber. This works really well for wafer switches and tube pins. For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is coated with DeOxit. Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber. The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of oxides with this method. Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you won't see any red pooling. With DeOxit a little goes a very long way. Mild scrubbing with a rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically removes the dissolved oxides. Dennis AE6C On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote: Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use. everybody have a Merry Christmas dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
How I learned to be paranoid with cleaning agents: When I was a mere teen-ager, I decided to clean the mode switch in my HW-101 with some contact cleaner that my brother had brought home from work. I hosed the switch down well, waited a few minutes, and turned the rig on. The mode switch smoked. Literally. Fortunately , the HW-101 was still in production at that time, and I was able to get a new switch quickly and cheap. We don't have that luxury today. I learned an important lesson that day. 73 -Jim NU0C On Fri, 23 Dec 2011 12:44:03 -0500, Curt wrote: I do the same as Garyapply small amounts to the pins...easier to see how much you are applying...rather than putting it down the sockets. On 12/23/2011 12:19 PM, Gary Poland wrote: You have to be careful in high impendence circuits involving tube sockets, you'll create shorts. -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
Is the lesson, never trust your older brother? Bob K6GGO How I learned to be paranoid with cleaning agents: When I was a mere teen-ager, I decided to clean the mode switch in my HW-101 with some contact cleaner that my brother had brought home from work. I hosed the switch down well, waited a few minutes, and turned the rig on. The mode switch smoked. Literally. Fortunately , the HW-101 was still in production at that time, and I was able to get a new switch quickly and cheap. We don't have that luxury today. I learned an important lesson that day. 73 -Jim NU0C ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
On Fri, 23 Dec 2011 10:46:19 -0800, Robert Fish wrote: Is the lesson, never trust your older brother? No, I already knew that one ;) Although he pobably should have learned to never let stuff like that lay around where I could find it. 73 -Jim -- Ham Radio NU0C Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A. TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time! Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will learn for a lifetime. HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/ http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney http://www.nebraskaghosts.org ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
Re: [Drakelist] problem with deoxit
In addition to the wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning mentioned by Dennis, AE6C, I also use the brushes listed below. A drop of DeoxIT on either goes a long way. These brushes are great for cleaning 7 9 pin tube sockets: http://www.gumbrand.com/interdental-brushes/products/gum-go-betweens-proxabrush-cleaners-wide/872rn/ These brushes are good for cleaning RCA connectors, 8 pin and other larger tube sockets, etc: http://www.mcmelectronics.com/product/CAIG-LABORATORIES-AB-50-/200-288 Ken WA2LBI On Fri, Dec 23, 2011 at 13:06, Dennis Monticelli dennis.montice...@gmail.com wrote: I have found that 100% DeOxit dries more slowly than the 5% stuff because the latter is mostly carrier. So allow a little extra time before powering up, especially with pots. A few hours should have been enough, so it seems that you applied too much. I almost always use the 100% stuff but I avoid droplets. Instead I apply the DeOxit to one of those wooden stemmed tightly woven Q tips that are made especially for electrical cleaning. The Q tip then does double duty of applicator and scrubber. This works really well for wafer switches and tube pins. For socket pins, I use a wooden toothpick that is coated with DeOxit. Once again it serves as applicator and scrubber. The Q tip and toothpick end up with a satisfying dark coloration of oxides with this method. Sufaces will glisten after cleaning but you won't see any red pooling. With DeOxit a little goes a very long way. Mild scrubbing with a rough absorbant surface such as wood or tightly woven Q tip physically removes the dissolved oxides. Dennis AE6C On 12/23/11, y...@aol.com y...@aol.com wrote: Today I put a totally dead R-4a on the bench,replaced the fuse and off she went. The rig was fairly clean considering its age. The rig lit up and got some audio out and all functions seemed to basically work. Cleaned the chassis of dust ,damp cloth and proceeded to pull all the tubes and test,all were good. I took a emery board and cleaned all tube pins then wiped the pins with Deoxit and dried with a cloth, also cleaned all the wafer switch contacts with deoxit,using the tiny needle bottle being VERY careful to keep the deoxit to the very small amount, also cleaned all the pots with the deoxit spray for pots. Any way let the rig sit for a few hours working all the switch's and pots. Reassembled the rig and powered up. The radio lite up and that was about all ,nothing seemed to work, rechecked the tube install,all correct, put back on the bench flipped the rig over and ALL the tube sockets and wafer switch's looked like they were flooded with deoxit. I was careful to use as Little as you could of the deoxit,while cleaning everything. I then proceeded to clean EVERYTHING with 100 %alcohol, tube pins,sockets, all wafer switch's and pots,made sure everything was dry, using a hair drier. Put the rig back together and turned on,the R4A works as well as my B line receiver,even without a alignment. Has there been a change in Deoxit? I have used this procedure on lots of Boat anchors and up till now always worked fine. Can't believe the TINY amount I used, crawled all over everywhere I didn't want it to go. Unless someone else had used some other substance to clean before me and the the deoxit ,I haven't got a clue. Anyone else run across anything like this? The deoxit was brand new a week ago. I think I will star with the 100% alcohol,like I used to use. everybody have a Merry Christmas dale wt4t ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist ___ Drakelist mailing list Drakelist@zerobeat.net http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
