Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

2012-02-20 Thread David Box

Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.


The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.


The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point shift which was done by placing 2 5.6 V zeners in 
series with filament center tap.  This has been working fine now for 8 
years.


73 de K5MWR


Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:26:18 -0800 (PST)
From: GALE STEWARDk...@yahoo.com
To: Dino Papask...@cox.net, Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
Message-ID:
1329751578.83763.yahoomail...@web110514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
A timely question about the L4/L7 bleeder resistors. I recently had an issue 
with one of my L4PS supplies. It turned out to be a bad cap which I replaced. 
I'm going to install a Heathkit Shop board eventually but I wanted to get the 
amp back on line for use in the ARRL CW DX contest. While the supply was open I 
checked the 50W bleeder resistors and found them both open. I replaced both 
with new Ohmite resistors.


Sunday morning at about 1230Z, one of the new bleeders failed in dramatic 
fashion by lighting up like a 100W bulb. I quickly swapped in another L4PS and 
continued on. Last night after the contest I opened up the failed supply to 
find that the resistors had failed but all other components were all OK (no bad 
caps, etc.).

I replaced the failed bleeder (again) and all was again normal.

I'm still quite puzzled as to why this resistor failed in the first place.

GL with the project.

73, Stew K3ND



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

2012-02-20 Thread K9sqg
As a side note, a properly wired L4, L4B, or L7 power supply chassis is ALWAYS 
at ground potential for safety reasons.  The safety ground from the outlet goes 
directly to the chassis of the power supply, whether or not the RF deck is 
plugged into it or not.


A number of years ago, there was a production flaw in the Dale resistors 
(pitting, gaps, etc. ) in the ceramic that led to flashover on the ends of the 
resistor.



Nit:  the L4 power supply used two 100K 50 watt resistors while L4B/L7 supplies 
typically used 50K 50 watt resistors.







-Original Message-
From: David Box david_...@comcast.net
To: k3nd k...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds


Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.

The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.

The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point shift which was done by placing 2 5.6 V zeners in 
series with filament center tap.  This has been working fine now for 8 
years.

73 de K5MWR


Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:26:18 -0800 (PST)
From: GALE STEWARDk...@yahoo.com
To: Dino Papask...@cox.net,   Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
Message-ID:
1329751578.83763.yahoomail...@web110514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
A timely question about the L4/L7 bleeder resistors. I recently had an issue 
with one of my L4PS supplies. It turned out to be a bad cap which I replaced. 
I'm going to install a Heathkit Shop board eventually but I wanted to get the 
amp back on line for use in the ARRL CW DX contest. While the supply was open I 
checked the 50W bleeder resistors and found them both open. I replaced both 
with 
new Ohmite resistors.


Sunday morning at about 1230Z, one of the new bleeders failed in dramatic 
fashion by lighting up like a 100W bulb. I quickly swapped in another L4PS and 
continued on. Last night after the contest I opened up the failed supply to 
find 
that the resistors had failed but all other components were all OK (no bad 
caps, 
etc.).

I replaced the failed bleeder (again) and all was again normal.

I'm still quite puzzled as to why this resistor failed in the first place.

GL with the project.

73, Stew K3ND



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

2012-02-20 Thread David Box

  
  
Would agree with you about the input AC power, but if you look at
the high voltage the high voltage return side is not tied to the PS
chassis but runs to Pin 6 of the power connector and then in the
amplifier where it is only tied directly to chassis when the
interlock switch is engaged. The interlock switch also shorts the
HV to amplifier chassis ground. 

Under normal operation the high voltage return feeds through the
plate current meter and to the center-tap of the filament
transformer with a 1ohm 10W resistor to ground, this 1 ohm resistor
forms the voltage necessary for the grid current measurement as the
grids are tied to chassis and the voltage across this resistor is
only due to grid current. This metering arrangement for both plate
current and grid require that the HV return not be tied to chassis
in either the PS or amplifier. 

Pin 7 of the power connector is used to tie the PS and Amplifier
chassis together. So when you are using just the supply the chassis
is at AC power ground but the high voltage return is floating with
respect to chassis. With the cable connected to the amplifier there
is the meter resistance in series with 1 ohm resistor to ground
which is the change that does result in the PS chassis referenced to
HV and therefore you can arc the bleeders if you do something stupid
like I did of not providing a good HV isolation mount for the
bleeders.

Playing with these units is not something to be done without a lot
of prior thought and making sure you really understand the entire
circuit and safety precautions needed. I was probably lucky in not
destroying the meter and other parts.

73 de K5MWR


On 2/20/2012 11:08 AM, K9sqg wrote:
As a side note, a properly wired L4, L4B, or L7
  power supply chassis is ALWAYS at ground potential for safety
  reasons. The safety ground from the outlet goes directly to
  the chassis of the power supply, whether or not the RF deck is
  plugged into it or not.

  
A number of years ago, there was a
production flaw in the Dale resistors (pitting, gaps, etc. )
in the ceramic that led to flashover on the ends of the
resistor.
  

  
Nit: the L4 power supply used two
100K 50 watt resistors while L4B/L7 supplies typically used
50K 50 watt resistors.
  

  

  

  
  -Original Message-
From: David Box david_...@comcast.net
To: k3nd k...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds


  Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.

The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.

The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point

Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

2012-02-20 Thread W4AWM
To be on the safe side, bond the amplifier chassis and the PS chassis  
together with a suitable length of shield from a piece of coax or similar 
cable. 
 It certainly makes a big difference with the Hallicrafters SR-2000  
Hurricane and P-2000 power supply. It is probably not a bad idea with any  two 
piece rig either transceiver or amplifier.
 
73,
 
John,  W4AWM___
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Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

2012-02-20 Thread David Box

  
  
John

There is a ground wire in the cable that connects to pin 7 on both
PS and amplifier that ties the chassis together. As I understand
the metering system of the L4B/L7 you will always have the high
voltage return sitting slightly above chassis due to the grid
current through the 1 ohm resistor. Thats not much but, you cannot
tie the HV return directly to chassis or will lose the metering
based on my understanding. 

Where the real danger can come is if working on the PS
independently, you can get in trouble if you make the assumption
that the HV return is grounded. Actually when working on the PS you
can use a jumper to short the HV return to the chassis which would
probably be safer in that TEST configuration and allow you to catch
any issues with voltage breakdown due to wire routing or component
placement.

Playing with 3000 volts at these current levels is a full contact
sport and not something for casual or inexperienced operators. This
stuff KILLS.

73 de K5MWR

On 2/20/2012 7:58 PM, w4...@aol.com wrote:

  
  
  
To be on the safe side, bond the amplifier chassis and the
  PS chassis together with a suitable length of shield from a
  piece of coax or similar cable. It certainly makes a big
  difference with the Hallicrafters SR-2000 Hurricaneand P-2000
  power supply. It is probably not a bad idea with any two piece
  rig either transceiver or amplifier.

73,

John, W4AWM
  

  


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