Re: [Elecraft] dB

2004-10-13 Thread G3VVT
There you go Jim shooting yourself in the foot straight off by referring  
your dB to power!
 
> and I increase my transmitter power by 4:1 (6 dB) 
 
Of course the two entities voltage and power are mathematically related,  but 
unless you say to what reference you are using, they can be somewhat  
meaningless. In the 17 years I spent in the Cable TV industry pre the advent of 
 
satellite technology, the dB was always related to voltage at 75 ohms and was  
understood to be so. The only occasion I remember using dB related to power was 
 
when using multiple phased antenna arrays to work out the total output as the  
gain was increased by a ratio of 3dB in power every time the number of 
separate  arrays was doubled.
 
With a sideways shift into telecoms for the last 20+ years I had to  start 
thinking about dB related to power where 4 times gain or  loss when related to 
power is 6dB as you say. The same 4 times gain or  loss is 12dB when related to 
voltage as used in Cable TV. Irrespective  of how the measuring systems for 
the two industries work, they are  calibrated in dB relative to the system you 
are working with and as such are not  directly compatible, thus making a 
reference when referring to dB gain or loss  essential.
 
Perhaps a topic to be discussed further off the Elecraft Reflector if  needed.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filters

2004-10-13 Thread Mike S
At 09:57 PM 10/13/2004, Joe - aa4nn wrote...
>I wish there was a K2 button you could push to see what filter is active. 

Push AGC and XFIL together. 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Filters

2004-10-13 Thread Kurt Cramer
Joe, push XFIL and AGC at the same time and you'll see what you want to
know.

73, Kurt

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[Elecraft] K2 Filters

2004-10-13 Thread Joe - aa4nn
I wish there was a K2 button you could push to see what filter is active.  As 
it is, any filter button you push advances to the next filter so you are left 
with the knowledge of the filter you had been using, so you push the button 
three more times to get back to where you were when you wanted to know where 
you were in the first place.  k2 is a great radio, tho, I love it.

73, Joe, aa4nn

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Re: [Elecraft] One more re:Atomic Clocks

2004-10-13 Thread Joe - aa4nn
Whatever you'all do, don't buy TWO atomic clocks.  Otherwise you'll never 
know what time it is.  I have two MFJ Radio Controlled clocks that after two 
years have finally synced in with UTC but even now they are two seconds 
apart.  Go figger.  You can manually set the Hours on these clocks but not 
the minutes & seconds.

73, Joe, aa4nn



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Re: [Elecraft] Serial port keying via the K2 (Logger32)

2004-10-13 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 19:24:17 -0400, john wrote:

>I wonder if other K2 owners (with the KI02 option of course!)
>are using computer keying?  If so, did you implement 
>it using the DTR or PTT method via the serial port, or 
>via the parallel port?  

I have been using DTR keying with WriteLog quite successfully. Depending on 
your 
antenna system and the power level at which you are operating, it may be 
necessary to 
rebuild the serial interface cable using shielded twisted pair cable. It also 
helps to correct 
the pin 1 problems at both ends of the serial keying cable by connecting the 
shield to the 
DB9 shell, not the so-called "signal ground."  

The condition under which I had to take these measures  are when I use a long 
wire that 
puts a lot of RF in my shack and have my K2/100 fired up.  (I do this on 160 
and 80, and it 
gets out pretty well). This would probably NOT be an issue with a good resonant 
antenna 
30+ feet from the shack and fed by a reasonably well matched line. 


Jim Brown  K9YC


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RE: [Elecraft] Serial port keying via the K2 (Logger32)

2004-10-13 Thread James C. Hall, MD
Hi John:

During the last couple of Field Days, using the K2/100, we used the N3FJP FD
software and successfully used the serial port for excellent keying. There
was really no problem doing this - you just have to build a simple interface
in the head of the serial plug. There are a few ways to do this as I'm sure
you know. I used a two transistor, two resistor interface so as to use the
program or a keyer or just fill in with the paddles (and on-board keyer).
I'm sure the limitations of port availability will determine many things.
For us, we used a USB-serial interface. Others will use the 'printer' port.
BTW, the N3FJP software also allows this.

73, Jamie
WB4YDL

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of john
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2004 6:24 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Serial port keying via the K2 (Logger32) 

I wonder if other K2 owners (with the KI02 option of course!)
are using computer keying?  If so, did you implement 
it using the DTR or PTT method via the serial port, or 
via the parallel port?  Are there advantages to one method over another?
Thanks!
John K5MO


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[Elecraft] Serial port keying via the K2 (Logger32)

2004-10-13 Thread john
I wonder if other K2 owners (with the KI02 option of course!)
are using computer keying?  If so, did you implement 
it using the DTR or PTT method via the serial port, or 
via the parallel port?  Are there advantages to one method over another?
Thanks!
John K5MO

---

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Re: [Elecraft] One more re:Atomic Clocks

2004-10-13 Thread rrennard
I don't have enough pockets for another device, so I just use the alarm in my 
Verizon phone.  Their CDMA network is synched to GPS, so most of the time the 
alarm rings within seconds of when it is set to go off.  My awakening is 
usually less precise...

N7WY
> 
> From: Daniel Reynolds <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2004/10/13 Wed PM 10:11:56 GMT
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] One more re:Atomic Clocks
> 
> The newest and smallest Oregon Scientific Atomic Alarm Clock can be had for as
> little as $6-7 (www.froogle.com ... search for RM982A - click on Price: Low to
> High). This clock has the same features as my little RM103A - except the
> 'indiglo' style light - although the small manual page from Oregon 
> Scientific's
> web site suggests that it does have a back-lit display (punch the snooze 
> button
> on top for the light).
> 
> - Daniel / AA0NI
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] RS sale items (more)

2004-10-13 Thread Earl W Cunningham
Michael, N4NMR wrote:

"They (RS) had a special sale on the RS version of an Atomic portable
alarm clock. Only $20.  And it is a nice size for packing or for on the
desk.  Normally $30, I think.  Nice clock with super lighting.  Number is
63-964.

Only drawback is that you can't set it for UTC."
==
>From time to time WalMart sells an "atomic" desktop alarm clock made by
Oregon Scientific (model RM103A).  It can be set to display UTC with no
problem and it's ideal for the ham shack  I bought one for $11.98.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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[Elecraft] One more re:Atomic Clocks

2004-10-13 Thread Daniel Reynolds
The newest and smallest Oregon Scientific Atomic Alarm Clock can be had for as
little as $6-7 (www.froogle.com ... search for RM982A - click on Price: Low to
High). This clock has the same features as my little RM103A - except the
'indiglo' style light - although the small manual page from Oregon Scientific's
web site suggests that it does have a back-lit display (punch the snooze button
on top for the light).

- Daniel / AA0NI

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Re: [Elecraft] RS sale items (more)

2004-10-13 Thread Daniel Reynolds
I picked up a small bedside LCD atomic alarm clock with Indigo style lighting
about 2 years ago at WalMart for about $10-15. It is silver with black and runs
off a single AA battery. I am able to adjust it for UTC, but I must readjust it
with each time change. I think it was made by Oregon Scientific.

Here's one just like it for $17.
http://donrowe.com/oregon_scientific/rm103a.html

When I figured out the model number, I used google.com and froogled for RM103A.
I found this same model for $13.
http://www.buyreliant.com/oregon/rm103a.htm

The RM103A lets me set it to 24 hour mode.

Here's another one I stumbled upon for $8 - although I can't vouch as to
whether or not it will allow for UTC time.
http://www.softwareandstuff.com/CES10290.html

To keep this post On-Topic ... I find that the RM103A clock fits fairly nicely
next to my portable digital thermometer, MH2 mike, and Palm-key when I pack my
K2 in its aluminum tool case.

- Daniel / AA0NI

--- Michael Bower N4NMR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> They had a special sale on the RS version of an Atomic portable alarm clock.
> Only $20.  And it is a nice size for packing or for on the desk.  Normally
> $30, I think.  Nice clock with super lighting.  Number is 63-964.
> (www.radioshack.com didn't show it as a sale item (still shows $20) but the
> sign at the store did).  Only drawback is that you can't set it for UTC.
> Not a biggy in my mind.

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[Elecraft] RS sale items (more)

2004-10-13 Thread Michael Bower N4NMR
Last week I was at my friendly RS getting a new alarm clock.  Lost my old
one.

They had a special sale on the RS version of an Atomic portable alarm clock.
Only $20.  And it is a nice size for packing or for on the desk.  Normally
$30, I think.  Nice clock with super lighting.  Number is 63-964.
(www.radioshack.com didn't show it as a sale item (still shows $20) but the
sign at the store did).  Only drawback is that you can't set it for UTC.
Not a biggy in my mind.

They also had a special on batteries.  Well, the special on batteries is not
that super but the batteries come in a nifty case.  It is touted as a can
holder that says it will hold 4 cans of soda or whatever.  But I didn't see
it that way.  I saw it as a nifty carrier for something like the PAC-12 or
MP-1.  It is bright red (so it is easy to find) and has a shoulder/carrying
strap.  Haven't tried it yet but looks like it should work great.

Price on the battery pack/cooler says $20 but the sale was for $10.

Michael N4NMR


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[Elecraft] dB

2004-10-13 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 13 Oct 2004 07:27:52 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>3dB gain reference to what?
> 
>Without a reference decibel values are meaningless. 

Horse puckey.   Without a reference they do not tell you the voltage or power 
in a circuit, 
but they can certainly tell you the differences between two voltages or powers, 
and that 
can be QUITE meaningful. For example, you are in the UK and I am in Chicago, 
and I 
increase my transmitter power by 4:1 (6 dB) and change nothing else. My signal 
at your 
location will get 6 dB stronger, independent of the reference used by the 
voltmeter you 
choose to measure them, and the signal to noise will also improve by 6 dB, 
again, 
independent of that voltmeter's reference. If you must have a reference it is 
the signal 
before I increased by power!  

Once you use the word "gain" you make dB quite meaningful. The most formal 
definition 
of gain using dB is for power -- 10 * log (P2/P1), where P2 is the output power 
and P1 
is the input power. But if the impedance is the same for the two powers,  the 
gain in dB 
is 20 * log (V2/V1). BOTH of these expressions are VERY meaningful, and no 
reference must be defined!  Or, looking at it another way, P1 (or V1) is the 
reference. 

Also, many circuits operate as voltage amplifiers, where power is essentially 
insignificant. Thus it is also entirely correct to speak of the voltage gain in 
dB, and that 
is also 20 * log (V2/V1). And, again, no reference level need be defined. 

Further, if we wanted to MEASURE the gain in dB, we could measure the voltages 
and 
do the math, or we could use a voltmeter calibrated to ANY voltage reference 
for dB, 
subtract the input voltage in dB from the output voltage in dB, and that would 
be the 
gain. Again, the reference is unimportant (so long as we don't change streams 
in mid-
horse). 

On the other hand, if we want to measure power gain, we would, indeed, need to 
consider the resistance at both input and output. 

While the telecom industry was the first to define the Bel and did so in terms 
of power, 
virtually all modern instrumentation that gives a readout in dB with respect to 
any 
reference is REALLY a voltmeter. That voltmeter may include a load resistor 
(with a 
switch to remove it from the circuit), or it may not. 

Hope this helps. 




Jim Brown  K9YC


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[Elecraft] Curious behaviour of XV50 LEDs

2004-10-13 Thread harryweston

Hi

I have completed construction of an XV50, in fact I finished 
it a while ago, and it all seems ok except for one thing. The 
Tx power LED display only lights one at a time, even though I 
have GRPH=BAR and OPT=PERF selected on the K2. It does the 
same if GRPH=DOT is selected, too.

Is this possibly due to an assembly fault? If so I'd be glad 
of an indication of where to look. I have done very careful 
inspections of my soldering and can see no dodgy joint that 
may be the culprit. Is there perhaps one connection that may 
cause this, or any diagnostic procedure that I can follow to 
trace the fault?

I am using it as the only XV connected to my K2. the K2 
software is displayed as '2.01H 1.02', and the XV50 U1 has a 
label with 1.6e on it. I have K2 #2378 (without the 100W amp 
etc) with the A to B updates and K160RX, KNB2, KIO2, KDSP2, 
KSB2 and KAT2 installed. An external meter shows that the 
power going out to the antenna is what it should be according 
to the one lit LED.

I must have done something silly to get this effect, but I am 
flummoxed. Has anyone else experienced this phenomenon? I've 
seen a lot of problems solved on this reflector, and hope 
that the kind and knowledgeable people out there may be able 
to help with this one.

I normally read any Email -- it's almost only this reflector, 
in digest form -- once a week on Sunday evening, so please 
forgive delays in replying to any response to my plea.

73 all 

Harry Weston M0SOP

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[Elecraft] Mojo!

2004-10-13 Thread Bert Craig
Woohoo!!! Long Island, NY to Dijon, France...with 3 Watts! I was very excited 
to work HI with 5 Watts some mos. back, and glad to feel likewise again last 
night. I didn't think I'd be able to be heard through the other stations 
calling Paul, F9KP.

There's something I feel is worth mentioning. When he came back with a partial 
call sign followed by a ?, the freq went dead silent and I was allowed to 
repeat my call a few times completely in the clear...very kewl!

I did not use the K1 for this one. Instead, I used it's kissing cousin...a 
NorCal 40 A.

Vy 73 de Bert
WA2SI
FISTS #9384
QRP ARCI #11782
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: BL1 Balun

2004-10-13 Thread Charles Greene

Joe, Todd, Group,

It's time for me to get on my soap box again.

The BL1 is a great balun, I haven't seen a better one on the market so the 
answer is not to find a better one, you can't.  It should take 100 watts 
and not overheat, even when running into a SWR of 10:1, provided its load 
impedance is not too high.  What is happening when the balun heats up is 
that you are did consider the impedance of its place in the feed line, and 
it is too high for the balun.  Actually, the impedance on the open wire 
feed line varies from near zero to several thousand ohms in the distance of 
a 1/4 wave on the feed line.  For example, take a full wave dipole on 40, 
135' long, and feed it with open wire line.  The impedance at 1/4 
wavelength from the antenna is near zero.  Go another 1/4 wavelength along 
the feed line, and it is several thousand ohms, an impossible situation for 
any balun.  So you need to cut a length off the feed line, in this case on 
the order of 8', and your impedance will be somewhere in-between.  A balun 
will work there but will not work when the impedance is several thousand 
ohms.  Remember, the impedance of the feed line repeats itself every 180 
degrees, or 1/2 wavelength.  Just because you are using a 450 ohm line 
doesn't mean the impedance is 450 ohms,  It depends upon the load at the 
antenna end and its length.  4:1 baluns will work into a SWR of up to 10:1, 
provided the impedance and voltage is not high.  For that matter so will a 
1:1 balun.  Moving along the feed line changes the voltage and impedance, 
but does not change the SWR.  How do you tell what the losses in a balun 
are?  On the BL1, and other small balun kits, feel the wires after you have 
been operating a few minutes.  If the balun feels hot or even warm to the 
touch, it is dissipating too much power, and you need to change the 
position in the feed line where you place it.  A good balun will run about 
94% efficient into a 7:1 SWR (my measurements) provided the impedance is 
not too high.  Losses of 6% at 100 watts will not melt the balun.  At a SWR 
of 1:1 the losses are half that, so a balun is not lossless, but 
manageable.  How do you cut the feed line?  There's a table on page 17 of 
Practical Wire Antennas, by John D Heys G3BDQ available from the ARRL, that 
shows lengths of 1/2 the antenna length plus feed line to avoid.  My 
experience is that when you avoid these lengths, you can use a balun.  It 
will amaze you :-)


73,  Chas, W1CG


At 02:20 PM 10/12/2004, Todd Fonstad wrote:

Joe, AA4NN, posted:

"With K2/100 100w out after two QSOs on 40m overall about 40 minutes the 
BL1 balun is quite hot to the touch. This is the first time I have used 
the BL1
with a CF Zepp. Amazing SWR 1:1 80m-10m, works great. I'm thinking I 
might  need to glue a heat sink on that toroid. Anybody done this or am I 
too much

QRO and heat is normal. hi"

I have used the BL-1 at both QRP and 100 watt levels on a couple 
of  ladder-line fed doublets designed for multi-band operation. If you are 
using the ATU, the 1:1 SWR you are observing is what the K2 is "seeing" 
courtesy of the tuner. The actual SWR presented to the balun may be very 
high. The heat you observed from your balun is wasted RF. My BL-1 has 
quickly heated, then saturated, using 100 watts into both 265' and 176' 
doublets on 160, 80, and 40 meters. It is fascinating, although dismaying, 
to see the SWR LEDs on the ATU rise from green (low SWR) to red (high SWR) 
in a matter of seconds as saturation occurs. I'll continue to use the BL-1 
at QRP levels but will "wind my own" more robust balun for QRO operation.


73
Todd
N9NE
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Re: [Elecraft] Question about K2's T7 windings

2004-10-13 Thread G3VVT
3dB gain reference to what?
 
Without a reference decibel values are meaningless. With voltage, 3db gain  
is a value greater by one half and is only applicable if the impedances  remain 
the same across the item of equipment you are measuring. When  referred to 
power, 3dB gain is greater by x 2 (double). Most  of the measurements carried 
out professionally in telecoms are  related to power and do have a specific 
reference such as dBm (reference to  1mW), etc. which makes life a whole lot 
easier. Traditionally in the Cable  TV industry the decibel is related to the 
voltage at 75 ohms.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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