Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread Jim Wiley

Bob -


I notice that you were associated closely with the GPS system at one time.


Do you know of a source for a GPS clock - that is to say, a clock only, 
with a fairly large digital display, preferably 24 hours, settable lo 
local or GMT.  The GPS positioning function would not be needed.  
Application:  Hamshack main clock.



I have one of the Heath GC-1000 "Most accurate clock" combination (HF) 
WWV / WWVH  receiver and clock, which works well, but someday it will 
croak.  When it does, parts are likely to be hard to obtain, and having 
a GPS driven system will eliminate the necessity for an outside HF 
antenna (the whip is inadequate up this way).



73

- Jim, KL7CC



Robert Rennard wrote:


Why not just use a cheap GPS receiver instead of a WWVB receiver.  It should
work anywhere in the world, and give time keeping accuracy better than 1
microsecond relative to UTC.  Most of the time location accuracy is around
10-30 meters, so equivalently the time error at a GPS receiver is 35 to 105
nanoseconds or so relative to GPS time that is maintained to within 100
nanoseconds of UTC.  If you want to see the past week's relative error, try
http://tycho.usno.navy.mil/gpstt.html.

The Sprint PCS and Verizon networks, and probably others, are synchronized
to GPS as well, but I have no source for the time keeping accuracy produced
by your connected wireless phone.

Bob Rennard, N7WY
USAF GPS Program Office class of 1978

- Original Message -
From: "David A. Belsley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 8:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding


 


Atomic Clocks are great additions to the shack.  But how, pray tell,
does one get them to work inside a house with aluminum siding when you
can't put it next to a window?  I believe WWVB is on 80KHz, which is
pretty low.  Can one couple them to an antenna?

thanks,

dave belsley, w1euy

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Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread Robert Rennard
Why not just use a cheap GPS receiver instead of a WWVB receiver.  It should
work anywhere in the world, and give time keeping accuracy better than 1
microsecond relative to UTC.  Most of the time location accuracy is around
10-30 meters, so equivalently the time error at a GPS receiver is 35 to 105
nanoseconds or so relative to GPS time that is maintained to within 100
nanoseconds of UTC.  If you want to see the past week's relative error, try
http://tycho.usno.navy.mil/gpstt.html.

The Sprint PCS and Verizon networks, and probably others, are synchronized
to GPS as well, but I have no source for the time keeping accuracy produced
by your connected wireless phone.

Bob Rennard, N7WY
USAF GPS Program Office class of 1978

- Original Message -
From: "David A. Belsley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 8:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding


> Atomic Clocks are great additions to the shack.  But how, pray tell,
> does one get them to work inside a house with aluminum siding when you
> can't put it next to a window?  I believe WWVB is on 80KHz, which is
> pretty low.  Can one couple them to an antenna?
>
> thanks,
>
> dave belsley, w1euy
>
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2005-01-08 Thread Kevin Rock

Good Evening All,
   Another week in the new year has passed.  We now have about 8 inches of 
snow with more on the way.  Hopefully I can free the 40 meter dipole from 
the clutches of the fir tree overhead.  It has drooped considerably under 
the snow load.  I may have to shovel the roof once I am up there.  But 
never fear I will attempt ECN/40.  Hopefully the CME of Friday will have 
caused the ionosphere to awaken.  But I do hope it has settled down a 
little after the jolt.


   The ladder line was supposed to peak out of the shack this week but 
other activities precluded that activity.  Too much time in front of the 
computer and too little time outside.  The snow is not helping things one 
bit.  I hope to hear as many folks as I can tomorrow with the help of 
whomever can assist me.  The East Coast was calling last week but I never 
heard you.  I am sorry.  Maybe one day I will become rich and put up a 
tower with a bigger RF catcher.  One can always hope :)


Please join us :
Monday z (Sunday 4pm PST) 14050 kHz
Monday 0300z (Sunday 7pm PST)  7045 kHz

Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for further details.  Thank 
you for the web space Dan.


No special requirements or exchanges necessary on ECN just check in and 
see what happens.

  Thank you for your support,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS


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Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread Stephen W. Kercel

Dave:

From the 1 callsign, I expect that you are located in New England. If so, 
you're on the ragged edge of the normal coverage of WWVB. It is likely that 
the location is giving you as much trouble as the metal siding.


Despite my 4 callsign, I am in New England (I live in Maine), and although 
my house is not metal-sided, my atomic clock (one of those solar powered 
MFJs with the big numbers) is located in the basement. What I have found is 
that the sync indication comes and goes. It often takes several days for 
the clock receiver to sync with WWVB. It will hold sync for a week or so at 
a time, but it occasionally drops out. However, I am in synch more often 
than not.


The resulting time reading is surely accurate enough for most ham purposes. 
When you lose sync after having acquired it, the cock loses accuracy, but 
very slowly. When I listen to the NCDXF/IARU beacons, they are always start 
at the beginning of the second as indicated on my atomic clock even if it 
has temporarily lost sync.


Personally, I would not recommend trying to modify the clock. In any case, 
before you start performing surgery on your clock, I offer a radical 
suggestion. Put the clock up in whatever position you want it to be for 
your ham operations, and just leave it. Do so for about a week. I suspect 
that there's enough signal leaking in through the door and window openings 
that the clock receiver will eventually (on the order of days) find the 
sync signal.


If you cannot get it to come into sync within a week, then you probably do 
need an outdoor antenna. I'm sure that many participants in this reflector 
could come up with a practical way to build a 60 kHz external antenna and 
hook it to your clock. If I were doing it, I would look for one of the 
commercially made antennas that are designed for the time servers that some 
computer networks use.


73,

Steve
AA4AK



At 11:03 PM 1/8/2005 -0500, you wrote:
Atomic Clocks are great additions to the shack.  But how, pray tell, does 
one get them to work inside a house with aluminum siding when you can't 
put it next to a window?  I believe WWVB is on 80KHz, which is pretty 
low.  Can one couple them to an antenna?


thanks,

dave belsley, w1euy

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Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread Augie Hansen
On 1/8/05 9:30 PM, "[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Anybody else on this reflector ever been to the WWV transmitter site? I was
> there circa 1992.

My daughter is a student at Colorado State Univ. in Fort Collins. Once in a
while when on trips to the school from Denver I make side trips to one or
two other important places: The impressive antenna farm and transmitters of
WWV, and the Budweiser Brewery for some samples of King of beers. Life is
good!

73,
Gus Hansen
KB0YH

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[Elecraft] An amazing manual and building procedure

2005-01-08 Thread Tim Logan
As I once again delve into building a K2 knowing little if anything 
about how they work I am again reminded of one of the truly amazing 
features of the K2 - the manaul(s) and building procedures. It takes a 
very "together" mind to create an assembly process that literally anyone 
can follow and even teach themselves to troubleshoot. The approach to 
"kitting" this radio is just as amazing as the capability of the 
resulting rig. Just had to say it once again! My compliments to Wayne, 
Eric, and I believe Lyle for such excellent manuals and organized 
building procedures!

73/Tim NZ7C
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Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 1/8/05 11:04:16 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> I believe WWVB is on 80KHz, 

60 kHz.

--

Anybody else on this reflector ever been to the WWV transmitter site? I was 
there circa 1992.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread Robert

Dave my house has aluminum siding and my atomic clocks work just fine.
There are some areas in North America where the signal may not be strong 
enough.  Anothing thing you might try is to wind a coil around the clock in 
behind and run an open lead so that there is coupling  to the clock antenna 
and more capture area.  It should not take much.  Note you're not connecting 
the coil to the antenna but allowing the coil to be in proximity to it.


Robert VE3RPF

- Original Message - 
From: "David A. Belsley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 11:03 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding


Atomic Clocks are great additions to the shack.  But how, pray tell, does 
one get them to work inside a house with aluminum siding when you can't 
put it next to a window?  I believe WWVB is on 80KHz, which is pretty low. 
Can one couple them to an antenna?


thanks,

dave belsley, w1euy

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[Elecraft] Atomic Clocks and Aluminum Siding

2005-01-08 Thread David A. Belsley
Atomic Clocks are great additions to the shack.  But how, pray tell, 
does one get them to work inside a house with aluminum siding when you 
can't put it next to a window?  I believe WWVB is on 80KHz, which is 
pretty low.  Can one couple them to an antenna?


thanks,

dave belsley, w1euy

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[Elecraft] Distortion on 80 M

2005-01-08 Thread Sylvain Dubois
Hi Malcom,

Can you please tell me what  was causing the distortion on 80 meters?
I seem to have the same problem...


Sylvain
VE2SQX
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[Elecraft] test

2005-01-08 Thread Sylvain Dubois
This is a test


VE2SQX
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[Elecraft] R U1 component number correct - got answer

2005-01-08 Thread Tim Logan

Thank you Lyle!
73/Tim
Lyle Johnson wrote:


Hello Tim!

SA602 and SA612 are interchangeable in the K2.

73,

Lyle KK7P




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Control Board U1 component number correct?

2005-01-08 Thread Lyle Johnson

Hello Tim!

SA602 and SA612 are interchangeable in the K2.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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[Elecraft] K2 Control Board U1 component number correct?

2005-01-08 Thread Tim Logan

Hi folks -
My K2 inventory lists Control Board component U1 as SA602AN. The actual 
part supplied is SA612AN. I assume this is a correct part but would like 
to verify before soldering to the board.  I'd check with Elecraft 
support but it's the weekend - anybody know by chance? Thank you in advance.

73/Tim NZ7C
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[Elecraft] Ten Tec 290 RF Attenuator

2005-01-08 Thread Andy C [Home]

Guys..!

First of all let me say "Happy New Year For 2005" to each an everyone on 
the list...
Let's hope that this year, can find its way to being a much happier one for 
everyone around the
world..I'm sure our thoughts are with those various people who are at the 
moment suffering and

less fortunate than ourselves at the present moment...

Just wanted to ask...if there is anyone on the list who can help me decide 
...Firstly how much
one of the above said items would currently be worth paying for on the 2nd 
hand market...


And also...IF..! there is anyone out there, who has onein nice 
condition, hopefully not "too

modified" that they would be willing to part with...??

All interested partiesplease e-mail me direct with any comments...

72s
Andy
GM0NWI[EMAIL PROTECTED]
"K2 S/n 01432 Soon To Be On-Air" 


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[Elecraft] Re: Frustrated!

2005-01-08 Thread wayne burdick


On Jan 8, 2005, at 10:24 AM, Ed Palmer wrote:

I still can't get this silly K2 to work on 20 and 30 meters. It 
appears to work well on all the other bands however.


Hi Ed,

Having built (and designed) many kits, I can empathize with your 
frustration at not being able to get part of it to work correctly. 
Please don't take a hammer to it quite yet -- it's really a great rig  
;)  The fact that it's working on the other bands means you're 99% 
there, and you really have successfully completed the kit.


It sounds like you've tried all of the things I would try, initially, 
but here are some more recommendations:


  - The transmit mode signal-tracing procedure in Appendix E of the 
manual is very easy, and very effective
at locating where the signal is disappearing. An easy to build RF 
probe is supplied with the kit.
Chances are you can find out exactly where the signal is getting 
lost -- probably the band-pass or

low-pass filters, but without tracing, you can't be sure.

  - If you build a simple test oscillator like that shown in Appendix 
E, you can inject a signal at the antenna
jack, and trace it using the RF probe. To do this, switch to 20 or 
30 meters, shut off the rig, then

trace backwards with the RF probe starting at the antenna jack.

My guess is that you have a short on the RF board in the 20/30-meter 
lowpass filter. Sometimes these shorts can be hard to find.


If all else fails, please send the rig to Gary, our customer support 
engineer. He's seen just about everything, and I'm sure he can quickly 
fix it for you. If it turns out that the RF board was defective, the 
repair will be entirely on us.


73,
Wayne, N6KR
(principle designer of the K2)


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Frustrated!

2005-01-08 Thread Ed Palmer
I need to vent to folks some of whom have likely faced this same problem.

After e-mails and phone calls to Elecraft I still can't get this silly K2 to 
work on 20 and 30 meters. It appears to work well on all the other bands 
however.

I can get a good signal at the2/30 meter band pass area so the problem must lie 
in the low pass filter area specifically the 20/30 meter LPF. I have desoldered 
and resoldered all the associated parts in the area, checked the parts for 
value and placement, removed and checked the toroids  for correct turns and 
continuity. There is no signal starting right from the antenna input. I have 
even replaced K9 and managed to mess up the board in the process. I have it 
fixed but it looks like a genuine POS. 

I'm beginning to wonder if this K2 was a wise decision for me. I have had on a 
few ocassions to resist the urge to take this thing out to the shop and reduce 
it to a manageable size with a sledge hammer and then pitch it into the 
Tri-County landfill.

Thanks for listening,

Ed, N0EHQ
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[Elecraft] K2+1 now 95% finished...

2005-01-08 Thread Tom Althoff
The mechanicals are done.   Just need to order a male DC plug for the Aux 12VDC 
inside the KAT100, get the 10pin ribbon cable assembly and mount the SO-239s 
and aux fan.   

Here are some shots of what a K2-plus-1 looks like:

http://www.k2ta.com/k2plus1_front1.jpg
http://www.k2ta.com/k2plus1_front2.jpg
http://www.k2ta.com/k2plus1_side1.jpg

I had to drill a pair of holes in the K2 bottom cover/rear panel heat sink for 
a pair of screws.   I may remove them at some point and use threaded rods/nuts 
instead.   But this was all done with just the hardware left over from when I 
removed the bail and feet from the k2 so I used what I had.
http://www.k2ta.com/k2plus1_screw.jpg

Here's the trick to mounting the KAT-100 front panel flush with the K2.
The lower 2d connector has had its threads drilled out and the 4-40 screws from 
the bail assembly screw into the upper 2d in the K2.
http://www.k2ta.com/k2plus1_2d.jpg

It's really nice to have a K2/100 with built-in auto-tuner and paddle that can 
be held between the fingers and thumb of one hand and taken anywhere.

73 de Tom K2TA
K2+1 #1117

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[Elecraft] K2 - Audio Compressor with slight splatter, any mods

2005-01-08 Thread Ken G3WCS
Firstly, let me say that this is a very minor point and only shows 
itself when using the K2 with the XV144 with *very* local stations. I 
don't think anyone on HF would notice it unless they lived next door!


I know that no audio compressor or clipper can ever be as good as a true 
RF Speech Processor and for 99% of my operation the audio speech 
compressor in the K2 is fine. When operating with the XV144 and 
monitoring in a local receiver, I can detect some splatter either side 
of my SSB signal. The receiver is not being overloaded as I can repeat 
the test with another two meter system and the splatter is non existent.


If I run the K2 with the XV144 and disable the inbuilt compressor, even 
shouting into the mic with the mic gain advanced to 2, there is no 
splatter, even though I am shouting the output up just as much.


Ultimately the problem will go away as I will be using a Datong external 
RF speech processor. I was wondering if anyone had seen or evaluated any 
changes to the compressor (filter?) circuit in an attempt to remove any 
of the little whiskers.


Once again, I stress that this is very minor and can only be detected by 
line of sight stations.


Thanks,


Ken.

--

Ken G3WCS <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
IO83rh : Cheshire : NW England
(+44) (0)870 765 1632 (home)
(+44) (0)7733 400 950 (mobile & sms)
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Re: [Elecraft] 48V, plus or minus, usually

2005-01-08 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 08/01/05 14:45:58 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
writes:

>>  It's that 50 volt 20 amp supply 
>> that's a killer!

Actually,  this voltage/current is very easy to come
by, and relatively low in  cost.  The telephone
industry uses this voltage and at high currents.  



--
 
The only point to be careful of is that yes, telecoms do use 48V though  with 
+ve ground.
You have to ensure that the supply is not tied to ground inside the  PSU.
 
That said there are plenty of suitable 115AC to 48V PSU (mainly  switched 
mode) used with PABX systems that should be available on the surplus  market as 
there has been a large turn over of the older analog telephone  switches for 
the digital type.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] 48V, plus or minus, usually

2005-01-08 Thread Steve Jackson
>> It's that 50 volt 20 amp supply 
>> that's a killer!

Actually, this voltage/current is very easy to come
by, and relatively low in cost.  The telephone
industry uses this voltage and at high currents. 
Surplus is readily available, and often at prices less
than the per-watt cost of a 13.8V high current supply.
 KS4VA often has such supplies at his commercial
website www.valuesurplus.com ... he also sells new
1/2" Andrew hardline for 75 cents a foot!!  (That's
how I have an all-hardline feedline system installed
here.) I have no commercial interest except to see a
fellow ham with great deals do well!  ;-)







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[Elecraft] K2 S meter

2005-01-08 Thread James T. "Jim" Rogers, W4ATK
I have an XG-1 and have calibrated my K2 accordingly. Sometimes, I run
without the PREamp and this morning decided to
see what effect that has on S meter readings so I could give more
"reasonable" reports. I know a bunch of you have already
done this but for what its worth:
difference/correction 
(s units)
50uv signal PREamp on:  S9  0
50uv signal PREamp off: S5  4
50uv signal ATTen on: S27

As a good contributor to the reflectors has often said, "OK back in my
cave!"

73s, Jim, W4ATK
K2 #4028

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