[Elecraft] Surplus Elecraft items and more

2005-02-15 Thread Greg S
Roger-
I would like the KAF2Thanks-
Greg, KC8HXO



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RE: [Elecraft] K1 internal signal generator?

2005-02-15 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm


 -Original Message-
 ...

 The K1 receiver operates on lower sideband for all bands.  If you
 have properly set your CW offset to, say, 600 Hz, then your
 transmitter frequency will be 0.6 kHz lower than your receiver
 frequency.   Most hams want the frequency display to show
 transmitter frequency rather than receiver frequency.  In that
 case, when you are zero-beat with a signal at, say, 6999.3 kHz,
 you'd want the LCD display to show 6999.3 - 0.6 = 6998.7 kHz,
 which will be the frequency transmitted when key-down.


 ...

The display frequency indicated above is not quite correct.  When zero-beat
with a signal (meaning to hear the signal at the sidetone pitch), the
receiver display should indicate the frequency of the carrier.  Yes it is
true that under these conditions, the actual receiver frequency is offset by
600 Hz, but the frequency display should show 6999.3 (the center of the
receiver passband will be 6999.9 kHz)

Think of it this way - the receiver should always display the carrier
frequency that will be transmitted - and that works for both CW and SSB.

73,
Don W3FPR


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Re: [Elecraft] Missing Digests

2005-02-15 Thread brad alves
G' day Mike, sorry for the delay in answering your post on the reflector, I
appear to be receiving all posts to the email list reflector , catch you at
the monthly meeting, regards Brad Alves

- Original Message -
From: Mike Walkington [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft-Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: 10 February 2005 20:19
Subject: [Elecraft] Missing Digests


 I appear to be missing every second reflector digest every 3 or 4 days.
Is
 anyone else experiencing this?

 Mike
 VK1KCK
 K2 #2599


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RE: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread Mark Baugh
I'm learning some good stuff on this subject. 
Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure
silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against
moisture and corrosion?

=
73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS



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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy
Bob, G3VVT wrote:

 Yes, it does work.

 However there is a downside in that the silicon grease prevents most kinds
 of tape adhesive sticking to the connector for providing external weather
 proofing. The only exeption to this may be the greased fabric tape (Denso
tape)
 used in waterproofing connectors on comms towers though have never tried
with
 this. Attempts afterwards to remove excess silicon grease that reaches the
 outside of the connector and so allow plastic or self amalgamating rubber
tape
 to stick were not successful.




Hi Bob,

When I have used Vaseline, only because there is usually some in the house,
I coat the mating threads and almost fill up the space between the gasket
and the cable end of the connector (N type) before inserting the nut. Some
goo oozes out which I wipe off. I then cover with Scotch Super 33+ tape,
starting the tape winding  4 to 6 inches along the cable from the
connector. Each turn covers about 3/4 of the previous turn, and I keep going
untill 4 to 6 inches along the cable from the other mating connector. I then
reverse direction and keep winding back to the starting point. Pretty crude,
but the shell of tape and any goo in the connector area plus the goo in
the connector has so far kept the weather out. I was at one time concerned
that any Vaseline that might short circuit or disturb the RF path could
cause problems, but none have been detected, and no sign of gasket problems.

Will be in touch about 4m off-list.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread Bob Nielsen
On Tue, Feb 15, 2005 at 06:32:04AM -0800, Mark Baugh wrote:
 I'm learning some good stuff on this subject. 
 Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure
 silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against
 moisture and corrosion?
 

I recall that Cushcraft supplies a small amount of what I think is 
silicon grease, along with a vinyl(?) cover to provide protection for 
the UHF connector.  I don't know how well it works over a long timespan 
(their equivalent of an SO-239 is aluminum, which probably needs more 
protection than a standard fitting).

Bob N7XY

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RE: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
I have not knowingly used silicone grease on coax connectors, but would
discourage liberal use of the stuff.  Silicone grease has its place, but if
I were using it, I would only suggest a little dab on the center conductor.
The stuff migrates everywhere and few things will stick to it, so one would
have trouble putting any additional tape or coax seal over the top of
things.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 In a message dated 15/02/05 14:33:15 GMT Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 writes:

 Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure
 silicone grease in  coax connectors to protect against
 moisture and  corrosion?




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[Elecraft] Waterproofing coax connectors (Was: N Fittings)

2005-02-15 Thread Vic Rosenthal
I've tried different methods of waterproofing outdoor coax connectors for years, 
and here is my experience, for what it's worth:


1) Vinyl electrical tape by itself -- the cheap kinds unwrap themselves.  The 
expensive Scotch brand (and possibly others) will do a good job, but you need to 
follow their instructions, use the proper amount of tension, and do it carefully 
(sometimes hard to do while standing on a ladder, etc.).


2) Vinyl electrical tape plus Liquid Electrical Tape -- I have just recently 
started using this method, so I don't have long term experience.  But it seems 
to work well.  You use any kind of vinyl tape, even the cheap junk, and then 
coat it with the liquid tape product.  The liquid contains a solvent that 
softens the vinyl tape, and it seems to seal very well.  It is easy to remove by 
slitting it with a knife.  So far, no problems.


3) Coax Seal -- Does a good job and is easy to use.  I have had connections 
seald for years which have stayed dry.  A little hard to clean up when you take 
the connection apart.


4) Heat-shrink tubing -- Don't use it  Here in Fresno we have lots of 
sunlight.  Apparently the shrink tubing is attacked by UV, whereupon it splits, 
leaving you with no protection.  I know some commercially made cables come with 
it, and maybe there's a kind that's UV proof, but I don't trust it.


5) Cushcraft-type boots -- I had one of these split after a few years in the 
sun.  Again, there may be various types, but I don't trust them either.


6) Self-vulcanizing rubber tape -- I've never been able to apply it properly, 
but looks like it would work well (although I don't know how it would respond to 
UV).  Tends to want to stick to itself, etc.  Everything is harder when you are 
on a roof or tower.


Just a word about what happens when you DON'T waterproof your connectors:  water 
will corrode the joints in the connector, but worse, it will move into the coax 
braid by capillary action.  It will invade the entire piece of coax, corrode the 
braid, and render it very, very lossy.


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco

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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread Sandy
This was done frequently on the theory that things could not occupy the same
space at the same time!  (silicone grease or water)
73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: Mark Baugh [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 8:32 AM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] N fittings


| I'm learning some good stuff on this subject. 
| Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure
| silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against
| moisture and corrosion?
| 
| =
| 73,
| Mark Baugh
| W5EZY
| Grenada MS
| 
| 
| 
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| Meet the all-new My Yahoo! - Try it today! 
| http://my.yahoo.com 
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| 
| 
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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread Tom Arntzen
I would stay away of any type of silicone because some silicones if applied 
directly on the coax will harden the

outer insulation and cause cracks if they are bent.
Also silicone does not have more than 5 years of ageing before it should be 
removed and redone.
The cushcraft boots will eventally go into a chewing gum like state after a 
couple of years.
I would recommend a good electrical tape with selfvulcing tape over that 
again.


Tom LA1PHA

- Original Message - 
From: Bob Nielsen [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 5:17 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] N fittings



On Tue, Feb 15, 2005 at 06:32:04AM -0800, Mark Baugh wrote:

I'm learning some good stuff on this subject.
Question... has anyone ever heard of or used pure
silicone grease in coax connectors to protect against
moisture and corrosion?



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[Elecraft] Way Off topic:AT90S4433 TQFP

2005-02-15 Thread S55M
Hello OC's and sorry for off topic message!

Because i know thet a great part of worldwide HAM constructors are reading this 
reflector i search some help this way:

I am desperatly searching ATMEL's AT90S4433 in TQFP package (32 pin SMD layout).
I need 5 of them (if problem 3 will do the job).
I know that ATMEL replaced it with ATMega8 but it is not the direct replacment 
and i want to find the original ones.
If anyone can help me with finding or selling of this item(s) i would be very 
happy!Regardles of price (within normal limits).

Contact me on personal e-mail!
Thanks a lot!

Best Rgrds!


S55M-Adi
K2/100/KAT100 Nr 3204

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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproofing coax connectors (Was: N Fittings)

2005-02-15 Thread Tom Hammond

Adding to Vic's previous comments... from my own experiences...

At 10:54 AM 2/15/05, Vic Rosenthal wrote:
I've tried different methods of waterproofing outdoor coax connectors for 
years, and here is my experience, for what it's worth:


3) Coax Seal -- Does a good job and is easy to use.  I have had 
connections sealed for years which have stayed dry.  A little hard to 
clean up when you take the connection apart.


I've found that Coax-Seal works best (for me), if I use it OVER an initial 
wrap of good quality plastic tape (Scotch #33 or #88), and then OVER-WRAP 
it with another wrap of good quality plastic tape. UV will kill coax-seal 
if it's not protected from UV, and coax-seal is simply MISERABLE to remove 
from just about ANY coax connector if you install it directly onto the 
connector (without an inner wrapping).


For the past 5 years, I've switched to self-vulcanizing (silicone) tape... 
see below.


6) Self-vulcanizing rubber tape -- I've never been able to apply it 
properly, but looks like it would work well (although I don't know how it 
would respond to UV).  Tends to want to stick to itself, etc.  Everything 
is harder when you are on a roof or tower.


The self-vulcanizing tape I use was purchased at Dayton over 3-4 years, 
from an amateur radio club in Minnesota... it is a gray silicone tape and 
VERY flexible and stretchy (almost a 2:1 stretch factor). I apply this tape 
directly to the coax connection, overlapping it about 50%. I then follow 
with a final overwrap of 3M #33 or #88 tape. It has, so far, kept every(!) 
drop of moisture from the connectors it's protected. There was no name on 
the rolls of tape, but I'm told that they were donated to the radio club by 
a 'very large' tape manufacturing company which has three similar letters 
in its name, and this is also located in MN. Hmmm... apparently the tape 
failed one or more of their QC tests, but was still good enough for most 
uses, just not those for which the company was willing to have its name 
shown on the product.


Self-vulcanizing rubber tapes I've seen should work just as well. If they 
appear to want to really stick TO the coax connector (such as Coax-seal 
does), you might want to first apply a protective don't stick to me wrap 
of plastic tape (even the cheap stuff will work here), and then apply the 
self-vulcanizing rubber tape, and finally a UV protective layer of good 
quality plastic tape.


Finally, the question of how to 'terminate' a taped wrap... some just pull 
it tight and then yank on the tape until it breaks, wrapping the loose end 
around the already-taped connection.


I've found, from experience, AND from numerous suggestions from those who 
have done a LOT more if that I, that when terminating a wrapped connection, 
it is best to pullout a loose end of maybe 3-4, CUT it off, and allow it 
to hang free for a short period of time, to allow any previous stretch to 
be recovered by the loose end. Once it has returned to its UNstretched 
length, wrap it snuggly around the taped joint, using the larger diameter 
of the taped joint if possible and WITHOUT much pulling on tape as you wrap 
it. This allows the tape to seal against itself well, but having not been 
stretched, it won't want to unstretch later on when the sun comes out and 
heats up the taped joint, softening the adhesive.


73,

Tom   N0SS

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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproofing coax connectors (Was: N Fittings)

2005-02-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
Tom is very correct.  In 3M presentations on their specialty tape products,
they emphasized NOT yanking off the end of any tape; but to unroll as Tom
says, and let it relax then CUT the tape from the roll.  That way, you
will not have loose ends hanging off the installation after a few weeks.
This is true of any tape with stretch.

3M has a broad line of self amalgamating tapes.   They are used extensively
in the electric utility trade; so met a local lineman, or check with
electrical wholesale houses in your vicinity.

If ever you can get a 3M rep. to give a local club a presentation, they are
fond of bringing samples to give out.
73,
Stuart
K5KVH


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[Elecraft] ECN/30 TONIGHT: 10115+/-2 from 0000-0100z

2005-02-15 Thread Daniel Reynolds
We'll be looking for your QNI tonight on ECN/30. Look for us on or around 10115
kHz (+/- 2 kHz). I'll start calling around z, and we will try to shut down
by 0100z.

If we get a good turn out, we might try to do this again next week - and see if
we can't make the net format a little more formal to help folks exchange serial
numbers with one another for Elecraft Awards.

73,
Daniel / AA0NI

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[Elecraft] ECN/30 Late Edition at 0200z

2005-02-15 Thread Daniel Reynolds
Because this is my first time trying this (and I wasn't very careful) ... for
our west coast friends, I will call a 2nd edition of the ECN/30 from
0200-0300z. We'll see how well this works out.

Same frequency (10115 +/-2)... only 2 hours later.

73 and thanks for the gentle reminder,
Daniel / AA0NI

p.s. I'll be sure to keep my key set at 13 wpm (nothing faster than 13) and
will QRS as needed. This should be fun for everyone.
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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
My understanding of the place to place silicon grease is NOT upon the
outside of the connector, but rather in the interface between male and
female connectors.  The idea is to exclude moisture pooling on the insulator
between the center pin and the outer shell conductor.

However, if you over wrap a coax connector with a good quality electrical
vinyl tape, and cut the end, rather than stretching it to break; you can
then overwrap with coax seal, Dux Seal, or self amalgamating tape lapped 50
percent, and have a long lasting but recoverable seal.

N connectors by their very construction do not typically need the addition
of silicone grease.  They have adequate fine threads and tight fitting
interfaces between plug and receptacle.

I prefer NOT to seal with silicone grease to enable inspection of the
connectors every year.
-Stuart
K5KVH


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[Elecraft] ECN/30 cancelled

2005-02-15 Thread Daniel Reynolds
I've got to cancel my first attempt at running the net tonight. Something
urgent has come up, and I hope you will understand.

73,
Daniel / AA0NI
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Re: [Elecraft] I AM LOOKING FOR OWNER MODS

2005-02-15 Thread Bill Coleman


On Feb 14, 2005, at 9:23 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

i  have heard there are many mods and add in circuits designed by K2  
owners.

  I recently purchased a used K2. I am very happy with it.
I miss two features that were on my TS-850. twin slope PBT and manual  
notch.


Get the KDSP2. It has an auto-notch that is superior to any manual 
notch.


  I did notice the BFO adjustment. If one had accurate, repeatable,  
and real
time adjustment, could one not get a passband tuning or IF shift  
effect?


Seems like this might be possible with a firmware change and maybe 
another knob -- but normally BFO changes can't be made without the 
frequency counter cable on a test point. So, there would have to be a 
sizable table of BFO settings for each frequency step in the PBT for 
each mode / filter.


I think this sorta of change is probably out of the range of your 
casual K2 builder. Wayne or Eric would be the one to pull this off.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] Waterproofing coax connectors (Was: N Fittings)

2005-02-15 Thread Bill Coleman


On Feb 15, 2005, at 11:54 AM, Vic Rosenthal wrote:

Just a word about what happens when you DON'T waterproof your 
connectors:  water will corrode the joints in the connector, but 
worse, it will move into the coax braid by capillary action.


The K7LXC tip -- regardless of which weatherproofing method you use -- 
if you are using tape of any kind, wind your last layer of tape in the 
upward direction, overlapping each turn. This will cause any water to 
naturally shed away from the inner (lower) layers, much the same way as 
roofing shingles.


If you wind in the other direction, the water will tend to move into 
the connection. Not good.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] N fittings

2005-02-15 Thread G3VVT
 
In a message dated 15/02/05 21:20:57 GMT Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

My  understanding of the place to place silicon grease is NOT upon the
outside  of the connector, but rather in the interface between male and
female  connectors.  The idea is to exclude moisture pooling on the  insulator
between the center pin and the outer shell  conductor.



--
 
Silicon grease would only be placed on the inside of the connector, but  
enevitably some can be squeezed out, making it's way to the outside  and in the 
process is transferred to your hands. Once that happens  there is no way in the 
world that most tape adhesives or self amalgamating/self  vulcanising tape 
would adhere to the connector or even itself for that matter.  It only takes an 
exceeding small amount and seems impossible to remove by normal  cleaning. This 
would be why Don, W3FPR was wisely advising caution on the amount  of silicon 
grease used.
 
With self amalgamating tape one has to be careful as some  types are said to 
be attacked by UV, though did use one  brand of it in waterproofing CATV 
connectors in the UK for a number of  years without any problems. Applied the 
self 
amalgamating tape  directly over the connector, then applied a layer of heavy 
duty plastic  tape over the top for mechanical strength and protection.
 
What one uses depends where you live and what the exposure to UV levels  are. 
What could apply in latitudes further away from the equator would not be  
applicable in hotter climates. I lived for many years in the Middle East and  
most types of self amalgamating tape would probably not be usable there due  to 
extremely high levels of UV. Normal plastic tape had a rather short life and  
such things one would use normally in cooler climates such as polypropylene 
rope  and plastic cable ties failed very quickly. The rope was turned to dust 
in 
the  space of little more than a year and plastic cable ties went brittle and  
snapped. Never managed to source carbon loaded cable ties, though nylon TB  
Tywraps did last a few more years longer.
 
The only sealant I have seen that seems to stand most situations is the  
fabric/heavy grease type of tape. This is known commonly as Denso tape  in the 
UK 
and was pretty well standard on professional telecom  installations for 
external connector sealing. Have seen a similar type used  in the Middle East 
for 
the same type of installation, so presume it must be  resistant to the effects 
of UV. This tape or a very similar type  is also used on small bore natural gas 
lines for joint sealing and  protection, so this could be another source of 
supply. Rather messy to use,  though does give extremely good protection to 
external connectors over many  years.
 
Bob, G3VVT
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[Elecraft] K2 #4490 lives

2005-02-15 Thread Neal Campbell and Sarah Ferrell

Second qso with HZ1EX on second call!

I am so excited to see this amazing little box go live!

Thanks so much to the reflector for help around the rough bits. Also 
thanks to Scott for continuing to send me the parts I lost!


73 de Neal

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