Re: [Elecraft] K2 EXTERNAL VFO CONTROL

2005-05-06 Thread Chris Page
Yes I did Paul and that is why I sold the Omni !!

73 de Chris, G4BUE

On 5 May 2005 at 6:46, Paul Gates wrote:

 Did you ever check the k2 against your Omni.. receiver??? What was the
 result? 

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[Elecraft] K1, KAT1 and remote Tuner

2005-05-06 Thread Gerhard Schwanz
Hi all,

I have a K1, ATU1 and a SGC-239 external tuner set up.

And now when SWR is bad for a non optimal antenna the K1 will drop power to
0.1W and will stay there. So the SGC will not tune because it needs 2-3W. I
tried ATU modes CALP and CALS.

I didn't find this power reduction and resolution mentioned in the manual.

So my question is: Is there a way to use external tuners that need more than
0.1W, namely 2-3W with non-resonant antennas? And if so, how?

73



Gerhard Schwanz
DH3FAW
mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.gs-personal.de


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[Elecraft] More fun with short linear loaded wires and the KXAT1

2005-05-06 Thread Michael Babineau

I have been doing some more experimentation with shortened linear loaded
wires in an attempt to find more practical lengths of end-fed wires for 
portable

and pedestrian mobile operations with my KX1.

Yesterday I used a 11 ft wire supported on a 10ft  fiberglass fishing 
pole and managed
to work KO0K in OH on 40M while trailing a 30 foot wire and running 
about 2.5W on
my KX1. As before, the linear loaded wire is made from 4 conductor 
computer ribbon
cable with the inner two conductors not connected (ie just used as 
spacers). I short
the outer two conductors at the top and install banana plugs on the two 
outer conductors
at the bottom end of the wire.  With no addedl loading other than the 
wire and the
KXAT1 I was able to get about a 2:1 match on 40M. This is not great but 
still within the
range of what the KX1 is ok with according to Wayne, N6KR. I am able to 
get better than

a 1.5:1 match on 30M and 20M with this setup as well.

Also, those of you familiar with the KXAT1 probably know that this 
tuner was optimized
for a 24 to 28 foot end-fed wire. I have been up until now using a 24 
footer with great
success, but when I hang it from the ubiquitous 20 ft SD-20 type 
fishing pole, the resulting
sloping configuration doesn't seem to lend itself to a great match on 
40M, so I have
been using a somewhat heavier and bulkier and more expensive 24 foot 
pole.
I tried using a 20 foot wire but that doesn't seem to make the tuner 
happy either.
So, yesterday, I tried a 20 foot linear loaded wire, with construction 
as above and
suspended it vertically from a 20 foot pole and  I  am happy to report 
that this loads
very nicely on all three bands covered by the KX1 using the internal 
KXAT1.


Since I am somewhat skeptical about the how well the insulation on the 
ribbon cable
actually functions at RF, I think that my next step will be to build 
what amounts to
a length of home-brew mini open wire line, using small gauge teflon 
coated wire
and some pieces of stiff plastic drinking straw as spacers. I'll 
probably try about
1/2  spacing and see how that works out and how much more, or less 
wind load

and weight that adds as compared to the ribbon cable antenna.

Too much fun ... too little time ...

Michael VE3WMB

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RE: [Elecraft] Swing Arm Magnifiers - OT

2005-05-06 Thread Harvey, Stephen P.
I got one of these about 6 mos. Ago.  It is excellent, with 4 interchangeable 
pairs of lenses in two mounts that can be flipped up or down in combination to 
provide varying magnifications.  The only problem is the *current* price.  When 
I bought, it cost $17.50, including shipping.  Maybe they'll have another 
special sometime.

http://www.seelarger.com/magnifiers/headvisorwc.htm

BTW, I agree about the benefits of a visor over a swing arm magnifier.  My 
bench is cluttered enough with obstacles and I don't need to insert another one 
between me and my target.

73 de NNØB

--Steve




 

-Original Message-
From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Thursday, May 05, 2005 06:57
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Swing Arm Magnifiers - OT

Gotta agree with most of the posts here... regardless of whether I use a 
MagniFocuser (my personal preference) or an Optivisor, I find the head-mounted 
magnifier to be MUCH more suitable for my particular type of building than the 
swing-arm-type lighted magnifiers... T

he swing-arm maggies just always seem to be in the wrong place every time I 
need to use them, and always in the way when I don't need them at that instant. 
They also seem to tend to be 'jiggley' and never remain as stable as I need 
them to be. As a result, I've never found a swing-arm maggie (with all due 
respect to K3XS G) that I've liked or found to be useful in my personal 
manner of building.

Regarding magnification level...

I recently bought a second head-mounted (MagniFocuser) magnifier. This one was 
a bit 'hotter' (#10 lens, 3.50X) than my venerable older one (#7 lens,
2.75X) of about 25 years. What I found when I put it on, however was that I 
kept trying to solder my nose!!!  I found the 3.50X lens has a focal length of 
4, while the 2.75X lens has a focal length of 6, which put the nose and 
soldering iron at much safer distances between each other!!!

I now use the 3.50X lens for close-up examination, and the 2.75X lens for 
building... MUCH MORE COMFORTABLE.

What I'd REALLY LIKE is one of those eyeglasses with the specially mounted lens 
magnifier which allows for relatively high magnification (say, 3.5X), BUT at a 
longer focal length... say 10 - 12 instead of risking more 'nose branding' by 
the soldering iron tip.  But all of those I've found are much too costly for my 
cheapskate wallet.

73,

Tom Hammond   N0SS




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[Elecraft] Help with troubleshooting KAT1

2005-05-06 Thread Jason Artz
Hello,

I have a new K1-4 that I built over the last couple
weeks and it seems to work fine.  It passed all its
tests.  Since I don't have an antenna, I went ahead
and built the KAT1 so that I could get on the air.  I
think I'm having a problem with it, but I am not sure
since I don't yet have an RF probe and can't do all of
the tests/calibrations.

The initial test worked - the KAT1 is communicating
with the K1 properly.

The SWR bridge adjustment, I believe, is where I'm
having a problem.  With the dummy load, my SWR in CLS
mode reads about r4.5 or so.  Adjusting C9 changes
voltage in a very narrow range (about 1.3-1.5v).  I
set it for the lowest voltage reading.  

I haven't done the power calibration yet, but if I try
tuning a wire antenna (in tun mode), I get a lot of
relay chattering, displayed power level fluctuation,
and eventual r9.9.   Same with the dummy load on all
bands.  All relays work - when I step through the
various L0, L1, etc., they click and I can hear a
difference in received noise level.

Will my problems be taken care of in the power
calibration step, or might I have something else going
on?

Thanks for your help,
Jason
AC6XA



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Re: [Elecraft] Optivisor

2005-05-06 Thread J. W. (Dub) Thornton



I just received my Optovisor from Enco www.use-enco.com.  Price $22.95 plus 
shipping/handling,
ordered from a sale catalog I received from them in the mail.  Master 
catalog shows $24.95, but
still the best price I have seen.   Loupe attachment  replacement lenses 
also available.  See Master

Catalog 251 in PDF format for complete listing.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=251

73 Dub

J. W.  (Dub) Thornton  K5DUB
Minco, OK.  


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 Pre-Filter Version 2

2005-05-06 Thread Stewart Baker
On Fri, 6 May 2005 10:21:52 +0100, Paul G4CCZ wrote:
 Hi Steve,
Hi Paul,

 I built your first version of the pre filter and have been happy with its
 performance do you have any pictures of the 2nd version?
I haven't taken any pictures of Version 2 yet

 I built mine somewhat differently to your original and may well make the
 changes if you think it has made any improvement.
I don't know if it makes any improvement, but it answers any criticism 
 that the K2's excellent IMD performance has been impaired by the mod.

 Pictures of my pre filter are here:-
Very good pictures, I particularly like the mounting post mod.

If you let me use your photographs of the cut down KSB2 board on my site
 then I will, in the next couple of days, photograph Version 2, and put it on 
my site. Is it a deal ?
 http://www.6metres.com/k2/

 I also changed the capacitors on the SSB board and spent many hours setting
 the BFO up as I must admit I was not at all happy with the TX quality but it
 now sounds great and I have no complaints.

When you get it right you get compliments about your SSB signal, get it wrong 
and many people will just say it's OK.

73
Stewart G3RXQ

 73

 Paul
 G4CCZ



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Re: [Elecraft] More fun with short linear loaded wires and the KXAT1

2005-05-06 Thread Dale Boresz

Hello Michael,

I've experimented quite a bit with linear loaded vertical dipoles, and 
found that placing capacitance hats at both ends helps a lot. Not only 
does it lower the resonant frequency for a given length of wire, but it 
also raises the radiation resistance so the antenna will be more efficient.


Maybe you could try something like back-to-back telescoping antennas 
tied to the top of the wire, such that they balance out and remain 
somewhat horizontal.


Have fun!

73, Dale WA8SRA

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Re: [Elecraft] Optivisor

2005-05-06 Thread J. W. (Dub) Thornton



Later:  Sale catalog is good until June 30, 2005.  Sale prices seem to be 
available by entering
letters FG ahead of the model # shown in catalog, ie: FG632-5310 for the 
optovisor.  Free
UPS shipping is also available for orders of $50.00 or more, with promo 
code NRFUP55.
Phone # 800 873-3626.  I have ordered quite a number of machine tool items 
from Enco, over
the past few years, and have always been very well pleased with their 
products  prompt shipping.


I just received my Optovisor from Enco www.use-enco.com. Price $22.95 plus 
shipping/handling,
ordered from a sale catalog I received from them in the mail.  Master 
catalog shows $24.95, but
still the best price I have seen.   Loupe attachment  replacement lenses 
also available.  See Master

Catalog page 251 in PDF format for complete listing.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INPDFF?PMPAGE=251

73 Dub

J. W.  (Dub) Thornton  K5DUB
Minco, OK.  


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[Elecraft] K2 EXTERNAL VFO CONTROL

2005-05-06 Thread J F
The DDS Daughtercard has a granddaughter card now and
may be redesigned to incorporate all of the mods on
one board. Most likely you will need a visor or
magnifier to build this. It's not difficult but those
SM parts are tiny!
Cheers,
Julius 
n2wn

Message: 15
Date: Thu, 05 May 2005 12:01:22 -0400
From: Larry Phipps [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 EXTERNAL VFO CONTROL
Cc: Elecraft Mail List elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1;
format=flowed


Try the DDS daughtercard then, it may be more
available because it is 
newer.

Larry N8LP
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[Elecraft] Test

2005-05-06 Thread Yves Dussault
 
 Test
 
 
Yves Dussault-VE2ATD
Laval, Québec.___
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[Elecraft] Fw: K2 Problem 30/20

2005-05-06 Thread Glenn Haffly


Subject: K2 Problem 30/20



K2 # 4869 fully functional except 30/20 meters.
An external signal generator on these bands will
allow trimmers C21 and C23 to be peaked. A
strong external signal is barely heard.
Items that have been checked:
#1 L18 , L19 , L20 rechecked for proper amount
of turns and solder joints Ok.
#2 All capacitors in the LP area are the correct part
and solder joints Ok.
#3 All capacitors in the band pass filter are the correct
parts and no solder joints.
#4 Relays K4 and K9 oriented correctly.
#5 Using Don's past words check solder joints and are Ok.
#6 The correct transformers used at L8 and L9.
#7 Trimmer caps with red dots are at C21 and C23.
Observations : Placing a finger under L8 increases noise levels
and touching a screwdriver to one end of most of the caps in
the 30/20 BP area also increase the noise level to a point where
strong outside signals can be heard.
Current plans are to use the signal generator at the antenna connector
and try to see where signal stops.
All other bands are good on Rx and Tx.
Any suggestions would be welcome. 


Glenn
K5ZE

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[Elecraft] Fw: K2 Problem 30/20

2005-05-06 Thread Glenn Haffly


- Original Message - 
From: Glenn Haffly [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: Gary Surrency [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Friday, May 06, 2005 12:25 PM
Subject: K2 Problem 30/20



K2 # 4869 fully functional except 30/20 meters.
An external signal generator on these bands will
allow trimmers C21 and C23 to be peaked. A
strong external signal is barely heard.
Items that have been checked:
#1 L18 , L19 , L20 rechecked for proper amount
of turns and solder joints Ok.
#2 All capacitors in the LP area are the correct part
and solder joints Ok.
#3 All capacitors in the band pass filter are the correct
parts and no solder joints.
#4 Relays K4 and K9 oriented correctly.
#5 Using Don's past words check solder joints and are Ok.
#6 The correct transformers used at L8 and L9.
#7 Trimmer caps with red dots are at C21 and C23.
Observations : Placing a finger under L8 increases noise levels
and touching a screwdriver to one end of most of the caps in
the 30/20 BP area also increase the noise level to a point where
strong outside signals can be heard.
Current plans are to use the signal generator at the antenna connector
and try to see where signal stops.
All other bands are good on Rx and Tx.
Any suggestions would be welcome. 


Glenn
K5ZE



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[Elecraft] My K2 QRP For Sale

2005-05-06 Thread Dave G.
I have just realized I had left out the KSB2 option the last 
time I posted this - doh!.  So I'm re-listing it. 
SN 03597, non-smoking shack, fully operational with the 
latest firmware and updates excluding the CW keying mod. 

Options installed are;
KSB2, KNB2, KAF2, KAT2, KIO2, KBT2, K160RX and the XV60 
including the new rear heatsink panel. 
It also includes the Heil_MH2 hand microphone.

It has the rubber ring from a Yaesu FT-100 tuning knob 
installed on the basic Elecraft Tuning knob -- makes a big 
difference -- but it's easy to remove. I do have a 'spinner' 
adaptor but I've not fitted it.

Asking $1000 or make me a reasonable offer. Shipped, double 
boxed, CONUS only, via FEDEX or UPS.

If interested, please reply off list and put elecraft in 
the subject line so my spam detector wont block it !!
dmg .at. bossig .dot. com or at kk7ss .at. arrl .dot. net

Jim Brown kindly volunteered to vouch for the quality of my 
work. (Thanks, Jim)

73 de 
Dave, KK7SS




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RE: [Elecraft] Fw: K2 Problem 30/20

2005-05-06 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Glenn,

Since you obtain a signal when touching the points in the bandpass filter
AND that the K2 works on other bands, I predict that you will find the
problem in the Low Pass Filter.  Either a Poorly Tinned Toroid Lead (PTTL)
or the points of relay K9 are not behaving properly.  Select either 20 or 30
meters then turn power off and measure the resistance between jumper W1 and
the antenna jack - if it is not close to zero ohms, you have confirmed that
the low pass filter is at fault.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-
  K2 # 4869 fully functional except 30/20 meters.
  An external signal generator on these bands will
  allow trimmers C21 and C23 to be peaked. A
  strong external signal is barely heard.
  Items that have been checked:
  #1 L18 , L19 , L20 rechecked for proper amount
  of turns and solder joints Ok.
  #2 All capacitors in the LP area are the correct part
  and solder joints Ok.
  #3 All capacitors in the band pass filter are the correct
  parts and no solder joints.
  #4 Relays K4 and K9 oriented correctly.

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[Elecraft] K2 Problem

2005-05-06 Thread Glenn Haffly
There is a problem wih K2 # 4869.
On 30 / 20 meter bands there is no received
signal. Using an rf generator a signal can be heard.
The following have been checked :
#1 Reviewed solder joints in LP and BP areas. None found.
#2 Recounted turns on L18 , L19, L20. All correct and no cold solder joints.
#3 All caps in LP and BP correctly installed.
#4 Relays K4 and K9 installed correctly.
#5 All other bands operational on Rx and Tx.
#6 Per Don checked soldering several times.
Observations: Using the RF generator , used it as a probe in the BP area.
The
signal could be heard at every cap location either on 30 or 20 except at
C25.
C25 was replaced with a temp from the junk box. No improvement noted.
Also using a screwdriver as a probe with a finger on it in the 30/20 BP area
an improvement in signal strength noted. In tuning around on 20 there is a
birdie at 14.000 and 14.360.
Any suggestions would be welcome.

Glenn
K5ZE


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Re: [Elecraft] Help with troubleshooting KAT1

2005-05-06 Thread Tom Hammond

Hi Jason:

You should definitely get less than a 4:1 SWR when using a decent 
dummyload. Something closer to 1:1 or 1.1:1 would be expected.


Here are a couple suggestions IF you can implement them:

1) Check the real resistance of your dummyload!!! It should be between 45 
and 55 Ohms. If not, MAKE a new one from a couple 100 Ohm 2W (or 3W) metal 
oxide resistors. If you can't find metal oxides locally, use a couple 100 
Ohm 2W carbon comp or metal films.


2) Do away with ANY coax between the rig and the dummyload...! Several 
times I've seen even moderate coax length 'get in the way' of even 
semi-accurate SWR null adjustments. If your dummyload will allow it, 
directly connect it to the back of the ATU via a BNC to (whatever) adapter. 
If not, use the very shortest length of coax you can achieve.


3) Use an analog meter when setting the null... of course it will have to 
be pretty sensitive... if you don't have one, use whatever you have.


4) Ensure that the null you're seeing occurs at a point which is NOT at one 
of the two tuning extremes of the cap (not at fully open or fully closed). 
If it is, then you have a problem elsewhere... often in the transformer of 
the directional coupler.


Good luck,

Tom Hammond   N0SS




At 09:18 AM 5/6/05, Jason Artz wrote:

Hello,

I have a new K1-4 that I built over the last couple
weeks and it seems to work fine.  It passed all its
tests.  Since I don't have an antenna, I went ahead
and built the KAT1 so that I could get on the air.  I
think I'm having a problem with it, but I am not sure
since I don't yet have an RF probe and can't do all of
the tests/calibrations.

The initial test worked - the KAT1 is communicating
with the K1 properly.

The SWR bridge adjustment, I believe, is where I'm
having a problem.  With the dummy load, my SWR in CLS
mode reads about r4.5 or so.  Adjusting C9 changes
voltage in a very narrow range (about 1.3-1.5v).  I
set it for the lowest voltage reading.

I haven't done the power calibration yet, but if I try
tuning a wire antenna (in tun mode), I get a lot of
relay chattering, displayed power level fluctuation,
and eventual r9.9.   Same with the dummy load on all
bands.  All relays work - when I step through the
various L0, L1, etc., they click and I can hear a
difference in received noise level.

Will my problems be taken care of in the power
calibration step, or might I have something else going
on?

Thanks for your help,
Jason
AC6XA



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[Elecraft] K2 CW Tone

2005-05-06 Thread a.yoshida

K2 #4504
A few days ago I received RST 597 report on 20m CW.
Then checked transmitted CW monitoring with other radio.
Following is subjective report.

80m  599
40m  599
30m  599
20m  597 Carrier seems to be modurated by hum.
17m  598 Same as above
15m  599
12m  599
10m  599

K2 is far enough from magnetic source.
Changing power (2W, 5W, 10W) does not make any difference.
I do not know why tone is poor only on those 2 bands. 
Any suggestion please.


73 de aki, ja1nlx
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~yy7a-ysd/

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 hamlib

2005-05-06 Thread Brian Mury
 port, I wonder if any linux users on the list have tried hamlib 

 Filter settings don't work, but Brian Mury has taken on the maintenance 
 of the K2 module (see the hamlib list) and hopes to fix it.

I'm a little late replying to this, but I have an excuse... ;-)

A couple months ago I moved from British Columbia to Nova Scotia (that's
about 4500 km in a straight line, around 6200 km by road). I then had to
wait 3 weeks for the military to ship my stuff (including my computer)
across the country. It arrived the day before I went to sea for a month.
Just got back a week ago, and got my internet connection hooked up
yesterday. I'm catching up on the last couple months of email.

For the same reason, I have not done any work at all on hamlib. Work
will continue to keep me very busy for the next 3 weeks. After that I
should be working mostly 8-4, at least until the end of August. I hope
to make some progress during the summer.

BTW, I am the official maintainer for the K2 module, but anyone is free
to contribute to the code. The more the merrier!

Anyway, I just thought those who are interested might like to know where
things are at.

-- 
73, Brian
VE7NGR
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[Elecraft] (no subject)

2005-05-06 Thread kc4eyf
test


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