Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit suggestion

2005-06-28 Thread Trevor Day
It may also be worth looking at this from the other end.  Presumably 
Elecraft's bags are 'hand filled' rather than by machine, so there is 
the possibility of error there.  Changing a long established method of 
grouping all of these components, possibly for something more complex, 
may introduce errors that would otherwise not have happened.


73,
Trev, G3ZYY


In message [EMAIL PROTECTED], W3FPR - 
Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes

Mike,

I agree -- well almost.

The K2 is packaged into several bags - the front panel, the control board,
the RF Board (2 packages) and a hardware bag.

While there is some mixing from the hardware bag items, the electronic
assembly moves smoothly from the Control Board (1 bag) to the Front Panel
(one bag until the mechanical assembly part of the steps require the
hardware pack), and then on to the RF Board.

I have assembled many K2s and perhaps I have become familiar with the
process, but it makes sense to me.  To do as you have suggested would
require separating the hardware packs and putting some relevant parts into
the Front Panel pack.  I fail to see that there would be a great advantage
in doing so.  Perhaps a better solution would be to identify in the assembly
manual which pack the parts can be found, thus allowing inventory of each
pack separately.  Splitting the RF board packs between the alignment steps I
and II might be worthwhile, but that seems like 'overkill' to me.

I do agree that packaging the thermal pads in the serial number envelope has
been confusing to some folks.  For now, that is the way of things, and the
real problem is that what you suggest would require coordination of a change
in the manual as well as a change in the packaging process.  The manual
changes are harder to accomplish correctly than the packaging process
(requires reviews for correctness and such), so while the Elecraft folks may
take your comments seriously, it may be a while before anyone sees a change
due to the coordination required (instuctions to the vendor: pack Rev G
manual starting with serial no , and change the way parts packs are
assembled at the same time).  The parts packaging is vended to outside
firms, so there is a bit more to making a change than just the desires of
the folks at the Elecraft office.  I don't know whether the changes would be
worth the costs of implementation.  In any case, Elecraft gladly supplies
any 'suspected' missing parts promptly and with a smile, so every builder
who performs an inventory can build a K2 without unnecessary delays.

73,
Don W3FPR



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Mike Markowski
Sent: Monday, June 27, 2005 10:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Kit suggestion


I think we've gotten away from the original suggestion, which was not I
believe, aimed to avoiding inventories but a way to streamline the build
and reduce errors by packaging components based on assembly stages.  I
think it's a great idea!

Instead of one big box-o-stuff for the K2, it would have been great if
there were, for example, three packages; one each for assembly Phases I,
II, and III corresponding to the manual chapters (I'm saying that off
the top of my head  don't know if that breakdown makes sense).  Then
for each package an inventory would done.  As far as the inventory goes,
sure, you're doing the same amount of work in the end.  But during
assembly you have roughly one third of the parts taking up space on the
work bench and probably less likelihood of bumping a component onto the
floor, dripping solder on one, dropping something on one, mixing up
parts, etc., if only because there are fewer things going on to confuse
the ol' bean.  Less distraction/confusion = fewer errors (maybe?).

My K2 went together without a hitch thanks to an absolutely fantastic
manual so maybe it isn't necessary after all, but I have to think that
the divide-and-conquer approach makes each phase of the assembly a
little easier and less error prone.  Taken over a large number of kit
builders, that probably means fewer build errors.  Of course, I admit
there are a lot of probablys, mights, and guesswork.  But the
original poster's suggestion sounds worthwhile as apparently Heathkit
also thought.

73,
Mike AB3AP
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re: [Elecraft] longwire the auto tuner

2005-06-28 Thread Michael Babineau

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote :

 Now i have to find a longwire length of less than 100 ft that will
 tune up well on
 those bands (20, 40, 75, 80) for going portable.

Orrin :

Try about 87 feet (26.5 meters) of wire. This is a good length to cover 
most
of the HF bands  as it is not near a multiple of a 1/2 wave on any of 
the bands
(except 10m) so it will present a reasonable impedance that the tuner 
can match.


Michael VE3WMB 


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Re: [Elecraft] Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-28 Thread Margaret Leber

wayne burdick wrote:


There are also bacteria that produce hydrogen, when properly trained.


The problem with that so far has been the feasibility of the 
nanotech-based whip and chair. :-)


 73 de Maggie K3XS -- K2 1641

--
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/(, /|  /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/
---/   / | / |  _   _   _`  _  AOPA 925383/ amid change and to  /
--/ ) /  |/  |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_  K3XS / preserve change amid/
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/(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/


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[Elecraft] N4HH FD

2005-06-28 Thread Donald Nesbitt
Participated a couple of hours in a 9A operation at N4N (amazingly
organized) and then had a little personal FD of my own with a recently
acquired K1 thanks to John (WL7M) - was KL0WN - yes, he worked as a clown
with RB  BB Circus -  and is a very accomplished builder!  Excellent job
John - tnx for making it available!

N4HH 1B on 20 meter cw only.  K1 running 5 watts off a gel cel to a 20 meter
dipole at a staggering and sagging 15 feet.84 Q's in abt 4 hrs including
F5IN and a couple of 4X4's prior to the contest!

I used the FD Logger 2005 by KC8OPV (http://www.qsl.net/kc8opv).  James'
program is very simple and excellent. You might want to take a look at it
for next year.  73 es gud dxing -- Don N4HH K2/100/KAT100 #2028, K1 #1456,
etc, etc



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[Elecraft] Re: Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-28 Thread Allen C. Ward
Surely some out there have read Philip Jose Farmer's River World series.  
Mark Twain ran his Fabulous Riverboat from an ultracapacitor.
Can you imagine what would happen if you accidently shorted a ring across a 
fully charged ultracap of 20,000 Farads?  Goodbye finger(s).

Allen KA5N
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[Elecraft] K2 SSB mode and T/R switch time

2005-06-28 Thread info4mjs
Hi,
I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed this but the time for my K2 to switch 
from transmit back to receive in the SSB mode seems a bit lengthy.  It's 
probably in the 200-400 mS range which is annoying.  Am I missing a menu 
controlled item or is something wrong?

Any insight would be appreciated.

After logging 147 contacts during FD at the 5W level, this issue became very 
annoying.

Thanks

Mike, WA1SEO
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[Elecraft] Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-28 Thread Jim Harris
Kevin,

The first thing that jumps out at me is that
capacitors voltage drops at what I remember is a log
rate when discharging.  A capacitor would still have
something like half the coulombs of electrons left
inside when the voltage would have dropped too low for
the average rig to work correctly.  Especially newer
batteries hold their voltage much longer and then drop
nearly abruptly when discharged.   Maybe external
components could somehow control the voltage level. 
Then, that takes away from the simplicity.

Good Luck

Jim, AB0UK
K2/100  S/N 4787

I've been reading the technical literature lately
and have been 
following 
an interesting development: ultracapacitors.  These
components are on 
the 
order of 5K to 20K Farads.  So I did a little
calculating.

1F = 1V * 1 Coulomb.
1 Coulomb = 1 Ampere Second
Thus 1F = 1V * 1 Amp Second.

5000 F / 12 V = 416 2/3 Amp Seconds.
416 2/3 Amp Seconds / 0.5 A = 833 seconds or 13.8
minutes.

If I have done this correctly you should be able to
run a QRP rig key 
down 
for approximately 14 minutes with a fully charged 5K
Farad 
ultracapacitor.  From what I have been reading these
are getting 
cheaper 
via economies of scale and from engineering
breakthroughs in dielectric 
and storage plate materials.  The storage plates are
activated charcoal 
plated on aluminum strips and wound into a can filled
with electrolyte.  
The electrolyte material, acetonitrile, is the rub
however.  If it 
burns 
cyanide gas is produced in dangerous quantities. 
Nanotube technology 
and 
more recent electrolyte chemisty advances are offering
even greater 
capacitance in smaller packages.

One day we may be running our rigs from
ultracapacitors instead of 
batteries.  They recharge extremely rapidly.  They
store charge for a 
long 
period of time.  And they discharge at rates that put
the best 
batteries 
to shame.  If you need high amperage devices (think
your 100 watt rig 
on 
transmit) these will fill the bill.

Since electrochemical devices are reaching their
limits this may be the 
next mobile power storage device.
Kevin.  KD5ONS



 
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AW: [Elecraft] K2 SSB mode and T/R switch time

2005-06-28 Thread Renardy, Martin

Hallo Mike,

The only parameter I now is the tr-Delay Parameter in the Menue, but it just 
should affect CW mode. I do not have any
Longer delay.

Regards+

Martin

-Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von [EMAIL 
PROTECTED]
Gesendet: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 3:21 PM
An: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Betreff: [Elecraft] K2 SSB mode and T/R switch time


Hi,
I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed this but the time for my K2 to switch 
from transmit back to receive in the SSB mode seems a bit lengthy.  It's 
probably in the 200-400 mS range which is annoying.  Am I missing a menu 
controlled item or is something wrong?

Any insight would be appreciated.

After logging 147 contacts during FD at the 5W level, this issue became very 
annoying.

Thanks

Mike, WA1SEO
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 SSB mode and T/R switch time

2005-06-28 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Mike,

Is it possible that you have the K2 set for VOX operation ('L' or 'U'
indicator blinking)? - if so, the VOX delay will increase the time for
switching back to receive.  The PTT switch will still activate the transmit
condition even though VOX is selected.  Press the TEST/VOX button until Ptt
is indicated and try it.  With PTT selected, the transition time should be
the same as on CW, and that delay can be controlled by the 8R hold time set
in the menu by the T-R parameter.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-

 Hi,
 I'm not sure if anyone else has noticed this but the time for my
 K2 to switch from transmit back to receive in the SSB mode seems
 a bit lengthy.  It's probably in the 200-400 mS range which is
 annoying.  Am I missing a menu controlled item or is something wrong?

 Any insight would be appreciated.

 After logging 147 contacts during FD at the 5W level, this issue
 became very annoying.

 Thanks

 Mike, WA1SEO

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RE: [Elecraft] Low Voltage Supply Danger

2005-06-28 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
And I will add that we should be very cautious around batteries and battery
sourced power supplies too.  Batteries will produce a LOT of current if
shorted.  I once tested an 8 cell pack of AA sized NiCad batteries in a lab
for their short circuit discharge current - yes the current dropped off
rapidly, but was still sufficient to vaporize the copper in the #16 wire
leads attached to the battery pack.  Keep those battery terminals adequately
covered and safe from accidental contact.  The voltage may not hurt but the
results from the current can certainly maim and even kill.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


 Allen, KA5N wrote:

  ...Can you imagine what would happen if you accidently shorted a ring
 across a fully charged ultracap of 20,000 Farads?  Goodbye finger(s).

 --

 That's a legitimate concern with our present 13.8 supplies as well. Twenty
 or thirty amps can be very dangerous if you get a piece of jewelry across
 the contacts. If you're unlucky enough to fail to make good enough contact
 to trip the crowbar or blow a fuse, you'll be frozen there as the ring (or
 bracelet) melts into your flesh.

 Almost everyone who has worked around aircraft knows someone
 missing a ring
 finger and sometimes a whole hand from just such mishaps. Working on a
 fighter one night at Lockheed Aircraft, I heard a power cart groan and
 looked at the next plane sitting wingtip to wingtip with the one I was in
 and saw smoke billowing from a partially-opened canopy and a tech
 unconscious inside. It turned out he had tried to replace a
 breaker without
 disconnecting power and dropped this screwdriver where it contacted the
 power bus bar and the side of the airplane. The metal shaft of the
 screwdriver literally exploded into globules of molten metal that
 caused him
 to jump up, smash his the back of his head on the canopy and
 knocked himself
 out. Other than a concussion he wasn't seriously hurt but the plane was a
 mess.

 That's one very good reason to be sure that 20 amp fuse Elecraft specifies
 for the K2/100 is in the power line.

 Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] G00 G31

2005-06-28 Thread mc
with the KXAT1 installed, what does this feature actual do to make receive 
better. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Low Voltage Supply Danger

2005-06-28 Thread Tom Hammond

At 08:55 AM 6/28/2005, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


That's a legitimate concern with our present 13.8 supplies as well. Twenty
or thirty amps can be very dangerous if you get a piece of jewelry across
the contacts. If you're unlucky enough to fail to make good enough contact
to trip the crowbar or blow a fuse, you'll be frozen there as the ring (or
bracelet) melts into your flesh.


You're certainly right there, Ron... UN-limited current from a big honkin' 
battery, or power supply really CAN be extremely dangerous.


Fortunately (as I can attest, from several almost unfortunate experiences) 
most of the 'modern' AC power supplies offer foldback current limiting 
which, if the output is shorted, will reduce the output current (and 
voltage) to nearly ZERO, helping to protect against such catastrophes.


UNfortunately, this is not the case for storage batteries, and I'm sure, 
some older power supplies as well, which will supply almost unlimited 
current until they either run out, blow up, or melt through the power 
cable. In fact, a local friend just very recently managed to short out the 
power cable on his fully-charged 80AH gell cell... not only melted almost 
all the insulation on the DC cable, but actually began melting the THICK 
LEAD terminals build into the battery itself. Fortunately, there was no 
harm done to my friend... but he got a really QUICK education is the power 
of a low internal impedance current source.


As you noted, ALL DC power sources should be adequately (and appropriately) 
fused, and fairly close to the DC source itself, if at all possible... it 
doesn't have to be the far end of the DC cable that shorts out... could be 
anywhere along its length that becomes accidently stripped of insulation... 
BAD THINGS CAN HAPPEN.


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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Stability of Output Power Level

2005-06-28 Thread W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Michael,

OK, so you are like the man with 2 watches who never knew what time it was
G.

Since you don't know which one to really trust, may I suggest that you
connect an RF Probe directly across the dummy load (a TEE adapter at the
dummy load connector makes a convenient way to attach the probe) - measure
the RF Voltage - your DVM connected to the probe will read the voltage in
RMS Volts, then calculate the power P=Vsquared/R, and in your case you know
the R is 50.3 ohms.

In addition, I must also ask how you determined the dummy load was 50.3
ohms - a DC resistance reading will not be sufficient - measure it with an
antenna analyzer to be certain of both the resistance and the reactance,
ideally, the reactance should be zero across the entire frequency range that
you will use the dummy load, but you must know its real value at RF
frequencies.  If it is reactive, that alone may explain the difference
between the WM-2 and the K2 readings.

Repeated presses of the TUNE button will normally produce different power
output, it will be within a couple watts of the requested power.  At the
extreme low power levels, the voltage produced is so small that it gets
'lost' in the digital translation.  Try measuring the power with a keydown
condition rather than using TUNE and you will find the power output more
consistent, and it should be close to the requested power if the load is 50
ohms resistive.

I might add that I have found the base K2 (RF probe type) provides a very
good measurement of power if the dummy load is truly 50 ohms non-reactive.

With the either KAT2, KPA100, or KAT100 installed, the power is measured
through a true wattmeter circuit rather than an RF probe type detector, so
the dependency on having a non-reactive load is greatly reduced, and after
proper calibration will provide accurate power measurements.

73,
Don W3FPR

 -Original Message-


   I just completed construction of an Oak Hills Research WM-2 QRP
 wattmeter. So, of course I wanted to compare its readings with that of
 the K2.

   Here are some test results. Please let me know if what I'm seeing here
 is normal or if you think Elecraft's Optional K2 Power Control
 Modification may make any of this a little better. All of these tests
 were performed at 7.145 MHz into the WM-2 wattmeter and then into a good
 (50.3 Ohms resistive) OHR dummy load. For each test, I key the radio
 several times using the Tune function (no KAT2 installed, yet).

 #1
 Set the K2's power control (request) for 4W and the output varied
 between the following:

 K2 Disp  WM-2
 ---  
 5.2  ~7
 3.9  ~5
 3.3  ~4

 #2
 Set the K2's power control (request) for 2W and the output varied
 between the following:

 K2 Disp  WM-2
 ---  
 1.5  ~2
 2.4  ~3

 #3
 Set the K2's power control (request) for 0.5W and the output varied
 between the following:

 K2 Disp  WM-2
 ---  
 0.4  ~0.7
 0.8  ~1.2

 #4
 Set the K2's power control (request) for 0.2W and the output varied
 between the following:

 K2 Disp  WM-2
 ---  
 0.2  ~0.4
 0.3  ~0.5

 #5
 Set the K2's power control (request) for 0.1W and the output decreased
 with each activation of the Tune function until there was no detectable
 output:

 K2 Disp  WM-2
 ---  
 0.1  ~0.2
 0.1  ~0.1
 0.2  ~0.05
 0.2  no noticeable reading on 100mw scale

   I'm primarily concerned with cases 1 and 5. The variance in case 1 is
 fairly broad and is among three values. Case number 5 concerns me
 because the output level drops with each successive press of the Tune
 button until no output can be detected by the WM-2 on its 100mw scale.
 Clearly, I would not be able to reliably use my K2 when set for 100mw.

   Will this situation (with respect to output power sensing) get any
 better after I install the KAT2? I haven't completed construction of the
 KAT2, yet. Any input/explanations/ideas would be appreciated.

   Thanks! -Michael N9BDF, K2 #4137

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[Elecraft] Re: Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-28 Thread sloner
It seems to me that the calculations in the original post are not quite right.

 1F = 1V * 1 Coulomb.

The Farad is a Coulomb per Volt or Q/V not Q * V

This starting point inserts errors in the calculations that follow.  

For example:

 Thus 1F = 1V * 1 Amp Second.

The unit V * Amp * sec is equal to watts * sec =  energy in joules.  A Farad is 
not a joule of energy.

Also note that the voltage drops in a capacitor as you draw current from it, so 
you need some circuitry to keep the voltage up to keep your QRP rig happy.  As 
a result there is probably some practical level where the capacitor still has 
energy left, but it can not be effectively used any more.  (The rig would still 
work for a while as voltage dropped, but in the example given the voltage is 
considered constant at 12 Volts.)
A better approach to this calculation might be to start with the total energy 
stored in the 5000 F cap that was charged to 12 V.  The energy stored in a cap 
is:

Energy = (1/2) * C * (voltage squared)where C is in Farads, V is in volts, 
and Energy is in Joules 

In the example that was used, the QRP rig takes a constant 12 volts dc at a 0.5 
amp.  This is 6 watts or 6 Joules per second.  If this constant power could be 
drawn from the capacitor until exhausted, then the time it would last would 
directly follow by dividing the initial energy in the cap by the rate of energy 
removal.  However, the added circuitry mentioned above between the cap and the 
rig would have losses, minimum useable cap voltage,  etc.
73, Richard, KG4VOX
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RE: [Elecraft] K2: Stability of Output Power Level

2005-06-28 Thread Ken K3IU
Hi Michael:
In case you don't have an antenna analyzer and the OHR dummy load you refer
to is their 100 Watt RF Load, I just measured the impedance of my OHR
dummy load with my MFJ Analyzer. It shows 50 ohms resistive and no reactive
component at all until the freq gets up to about 16 mHz. So I would say that
your dummy load is probably OK for the purpose.
73,
Ken K3IU
~~~
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of W3FPR - Don Wilhelm
Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 12:19 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2: Stability of Output Power Level

Michael,

OK, so you are like the man with 2 watches who never knew what time it was
G.

Since you don't know which one to really trust, may I suggest that you
connect an RF Probe directly across the dummy load (a TEE adapter at the
dummy load connector makes a convenient way to attach the probe) - measure
the RF Voltage - your DVM connected to the probe will read the voltage in
RMS Volts, then calculate the power P=Vsquared/R, and in your case you know
the R is 50.3 ohms.

In addition, I must also ask how you determined the dummy load was 50.3
ohms - a DC resistance reading will not be sufficient - measure it with an
antenna analyzer to be certain of both the resistance and the reactance,
ideally, the reactance should be zero across the entire frequency range that
you will use the dummy load, but you must know its real value at RF
frequencies.  If it is reactive, that alone may explain the difference
between the WM-2 and the K2 readings.

Repeated presses of the TUNE button will normally produce different power
output, it will be within a couple watts of the requested power.  At the
extreme low power levels, the voltage produced is so small that it gets
'lost' in the digital translation.  Try measuring the power with a keydown
condition rather than using TUNE and you will find the power output more
consistent, and it should be close to the requested power if the load is 50
ohms resistive.

I might add that I have found the base K2 (RF probe type) provides a very
good measurement of power if the dummy load is truly 50 ohms non-reactive.

With the either KAT2, KPA100, or KAT100 installed, the power is measured
through a true wattmeter circuit rather than an RF probe type detector, so
the dependency on having a non-reactive load is greatly reduced, and after
proper calibration will provide accurate power measurements.

73,
Don W3FPR

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[Elecraft] FD fer N4HY

2005-06-28 Thread Robert McGwier

Well I got my batteries and my K2 and thought I would head
over this year for a low key effort at the Sarnoff Radio Club.
The only operating I did was calling LOOONNN
distance on the big white telephone with the worst case
of food poisoning I have ever had (including one that
dang near killed me when Montezuma got mad with me).
Three days later, and 15 pounds lighter (that means only
about sixty to go) I have enough strength to type this
letter.  WHEW.  I would not wish this on my worst enemy.

I am enjoying reading of your exploits however.  Thanks
for sharing them and the pictures.

Bob
N4HY




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[Elecraft] Summary of fiberglass poles

2005-06-28 Thread Tom Arntzen
Hi everyone.
First of all thanks to everyone that responded to my query abt. fiberglass 
poles.

With the help from you all I was able to make a choice.
My decission went in favor of the heavy duty spider pole 12 meter high.

Low weight and short transport lenght was main reasons.
That it was able to support smal vhf beams at 10 meter height ( strenght) was 
another reason.

The wonderpole would be my choice if it hadn't been for the lenght on collapsed 
position (2m).

While ordering I went for 2 poles. ( Saving shipment money).

Thanks again!
Tom LA1PHA
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Re: [Elecraft] Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-28 Thread Tom Arntzen
As long the operator and everything in 1000 feet radius doesn't go up in 
smoke!  :-)


Tom LA1PHA

- Original Message - 
From: wayne burdick [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Kevin Rock [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Cc: Elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED]; 
glowbugs [EMAIL PROTECTED]

Sent: Tuesday, June 28, 2005 5:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Battery vs Ultracapacitor




Hi Kevin,

One day we may be running our rigs from ultracapacitors instead of 
batteries.  They recharge extremely rapidly.  They store charge for a 
long period of time.  And they discharge at rates that put the best 
batteries to shame.  If you need high amperage devices (think your 100 
watt rig on transmit) these will fill the bill


I think your calculations are right. Meanwhile (next 5 years), I'll put my 
money on miniature fuel cells. They're already available for some 
applications, such as mobile of recharging cell phone batteries. There are 
fuel-cell-powered bicycles under development, too.


For example, I think a KBT2-sized power plant might one day power a K2 for 
100 or so hours (rough guess). Just pop in a new hydrogen cell when it 
runs down. Need hydrogen? Split some water molecules with solar energy --  
totally sustainable ham operation  ;)


There are also bacteria that produce hydrogen, when properly trained.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Battery vs Ultracapacitor

2005-06-28 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Tue, 28 Jun 2005, Margaret Leber wrote:


wayne burdick wrote:


There are also bacteria that produce hydrogen, when properly trained.


The problem with that so far has been the feasibility of the nanotech-based 
whip and chair. :-)


To say nothing of the nanotreats to reinforce the desired behavior.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,
Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel
Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] longwire the auto tuner

2005-06-28 Thread John D'Ausilio
On 6/28/05, Lee Buller [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 A longwire is a good antenna if there is a good counterpoise (ground or 
 radials or a large body of salt water).  I have played around with them 
 using a simple 365 pf BC cap and a coil of wire and I can load one every 
 time.
 

I'm staying at a house on the beach in Westbrook, CT for the week .. I
got a 16.5 foot crappie pole from Cabela's, a surf rod holder from
Benny's, tied an 87 foot piece of wire to the eyelet and at low tide
set the pole in the rod holder into the sand. It's been there for 6
cycles of the tides now and it looks like it's holding steady :) The
wire runs over a minimum of 20 feet of ocean, and maybe 55 feet at
high tide.

I have it connected to the red post on my ZM2, and a 17 foot
counterpoise hangs out of the window and is sort of run along the side
of the house (away from the water) attaches to the black post (link to
ground). It tunes fine on 80/40/30/20 with the ATS .. with the KX1 I
tune it by hand and then kick in the ATU so I don't have to manually
retune on 30/40. Guess I really should go over to the radioshaft and
see if they have a banana-to-bnc adapter to see how the KX1 handles it
alone ...

de John/W1RT
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[Elecraft] RE: K2 and KPA 100- How Is Hi Current Generated

2005-06-28 Thread Mike Walkington
Hi Don,

Thanks for your reply. First the easy answers:
I'm using two dummy loads, the primary one being an old fashioned tubular
carbon resistor - about half an inch across and two inches long. Both show a
flat response across the spectrum when scanned with an MFJ-259 analyzer. I'm
using the power meter built into a Kenwood AT-200 Antenna Tuner to measure
power. I use a KAT100 as a tuner though. The AT-200 handbook claims it has
plus/minus 10% accuracy at full scale (20W and 200W) ranges.

By the way, I rechecked the K2 power output and its fine 15W at 160M falling
to 12 or so at 10m.

KPA100 low pass filters were swept with MFJ259 as described in manual and by
you. I used a 51 ohm resistor. Sweeps on other bands seemed OK 1:1.1 and
1:1.2.

My concern re high SWR on 30m and 10m was that the KPA100 might reduce power
if it detected SWR greater than 1.5, but I wasn't sure where this would be
detected.  I'll need to recheck LPF components values, but believe they were
OK. Still, I wouldn't be the first person on the reflector to have misplaced
confidence ;).  I'll also try spreading the torroid coils.  Do you have any
suggestion on which torroid to start with, ie one closest to antenna, or tx
or the one in the middle?

I had fixed the HI Current warning by resetting R26/27 and adjusting bias,
but still wasn't getting the specified power out. Reading back through the
archives there was a suggestion that when setting R26 you should change the
power output each time (to reset the ALC). I did a bit of this but can't
recollect if I did it every time. Still would failing to do this make much
of a difference?

Mike
VK1KCK
K2 #2599


 -Original Reply-

Mike,

How are you measuring power out?  and how good is your dummy load? (check it
with your antenna analyzer) - that will get the first things out of the way
for us.

OK, you said you swept the KPA100 low pass filters for 30 through 10 and
found them OK, (well, you found 1.5 or less and I would expect 1.2 or 1.3,
but you will have to tell me how you set up for the sweep before I draw any
conclusions).  What do the sweeps for 160 through 40 meters show?

If you do the sweep as above, you should find the SWR 1.2 or below in most
cases - if not, look carefully at your toroids (count the turns) and triple
check the capacitor values.  I have found on occasion that the SWR on 10
meters can be reduced a bit by judicious spreading/compressing the turns of
the 10/12/15 meter LPF, but the other bands fall into place without any
'tweaking'.  In any case, such 'tweaking' will not improve the KPA100 power
output, but will allow the base K2 to drive through the high power LPF a bit
easier when at the QRP levels. Bottom line here - such 'tweaking' will not
solve whatever problem you have.

I doubt that the new capacitors will solve this particular problem either -
indeed you may end up installing the new capacitors, but if you have a
problem with 160 through 40 meters, the capacitors are not likely to fix it.

The bias control setting on the KPA100 will not produce the symptoms you
describe either - yes it will affect the current drawn by the KPA100, but
remembere that the HI-CUR indication means that the base K2 is drawing too
much current (it is being asked to produce more power than the current limit
will allow)

73,
Don W3FPR



 -Original Message-

 I've just spent the day fine tuning my KPA100 - measuring the output power
 on each band and trying to improve it. Initially I was getting a
 HI Current
 warning on each of the bands from 160 through to 40 (all into a
 dummy load),
 but not on the rest. In all cases the maximum power I could get
 out on each
 band was 50-65W. I reset R26/R27 and the bias current and now the
 HI Current
 warning has gone and power output has improved on most bands to
 70+W, but is
 not yet 100W. Some observations and questions that came up:

 Can someone please explain to me how the HI Current warning is generated?
 Is it likely that my bias current is a little low?
 I swept the low pass filters with an antenna analyser and the SWR
 on 30m and
 10m is about 1.5.  All the components look to be right, and I feel that
 spreading or compressing the turns on the applicable torroids may
 upset the
 associated filters. Is 1.5 too high (I have the previous version of the
 KPA100 firmware)?
 Is the new KPA Capacitor mod likely to help?





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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 noise and remote PA

2005-06-28 Thread Lyle Johnson

I noticed this at Field Day. The club was using a repeater with output
on 146.625. As soon as I turned on the K2 we got hash on that
frequency.
Any suggestions for tracking this down?


You must have an older KIO2 with the 16.289 MHz oscillator. The 9th 
harmonic is 146.60 MHz.


You can change the crystal to 18.432 MHz as used in the later KIO2s, or 
try clamping a chunk of ferrite around the cable at the K2 connector end.


73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 noise and remote PA

2005-06-28 Thread Larry - WA2DGD

Sam,

Funny you should mention that. In my shack, I have the K2 with a KIO2 
and also a 2 meter rig nearby. Whenever the K2 is on, the 2 meter rig 
stops scanning and hangs on 146.625 and just breaks the squelch. As soon 
as I shut the K2, scanning resumes.



Sam Smith wrote:

I noticed this at Field Day. The club was using a repeater with output
on 146.625. As soon as I turned on the K2 we got hash on that
frequency. Since then I have checked it at home with no computers
anywhere around and confirmed the problem.




--
73
Larry
WA2DGD

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[Elecraft] test

2005-06-28 Thread Andy GM0NWI

TEST e-mail only... folks  NO NEED to reply...

Andy[EMAIL PROTECTED]
A.R.S. 
GM0NWI QRP


GQRP No.9576
QRP-L No.2165
ARCI No.10561
Alaska QRP Club No.190
Flying Pigs QRP Club No. FP No. 1061


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