[Elecraft] AT in PA on Saturday
Hello, I am planning on going out on the Appalachian Trail in PA on Saturday. Should be on the air sometime between 13:00 and 14:00 UTC. Look for me on the usual QRP frequencies on 40, 30, 20 & 15. I will be using my K1 and a vertical. I will give 15 meters a try around 16:00 UTC. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ K1 - SN 01011 K2 - SN 01392 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit
Don, Until we get a handle on what is really happening, set CAL CUR to 4 amps for now. It won't really hurt anything as long as we keep the power down to about 5 watts. I don't have an immediate answer for why the HI CUR messages are behaving that way, but we will check it after 160 meters is working - it may be related, but right now it is not informative. We can do the detail de-bugging off-reflector and then you can report the results after it is cured. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: Don Clark [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 3:03 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit > > > One additional note. An additional note. When I tune on 160m, > then tune on > 80m, I get a Hi Cur on 80 m. If I turn the tune off on 80 then > retune on 80 > I get no Hi Cur. I do not get a hi Cur on 160 after tuning on 80m. > > Don > > - Original Message - > From: "Don Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 2:29 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit > > > > Don, > > > > I pulled C13, 14 last night and both were 1300 pf on my meter. > > > > I used the RF probe I contructed from the K2 Elecraft kit parts in 2000. > > > >Voltage > > Component 80m 160m > > > > D640.7 mv57.2 mv > > D740.9 mv57.8 mv > > W6 21.6 mv13.4 mv > > Q5 298 mv 0 > > Q6 1.8 volts .9 volts > > > > Don - KA6AKH > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: "Don Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:42 AM > > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit > > > > > > > Don, > > > > > > With that information, I would suspect the bandpass filter (even if it > > > receives 160 meters fine) - re-check C13 and C14 for the correct value > of > > > 1200 pf. > > > > > > If that does not correct things, use an RF probe or 'scope and compare > RF > > > Voltages between 160 meters and 80 meters with the power set > at about 5 > > > watts. Check at the following points (you can stop at the first one > that > > is > > > substantially lower on 160) - cathode of D6 or D7 first - > then at jumper > > > W6 - then the collector (case) of Q5 - next the collector > (tab) of Q6 - > > then > > > the collector of Q7 and collector of Q8. > > > > > > Let us know where the 160 meter RF is being lost (RF Voltage > > substantiallly > > > less than that on 80 meters) and we can likely home in on the problem > > area. > > > > > > 73, > > > Don W3FPR > > > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > > > > > My K2 is serial 1683. I built it in 2000. With my initial kit, > > > > I added the > > > > SSB capability and the 160 capability; however, since I > didn't have a > > 160 > > > > antenna then, I didn't complete the 160 alignment. I built the > > > > KPA100 over > > > > the weekend and before closing up the rig, I decided to align 160. > When > > > > applying the 2 watts via the power dial and adjusting L3 > and L4, I can > > get > > > > no more than 1.3 to 1.4 watts out. I do receive 160 > signals, and well > > at > > > > that. I compared my K2 to my FT-1000D and the K2 signal is received > > more > > > > strongly. I first reheated all the solder points including those > > > > mods that > > > > were done to the RF board for the 160 capability and the pin > > > > connectors, but > > > > no increase in power. I demounted the toroids on the module, > > > > retinned them > > > > and put them back, but still no increase in power. I tested the > > > > toroids for > > > > continutity on the tinned elements before remounting them, and they > > tested > > > > fine. > > > > > > > > I measure 1.3 to 3 volts at R30 from 1800 to 2000. I connected a > > > > dummy load > > > > in front of the LPF and get the 1.2 watts there. Adjusting the > > > > power knob > > > > doesn't change the output at all. I took apart the LPF and > > > > tested each Cap > > > > and values are fine. L5 is the correct value. I pulled and test > > > > C75, C13, > > > > and C14, all ok. All the Caps in the pre-driver, driver > and power amp > > are > > > > all the correct values. The only one I couldn't check is the one > > between > > > > the 2 power transistors on the bottom of the board. > > > > > > > > The resistance of my relay coils meets the specifications. > > > > > > > > I checked the T4 as noted in the notes on 160 issues on the Elecraft > > > > website, and mine is to spec with the 3 windings for points 3 and > > > > 4. My kit > > > > didn't have the 39 pf cap for one near U5. It has a 68 pf. > > > > > > > > I am outputting th
Re: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit
One additional note. An additional note. When I tune on 160m, then tune on 80m, I get a Hi Cur on 80 m. If I turn the tune off on 80 then retune on 80 I get no Hi Cur. I do not get a hi Cur on 160 after tuning on 80m. Don - Original Message - From: "Don Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 2:29 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit > Don, > > I pulled C13, 14 last night and both were 1300 pf on my meter. > > I used the RF probe I contructed from the K2 Elecraft kit parts in 2000. > >Voltage > Component 80m 160m > > D640.7 mv57.2 mv > D740.9 mv57.8 mv > W6 21.6 mv13.4 mv > Q5 298 mv 0 > Q6 1.8 volts .9 volts > > Don - KA6AKH > > > - Original Message - > From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: "Don Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; > Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:42 AM > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit > > > > Don, > > > > With that information, I would suspect the bandpass filter (even if it > > receives 160 meters fine) - re-check C13 and C14 for the correct value of > > 1200 pf. > > > > If that does not correct things, use an RF probe or 'scope and compare RF > > Voltages between 160 meters and 80 meters with the power set at about 5 > > watts. Check at the following points (you can stop at the first one that > is > > substantially lower on 160) - cathode of D6 or D7 first - then at jumper > > W6 - then the collector (case) of Q5 - next the collector (tab) of Q6 - > then > > the collector of Q7 and collector of Q8. > > > > Let us know where the 160 meter RF is being lost (RF Voltage > substantiallly > > less than that on 80 meters) and we can likely home in on the problem > area. > > > > 73, > > Don W3FPR > > > > > -Original Message- > > > > > > My K2 is serial 1683. I built it in 2000. With my initial kit, > > > I added the > > > SSB capability and the 160 capability; however, since I didn't have a > 160 > > > antenna then, I didn't complete the 160 alignment. I built the > > > KPA100 over > > > the weekend and before closing up the rig, I decided to align 160. When > > > applying the 2 watts via the power dial and adjusting L3 and L4, I can > get > > > no more than 1.3 to 1.4 watts out. I do receive 160 signals, and well > at > > > that. I compared my K2 to my FT-1000D and the K2 signal is received > more > > > strongly. I first reheated all the solder points including those > > > mods that > > > were done to the RF board for the 160 capability and the pin > > > connectors, but > > > no increase in power. I demounted the toroids on the module, > > > retinned them > > > and put them back, but still no increase in power. I tested the > > > toroids for > > > continutity on the tinned elements before remounting them, and they > tested > > > fine. > > > > > > I measure 1.3 to 3 volts at R30 from 1800 to 2000. I connected a > > > dummy load > > > in front of the LPF and get the 1.2 watts there. Adjusting the > > > power knob > > > doesn't change the output at all. I took apart the LPF and > > > tested each Cap > > > and values are fine. L5 is the correct value. I pulled and test > > > C75, C13, > > > and C14, all ok. All the Caps in the pre-driver, driver and power amp > are > > > all the correct values. The only one I couldn't check is the one > between > > > the 2 power transistors on the bottom of the board. > > > > > > The resistance of my relay coils meets the specifications. > > > > > > I checked the T4 as noted in the notes on 160 issues on the Elecraft > > > website, and mine is to spec with the 3 windings for points 3 and > > > 4. My kit > > > didn't have the 39 pf cap for one near U5. It has a 68 pf. > > > > > > I am outputting the K2 to a dummy load during my transmit tests. My > power > > > supply is outputting 13.8 volts. > > > > > > Don - KA6AKH > > > > > -- > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.15/81 - Release Date: 8/24/2005 > > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit
Don, I pulled C13, 14 last night and both were 1300 pf on my meter. I used the RF probe I contructed from the K2 Elecraft kit parts in 2000. Voltage Component 80m 160m D640.7 mv57.2 mv D740.9 mv57.8 mv W6 21.6 mv13.4 mv Q5 298 mv 0 Q6 1.8 volts .9 volts Don - KA6AKH - Original Message - From: "W3FPR - Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Don Clark" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:42 AM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit > Don, > > With that information, I would suspect the bandpass filter (even if it > receives 160 meters fine) - re-check C13 and C14 for the correct value of > 1200 pf. > > If that does not correct things, use an RF probe or 'scope and compare RF > Voltages between 160 meters and 80 meters with the power set at about 5 > watts. Check at the following points (you can stop at the first one that is > substantially lower on 160) - cathode of D6 or D7 first - then at jumper > W6 - then the collector (case) of Q5 - next the collector (tab) of Q6 - then > the collector of Q7 and collector of Q8. > > Let us know where the 160 meter RF is being lost (RF Voltage substantiallly > less than that on 80 meters) and we can likely home in on the problem area. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > > -Original Message- > > > > My K2 is serial 1683. I built it in 2000. With my initial kit, > > I added the > > SSB capability and the 160 capability; however, since I didn't have a 160 > > antenna then, I didn't complete the 160 alignment. I built the > > KPA100 over > > the weekend and before closing up the rig, I decided to align 160. When > > applying the 2 watts via the power dial and adjusting L3 and L4, I can get > > no more than 1.3 to 1.4 watts out. I do receive 160 signals, and well at > > that. I compared my K2 to my FT-1000D and the K2 signal is received more > > strongly. I first reheated all the solder points including those > > mods that > > were done to the RF board for the 160 capability and the pin > > connectors, but > > no increase in power. I demounted the toroids on the module, > > retinned them > > and put them back, but still no increase in power. I tested the > > toroids for > > continutity on the tinned elements before remounting them, and they tested > > fine. > > > > I measure 1.3 to 3 volts at R30 from 1800 to 2000. I connected a > > dummy load > > in front of the LPF and get the 1.2 watts there. Adjusting the > > power knob > > doesn't change the output at all. I took apart the LPF and > > tested each Cap > > and values are fine. L5 is the correct value. I pulled and test > > C75, C13, > > and C14, all ok. All the Caps in the pre-driver, driver and power amp are > > all the correct values. The only one I couldn't check is the one between > > the 2 power transistors on the bottom of the board. > > > > The resistance of my relay coils meets the specifications. > > > > I checked the T4 as noted in the notes on 160 issues on the Elecraft > > website, and mine is to spec with the 3 windings for points 3 and > > 4. My kit > > didn't have the 39 pf cap for one near U5. It has a 68 pf. > > > > I am outputting the K2 to a dummy load during my transmit tests. My power > > supply is outputting 13.8 volts. > > > > Don - KA6AKH > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.15/81 - Release Date: 8/24/2005 > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hot KPA100 Resistor
I have noticed that the R13, 100 ohm, 3 watt resistor that is mounted longitudinally in front of the fan gets right hot. Maybe this is why it is placed in front of the fan. I can't keep my finger on it for any length of time when the amp has been on for a period of time in sideband or cw service. The K2/100-1 LCD readout shows 13.1 volts @ 480 ma in receive mode with the amp in the circuit. The readout shows 13.1 volts @ 680 to 700 ma with PTT engaged in SSB (no modulation). ALL options have been installed in this K2. If 200 ma flows through this resistor, I calculate this resistor is consuming 2.62 watts or more which means it is operating near its power rating. I just wanted to pass along this observation. Roy Morris W4WFB No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.16/83 - Release Date: 8/26/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 and SWR protection?
Hello! I installed "standard" MFJ's G5RV antenna. Middle point is about 10 meters from ground level. One end is a bit lower, another is at 10m. In the bottom of 450 ohm ladder line there is a choke: http://ugly.blerp.org/~oh6kxl/choke_balun.jpg After the choke I installed about 20 meters of RG213. It'll be replaced by shorter and better coaxial later. I don't have KAT2 or another antenna tuner in line with G5RV. K2 is giving full output _according_ to requested power and RF LEDs in all hf bands with exception in 18 MHz where K2 is giving only 8 according to power meter when pressing TUNE. I understand K2 will decrease output due to improper load in 18 MHz. But why this doesn't happen in other bands? 20 meters of RG213 between choke and K2 surely transfer some of the RF power to heat. According to my understandig from past ham radio years there should be more SWR-related power limitations in this situation. Comments, please? Rolf Moberg oh6kxl, K2 #4759 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Low power version of solar controller
Hi I have a quantity of circuit boards for a early version of my solar controller. This controller uses the same chip and design as the controller I currently sell except it will only handle 1.5 amps and does not have the circuit to turn off the charge indicator LED when the solar panel is supplying less than 11.5 volts. This controller can handle solar panels up to about 25 watts and would be ideal for use with one or two Volkswagen panels or one of the small 5-10 watt trickle charge panels sold by Harbor Freight or Northern Tool. This would be plenty of power to charge a 2-10 amp hour SLA battery for use on a QRP K2, K1 or KX1. With a 35 amp hour gel cell battery and a 15-25 watt panel you could run a K2/100 several hours per day with no other source of power. The controller kit includes a fiberglass silk screened and solder masked circuit board and all parts on the board, assembly instructions and schematic. There is a terminal block for easy connection to your panel and battery. The circuit does not generate any RF noise and uses a precision voltage regulator IC and a 45 amp power FET to control the charging current. I am selling these kits for $16 including postage con US while quantity lasts. When these are gone I will not make any more of this version although the 200 watt version I will continue to supply at $30 Check or money order only. Sorry no credit cards or PayPal Don Brown 19132 Falls Creek Drive Flint, Texas 75762 Thanks Don ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working
Tom, Here at work I tried the cable with and without the jumper - no difference. I confirmed the 5th step on page 11. It is indeed set for U8-4 instead of U6-25. I also tried it here at work on another machine. It's a pIII something or other. It's a desktop PC. It has two serial ports. I verified all the port setings in device manager matches what is called for in the manual - no dice. We use this machine all the time to connect hyperterminal to routers and such, so I know the port is good. I double checked the voltages on the KIO2 and everything looks as it should... I'm pretty confused.. James Kern KB2FCV -Original Message- From: tom.w3qs [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 11:02 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working Well James, About the jumper, I doubt if it's your problem. I put the jumper in and have tried several programs and have no issues with it. I don't, however, key the transmitter from the keyboard. Of course you could always lift one side and check. You should also confirm that the 5th step on page 11 results in seeing U8-4 instead of U6-25. Somehow mine got switched back to U6-25 and nothing worked until I changed it back. At this point, I would definitely suspect your laptop. How old is it? The last laptop I bought in 1999 didn't have a serial port. Are you using a USB emulator? Tom -Original Message- From: James Kern [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 8:53 AM To: 'tom.w3qs' Cc: 'Elecraft' Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working Yeah everything at least appears to be ok on the K2. The voltages seem to line up relatively close. I'm not sure if pin 2 of J1 is supposed to change from -9 volts to +13 volts when anything is changed on the k2 (frequency, mode, etc).. But it appears to be doing something. My only bit of confusion is whether having the jumper on pin 7 & 8 of the PC side serial cable connector has anything to do with my problem? James Kern Network Administrator Kurt S. Adler, Inc. 1107 Broadway New York, NY 10010 212-924-0900 x222 (work) 212-807-0575 (fax) 908-451-6801 (cell) 800-209-7438 (pager) [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: tom.w3qs [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working Hi James, If everything on the K2 side is OK and you wired up the serial cable correctly, the problem pretty much has to be in your laptop. First, check Device Manager to see if you have any COM ports listed (it's not enough to just have a physical serial connector on the laptop). While you are there, if any are listed, make a note of the numbers - probably 1. Then in the set up for whatever program you are using, make sure that that number is selected. Hope the simple approach works. Tom, W3QS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 11:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: 'Elecraft' Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working Alright, I got the choke installed and I now get voltage out to the pins. I still cannot connect with my laptop, but I'm going to bring the K2 into work tommorrow. The voltages I get on J1 are as follows: Pin 1: 0 Pin 2: -9.96 or 13.68 (It changes as I move the dial or change anything on the K2) Pin 3: .01 Pin 4: 5.59 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: 5.71 Pin 7: 0.01 Pin 8: 14.24 Pin 9: 8.07 I had a 14V Supply in the K2 and had nothing connected to the J1. I can still hear the oscillation at 16.292 mhz. I did install the jumper between pins 7 and 8 on the PC side of the serial connector if that makes any difference. Do I have to change anything on the computer for that? I see this choice was optional.. Thanks, James KB2FCV - Original Message - From: James Kern <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, August 25, 2005 3:42 pm Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working > Well the replacement choke arrived here at the office today. I'll post > an update when I get home tonight (The soldering iron will be warming > up the second I walk through the door!.. Alright.. Well, after I say > hello to my > wife!) > > James Kern > Network Administrator > Kurt S. Adler, Inc. > 1107 Broadway > New York, NY 10010 > 212-924-0900 x222 (work) > 212-807-0575 (fax) > 908-451-6801 (cell) > 800-209-7438 (pager) > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > -Original Message- > From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 7:28 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working > > > James: > > If you want, and are really 'antsy', you can temporarily replace L2 > with a jumper and continue with your testing. Just remember to REPLACE > it when the new RFC arrives. > > When you install the new RFC... bend it's leads with your fingers and > solder it in place quickly... 2-3 seconds, max. > > 73, > > Tom N0SS > >
Re: [Elecraft] Compromise/Limited Space/Make My Day Antenna Advice
On Tue, 23 Aug 2005, Thom R LaCosta wrote: I could use a suggestion or twoI live in a very congested areamy house is 11 foot wide and 25 feet long...with a yard that is 10 feel deepI have a 10 by 10 deck on the second floor. Thanks to all for the many suggestionsI'll post to the list what seems to work bestit looks like there are many more possibilities than I imaginedwhich is an indication of how this list can be of assistance. Thanks for the help. 73,Thom-k3hrn www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page, Free Classified Ads for amateur radio, QRP IRC channel Elecraft Owners Database www.tlchost.net/hosting/ *** Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working
Yeah everything at least appears to be ok on the K2. The voltages seem to line up relatively close. I'm not sure if pin 2 of J1 is supposed to change from -9 volts to +13 volts when anything is changed on the k2 (frequency, mode, etc).. But it appears to be doing something. My only bit of confusion is whether having the jumper on pin 7 & 8 of the PC side serial cable connector has anything to do with my problem? James Kern Network Administrator Kurt S. Adler, Inc. 1107 Broadway New York, NY 10010 212-924-0900 x222 (work) 212-807-0575 (fax) 908-451-6801 (cell) 800-209-7438 (pager) [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Original Message- From: tom.w3qs [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, August 26, 2005 7:36 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working Hi James, If everything on the K2 side is OK and you wired up the serial cable correctly, the problem pretty much has to be in your laptop. First, check Device Manager to see if you have any COM ports listed (it's not enough to just have a physical serial connector on the laptop). While you are there, if any are listed, make a note of the numbers - probably 1. Then in the set up for whatever program you are using, make sure that that number is selected. Hope the simple approach works. Tom, W3QS -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, August 25, 2005 11:11 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Cc: 'Elecraft' Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working Alright, I got the choke installed and I now get voltage out to the pins. I still cannot connect with my laptop, but I'm going to bring the K2 into work tommorrow. The voltages I get on J1 are as follows: Pin 1: 0 Pin 2: -9.96 or 13.68 (It changes as I move the dial or change anything on the K2) Pin 3: .01 Pin 4: 5.59 Pin 5: 0 Pin 6: 5.71 Pin 7: 0.01 Pin 8: 14.24 Pin 9: 8.07 I had a 14V Supply in the K2 and had nothing connected to the J1. I can still hear the oscillation at 16.292 mhz. I did install the jumper between pins 7 and 8 on the PC side of the serial connector if that makes any difference. Do I have to change anything on the computer for that? I see this choice was optional.. Thanks, James KB2FCV - Original Message - From: James Kern <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Date: Thursday, August 25, 2005 3:42 pm Subject: RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working > Well the replacement choke arrived here at the office today. I'll post > an update when I get home tonight (The soldering iron will be warming > up the second I walk through the door!.. Alright.. Well, after I say > hello to my > wife!) > > James Kern > Network Administrator > Kurt S. Adler, Inc. > 1107 Broadway > New York, NY 10010 > 212-924-0900 x222 (work) > 212-807-0575 (fax) > 908-451-6801 (cell) > 800-209-7438 (pager) > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > -Original Message- > From: Tom Hammond [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Thursday, August 18, 2005 7:28 AM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working > > > James: > > If you want, and are really 'antsy', you can temporarily replace L2 > with a jumper and continue with your testing. Just remember to REPLACE > it when the new RFC arrives. > > When you install the new RFC... bend it's leads with your fingers and > solder it in place quickly... 2-3 seconds, max. > > 73, > > Tom N0SS > > At 08:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: > >Wow you guys are good! Heh, can't believe I missed that, but then > again > >I build better than I diagnose! It was L2. No continuity at all. > I > >checked the other inductors and they are fine. I called up > Elecraft and > >tommorrow they will be sending a new one (or two) in the mail. > >Hopefully that will solve the problem as everything else voltage- > wise > >checks out as it should. Thanks to all and I will update when I > get the > >replacement part installed. 73, > > > >James KB2FCV > >- Original Message - > >From: Jack Brindle <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > >Date: Wednesday, August 17, 2005 12:38 pm > >Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 not working > > > > > I agree with Don's analysis. Everything looks good around the > > > MAX1406 transceiver. Since you have -9 volts or so at the > output > > > (pin 5), and > > > zero on the pin it feeds, there must be something amiss in > between.> > > > > The small inductors are easy to break - this might be the > problem, > > > as could be missing or 'bad' solder joints on either side of the > > > inductor or at J1 pin 2 itself. Use a VOM or ZDVM to make sure > that> > > > > L2 has continuity (might as well check L3 and L4 at the same > time),> > > > > then recheck the solder joints. If the inductor is bad, I'm > sure > > > Scott will be happy to get you going with a good one... > > > > > > Good luck! > > > > > > - Jack Brindle, W6FB > > > --- > - > > > > > > - > > > > > > > > > > > > >_
RE: [Elecraft] 160 meter low transmit
Don, With that information, I would suspect the bandpass filter (even if it receives 160 meters fine) - re-check C13 and C14 for the correct value of 1200 pf. If that does not correct things, use an RF probe or 'scope and compare RF Voltages between 160 meters and 80 meters with the power set at about 5 watts. Check at the following points (you can stop at the first one that is substantially lower on 160) - cathode of D6 or D7 first - then at jumper W6 - then the collector (case) of Q5 - next the collector (tab) of Q6 - then the collector of Q7 and collector of Q8. Let us know where the 160 meter RF is being lost (RF Voltage substantiallly less than that on 80 meters) and we can likely home in on the problem area. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > > My K2 is serial 1683. I built it in 2000. With my initial kit, > I added the > SSB capability and the 160 capability; however, since I didn't have a 160 > antenna then, I didn't complete the 160 alignment. I built the > KPA100 over > the weekend and before closing up the rig, I decided to align 160. When > applying the 2 watts via the power dial and adjusting L3 and L4, I can get > no more than 1.3 to 1.4 watts out. I do receive 160 signals, and well at > that. I compared my K2 to my FT-1000D and the K2 signal is received more > strongly. I first reheated all the solder points including those > mods that > were done to the RF board for the 160 capability and the pin > connectors, but > no increase in power. I demounted the toroids on the module, > retinned them > and put them back, but still no increase in power. I tested the > toroids for > continutity on the tinned elements before remounting them, and they tested > fine. > > I measure 1.3 to 3 volts at R30 from 1800 to 2000. I connected a > dummy load > in front of the LPF and get the 1.2 watts there. Adjusting the > power knob > doesn't change the output at all. I took apart the LPF and > tested each Cap > and values are fine. L5 is the correct value. I pulled and test > C75, C13, > and C14, all ok. All the Caps in the pre-driver, driver and power amp are > all the correct values. The only one I couldn't check is the one between > the 2 power transistors on the bottom of the board. > > The resistance of my relay coils meets the specifications. > > I checked the T4 as noted in the notes on 160 issues on the Elecraft > website, and mine is to spec with the 3 windings for points 3 and > 4. My kit > didn't have the 39 pf cap for one near U5. It has a 68 pf. > > I am outputting the K2 to a dummy load during my transmit tests. My power > supply is outputting 13.8 volts. > > Don - KA6AKH > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.344 / Virus Database: 267.10.15/81 - Release Date: 8/24/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Sorry for the off topic message
I know this is a stretch but I have a Brown Brothers CTL-A key that has a broken beam. The left side beam broke when the key fell off the table. I have looked for several years for a replacement beam but cannot seem to find a key that is in rough shape being sold for parts. Anybody out there have an old Brown Brothers key that matches the iambic side of the CTL-A key they want to sell? I can send a photo of what the key should look like if needed. Hopefully someone will send a reply. I am running out of options. 73, Charlie, W0YG..>> ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KNB2
Following my previous post about the effectiveness of the noise blanker in the presence of severe electrical interference I changed the value of C12 to 0.47. In all cases except one particular train configuration I can now operate. The "small holes" being made in the received signal turn ssb into very gravely audio and the cw into almost raw ac like spark transmissions of old. I can live with this as it is better than not being able to operate at all. 73 Max M/ZL4VV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
