RE: [Elecraft] Butane torch for stripping/tinning magent wire

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

John, W1RT wrote:

I'm no metallurgist, but I'd do some testing to make sure that temp doesn't
make the copper weird and brittle. Seems to me that I've had magnet wire go
brittle in the flame of a butane lighter. Wiggle around a stripped piece and
make sure it doesn't snap off easily ..



Excellent point. I have seen copper crystallize, apparently from heat.

Something that I've noticed that keeps me from cooking the wires with too
hot a flame is that the copper will oxidize so badly it's very hard to get
it to take solder. I've had to scrape the oxidation off of copper that had
been really hot in order to tin it using rosin flux!

That's sort of going around in circles if the objective was to tin enameled
wire! 

The Number 1 Trick I've found that lets me heat-strip my toroid wires
quickly and easily is to first scrape to the wire. I just scrape it along
the length once. Normally I use a small blade screwdriver. I trap the wire
between the screwdriver blade and the bench top and, starting from the core
or wherever I want to start stripping, drag the blade to the end to take of
one strip of enamel. 

Then I go ahead with the solder blob method. I find that the bit of bare
wire lets the wire heat a lot faster so it burns off the enamel from the
inside as much as the solder blob does from the outside...and there's that
much less enamel to burn . 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering stations

[Alexandra Carter]

WRONG. You do have to change the tip on the Magnetrol type Weller 
stations, of which the WTCPT is one, that's the beauty of it - no 
nimrod technicians cranking a variable control up to 900 degrees and 
lifting pads. I was just in fry's today buying two tips for my own 
beloved WTCPT, a 700 degree fine point tip and an 800 degree flat tip. 
73 de Alex NS6Y (whose KX1 LED turns out to be white after all).



On Apr 15, 2006, at 3:13 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:


Jerry WA2DKG wrote:
Once again I read about having to change the tip in the Weller WTCP
soldering station in order to change the temperature...This is just 
not so

and makes me wonder if I am listening to someone who has never used the
Weller...I have both the Weller WTCP and the Hakko 936 and the Weller 
wins,
hands down...In my working days, over 40 years of soldering, I used 
Wellers,
Paces, Edsyns, you name it, the Weller WTCP is my first choice...And, 
it is

MADE IN THE USA!!!...



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Re: [Elecraft] Butane torch for stripping/tinning magent wire

[John D'Ausilio]

I'm no metallurgist, but I'd do some testing to make sure that temp
doesn't make the copper weird and brittle. Seems to me that I've had
magnet wire go brittle in the flame of a butane lighter. Wiggle around
a stripped piece and make sure it doesn't snap off easily ..

73 de w1rt/john

On 4/15/06, michael taylor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I just tried my "Solder-It" brand Butane Torch (the flaming kind, not
> a flashlight) for stripping the insulation and tinning magnet wire. It
> burned through the insulation quickly and easily, of course at 1300C
> (a warm 2500F) that is not too surprising. I would recommend it to
> anyone who has trouble with stripping/tinning magnet wire for their
> toroids.
>
> The model I picked up was roughly 5 inches tall Solder-It PT-200 from
> Canadian Tire, but there is smaller (~3 inches tall) cheaper model
> called Turbo-Lite that appears to works as well just with a smaller
> tank. The features that sold me on getting one was the hands-free use
> and the electronic ignition.
>
>  
>  
>
> They appear to be ham owned too.
>   
>
> No affiliation with Solder-It other than a happy customer.
>
> -Michael Taylor
>  VE3TIX
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[Elecraft] K2 #2864 for sale

[Tony Osman]

For sale, K2 #2864 good condition with KPA-100, KTA100-1, KSB2,  
K160RX,  KDSP2.   Very  happy with rig, selling due to house move. Good 
results in many CW contests.  Price $1500.00 US shipping extra.


Tony, VE3RZ




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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Afternoon,
   This epistle is earlier than normal since I have no idea when I will be 
back home this evening.  I am off to Beaverton.  Hopefully I will not get 
too lost in the big city ;)  I find it much easier to negotiate the 
forests and hills than I do city streets.  I have a map to follow which 
can be good or bad.  A compass and a topo map would be easier but the land 
is so flat there are not many landmarks!  If you do not hear from me 
tomorrow afternoon send out the search and rescue folks.  I may have 
gotten stuck in a cul-de-sac :)
   The flowers are starting to open, the hummingbirds are feeding, and the 
snow is falling.  It must be Spring.  The marshland is alive with the 
sound of frogs and waterfowl.  Birds are searching for nest making 
materials too. One of these days the snow and rain will stop so I can till 
the soil for my garden.  Each year I till it and then erect a cover to 
keep it warm.  One of these years I will construct another, larger 
greenhouse to make life easier for me.  Then I will have to fight off the 
burrowing animals who love to eat my root crops.  I think I'll set some 
mesh panels in around the perimeter to see if that will fend them off.  At 
least direct their path of entry to where I can place a few mole traps.  
That may or may not get their attention.
   The last few days have provided fair to good propagation on 40 meters 
at 7 PM local time.  Hopefully that will translate into good propagation 
for our nets.  Now to wax my antennas so the water does not dilute my RF.


Please join us:
Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT)  7045 kHz

   Until tomorrow,
   Kevin.  KD5ONS
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RE: [Elecraft] Soldering stations

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Jerry WA2DKG wrote:
Once again I read about having to change the tip in the Weller WTCP
soldering station in order to change the temperature...This is just not so
and makes me wonder if I am listening to someone who has never used the
Weller...I have both the Weller WTCP and the Hakko 936 and the Weller wins,
hands down...In my working days, over 40 years of soldering, I used Wellers,
Paces, Edsyns, you name it, the Weller WTCP is my first choice...And, it is
MADE IN THE USA!!!...



Sorry, that was probably me. In a post a few days ago I mentioned needing to
change the tip on the Weller being a disincentive when compared to a
comparably-priced Hakko 936. I was referring to the popular,
moderately-priced WTCPT line that does require tip changes to change
temperatures, but I didn't list it by model. 

I'm a Weller fan from way back. I still own a Weller soldering gun that
works as well today as when I opened the box in 1952. 

I've been around Weller soldering stations much as we know them today since
the 1960's when I worked at Motorola Research Labs. So, in spite of my
owning a Hakko that gets heavy use and works FB, I have no bad comments to
make about Weller. I chose the Hakko on the basis of features vs. price and
discovered that I like the lighter pencil iron even better than the Wellers
I've used, but I'd not suggest to anyone they forsake a good working Weller.


My comments were in response to a post by someone asking about Hakkos in
particular.

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] Butane torch for stripping/tinning magent wire

[michael taylor]

I just tried my "Solder-It" brand Butane Torch (the flaming kind, not
a flashlight) for stripping the insulation and tinning magnet wire. It
burned through the insulation quickly and easily, of course at 1300C
(a warm 2500F) that is not too surprising. I would recommend it to
anyone who has trouble with stripping/tinning magnet wire for their
toroids.

The model I picked up was roughly 5 inches tall Solder-It PT-200 from
Canadian Tire, but there is smaller (~3 inches tall) cheaper model
called Turbo-Lite that appears to works as well just with a smaller
tank. The features that sold me on getting one was the hands-free use
and the electronic ignition.

 
 

They appear to be ham owned too.
  

No affiliation with Solder-It other than a happy customer.

-Michael Taylor
 VE3TIX
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 S/N 5318 FP resistance checks problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Bob,

Everything looks good EXCEPT J1 pins 1-7, 9 and 11-14.  These should not be
zero ohms or near zero ohms.
Check your soldering to see if there is excess solder that might be shorting
things together - that is the most likely cause.  After all, J1 pins 1, 2
and 3 connect only to the AF Gain, so all those should indicate a high
resistance to ground (at this point, the AF Gain control should connect to
nothing else (see the schematic), and pins 4 and 5 go only over to the mic
configuration header position and dead end there because you do not have the
header mounted yet.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I've reached the resistance checks for the front panel on page 28 of the
> manual, and things do not appear to be going well.
>
> I do have the KSB2 kit, so I have installed the front panel parts
> from that
> kit, as directed on page 28 of the K2 manual. I've attempted to
> inspect for
> solder bridges, cold solder joints, and unsoldered components,
> but I'm very
> much a software guy, and don't have a great deal of confidence in my
> inspection abilities.
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Soldering stations

[John [K7SVV]]

My favorite iron is also a WTCP but it is probably older than some of the
folks on this reflector.  The only way to change its temperature is to
replace the tip.  I have four different tips but they are all set for 700
degress.  They are different only in their shape and size.  I only use my
Hakko 936 when I am working with surface mount devices.  I will be using the
WTCP next week when the K2 I ordered this morning arrives.  I just can't be
without a K2.

John   [K7SVV]

On 4/15/06, Jeremiah McCarthy <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Once again I read about having to change the tip in the Weller WTCP
> soldering station in order to change the temperature...This is just not so
> and makes me wonder if I am listening to someone who has never used the
> Weller...I have both the Weller WTCP and the Hakko 936 and the Weller wins,
> hands down...In my working days, over 40 years of soldering, I used Wellers,
> Paces, Edsyns, you name it, the Weller WTCP is my first choice...And, it is
> MADE IN THE USA!!!...
>
> The temperature controlling element in the Weller is the tip..If the tip
> is not hot enough, the heater will come on and STAY on until it is hot
> enough...The Hakko's temperature is controlled by a thermostat that is
> mounted on the heater  up inside the handle...It is controlling the
> temperature of the heater, not the tip, and is at the top of the heater, as
> far away from the tip as you can get...I have had instances with my Hakko
> where the solder wire welded itself to the tip and would not come loose
> until the tip heated more, yet the idiot light on the control unit was
> flashing merrily on and off, indicating it was hot enough...
>
> I use a PTB7 tip in the Weller for 99% of my work, including soldering the
> ground pins on the BNC connectors in the KX1 and the binocular cores in the
> KPA100...I have been using the same tip for years and it never
> discolors...The only time I have ever had to change a tip is when working
> room was the problem...We would have to change the tip in any iron under
> those circumstances, wouldn't we?...
>
> My Hakko 936 is for sale...It has been used once, is effectively new, is
> still in original wraps in the original box, and comes with 2 extra tips and
> a brass-wool tip cleaner, and I will guarantee it...The first $65 dollar
> check takes it...
>
> Jerry, wa2dkg
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>



--
John   [K7SVV]
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[Elecraft] Soldering stations

[Jeremiah McCarthy]

Once again I read about having to change the tip in the Weller WTCP soldering 
station in order to change the temperature...This is just not so and makes me 
wonder if I am listening to someone who has never used the Weller...I have both 
the Weller WTCP and the Hakko 936 and the Weller wins, hands down...In my 
working days, over 40 years of soldering, I used Wellers, Paces, Edsyns, you 
name it, the Weller WTCP is my first choice...And, it is MADE IN THE USA!!!...

The temperature controlling element in the Weller is the tip..If the tip is not 
hot enough, the heater will come on and STAY on until it is hot enough...The 
Hakko's temperature is controlled by a thermostat that is mounted on the heater 
 up inside the handle...It is controlling the temperature of the heater, not 
the tip, and is at the top of the heater, as far away from the tip as you can 
get...I have had instances with my Hakko where the solder wire welded itself to 
the tip and would not come loose until the tip heated more, yet the idiot light 
on the control unit was flashing merrily on and off, indicating it was hot 
enough...

I use a PTB7 tip in the Weller for 99% of my work, including soldering the 
ground pins on the BNC connectors in the KX1 and the binocular cores in the 
KPA100...I have been using the same tip for years and it never discolors...The 
only time I have ever had to change a tip is when working room was the 
problem...We would have to change the tip in any iron under those 
circumstances, wouldn't we?...

My Hakko 936 is for sale...It has been used once, is effectively new, is still 
in original wraps in the original box, and comes with 2 extra tips and a 
brass-wool tip cleaner, and I will guarantee it...The first $65 dollar check 
takes it...

Jerry, wa2dkg 
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Re: [Elecraft] soldering station info

[Alexandra Carter]

I'll second all of that!! Good rundown on slobbering irons.

I deal in electronic surplus and see broken temp-adjustable irons all 
the time, at the same time there are tons of Magnetrol type Wellers out 
there, some as old as I am, still working fine. (Got the tuner, key, 
and first part of my KX1 done with my trusty Weller myself last night.) 
73 de Alex NS6Y


On Apr 15, 2006, at 6:55 AM, G. Beat wrote:


Some comments, each station design has its strengths and weaknesses

The Haako 936 uses ceramic heaters - some users swear by them other 
swear at them.
The true Haako replacement heaters are NOT cheap - and their are 
already Chinese copies of poorer quality (users beware of future 
"cheap" replacements.  IF you drop the iron - the ceramic can (and 
does crack) - causing failures.


The Weller "EC" series (EC1002, EC2002) was discontinued by Weller in 
2002. The Weller WES51 (WES50 earlier) was introduced around 1999 as a 
direct competitor for the Haako 936.  The Pace ST-25 is also of this 
same "class" of station


The price points (~ $90 ) are virtually identical for the Haako 936 
and WES51 (Fry's Electronics still has cheapest price for a walk-in 
store purchase in US)  - both are temperature controlled (knob up 
front) - as well as the Pace.


The WES51 offers a magnetic wand to "set" or "lock" the temperature.  
The replacement iron for the WES51 is $30 .. significantly less than 
the Haako or its heater.


The more expensive units (Hakko, OKI, Weller, Pace etc.) feature 
temperature set-backs


The Weller "TCP" series is still a tremendous bargain (and still made 
after 40 years of production and 50 years after first patent filing.  
Either used or new - any competent Elecraft builder can repair it !
The surface mounted control board (knob and all) stations -- require 
expensive control boards, thermostats or heater assemblies - and MUST 
be properly calibrated for temperature - or the knob has NO meaning !!


w9gb


Sometime simplicity

Like you, I have a Hakko 936. The reason I like it over the Weller in 
a $100
soldering station is for the Hakko's front-panel temperature control 
instead
of changing tips to change temperatures. Of course Weller offers 
front-panel

temperature change too, but at substantially more money than the Hakko.


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[Elecraft] K2 S/N 5318 FP resistance checks problem

[Bob Sosin]

I've reached the resistance checks for the front panel on page 28 of the
manual, and things do not appear to be going well.

I do have the KSB2 kit, so I have installed the front panel parts from that
kit, as directed on page 28 of the K2 manual. I've attempted to inspect for
solder bridges, cold solder joints, and unsoldered components, but I'm very
much a software guy, and don't have a great deal of confidence in my
inspection abilities.

Here are the resistance check results:

U1 pin 129.02K

U1 pin 229.01k

U1 pin 348k

U1 pin 415.4 M

U1 pin 524.3 K

U1 pin 60

U1 pin 70

U1 pin 80.2 ohms

U1 pin 90.8 ohms

U1 pin 10  0.2 ohms

U1 pin 11  0.2 ohms

U1 pin 12  9.85 K

U1 pins 13 - 40 17M - 23M

J1 pins 1-90

J1 pin 10   26.7M

J1 pins 11 - 14  0

J1 pin 15   29.2K

J1 pin 16   29.02 k

J1 pin 17   29.02 k

J1 pin 18   24.36 K

J1 pin 19   2.236 K

J1 pin 20   0.2 ohms

 

Can you suggest the next steps?

Thanks,

Bob

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[Elecraft] WTB -- MC43S Kenwood mic.

[Rick]

Hello all, Looking for a excellent condition MC43S Kenwood mic for my K2.
Let me know what you have and how much. Contact offline at [EMAIL PROTECTED]

73,

Rick

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 KXB-3080

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Nick, G7RZQ wrote:
You can tell why Elecraft prefer the "no wires" design approach, can't
you?:-)

--

A "no wires" design is an easier-to-build design and has the fewest chances
of differences between units since pc-board traces place each conductor in
exactly the same position in every unit built, but it does limit the
flexibility of a circuit to change and be modified. 

Elecraft could have stopped to design a whole new pc-board for the KX1 to
come up with a 4-band unit, then sold a new kit that those wanting to add 30
or 80 meters would have to buy and build. The same was true of many mods to
the K2 over the years that have kept the oldest K2s working like the latest
units built by the addition of a few wires, jumpers and "daughter boards". 

In either case the owner wanting to get the latest features would have had
to buy a whole new rig or, at the very least, done a very expensive upgrade
that would have scrapped much of the old rig.

Adding a few wires led to a much quicker, lower cost and still very clean
design.

As the wise Sage observed, "...all things in moderation..." to which the Ham
adds, "...even wires."

Ron AC7AC



 


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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[alan p]

sorry, I meant to respond directly to Paul VE1DY
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RE: [Elecraft] soldering station info

[G. Beat]

Some comments, each station design has its strengths and weaknesses

The Haako 936 uses ceramic heaters - some users swear by them other swear at 
them.
The true Haako replacement heaters are NOT cheap - and their are already 
Chinese copies of poorer quality (users beware of future "cheap" 
replacements.  IF you drop the iron - the ceramic can (and does crack) - 
causing failures.


The Weller "EC" series (EC1002, EC2002) was discontinued by Weller in 2002. 
The Weller WES51 (WES50 earlier) was introduced around 1999 as a direct 
competitor for the Haako 936.  The Pace ST-25 is also of this same "class" 
of station


The price points (~ $90 ) are virtually identical for the Haako 936 and 
WES51 (Fry's Electronics still has cheapest price for a walk-in store 
purchase in US)  - both are temperature controlled (knob up front) - as well 
as the Pace.


The WES51 offers a magnetic wand to "set" or "lock" the temperature.  The 
replacement iron for the WES51 is $30 .. significantly less than the Haako 
or its heater.


The more expensive units (Hakko, OKI, Weller, Pace etc.) feature temperature 
set-backs


The Weller "TCP" series is still a tremendous bargain (and still made after 
40 years of production and 50 years after first patent filing.  Either used 
or new - any competent Elecraft builder can repair it !
The surface mounted control board (knob and all) stations -- require 
expensive control boards, thermostats or heater assemblies - and MUST be 
properly calibrated for temperature - or the knob has NO meaning !!


w9gb


Sometime simplicity

Like you, I have a Hakko 936. The reason I like it over the Weller in a $100
soldering station is for the Hakko's front-panel temperature control instead
of changing tips to change temperatures. Of course Weller offers front-panel
temperature change too, but at substantially more money than the Hakko.


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Re: [Elecraft] More power for K2

[Trevor Day]

Hi George, your wish is my command :-)
The manual for the FP107 is part of the full manual for the FT107 
transceiver.  I have extracted the relevant bits as a pdf and forwarded 
them to you separately.


Trev G3ZYY

In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, 
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
I came into a cheap old Yaesu FP 107E power supply which works fine, 
except for somewhat low voltage output.  I notice the transformer has 
several taps, but I'm afraid to mess with it, since I have no manual.


I would be beholden to anyone who has a manual for this unit, and would 
be so kind as to send info on how to change the taps for higher 
voltage. Also, a copy of the schematic would be nice.


Many thanks, George, N4YM
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--
Trevor Day
UKSMG #217
www.uksmg.org

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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: April 15 - May 14, 2006

[Ken Newman]

~~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
April 15 - May 14, 2006 
~~

The HOLYLAND DX CONTEST (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Apr 15, z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.iarc.org/
~~
TARA Skirmish Digital Prefix Contest ... QRP Category
Apr 15, z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.n2ty.org/seasons/tara_seasons.html
~~
Michigan QSO Party (CW/SSB)  ...QRP Category
Apr 15, 1600z to Apr 16, 0400z
Rules: http://www.miqp.org/
~~
EA-QRP Contest (CW) ... QRP Contest!
Apr 15, 1700z to 2000z (10, 15 & 20 Mtrs)
Apr 15, 2000z to 2300z (80 Mtrs)
Apr 16, 0700z to 1000z (40 Mtrs)
Apr 16, 1000z to 1300z (10, 15 & 20 Mtrs)
Rules: http://www.eaqrp.com/concurso.htm
~~
Ontario QSO Party (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
Apr 15, 1800z to Apr 16, 1800z
Rules: http://cco.ve3xd.com/oqp/
~~
YU DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Apr 15, 2100z to Apr 16, 0500z and
Apr 16, 0900z to 1700z
Rules: http://arenaqs.com/yudx/index.htm
~~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Apr 16, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Apr 17, 0100z 0300z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~~
Low Power Spring Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
Apr 17, 1400z to 2000z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/lpsprspr.htm
~~
SP DX RTTY Contest
Apr 22, 1200z to Apr 23, 1200z
Rules: http://www.pkrvg.org/zbior.html
~~
Florida QSO Party (CW/Phone) ...QRP Category
Apr 22, 1600z to Apr 23, 0159z and
Apr 23, 1200z to 2159z
Rules: http://www.floridaqsoparty.org/
~~
Nebraska QSO Party (CW/SSB/Digital) ... QRP Category
Apr 22, 1700z to Apr 23, 1700z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/hdxa/index.html
~~
FISTS/EUCW CW QRS Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Apr 24, 0001z to Apr 28, 2359z
Rules: http://www.agcw.de/eucw/euqrs.html
~~
Helvetia Contest (CW/SSB) (Swiss) ...QRP Category
Apr 29, 1300z to Apr 30, 1259z
Rules: http://www.uska.ch/e_index.htm
~~
QRP To The Field (CW)  ...QRP Contest!!
Apr 29, 1500z to Apr 30,0300z 
Rules: http://www.zianet.com/QRP

~~
Alabama QSO Party (CW/PH/Mixed) ... QRP Category
Apr 29, 1700z to Apr 30, 0500z
Rules: http://www.alabamaqsoparty.org/
~~
AGCW QRP/QRP Party (CW) ... QRP Contest!
May 1, 1300z to 1900z
Rules: http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2006/Englisch/agcw-dl_e.htm
~~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
May 2, 0100z to 0300z (First Monday 9 PM EDT)
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/
~~
Ten-Ten International Spring QSO Party (CW) ... QRP Category
May 6, 0001z to May 7, 2359z
Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/calendar.html
~~
7th Call Area QSO Party (Ph/CW) ... QRP Category
May 6, 1300z to May 7, 0700z
Rules: http://www.7qp.org
~~
Indiana QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
May 6, 1600z to May 7, 0400z
Rules: http://www.hdxcc.org/inqp/
~~
New England QSO Party (Phone/CW) ... QRP Category
May 6, 2000z to May 7, 0500z
May 7, 1300z to May 7, 2400z
Rules: http://www.neqp.org/
~~
VK/trans-Tasman Contests (80 M Ph) ... QRP Category
May 13, 0800z to 1400z
Rules: http://home.iprimus.com.au/vktasman/RULES.HTM
~~
Mid-Atlantic QSO Party (CW/SSB/FM) ... QRP Category
May 13, 1200z to May 14, 2359z 
Rules: http://www.maqp.info/

~~
FISTS Spring Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
May 13, 1700z to 2100z
Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html
~~
CQM International DX Contest (CW/SSB) ... QRP Category
May 13, 1200z to May 14, 1200z
Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/cqmidxc.htm
~~
Thanks to SM3CER, WA7BNM, N0AX(ARRL) and others 
for assis

[Elecraft] Circuit details for external RX with a K2

[Dave]

Earlier in April I posted a question asking if anyone had details of 
using a "boat anchor" receiver with a K2. One direct reply asked if it 
was an April Fool joke. Well it wasn't and if anyone would like details 
of a buffer to feed an external receiver in parallel with a K2, together 
with receiver muting relay, an Adobe Acrobat compatible file can be 
found on my web site detailing how to add these circuits to a standard K2.


http://www.astromag.co.uk/k2/K2externalRX.pdf

73 Dave, G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 KXB-3080

[Nick Waterman]

Paul - VE1DY wrote:
> http://www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike/kxb3080.html

You can tell why Elecraft prefer the "no wires" design approach, can't
you?:-)

-- 
"Nosey" Nick Waterman, G7RZQ, K2 #5209.
use Std::Disclaimer;[EMAIL PROTECTED]
An engineer is someone who does list processing in Fortran.
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