RE: [Elecraft] high current with KXB3080

2006-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Rick, KL7CW, wrote

"... whenever I pried the LPF board slightly away from the main board
(1mm??) the 80 meter current dropped to a normal value and power on all
bands was OK.  I never identified the problem, but apparently something was
shorting with the LPF board snug against the main board.  With the LPF board
pried slightly away there is no problem.  I do not think it is a cold solder
joint since I can now tap the boards, wires, torroids, etc and nothing bad
happens.  Perhaps when installing the LPF board against the main board a
piece of tape or other insulation between the boards would prevent a
short..."

---

There should be nothing to short to on the KX1 main board under the LPF1
board. There's only one solder pad under the LPF1 board. That is for the
inductor common lead from the LPF. (Originally it was one of the inductor
lead pads.) I wonder if you were shorting the inductor common lead to
something on the LPF1 board? It's a bare wire that has to bend over a bit to
reach the solder pad. Could it be pushed up against one of the solder pads
on the LPF1 and causing a short until you pull the LPF1 away from the KX1
slightly, which will straighten and move the inductor common lead slightly?

Ron AC7AC

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Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued

2006-04-19 Thread rootboy
Both you and Don made that same suggestion, so I called up Scott today and 
asked him for another of these as well (the man has the patience of a saint).

For grins I took C87 out so that I could isolate the oscillator section from 
the PLL section (U4). I ended up seeing 0Hz for the high range (was 450 -550) 
but still got my trustworthy 12086 for the low end reading. The reason why I 
yanked C87 was because I was concerned that my mistake with C88 might have 
damaged U4. This doesn't seem to be the case. 

So it looks like U4 isn't causing any trouble, and the other good news is that 
the list of original parts left to be replaced is dwindling. :)


Thanks again for all the help,

John


> 
> From: "k4zm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2006/04/19 Wed AM 07:26:45 CDT
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, 
> Continued
> 
> John:
> 
> The other possibility is a bad X1.  Maybe it can't oscillate at that wide a 
> frequency range.  As stated earlier it has to be in the area of the PLL Ref 
> Oscillator because that is all you are looking at in that test. The test is 
> to make sure the crystal can be shifted the proper amount so that the PLL 
> circuits will work properly.
> 
> 73
> Jim Younce K4ZM 
> 
> 
> 

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[Elecraft] high current with KXB3080

2006-04-19 Thread Frederick Dwight
Bruce,
When I built and installed my KXB3080 modification I had high current on 80 
meters...over 900 ma with a 12 volt supply.  However in my case I had high 
power on
80 meters...5 watts and around 4 watts on the other bands.  To troubleshoot 
this problem, I operated the kx1 out of the case for short transmit periods 
with about an 8 volt supply.  I had used a piece of insulation on the 2 close 
wires on the LPF board and verified that this was not my problem.  However 
whenever I pried the LPF board slightly away from the main board (1mm??) the 80 
meter current dropped to a normal value and power on all bands was OK.  I never 
identified the problem, but apparently something was shorting with the LPF 
board snug against the main board.  With the LPF board pried slightly away 
there is no problem.  I do not think it is a cold solder joint since I can now 
tap the boards, wires, torroids, etc and nothing bad happens.  Perhaps when 
installing the LPF board against the main board a piece of tape or other 
insulation between the boards would prevent a short.  I now get between 3.0 
watts and 4.1 watts on the 4 bands with my 13.7 volt supply (current about 600 
ma)  and about 1.5 watts with an 8.2 volt supply.
  I also did the L3 modification and the power resistor modifications.  
Possibly something is shorting on your LPF board.or even the L3 
modification.  For sure I would not test with full voltage, but with a fused 
power supply with something like 7 or 8 volts until you find the trouble.  
  PS...I had fun with my 5 watts on 80 meters for a few days until my 
conservative nature kicked in and I fixed the "problem".  No spectrum analyzer 
here, so who knows  what frequencie(s) my 5 watts was on !!!
Rick   KL7CW   Palmer Alaska   KX1 #  798
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[Elecraft] Steppir Vertical and K-2

2006-04-19 Thread John Wiener
I just discovered the Steppir Vertical on the web.  An interesting  
design: using a copper tape and step motor to vary the height of the  
vertical element.  This can be controlled directly by interface with  
a transceiver.


Does anyone have experience with this antenna and the K-2?  Is the  
K-2 capable of controlling the step motor so that vertical length is  
correctly (and automatically) varied based upon operating frequency?


Thanks!

John
AB8WH
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 SPLIT MODE AND LOGGER 32

2006-04-19 Thread Bill Coleman


On Mar 15, 2006, at 11:09 AM, Brian Mury wrote:


The K2 can support this, Logger32 doesn't - and won't, because Bob
Furzer doesn't like split operation and feels very strongly about  
it (I

know, I'm on the Logger32 development team).


That seems like a very narrow-minded view. Split operation is a fact.  
In certain circumstances, it makes contacts possible that otherwise  
could not happen. (eg major and minor DXpeditions, international 40m  
phone contacts with the USA, many international 80m phone contacts, etc)


A general-purpose logging program ought to make this possible, and  
even convenient for the user.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Bill Coleman


On Apr 19, 2006, at 12:27 PM, Darwin, Keith wrote:


Last night I tried it again and noticed the resonant frequency had
shifted from 7.040 to 9 MHz.


I fought a problem like this with my shunt-fed tower for 80 and 160m.  
Plagued me for months. I finally figured out the problem -- the  
toroid that formed part of the matching network was arcing.


This toroid was two T200-2 cores stacked with 44 turns tapped every  
two turns. The starting and ending turns were adjacent and that's  
where the arcing took place. The auto-transformer action of the  
tapped matching network caused the arc.


I solved the problem by switching to two different inductors, one for  
the 80m and one for the 160m matching network. The 160m inductor is  
now 40 turns on the two T200-2 cores, and there's some space between  
the starting and ending windings.


Arcing problems like this may not be evident at the 20 watts or so of  
the auto-tuner of the K2/100, but show up with 50 or more watts.  
Intermittent problems of this sort are difficult to track down.  
Inspect everything.


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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RE: [Elecraft] KX1 low transmit power with KXB3080

2006-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Bruce, N7CEE, asked:
I finished the KXB3080 adapter today. Receive seems OK, but transmit power 
into a dummy load is only about 0.2 watts on all bands. (It was about 3
watts 
with the KXB30.)

I suspect a short somewhere because Q6 gets hot and TX current drain is
above 
normal at 850 mA, but I'll be darned if I can find it. The voltages at Q1, 
Q4, Q4, Q5, and Q are normal.

I;ve also done the mod to increase the L3 windings.

I'll have a fresh look in the morning, but meanwhile, has anybody else seen 
this problem?

-

On the LPF1 board, did you check lead L2-1 on the LPF1 board to see if it's
shorted against the solder pad for lead L2-4? L2-1 is the lead that runs
around the end of the LPF1 board to a solder pad right behind it. If you
left the 1/8" on insulation on that lead the instructions called for, you
shouldn't have any trouble there, but if you tinned it up too high and then
pulled the wire tight against the LPF1 board, it can short against that pad.
Just pull it away a bit. One builder who tinned the wire too high took a
very tiny bit of the green wire insulation and threaded it over the L2-1
lead and positioned where it'd prevent the L2-1 lead from being pushed
against that solder pad again. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] Operating Practices (WAS: Is CW a Language? OT)

2006-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Different practices apply to different situations. 

Contributors to the thread have discussed how some contests have a procedure
all their own that often do not apply to any other operating situation. 

Casual nets like the one ECN net that Kevin manages are quite different,
general QSO's are quite different again and traffic nets line NREN require a
whole different protocol. 

We've added another issue over the years; single frequency operation. Some
people assume that anyone who calls them will do so on their frequency.
After all, everyone has a VFO, right? Not right. There are still a lot of
crystal-controlled stations out there who can't zero beat (or in SSB terms
'net') your frequency. 

I always tune around after calling CQ. If I find a rockbound station, I'll
usually tell him/her that I'm going to QSY to their frequency and do so to
avoid using up two frequencies.

Being able to adapt to different operating protocols depending upon the
situation is one sign of an experienced Ham operator. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] KX1 low transmit power with KXB3080

2006-04-19 Thread Bruce Grubbs
I finished the KXB3080 adapter today. Receive seems OK, but transmit power 
into a dummy load is only about 0.2 watts on all bands. (It was about 3 watts 
with the KXB30.)

I suspect a short somewhere because Q6 gets hot and TX current drain is above 
normal at 850 mA, but I'll be darned if I can find it. The voltages at Q1, 
Q4, Q4, Q5, and Q are normal.

I;ve also done the mod to increase the L3 windings.

I'll have a fresh look in the morning, but meanwhile, has anybody else seen 
this problem?

Thanks es 73,
Bruce
N7CEE

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[Elecraft] Re: RE: K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued

2006-04-19 Thread rootboy
Okay, I'll give that a try. 

And as always, thanks for your time.

John


> 
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2006/04/19 Wed AM 07:51:00 CDT
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: RE: K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued
> 
> John,
> 
> It is also possible that you have a sluggish PLL reference crystal.  I don't
> know of a check other than replacing it.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 4:01 AM
> > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> > Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem,
> > Continued
> >
> >
> > I'm back
> >
> > I got the new components (D16, D17, C84, C85, & Q19) from Scott
> > over at Elecraft and installed them. I still got the same
> > readings so I re-read the instructions and checked each and every
> > component to make sure that I had everything installed correctly.
> >
> > I did find one mistake, I had soldered C88 to pins 11 & 12 of U4
> > instead of pins 12 & 13. I relocated the cap and the frequency
> > went up slightly (reading 524 instead of 495). The cap measured
> > ~58 picos (in circuit) so it's in the ballpark.
> >
> > I also touched up a few soldering joints along the way, more for
> > looks than anything else.
> >
> > The voltage readings on pins 1, 2, & 3 of U6 are the same as
> > before, and both variactors seem to be working just fine.
> >
> > Any ideas?
> >
> >
> > Thanks again for all of your help,
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> > >
> > > From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Date: 2006/04/11 Tue PM 08:18:46 CDT
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>,
> > >   
> > > Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL
> > problem, Continued
> > >
> > > John,
> > >
> > > For the time being (until you solve the current problem) the
> > only voltages
> > > at U6 that matter are pins 1, 2 and 3 - and those are correct.
> > The other
> > > pins will likely fall into line after you have this problem
> > fixed and if not
> > > there is another problem with the VCO.
> > >
> > > Right now, the voltages being fed out of U6 pin 1 are correct for the
> > > stimulus you provided (CAL FCTR and tapping BAND+ and BAND-).
> > Now check to
> > > see if that (proper) 0 to 8 volt swing between pressing BAND+
> > and BAND- is
> > > carried on through R19 and then through the RP2 sections and
> > then onto the
> > > cathodes of D16 and D17.  If you get a decent voltage swing
> > between BAND+
> > > and BAND- (you can expect a bit of voltage drop on the 8 volts
> > end) at the
> > > varactor cathodes, then look for something else wrong in the
> > PLL Reference
> > > oscillator (upper left of the schematic sheet - but only as far
> > to the right
> > > as TP3), the PLL chip does not matter until the PLL Reference
> > oscillator is
> > > functioning properly.
> > >
> > > If you do get a good voltage swing at the varactors, then all I
> > can say is
> > > either Q19 oscillations quit when the varactor capacitance is
> > reduced, or
> > > there is something wrong at C84, C85, D17 or D16 which is stopping the
> > > oscillation.  If you suspect Q19 itself, you could try swapping
> > it with one
> > > of the J310s on the Control Board at Q6 or Q7 (these in a less-critical
> > > audio circuit rather than being used as an RF Oscillator).
> > >
> > > 73,
> > > Don W3FPR
> > >
> > > > -Original Message-
> > > >
> > > > Thanks for the help Don. :)
> > > >
> > > > I tried your suggestions (and a few others as well) and L31
> > > > (which is a 12 µHz inductor on my unit) is the correct part.
> > > >
> > > > Diodes D16, D17, & D18, are in properly and pass their in-circuit
> > > > tests just fine.
> > > >
> > > > R19, RP2, R20, R21, RFC14, C84, C85, Q19, RFC14, Q19 and the
> > > > thermistor board are all installed properly and certainly look good.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Scott at Elecraft suggested holding the 4, 5, & 6 buttons while
> > > > turning the unit on (which showed "INFO 201") to see if that
> > > > corrected the problem but no luck there either.
> > > >
> > > > I took reading off of U6 while switching between "BAND -" and
> > > > "BAND +" in "CAL FCTR" mode, and here's what I got:
> > > >
> > > > BAND +, The display reads 488Hz  (Bad)
> > > >
> > > > U6 Readings:
> > > > Pin 1 = 7.63V
> > > > Pin 2 = 4.09V
> > > > Pin 3 = 4.09V
> > > > Pin 4 = 0V
> > > > Pin 5 = 3.96V
> > > > Pin 6 = 4.91V
> > > > Pin 7 = .02V
> > > > Pin 8 = 7.95V
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > BAND -, The display reads 12086Hz  (Good)
> > > >
> > > > U6 Readings:
> > > > Pin 1 = .00V
> > > > Pin 2 = .09V
> > > > Pin 3 = .02
> > > > Pin 4 = 0V
> > > > Pin 5 = 3.96V
> > > > Pin 6 = 3.96V
> > > > Pin 7 = 1.64V
> > > > Pin 8 = 7.95V
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > Pins 2, 3, 6, especially Pin 6, are out of tolerance.
> > > >
> > > > Taking resistance readings off of the thermistor board looks good.
> > > >
> > > > Pins 6/7 to Pin 8 reads about 5k ohms.
> >

[Elecraft] KPA100/KAT100

2006-04-19 Thread Elliott Lawrence
Thanks for all of the input on the project.  If Elecraft has all of the
necessary pieces at the Visalia DX Convention this weekend I will probably
take the leap and buy them!!

Vy 73,
Elliott WA6TLA

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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-04-19 Thread N2EY
In a message dated 4/18/06 9:58:13 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> On Feb 8, 2006, at 10:49 AM, Sandy W5TVW wrote:
> 
> > | However, these days, operating zero-beat on a single frequency, the
> > | long call is just a waste of time. You call CQ DE W5TVW K. I'll
> > | answer AA4LR on the same frequency. Where's the confusion?
> >
> > Perhaps no confusion to you, the sending operator, but a  
> > possible bit
> > of confusion to the operator who called CQ!
> 
> I and many others have THOUSANDS of successful CW QSOs using these  
> techniques.

Me too - running both QRP and 100 W

> 
> >  Firstly, let's assume you have imperfect propagation conditions:  
> > fading, static,
> > whatever.  You might miss my call or get it confused if I sent it  
> > just once.
> 
> On 160m and sometimes 80m, perhaps I'll double the call to AA4LR AA4LR.
> 
> If you only get part of it, you'll send the part you got: 4LR. I'll  
> respond with my full call again: AA4LR AA4LR. The more times we  
> repeat this, the more times I'll repeat my call.
> 
> > Anything else might likely lead to asking
> > you to repeat your callsign, which takes up even more time?
> 
> The point is, especially in a contest, the vast majority of the time,  
> the first call works. And this protocol works well when there are  
> multiple callers, too.
> 

Yep. 


> > Just a one time sent callsign IS bad operating practice and  
> > operating manners.

I disagree - and agree! See below.

> 
> Some of the very best operators I know are contesters, and they ALL  
> do this. It can't possibly be a "bad practice".
> 

I think it really comes down to "situational awareness" - matching the 
operating practices to the conditions.

Under contest conditions where the station holding the frequency is doing a 
run and the conditions are good, the single-call works wonders. At other times, 
long calls are what's needed. It all depends on the situation. The skilled 
operator matches the technique to the situation, rather than insisting on one 
size fits all.

In CW traffic handling, 35 years ago, I was taught to use an even briefer 
procedure during QNI. 

> > Contest conditions are usually frantic, crowded and many times  
> > plain RUDE.
> 
> Well, that's true.
> 

Maybe I'm missing something, because I really only do two contests seriously 
(FD and SS), but I find 99.9% of contest ops to be very disciplined and 
courteous. When VY1JA called for "QRP ONLY" in the CW SS


> > Such things as sections/states and unique member
> > numbers are exchanged.  In the peak of the QRM/QSB I usually always
> > send State and my number TWICE.
> 
> This is kinda a "QRP" mentality -- "I'm weak and in the noise, I  
> better be redundant." That's not always so. Low power and QRP  
> stations can have formidable and readable signals, given reasonable  
> antennas and fair to good conditions.
> 
> In some cases, such redundancy may be helpful, like on 160m. But,  
> mostly, it just wastes time.
> 

Again - it all depends on the situation.


73 de Jim, N2EY
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Re: [Elecraft] SKCC

2006-04-19 Thread Paul - VE1DY
On 4/19/06, Mike Sexsmith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Hello all,
>
>  I have been trying the link on the SKCC website to join/obtain an
> SKCC#, but link will not work for me at all. All other links on the site
> work fine, but this one appears broken. Any one know anything about it? Are
> they done taking members? Any other route to joining? Thanks!
>
>
> Michael Sexsmith
> W7MSX

-

Hi Mike,

Just send Tom an e-mail and ask for an SKCC number.

[EMAIL PROTECTED]

73, Paul

--
QRP-L #2507,  SKCC #91
www3.ns.sympatico.ca/ppike

-

Have you ever wished that Straight Key Night would go on and on and on?

Have you ever wished for other incentives to dig out your old straight key
or old bug and knock the dust off?

Ever wished they had a Straight Key Night more than once a year?

That is a light you see at the end of the tunnel!! Recently, a group of
hams have decided to make their wishes come true and founded the Straight
Key Century Club - a/k/a "SKCC". Yep, a Straight Key club - where you can
dust off your straight key or old bug, and get on the air and torture other
ops with your straight key fist .

Here's how it will work:

A) Open to any interested amateur
B) Membership is free, there are no dues and it shall stay that way as
long as practical.
C) SKCC numbers are issued for life. Once you get it, it's yours.
Take care of it. Above all, USE it.

The first day of each month, at Z will be designated as a monthly
operating event that allows SKCC members or non-SKCC members to work each
other for credit. Contact with 100 SKCC members will qualify that person
for a certificate of accomplishment.

Website: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/skcc/

For membership, send an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
73
KC9ECI
ECI-QRP 028
NAQCC 500
Antiquis temporibus, nati tibi similes in rupibus ventosissimis exponebantur
ad necem
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Mail delivery failure: returning message to sender

2006-04-19 Thread Robert Allbright

Geoff

I can explain, originally I sent this msg to [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
ie I left out the t on net so the msg was returned to me. I then  
forwarded it to elecraft@mailman.qth.net but forgot to chop out the  
delivery failure message! thanks for letting me know - must get it  
right in the first place next time hi!


I really enjoy reading msgs on the Reflector and I must say it was a  
most enjoyable and happy experience building my K2


Today, I actually got around to wiring up the mic socket on the K2  
for my ICOM HM-36 and was pleasantly surprised that it works without  
an extra pre-amp and the LSB and USB sound ok - goes to show that my  
original setup using Spectrogram was satisfactory.


My main modes of operation are nowadays cw + digital modes but must  
really work at my cw!


73 Rob G3RCE

-



On 19 Apr 2006, at 17:36, Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:


Rob,

I don't know if this interests you but I received the following  
'delivery failure' message this afternoon via Elecraft.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD

- Original Message - From: "Robert Allbright"  
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "ELECRAFT" 
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 12:54 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: Mail delivery failure: returning message  
to sender




>

Thanks Bill, Wayne and Chen

I use Cocoamodem 2.0 by Chen W7AY with my G5 iMac and K2 and it is a
delight to use with the 20" screen.

Multimode OSX is also ok and has some additional digital modes

I also use my HP PC laptop mainly for EZNEC

73 Rob G3RCE (K2#5219)

Message: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 23:00:32 -0400
From: Bill Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 and MacOS
To: Robert Allbright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ELECRAFT 

On Apr 12, 2006, at 6:05 AM, Robert Allbright wrote:


Out of curiosity I am wondering how many of you are users of MacOS?
(I'm using OSX 10.4.6) on my G5 iMAC


MacOS X rocks! I use my macs whenever I can. (I have an old Sawtooth
and carry my 12" PB G4 1 GHz into the shack to use Cocoamodem)

I bought my wife an iBook two years ago, and she's become completely
inseparable from it. It changed her life.

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
--
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:22:26 -0700
From: wayne burdick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K2 and MacOS
To: Bill Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ELECRAFT , Robert Allbright
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yup. Me too: G5.

I only use the PC when I have to write firmware or run hardware
modeling software.

Wayne
N6KR
---






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Re: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Randy Rathbun NV0U

-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

Keith,

One thing you might look at, as you said, is the tuner.

I seem to recall wayyy back when I first got my ticket I had a very  
similar antenna issue. I can't remember the details too much, but it  
turned out the tuner was arcing. It was an MFJ tuner of some sort. I  
distinctly remember hearing a buzzing noise from somewhere in the  
shack when I was keying my Century 21. After listening closely you  
could hear popping coming from it.


I traced it to the tuner and pulled the cover off. Once I did that  
the problem went away. Putting the cover on made it happen again, so  
I turned the cover upside down so I could see inside and watch. There  
was a nice 1/8" arc between the coil and case. The fix was easy - I  
tried various things and ended up settling on a piece of cardboard  
between the coil and the case. It was enough of an insulator to stop  
it. Of course, I was just waiting for the day that the cardboard  
would ignite, but it never did.



On Apr 19, 2006, at 3:56 PM, Darwin, Keith wrote:


Good Q's Ron.
I'll find it eventually.  Maybe a bad PL259 on the RG213 coax.   
Maybe an
issue inside the tuner.  One thing is sure, I won't need a solder  
sucker

to fix the problem :-)


Randy Rathbun NV0U
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K2 #1981 KX1#1318
QRPARCI #10776, ARS #895, FPQRP #1292, KCQRP #1


-BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-
Version: GnuPG v1.4.1 (Darwin)

iD8DBQFERqmJ6zTmfegBFIERAujIAKCCbTeCUYHp5v0YslcNgtiKAGcjYwCZAckx
o6OZeTOL1JscJJh+cu2CLug=
=WDNL
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Darwin, Keith
Good Q's Ron.

The antenna is a 28' tall home-brew vertical using telescoping sections
of alum. tubing.  I put Penetrox at all the joints to avoid issues.  No
traps or anything, just a big piece of alum sticking up in the air.  It
is U-bolted to a pressure treated 4x4 buried in the ground.   I have 15
radials buried a couple of inches down.  Each radial is 20 feet long
IIRC.  It's been up since about Nov.

Yes, indeed, narrow bandwidth on a shorter-than-quarter-wave vertical
can be a good sign that efficiency is up.  My antenna is fairly close to
1/4 wave and with only 15 radials, having bandwidth of about 250 KHz at
7 MHz is not unreasonable.  With the bandwidth suddenly dropping to 90
KHz, that sounds like the vertical just got shorter.  I wonder if the
top broke off? :-)

The feedline is bolted to the base of the radiator and the braid is
bolted to the radial plate.  The feedline itself is 6 months old.  I
coated the antenna end of the feedline with coax seal to prevent water
from working its way back up into the coax.  I even mounted the coax a
foot or so up the 4x4 post and brought the connection end down to the
antenna so the water would drip down and off the end rather than back
into the coax.

So I doubt it is an issue with the coax itself.

I'll find it eventually.  Maybe a bad PL259 on the RG213 coax.  Maybe an
issue inside the tuner.  One thing is sure, I won't need a solder sucker
to fix the problem :-)

73!

- Keith -

-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 4:36 PM
To: Darwin, Keith; 'elecraft'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

Keith wrote:
Also, the bandwidth of the tuned system has become much narrower.  I
used to get 2:1 bandwidth across most of the 40 meter band.  Two nights
ago, I struggled to get 2:1 over 90 KHz.



Narrow bandwidth is a sure sign of a reasonably efficient, but
physically small antenna compared to the wavelength. That would cause me
to look at something intermittent in the antenna itself that is
disconnecting part of the radiator. You said it was a ground mounted
vertical. Does it have any traps or other bits beyond a vertical
radiator? I'd sure look for a connection that is opening up, as you
mentioned. Possibly even an intermittent feedline connection to the
antenna. 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-04-19 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Wed, 19 Apr 2006, Chris Kantarjiev wrote:


As a new CW operator trying to figure it out, I am quite sad that the
various ARRL Handbooks don't cover CW operating practices in detail.
I made this offer last time the topic came up, and will make it again:
if an experienced operator would be willing to work with me, I'd love
to write up a "current" version of "Your Novice Accent" - maybe
it's "Your 5WPM Accent" now?

The idea would be to cover much the same topics as Your Novice Accent,
with modern updates, as well as covering common contest protocol.


Since the original publication is on the web in many placesperhaps an 
addendum, rather than a re-write might work


If you go that route, I'd be happy to give it some web exposure at
as an addendum or link to the original article at
www.zerobeat.net/novice_accent.html

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Keith wrote:
Also, the bandwidth of the tuned system has become much narrower.  I used to
get 2:1 bandwidth across most of the 40 meter band.  Two nights ago, I
struggled to get 2:1 over 90 KHz.



Narrow bandwidth is a sure sign of a reasonably efficient, but physically
small antenna compared to the wavelength. That would cause me to look at
something intermittent in the antenna itself that is disconnecting part of
the radiator. You said it was a ground mounted vertical. Does it have any
traps or other bits beyond a vertical radiator? I'd sure look for a
connection that is opening up, as you mentioned. Possibly even an
intermittent feedline connection to the antenna. 

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] KX1 zapped!

2006-04-19 Thread Roger Dallimore
During a QSO whilst in the mountains of North Wales I received a string of 
electric shocks (even through thick gloves) with my KX1 rapidly switching on 
and off. Wisely thinking that this was not healthy I immediately switched 
the KX1 off and pulled out the antenna (66' doublet).


This occurred during a heavy hail shower, a small VHF yagi was crackling 
loudly with static so I guess a static build up was the culprit with my KX1. 
After the storm passed I fired up the KX1 and proceeded to work a few more 
stations but alas it was only showing about 6~700 mW output on all three 
bands.


Not having much experience in fault finding can any kind soul out there 
advise me where to start checking which components might be affected?


Many thanks in advance,

73
Roger  MWØIDX  K3IDXK2 #2724  KX1 #416

http://mw0idx.co.uk
http://sotawales.co.uk 




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Fwd: Re: [Elecraft] KPA100/KAT100

2006-04-19 Thread Mark Baugh
Maybe this will help others on the Reflector, too. 
This was my response to Elliott.


> Elliott,
> 
> Check out:
> 
> http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html
> 
> This is what I used to remote my KPA and KAT.  I did
> use the KIO2 simply to avoid the possibility of
> making
> a mistake in the communications between everything. 
> Also, see http://www.n0ss.net/ for possible
> problems(catastrophic) that can result from
> incorrect
> cables/wiring on the AUX bus/RS232 interface.  Hope
> some of this helps.
> 
> 73,
> Mark Baugh
> W5EZY
> Grenada MS


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 and MacOS

2006-04-19 Thread B. Scott Andersen

The K2 works well with the Macintosh and MacOS X.

I use MacLoggerDX  (http://www.dogparksoftware.com)
for my logging program. This software works fine with
the KIO2 and a USB serial adapter. I've used it successfully
with my PowerMac G5 and my 17-inch PowerBook G4
while traveling.

If you like contesting, you can check out software I have
written called CabConverter
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/cab-converter/) which
will take your log produced by MacLoggerDX and
produces a Cabrillo file for all the major contests.

Additionally, the Logbook of the World is supported
using the TQSL stuff. I think I'm using this:
http://home.insightbb.com/~n9yty/TQSL-1.11-TIGER.zip

I've also been uploading my log to eQSL by just
exporting the ADIF from MacLoggerDX.

In short, the K2 plays nicely with the suite of Macintosh
software available and I've had great luck using this stuff
for all the "normal" things you might do.

-- Scott (NE1RD & owner of a K2, KX1, and unbuilt-as-yet K1)


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Darwin, Keith
Yep, I've done enough testing (and made enough mistakes) at work to have
caught on to the fact that if something has quit working, look first at
what just changed :-)

In this case I do have some good data that points to the antenna.  The
K2 acts like it is seeing very high SWR which agrees with the Palstar
meter which is measuring a large reflected power.  Only the MFJ analyzer
says 1:1 SWR.  I'm swapping at the connector going into the rig so the
analyzer is looking at the exact system the K2 is which includes the
power meter in the path.  If the power meter said low SWR and the K2 was
acting up, I'd suspect an issue with a connector at the rig end.

Then comes the other piece of evidence.  I've notice recently my manual
tuner settings are not holding from day to day.  The system impedance
just magically changes overnight (wind & precip maybe?)  Also, the
bandwidth of the tuned system has become much narrower.  I used to get
2:1 bandwidth across most of the 40 meter band.  Two nights ago, I
struggled to get 2:1 over 90 KHz.

I'll open the case on the tuner to see if ants or spiders have invaded.

I'll check the connections from the coax to the vertical and from the
radials to the radial plate.

I'll lower the vertical (a bit of a pain) to see if any of the hose
clamps have come loose causing the radiator to sometimes act shorter
than it's actual length.

Gee, while I'm out there, I might as well bury another 15 radials :-)

The biggest bummer is all this takes away from operating time.
Fortunately for me, Ham Radio is about lots more than operating!

73 & thanks for the input Don & Ron!

- Keith -


-Original Message-
From: Ron D'Eau Claire [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 

By getting consistently good output into a dummy load, it looks like
you've eliminated the K2 as the likely source of the problem.

I'd suggest you check the connector at the rig end. Problems like this
tend to be associated with whatever it is you are changing to make it
appear and disappear, and that seems to be associated with moving that
cable at the rig end between the analyzer and the K2. 

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[Elecraft] K2 5163 finished!

2006-04-19 Thread Mike Short
I finished it today. After a couple of bouts of bad solder joints( I even
looked again and again), and putting in T4 backwards (Pay attention to the
colors, dummy)
it works fine. Now I need to break out the XG2 and adjust the S-meter, etc. 
 
Mike
AI4NS
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Re: [Elecraft] Is CW a Language? OT

2006-04-19 Thread Chris Kantarjiev
As a new CW operator trying to figure it out, I am quite sad that the
various ARRL Handbooks don't cover CW operating practices in detail.
I made this offer last time the topic came up, and will make it again:
if an experienced operator would be willing to work with me, I'd love
to write up a "current" version of "Your Novice Accent" - maybe
it's "Your 5WPM Accent" now?

The idea would be to cover much the same topics as Your Novice Accent,
with modern updates, as well as covering common contest protocol.

Please contact me off-list if you're interested.

73 de chris K6DBG
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[Elecraft] FS: Full blown K2 and separate EC2/amp/tuner

2006-04-19 Thread nz7c
This is, I think, my 4th K2, it has been checked out by Gary Surrency (which I 
always do as a final step). The K2 has every possible option including battery 
and auto-tuner, except the audio filter (since it has the dsp installed). The 
100w amp and auto-tuner are in a separate enclosure. They both perform 
flawlessly and were built last Spring. I will only sell as a set. Price is 
$1900 plus a little for shipping Conus. Thanks for reading. 73/Tim NZ7C

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[Elecraft] KPA100/KAT100

2006-04-19 Thread Elliott Lawrence
I've read  several articles on combining the 2 units into an outboard 
enclosure.  Does anyone have an order list for all of the pieces that need to 
be purchased from Elecraft to accomplish the job? Don't believe a separate 
serial interface is required?

Thanks,
Elliott WA6TLA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - data mode r bar

2006-04-19 Thread Leigh L Klotz, Jr.
Doesn't the K1 swap the meaning of R and R- on the upper and lower 
bands, or am I confabulating again?

Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Tue, 18 Apr 2006 7:37 pm, Bill Coleman wrote:


On Mar 23, 2006, at 9:35 AM, Bob Towers wrote:
You can set up R and R-bar to be whichever sideband you want -- but I  
suggest LSB and USB, respectively.

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Re: [Elecraft] multiple XV in high-power rover .. anyone else doing this?

2006-04-19 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

Mike, K7MDL, is doing this.  See:

http://mysite.verizon.net/michael_d_lewis/Portable_HF_VHF_Station.htm

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
--

John D'Ausilio wrote:

Especially if driving a short stack of antennae, with near-field
interaction? I'd love to hear from others running similar
configurations to compare notes ..

de w1rt/r john
_


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Keith asked:

My K2 will not give more than a few watts out on 40 meters when driving my
antenna.  Into a dummy load it gives full power.  On 30 meters with a
different antenna the rig is fine.  I wondered if it was a problem with the
rig but I saw some other things that make me think it's an antenna problem.
 
The antenna is a ground mounted vertical fed with 30 feet of RG-213 to a
Heath manual tuner in the garage.  From there, RG -8x takes the signal all
the way to the shack.  I go to the garage with my MFJ analyzer and adjust
the tuner for a match on my operating freq.  I did this and got a 1:1 match
at 7040.  I then went to the shack and confirmed the same SWR at the rig.
 
Hook up the rig, key it and the SWR meter shows very high SWR.  Rig is
generating hardly any power out.  Recheck with the analyzer and SWR is fine.
Hmm.  I'm thinking the issue is power related.  Could it be that my antenna
system has a problem that only shows up when you hit the system with a few
watts and doesn't show when the analyzer hits it with milliwatts?
 
Last night I tried it again and noticed the resonant frequency had shifted
from 7.040 to 9 MHz.  I think it is time for an antenna / tuner / coax
review.

--

By getting consistently good output into a dummy load, it looks like you've
eliminated the K2 as the likely source of the problem.

I'd suggest you check the connector at the rig end. Problems like this tend
to be associated with whatever it is you are changing to make it appear and
disappear, and that seems to be associated with moving that cable at the rig
end between the analyzer and the K2. 

The same is true for when you saw that resonant frequency jump. That much of
a shift would account for the jump in SWR. Look for exactly what you touched
to make that change happen. Perhaps a bad connection in one of the coax
connectors? 

For example, one time I suddenly saw a "problem" with my K2/100 going from
normal operation to "high current" and shut-off when the resettable fuse
opened! I was about to tear into it when my own advice popped into my head
and it gave some thought to what I had been doing. I had made some cabling
changes between the rig and my external ATU. Sure enough, the PL-259 to the
ATU was very loose. It worked some of the time but then the heating by the
RF current or a tiny movement caused by something would make the connection
open and the K2 was looking into a very high SWR and would shut down.
Tightening the connector fixed the problem .

It is possible for a problem like yours to be power related. The RF current
flowing through a bad connection can cause heating and resistance changes
that don't show up at low powers or a partial short at a high voltage point
in either the tuner or antenna can cause that to happen. It can be
band-specific too, since RF current and voltage levels at various parts of
the antenna and tuner circuit change with the band. The only thing to do
there is to start working toward the antenna. Try connecting your rig
directly to the tuner in the garage with a different piece of cable and see
if the problem appears there.  

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Don Wilhelm
Kieth,

If the K2 works fine into a dummy load - and some of your antennas, then the
problem is not with the K2!

You likely have a piece of coax (or antenna) that is failing with power - it
could be an arc-over situation or something like that.  Try moving the dummy
load to the garage first, then on out ot the antenna.  If the dummy load
works fine at those locations, it is not the coax, look at your antenna for
the problem.

The fact that the resonant frequency shifts on you says the most likely
place for the problem is the antenna, but coax can act like a tuned circuit
too, so check it all.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> My K2 will not give more than a few watts out on 40 meters when driving
> my antenna.  Into a dummy load it gives full power.  On 30 meters with a
> different antenna the rig is fine.  I wondered if it was a problem with
> the rig but I saw some other things that make me think it's an antenna
> problem.
>
> The antenna is a ground mounted vertical fed with 30 feet of RG-213 to a
> Heath manual tuner in the garage.  From there, RG -8x takes the signal
> all the way to the shack.  I go to the garage with my MFJ analyzer and
> adjust the tuner for a match on my operating freq.  I did this and got a
> 1:1 match at 7040.  I then went to the shack and confirmed the same SWR
> at the rig.
>
> Hook up the rig, key it and the SWR meter shows very high SWR.  Rig is
> generating hardly any power out.  Recheck with the analyzer and SWR is
> fine.  Hmm.  I'm thinking the issue is power related.  Could it be that
> my antenna system has a problem that only shows up when you hit the
> system with a few watts and doesn't show when the analyzer hits it with
> milliwatts?
>
> Last night I tried it again and noticed the resonant frequency had
> shifted from 7.040 to 9 MHz.  I think it is time for an antenna / tuner
> / coax review.
>
> - Keith -
>

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[Elecraft] multiple XV in high-power rover .. anyone else doing this?

2006-04-19 Thread John D'Ausilio
Especially if driving a short stack of antennae, with near-field
interaction? I'd love to hear from others running similar
configurations to compare notes ..

de w1rt/r john
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Replacement Battery

2006-04-19 Thread Dave

Larry

Maplin and others sell a near equivalent, try Maplin's MM23A 
(www.maplin.co.uk).


73 Dave, G4AON
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[Elecraft] K2 problem or is it the antenna?

2006-04-19 Thread Darwin, Keith
My K2 will not give more than a few watts out on 40 meters when driving
my antenna.  Into a dummy load it gives full power.  On 30 meters with a
different antenna the rig is fine.  I wondered if it was a problem with
the rig but I saw some other things that make me think it's an antenna
problem.
 
The antenna is a ground mounted vertical fed with 30 feet of RG-213 to a
Heath manual tuner in the garage.  From there, RG -8x takes the signal
all the way to the shack.  I go to the garage with my MFJ analyzer and
adjust the tuner for a match on my operating freq.  I did this and got a
1:1 match at 7040.  I then went to the shack and confirmed the same SWR
at the rig.
 
Hook up the rig, key it and the SWR meter shows very high SWR.  Rig is
generating hardly any power out.  Recheck with the analyzer and SWR is
fine.  Hmm.  I'm thinking the issue is power related.  Could it be that
my antenna system has a problem that only shows up when you hit the
system with a few watts and doesn't show when the analyzer hits it with
milliwatts?
 
Last night I tried it again and noticed the resonant frequency had
shifted from 7.040 to 9 MHz.  I think it is time for an antenna / tuner
/ coax review.
 
- Keith -
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Re: [Elecraft] SKCC

2006-04-19 Thread Rick Dettinger
Yes, but I don't think you need to join the Yahoo group to get a number.
Just contact Tom.  He has given out numbers by snail mail and traffic nets
as well as email.  There are over 2000 members now and good mechanical key
activity.  "Rules" are same as ARRL's SKN.   73 - Rick -
K7MW
- Original Message -
From: "W2AGN" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mike Sexsmith" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2006 8:14 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SKCC


> Mike Sexsmith wrote:
>
> > Hello all,
> >
> > I have been trying the link on the SKCC website to join/obtain an
> > SKCC#, but link will not work for me at all. All other links on the
> > site work fine, but this one appears broken. Any one know anything
> > about it? Are they done taking members? Any other route to joining?
> > Thanks!
> >
> >
> > Michael Sexsmith
> > W7MSX
>
>  Mike,
>
> You must go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/skcc/ to join the group.
> (Yep, it's a Yahoo group). Then send an email to KC9ECI,
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] to get your number.
>
> --
>_ _ _ _ _
>   / \   / \   / \   / \   / \   John L. Sielke
>  ( W ) ( 2 ) ( A ) ( G ) ( N )  http://w2agn.net
>   \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/   http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn/
> "CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON - AND PROUD OF IT!"
>
>
>
> ___
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Re: [Elecraft] SKCC

2006-04-19 Thread W2AGN

Mike Sexsmith wrote:


Hello all,

I have been trying the link on the SKCC website to join/obtain an 
SKCC#, but link will not work for me at all. All other links on the 
site work fine, but this one appears broken. Any one know anything 
about it? Are they done taking members? Any other route to joining? 
Thanks!



Michael Sexsmith
W7MSX


Mike,

You must go to http://groups.yahoo.com/group/skcc/ to join the group. 
(Yep, it's a Yahoo group). Then send an email to KC9ECI, 
[EMAIL PROTECTED] to get your number.


--
  _ _ _ _ _  
 / \   / \   / \   / \   / \   John L. Sielke

( W ) ( 2 ) ( A ) ( G ) ( N )  http://w2agn.net
 \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/   \_/   http://www.blurty.com/users/w2agn/
"CRUSTY OLD CURMUDGEON - AND PROUD OF IT!"



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[Elecraft] SKCC

2006-04-19 Thread Mike Sexsmith

Hello all,

I have been trying the link on the SKCC website to join/obtain an 
SKCC#, but link will not work for me at all. All other links on the site 
work fine, but this one appears broken. Any one know anything about it? Are 
they done taking members? Any other route to joining? Thanks!



Michael Sexsmith
W7MSX


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[Elecraft] F/S: KPA100/KAT100 in EC2 Case

2006-04-19 Thread Mark Baugh
Looking to add 100W to your K2? I have a KPA100/KAT100
in an EC2 case w/KIO2 RS232 I/F. All cables and
manuals included. Price is $700 shipped conus. More
pics available on request.

73,
Mark Baugh
W5EZY
Grenada MS

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[Elecraft] Power connector for Pegasus

2006-04-19 Thread J F
Looking for a power connector for a tenTec Pegasus,
would anyone have such a beast (or the entire cable)?
Thanks,
Julius
n2wn 
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Mail delivery failure: returning message to sender

2006-04-19 Thread Robert Allbright


Thanks Bill, Wayne and Chen

I use Cocoamodem 2.0 by Chen W7AY with my G5 iMac and K2 and it is a
delight to use with the 20" screen.

Multimode OSX is also ok and has some additional digital modes

I also use my HP PC laptop mainly for EZNEC

73 Rob G3RCE (K2#5219)

Message: 19
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 23:00:32 -0400
From: Bill Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 and MacOS
To: Robert Allbright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ELECRAFT 

On Apr 12, 2006, at 6:05 AM, Robert Allbright wrote:


Out of curiosity I am wondering how many of you are users of MacOS?
(I'm using OSX 10.4.6) on my G5 iMAC


MacOS X rocks! I use my macs whenever I can. (I have an old Sawtooth
and carry my 12" PB G4 1 GHz into the shack to use Cocoamodem)

I bought my wife an iBook two years ago, and she's become completely
inseparable from it. It changed her life.

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
--
Message: 20
Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 21:22:26 -0700
From: wayne burdick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [Elecraft] Re: K2 and MacOS
To: Bill Coleman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: ELECRAFT ,  Robert Allbright
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

Yup. Me too: G5.

I only use the PC when I have to write firmware or run hardware
modeling software.

Wayne
N6KR
---




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Replacement Battery

2006-04-19 Thread David Pratt
In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Larry Dodson 
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
I wondered if anyone in the UK has found a local source for a K2 
replacement battery that fits internally? Thanks - Larry G0IKE


Yes, Larry, the size is 178 x 34 x 60mm and is available from Maplin as 
follows:


MM23A   12V 2.2Ah SLA  at  11.99ukp
or
XG74R   Yuasa 2.1Ah L/Acid Bat 12V  at  17.99ukp

I have had an MM23A in my K2 for about 5 years and it is still going 
strong.  I normally run my K2 from an external 14.0V supply which keeps 
the internal SLA battery happy.


73 de David G4DMP


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Replacement Battery

2006-04-19 Thread Nigel A. Gunn G8IFF/KC8NHF

It's a standard sealed lead acid, try Maplins.

Larry Dodson wrote:

I wondered if anyone in the UK has found a local source for a K2 replacement 
battery that fits internally? Thanks - Larry G0IKE
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Re: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued

2006-04-19 Thread rootboy
I'm back

I got the new components (D16, D17, C84, C85, & Q19) from Scott over at 
Elecraft and installed them. I still got the same readings so I re-read the 
instructions and checked each and every component to make sure that I had 
everything installed correctly. 

I did find one mistake, I had soldered C88 to pins 11 & 12 of U4 instead of 
pins 12 & 13. I relocated the cap and the frequency went up slightly (reading 
524 instead of 495). The cap measured ~58 picos (in circuit) so it's in the 
ballpark.

I also touched up a few soldering joints along the way, more for looks than 
anything else.

The voltage readings on pins 1, 2, & 3 of U6 are the same as before, and both 
variactors seem to be working just fine. 

Any ideas?


Thanks again for all of your help,

John


> 
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Date: 2006/04/11 Tue PM 08:18:46 CDT
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, 
>   
> Subject: RE: [Elecraft] K2 Alignment & Test, Part II PLL problem, Continued
> 
> John,
> 
> For the time being (until you solve the current problem) the only voltages
> at U6 that matter are pins 1, 2 and 3 - and those are correct.  The other
> pins will likely fall into line after you have this problem fixed and if not
> there is another problem with the VCO.
> 
> Right now, the voltages being fed out of U6 pin 1 are correct for the
> stimulus you provided (CAL FCTR and tapping BAND+ and BAND-).  Now check to
> see if that (proper) 0 to 8 volt swing between pressing BAND+ and BAND- is
> carried on through R19 and then through the RP2 sections and then onto the
> cathodes of D16 and D17.  If you get a decent voltage swing between BAND+
> and BAND- (you can expect a bit of voltage drop on the 8 volts end) at the
> varactor cathodes, then look for something else wrong in the PLL Reference
> oscillator (upper left of the schematic sheet - but only as far to the right
> as TP3), the PLL chip does not matter until the PLL Reference oscillator is
> functioning properly.
> 
> If you do get a good voltage swing at the varactors, then all I can say is
> either Q19 oscillations quit when the varactor capacitance is reduced, or
> there is something wrong at C84, C85, D17 or D16 which is stopping the
> oscillation.  If you suspect Q19 itself, you could try swapping it with one
> of the J310s on the Control Board at Q6 or Q7 (these in a less-critical
> audio circuit rather than being used as an RF Oscillator).
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> > -Original Message-
> >
> > Thanks for the help Don. :)
> >
> > I tried your suggestions (and a few others as well) and L31
> > (which is a 12 µHz inductor on my unit) is the correct part.
> >
> > Diodes D16, D17, & D18, are in properly and pass their in-circuit
> > tests just fine.
> >
> > R19, RP2, R20, R21, RFC14, C84, C85, Q19, RFC14, Q19 and the
> > thermistor board are all installed properly and certainly look good.
> >
> >
> > Scott at Elecraft suggested holding the 4, 5, & 6 buttons while
> > turning the unit on (which showed "INFO 201") to see if that
> > corrected the problem but no luck there either.
> >
> > I took reading off of U6 while switching between "BAND -" and
> > "BAND +" in "CAL FCTR" mode, and here's what I got:
> >
> > BAND +, The display reads 488Hz  (Bad)
> >
> > U6 Readings:
> > Pin 1 = 7.63V
> > Pin 2 = 4.09V
> > Pin 3 = 4.09V
> > Pin 4 = 0V
> > Pin 5 = 3.96V
> > Pin 6 = 4.91V
> > Pin 7 = .02V
> > Pin 8 = 7.95V
> >
> >
> > BAND -, The display reads 12086Hz  (Good)
> >
> > U6 Readings:
> > Pin 1 = .00V
> > Pin 2 = .09V
> > Pin 3 = .02
> > Pin 4 = 0V
> > Pin 5 = 3.96V
> > Pin 6 = 3.96V
> > Pin 7 = 1.64V
> > Pin 8 = 7.95V
> >
> >
> > Pins 2, 3, 6, especially Pin 6, are out of tolerance.
> >
> > Taking resistance readings off of the thermistor board looks good.
> >
> > Pins 6/7 to Pin 8 reads about 5k ohms.
> > Pins 4/5 to Pin 8 reads about 295 ohms.
> > Pins 2/3 to Pins 4/5 reads about 1.96k ohms.
> > Pins 6/7 to Pin 1 reads about 8.76k ohms.
> > Pin 1 to Pins 2/3 reads about 1.8k ohms.
> >
> > All of these readings more or less mathematically work out to
> > what the meter says (with the exception of the second reading
> > which is 8V to Ground so no surprise there).
> >
> > The output from the DAC is 4.092 (4,092 counts), so it's near its
> > top end.
> >
> >
> > My partner suggests removing R19 and inserting a pot to swing the
> > voltage going into the oscillator circuit from 0 to 7-ish volts
> > to see if that stabilizes.
> >
> >
> > I got another suggestion to double check D36 for proper
> > installation. It's in correctly, and checks out (in circuit) okay.
> >
> > Possibly I left a component out, so I'll double check that I
> > didn't skip anything during the installation phase.
> >
> >
> > Thanks again for all the help,
> >
> > John
> >
> >
> 
> 

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[Elecraft] K2 - Replacement Battery

2006-04-19 Thread Larry Dodson
I wondered if anyone in the UK has found a local source for a K2 replacement 
battery that fits internally? Thanks - Larry G0IKE
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