[Elecraft] pictures of the new Elecraft amps

[Joseph Trombino Jr]

Will try again.are there any pictures of the new Elecraft amps posted 
anywhere???


   73, Joe W2KJ 



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[Elecraft] re tokyo hi-power amps

[chris meagher]

I have been using for 2 years, an HL-200BDx with the K2. It puts out 
200W with 10W drive or less, depending on the band.
so far it has worked perfectly and has high levels of protection. 
Requires a good DC supply, i have a big battery bank as I'm on solar 
power.


Chris

Chris Meagher
VK2LCD
PO Box 61
Woodburn NSW  2472
Australia

Nearest town: Evans Head
HF Rig: Elecraft K2
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AW: [Elecraft] KX1 Crystal Filter Center Frequency a Little Low

[Peter Zenker]

Ladder filters vary both their input/output impedance and their midfrequency
when you vary the bandwith. High level rigs like the K2 therefore adjust the
BFO regarding bandwith (Cal Filter), simpler rigs like the KX1 want the OP
to do this by brain :-)

The impedance  change is why you have more or less attenuation, while
varying the bandwith.

72/3 de Peter, DL2FI
www.qrpproject.de


> -Ursprüngliche Nachricht-
> Von: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Im Auftrag von David Toepfer
> Gesendet: Mittwoch, 26. April 2006 19:11
> An: Roger Marrotte; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Betreff: Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Crystal Filter Center Frequency a 
> Little Low
> 
> On the low end of the filter it drops down from around 600Hz 
> over most of the range to around 500Hz.  I am sure others can 
> detail why.
> 
> David, K3ZTUE
> .

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Re: [Elecraft] Aves Is.

[Stephen W. Kercel]

Another good setting for NA QRPers to work YX0 is 0200-0300Z on 14023 kHz.

Most evenings they are on 20m quite late, and by that time the band 
has closed to Europe, and most NA hams are trying to work YX0 on 
80/40/30m. Thus, the pileup on 20 becomes small and manageable, and 
is easily cracked with a 5 watt signal.


73,

Steve
AA4AK




At 12:54 PM 4/26/2006, John wrote:
I was lucky. I usually listen to 15M on and off throughout the day, 
it does have sporadic openings. I just happened to hear him as he 
was just starting with the first CQ. Try listening tomorrow starting 
at 1500z on 21.023. I worked them at 1516Z. I wouldn't doubt them 
being on 21.023 later today, trying to work some JA's.


John
k7up

At 10:33 AM 26/04/06, you wrote:

at 1639Z he stopped!
Argh!! (smile)
Had me K1 ready!
Was also loud in MA.

Ron, wb1hga

John wrote:
Any QRP'ers out there need, YX0LIX, Aves Is.? They are on 21.023 
and loud here in NM.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Amplifiers

[sheajohnw]

Is there any determination of duty cycle rating made yet for RTTY contesting 
use?  Will the amps produce full power on RTTY without overheating?  If not, 
how many watts output is considered appropriate for extensive run mode 
operation?  Has amp output power been determined when operating a K2/100 at 1/3 
of its maximum power to allow for extensive RTTY usage without overheating the 
K2/100?
 
73 de KB1IKD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Crystal Filter Center Frequency a Little Low

[David Toepfer]

On the low end of the filter it drops down from around 600Hz over most of the
range to around 500Hz.  I am sure others can detail why.

David, K3ZTUE
.


--- Roger Marrotte <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> I just finished building KX1 #1447.  All went well with the construction.
> All seems to be working fine.  This is the second KX1 I've built.  I've also
> built three K2s and a K1, all with most options.  I recently built another
> company's QRP rig and that was a chore, to say the least, compared with
> building the Elecraft rigs.  The center frequency for the crystal filter on
> the new KX1 seems to be around 490Hz according to Spectrogram.  Peaking
> signals with the filter set to it's narrowest setting shows a center
> frequency of about 490Hz with Spectrogram.  I built my first KX1 when they
> first came out and I have since sold it and I don't remember what the center
> frequency was for that one.  Is this low? Is this normal? Should it be
> closer to 600Hz?  Can it be adjusted up closer to 600Hz?  All else works
> fine with the radio.  The filter is nice and sharp.  Signals are strong on
> both bands.  The rig only has 20 and 40 meters so far.  I did the BFO and
> DDS procedures.  Signals seem to be coming in at the right frequencies.
>  
> Roger, W1EM
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Re: [Elecraft] Aves Is.

[John]

I was lucky. I usually listen to 15M on and off throughout the day, it does 
have sporadic openings. I just happened to hear him as he was just starting 
with the first CQ. Try listening tomorrow starting at 1500z on 21.023. I 
worked them at 1516Z. I wouldn't doubt them being on 21.023 later today, 
trying to work some JA's.


John
k7up

At 10:33 AM 26/04/06, you wrote:

at 1639Z he stopped!
Argh!! (smile)
Had me K1 ready!
Was also loud in MA.

Ron, wb1hga

John wrote:
Any QRP'ers out there need, YX0LIX, Aves Is.? They are on 21.023 and loud 
here in NM.


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[Elecraft] KX1 Crystal Filter Center Frequency a Little Low

[Roger Marrotte]

I just finished building KX1 #1447.  All went well with the construction.
All seems to be working fine.  This is the second KX1 I've built.  I've also
built three K2s and a K1, all with most options.  I recently built another
company's QRP rig and that was a chore, to say the least, compared with
building the Elecraft rigs.  The center frequency for the crystal filter on
the new KX1 seems to be around 490Hz according to Spectrogram.  Peaking
signals with the filter set to it's narrowest setting shows a center
frequency of about 490Hz with Spectrogram.  I built my first KX1 when they
first came out and I have since sold it and I don't remember what the center
frequency was for that one.  Is this low? Is this normal? Should it be
closer to 600Hz?  Can it be adjusted up closer to 600Hz?  All else works
fine with the radio.  The filter is nice and sharp.  Signals are strong on
both bands.  The rig only has 20 and 40 meters so far.  I did the BFO and
DDS procedures.  Signals seem to be coming in at the right frequencies.
 
Roger, W1EM
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[Elecraft] Aves Is.

[John]

Any QRP'ers out there need, YX0LIX, Aves Is.? They are on 21.023 and loud 
here in NM.


John
k7up

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft KW Solid State Amps

[Darrell Bellerive]

On April 25, 2006 09:15 am, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
> The KPA1500 easily makes
> 1500W+ on 160M - 10M. We also plan for it to cover 6M with lower power.
> (Approximately 400W).
> Here is a short list of additional features:
> • *Full Break-In Silent Diode T/R*

Six meters with full break-in silent diode T/R? Could this be adapted to the 
XV-50?

Sure would be nice to have full break-in silent diode T/R in the XV-50.


-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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[Elecraft] Re: Tokyo Hy-Power Amps?

[Gottlieb, Jonathan]

I can't comment on the Tokyo Hy-Power amps, but if you are interested in
building your own 100 watt amp, K5OOR has a new group build project
underway for a 5 watts in, 100 watts out amplifier based on a December
'05 QST article called the SuperPacker Pro.  Here is the url. to his web
site  for more info:  http://www.hfprojects.com/newsletter.htm  I've
been using a version of the amp based on the QST article with my K2 with
great success.  In the interest of full disclosure, I co-authored the
QST article, but the group build is all K5OOR's doing.  Those of you who
have built any of K5OOR's projects (the HFPacker amp, the PowerPak, the
Z-Match) know that Virgil does a really nice job and the Superpacker Pro
has a lot more features than the Tokyo Hy-Power amps, including input
overdrive protection. 
 
Jonathan Gottlieb
WA3WDK
K2/100 #4853
K2 #5113
 
 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Subject:[Elecraft] Tokyo Hy-Power Amps? 
From:   Bill Allen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 > 
Date:   Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:56:37 -0500 (GMT-05:00) 

Has anyone had any experience with the Tokyo Hy-Power amps, particularly
the 
HL-200Bdx or HL-100Bdx models?


73,
Bill Allen - WA5PB












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[Elecraft] Paul Valko, W8KC - SK - Obituary

[M. P. Haynes]

Elecrafters,

I'm forwarding a lik to the obituary for Paul Valko.

Pat-K4BEH

-
-

Link to obituary:

http://tinyurl.com/zk7mf

Alan  N5NA
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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft at Dayton

[Don Wilhelm]

Sorry folks for the 'fat-finger' on the keyboard - that should have been
"QRO" amp.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> It is a good guess that the new QRP amp will be there on display,
> along with
> all the other gear.  The booth is larger than before so that will be nice.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft at Dayton

[[EMAIL PROTECTED]]

Don,

I've been following the progress of the coming new 800watt and 1500 watt 
amps, but you mention a "QRP amp".did I miss something?


Rich  k2cpe
K2 #1102
--

Don Wilhelm wrote:


Julius,

It is a good guess that the new QRP amp will be there on display 

 


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RE: [Elecraft] Puzzling Incident; Now Have a Problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Denny,

The only thing I can think of in the KX1 is that C44 may be shorted which
would put your power supply voltage onto the antenna jack.  If I had to
guess, I would say that your R7 had an RF Choke to ground, but your other
antennas do not short the coax for DC.  You may have zapped the RF Choke on
the R7, and that would explain why it now 'works'.  There is a DC path
through the tuners (to the antenna) that you used, so yes, my scenerio is
quite possible.

The first check you should do is look for DC on the KX1 antenna jack - you
can do that without transmitting.  The second thing that you may want to do
is replace the 1N5711 diodes in the KXAT1, your lower power indication may
be a result of a diode failure - easiest way to check is just replace them
(fix any DC at the antenna jack first so you don't zap the new ones).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> This morning I was listening to my KX1 on 80-meters on an
> approximately 5/8
> wavelength wire I recently put up, with an L-network tuner at its
> end, then
> coax ran into the house. Just out of curiosity, I decided to go
> through the
> other bands and see what the KXAT1 would do, trying to get a
> match through
> the outside L-network tuned for 80-meters, and of course SWR was
> high on all
> bands.
>
>
>
> Then I decided to listen to 40-meters, so I disconnected the wire antenna
> and connected the coax from my R7 vertical. As soon as I hooked it up
> though, the KX1 power died. I quickly disconnected the antenna,
> and the rig
> powered back up. I suspected a power supply problem so unplugged
> it, going
> to internal battery power, but when I started to hook up the
> antenna again,
> it died again. I then checked to see if there was a static charge on the
> line and there wasn't. I reconnected the 80-meter antenna and it seemed
> fine, but when I tried to reconnect the R7 again, the rig died
> again. I went
> back & forth several more times with the same result, then I
> turned on its
> lamp and tried to connect it, and the lamp went out, which alarmed me.
> Knowing there wasn't a charge on the R7's coax, I hooked it up to
> my ATS-3,
> and the rig worked fine. Then I decided to see what would happen
> if I hooked
> the rig up through my T1, but when I tried to connect the T1 to
> it, before
> hooking up the R7, it died again. Then though, that seemed to be
> the end of
> my problems! I couldn't do anything to get the rig to act up again, and
> couldn't see anything. I verified it worked properly on 40, 30, &
> 20 into my
> R7, so I was convinced that I no longer had a problem. I was
> puzzled though,
> as to what had happened.
>
>
>
> Tonight when I got home, I decided to hook it back up to the 80-meter
> antenna but found it had trouble matching the already 50 ohm
> load. Also, it
> said the power output was about half what it has been. I got out a dummy
> load and transmitted into it on 80-meters, and the tuner worked
> hard to give
> me a 1.4:1 match and the power reading was still low. The other
> bands were
> still fine though. This led me out to my shack & the oscilloscope. I
> operated the rig off of its internal batteries, which now go down
> to 8V. on
> transmit, but output was a good clean +/- one watt on "all" bands, which
> surprised me, since the rig's readout was still telling me that
> it was only
> putting out .5 watt on 80-meters. I recalibrated the tuner which
> was already
> fine, but have given up on it for the night. I don't yet have a
> clue though,
> as to why the tuner won't recognize a good match on 80, or the
> proper power.
> Does anybody have an idea that would help me trace this problem down, and
> does anyone have an idea as to what happened this morning?
>
>

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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft at Dayton

[Don Wilhelm]

Julius,

It is a good guess that the new QRP amp will be there on display, along with
all the other gear.  The booth is larger than before so that will be nice.

You can come and watch me build my KX1 - I will be there with a live
building demo at the booth, I just arranged that with Wayne and Eric
yesterday.  Yes, you will find a lot of great Elecraft owners and
prospective owners to chat with.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I was wondering, will there be anything special
> happening at the Elecraft Booth at Dayton? New secret
> weapons, closeout specials on the K3, 20Kw amplifiers?
> Or will it just be friendly business and kinship with
> the best rig owners in Hamdom?
>
> Cheers,
> Julius
> n2wn
>

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[Elecraft] Elecraft at Dayton

[J F]

Good Morning,

I was wondering, will there be anything special
happening at the Elecraft Booth at Dayton? New secret
weapons, closeout specials on the K3, 20Kw amplifiers?
Or will it just be friendly business and kinship with
the best rig owners in Hamdom?

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn
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Re: [Elecraft] T1 internal to FT-817

[Tom Althoff]

Well...last night I finished installing the T1 internally to my FT-817 with 
help and suggestions from Nigel G8IFF and Wayne.


After seeign the guts of the radio I decided I was not courageous enough to 
try to open up the DIN of the FT-817 adaptor and solder the leads directly 
to the board.  I ended up cutting a corner out of the side of the plastic 
housing of the chassis DIN connector and also cut a notch into the outer 
layer of the DIN shell so that the cable would fit in the notch.  This 
allowed me to pass the control cable through the same opening that the DIN 
plugs into (see photo).  If I ever need to plug something else in there I 
still have the option of a Y-cable adaptor.


I covered the battery compartment with mylar adhesive tape and put a piece 
of clear plastic cut out from a 3 ring folder cover to insulate the T1's 
boards from the metal case of the Yaseu.


After drilling holes in the battery compartment cover using the original T1 
case as a template I peeled off the T1 label, cut the bottom inch off and 
used it to cover the "ANT" and "XCVR" portion of the label and then stuck it 
on the FT-817.


The LED's fit perfectly in the holes and keep the board from sliding around 
in the battery compartment and the cover presses firmly on the face of the 
T1 so it doesn't vibrate or wiggle in any way.


RG-174 was run between the T1's BNC's and the SO-239 of the FT-817.   I 
soldered directly to the PC as there was not enough room to use male BNC 
plugs to connect to the BNC sockets.


At some point I will open up the radio again and take some close-up pics. 
In the mean time here is a photo of the finished project.   You can see the 
DIN connector plugged in on the back of the radio but it is not apparant 
that the lead is going back into the same hole that the DIN is plugged into. 
http://www.k2ta.com/t1_internal1.jpg


I have the Palm legs and whenever I change bands the T1 enters the "green 
light blinking" mode that is visible as a green glow reflected under the 
radio.   If I hit a sting of dashes at that point I can force the T1 to 
retune.   If I wait for the green flashing LED to stop after a few seconds 
the T1 uses the last remembered settings.If I ever need to read power 
and status etc I can always turn the radio on its side to press the buttons 
but in day-to-day operation the tuner is truely automatic and I never miss 
not "seeing" the LED's.


Thanks to Nigel for his example and also Wayne and Eric for designing the T1 
in such a way as to allow this type of installation to be feasible at all. 
The T1 is so cool!


73 de Tom K2TA

- Original Message - 
From: "Tom Althoff" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Wednesday, April 12, 2006 11:43 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] T1 internal to FT-817


I see the FAQ for the T1 suggests that the T1 could be mounted in the FT-817 
battery compartment "With some effort".


I plan on doing this but would like to hear back from anyone who's "been 
there / done that" before I dive in.


Tom K2TA
Greenwood Lake, NY
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Re: [Elecraft] 8T & 8R

[Bob Towers]

Dave,

I have to say that your Drake R4A is a neat looking bit of kit. I was a SWL 
40-odd years ago and in those days - apart from Collins - the Drake line was 
the bees-knees. All I could afford was a HRO-MX and no bandspread coils! Great 
way of learning how to tune SSB signals with backlash on the main tuning

73

Bob
2M0KDZ
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