Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft: High end paddles
I'll make it five! -- 73, Dave G3VGR K2 #4783 John Webster wrote: I'll add a fourth vote for the Begali paddles, to Joe's three votes :) But note: the Begali simplex (dual) paddle costs less ($138) than the Hex key ($195/179), even including shipping costs from EU; and less than the Begali simplex mono (single lever paddle) at $165. Of course, you can pay more for higher end Begali models! For what its worth, I think the Begali simplex and Kent paddles are the best value for money on the market for standard type paddles, and the Hex key is the best value for money one can find for a magnetic tension paddle. But I agree personal preference trumps value for money any day! 73 John, N6JW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] high end paddles
I've used all the Begali paddles, Benchers and some others, and I've settled on the Begali Simplex as my all-time favorite. Pricewise, it's at the low end of the high-end, I suppose, delivered for $154, I think. The workmanship is lovely, but the feel, ease of adjustment and stability is what I was looking for, and found, in this key. LL/K3ESE ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] High end paddles
I think the Begali simplex and Kent paddles are the best value for money on the market for standard type paddles I own and love the single paddle versons of both. I send fast. You cant go wrong with either. I think the begali is slightly better. Both are not expensive. UNLESS YOU PREFER A DOUBLE PADDLE. I dont.. Do You?? 73 DE KEN K1UM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 frozen frequency
Never mind .. thanks to PE1HZG and W4SG and the archives, I've solved my problem. de w1rt/r john .. listen for the weak ones this weekend! On 6/7/06, John D'Ausilio [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've got a bit of an odd problem going on, now that I've finally got everything integrated into the Intergalactic Roving Battle Jitney in preparation for the weekend's event .. I have one of my K2s set up for the 6 microwave bands from 903 to 10368. TRN1-TRN6 are all set up the same, with the frequency indicating actual with the GHz digit(s) lopped off. TRN1-5 all work fine, as expected. TRN6 is doing weird stuff .. I directly enter 10368.1 (3, 6, 8, 1, 0, 0) and it indicates that frequency, but when I touch the knob it jumps to a different frequency indicating 354.something and the encoder no longer has the ability to change the frequency. If I go back to 5760 or any other band it works fine, go to 10GHz and it locks up. Seems like all other functions work as expected ... Anyone seen this/have any clue? Everything was going so smoothly :( de w1rt/r John ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Matching End-fed Halfwave with K2/KAT2?
I'm considering using an end-fed halfwave for Field Day, and I have an idea how I might implement it, but need some technical assistance from those in the know. What I'd like to do is pick up a few toroid cores (one to break, one to lose, and another to use) to build a simple transformer with a couple turns attached to a short (2-3 ft) pigtail of coax going back to the K2/KAT2. I'm hoping I can experimentally determine how many secondary turns to use for the halfwave side of things. Will the KAT2 be sufficient to handle the 'fine tuning' after I handle the major impedance transformation through the toroid? or will I need to get my hands on an air variable to do fine tuning on the antenna end of the pigtail? Any ideas on how to best implement this would be greatly appreciated - especially since I'll need to know which core(s) to buy this week so I can test this out before Field Day. If there's a cheaper way to do this using simple plastic pill bottles and air wound cores - I can do that too ... but I also like to wind toroids ;-) I'll probably end up with 1 or 2 antennas ... a 40/20/15 (40m halfwave), and maybe an 80/40/20 (80m halfwave). I may try to orient these crosswise to provide E-W coverage on 80/40/20 and N-S coverage on 40/20/15 - knowing that both of these antennas will start producing interesting lobes on the shorter wavelengths. Thanks for any help this list generates... 73, Daniel AA0NI Oklahoma City http://www.aa0ni.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 #5542 Has entered the building
Hi all, After building K1 #1672 about 3 years ago I've been itching to get my teeth, and soldering iron, into a K2. Well that day has arrived. I ordered a basic K2, along with a Dayton Special free XG1, last week and today it's all here. I hope to get stuck into it tomorrow. Oh happy days I love the smell of solder in the morning. Cheers from Shetland, John GM4SLV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] battery problems k2
Hi Trevor, FWIW, I regularly transmit ssb at 100 watts with battery ( 8 golf carts series/parallel) voltages reported by k2 as low as 11 volts. I think it will transmit well down to 10, maybe lower. I did hear a lot of whining one time when I'd messed up a connection and was attempting to get out on less than 9. But with all these batteries, i don't get much drop on transmit. john ferguson ki4ngh m/v arcadian Check out AOL.com today. Breaking news, video search, pictures, email and IM. All on demand. Always Free. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] re: Nixie tube display for the K2
Way cool - Now I don't feel so bad. Along side my K1 build, I am working on an building a Novice Special 12 watt transmitter - think 70s qst - uses a 6c4 and a 5763 tube. After I get the base transmitter working, I want to replace the Crystal with a DDS vfo similar to the one in the KX1. All this came about when I was scrapping out an old Heathkit condenser checker with a green eye tube. the empty chassis screamed for such a project. Well - time to inventory my pocket protector now ;) -73s Pete Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located?
I am modifying a Rev D. K1 board to add the C78 capacitor (10 uF) for 80 meter operation. According to instructions, C78 is located on the bottom of the board near the PA and 12V labels. However I see no reference designator for C78, either on top of on bottom of the board at this location. Where exactly should I install this capacitor? Thanks, --Andrew, NV1B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Matching End-fed Halfwave with K2/KAT2?
Hi Don, --- Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I would believe that a W3EDP antenna - 85 ft. radiator with a 17 ft. counterpoise wire would be just as easy to deploy as an end-fed dipole and the KAT2 will handle it on all bands without the bother of the parallel tuned circuit. You may want to consider that as an alternative. Sometimes I just need someone to gently shake me back to reality... I've used a W3EDP and it did fine as far as tuning it is concerned. I wonder if there's a W3EDP style antenna that is 'bigger' for better performance on 80m (maybe 170 ft) ? I guess this gives me a good reason to play with EZNEC. I did seriously consider the 1/4 wave matching stub (J-pole style), but then I started to wonder if on 80m, I'd have to have 67 ft of 300 ohm twinlead spread out along the ground ... or could I twist it up in a coil (is either of these situations a good thing for a matching stub)? It just seemed to put me further away from the antenna than I was envisioning, and I was hoping to use each half-wave harmonically (3.5/7/14/21) and I believe the 1/4 wave matching stub pretty much makes each one a mono-bander ... but - that's not bad - I'll just have lots of fun making each end-fed halfwave for each band if I choose this antenna. ... but what did I buy the KAT2 for? This is why the W3EDP is a perfect combination for the K2/KAT2. Why end fed? Because I plan on tossing the other end over the top of a tree or two and I don't want to mess with feedline and branches. 73 and thanks, Daniel AA0NI ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 troubleshooting
Hi John: Now, as I was reviewing solder joints, etc., I noted that one of the solder pads for C4 was touching the outer can tab of L1. My question: Is this a solder bridge, or is there supposed to be a connection between C4 pad and outer (ground) tab of L1? I looked on N0SS's PCB pix and I cannot tell if a connection exists there or not. (thanks, by the way, to Tom for the pix). Fast answer... YES! They're supposed to be touching. Here's how to use the pic to help... that is, IF you have a suitable graphics program (or viewer): 1) Load both the TOP and BOTTOM views of the PC board in question. 2) LOCATE the component(s) in question of the side of the PC board which includes the silkscreened nomenclatures. 3) ENLARGE the (TOP SIDE) image so that most of your screen is occupied by the component pads in question. 4) ENLARGE the BOTTOM SIDE image to the same size. 5) FLIP the TOP SIDE image HORIZONTALLY. Of course, now all the print is reversed, but you should be able to re-locate the components in question by merely SLIDING the image right or left (flipping side to side usually won't cause the image to move up/down). 6) Make the image FULL SCREEN. 7) Switch to the BOTTOM SIDE image and (using the relative scroll bar positions of the drag bars from the TOP SIDE image) position the bottom side image so you can place the pads for the component in question immediately beneath those of the TOP SIDE image. You can usually use CTRL-TAB to toggle between the two images, so you can easily tell if the two sets of pads are aligned, one above the other. 8) With the two images properly aligned, you can now quickly switch between top/bottom views in order to get a really CLOSE look at the pads and land connections between them. I use this method all the time when doing signal path tracing on the PC board itself. In regard to your particular question, if you find a case where it appears that two pads are touching, check both top and bottom. If the pads appear to be so close together that they'd almost have to be touching, it's a pretty guess that they're supposed to be that way... especially given that NO OTHER UN-CONNECTED pads are anywhere nearly as closely spaced. Finally, check out the schematic!!! If (as it does in this case) the schematic indicates that one end of C4 connects to L1 AND to ground, then you've just answered your question WITHOUT having to resort to the images. All the images do then is to confirm that one end of C4 is attached to the (grounded) metal cover lug of L1, and that one end of L1 is also connected at the same point. Since the reflector doesn't support file attachments, I'm sending you some blown-up images of the parts of the PC board in question. 73, Tom HammondN0SS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located?
On My K1 it is on the bottom adjacent to the mounting screw for Q6. 73 de Bob, WG7Y - Original Message - From: Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located? I am modifying a Rev D. K1 board to add the C78 capacitor (10 uF) for 80 meter operation. According to instructions, C78 is located on the bottom of the board near the PA and 12V labels. However I see no reference designator for C78, either on top of on bottom of the board at this location. Where exactly should I install this capacitor? Thanks, --Andrew, NV1B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located?
...but to which pads do the leads connect? I know generally where C78 is located, but nothing I have found in the archives or in the documentation says where to connect the actual leads. Message from Bob Davis ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) on 6/8/06 10:30 AM: On My K1 it is on the bottom adjacent to the mounting screw for Q6. 73 de Bob, WG7Y - Original Message - From: Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located? I am modifying a Rev D. K1 board to add the C78 capacitor (10 uF) for 80 meter operation. According to instructions, C78 is located on the bottom of the board near the PA and 12V labels. However I see no reference designator for C78, either on top of on bottom of the board at this location. Where exactly should I install this capacitor? Thanks, --Andrew, NV1B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2/100 Power Calibration questiion
Hi all, Just finished my 100 watt add on to my K2 (# 4472) and I have a few questions on the power calibration page 45. I am using the power meter in my Palastar tuner as a external power meter and I know it is not calibrated, but it reads about 12 watts when I drive it with my Icom 703 at 10 watts and when I had a 1000MP(sold it to buy the K2) I remember it being about 5 watts differnce at about 50 watts out. I know I can' t rely on it being accurate, but its repeatable.. Anyway, when I set power on the K2 to 50 watts and hit tune+ display I adjust r26 so the reading on the k2 equals the reading on the external pwr meter, the reading on the external pwr meter changes also. Is this correct? I know I am supposed to make small adjustments, which I do. My reading are. Band K2 pwr set external pwr meterk2 pwr display 80 10 15 10.2 40 10 13 11.4 20 10 13 10.4 15 10 12 10.7 10 10 11 9.7 80 50 60 49 40 50 54 52 20 50 50 51 15 50 48 52 10 50 46 51 80 100102104 40 100 99 100 20 100 92 106 15 100 82 103 10 100 79 104 The warc bands follow a similar pattern. I measured my current draw on 10 meters at 100w and it was about 15.4 amps. I made a few contacts on 30 meters and had good reports. The power drops from 102w at 80 meters to 79w on 10meters, is this normal? I also measured with a textronix scope at 50w on 80 meters and read 124v p-p using a precison dummy load , giving me 39 watts out. Should I use the scope to do the adjustments? Jerry, N2UZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located?
In situations like this, the schematic comes in quite handy - it indicates which components are connected to other components. In fact, a schematic really serves no other purpose if taken in a generalized sense. After locating the possible component pads that it will connect to on the schematic, the parts placement guide can help in physically locating the points to be used. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Andrew Moore Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 10:45 AM To: Bob Davis; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located? ...but to which pads do the leads connect? I know generally where C78 is located, but nothing I have found in the archives or in the documentation says where to connect the actual leads. Message from Bob Davis ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) on 6/8/06 10:30 AM: On My K1 it is on the bottom adjacent to the mounting screw for Q6. 73 de Bob, WG7Y - Original Message - From: Andrew Moore [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 8:01 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located? I am modifying a Rev D. K1 board to add the C78 capacitor (10 uF) for 80 meter operation. According to instructions, C78 is located on the bottom of the board near the PA and 12V labels. However I see no reference designator for C78, either on top of on bottom of the board at this location. Where exactly should I install this capacitor? Thanks, --Andrew, NV1B ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 6/7/2006 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Where is K1 C78 located?
In situations like this, the schematic comes in quite handy I hadn't even thought of checking the Rev F. schematic on the elecraft web site - that did the trick. Thanks. --Andrew ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Soon to have K1
I have been reading this list since July of 2005, envious of all of you, because I did not own an Elecraft rig. Well, that's about to come to an end. My wife, bless her, ordered a full-blown K1 for me this past weekend, for my birthday this year. The condition on this is I can't put it together until my birthday (August 26th), but at least it will be here, waiting. This just might be my best birthday ever! 73, Howard AC4FS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] High end paddles
...and nobody mentioned about i1qod/Alberto Frattini iambic magnetic. http://www.eham.net/reviews/detail/4034 After 50 years of different keys; this is a performer! Benny OH9NB K2 #3969 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Soon to have K1
Howard, That's great news! Several years ago, my wife and I went for a few rides in various friend's boats on Lake Champlain. It was OK. Not exciting, not enticing, just OK. My wife began thinking it'd be fun to have a boat so we ended up buying one. I discovered something interesting. It is much more fun to go boating in your own boat than in someone else's. Boating went from semi-interesting to loads of fun. An Elecraft rig is much the same. It's fun to put a new rig on the air and make QSOs with it but it is much like using someone else's rig. They built it, all you did was open the box, hook it up and skim the manual. With an Elecraft rig, the rig is yours long before it is on the air. You built it. You know the areas that are good bad. When it works, there is a sense of pride and accomplishment that enhances each and every QSO. There's a sense of confidence as well, knowing that if something goes wrong, you'll be able to get it diagnosed and fixed. So, welcome a'board. The K1 is a great little rig that is a joy to use. If it is anything like my K2, it'll also be fun to build. 73! - Keith KD1E - - K2 5411 - -Original Message- From: Howard Pepper My wife, bless her, ordered a full-blown K1 for me this past weekend, for my birthday this year. The condition on this is I can't put it together until my birthday (August 26th), but at least it will be here, waiting. This just might be my best birthday ever! 73, Howard AC4FS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 Power Calibration questiion
Jerry, Yes, use the 'scope and precision dummy load because it will provide more accuracy than an uncalibrated wattmeter. A 10x probe must be used for accuracy - connect it directly across the dummy load (a coax TEE adapter is handy for that if you cannot get the probe on any other way. Results will be great if done at 40, 30 or 20 meters with a 100 MHz scope and a 10x probe rated for at least 100 MHz. If your 'scope and probe are rated for only 50 MHz, stay at 40 meters and lower frequencies. The K2 will attempt to re-level the power to what it thinks is the requested value during the adjustment, so yes, adjust in small increments - keep trying until it is right. When using the 'scope, the easiest way is to read the peak-to-peak voltage and then use the formula (Vp-p^2)/8R or (Vp-p^2/400 for a 50 ohm load) to obtain the power directly without first converting to RMS voltage. The derivation of the formula from the basic V^2/R is 'left to the student' (Hint - plug in the formulas for conversion from P-P to RMS and reduce the equation). You may find it easier to do the initial adjustment at 20 watts and adjust R26 shooting for 89.4 volts p-p and then check at 100 watts looking for 200 volts p-p on the 'scope. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Just finished my 100 watt add on to my K2 (# 4472) and I have a few questions on the power calibration page 45. I am using the power meter in my Palastar tuner as a external power meter and I know it is not calibrated, but it reads about 12 watts when I drive it with my Icom 703 at 10 watts and when I had a 1000MP(sold it to buy the K2) I remember it being about 5 watts differnce at about 50 watts out. I know I can' t rely on it being accurate, but its repeatable.. Anyway, when I set power on the K2 to 50 watts and hit tune+ display I adjust r26 so the reading on the k2 equals the reading on the external pwr meter, the reading on the external pwr meter changes also. Is this correct? I know I am supposed to make small adjustments, which I do. My reading are. Band K2 pwr set external pwr meterk2 pwr display 80 10 15 10.2 40 10 13 11.4 20 10 13 10.4 15 10 12 10.7 10 10 11 9.7 80 50 60 49 40 50 54 52 20 50 50 51 15 50 48 52 10 50 46 51 80 100102104 40 100 99 100 20 100 92 106 15 100 82 103 10 100 79 104 The warc bands follow a similar pattern. I measured my current draw on 10 meters at 100w and it was about 15.4 amps. I made a few contacts on 30 meters and had good reports. The power drops from 102w at 80 meters to 79w on 10meters, is this normal? I also measured with a textronix scope at 50w on 80 meters and read 124v p-p using a precison dummy load , giving me 39 watts out. Should I use the scope to do the adjustments? Jerry, N2UZ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] re: Nixie tube display for the K2
You could replace the crystal with a DDS vfo similar to the KX1, or you could USE the KX1. I used my K2 as a VFO for my Drake 2-NT crystal controlled Novice rig. Worked very well, but tied up my K2. Now I use an AmQRP DDS-60 with a KD1JV controller and Jackson Harbor Keyall as a dedicated VFO for the little Drake. http://www.ke6us.com/boatanchors_drake.htm Eric KE6US www.ke6us.com SKCC 86 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 6:34 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [Elecraft] re: Nixie tube display for the K2 Way cool - Now I don't feel so bad. Along side my K1 build, I am working on an building a Novice Special 12 watt transmitter - think 70s qst - uses a 6c4 and a 5763 tube. After I get the base transmitter working, I want to replace the Crystal with a DDS vfo similar to the one in the KX1. All this came about when I was scrapping out an old Heathkit condenser checker with a green eye tube. the empty chassis screamed for such a project. Well - time to inventory my pocket protector now ;) -73s Pete Pete Axson WD4LST 17901 NE 18th Ave Citra, FL 32113 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Soon to have K1
Maybe you can negotiate a plan to build the radio, with the last stage of assembly to be completed on your birthday. (smile) Ron, wb1hga now looking at my first K2 Howard Pepper wrote: The condition on this is I can't put it together until my birthday (August 26th), but at least it will be here, waiting. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ground static elec
I saw a post a few days ago about this. I have a table mat with snap on alligator clip. I do not have unpainted metal ground. How exactly do I do this using a resistor and 3 prong plug ?? 73 de Jesse W6JMM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High end paddles
Well I guess I'm going to have to order a Begali. Seems to clearly be the first choice here. But, which model? 73, Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] ground static elec
Jesse, Sacrifice a three wire plug/cord. Cut the cord at a convenient length. Expose the ground wire and trim the insulation. Solder a 1 Meg resistor to the ground wire. You can solder a piece of hookup wire to the other side of the resistor and form a small soldered loop to connect the alligator clip to. Heat shrink everything when you are sure there are no exposed hot/common leads. Plug it in and melt some solder. If you are still concerned about the hot lead, clip the plug hot prong off. Mike Scott AE6WA Tarzana, CA (near LA) Elecraft KX1 4-Watts -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jesse Nicky Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 11:33 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] ground static elec I saw a post a few days ago about this. I have a table mat with snap on alligator clip. I do not have unpainted metal ground. How exactly do I do this using a resistor and 3 prong plug ?? 73 de Jesse W6JMM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High end paddles - USA Made?
Why not choose a U.S. based manufacturer? There's the Mercury (Bencher and KG2ED), March R-3a, K8RA, Hexkey (Bencher and Elecraft), Vibroplex, etc. Just curious as I chose Elecraft/Ten-Tec gear not only for their excellent quality and design, but also to support our infrastructure. (...and it really could use the support nowadays.) Vy 73 de Bert WA2SI FISTS #9384/CC #1736 QRP ARCI #11782 - Original Message - From: Tony Morgan [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, June 08, 2006 2:39 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] High end paddles Well I guess I'm going to have to order a Begali. Seems to clearly be the first choice here. But, which model? 73, Tony W7GO ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] ground static elec
Jesse, If your 'table mat' is really an anti-static mat, it should have a 1 megohm resistor built into the attachment cord - check it with your ohmmeter. It is OK to attach it to a utility grounding point - I remove the plate mounting screw on a standard receptacle and attach the wire there (but make certain it is actually grounded first by checking continuity to the ground pin on a 3 prong socket - in the US, the center rounded pin should be ground, but if you are not certain about it, check with an electrician or someone who does know 'which pin is what' on the receptacles - there is dangerous AC voltage on the pins - BE SAFE! There are testers that simply plug into a receptacle and show if the ground is connected and if the receptacle is wired properly, I suggest that you obtain one and check before sticking any probe into the rectangular holes in the receptacle. If your household wiring conforms to code, any metal parts associated with the wiring should be grounded, but never trust it until you verify (by testing). I wired my house myself and have a lot of confidence in the wiring, but I still check to be certain - stuff can happen over time and ground connections can loosen on occasion. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I saw a post a few days ago about this. I have a table mat with snap on alligator clip. I do not have unpainted metal ground. How exactly do I do this using a resistor and 3 prong plug ?? 73 de Jesse W6JMM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] High end paddles
Has anyone on the reflector tried one of David Saylors Paddles? He offers a 30 day money back guarantee and he may be close enough to you QTH so that you can try them out. The pictures and descriptions on his web site look great. His price is a little out of my range for the moment, but maybe by the time I am copying and sending 35-40 wpm I will be ready to let my Elecraft Hex Key retire. http://saylorsmachine.com/wk4ds.html [EMAIL PROTECTED] 73 KI4DGH Chuck Gehring ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2/100 Power Calibration questiion
Don is assuming your 'scope is calibrated! No scope is good enough to work properly if it's out of calibration, Hi! Usually the most dependably calibrated piece of test equipment in a Ham shack is the DMM. They are robust and stable unless really abused. A simple RF rectifier circuit such as that included for power measurements in the DL1 can be used with your DMM to check the calibration of the 'scope. If using the DL1, keep in mind that the voltmeter circuit in it measures *half* the applied RF voltage to provide a greater power range without burning out the diode. Since your 'scope measures peak-to-peak and the metering circuit in the DL1 1/2 the voltage, the peak-to-peak reading on your scope should indicate 4 times the DC voltage shown on the DMM attached to TP1 of the DL1. Of course, you can rig up your own RF rectifier, using the circuit shown in the DL1 schematic (it's on the Elecraft under Manuals and Downloads web site). For best accuracy check the forward voltage drop in the diode you are using and add that to your readings as described in the DL1 manual. A diode like the 1N5711 used in the DL1 will have a quite low drop - in the range of 0.15 to 0.2 volts. A common silicon switching diode will also work but will have a forward drop in the range of 0.6 volts. For best accuracy, you want to apply enough RF to be well above the forward drop voltage, but not so much you destroy the diode. If your scope is okay at a low voltage, compared to the DMM, it's probably fine. It's rare for a 'scope to be off on other ranges. Their calibration is done by setting the gain of the amplifier circuits. The step attenuator at the input is usually very stable and, unless it's been abused with too much voltage applied, seldom causes significant error. Don warned you to use a 10X probe with your 'scope. That's one very important reason. Most 'scopes that I've seen can only handle a few volts applied directly to the vertical input without damaging them. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] ground static elec
To reinforce Don's comments, I've lived in several houses, none of which I wired, and found broken ground wires, broken neutral wires, broken hot wires, outlets with the hot and neutral wires reversed, and outlets with the ground and neutral wires reversed. I strongly suspect that if reverse wiring the hot and ground weren't a self-limiting entry for the Darwin Award, I'd have seen this one too. Rick's Rule of Electrical Work: Double-check EVERYTHING. NOTHING is safe until proved safe. Rick Hampton, WD8KEL Don Wilhelm wrote: Jesse, If your 'table mat' is really an anti-static mat, it should have a 1 megohm resistor built into the attachment cord - check it with your ohmmeter. It is OK to attach it to a utility grounding point - I remove the plate mounting screw on a standard receptacle and attach the wire there (but make certain it is actually grounded first by checking continuity to the ground pin on a 3 prong socket - in the US, the center rounded pin should be ground, but if you are not certain about it, check with an electrician or someone who does know 'which pin is what' on the receptacles - there is dangerous AC voltage on the pins - BE SAFE! There are testers that simply plug into a receptacle and show if the ground is connected and if the receptacle is wired properly, I suggest that you obtain one and check before sticking any probe into the rectangular holes in the receptacle. If your household wiring conforms to code, any metal parts associated with the wiring should be grounded, but never trust it until you verify (by testing). I wired my house myself and have a lot of confidence in the wiring, but I still check to be certain - stuff can happen over time and ground connections can loosen on occasion. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: Re: [Elecraft] ground static elec
Quite a few years ago, I bought (I think from Jameco) one of those yellow, plastic plugs with the three lights that tells you if an outlet is wired correctly and safely. However, this one had a female receptacle for the banana plug on the end of the wire from an anti-static mat/wrist strap. It connects to ground. I can plug the plug into an outlet, check the lights to make sure that it is wired correctly and grounded, plug my anti-static mat/wrist strap into the yellow plug, and feel (somewhat) safer. I think they still sell it. Dan Allen KB4ZVM K-2 S/N 1757 From: Rick Hampton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: 2006/06/08 Thu PM 04:38:07 EDT To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] CC: Jesse Nicky [EMAIL PROTECTED], elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ground static elec To reinforce Don's comments, I've lived in several houses, none of which I wired, and found broken ground wires, broken neutral wires, broken hot wires, outlets with the hot and neutral wires reversed, and outlets with the ground and neutral wires reversed. I strongly suspect that if reverse wiring the hot and ground weren't a self-limiting entry for the Darwin Award, I'd have seen this one too. Rick's Rule of Electrical Work: Double-check EVERYTHING. NOTHING is safe until proved safe. Rick Hampton, WD8KEL Don Wilhelm wrote: Jesse, If your 'table mat' is really an anti-static mat, it should have a 1 megohm resistor built into the attachment cord - check it with your ohmmeter. It is OK to attach it to a utility grounding point - I remove the plate mounting screw on a standard receptacle and attach the wire there (but make certain it is actually grounded first by checking continuity to the ground pin on a 3 prong socket - in the US, the center rounded pin should be ground, but if you are not certain about it, check with an electrician or someone who does know 'which pin is what' on the receptacles - there is dangerous AC voltage on the pins - BE SAFE! There are testers that simply plug into a receptacle and show if the ground is connected and if the receptacle is wired properly, I suggest that you obtain one and check before sticking any probe into the rectangular holes in the receptacle. If your household wiring conforms to code, any metal parts associated with the wiring should be grounded, but never trust it until you verify (by testing). I wired my house myself and have a lot of confidence in the wiring, but I still check to be certain - stuff can happen over time and ground connections can loosen on occasion. 73, Don W3FPR ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Errata! Check for errata!
Yesterday I received an XG1 Receiver Test Oscillator. One resistor has the wrong value: R8 (1.27 k) was actually delivered as 1.24 k. Claiming this at Elecraft's much praised 'help-I'm-missing-a-part' department, Scott AH6KL replied promptly and to the point: Yes you do have the correct resistor for XG-1 R8 as it needs to be 1.24 K ohms or 1240 ohms. Inadvertently Elecraft did not include an errata with your kit describing this substitution. Please go ahead and install the 1240 ohm resistor at R8 with confidence. Apologies for the oversight. Only after I received Scott's email, I checked at Elecraft's website and noticed there is an errata for this kit. All it says is that R8 has a different value and should be 1.24 k Darn, now why didn't I think of checking the website for errata first? Well, actually because I didn't think there could be an errata-sheet for a four page manual: I figured it would be small enough to be up to date. Apparently not. I'll check the website again for the other kits I've received just to make sure. There is always a chance new errata's are published. Lesson learned, ymmv. Bart de PA3GYU ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 9K2/KB9LLO
All you right-coast, and especially G/EU/TA Elecrafters: Look for Drew, 9K2/KB9LLO on 20m with his new KX1. We got an email from him and he's just about ready to hit the airwaves ... may already have. I don't know his work schedule (probably a lot!), but he should have some time to ham. It's going to be tough from out here in CM98, but I'll sure be listening when I can. 73, Fred K6DGW Auburn CA CM98lw ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Hamcon and Hamcom
It is a busy hamfest weekend. Two great opportunities to see our products this weekend. HamcoM in Plano Tx is Friday and Saturday, June 9 and 10. Eric and Lerma are there working the booth. Anyone who would like to stop by and say Hi or lend a hand for a few hours, please do so. They will have product for sale at HamcoM. HamcoN is in Estes Park CO. Thank you to all of you who responded to my SOS. If anyone else can stop by the booth on Friday or Saturday and lend a hand I know the guys would really appreciate it. They are running a little lean those two days. HamcoN is sticktly show and tell, there will not be any products for sale, but you can see our transceivers in action and then take advantage of our on-line specials. If you have a Hamfest coming up in your local area and would like to have an Elecraft booth just let me know. We will provide the banner, literature and a few goodies for the workers. Email [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks and have a great weekend whether you are at a Hamvest or not!. Lisa ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Cool Straight Key For Morse KB3NNP
Hello, Just received a cool Deluxe Straight Key from the Vibroplex Company for Diana de KB3NNP. I have to place the cable on the key and set it up. Of course I will have to try it out. If the key works as good as it looks, I will have to buy one. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 ALIGNMENT TEST, PART I....R1 ADJUSTMENT ??
Hello Elecraft K2 Builders Page 47 says to adjust R1 for a suggested setting of 3.80 volts. The maximum I can get is 3.79 at full rotation. Supply voltage is 13.8V on the K2 voltmeter. Any comments/suggestions much appreciated. THANKS !! Ken...W2GIW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 ALIGNMENT TEST, PART I....R1 ADJUSTMENT ??
Ken, 3.79 is nominally 3.8 volts. However, since your 8 volt regulator is on the lower side of tolerance rather than the high side, I suggest setting the AGC Threshold for 3.7 or 3.75 volts - either will work and after you complete your K2 you may want to optimize the AGC Threshold for maximum receiver sensitivity. Ask about that when you are ready - or check the archives for the optimizing procedure. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Hello Elecraft K2 Builders Page 47 says to adjust R1 for a suggested setting of 3.80 volts. The maximum I can get is 3.79 at full rotation. Supply voltage is 13.8V on the K2 voltmeter. Any comments/suggestions much appreciated. THANKS !! Ken...W2GIW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
