Re: [Elecraft] k2/100 for 380 Euros on ebay? - Busted!

2006-08-15 Thread Pentti Savolainen

Hi

Not very long time after I (and most propably some others too) reported eBay
this bulb head's get-rich-fast idea is Busted. eBay works fast.

73 and let's keep being alert
Ben





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RE: [Elecraft] Proper Adjustment of K2 AGC

2006-08-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
A couple of people have posed a question to me off the reflector that speaks
to a point I think is important: when checking to see if the volume changes
when switching the AGC on and off, do it with *no antenna*! Best, a 50 ohm
dummy load connected! 

Background QRN, even up on 10 meters, can easily trigger the AGC, especially
with the preamp turned on. In that case, hearing the audio level increase
when AGC is turned off is normal, indicating normal AGC operation. 

Ron AC7AC


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RE: [Elecraft] kpa100 not tracking power with K2

2006-08-15 Thread Pat N8VW

On Mon, 14 Aug 2006 22:04:16 -0400, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote :

 Pat,
 
 If this condition is confined to 40 meters, check out the KPA100 specific
 information regarding the position of RFC10 (the one soldered to the antenna
 jack) on Tom Hammond's website www.n0ss.net .
 

Already moved.

 If it happens on all bands, then you have another problem, so ask again and
 provide more information and we can lead you on a path of 'problem chasing'.
 First you will have to tell us whether the 'wattmeter' you refer to is an
 external wattmeter or the internal K2 indication.
 

Both.  Happens on all bands.  Relative to an external wattmeter the power
the K2 shows is wrong and the power the KPA100 outputs in some cases is not
ok.  Max out on the lowbands is almost 150 watts and pulled current is above
20 amps.  On 20m and above output is more normal, output is never above
100w. For example the K2 reads 80, but the external wattmeter reads 100w. 
On 15m output is below normal.  The K2 will read 110 and the max out is 90w.
Approachs normal at around 70w.  On 10m ouptput tracks like 20m except max
out is about 110w.


Pat N8vw

 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 
  -Original Message-
 
  Having problems with my kpa100 not tracking power with respect to
  the power
  knob on the K2.  For example on 40m if the K2 says 40w the wattmeter shows
  100 watts and the current meter on the power supply confirms the
  latter with
  ~18 amps.
 
  The leads me to suspect the power control circuit, but I'm unfamiliar with
  its operation.
 
  Any help would be appreciated.
 
  Pat N8vw
 
 
 
 
 
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[Elecraft] Amplifier for use with Heil products and K2

2006-08-15 Thread Charlie, W0YG
What amplifier is recommended for use with a Heil headset with the #5 
element?  I seem to be missing this in the discussions currently ongoing.


Thanks and 73,

Charlie, W0YG..

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[Elecraft] Ten meters propagation

2006-08-15 Thread f9oj.7
Hi
10 meters has been open through Europe for some time and occasionnally as
far as South America : yestesday, at 18 h UTC, a couple of PY stations were
coming in with decent signals, around 56 to 58. Called them with my K2 and
10 watts (antenna : 6 el log yagi) but no reply and eventually got them with
80 watts on the IC 751. Was it an effect of the gray line, though a bit
early ?
From Europe, it seems the path is rather open to the South West than to the
North West.
73
 Jacques de F9OJ   K2 #0937
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[Elecraft] 10 meter propagation

2006-08-15 Thread f9oj.7
Hi
10 meters has been open through Europe for some time and occasionnally as
far as South America : yestesday, at 18 h UTC, a couple of PY stations were
coming in with decent signals, around 56 to 58. Called them with my K2 and
10 watts (antenna : 6 el log yagi) but no reply and eventually got them with
80 watts on the IC 751. Was it an effect of the gray line, though a bit
early ?
From Europe, it seems the path is rather open to the South West than to the
North West.
73
 Jacques de F9OJ   K2 #0937
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RE: [Elecraft] Support Staff on Reflector BB?

2006-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Not only the support and development staff, but also Wayne and Eric
(Elecraft principals) often provide answers too.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-


 Yes. You might also get answers from those of us on the development
 staff as well.

 On Aug 14, 2006, at 6:40 PM, Fred (FL) wrote:

  I'm curious:   Do any of Elecraft's support
  staff, routinely answer builder questions posted
  on reflector BB?  Or is it primarily other builders
  and hams?   Or put another way, are any of the
  responses on the email Reflector, from Elecraft's
  support technical staff?
 

 - Jack Brindle, W6FB


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[Elecraft] K2 CW tuning indicator?

2006-08-15 Thread Cathy James

W1SRB wrote:

I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2..,


Tell me more about this!  I'd love to have one of these.  I have real trouble zero-beating CW sigs using the standard K2 method, especially when the sig is weak.  


Cathy


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RE: [Elecraft] Kenwood mic's

2006-08-15 Thread Richard Kent


Mike, I have been using a Kenwood MC-80 mic. I bought from a local ham.
While It is not a hand mic, I use it where ever the radio goes. I don't
power it from the radio it has a battery case and I use that to power the
mic. Function keys, transmit lock, and a level that seems to match the
radio. Something to think about.

Richard Kent, WD8AJG

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RE: [Elecraft] kpa100 not tracking power with K2

2006-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Pat,

Something strange is happening here.  First the facts of 'the case':
1) The KPA100 wattmeter should not be frequency dependent, and neither
should your external wattmeter if it is functioning correctly.
2) Your KPA100 wattmeter apparently needs to be calibrated - use a good 50
ohm resistive dummy load and start over at the point where you adjust the
trimmer cap - caution, a dummy load that is reactive will give you an
incorrect indication of the null point.
3) If you use your external wattmeter to set the KPA100 forward power level,
then the K2/100 indication should track with that external wattmeter
afterwards.
4) Be aware that an external wattmeter may be in error by as much as 10 or
20% OF THE FULL SCALE READING!  This is the typical spec for wattmeters.  Be
careful of the scale, on a 100 watt scale, that means that the error could
be as large as 20 watts (at any point on the scale), so do not use a 100
watt scale to read a 20 watt level, use a 20 watt scale where the maximum
error is only 4 watts.  I cannot stress this subtle point strongly enough.
Even a Bird wattmeter is speced at 5% of full scale, and that is only
guaranteed after calibration!

You may have something else wrong there too, but as first steps, check the
components in the wattmeter section and re-do the wattmeter calibration.
Then see if the power control becomes proper.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

  If it happens on all bands, then you have another problem, so
 ask again and
  provide more information and we can lead you on a path of
 'problem chasing'.
  First you will have to tell us whether the 'wattmeter' you
 refer to is an
  external wattmeter or the internal K2 indication.
 

 Both.  Happens on all bands.  Relative to an external wattmeter the power
 the K2 shows is wrong and the power the KPA100 outputs in some
 cases is not
 ok.  Max out on the lowbands is almost 150 watts and pulled
 current is above
 20 amps.  On 20m and above output is more normal, output is never above
 100w. For example the K2 reads 80, but the external wattmeter reads 100w.
 On 15m output is below normal.  The K2 will read 110 and the max
 out is 90w.
 Approachs normal at around 70w.  On 10m ouptput tracks like 20m except max
 out is about 110w.


 Pat N8vw


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW tuning indicator?

2006-08-15 Thread a.yoshida

Hi

I installd it both in KX1 and K1.
Check following page.

http://www.n0ss.net/

Cathy James wrote:

W1SRB wrote:


I recently added a CW tuning indicator to my K2..,



Tell me more about this!  I'd love to have one of these.  I have real 
trouble zero-beating CW sigs using the standard K2 method, especially 
when the sig is weak. 
Cathy



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--
73 de aki, ja1nlx
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://www.asahi-net.or.jp/~yy7a-ysd/
http://ja1nlx.exblog.jp/
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Re: [Elecraft] Proper Adjustment of K2 AGC

2006-08-15 Thread Roy Morris


- Original Message - 
From: Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: Roy Morris [EMAIL PROTECTED]; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 11:44 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Proper Adjustment of K2 AGC

Thanks Don.  Yes, I had a senior moment on the resistor value.  I think the 
procedure for setting the AGC threshold should be incorporated in the 
manual.  This is very important in obtaining optimum performance from the K2 
receiver.  Thanks again for your excellent info.  Roy


You must have misread something (or did a typo).  The stock value for

Control Board R1  on the older boards is 51k.




Roy,

You must have misread something (or did a typo).  The stock value for
Control Board R1  on the older boards is 51k.  A 50k pot will do the task
for you, or a 20k pot in series with a 33k resistor.  I typically find 
that
a 39k, 36k or 33k resistor will set the proper level, but I have also 
found
that the stock 51k value is OK in some cases.  I would hesitate to go 
below

33k at R1 because as I have mentioned before, the S-meter settings (and
readings) become 'funny' (that is tech-speak for too critical).

I have not yet discovered a concise set of parameters for determining what
the value should be, but I do know that the exact output from the 8 volt
regulator is a large factor - if you have 8.2 volts or more from the
regulator, the stock value is likely correct.  I suspect (but cannot
substantiate nor quantify) that there are minor dfferences in the gain vs.
AGC voltage at the IF amp chip that also come into the picture.

Your procedure is correct, but I would recomend the smaller value for the
pot - the 100k will work, but the adjustment will be more 'touchy' 
compared

with a smaller value.  Set it to the point where the AGC ON noise is just
barely discernable from the AGC OFF.

73,
Don W3FPR



-Original Message-

After reading Don's (W3FPR) AGC procedure, curiosity got the best
of me.  I set up my parameters as he stated and was surprised to
find a considerable difference between AGC ON and AGC OFF with
AGC OFF being considerably louder.  I am going to remove R1 (71K)
from the Control Board and substitute a pot to find the proper
resistance value.  I understand this pot should be adjusted to
where the AGC ON and OFF should be just about the same with the
RF gain set fully clockwise.  If I remember correctly a 100K pot
should be used to establish the value of R1.  Is this the correct
procedure?   Roy Morris  W4WFB



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RE: [Elecraft] Kenwood mic's

2006-08-15 Thread Bill Johnson
I use a Heil mic which I ordered directly from Heil.  It is a great mic.  I
told them the rig I was using and they made sure I had the correct setup. 

 
Bill
K9YEQ
 
K2-35  5279; KX1-35/3080
___
 
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Richard Kent
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 7:53 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Kenwood mic's



Mike, I have been using a Kenwood MC-80 mic. I bought from a local ham.
While It is not a hand mic, I use it where ever the radio goes. I don't
power it from the radio it has a battery case and I use that to power the
mic. Function keys, transmit lock, and a level that seems to match the
radio. Something to think about.

Richard Kent, WD8AJG

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[Elecraft] FS: KSB2+KNB2

2006-08-15 Thread Petr Ouředník
Dears,

as I am pure CW op. I decided to tune nor optimize my K2 for maximum CW 
performance ;)

According to that I have for sale KSB2 (ssb module) and KNB2 (noise blanker) 
for K2. Its in perfect condition, already assembled and aligned of course and 
ready to plug and play in any of K2.

Let me know off-topic if anybody will be interested in these options.

73, Petr OK1RP
Petr Ouředník
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.qsl.net/ok1rp

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[Elecraft] KSB2 ALC Mod

2006-08-15 Thread Roy Morris
Some time ago I installed the PN amp mod to my KSB2 board to increase the 
10 meter SSB output on my QRP K2.  Later I added the KPA100.  John (KI6WX) said 
the KSB2 amp mod was no longer needed since adequate output is obtained on 10 
meters.  I have since removed this PN amp mod.
However, at the time I had the mod installed I had to do another mod suggested 
by Gary Surrency to keep the balanced modulator from overdriving the ALC when 
using PTT.  This KSB2 mod replaces R9 with a 1.5K resistor and a 1K resistor is 
placed across a cut trace between Q1's base and pin 6 of P1 connector.  I am 
wondering if I should undo this mod since I no longer have the PN amp mod.  
I am not aware of any adverse effect on my SSB signal.   Roy Morris  W4WFBNo virus found in this outgoing message.
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[Elecraft] K2: power out issue on some (but not all) bands

2006-08-15 Thread Ron Hahn EI2JP

Colleagues,

My rather olde K2 (SN 79) seems to have developed a power issue.  I  
notice recently that my wattmeter seemed to be reading a bit low on  
17 metres and thought it warranted further investigation.  So, I set  
the displayed power out to 5 watts on each band and here's what I got:


80 - 5.0
40 - 5.0
30 - 5.0
20 - 5.0
17 - 0.7
15 - 2.5
12 - 4.5
10 - 2.0

At first I thought something was wrong with my wattmeter (Oak  
Research WM-2) so I checked with an attenuator and Boonton power  
meter and my measurements are spot on.


On every band the power meter (on the radio) reads at 1/2 of full scale.

Any suggestions?

Thanks for the help,

Ron
--
Ron Hahn - EI2JP
Grid:  IO52GA  CQ: 14  ITU: 27  IOTA: EU-115
FISTS: 10883 QRP-ARCI: 12584 G-QRP: 11968
Club Web Site:  http://www.ei1karg.com
QSL Info: http://www.qrz.com/detail/EI2JP
Mob. +353-86-600-5499



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Re: [Elecraft] K2: power out issue on some (but not all) bands

2006-08-15 Thread John Magliacane
Hi Ron.

If you're seeing reduced output on 17-meters and higher frequencies, it might
be an indication that only one of the two final transistors (2SC-1969) is
functioning.


73, de John, KD2BD


Visit John on the Web at:

http://kd2bd.ham.org/
.
.
.
.

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[Elecraft] New Picture Gallery Additions on Elecraft Site

2006-08-15 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ Elecraft
We have just updated our Elecraft Picture Gallery with a super group of 
new customer pictures.


The pictures include custom machined paddles for the KX1 by WB9LPU, 
homebrew SO2R control boxes, SOTA mountain toping, FYBO KX1 Pics and K2 
based DXpeditions to VK9X, VK9C, St. Martin, Key West, 8R1 and a host of 
other locations. Also check out our two featured pictures, including one 
of the newly discovered 'Cafe K2' in Sweeden. :-)


They reached via the 'Picture Gallery'  link on the upper right side of 
the main page at http://www.elecraft.com


Special thanks to picture submitters:  DL2KCD, DF4KV, DL3KMS, DL3ALX, 
DL7KCM, DL8BAG, SM7KJH, WB9LPU, DL1JET, K1EV, 6Y5/KN5G, 8R1ZUM (K7ZUM), 
DG2KAL, OE3ZK, DG8KAD (and bird), KD0RC, DL7JF, F5VJC (GM3SKN), KF6C, 
K1JD, KI4DGH, KT5X , K7TQ, KA3IXF, HB9AFI, N6IZ, N8XE, NY9H, PA3VBT,  
T32QS (N6TQS), W1TF, W6IZT, WA5KPA, WA7CS, SM5CBC, WH7N, W0YG (VK9CG, 
VK9XG) and DL2DE.


Great stuff guys! Thanks again for sending these pictures in to us.

73, Eric   WA6HHQ

--

_..._

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[Elecraft] KDSP2

2006-08-15 Thread Robert Johansen
I just built the KDSP2 and found that the SSB Low Pass filter setting on
filter 1 does not work as expected.
 
The noise bandwidth is reduced instead of being wide. I have set the high
frequency cutoff to 2.5 KHz for now. Any settings above 2.5 KHz also do
not appear to function properly. Is there a known solution to this
problem ?
 
73,
 
Bob Johansen WB2SRF
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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2

2006-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bob,

I am not certain I understand the description of the problem.  You say it
does not 'function properly', but if you can explain what it IS doing that
you believe to be improper, we may be able to provide an answer for you.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I just built the KDSP2 and found that the SSB Low Pass filter setting on
 filter 1 does not work as expected.

 The noise bandwidth is reduced instead of being wide. I have set the high
 frequency cutoff to 2.5 KHz for now. Any settings above 2.5 KHz also do
 not appear to function properly. Is there a known solution to this
 problem ?

 73,

 Bob Johansen WB2SRF


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[Elecraft] Logarithmic K2 Keyer Speed Pot Replacement?

2006-08-15 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Sverre, LA3ZA, documented a mod to modify the speed range of the K2 Keyer pot 
at http://www.qslnet.de/member/la3za/K2_speedPot.html.

As an alternative is there a direct replacement logarithmic pot that could be 
substituted for the linear pot supplied with the kit?

Darrell  VA7TO  K2#5093

-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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[Elecraft] Kdsp2 problem

2006-08-15 Thread Robert Johansen
Hi Don,

The problem that I am experiencing is that when I completed the DSP board
last night, I noticed that the default setting of the SSB DSP filter 1
(low pass filter) did not sound like its high frequency audio bandwidth
was wide enough. The filter setting 2 default setting of 2.5 KHz  had a
higher frequency of noise content.
 
When I  tried to change the upper cut off frequency following the
instuctions on page 26, I noticed that any setting greater than 2.5
through LPF resulted in a narrower noise bandwidth although the display
changes normally according to the instructions.
 
I have experimented with it further today and am experiencing the same
problem. Also I have noticed that when I advance the low pass filter
cutoff  from display  S1  00  2.5   to  S1  .45   2.5  it sounds like I
have selected a CW filter from the change in the noise bandwidth.  S1 
.40   2.5  sounds like the correct bandwidth. It is strange that the low
frequency cutoff  filter characteristics change very abruptly over 400
Hz.
 
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RE: [Elecraft] Re: band-passfilter location in SSB transmit chain

2006-08-15 Thread pc5m, Carel
Peter, Wayne

To add to the discussion of TX spurious signals: 

I did perform extensive (spectrum) measurements on the TX spectrum at 28MHz
and found that (despite the class A / High IMD behavior of the TX buffer
Amp) some in band signals are generated in this amplifier. 

Example:

TX = 29.0 MHz
Spurious found (only -40 to -50 dBc!): 28.51 MHz
Generated by: 2 * VCO - 4 * BFO = (2 * 24.085 - 4 *
4.915)

Spurious level is affected by the TX-ALC voltage and is worst at higher TX
power output. Also verified that this mixing takes place in the TX-buffer
and not in the (ne601) mixer itself and is due to the broadband design of
this TX-buffer (which is of course difficult to circumvent in this
architecture chosen). Placing an extra set of BPF's just after the TX-mixer
would solve the issue, but is not achievable in the present board layout. Of
course this would not improve the SSB/audio IMD as Wayne pointed out. 

Because I use the K2 as driver of a 1KW+ VHF amplifier I have been very keen
in getting spurious signals as low as possible. Only way I could get the
spurious further down (60/70dBc) is to add an extra ERA9 amplifier (+10 dB
gain) just before the transverter IF output but within the TX-ALC loop. In
such a way making sure the signal level out of the TX-mixer and subsequent
TX-buffer amplifier are as low as possible.   
 

Cheers,

Carel,pc5m


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:elecraft-
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wayne burdick
 Sent: Monday, August 14, 2006 8:59 PM
 To: PE1E
 Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: [Elecraft] Re: band-passfilter location in SSB transmit chain
 
 PE1E wrote:
 
 
  I was told that the absence of filtering between Tx  mixer and Tx
  buffer
  amp could cause annoying IM products.
  ( The bandpass filters in the K2 are behind the Tx buffer amp., while
  in at
  least one of my other tranceivers in use here I see the bandpass filter
  straight behind the Tx mixer without interfacing amp. ).
 
  Could this observation contribute adversely to the SSB Tx audio
  quality (
  in-band IM3) or do I see a ghost ?
 
 Peter,
 
 The TX buffer amp is operating class A, and any IMD it contributes will
 be completely negligible compared to the IMD contributed by the
 class-AB final amp. So, positioning the bandpass filters after the
 buffer should have no impact on observed IMD.
 
 If you see any more ghosts, let me know  :)
 
 73,
 Wayne
 N6KR
 
 
 ---
 
 http://www.elecraft.com
 
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[Elecraft] Re: band-passfilter location in SSB transmit chain

2006-08-15 Thread wayne burdick

pc5m, Carel wrote:

I did perform extensive (spectrum) measurements on the TX spectrum at 
28MHz...



Example:

TX = 29.0 MHz


Hi Carel,

Thanks for the data.

While the K2 was never intended to cover the entire 10-meter band (we 
spec'ed it in the manual at 28.8), it may be possible to attenuate the 
indicated product at 28.51 with a modification to the buffer amp. Or, 
it may be that the amp itself is not the cause, but is reflecting a 
mismatch back to the TX mixer. A better match may be called for in this 
case.


The way to check these possibilities is to temporarily terminate the 
mixer and/or the buffer with a 51-ohm resistor, then check the spectrum 
again. In either case, a 3 to 5 dB pad at the buffer's input or output 
may substantially reduce undesired products. Of course the gain would 
have to be made up after the pad (or after the band-pass filter). 
Alternatively, you could replace the present buffer with a dual amp 
(LT1253, I believe) and configure it for differential output drive 
using a broadband transformer.


The K2 has been around for quite awhile, and it's nice to see operators 
pushing the envelope with it  :)  Our policy has always been to keep 
track of customer modifications (as well as our own) for possible 
future inclusion in the kit. A recent example is the keying 
modification, which resulted in the K2 having among the cleanest keying 
envelopes of any commercial transceiver.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

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[Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Bill Carpenter
I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most 
complicated project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so wish me luck 
as I delve into (gulp!) this project!


Bill NZ0T 



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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Gregg R. Lengling
Bill congrats and welcome to the brotherhood.  Just take you time and be 
neat.  It is also important to set up a nice clean work area where you can 
inventory the parts and get ready to build and not have to clean up after 
each session.  The gang here is great if you have any questions during the 
build post it here and you will get multiple answers in minutes.  You'll 
never be sorry, I've had mine for 3 or 4 years and wouldn't trade for the 
world.  In addition a number of friends who operated it decided they needed 
one also.


Good luck again.

Gregg R. Lengling, W9DHI, Retired
K2/100 SN 3075
http://www.milwaukeehdtv.org

- Original Message - 
From: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 4:08 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!


I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most 
complicated project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so wish me 
luck as I delve into (gulp!) this project!


Bill NZ0T

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RE: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread DAVID
JUST REMEMBER SET UP The video camera and take pictures and shoot the movie
than spend some time narrating it and add some back ground music then you
can give the DVD out for Christmas presents and save money so you can buy
even more elecraft goodies. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Bill Carpenter
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 5:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!


I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most 
complicated project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so wish me luck

as I delve into (gulp!) this project!

Bill NZ0T 


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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Augie (Gus) Hansen

Bill Carpenter wrote:
I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most 
complicated project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so wish 
me luck as I delve into (gulp!) this project!

Good move, Bill.

Take your time. No more difficult than what you've already done, just 
more of it.

Do a parts inventory before you start building.
Double-check everything as you go.
Solder carefully.

When you're all done and filled with pride for you accomplishment, 
you'll be insufferable like the rest of us!


Most of all enjoy the building as much as the operating.

73,
Gus Hansen, KB0YH


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RE: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bill,

Despite the number of parts, it all goes together like any other kit, one
part at a time.
Don't rush and avoid working when you are tired if you are to avoid
mistakes.  If you feel you do not understand the written instructions, ask
here on the reflector, lots of assistance is available.

Enjoy the experience of building, you will be rewarded with a great
transceiver.

One more important point - be certain to read any errata sheets and mark
your manual accordingly before starting.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most
 complicated project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so
 wish me luck
 as I delve into (gulp!) this project!

 Bill NZ0T


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Re: [Elecraft] Logarithmic K2 Keyer Speed Pot Replacement?

2006-08-15 Thread Mike S
At 03:03 PM 8/15/2006, Darrell Bellerive wrote...

As an alternative is there a direct replacement logarithmic pot that could be 
substituted for the linear pot supplied with the kit?

Elecraft p/n E520003
or
Mouser p/n 317-2080F-5K

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 v1.10 vs v1.09

2006-08-15 Thread Philip Carter
-BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-
Hash: SHA1

I couldn't see anywhere in the 60M manual any mention of firmware above
1.09.  So the question remains, what is the difference between these 2
versions of firmware?  If I have 1.09, what do I gain by upgrading the
firmware.

- --
Phil Carter, WD8QWR
QRPARCI #9986, CQRP #3
Fists #6514, FP #262
QCWA #32302
-BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-
Version: GnuPG v1.4.2.2 (MingW32)
Comment: Using GnuPG with Mozilla - http://enigmail.mozdev.org

iD8DBQFE4kVbXRrUupd04PkRAve0AKCPVFUrj1rVr7Y7U6oM2lWTbZGRmACdGguT
mZrGrhnoK2eKIfGsYDadqug=
=zd86
-END PGP SIGNATURE-

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[Elecraft] From Science at NASA, Backward Sunspot...

2006-08-15 Thread Rod Ai7NN

...ay be indicator of next Solar Cycle starting. Details at:

http://science.nasa.gov/headlines/y2006/15aug_backwards.htm?list841773

73, Rod Ai7NN
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Re: [Elecraft] Logarithmic K2 Keyer Speed Pot Replacement?

2006-08-15 Thread Darrell Bellerive
Thanks for the part numbers Mike!

Forgive my ignorance of audio taper pots, but would the audio taper pot spread 
out the slower keyer speeds or the higher keyer speeds. For some reason I was 
thinking I needed an inverse audio taper to spread out the slower keyer 
speeds.

I been thinking to much again. Help! My brain hurts. :-)

Darrell VA7TO K2#5093


On August 15, 2006 03:05 pm, Mike S wrote:
 At 03:03 PM 8/15/2006, Darrell Bellerive wrote...

 As an alternative is there a direct replacement logarithmic pot that could
  be substituted for the linear pot supplied with the kit?

 Elecraft p/n E520003
 or
 Mouser p/n 317-2080F-5K


-- 
Darrell Bellerive
Amateur Radio Stations VA7TO and VE7CLA
Grand Forks, British Columbia, Canada
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RE: [Elecraft] kpa100 not tracking power with K2

2006-08-15 Thread Pat N8VW
On Tue, 15 Aug 2006 08:53:22 -0400, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote :

 Pat,
 
 Something strange is happening here.  First the facts of 'the case':
 1) The KPA100 wattmeter should not be frequency dependent, and neither
 should your external wattmeter if it is functioning correctly.
 2) Your KPA100 wattmeter apparently needs to be calibrated - use a good 50
 ohm resistive dummy load and start over at the point where you adjust the
 trimmer cap - caution, a dummy load that is reactive will give you an
 incorrect indication of the null point.
 3) If you use your external wattmeter to set the KPA100 forward power level,
 then the K2/100 indication should track with that external wattmeter
 afterwards.
 4) Be aware that an external wattmeter may be in error by as much as 10 or
 20% OF THE FULL SCALE READING!  This is the typical spec for wattmeters.  Be
 careful of the scale, on a 100 watt scale, that means that the error could
 be as large as 20 watts (at any point on the scale), so do not use a 100
 watt scale to read a 20 watt level, use a 20 watt scale where the maximum
 error is only 4 watts.  I cannot stress this subtle point strongly enough.
 Even a Bird wattmeter is speced at 5% of full scale, and that is only
 guaranteed after calibration!
 

Don, I've done all this and taken it into account.  I don't typically post
unless I've spent several hours puzzling over a problem.

 You may have something else wrong there too, but as first steps, check the
 components in the wattmeter section and re-do the wattmeter calibration.
 Then see if the power control becomes proper.
 
Here is what I think the problem is:

U7 Pin 1 is listed as being between 0 and .8 volts on rx mine is 0 volts on
transmit it is about whatever the supply voltage is, in this case 13.5v.
Looking at the circuit, I see that it supplys voltage to Q5 and is part of
the current sense.  On transmit I measured zero volts on the emitter of Q5,
TP1 and that end of R30.  Seems like Q5 might be dead.  

I replaced Q5 and now U7 Pin 1 is about .5v on tx.  However, U7 pin 7 is not
right so guess Q4 might be suspect.


Pat





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[Elecraft] Hand Mic for K2

2006-08-15 Thread Bernard Gaffney
Hi, 
  
  Dan,

  while not a hand mic, I use the Kenwood MC-60A desk
mic with my K2. Got it on eBay for about 50-60% of the
new price. Haven't had a lot of air time due to
non-Ham obligations, but it seems to put out a decent
signal. It has the up/dn keys  pre-amp, and is wired
per the K2 manual. From what I read on eBay, the older
MC-60 is similar, except the MC-60 doesn't have the
up/dn keys or pre-amp. 

 72 de N8PVZ
   ---bernie


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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Tue, 15 Aug 2006, Bill Carpenter wrote:

I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most complicated 
project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so wish me luck as I delve 
into (gulp!) this project!


Best of luck.when you've finished it...log onto
http://www.zerobeat.net/qrp/k2data.html

You can add your K2 to the database.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database
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Re: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Bill Allen
Good Luck!  You will love your K2. Don't rush through any of the construction 
or testing steps.  Never be afraid to ask any questions here on the list .  
This is the most supportive user community in Amateur Radio, in my opinion!  If 
problems do develop, Elecraft support is the best.

73, Bill Allen WA5PB


-Original Message-
From: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Aug 15, 2006 4:08 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

I just ordered the K2, KPA100, KSB2, K160RX, and K60XV.  The most 
complicated project I've built heretofore was a Ten Tec 1340 so wish me luck 
as I delve into (gulp!) this project!

Bill NZ0T 


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RE: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
One time I watched Dr. Zahi Hawass, the Director General of Egypt's Supreme
Council of Antiquities, do a demonstration of how the great pyramid was
built. He showed workmen placing a limestone block on top of another block.
He looked at the camera, smiled, and said, Just do that about 2.3 million
more times and you have the great pyramid. Nothing to it!

Fortunately, building a K2 doesn't involve heavy lifting. Just do it one
step at a time. Elecraft even sends you the parts ready to install. No
chipping, cutting or dressing blocks. 

Have fun!  

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] Ordered my K2!

2006-08-15 Thread Thom R LaCosta

On Tue, 15 Aug 2006, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:



Fortunately, building a K2 doesn't involve heavy lifting. Just do it one
step at a time. Elecraft even sends you the parts ready to install. No
chipping, cutting or dressing blocks.


To say nothing of the fact that you are not buried inside the unit when it's 
finished.


Thom

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[Elecraft] First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Bill Carpenter
I just ordered mine and a question has already popped up in my fevered 
brain.  Since the parts are arranged in different bags, one for each board, 
does it make sense to inventory and separate parts for each board?  In other 
words, inventory and separate the control board parts and then finish the 
board.  Once done, then proceed to an inventory/separation/finish of the 
front panel board and then so on.  It seems to me it would cut down on 
clutter from parts that are not yet needed and create more usable space on 
my workdesk. 



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Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Tom McCulloch

Hi Bill,
 I won't presume to speak for the Elecraft guys, but they are very good and 
sending any parts that might be missing, and very quick about it too, I 
might add.  With that said, it would probably be best to only open the bags 
as you need them, to avoid mixing the parts up.  If a part is missing in a 
later bag, you can generally work around it (not always though), but even if 
you can't they'll have the part to you in a week at the outside.


If I remember correctly the resistors are taped together in the order they 
are installed (not sure about that, though).


Have fun and keep us posted (what's your serial number?)

Tom
WB2QDG
K2 #1103


--

Teamwork is a lot of people doing what I say.


- Original Message - 
From: Bill Carpenter [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: elecraft list elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, August 15, 2006 10:21 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] First K2 question


I just ordered mine and a question has already popped up in my fevered 
brain.  Since the parts are arranged in different bags, one for each board, 
does it make sense to inventory and separate parts for each board?  In 
other words, inventory and separate the control board parts and then finish 
the board.  Once done, then proceed to an inventory/separation/finish of 
the front panel board and then so on.  It seems to me it would cut down on 
clutter from parts that are not yet needed and create more usable space on 
my workdesk.


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Re: [Elecraft] First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Terry W9TRB

Bill Carpenter wrote:
I just ordered mine and a question has already popped up in my fevered 
brain.  Since the parts are arranged in different bags, one for each 
board, does it make sense ...


snip

Hello Bill,

	When I was doing mine my wife remembered how disorganized I was with 
the OHR Kits and the K-1. So, she went shopping and came home with three 
plastic boxes with separators that could be re-positioned inside the 
larger boxes so as to make trays of various sizes.  This helped with the 
inventory, immensely.
	However you decide to do it, the important thing is to get organized in 
a way that you will follow through with, at least that is my opinion. 
But the inventory should not be skipped because if your eyes are as iffy 
as mine, some of the parts are amazingly similar and it helps to sort 
out and double check those tiny numbers also,  before any solder flows.


Whatever you do, take your time and enjoy the build...

73,

Terry W9TRB   East Central Illinois

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[Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Joseph Trombino Jr

Howdy Gang:

I've built a bunch of kits over the years and the following technique works 
very well for me and keeps me from messing up...it is a bit labor intensive 
but it has proved to be foolproof for me (me being the fool or course:)


I get sheet of legal size paper and write down the numbers of the 
components.i.e., R1, R2, C1 C2, etc, I do all the resistors and then the 
capacitors.


I tape all the resistors and caps next to their designator on the paper.

When I install a part I cross its number off of the list.

I do this for diodes, transistors, toroids, etcnot the spare chassis 
parts though (grin)


I can then tell when all those values have been used up and if I have any 
extra left over...meaning I made a mistake with another part and I can go 
looking for my mistake.


It takes some time to do this but I find it much better than putting parts 
in certain containers by value.with my system I can tell if I have 
installed the correct number of a particular part value.


Maybe not for everyone cause it is labor intensive but I find the kits go 
together faster and with much fewer mistakes with this system.


   73, Joe W2KJ
   I QRP, therefore, I am



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RE: [Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Craig Rairdin
 I've built a bunch of kits over the years and the following technique
works 
 very well for me and keeps me from messing up...it is a bit labor
intensive 
 but it has proved to be foolproof for me (me being the fool or course:)

 I get sheet of legal size paper and write down the numbers of the 
 components.i.e., R1, R2, C1 C2, etc, I do all the resistors and then the 
 capacitors.

 I tape all the resistors and caps next to their designator on the paper.

Just to keep the universe in balance let me suggest the complete opposite
technique: I separate the parts by type (resistors, capacitors, diodes,
etc.). I don't do an inventory (Christine usually does a really, really good
job) but I do make sure I have the right part in my hand before soldering.
While I've messed up some other things (put a electrolytic cap in backwards
but fortunately none of the smoke got out) I haven't had a problem with this
method. To each his own, of course. IMHO, YMMV, etc.

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
KX1 #1499
KX1 #1541 (still in the box)
K1 #?? (in the postal system somewhere)

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RE: [Elecraft] First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Bill,

There is one bag for the Control Board - open it and do the inventory - you
will have to dip into the Hardware bag for a couple screws while doing the
control board assembly, so your choice is either to inventory the hardware
bag first or keep track of the parts used from it.
Assemble the Control Board.

If you have not done it already, inventory the hardware bag.

The front panel is similar, inventory the Front Panel bag just before doing
the front panel.  The standoffs come in the hardware bag and the Serial
Number packet contains the plastic parts.  The screws are in the hardware
bag. Aseemble the Front Panel.

When you get to the RF board, there are 2 bags to inventory - RFa and RFb.
I have not yet figured out exactly what the rationale is for separating the
capacitors into the two bags, so you can plan on inventoring both together.
Assemble the RF Board.  There are really 3 steps to the RF board assembly.
Do everything in the order spelled out in the manual and all should be
well - do not skip about in the instructions until you have assembled
several K2s and the process begins to make sense.

Following the steps in the manual in order will yield you a fine functioning
K2.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 I just ordered mine and a question has already popped up in my fevered
 brain.  Since the parts are arranged in different bags, one for
 each board,
 does it make sense to inventory and separate parts for each
 board?  In other
 words, inventory and separate the control board parts and then finish the
 board.  Once done, then proceed to an inventory/separation/finish of the
 front panel board and then so on.  It seems to me it would cut down on
 clutter from parts that are not yet needed and create more usable
 space on
 my workdesk.



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RE: [Elecraft] Re: (Elecraft) First K2 question

2006-08-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
Craig,

While this method works, it is not the best advice for those who do not have
a few K2 assembly experiences under their belt.

I would like to resurrect a favorite method of sorting parts that I use (I
believe there are photos on Tom Hammond's website www.n0ss.net ).  I cut a
corrugated box in half (the USPS Priority Mail boxes work great to create 2
'trays'.  The leaded components are placed (in value order) into the open
end of the corrugations.  This enables me to quickly locate any component
and quickly mount it - the misc hardware and oddball components just lay in
the center of the tray.  I line up the capacitors on the left side of the
tray and the diodes, inductors and misc leaded components on the right -
larger values toward the rear of the tray.  This is a method that was
advocated with the old Heathkit instructions, and I find it much more useful
than putting the components in bins or taping them to a sheet of paper, but
then Your Mileage May Vary - organize the components in ny way that you can
easily access them when needed, that is more important than the precise
method of accomplishing that goal.

Fortunately, the base K2 now packages the resistors in assembly step order
on a strip, so you do not have to sort the resistors as we did in the
earlier days.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

  I've built a bunch of kits over the years and the following technique
 works
  very well for me and keeps me from messing up...it is a bit labor
 intensive
  but it has proved to be foolproof for me (me being the fool or course:)

  I get sheet of legal size paper and write down the numbers of the
  components.i.e., R1, R2, C1 C2, etc, I do all the resistors and
 then the
  capacitors.

  I tape all the resistors and caps next to their designator on the paper.

 Just to keep the universe in balance let me suggest the complete opposite
 technique: I separate the parts by type (resistors, capacitors, diodes,
 etc.). I don't do an inventory (Christine usually does a really,
 really good
 job) but I do make sure I have the right part in my hand before soldering.
 While I've messed up some other things (put a electrolytic cap in
 backwards
 but fortunately none of the smoke got out) I haven't had a
 problem with this
 method. To each his own, of course. IMHO, YMMV, etc.


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