[Elecraft] Now Shipping 2nd Generation Un-Module PCB Kits

2006-08-22 Thread Gary Hvizdak
Ken began domestic shipments of our new board on Monday August 21st.
He will begin international deliveries today Tuesday August 22nd.  You 
just have to see the new board to appreciate it ... the scan on our website 
doesn't do it justice!

Little-by-little I've been migrating our site to HTML so it will support

Mozilla's Firefox browser.  Although Firefox has bugs of it's own, it is 
still a very nice alternative to Internet Explorer.

If you've never been to our site, or haven't been in a while, I think 
you'll find it worthwhile.  However, for the moment you still need to us MS 
Internet Explorer to see the embedded images on most pages.

Our homepage is http://www.unpcbs.com/ 

Thanks for the bandwidth,
Gary, KI4GGX
K2 #4067

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[Elecraft] KXAT1 with dipole

2006-08-22 Thread Dan Presley
I was out in the woods of Oregon today (up by the coast range town of 
Jewell) with my KX 1 and a few different antennas. I used a long wire 
for a while, but then for the heck of it I set up a 40M inverted vee 
with my portable mast. The KXAT1 had no trouble with the long wire 
(and counterpoises) bringing it right down to 1:1, but no such luck 
with the dipole ( cut to resonate on 40, and fed w/RG 174).I've used 
this antenna a bunch w/ the K2 and it's pretty much a 1:1, but when 
using the KX1 atu I got around 9:5 SWR! So, I promptly forgot how to 
bypass the tuner (until I got home and re-read the manual;set it to 
'CAL':).But,also in the manual it states that it'll match most coax 
type dipoles, etc.Elsewhere it's stated that it won't match a half 
wave length,but I wasn't clear if that's only for a half wave end 
fed.I'll bet it's the same for a resonant dipole as it's a ground 
independent half wave, but maybe someone who has come up against this 
before can clarify as far as the tuner is concerned. I usually bring 
a separate antenna 'dipper' just to check the antenna in case there's 
a short or bad coax,etc., but that got left behind. Just for 
reference, I use the lightweight dipole kit from N2CX with a nice 
sealed center insulator and RG 174 (I know it's not the most 
efficient, but for a short run it's fine and very lightweight). I'm 
still trying to find more of the type of wire he used in there-it's 
springy yet has a great slick and tough coating which holds up well 
in trees, etc, It's also a light yellow in color so it blends 
nicely.N2CX quit making these kits a while back and ran out of that 
wire.The 'Wireman' sells some similar stuff,(524?) but it's still not 
the same.
Any thought appreciated on the tuner-I'm trying to get as much 
outdoor radio time in before summer ends:)

--
Dan Presley-N7CQR-Portland, Or QRP-L #502 ARS #71
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[Elecraft] SSB board problems

2006-08-22 Thread Ian J Maude

Hi all,
I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.
My SSB board seems to have developed a problem.  TX is fine but RX is 
really down.  Even stations who would normally peg the S Meter barely 
register.  If I remove the board and jumper the 2 connectors, the 
receiver springs into life.  I have checked continuity on the torroids 
and checked the pin diodes (in circuit with the diode position on my 
DMM) and all seems to be well.  Voltages on U1 appear to be ok but I am 
getting a small reading on some of the pins that should read zero (in 
the order of 150mV)

Any ideas chaps?

Ian

--
Ian J Maude G0VGS | Sysop GB7MBC DXCluster
http://www.gb7mbc.net
K2 #4044

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[Elecraft] Re: After CW transmit K2 receiver is muted.

2006-08-22 Thread Arato Andras
Dear Tom,

sorry for our strong KFKI spam filter. I am now on GPRS connection so it 
would be difficult to mark your address in my exception list. That is why 
I am answering you here on the list. As you could see my second mail, my 
K2 seems working well now with good RF ground, nevertheless, I am still 
interested in your explanation.

Your questions and my answers follow:

1) Does the K2 truly 'mute'? Or can you hear VERY STRONG signals
weakly? And can you hear the CW sidetone when it is 'muted'?

It sounded like no antenna cable is connected. I could hear the sidetone 
at key down.

2) Does this occur on a specific band? Or does it occur on ANY band?

This happened on all bands. Even switching to other bands the 'mute state' 
did not change.

3) You state that the HI REFLECTED message appears while receiver
is muted... safe to assume that the message ONLY appears during TX
and NOT during RX mode?

The HI REFLECTED message appeared during CW transmission only, after a 
short pause when the 'mute state' happened, or when I wanted to clear that 
state with short key down.

4) You state that the problem occurs with/without the KAT100. DO you
mean that you have actually REMOVED the KAT100 from the K2 and the
problem is still present? Or than you have only set KAT100 to CAL
mode (so it does not attempt to tune) and the message still appears?

I removed the KAT100 at all, and the problem came too.

73! de Andras HA4AA.
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Re: [Elecraft] tokyo high-power whatever it is .................

2006-08-22 Thread Jack Smith



Bob Robertson wrote:

[stuff snipped]  A display showing signals across the band being worked?


  

That's exactly what my Z90 panadapter kit does.

Jack K8ZOA


www.cliftonlaboratories.com
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Re: [Elecraft] tokyo high-power whatever it is ...

2006-08-22 Thread weymouth1
Whatever the Tokyo Hi-Power HT-200 is or is not,
it does have a built-in finger dimple g ...

Weymouth Walker ...
K8EAB
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RE: [Elecraft] SSB board problems

2006-08-22 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ian,

I am going to assume that this SSB adapter was working fine before the
failure, and I'm also going to assume that it attenuates signals when either
the OP1 filter or the CW filter is selected.  If either of these assumptions
is not correct, I may be way off base.

First thing to check is RFC1 and RFC2 - check them for continuity and also
for a possible short to a crystal case.  Slide a piece of paper between the
crystal and the choke as a quick check.

You say you have checked the diodes already, so for now figure that they are
OK.
Check R5 to be sure it is well soldered, and check the soldering of the
diodes and R-paks near the filter.  A bad solder joint can sit there and
work fine for a time, but eventually fail.

Check the operation of the switching control voltages.  RXS (U1 pin 21)
should be active (about 5 volts) when the OP1 filter is selected, and RXC
(U1 pin 22) should be active.  These signals should be mutually exclusive,
and during receive you should have one or the other active, but never both
of them active or inactive at the same time.

If those steps don't correct it, it is at least a good start.  Get back to
us with the results.

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-
 I am hoping someone can point me in the right direction here.
 My SSB board seems to have developed a problem.  TX is fine but RX is
 really down.  Even stations who would normally peg the S Meter barely
 register.  If I remove the board and jumper the 2 connectors, the
 receiver springs into life.  I have checked continuity on the torroids
 and checked the pin diodes (in circuit with the diode position on my
 DMM) and all seems to be well.  Voltages on U1 appear to be ok but I am
 getting a small reading on some of the pins that should read zero (in
 the order of 150mV)
 Any ideas chaps?

 Ian


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RE: [Elecraft] K2 QSK On OFF and Auto Detect

2006-08-22 Thread Dan Barker
ADeT works great for most of us who use it. A few folks have had issues with
it, maybe diode tolerances or keying style. Anyhow, you can turn it off.

Only users with problems typically post on the reflector. I, and all the
others successfully using ADeT often remain silent.

To sacrifice ADeT for something only one user needs would be foolish (in my
opinion).

Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456

snip
Get rid of the auto detect from memory, then a few things really worthwhile
could be added.. :Such as QSKdefaulted to Off On Turn On, Yes or  No.
/snip

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[Elecraft] Does KX1 have CW spot?

2006-08-22 Thread Steven Pituch
Hi all,
I have a K2 and use the CW spot function a lot to zero beat the signals I
want to work.   Is there a way to zero beat signals with the KX1?  I am
thinking that it can be done because of the CW announce function but would
like to know how KX1 owners zero beat without transmitting.

Steve, W2MY

-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.405 / Virus Database: 268.11.3/423 - Release Date: 8/18/2006
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 QSK On OFF and Auto Detect

2006-08-22 Thread Don Nesbitt
Ouch!  I use Auto-Detect all the time when contesting with the K2 and it 
works flawlessly for me!  Please don't tamper with it!


Frankly, QSK On/Off doesn't do anything for me.  If space could be found for 
the code, I'd prefer to see the ability to assign a different MODE to each 
VFO and have the ability to do it on a per-band basis - to me that would be 
really worthwhile!


73 es gud dxing -- Don N4HH
(. . . something about the eye of the beholder seems appropriate here . . .)

W7IS Wrote:
SNIP

The necessary space in memory could be made available by dropping the
Auto-Detect feature.  That feature is buggy  anyway.
Get rid of the auto detect from memory, then a few things really 
worthwhile

could be added.. :Such as QSKdefaulted to Off On Turn On, Yes or  No.

SNIP
Frank W7IS 


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RE: [Elecraft] Re: Tokyo Hy-Power QRP Rig

2006-08-22 Thread Steve
 

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Eric 
 Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Re: Tokyo Hy-Power QRP Rig
 
 What K3? We certainly have not announced anything like that. 
 We're busy making and shipping K1s, K2s and KX1s. :-)
  ^^^?

What?  No amplifiers?
Steve
Aa8af


 
 I believe Wayne was comparing the K2 to this rig. It looks 
 like it would be a step backward for us to head its direction.
 
 73, Eric   WA6HHQ
 -

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Re: [Elecraft] tokyo high-power whatever it is

2006-08-22 Thread ron

sorry, but there really is no limited supply of crude oil,
it's a controlled market.
Remember Enron??

The rest, I agree with you.

Ron, wb1hga

Bob Robertson wrote:


BUT

There's a limited supply of crude oil, and  there's a somewhat limited number of potential customers for the existing Elecraft product line.  


Some people aren't interested in a KW linear, and that includes me.  Some aren't 
interested in the transverters.  Some people build for the challenge and/or pride of 
having done it by myself.  Some don't backpack preferring to work from inside 
air conditioned rooms (it was 103 yesterday).

Not everyone is going to buy one of everything, if for no other reason than 
lack of .




snip
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[Elecraft] For Sale: K2 w/options - Serious Offers Considered

2006-08-22 Thread Charlie Hicks
All items sold except the K2 below.  Thanks for the responses.

 

Here's the details:

 

My father (K6AXS ex: KE0PG, WA0UMR now SK) built this K2 and 

options in 2002.  He became a SK in early 2003.  I had the best

intentions to use it and subsequently bought additional 

Elecraft kits and a used KAT100, all of which I have hardly touched.

I am just not using it and don't see getting back to it in the near term.

 

Note: I will guarantee this rig to work to spec.  If you find anything wrong
with it 

I'll either refund your money or make it right by agreement.  If you want
references,

let me know.

 

K2 - SN 2744 (original invoice included)

Built in 2002.  My father sent it to Elecraft in Oct., 2002 for a problem.  

Elecraft repaired and aligned the rig. (I never heard what the problem was).

I also have the receipt for the repair.

 

Construction is clean, rig works great.  

 

Included options w/K2:

- KSB2 SSB 

- Noise blanker

- Finger Dimple for tuning knob

 

The original manual is included, as is some errata sheets, etc.

 

I also have a Nifty Quick Reference Manual for the K2 I'll throw in.  That
alone

was about $20 or so and is an excellent reference.

 

I ordered the K2 MCU and IOC firmware upgrade 2.04 (not installed)

and SSB FW upgrade 1.08 (not installed) and will include them.

 

NO power supply included.

 

Note: I originally had the Heil mic listed with it but sold it separately
and lowered the rig price.

 

Sell for: $730 + ship w/insurance from 68046

 

SERIOUS OFFERS CONSIDERED!  But please don't lowball me..

 

Email me at: [EMAIL PROTECTED] or call me at (402) 677-6936

 

Thanks,  Charlie K0CKH

 

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RE: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with dipole

2006-08-22 Thread Jack Regan

Dan,

FWIW, at home I run my KX1 into a trapped 40 meter dipole (only 38ft. long)
that is resonate around 7.040. I have a HI-Q 1:1 balun installed and have
75ft of feedline. The dipole is a flattop running NE to SW up about 40 ft. I
have worked Alaska and NM and AZ and Southern California to mention just a
few of my QRP contacts. I also run 13.8 watts into the unit at home. On the
KX1 it shows a .5 Volt drop to 13.5.  I have the internal tuner for the KX1
installed and I set it for CAL mode and I get 4+ watts and 1.0 SWR out of
it. I can work up to 7.058 and down some with switching to Tun mode.

I also run the unit outdoors into long wires (usuually 28 ft with
counterpoises) and use the TUN mode and get very low SWR readings and
perhaps a half watt less power. The reduction in power might be attributted
to the lower power into the unit. I use a small 2800AH 12 volt batter that
charges to about 13.5 and delivers at least 12 volts by the time I use it in
the field.

Jack Regan, AE6GC
 
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Dan Presley
Sent: Tuesday, August 22, 2006 12:13 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with dipole

I was out in the woods of Oregon today (up by the coast range town of 
Jewell) with my KX 1 and a few different antennas. I used a long wire 
for a while, but then for the heck of it I set up a 40M inverted vee 
with my portable mast. The KXAT1 had no trouble with the long wire 
(and counterpoises) bringing it right down to 1:1, but no such luck 
with the dipole ( cut to resonate on 40, and fed w/RG 174).I've used 
this antenna a bunch w/ the K2 and it's pretty much a 1:1, but when 
using the KX1 atu I got around 9:5 SWR! So, I promptly forgot how to 
bypass the tuner (until I got home and re-read the manual;set it to 
'CAL':).But,also in the manual it states that it'll match most coax 
type dipoles, etc.Elsewhere it's stated that it won't match a half 
wave length,but I wasn't clear if that's only for a half wave end 
fed.I'll bet it's the same for a resonant dipole as it's a ground 
independent half wave, but maybe someone who has come up against this 
before can clarify as far as the tuner is concerned. I usually bring 
a separate antenna 'dipper' just to check the antenna in case there's 
a short or bad coax,etc., but that got left behind. Just for 
reference, I use the lightweight dipole kit from N2CX with a nice 
sealed center insulator and RG 174 (I know it's not the most 
efficient, but for a short run it's fine and very lightweight). I'm 
still trying to find more of the type of wire he used in there-it's 
springy yet has a great slick and tough coating which holds up well 
in trees, etc, It's also a light yellow in color so it blends 
nicely.N2CX quit making these kits a while back and ran out of that 
wire.The 'Wireman' sells some similar stuff,(524?) but it's still not 
the same.
Any thought appreciated on the tuner-I'm trying to get as much 
outdoor radio time in before summer ends:)
-- 
Dan Presley-N7CQR-Portland, Or QRP-L #502 ARS #71
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 insensitive on 20...or is it?

2006-08-22 Thread Rod Ai7NN

Folks,

Found another must read tutorial on propagation. It is a paper
presented by Paul Harden, NA5N at FDIM 2005 (QRP ARCI Event). Paul is
the Propagation Guru in Residence on the QRP-L list. You can find
Paul's presentation here:

http://www.qrparci.org/mambo/pdf/FDIM81.pdf

IMHO if you read only one paper about propagation, this should be it.

Enjoy.

73, Rod Ai7NN

On 8/21/06, Rod Ai7NN [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

Folks,

Found a few more good HF Propagation primers:


...
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Re: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with dipole

2006-08-22 Thread Bob Cunnings

You don't mention on what band you were trying to get a match... 40 meters?

If so, I can relate that once in a while, my KXAT1 seems to get
stuck in the sense that I can't get a match even when it's a easy
scenario - such as resonant antenna fed with 50 ohm coax. I've learned
that by using TUNE at some point of the band considerably removed from
my initial freq, the KXAT1 will snap out of it, and get a nice
match. Returning to the original freq and using TUNE again results in
a good match, and all is well.

It happened just this past weekend... I went into the field and put up
my nice portable 20 m ground plane vertical, which presents a nearly
perfect match to coax, but couldn't get a match with the KXAT1 at
14.060... odd. After checking connections, etc. I simply moved to
14.200 and got  the usual good match in just a few clicks of the
relays. Returned to 14.060 and all was well, I could re-tune at will
without trouble.

It happens rarely, and I've always been able to recover by shifting
freq temporarily - or once, by tuning into a dummy load. I've checked
by KXATI construction and alignment several times, seems to be ok.My
suspicions center on the SWR bridge and nulling, but usually it works
just fine. Maybe I'll find a cold solder joint some day if I keep
looking.

RC

On 8/22/06, Dan Presley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I was out in the woods of Oregon today (up by the coast range town of
Jewell) with my KX 1 and a few different antennas. I used a long wire
for a while, but then for the heck of it I set up a 40M inverted vee
with my portable mast. The KXAT1 had no trouble with the long wire
(and counterpoises) bringing it right down to 1:1, but no such luck
with the dipole ( cut to resonate on 40, and fed w/RG 174).I've used
this antenna a bunch w/ the K2 and it's pretty much a 1:1, but when
using the KX1 atu I got around 9:5 SWR! So, I promptly forgot how to
bypass the tuner (until I got home and re-read the manual;set it to
'CAL':).But,also in the manual it states that it'll match most coax
type dipoles, etc.Elsewhere it's stated that it won't match a half
wave length,but I wasn't clear if that's only for a half wave end
fed.I'll bet it's the same for a resonant dipole as it's a ground
independent half wave, but maybe someone who has come up against this
before can clarify as far as the tuner is concerned. I usually bring
a separate antenna 'dipper' just to check the antenna in case there's
a short or bad coax,etc., but that got left behind. Just for
reference, I use the lightweight dipole kit from N2CX with a nice
sealed center insulator and RG 174 (I know it's not the most
efficient, but for a short run it's fine and very lightweight). I'm
still trying to find more of the type of wire he used in there-it's
springy yet has a great slick and tough coating which holds up well
in trees, etc, It's also a light yellow in color so it blends
nicely.N2CX quit making these kits a while back and ran out of that
wire.The 'Wireman' sells some similar stuff,(524?) but it's still not
the same.
Any thought appreciated on the tuner-I'm trying to get as much
outdoor radio time in before summer ends:)
--
Dan Presley-N7CQR-Portland, Or QRP-L #502 ARS #71
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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RE: [Elecraft] KXAT1 with dipole

2006-08-22 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Dan wrote:

I was out in the woods of Oregon today (up by the coast range town of 
Jewell) with my KX 1 and a few different antennas. I used a long wire 
for a while, but then for the heck of it I set up a 40M inverted vee 
with my portable mast. The KXAT1 had no trouble with the long wire 
(and counterpoises) bringing it right down to 1:1, but no such luck 
with the dipole ( cut to resonate on 40, and fed w/RG 174).I've used 
this antenna a bunch w/ the K2 and it's pretty much a 1:1, but when 
using the KX1 atu I got around 9:5 SWR! 

---

You should not have had any trouble with a center fed dipole, Dan. The issue
with the KX1 ATU, as with any ATU, is impedance extremes. Because of the
limited number of inductors and capacitors that could be fitted into the
tiny space available in the KX1, it has a more limited tuning range than any
of the other Elecraft tuners. 

The end of a dipole presents a very high impedance, possibly in the
thousands of ohms. At the other extreme, a very short antenna will present a
very low impedance, often less than an ohm. Actually, end-fed short antennas
often tune up more easily because they are working against ground and
typically Hams have lousy RF grounds G. Even with several radials the
ground impedance will likely be in the tens or, more likely, the hundreds of
ohms. That's in series with the antenna so what the tuner is matching is a
total impedance of perhaps a hundred ohms or more. The fraction of an ohm
that the antenna represents is just part of the total. It's also why such
antennas have a very, very low efficiency: often less than a few percent. 

In your case, I'd suspect you had an unlucky length of feed line. Unless the
SWR is truly 1:1 on that feeder, something that is almost never achieved in
practice, the feed line acts like a random impedance transformer. I suspect
you got unlucky and the combination of the effect of surrounding objects,
antenna length, feeder impedance and feeder length all added up to an
impedance the KX1 ATU couldn't handle. Adding a few feet of feed line will
usually fix that. 

Another possibility is a short or open, as you suggested. 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ATU is resetting from TUN to CAL by itself

2006-08-22 Thread Michael Madden
Hi David and the group,

I am on my way to ruling things out as to the source
of the bug I am seeing:

1) I can make it happen with a commercial power supply
and dummy load.  The power supply has nothing homebrew
about it, and I checked that the plug fit correctly
into the KX1.

2) I took the internal batteries out while testing to
rule out that the plug was bad and the power was
intermittently reverting back to the 9V internal.  I
did not see anything reset or power cycle, just the
TUN-CAL bug described earlier.

3) When the rig does automatically go from TUN to CAL
when I transmit, if I turn the rig off, and then turn
it back on, it goes back to TUN, with the correct L
and C values from before the glitch.  

If I purposely turn the ATU to from TUN to CAL and
then turn the rig off and on, it stays in CAL mode, as
expected.  This leads me to believe it is not a
problem with the MCU going to a bogus state, but a
glitch in a relay control line that is causing a relay
to flip.  

4) Similar to 3, when I see it switch from TUN to CAL
on a transmit, and I switch bands, and then switch
back to the original band, the ATU state returns back
to the correct TUN state with the correct L and C
values.

5) I re-soldered all the caps on the ATU board and any
other connections that looked suspect.  No change.

My next step is to try the add'l bypass caps on the
relay control lines, as Wayne suggested.  I'm leaving
that till last to see if I can pinpoint the cause of
the problem before adding extra hardware to mask it.  

David, G4DMP, thanks for your feedback on the good
result from adding the bypass caps.  That encourages
me that this will solve (mask) the problem.

Thanks to all who sent me suggestions so far.

73,
Mike N9OHW

--- David Pratt [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Hello Mike -
 I had a similar problem a while ago and Wayne
 suggested fitting some 
 bypass capacitors in various places around the
 processor on the ATU 
 board. Unfortunately I am unable to get to either
 the information or the 
 rig at the moment as the contents of the shack are
 in storage due to 
 building repairs.
 
 In my case, during an over while I was transmitting,
 the KX1 started 
 retuning the antenna and ended up with a very low
 power and a high SWR. 
 Fitting the capacitors as Wayne suggested totally
 cured the problem.
 
 73
 
 David G4DMP
 
 In a recent message, Michael Madden
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote ...
 I took the KX1 out yesterday for more field
 testing.
 This time, I wrapped with a torroid the 6
 unshielded
 lead from the external battery holder.  The idea
 here
 was that RF was getting into the 6 battery lead
 and
 somehow the dirty DC was tripping the ATU
 controller.
 
 Well, at first, it seemed like the problem was
 solved.
  But after about 1 hr of having the KX1 on, I
 started
 getting the problem again.  (The problem with the
 ATU
 switching from TUN to CAL by itself when I start
 transmitting.)  This time, I only saw it on 30M. 
 But
 it was intermittent:  when it started happening, I
 shut the rig off, turned it back on, switched
 bands,
 and then I wouldn't get it for a while.
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] tokyo high-power whatever it is .................

2006-08-22 Thread Mike Harris

G'day,

snip
How about a 20/25 amp noise free switcher PS and an external 
amplified speaker in a single EC2?

snip

First class idea.

Also I would like to make my nearly annual request for A/B VFO mode 
retention.  The lack of this facility is a real pain in a multi mode 
contest.


Regards,

Mike VP8NO 



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[Elecraft] ANCHORS AWAY !!!

2006-08-22 Thread Ed - K9EW

It's time to find a new home for many of the Boatanchors that I
haven't used in quite a while and probably never will.  Of course,
I'll probably regret this once they're gone, but it seems like they
deserve to be used more than I'm using them.

So here goes...

FOR SALE:
DX-100B  ($200 - too heavy to ship)
DX-35  ($75 + shipping)
DX-20  ($65 + shipping)
HQ-170  ($175 + shipping)
VIKING RANGER ($250 + shipping)
GLOBE CHIEF 90A  ($150 + shipping)
VIBROPLEX SINGLE LEVER PADDLE  ($50 + shipping)

Photos will be on www.k9ew.net this evening.  Please contact me
Off-List if you're interested.

Tnx es 73,
ed - k9ew
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Re: [Elecraft] ANCHORS AWAY !!!

2006-08-22 Thread David A. Belsley

VIKING RANGER ($250 + shipping)


I or II?


-
david a. belsley
professor of economics

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[Elecraft] 5703 is here!

2006-08-22 Thread Bill Carpenter
K2 5703 is here!  Got it inventoried and was missing just 3 caps.  I emailed 
Elecraft and I've already received a live response that the caps will be on 
the way tomorrow - very impressive.
I got started on the control board already and got up through diodes and 
decided to have a brew and relax.  I have to admit that I was getting 
intimidated during the inventory - man, there are a lot of parts and I 
haven't touched the accessories yet.  Those will wait until the K2 is done. 
But once I started building I realized it's just a matter of putting parts 
on a board and if I take it slow and check my work sooner or later I'll have 
a neat little rig.


73,

Bill NZ0T 



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[Elecraft] K2 #5570 completed

2006-08-22 Thread John Reiser
Hello everyone,

I'm happy to announce that K2 # 5570 is up and running.  The build went without 
a hitch, and everything is working as it is supposed to.  What an amazing 
little rig!  I took my time and savored each step along the way.

Actually, this is my second K2.  Currently it has the KSB2, KNB2, and K160RX 
options installed.  I have the KPA100 and KDSP2 on order.  I guess that makes 
me an Elecraft junkie for sure.

73,

John, W2GW

K2 #5570; K2(100) #4970; K1 #2105; KX1 #1258; KAT100; T1; etc. 





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RE: [Elecraft] Does KX1 have CW spot?

2006-08-22 Thread Don Wilhelm
Steve,

Well, if the KX1 had all the features of the K2, it would likely be the size
of the K2 as well.  There is no CW Spot button on the KX1, so you will have
to guess.  You are not likely to be so far off that you miss QSOs because of
it.

I might point out that the N0SS Tuning SMD Indicator is usable in the KX1
see www.n0ss.net .

73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-

 Hi all,
 I have a K2 and use the CW spot function a lot to zero beat the signals I
 want to work.   Is there a way to zero beat signals with the KX1?  I am
 thinking that it can be done because of the CW announce function but would
 like to know how KX1 owners zero beat without transmitting.

 Steve, W2MY


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RE: [Elecraft] Alignment Test II

2006-08-22 Thread C Dwight Baker

Don, thanks for the help, at least I think we are getting close to solving
this mystery to me.  I can converse with you on tubes, but this solid state
stuff is new to me.  Shows you how old I is.

Pin 1 of U1 has 6 volts present and will not go to zero as you suggested.
Pin 3 of U1 reads zero.  As you indicated that is my problem.

Following the steps in the manual and your advice I was able to get the high
reading of 12101.18 and the low 12091.42. The following voltages are:  U6,
Pin 1 high 7.64v and low 11.4 microvolts (?); U6 Pin 3 high 4.06v and low
11.4 microvolts.  I measured Pin 20 of U6 to be 6 volts.

I lifted R19 and the readings were 4.08 before and 7.64 afterwards.

I removed the thermistor board and checked the resistors and found no
errors.  I examined the board around the thermistor and found no solder
bridges as you suggested I might have.

Anyway, I think you are about to resolve my issues to which I appreciate.

Dwight  W4IJY  K2 #4766 
-Original Message-
From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 10:32 PM
To: C Dwight Baker
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment  Test II

Dwight,

The real problem is that U1 pin 1 is not going to zero.  Now take a tiny
step to try to discover the cause - do the same test of the PLL range (you
can ignore the frequencies for this), but check the voltage at U6 pin 3 when
the BAND+ button is tapped and also when the BAND- button is tapped.  We
want to see the voltage at pin 3 go from about 4 volts to about zero volts.

If you do get the 0 to 4 volt swing at pin 3, then the firmware and DAC are
doing the job properly, you will find the problem on the thermistor board,
and the most likely is a solder bridge between pins 5 and 6 - the pads get
quite close to each other there and a solder bridge is easy to create.

The 0 to 4 volt swing at U6 pin 3 should make the voltage at U6 pin 1 swing
from 0 to 8 volts if the resistors in the op amp circuit (mainly the
thermistor board) are correct.  If you need to convince yourself that the
pin 1 output is not being loaded down, just lift one end of R19 and repeat
the test.  U6 should have twice as much voltage on pin 1 as is put onto pin
3 when all is well with the resistor network.


73,
Don W3FPR


 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of C Dwight Baker
 Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 8:52 PM
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment  Test II


 Don, I followed your suggestions and I am still at the same place
 I started.


 I began by following the schematic as you suggested and marked each
 component as I verified the correct values and type.  I found no
 errors (at
 least I didn't but it doesn't mean I erred again).

 It appears I had a solder bridge between pins 4 and 5 on U6.  I
 replaced D16
 veractor MV209 and did not have another D17 ISV149 so the old one is still
 there.

 The readings remained virtually the same as before.  The voltages
 at U6 pin
 1 were as follows:  High 12103.15, voltage 7.61; low 1209.03,
 voltage 3.74.

 Pin 8 of the thermistor board was 7.97 and pins 6 and 7 measured
 3.96.  Pin
 1 measured 7.64.  The line voltage at the power plug was 14.3 volts.

 I am curious why the voltage on the lower reading did not go to near zero.
 Would Q19 (J310), D17 be faulty and what effect does U4 have?

 I appreciate your time for leading this BOOF (burnt out old f-rt) through
 the dark.

 Thanks again,

 Dwight W4IJY  K2 4766
 -Original Message-
 From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Monday, August 21, 2006 9:17 AM
 To: C Dwight Baker; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Alignment  Test II

 Dwight,

 Don't be concerned about the setting of C22 until after you have finished
 the entire build - just set it to mid-position for now.  You will want to
 re-do CAL PLL and CAL FIL after you are done with the 4 MHz oscillator set
 precisely to achieve good dial calibration.  The K2 does not use the 4 MHz
 oscillator on a real time basis, only during CAL PLL and CAL FIL
 operations.

 Now in to your problem.  Yes, your PLL high and low frequencies
 are too high
 and the range is too small.
 Turn your manual to the back and find the schematic for the RF
 Board - sheet
 1.  Then find the area in the left upper corner marked PLL Reference
 Oscillator.  Check all the components associated with that circuit,
 especially the capacitors, varactors, and inductor L31 for proper
 values and
 make certain they are in the correct holes.  Re-verify that D16
 and D17 are
 correct - D16 is the larger bodied varactor and D17 is the smaller.

 After verifying the components above, go back to CAL FCTR with
 the probe in
 TP3, tap the BAND+ button and read the high frequency, then measure the
 voltage at U6 pin 1 (it should be near 8 volts).
 Then tap the BAND- button and read the low frequency and measure
 the voltage
 at U6 pin 1 (now should be near zero volts).

 Did you obtain a correct 

RE: [Elecraft] Does KX1 have CW spot?

2006-08-22 Thread Alan Biocca
Since the one single channel DDS is used for transmit and receive, and it 
is bumped in frequency a bit for the required offset between the two modes, 
it is hard to do a spot function since that small low power DDS chip only 
does one frequency at a time.


-- Alan wb6zqz



 -Original Message-

 Hi all,
 I have a K2 and use the CW spot function a lot to zero beat the signals I
 want to work.   Is there a way to zero beat signals with the KX1?  I am
 thinking that it can be done because of the CW announce function but would
 like to know how KX1 owners zero beat without transmitting.

 Steve, W2MY


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