Re: [Elecraft] K1 Dumb Question
You could put a switch across the diodes so that you can shunt around them when the battery voltage reaches a safer level. Paul WD8OJL Roger said: You can connect diodes in series with the power input. The voltage drop will e the junction voltage plus the the IR drop due to the current. You can find out the total drop by measuring the current drain and going to the spec sheet on the diode used. The spec sheets can be found by doing a Google search on the part number of the diode used. Roger K7RXV ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 TX allign
I am using the internal wattmeter. I set the power for 2.0 watts. Enter tune mode and adjust L1 and 2. I can adjust L1 through 2.0 watts .. all the way to 6.0 watts. Is this normal? Should I use that reading or tune back to 2 or 3 watts? Dohn N8EWY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 TX allign
Dohn, A power increase during that tuning is normal - just exit TUNE and reenter TUNE to drop the power back down to 2 watts. Yes, the power will increase as you near the peak. You should do the final peaking wiht the power set to something low - there is nothing magic about the 2 watts, you can use any low power - anything between 1 and 2 watts will work nicely. If you did the bandpass filter peaking on receive first, you should not have to move the slugs very far when 'fine-tuning' them on transmit. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I am using the internal wattmeter. I set the power for 2.0 watts. Enter tune mode and adjust L1 and 2. I can adjust L1 through 2.0 watts .. all the way to 6.0 watts. Is this normal? Should I use that reading or tune back to 2 or 3 watts? Dohn N8EWY -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.4/563 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:59 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1!
Hello all, Well I now have what's called a Kangaroo KX1! It hiked 2-miles up the mountain to Pulpit Rock on the AT. I setup my BW Vertical and my KX1. I then hit the tune buttons and NO POWER OUTPUT! I then put my KX1 under my shirt to warm it up. I waited about five minutes and hooked it up to my BW - full power output 4w! I had to do this every qso and make the qso short so I could keep my KX1 transmitting in the cold weather that was below freezing. So during the breaks, I was walking around with my KX1 tucked on my belly under my two shirts and two fleece jackets just like a Kangaroo thus the name Kangaroo KX1. I will troubleshoot my KX1 soon with freeze mist. I plan to first put my KX1 tuner in the CAL mode to bypass it and see if the problem is in the tuner. If not then hit the transmitter with Freeze-Mist to find the bad component. 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Com port problem
I would not advise using any USB serial adapter with the KIO2. The KIO2 output is not a standard serial port. There is an AUXBUS output on one of the pins. I seem to recall that a few people have damaged their K2s by using standard serial cables that had something else connected to this pin. Do you know what is connected to this pin on your USB adapter? -- Julian, G4ILO K2 #392 G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com Reply via list or www.g4ilo.com/email.html Fred Bennett wrote: Hi Gang I just came back from the local electronics superstore with a USB to 2 port serial converter made by SIIG. My aim was to get rid of the usb to serial converter pigtails cluttering up the place. The new usb-to-serial converter won't work with the K2. It works fine with my FT-990. And I have tried switching the ports (IE port1 to 990, port 2 to K2 and vice versa). During all tests the FT-990 communicates fine with the computer but the K2 does not. The K2 seems to work fine when plugged back into the USB-to-serial pigtail from a different manufacturer. There may not be a solution to this, but I thought I'd give the brain-trust here a crack before I box the thing up and take it back to the electronics superstore...that is a 3 hour round trip. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Com port problem
Fred, Since the K2 works with one adapter but not another, look at the setup info on both adapters - are the parameters similar? what are the differences? Keep asking yourself questions like that until you either have it working or decide to make that 3 hour round trip. The K2 connects only the data transmit and receive lines, no hardware handshaking is implemented, and the data rate is at 4800 baud. Nothing fancy, but the computer software settings must be set to comply with the K2 setup. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I just came back from the local electronics superstore with a USB to 2 port serial converter made by SIIG. My aim was to get rid of the usb to serial converter pigtails cluttering up the place. The new usb-to-serial converter won't work with the K2. It works fine with my FT-990. And I have tried switching the ports (IE port1 to 990, port 2 to K2 and vice versa). During all tests the FT-990 communicates fine with the computer but the K2 does not. The K2 seems to work fine when plugged back into the USB-to-serial pigtail from a different manufacturer. There may not be a solution to this, but I thought I'd give the brain-trust here a crack before I box the thing up and take it back to the electronics superstore...that is a 3 hour round trip. -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.4/563 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:59 AM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Com port problem
I'm using the com cable that I made when I constructed the KIO2 and I left out ALL but the standard RS232 connections when I made the cable (as per the instructions). I returned the usb-to-serial box this morningso the immediate problem is solved. With a little research I've found that the Keyspan brand of 4 port usb-to-serial gizmos seem to win ham cudos. Seeing as they cost about $130 I think I'll ask Santa for that one. I wonder when ham manufacturers will drop the durn RS232 ports and pick up USB. It seems that it is WAY past the time when this should have happened!! I wonder if ELECRAFT might decide to lead the pack with a new optionsay KUSB2?? The problem with that is Elecraft has designed in the need for RS232 by using the same cable for other modules such as the QRO tuner. 73deFred N9TA -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Julian, G4ILO Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:20 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Com port problem I would not advise using any USB serial adapter with the KIO2. The KIO2 output is not a standard serial port. There is an AUXBUS output on one of the pins. I seem to recall that a few people have damaged their K2s by using standard serial cables that had something else connected to this pin. Do you know what is connected to this pin on your USB adapter? -- Julian, G4ILO K2 #392 G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com Reply via list or www.g4ilo.com/email.html Fred Bennett wrote: Hi Gang I just came back from the local electronics superstore with a USB to 2 port serial converter made by SIIG. My aim was to get rid of the usb to serial converter pigtails cluttering up the place. The new usb-to-serial converter won't work with the K2. It works fine with my FT-990. And I have tried switching the ports (IE port1 to 990, port 2 to K2 and vice versa). During all tests the FT-990 communicates fine with the computer but the K2 does not. The K2 seems to work fine when plugged back into the USB-to-serial pigtail from a different manufacturer. There may not be a solution to this, but I thought I'd give the brain-trust here a crack before I box the thing up and take it back to the electronics superstore...that is a 3 hour round trip. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Com port problem
On Saturday 02 December 2006 17:51, Fred Bennett wrote: I just came back from the local electronics superstore with a USB to 2 port serial converter made by SIIG. I bought a VSCOMM PCI dual serial card for a year old compaq computer that had no serial ports. I had to find a supplier on the Internet because stores don't stock them. Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 -- ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Com port problem
i've been successful with used usb to serial edgeports very expensive new but very inexpensive on the baysite\ bill ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] RE: K2 weird problem
Good goin' Gregg. Glad you were able to track that down...must have been a tough one. Good luck with the tune up and hope everthing goes smooth from here. Stan W5EWA Houston Gregg mulder [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Just wanted to let all of the folks assisting me with this problem, what i found. Yes the problem appeared to be somthing not right with Q1 on the ssb brd. After replcing Q1,Q2,Q3, and a dozen or so associated components, i started tracing signals. When sigs at ALC threshold on U2 (Max 522) didn't match the sig on emitter of Q1, i noticed that this signal gets routed from the top of the brd down to the bottem of the brd thru an empty thru-hole plated hole. When i soldered that empty thru hole full of solder, i got this problem to go away. Apparently the thru -hole plating had an intermittent connection. This explains why it would somtimes work with the brd just plugged in (not screwed down) es the when tightened down, quit working. ( flex on the brd opened the ckt) It would seem that the thru hole plating on this particular ckt brd was not up to par, or had opened up during shipping. So this problem is fixed. Now ive got other problems. Don't think they are related. Power out put drops off seriosly on 20 15 es 10 meters 20, max pwr out = 5 w. 15 = 1 w. 10 = less than 1 watt. May just be improper alignment. I'll let you know what i find. Suggestions wellcome. I'd like to agn thank all of the fine people on this reflector for all ur help. The caliber of support for Elecraft products is exceptional, and i have confidence that this rig will be playing as it should very soon. VY 73's to all, Gregg Mulder ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Com port problem
Yes, the model I mentioned is a 4 Port device. _ From: Stan Rife [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 1:38 PM To: Fred Bennett; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Com port problem Fred, that is way too much money for that adapter. I am getting the Keyspan USB to Serial adapters at Fry's for 39 bucks. Maybe the one you are looking at is a multi port version or something. Check out Fry's online. I am using two of the adapters here and they work like a champ. I do not have the K2 plugged in to one, but I don't see any reason why it wont work. It imulates a standard serial port so you should be good to go. Stan W5EWA Fred Bennett [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I'm using the com cable that I made when I constructed the KIO2 and I left out ALL but the standard RS232 connections when I made the cable (as per the instructions). I returned the usb-to-serial box this morningso the immediate problem is solved. With a little research I've found that the Keyspan brand of 4 port usb-to-serial gizmos seem to win ham cudos. Seeing as they cost about $130 I think I'll ask Santa for that one. I wonder when ham manufacturers will drop the durn RS232 ports and pick up USB. It seems that it is WAY past the time when this should have happened!! I wonder if ELECRAFT might decide to lead the pack with a new optionsay KUSB2?? The problem with that is Elecraft has designed in the need for RS232 by using the same cable for other modules such as the QRO tuner. 73deFred N9TA -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Julian, G4ILO Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:20 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Com port problem I would not advise using any USB serial adapter with the KIO2. The KIO2 output is not a standard serial port. There is an AUXBUS output on one of the pins. I seem to recall that a few people have damaged their K2s by using standard serial cables that had something else connected to this pin. Do you know what is connected to this pin on your USB adapter? -- Julian, G4ILO K2 #392 G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com Reply via list or www.g4ilo.com/email.html Fred Bennett wrote: Hi Gang I just came back from the local electronics superstore with a USB to 2 port serial converter made by SIIG. My aim was to get rid of the usb to serial converter pigtails cluttering up the place. The new usb-to-serial converter won't work with the K2. It works fine with my FT-990. And I have tried switching the ports (IE port1 to 990, port 2 to K2 and vice versa). During all tests the FT-990 communicates fine with the computer but the K2 does not. The K2 seems to work fine when plugged back into the USB-to-serial pigtail from a different manufacturer. There may not be a solution to this, but I thought I'd give the brain-trust here a crack before I box the thing up and take it back to the electronics superstore...that is a 3 hour round trip. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: Pops and clicks on send
Don: See comments * between asterisks * Heartfelt thanks for your very valuable help. 73, Steve At 07:43 AM 12/3/2006, you wrote: Steve, Until you get acquainted with it, any menu seems cryptic, the K2 is no exception. I will let you play with my mini VHF/UHF handheld if you want a cryptic menu to deal with (and documentation in broken English to boot). I have had it for 6 years and still have not figured it out! About all I do with it is listen to a few repeaters since I have not been able to set it up G. *** I know what you mean. I been using a Japanese VCR for over 20 years. It still runs fine, but I still have to painfully follow its very cryptic manual to program it to do anything. It only took me about 10 minutes to get a handle on the K2 menu. *** On the K2, the 8R signal is the control for muting and turning things on and off when switching from transmit to receive. If the t-r delay is set to 0.00, then 8r hold or 8r normal should operate just about the same. If 8R is set to hold, then the receiver should remain muted for the time set into the T-R value. The range on t-r is from 0.00 to 2.55 seconds. Try a t-r setting of 0.10 along with 8R hold and see if the clicks remain. T-R = 0.05 and 8r hold eliminates virtually all clicks in my particular rig. Also listen closely to try to determine whether the clicks are on the start of keying or when the key is released. * Mostly on release * With the KDSP2 installed, there is a muting circuit on the KDSP2 as well as the normal muting on the K2 Control Board, and I have not really figured out why there is an occasional K2 that suffers from these clicks - I just know that some K2s have them (these are only audio clicks, they are not transmitted. No transmitted clicks is the thing that really matters. What I have figured out is that the KPA100 T/R switch somehow is involved in these audio clicks, and it does revolve around the relative timing of the individual circuits. I have not yet had an occasion to add the letest KPA100 upgrade to a K2 which has this click condition, but I have a suspicion that it would help since the KPA100 T/R switch operation was changed with the KPA100UPKT - this is a hardware only change, the software is not involved. ** I find no mention of this on the Elecraft site. Is it new? Can the replacement hardware be purchased from Elecraft? BTW, my rig is fairly recent. It was constructed in March 2006. Does it already include the hardware upgrade? ** 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: Stephen W. Kercel [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Saturday, December 02, 2006 9:57 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: RE:Pops and clicks on send Don: T ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] RE: K2 output power high bands
Gregg, Glad to hear you have the KSB2 problem licked - that was a tough one! On your power output on the higher bands, the first thing to check is T2 - it should have the correct number of turns and look just like the diagram in the manual - it is also good to space this transformer above the board by about 1/8 inch - it will self support on its own leads. T4 is another possibility and T1 as well. Is there any chance that T4 is installed backwards? Are the two links on T4 installed correctly? Are both Z1 and Z2 in place? C127 and C128 should be installed correctly, well soldered and should be 680 pf. If all that checks out, try comparing the RF Voltage produced by a normal output band with one of the low output bands (turn the power all the way up when doing that test) - check at several points along the transmit chain - Q5 base (junction of R40 and R41 can be reached from the top), Q5 collector (case), Q6 base, Q6 collector, Q7/8 base and if you are using a 'scope with an 10X probe, the collector of Q7/8 (do not measure that with an RF Probe, the diode may be zapped by the RF Voltage). Due to the way the K2 power control circuits work, you can expect to see a higher RF voltage on the 'bad' bands than the 'good' bands up to the point where the problem exists. Again, crank the power up to full when doing this comparison test - if you leave it low, everything may look good on all bands and your testing will be inconclusive. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- Now ive got other problems. Don't think they are related. Power out put drops off seriosly on 20 15 es 10 meters 20, max pwr out = 5 w. 15 = 1 w. 10 = less than 1 watt. May just be improper alignment. I'll let you know what i find. Suggestions wellcome. I'd like to agn thank all of the fine people on this reflector for all ur help. The caliber of support for Elecraft products is exceptional, and i have confidence that this rig will be playing as it should very soon. VY 73's to all, Gregg Mulder -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/565 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:39 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1!
Ed, Before going too far with the Freeze-Mist treatment, try reflowing the soldering. I would suspect a solder joint that makes and breaks as the PC board changes size slightly with the temperature change. Especially check the toroid lead soldering. The soldering is much higher on my suspect list than any component. Does it receive even though it does not transmit? If that answer is yes, you can rule out the DDS and any of its associated components from the suspect list. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Edward R. Breneiser Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:14 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1! Hello all, Well I now have what's called a Kangaroo KX1! It hiked 2-miles up the mountain to Pulpit Rock on the AT. I setup my BW Vertical and my KX1. I then hit the tune buttons and NO POWER OUTPUT! I then put my KX1 under my shirt to warm it up. I waited about five minutes and hooked it up to my BW - full power output 4w! I had to do this every qso and make the qso short so I could keep my KX1 transmitting in the cold weather that was below freezing. So during the breaks, I was walking around with my KX1 tucked on my belly under my two shirts and two fleece jackets just like a Kangaroo thus the name Kangaroo KX1. I will troubleshoot my KX1 soon with freeze mist. I plan to first put my KX1 tuner in the CAL mode to bypass it and see if the problem is in the tuner. If not then hit the transmitter with Freeze-Mist to find the bad component. 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.4/563 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:59 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/565 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:39 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1!
Following up on Don's suggestions, put the KX1 in the 'fridge, and check it for key down output once a minute. If there's a sudden drop in power, it's likely a solder connection. If it's a gradual drop, it's probably not a solder connection. I'd keep the batteries outside the fridge to eliminate them as the cause of your no output problem. If you don't see the problem, put the batteries in the fridge and repeat the test. Let us know what you find. 73 - ed, k9ew. On 12/3/06, Don Wilhelm [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ed, Before going too far with the Freeze-Mist treatment, try reflowing the soldering. I would suspect a solder joint that makes and breaks as the PC board changes size slightly with the temperature change. Especially check the toroid lead soldering. The soldering is much higher on my suspect list than any component. Does it receive even though it does not transmit? If that answer is yes, you can rule out the DDS and any of its associated components from the suspect list. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Edward R. Breneiser Sent: Sunday, December 03, 2006 9:14 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] WA3WSJ: Kangaroo KX1! Hello all, Well I now have what's called a Kangaroo KX1! It hiked 2-miles up the mountain to Pulpit Rock on the AT. I setup my BW Vertical and my KX1. I then hit the tune buttons and NO POWER OUTPUT! I then put my KX1 under my shirt to warm it up. I waited about five minutes and hooked it up to my BW - full power output 4w! I had to do this every qso and make the qso short so I could keep my KX1 transmitting in the cold weather that was below freezing. So during the breaks, I was walking around with my KX1 tucked on my belly under my two shirts and two fleece jackets just like a Kangaroo thus the name Kangaroo KX1. I will troubleshoot my KX1 soon with freeze mist. I plan to first put my KX1 tuner in the CAL mode to bypass it and see if the problem is in the tuner. If not then hit the transmitter with Freeze-Mist to find the bad component. 72, Ed,WA3WSJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.4/563 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:59 AM -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/565 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:39 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 160m mojo
So the guys I hang out with have been setting up beverage antennas for 160m in preparation for several contests this winter. We have an inverted L for transmit and have plans for another transmit antenna later. The plan was for one of the guys to bring his TS-940 and Alpha amplifier. I mentioned my K2 and they said Sure, bring it along, it would be interesting to give it a try if we get a chance. So I show up late on Friday night to find the guys packing up radios. Seems there was some kind of problem with the transmit antenna which ruled out using the Alpha and would require a tuner. And what do you know, the tuner they had either wouldn't or couldn't tune 160m. I set up K2/100 #4941 with KAT100, my microHam microKeyer and laptop running WriteLog, all integrated with the K2 and in just a few minutes we're on the air. The KAT100 said the antenna was 3:1 to start with but quickly tuned it to 1:1. Apparently they hadn't really been able to tell the difference between receiving on the transmit antenna vs. receiving on the beverage with the 940. They questioned whether the beverage was working right. A flick of the RANT menu item on the K2 demonstrated just what we wanted to hear: the overall volume level was higher with the inverted L but the noise level was significantly lower with the beverage. First CQ we hear is a little weak and there's a pile-up for him. You'll never break through the pile-up with only 100W. (Remember 100W is QRP to these guys.) I toss our call into the pile and the response is immediate. About now was the first of what was to be several comments from the owner of the 940 throughout the night, who admitted, My radio sucks. You guys know the story. It's a joy to be able to turn on the 100 hz filter and just work your way up the band working everyone you can hear. There were 2 or 3 DX stations that we could hear but who weren't hearing us or any of the stations we could hear calling them. Not unexpected on this band where a good receive antenna is well worth the trouble. Anyway there aren't many CW ops in our group so operating time was limited but we made about 450 Qs and 70 sections. Oh and here's the kicker: I hadn't mentioned when I offered to bring the rig that I hadn't yet built the 160m board for it. I was able to add 160m and a separate receive antenna and have it working in just a couple hours. What a wonderful little radio! Craig NZ0R K2/100 #4941 K1 #1966 KX1 #1499 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] OT Wullenweber Array
-- Original message -- From: Fred Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Modern DF arrays can fix a position from a single location. Modern DF arrays measure the phase differences very accurately and can use the phase difference to obtain directivity and azimuth. How does one obtain a complete set of coordinates for the origin of a received signal using only one passive receiving site (i.e. no transponder for time delay measurement)? I understand bearing (azimuth) from the rx site ... how does one obtain distance? Throughout the late '60s and up until June of this year Stanford University and SRI International were heavely involved in research and development of OTH-B (Over The Horizon Backscatter) radar systems. Actually Stanford got out of the business in 1970 when it was forced to drop its classified research, but I digress. During this period I developed signal processing and control software for SRI's OTH radar test bed. This was a bistatic system with the receive site located near Los Banos, California and the transmit site near Lost Hills, a separation of about 85 km. The receive antenna consisted of 256 vertical monopoles separated by 10 meters for a total length of 2.5 km, using analog beamforming to produce 32 independent sub-arrays. The full array provided azimuthal resolution of 0.25 deg at 10 MHz. Which is the long way around of addressing the distance measuring question...no you cannot determine distance based on a single monostatic look. We developed a number of techniques for distance determination. The radar waveform was swept-frequency CW (Chirp).The waveform generators at the receive and transmit sites were synchronized with HP cesium clocks with the receive site's time delay offset to allow range gating of the received backscatter. By looking at the time delay of the backscatter, distance to the echo could be determined. But, wait, just knowing time delay doesn't solve the equation, you need to know the propagation path and the height of the ionosphere to determine the path length and with a little geometry the ground distance to the echo. A separate backscatter sounding and vertical incidence sounding transmitter was used to determine the ionospheric layer structure and hence ground range from a given slant range. We also deployed repeaters at known time delays in the radar coverage area to provide ground truth and verify the accuracy of our ionospheric path determination. So it was a sad day in June when the sites were bulldozed, having spent a great deal of my professional life at one site or the other. The threat that OTH was designed to meet disappeared. The Air Force built a system in Maine based on our design, also one in Idaho which never went operational. The Navy still has an operational system on the East coast which looks into the Caribbean but that's about it for US OTH radar. 73,Doug W6JD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Com port problem
On Sun, 3 Dec 2006, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote: i've been successful with used usb to serial edgeports very expensive new but very inexpensive on the baysite\ Some brand names might be of help. Thom www.baltimorehon.com/Home of the Baltimore Lexicon www.tlchost.net/hosting/ Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Com port problem
Thom, Edgeport is the brand name. I have a good 4 port unit. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- On Sun, 3 Dec 2006, Bill Steffey NY9H wrote: i've been successful with used usb to serial edgeports very expensive new but very inexpensive on the baysite\ Some brand names might be of help. Thom -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/565 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:39 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ECN 3 Dec 20m
I made it in thanks to N0SS, who unlike normal was whisper weak. Never heard anyone else. No signals on 20m CW. I checked the usual parameters -- X-Ray flux was low, SFI at 87m A=2, K=1 ... not sure what is happening. Line noise was the normal S2, and visual check on the tower revealed still more or less vertical with antenna at the top. SWR was normal at 1.2:1 Global Warming? Reminds me of the CW Sweepstakes a few years back on Sun AM when the entire world just disappeared for 45 mins or so due to a mega-flare. 73, Fred ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] 160M Dead on my K2
Hi Gang, I couldn't wait to attack the 160 test with my K2. I switched to top band at the appointed time and heard. nothing! So here's the deal. My K2 is QRP, SN543 with all modules less the DSP. The 160 did work when I last used it 3 years ago. The RX antenna likewise does nothing. I pulled the board to look for problems and it looks FB. I tried transmitting to a dummy load and the display reads LoP. Everything else in the radio functions to spec. The 80/160 BP filters are tuned up nicely for 80M. When I change bands from 80 - 160, I don't feel or hear any operation from relay K1 on the 160 module. Ideas?? 73, Mark K2QO/R and QRP ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 160m mojo
Hi Craig, Nice report! I've only used my TS940S once (PA QSO Party 2005) since I built my K2 nearly 2 years ago now. Thinking about building the 100W amp which is the only reason I'm still holding onto the TS940S (I think, can't think of another reason just now). QRP has generally been way too much fun to even think about running 100W, but sometime it will be handy, I suppose. I used my K2 QRP in the 160m contest. The band conditions weren't as good as they were last year I didn't think. I also only had time to spend about 4-1/2 hours and was quite distracted during most of that time as well. Nonetheless I was able to work 117 QSOs and 40 sections QRP. From eastern PA I only heard a handful of 6 and 7-land stations last night (didn't hear any the night before) and noted that several of the stations that were S5 or less weren't able to be worked by me with QRP. There were a few S9 signals that I was surprised I couldn't work, but could work most things I could hear. My antenna is a simple Carolina Windom 160 up about 65'. I wanted to get an inverted-L up as well as a K9AY Rx Loop so I could use the Rx antenna port but neither of those have happened yet so I'm still using the same antenna as I had last year. Looking forward to the Stew Perry at the end of this month! Mark, NK8Q Craig Rairdin wrote: So the guys I hang out with have been setting up beverage antennas for 160m in preparation for several contests this winter. We have an inverted L for transmit and have plans for another transmit antenna later. The plan was for one of the guys to bring his TS-940 and Alpha amplifier. I mentioned my K2 and they said Sure, bring it along, it would be interesting to give it a try if we get a chance. So I show up late on Friday night to find the guys packing up radios. Seems there was some kind of problem with the transmit antenna which ruled out using the Alpha and would require a tuner. And what do you know, the tuner they had either wouldn't or couldn't tune 160m. I set up K2/100 #4941 with KAT100, my microHam microKeyer and laptop running WriteLog, all integrated with the K2 and in just a few minutes we're on the air. The KAT100 said the antenna was 3:1 to start with but quickly tuned it to 1:1. Apparently they hadn't really been able to tell the difference between receiving on the transmit antenna vs. receiving on the beverage with the 940. They questioned whether the beverage was working right. A flick of the RANT menu item on the K2 demonstrated just what we wanted to hear: the overall volume level was higher with the inverted L but the noise level was significantly lower with the beverage. First CQ we hear is a little weak and there's a pile-up for him. You'll never break through the pile-up with only 100W. (Remember 100W is QRP to these guys.) I toss our call into the pile and the response is immediate. About now was the first of what was to be several comments from the owner of the 940 throughout the night, who admitted, My radio sucks. You guys know the story. It's a joy to be able to turn on the 100 hz filter and just work your way up the band working everyone you can hear. There were 2 or 3 DX stations that we could hear but who weren't hearing us or any of the stations we could hear calling them. Not unexpected on this band where a good receive antenna is well worth the trouble. Anyway there aren't many CW ops in our group so operating time was limited but we made about 450 Qs and 70 sections. Oh and here's the kicker: I hadn't mentioned when I offered to bring the rig that I hadn't yet built the 160m board for it. I was able to add 160m and a separate receive antenna and have it working in just a couple hours. What a wonderful little radio! Craig NZ0R K2/100 #4941 K1 #1966 KX1 #1499 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] PACTORIII via K2
Does anyone on the list have experience with using their K2 for Pactor III operations? Any comments? What was your setup? 73, Bill - WA5PB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] 160M Dead on my K2
Mark, Well, if relay K1 does not switch, you will not have any output on 160 meters - but you also said that it does not receive on the Rx antenna either - so relay K2 must not be working either. That combination would point to something wrong in the relay coil circuits. Check all the soldering on pins 3, 4, and 16 of J1 and check the soldering on the header as well (that will likely require removing the heat sink from the K2. Also check pin 1 of the header and J1 (that is the signal path for the RX antenna). Check the soldering on the K160RX board at the relay pins too. You are probably looking for an unsoldered connection, or one that was not adequately heated. These connections can often work initially but develop enough oxidation to give trouble after a year or so. 73, Don W3FPR -Original Message- I couldn't wait to attack the 160 test with my K2. I switched to top band at the appointed time and heard. nothing! So here's the deal. My K2 is QRP, SN543 with all modules less the DSP. The 160 did work when I last used it 3 years ago. The RX antenna likewise does nothing. I pulled the board to look for problems and it looks FB. I tried transmitting to a dummy load and the display reads LoP. Everything else in the radio functions to spec. The 80/160 BP filters are tuned up nicely for 80M. When I change bands from 80 - 160, I don't feel or hear any operation from relay K1 on the 160 module. Ideas?? 73, Mark K2QO/R and QRP -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.430 / Virus Database: 268.15.6/565 - Release Date: 12/2/2006 9:39 PM ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 - rotary encoder quirk birdies on 20m after KXB3080
Hi. I tried out 20m for the first time this weekend after having completed the KXB3080 module. It works FB, I'm having great fun on 80m... and the 20m worked great, exchanged 2 X 599 reports with a station running 5W in Georgia... but... I realized that one thing which I thought was my imagination the first couple of times I saw it is really a problem, and I also made the observation that after the mod I have a lot of internally generated spurious signals (birdies) on 20m which were not there beforehand. (1) Rotary Encoder Quirk If I set the tuning rate to XX.X kHz and then slowly rotate the tuning knob of the KX1, I notice that for the most part, the tuning does exactly what you would expect 05.7, 05.8, 05.9, 06.0, 06.1, Now and again though, it jumps back a couple of 10ths of a kHz. I captured this behavior in this movie: http://www.sunim.plus.com/encoder_quirk.avi Throughout the movie, I slowly rotate the tuning control positively in the clockwise direction. The digits increment correctly right up until 12.0. Then we see this happen: 12.0, 12.1, 12.2, 12.3, 12.1, 12.2, 12.3, 12.1, 12.2, 12.3, 12.5... So - twice the frequency jumped backwards by 0.2kHz even although the tuning control is being moved clockwise. This seems to happen at random, on all bands. I noted where the screw-hole in the side of the tuning knob was pointed to see if it always happened at the same point in the tuning knob cycle but it doesn't - it seems to be truly random. (2) 20m birdies I've always had a birdie at 14066.1kHz. It sounded stronger after the KXB3080 mod, which I put down to the 20m sensitivity having been increased by the mod (It's true that audio seems to be stronger on 20m since the mod). Now, however, there are numerous (easily 50or more) signals distributed throughout the 20m band. They are all quite weak but are certainly there. It seems to be related to the frequency of the DDS - on the X.XX tuning scale, incrementing by 0.01kHz changes the tone of the birdie often by quite a lot. Although I can live with these (they are quite weak) when I'm listening to QRPp or DX stations which are also weak it can be a little bit distracting. I've captured a sample movie where I tune through a small sample of the 20m band while connected to a 50 ohm resistor: http://www.sunim.plus.com/20m_birdies.avi In this movie I scan from 14067kHz to 14060kHz, and I pick out the strong birdie at 14066.1kHz (which was there before the mod) then the weaker birdies (which were not present before the mod) at: 14065.6, 14063.6, 14061.5, 14061.3, 14061.15, 14060.24, 14060.19, 14.059.92 --- Any suggestions on where to start with these problems? Thanks, Martin. VA3SIE. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
