RE: [Elecraft] Re: Transmitter alignment

2007-02-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jeff,

You may be chasing a 'ghost' - in other words, that 'short' to ground may be
present at DC but not at RF.
Remember that the relays latch, and the armature will be connected to pin 7
for the band that has last been selected.  Going further on that vein the
relays shown on the left of the LPF will also have continuity from pin 3 to
4 for the last selected band.
What all that means is that the DC resistance will be close to zero from R67
through the LPF coils and relay contacts and then through the output winding
of T4 (which has the #4 lead grounded).  So at DC, the resistance will be
close to zero through that path - at RF, the reactance comes into play and
will not be zero ohms impedance.  For DC resistance measurements, R67 and
R68 are effectively in parallel.

So, bottom line, look for your problem elsewhere.  I suggest that you build
the RF probe if you have not done so already and go through the steps
outlined in the Transmitter Signal Tracing section of Appendix A in the
manual.  That should identify the stage at fault.  Once we know which stage
is at fault we should be able to easily localize the failure to the
component level.

The most likely cause of failure is a soldering problem, so check the
soldering carefully (several times).  Unsoldered connections can be elusive,
but they are the major cause of failure.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> A little more info...
>
> Charles, N3EJS, was nice enough to point out to me that my
> strange resistor
> values of R67 and R68 sounded like they were in parallel, and had
> a hunch that
> pin 7 of the relays was  probably shorting to ground.
>
> Checking this, and Charles was right on the money (thanks, Charles!).
>
> Now, the question of why the relays pin 7 was directly connecting
> to ground?
>
> I reset the relays by pulling the control board, powered up, and then put
> things back to normal. On "normal" power up (with the control
> board back in
> place) things looked good, no short on pin 7 to ground.
>
> However, as soon as I engage "TUNE" again, the short to ground returns.
>
> So, it seems as if I have a problem in the relay logic. Essentially
> the antenna jack is shorting, so I have a dead short across the
> output, it
> seems.
>
> Any thoughts on how to get the relay logic figured out?
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Jeff
>
> On Thu, Feb 01, 2007 at 09:20:27PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> > Alright, a little bit of an update on my problem...
> >
> > Gary at Elecraft gave me a list of voltages to check upon TX.
> >
> > Unfortunately, my scope is old and I couldn't get it to play
> fair, so the only thing I could really measure were DC voltages
> with my VOM. I'll probably go ahead and start putting the RF
> probe together sine my scope seems tired.
> >
>
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[Elecraft] Re: Transmitter alignment

2007-02-01 Thread Jeff Kinzli
A little more info...

Charles, N3EJS, was nice enough to point out to me that my strange resistor
values of R67 and R68 sounded like they were in parallel, and had a hunch that
pin 7 of the relays was  probably shorting to ground.

Checking this, and Charles was right on the money (thanks, Charles!).

Now, the question of why the relays pin 7 was directly connecting to ground?

I reset the relays by pulling the control board, powered up, and then put 
things back to normal. On "normal" power up (with the control board back in 
place) things looked good, no short on pin 7 to ground. 

However, as soon as I engage "TUNE" again, the short to ground returns.

So, it seems as if I have a problem in the relay logic. Essentially 
the antenna jack is shorting, so I have a dead short across the output, it 
seems.

Any thoughts on how to get the relay logic figured out?

Thanks again,

Jeff

On Thu, Feb 01, 2007 at 09:20:27PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Alright, a little bit of an update on my problem...
> 
> Gary at Elecraft gave me a list of voltages to check upon TX.
> 
> Unfortunately, my scope is old and I couldn't get it to play fair, so the 
> only thing I could really measure were DC voltages with my VOM. I'll probably 
> go ahead and start putting the RF probe together sine my scope seems tired.
> 
> Anyhow,
> 
> I checked R50, it's right on, good, not open.
> I checked D7, it has 7.95VDC on it's anode and 7.32VDC on it's cathode.
> I checked Q6, and it has 1.0VDC on it's base
> I checked Q6, and it has 12.2V on it's collector (at TX)
> 
> R67 and R68 continue to bother me, they both read 195 ohms, even when 
> measuring
> directly across them. I don't see why that would be given the schematic,
> but they are the correct color code for the given resistors, and when I 
> measure
> I have nothing connected to the antenna jack.
> 
> I have a sneaking suspicion it's a problem with a toroid lead, but I have 
> checked and rechecked them all, measuring continuity across windings at the 
> solder pads.
> 
> Do any of you guys offer troubleshooting service, in person? :)
> 
> Thanks for any ideas,
> 
> Jeff
> 
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2007 at 11:58:28PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> > Oh, and I have checked, and C167 is indeed installed. :)
> > 
> > On Wed, Jan 31, 2007 at 11:45:54PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> > > So, I'm finally getting to the transmitter alignment section on K2 #5945.
> > > 
> > > With a dummy load, I set power on 40M to 2W, and go into tune mode. I can 
> > > never get more than about 0.4W on the K2 display, and my wattmeter barely 
> > > moves, which would jive with that also. Moving L1/L2 through their full 
> > > range has no effect, the power fluctuates between 0.2 and 0.4W 
> > > regardless. It's the same on all bands.
> > > 
> > > Current draw is about 0.75A in tune mode.
> > > 
> > > I had previously aligned the receiver, and the reciever was listening 
> > > nicely on 40M.
> > > 
> > > Going through the troubleshooting section, I can't find any problems with 
> > > the suggested troubleshooting points.
> > > 
> > > One thing that struck me as wierd, is that the two 1% resistors that 
> > > Troubleshooting refers to (1.5k and 226 ohm), I think R66/67 (?) both 
> > > read 195 ohms, but they are the correct color code and I confirmed that I 
> > > checked them before installing. It appears strange to me because the 
> > > other resistors read correctly while installed, but these do not. So, 
> > > perhaps this is my problem?
> > > 
> > > Any ideas?
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Jeff
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[Elecraft] Unstable power control on 40M SSB

2007-02-01 Thread William Shappley

Folks -

I just completed the KPA-100 amp for K2 #5540 and everything is great  
except for one problem.  My memory tells me that I have seen  
something on this before

on the reflector but I cannot remember the solution.

Anyway, I am seeing unstable power control on 40M SSB.  40M CW seems  
fine (although the power control "hunts" a little more than it does  
on the other bands).  The power output on my peak reading Bird
will exceed 150W on voice peaks - on the other bands, the peak is at  
or below the power control setting.  Input current hits about 20 amps  
(normally it is pulling about 15 amps, except
it pulls about 18 amps on 17 meters CW or SSB - but power control is  
stable there).  I tried SSB into the dummy load on 30M since it is  
the same LPF, but power control is FB there.


By backing the power control down below 60 watts, the peaks can be  
reduced, but it is still hitting 40% or more over the setting -  
again, ONLY on 40M SSB.


There are no high current or any other errors showing up.  My KPA-100  
came with the resistor mod, and it is installed.  I have already  
performed the R98 mod on
the base K2 which did help stabilize the power "wiggles" on 40M CW,  
but did nothing to tame SSB.  All of this is into a verified good  
dummy load.  I have seen the same

high peak power that the Bird is showing on my LP-100 meter also.

Has anyone seen this before?

Thanks,
Bill
K4DXU

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[Elecraft] AT PBMME QRP Backpack trip --COLD!

2007-02-01 Thread Edward R. Breneiser
Hello all,

I bought a new sleeping bag, bag liner and air mattress for this one!
John, NU3E, and myself, WA3WSJ, will hike in 5.5 miles on the AT to
Eagles Nest Shelter, PA late Saturday morning. We will then setup camp
at the shelter.

Look for us on the air Saturday late morning until Sunday morning. We
plan to spend the night there! Weather forecast is for snow Friday and
brutal temps in the single digits late Saturday evening into Sunday
morning. 

Look for WA3WSJ on 20m 30m and 40m around the qrp frequencies. I will
use my "pimped-out" KX1 with a Bead-Wire Antenna. 

We plan to have a campfire Saturday evening to help us stay warm. If you
work us, please wait after sending your call as we will have to take off
our gloves to return your call!  

We will truly be "out-in-the-woods" on this one! 


72,
Ed,WA3WSJ
aka Kangaroo Ed
PB # 2


72,
Ed,WA3WSJ



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[Elecraft] Re: Transmitter alignment

2007-02-01 Thread Jeff Kinzli
Alright, a little bit of an update on my problem...

Gary at Elecraft gave me a list of voltages to check upon TX.

Unfortunately, my scope is old and I couldn't get it to play fair, so the only 
thing I could really measure were DC voltages with my VOM. I'll probably go 
ahead and start putting the RF probe together sine my scope seems tired.

Anyhow,

I checked R50, it's right on, good, not open.
I checked D7, it has 7.95VDC on it's anode and 7.32VDC on it's cathode.
I checked Q6, and it has 1.0VDC on it's base
I checked Q6, and it has 12.2V on it's collector (at TX)

R67 and R68 continue to bother me, they both read 195 ohms, even when measuring
directly across them. I don't see why that would be given the schematic,
but they are the correct color code for the given resistors, and when I measure
I have nothing connected to the antenna jack.

I have a sneaking suspicion it's a problem with a toroid lead, but I have 
checked and rechecked them all, measuring continuity across windings at the 
solder pads.

Do any of you guys offer troubleshooting service, in person? :)

Thanks for any ideas,

Jeff

On Wed, Jan 31, 2007 at 11:58:28PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Oh, and I have checked, and C167 is indeed installed. :)
> 
> On Wed, Jan 31, 2007 at 11:45:54PM -0500, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> > So, I'm finally getting to the transmitter alignment section on K2 #5945.
> > 
> > With a dummy load, I set power on 40M to 2W, and go into tune mode. I can 
> > never get more than about 0.4W on the K2 display, and my wattmeter barely 
> > moves, which would jive with that also. Moving L1/L2 through their full 
> > range has no effect, the power fluctuates between 0.2 and 0.4W regardless. 
> > It's the same on all bands.
> > 
> > Current draw is about 0.75A in tune mode.
> > 
> > I had previously aligned the receiver, and the reciever was listening 
> > nicely on 40M.
> > 
> > Going through the troubleshooting section, I can't find any problems with 
> > the suggested troubleshooting points.
> > 
> > One thing that struck me as wierd, is that the two 1% resistors that 
> > Troubleshooting refers to (1.5k and 226 ohm), I think R66/67 (?) both read 
> > 195 ohms, but they are the correct color code and I confirmed that I 
> > checked them before installing. It appears strange to me because the other 
> > resistors read correctly while installed, but these do not. So, perhaps 
> > this is my problem?
> > 
> > Any ideas?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Jeff
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Re: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread David Wilburn

Staples and Office Depot both carry one for less than $50.

David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW


Dennis Vavra wrote:

I have learned that the "helping hands" I got from Radio Shack do not provide 
nearly
enough Magnification nor any illumination of the PCBs and components for kit
building. In building the K2, I have made numerous soldering errors due to the 
fact
that my vision is not as good as it used to be. Any information out there on 
where
a good MAG LAMP could be had. What brand name, company, etc.. Or web site 
address.
Preferably one under 100.00 dollars.  Thanks. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY 
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Re: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread Ian Stirling
On Thursday 01 February 2007 20:08, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> As Larry said, there are many sources on the 'net. If you don't know what
> they look like, here's a couple of URL's that have pictures
> 
> http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/section_19/section19_02.htm 
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/d5gwe

  The ultimate would be the optics my dentist uses.
They're about two inches long and look like mini telescopes
that she wears. I asked her how much they cost, and she replied,
"About a thousand dollars". I've got an appointment next Wednesday:
I'll ask for more details.
  Until I was forty four, I didn't need glasses. Now I use
off-the-shelf reading glasses: 2.5 diopters magnifies everything
to better than before I needed glasses.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962, LP-100 #278
--
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RE: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I agree with the optivisor. I use it daily. And it fits over eyeglasses so
you can use it with them. The binocular vision and freedom from having to
put a big glass in between you and the work is wonderful. 

I would be cautious of "off brands". Sometimes they're good. Often not. One
issue is the quality of the magnifying lenses. Many of the off-brands are
pretty bad - much like many "magnifying lamps" that look a bit like staring
through the bottom of a glass bottle! Also, the headband system makes a huge
difference in the comfort. The knob-type tensioner with the padded headband
is worth the extra cost. I've used mine both professionally and in at my
home workbench for over 20 years. 

Give them the same care you would in selecting daily-wear eyeglasses and you
won't go wrong.

As Larry said, there are many sources on the 'net. If you don't know what
they look like, here's a couple of URL's that have pictures

http://www.conservationresources.com/Main/section_19/section19_02.htm 

http://tinyurl.com/d5gwe

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
If you have binocular vision (both eyes work together and almost equal 
corrected vision) I think you'll find an Optivisor to be superior to the 
  Mag Lamps. It is a headband with lenses that can be lowered over your 
current eyeglasses. If you get about an 8" working distance,you can 
solder and see the smallest of solder "bridges". Its also fairly 
comfortable.
Just google optivisor, they have some off brand copies for about $20.


73
Larry
WA2DGD

> 
> 
> I have learned that the "helping hands" I got from Radio Shack do not
> provide nearly
> enough Magnification nor any illumination of the PCBs and components for 
> kit
> building. In building the K2, I have made numerous soldering errors due 
> to the fact
> that my vision is not as good as it used to be. Any information out 
> there on where
> a good MAG LAMP could be had. What brand name, company, etc.. Or web 
> site address.
> Preferably one under 100.00 dollars.  Thanks. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
> ___


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Re: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread Larry
If you have binocular vision (both eyes work together and almost equal 
corrected vision) I think you'll find an Optivisor to be superior to the 
 Mag Lamps. It is a headband with lenses that can be lowered over your 
current eyeglasses. If you get about an 8" working distance,you can 
solder and see the smallest of solder "bridges". Its also fairly 
comfortable.

Just google optivisor, they have some off brand copies for about $20.


73
Larry
WA2DGD






I have learned that the "helping hands" I got from Radio Shack do not 
provide nearly
enough Magnification nor any illumination of the PCBs and components for 
kit
building. In building the K2, I have made numerous soldering errors due 
to the fact
that my vision is not as good as it used to be. Any information out 
there on where
a good MAG LAMP could be had. What brand name, company, etc.. Or web 
site address.

Preferably one under 100.00 dollars.  Thanks. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
___
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Re: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread Jim Miller
Staples has a clampon fluorescent magnifier for about $25. My wife keeps 
stealing mine...

73

jim ab3cv 

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Re: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread Lowell
Cabela's has one that is used for fly tieing.  It clamps to any desk or work 
bench.  Two-arm rotating suspesion adjustment extends a full 45 inches.  It 
has 22 watt circle fluorescent tube and separate 5 inch diameter, 3 power 
magnifyinhg lens makes viewing any object easy.  Its their Catalog Number 
TW-31-9874 and sells for $59.99.


Theri web site is www.cabelas.com or telephone 1-800-237-.  If you call 
them ask for a specilest that can supply you with details.  This info from 
their catalog TW-101-B   73

  Lowell, W5FH
- Original Message - 
From: "Dennis Vavra" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Thursday, February 01, 2007 5:24 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] magnifying Lamp


I have learned that the "helping hands" I got from Radio Shack do not 
provide nearly

enough Magnification nor any illumination of the PCBs and components for kit
building. In building the K2, I have made numerous soldering errors due to 
the fact
that my vision is not as good as it used to be. Any information out there on 
where
a good MAG LAMP could be had. What brand name, company, etc.. Or web site 
address.

Preferably one under 100.00 dollars.  Thanks. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
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--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.432 / Virus Database: 268.17.19/663 - Release Date: 2/1/2007 
2:28 PM



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[Elecraft] magnifying Lamp

2007-02-01 Thread Dennis Vavra
I have learned that the "helping hands" I got from Radio Shack do not provide 
nearly
enough Magnification nor any illumination of the PCBs and components for kit
building. In building the K2, I have made numerous soldering errors due to the 
fact
that my vision is not as good as it used to be. Any information out there on 
where
a good MAG LAMP could be had. What brand name, company, etc.. Or web site 
address.
Preferably one under 100.00 dollars.  Thanks. Dennis Vavra, AD5LY 
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[Elecraft] N2CQ QRP Contest Calendar: Feb 2007

2007-02-01 Thread Ken Newman


~
N2CQ QRP CONTEST CALENDAR
February 2007 
~
80 METER FOXHUNT (QRP CW) 
EST: EACH Tuesday 9 PM to 10:29 PM

UTC: EACH Wenesday 0200z to 0329z
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
40 METER FOXHUNT (QRP CW) 
EST: EACH Thursday 9 PM to 10:29 PM

UTC: EACH Friday 0200z to 0329z
Info: http://www.qrpfoxhunt.org/
~
Vermont QSO Party (CW/Ph)
Feb 3, z to Feb 4, 2400z
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/w1bd/qso_party.htm
~
10-10 Int. Winter Phone QSO Party ... QRP Category
Feb 3, 0001z to Feb 4, 2359z
Rules: http://www.ten-ten.org/rules.html
~
Minnesota QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Feb 3, 1400z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.w0aa.org/
~
FYBO Winter QRP Field Day (CW/SSB) ... QRP Contest!
Feb 3, 1400z to 2400z
Rules: http://www.azscqrpions.org/ScQRPion_OPERATING_EVENTS.htm
Field Stations Planned:
http://www.kkn.net/archives/html/QRP-L/2007-01/msg00399.html
http://www.greeb.net:80/fybo2007
~
AGCW Straight Key QSO Party (CW 80M) ... QRP Category
Feb 3, 1600z to  1900z
Rules: http://www.agcw.org/agcw-con/2006/Englisch/htp_e.htm
~
Delaware QSO Party (All) ... QRP Category
Feb 3, 1700z to Feb 4, 0500z
Feb 4, 1300z to Feb 5, 0100z
Rules: http://www.fsarc.org
~
North American Sprint (SSB) ... QRP Category
Feb 4, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php 
~

QRP ARCI Fireside Sprint (SSB) ...QRP Contest!
Feb 4, 2000z to 2359z
Rules: http://www.qrparci.org/
~
Adventure Radio Spartan Sprint (CW) ... QRP Contest!
EST: Feb 5, 9 PM to 11 PM (First Monday each month)
UTC: Feb 6, 0200z to 0400z 
Rules: http://www.arsqrp.com/

~
CQ WW RTTY WPX Contest ... Low Power Category
Feb 10, z to Feb 11, 2400z
Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html
~
Northern New York Section QSO Party (All)
Feb 10, z to Feb 11, 2359z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/months/feb.html
~
New Hampshire QSO Party (Ph/CW/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 10, 0001z to Feb 12, 0001z
Rules: http://www.w1fz.org/W1FZ/nhqso_party.html
~
Dutch PACC Contest (SSB/CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 10, 1200z to Feb 11, 1200z
Rules: http://www.veron.nl/pacc/rules.html
~
Louisiana QSO Party (Ph/CW) 
Feb 10, 1500z to Feb 11, 0300z 
Rules: http://www.qsl.net/kd5wdy/LAQSO_/laqso_.html

~
FISTS Winter Sprint (CW of course) ...QRP Category
Feb 10, 1700z to 2100z
Rules: http://www.fists.org/sprints.html
~
British Columbia QSO Challenge (CW/Ph/Dig) ... QRP Category
Feb 10, 1600z to Feb 11, 0359z
Rules: http://www.deltaamateurradio.com/
~
North American Sprint (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 11, z to 0400z
Rules: http://www.ncjweb.com/sprintrules.php
~
NAQCC Straight Key/Bug Sprint (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
EST: Feb 13, 8:30 PM to 10:30 PM
UTC: Feb 14, 0130Z to 0330Z
Rules: http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/contests.html
~
ARRL International DX Contest (CW) ... QRP Category
Feb 17, z to Feb 18, 2400z
Rules: http://www.arrl.org/contests/calendar.html?year=2007
~
RUN FOR THE BACON (CW) *** QRP CONTEST ***
EST: Feb 18, 9 PM to 11 PM
UTC: Feb 19, 0200z 0400z
Rules: http://fpqrp.com
~
North Carolina Road Kill Round Up (CW) *** QRP Contest ***
EST: Feb 21, 9:30PM - 11:00PM
UTC: Feb 22, 02:30z - 04:00z
Rules: http://ncroadkillroundup.homestead.com/index.html
~
CQ WW 160-Meter DX Contest (SSB) ... QRP Category
Feb 24, z to Feb 25, 2359z
Rules: http://www.cq-amateur-radio.com/awards.html
~
REF (French) SSB Contest 
Feb 24, 0600z to Feb 25, 1800z

Rules: http://www.sk3bg.se/contest/refc.htm
~

Re: [Elecraft] DSP/KPA100 combination

2007-02-01 Thread charles
Hi David,

On Thursday 01 February 2007 20:45, you wrote:
> Any idea when they will have a solution in place that doesn't involve
> metal working?
You may be lucky and find that it's just the pins on the DSP module that need 
shortening.
As to the availability of a DSP unit that has the right length of pins, you 
had better ask Elecraft support that question.

73 from Charles, M0BIN, K2 Nr 5901
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP/KPA100 combination

2007-02-01 Thread Lyle Johnson
Any idea when they will have a solution in place that doesn't involve 
metal working?


All it requires is diagonal cutting pliers, the same as you use on 
resistor leads, etc. in kit construction.  It is not necessary to file, 
grind, lap, etc the pins.


The next time DSPx modules are built, they will have correct length pins.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] DSP/KPA100 combination

2007-02-01 Thread David Wilburn
Any idea when they will have a solution in place that doesn't involve 
metal working?


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW


charles wrote:

On Thursday 01 February 2007 14:21, Lyle Johnson wrote:

Hello Charles!


I would like to make contact with any builders who are currently putting
together the above combination, or any builders who have recently built
such a combination.

I'm anticipating that your request has to do with fitting the DSPx
module into the KDSP2, and then having the pins on the 20-pin conenctor
interfere with the heatsink on the KPA100.
Yes you are correct Lyle.  I found that the corner of the pressed metal shield 
needed trimming and the pins on the surface mount unit to the DSP unit needed  
to be shortened.



The present run of DSPx module have pins that are slightly too long, and
the 20-pin receptacle on the KDSP2 board has stops that prevent the pins
from "over engaging".  The net result is that the KDSP2 doesn't seat
completely on the KDSP2, and the tops of the pins are in contact with
the KPA100 heatsink.
The solution is to trim the pins on the DSPx module.  If you trim off
about 0.090" from the 20-pin male connector pins, it will mate and seat
as intended.  The dimension isn't a precise requirement; if you mark the
pins between 0.100" and  0.125" back from the tip and then trim you
should be fine..

I actually reduced the length of the pins by 3/32", about .094".
I did this by cutting the ends off with a small pair of wire cutters, then 
filing them all to the same length with a diamond lap, then removing the 
burrs and filing a slightly splayed end so that they easily pushed in right 
home. The right grade of diamond lap will only remove a little at a time so 
that the amount being removed can be controlled and a smooth finish is 
achieved.


This problem caused me a great deal of bother because the PA worked perfectly 
first time when it was sitting beside the K2 but when it was mated with the 
K2 it was impossible to see what the problem was.  All I knew was that I had 
completely lost audio.  I then realised that this was because the surface 
mount unit on the DSP was being grounded by the metal shield due to a clash.


As well as shortening the pins I also had to do quite a bit of filing to the 
shield to get it to fit properly. The PA is now easily fitted to and removed 
from the K2.


Anyway, after quite a struggle and lost time I now have a very happy K2/100 
which this morning enabled me to work HZ1AN in Jeddah :-)



I suggest you *not* use "flush cutting" pliers as these leave the pin
ends very blunt.  Normal diagonal cutting pliers will do the job just
fine.  You do *not* need to grind or file or sand them to have pyramid
tips.
Finally, you might want to use a felt-tip pen to mark the pins to be
cut. This helps to trim them to about the same length, although this is
not critical.
Sorry for the error on the DSPx pin lengths...


All's well that ends well !!
I just wanted to make other builders aware of this problem and the way in 
which it can easily be solved - when you know how.
Gary Surrency has told me that Elecraft intend issuing a "Builder's Alert" 
about this issue but I haven't seen it appear yet.


Thank you for your reply Lyle.
It's an absolutely super radio and with the KAT100-1 sitting underneath it's a 
very useful tool for a CW op. My thanks to Eric for the design and to Wayne 
and the rest of the Elecraft team for providing me with hours of satisfaying 
fun in building the kit and for many, many more hours of operating yet to 
come.


73 from Charles - M0BIN


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[Elecraft] QRS CODE WARRIORS CW NET

2007-02-01 Thread Jack Regan
CW OPS,

The time and freq. for the 2nd qrs cw net are:

Sunday, 7 PM PST (Monday, 0300 UTC)on 7.049 MHZ.

NOTE: The 7 PM PST(0300 UTC)will only be used until
Kevin shifts the ECN back to 7.

The freq. was shifted because of the interference from
SKCC ops.  Since they have been using that freq. for a
while I moved the CWN down to 7.049 MHz.

All the info about the CWARC CWN is now available on
my website, www.jackandginger.com. Click on my call
sign and follow the link. Besides info on traffic
nets, cw abbreviations, q-signs, and morse code
leaning software, there is a .wav audio sample of a
typical CWN preambel at 13 wpm character speed with a
9 wpm overall speed.

You may still email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and
request a package with all the info.

Thanks for the great response,

73 Jack AE6GC
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Re: [Elecraft] FSK on a K2?

2007-02-01 Thread Fred Jensen

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

So the way to do FSK on a K2 is to develop audio tones within the normal
voice bandpass of 300 to about 2.1 KHz whose separation is equal to the
shift you need in frequency. Apply those to the K2's mic input and it'll
produce a shifting RF output or FSK. Today, those tones normally come from a
PC or special controller of some sort. 


You want to make sure the source of the audio tones [e.g. soundcard] is 
producing two pure sine waves with no harmonics or other noise.  A 
non-sinusoid audio tone will have other audio frequencies in its 
spectrum, and each of those will produce an additional RF signal offset 
from your suppressed carrier by its audio frequency.  A common source of 
noise in the audio output of a soundcard comes from the switching power 
supplies that power laptops.


I ran my K2/100 at 50W driving my LK-5002C amp to about 500W in the ARRL 
RTTY Roundup, and it was a fantastic rig.  It takes a little while to 
get the filters set up with CAL FIL, but once done, the real power of 
the K2 RX really shows up.  I'll be back in the WPX RTTY coming up on 
9-11 Feb.


And be careful ... RTTY is continuous duty when transmitting. At 50W, 
the KPA100 heatsink got uncomfortably warm when I was in a good run and 
transmitting nearly full time.  I wouldn't advise running more than half 
rated power [7W for a K2, 50W for a K2/100] when running RTTY.


73,

Fred K6DGW
Auburn CA CM98lw
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP/KPA100 combination

2007-02-01 Thread charles
On Thursday 01 February 2007 17:25, Jeff Kinzli wrote:
> Yes, I did read it, and it was the first I had heard. Thanks for bringing
> it up.
>
> I did notice the pins on the SMD part of the DSP module were too long.
> I figured something was wrong but left them as-is. Before I place the
> KPA100 inline, I'll shorten the pins and hope everything fits. By the
> time I'm done with the KPA100 the builder note will probably be
> released :)
Since making my first posting I now realise that I should have removed the 
side panel in order to observe what is happening when the PA is mated with 
the K2.  At the same time it is possible to make sure that the 
interconnecting cables are properly in position and that the jointing of the 
wires onto the PCB are not being stressed and liable to cause breakage of the 
soldered joint or fracturing of the wire.   A cable tie restraint where 
possible will help in this respect. The one to watch out for is the miniature 
coax where the joint is easily stressed.

Charles - M0BIN
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Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 Band Choices

2007-02-01 Thread Mike Morrow
I wrote:

>Only on the four-band KFL1-4 board is there a strict limitation to the
>allowable band combinations to 40m/30m/20m/15m due to the cutoff
>frequencies of the elliptical low pass filters on the board.

I should have stated the actual allowable band combinations for the KFL1-4 as:

40m, 30m, and any two of 20m, 17m, or 15m.

For some reason, Elecraft doesn't claim the substitution of 17m for 20m as 
allowable, but it is.

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 Band Choices

2007-02-01 Thread JT Croteau

Don and Mike

Thanks for confirming my initial thoughts.

--
JT Croteau, W6FO/1 - Manchester, NH
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RE: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 Band Choices

2007-02-01 Thread Don Wilhelm
That information source is incorrect.

The 2 band boards can be built for any 2 bands.

The 4 band boards OTOH, share components between 2 adjacent bands, so only
40/30 meters and 20/(17 or 15) meters may be used on the 4 band board.  Yes,
either of the band pairs on the 4 band board could be changed to another
band, but then it would only be usable as a 3 band board because the LPF
sharing will not allow differnet band combinations (i.e. 80 and 40 meters
cannot share a single low pass filter).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Could someone help clear something up for me?
>
> Are there any band choices on the KFL1-2 that are not compatible with
> each other?  I can't find anything in the documentation that says
> otherwise.  On my last K1, I had 40 and 80 meters on the same board.
> It worked fine and I had no problems.  Now someone is telling me that
> this combination shouldn't have worked and that only 80 & 15 can be
> put on the same board.
>
> Could someone help clear this up for me?  I am contemplating another
> K1 but use 40 & 80 meters almost exclusively and want this combination
> in the rig.
>
> Thanks and 72
>
> --
>  JT Croteau, W6FO/1 - Manchester, NH
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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2:28 PM

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Re: [Elecraft] KFL1-2 Band Choices

2007-02-01 Thread Mike Morrow
>Are there any band choices on the KFL1-2 that are not compatible with
>each other?  I can't find anything in the documentation that says
>otherwise.  On my last K1, I had 40 and 80 meters on the same board.
>It worked fine and I had no problems.  Now someone is telling me that
>this combination shouldn't have worked and that only 80 & 15 can be
>put on the same board.

Whoever said that is *completely* incorrect and doesn't understand these 
circuits at all.

There are six *official* bands available from Elecraft for the two-band KFL1-2 
board:  80m, 40m, 30m, 20m, 18m, 15m, though 160m/12m/10m are certainly 
possible if you brew it yourself.  ANY combination of two is OK.

Only on the four-band KFL1-4 board is there a strict limitation to the 
allowable band combinations to 40m/30m/20m/15m due to the cutoff frequencies of 
the elliptical low pass filters on the board.  But one benefit to the four-band 
board is that these LPFs are much sharper than the simple filtering on the 
two-band board.

73,
Mike / KK5F


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[Elecraft] K2 BFO Test Problem Solved (again)

2007-02-01 Thread SABorns
Problem solved. I am feeling a little stupid at the moment. I  had the same 
issue with another K2 that I built some time ago but forgot the  solution. I 
fixed the problem by adding a 2pf cap from the  junction of X3, X4 and L33 to 
ground.  My brain must be going.
73, Steve K8IDN
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[Elecraft] K2 BFO Test Range Question

2007-02-01 Thread SABorns
In doing BFO Test (pg62) my BFO Low Freq. is 4912..87. The  manual says it 
should be less than 4912.7. Will this cause a problem? The BFO  range from high 
to low is 4.39kHz
73, Steve K8IDN
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[Elecraft] KFL1-2 Band Choices

2007-02-01 Thread JT Croteau

Could someone help clear something up for me?

Are there any band choices on the KFL1-2 that are not compatible with
each other?  I can't find anything in the documentation that says
otherwise.  On my last K1, I had 40 and 80 meters on the same board.
It worked fine and I had no problems.  Now someone is telling me that
this combination shouldn't have worked and that only 80 & 15 can be
put on the same board.

Could someone help clear this up for me?  I am contemplating another
K1 but use 40 & 80 meters almost exclusively and want this combination
in the rig.

Thanks and 72

--
JT Croteau, W6FO/1 - Manchester, NH
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Re: [Elecraft] DSP/KPA100 combination

2007-02-01 Thread charles
On Thursday 01 February 2007 14:21, Lyle Johnson wrote:
> Hello Charles!
>
> > I would like to make contact with any builders who are currently putting
> > together the above combination, or any builders who have recently built
> > such a combination.
>
> I'm anticipating that your request has to do with fitting the DSPx
> module into the KDSP2, and then having the pins on the 20-pin conenctor
> interfere with the heatsink on the KPA100.
Yes you are correct Lyle.  I found that the corner of the pressed metal shield 
needed trimming and the pins on the surface mount unit to the DSP unit needed  
to be shortened.

> The present run of DSPx module have pins that are slightly too long, and
> the 20-pin receptacle on the KDSP2 board has stops that prevent the pins
> from "over engaging".  The net result is that the KDSP2 doesn't seat
> completely on the KDSP2, and the tops of the pins are in contact with
> the KPA100 heatsink.
> The solution is to trim the pins on the DSPx module.  If you trim off
> about 0.090" from the 20-pin male connector pins, it will mate and seat
> as intended.  The dimension isn't a precise requirement; if you mark the
> pins between 0.100" and  0.125" back from the tip and then trim you
> should be fine..
I actually reduced the length of the pins by 3/32", about .094".
I did this by cutting the ends off with a small pair of wire cutters, then 
filing them all to the same length with a diamond lap, then removing the 
burrs and filing a slightly splayed end so that they easily pushed in right 
home. The right grade of diamond lap will only remove a little at a time so 
that the amount being removed can be controlled and a smooth finish is 
achieved.

This problem caused me a great deal of bother because the PA worked perfectly 
first time when it was sitting beside the K2 but when it was mated with the 
K2 it was impossible to see what the problem was.  All I knew was that I had 
completely lost audio.  I then realised that this was because the surface 
mount unit on the DSP was being grounded by the metal shield due to a clash.

As well as shortening the pins I also had to do quite a bit of filing to the 
shield to get it to fit properly. The PA is now easily fitted to and removed 
from the K2.

Anyway, after quite a struggle and lost time I now have a very happy K2/100 
which this morning enabled me to work HZ1AN in Jeddah :-)

> I suggest you *not* use "flush cutting" pliers as these leave the pin
> ends very blunt.  Normal diagonal cutting pliers will do the job just
> fine.  You do *not* need to grind or file or sand them to have pyramid
> tips.
> Finally, you might want to use a felt-tip pen to mark the pins to be
> cut. This helps to trim them to about the same length, although this is
> not critical.
> Sorry for the error on the DSPx pin lengths...

All's well that ends well !!
I just wanted to make other builders aware of this problem and the way in 
which it can easily be solved - when you know how.
Gary Surrency has told me that Elecraft intend issuing a "Builder's Alert" 
about this issue but I haven't seen it appear yet.

Thank you for your reply Lyle.
It's an absolutely super radio and with the KAT100-1 sitting underneath it's a 
very useful tool for a CW op. My thanks to Eric for the design and to Wayne 
and the rest of the Elecraft team for providing me with hours of satisfaying 
fun in building the kit and for many, many more hours of operating yet to 
come.

73 from Charles - M0BIN


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[Elecraft] DSP/KPA100 combination

2007-02-01 Thread charles
I would like to make contact with any builders who are currently putting 
together the above combination, or any builders who have recently built such 
a combination.

Thanks in advance,
Charles - M0BIN
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Re: [Elecraft] RTTY FL Settings

2007-02-01 Thread Bernard Gaffney, N8PVZ/QRP
Bill,

  Thanks for the feedback. I'll add it to my filter
setting database.  I've been meaning to get to setting
the filters, but it's been just one maddeningly,
mundane thing after another that keeps me from getting
to it. This weekend FOR SURE, no matter what (short of
Nuclear War).

 Just as an FYI, I had my K2 built for me, no way did
I feel competent enough to do it myself. The builder
did a GREAT job, but didn't do anything w/the RTTY
filter settings (RTTY wasn't even turned on), which
explains the RTTY settings.

  Thanks again.

72 de N8PVZ
  ---bernie



 

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