[Elecraft] KPA100, C2A, C6D

2007-02-13 Thread Jeff Kinzli

On the KPA100 kit, C2A and C6D are 1200PF 500V caps. The ones I got
were marked "122J" and are of the brown type (like 103, 104, etc.) but
bigger. C2a/C6d though are not quite as big as the other 500V caps
included in the kit, and they don't fit perfectly into the cutouts on
the board, and they certainly are smaller than the board outlines.

Is this normal?

Thanks!

-J
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RE: [Elecraft] Front Panel Board K2 06014 wheres RP3 10K 8 pin

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
There should be two 'RP3's in the KSB2 kit.  One is the RP2 (2.0k 6 pin)
that will be mounted on the KSB2 board - the other should be the 8 pin RP3
(10K) that will mount on the Front Panel board.
Look at the parts list carefully, it indicates first the components that go
onto the KSB2 board and further down it indicates the components that go
onto the Front Panel board.

Inventory your entire KSB2 kit contents before proceeding and if you have
any missing components, send a note to mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] and the
needed parts should be sent to you promptly.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Ok, confused here.  On page 28 of the Owners Manual it says to
> check off the
> items NOT installed.  If I have the SSB kit, which I do, it says
> to install them
> now.
>
> RP3 has some issues.. it says its a 10k resistor network and is
> supplied in the
> SSB kit.  The board shows it as an 8 pin inline part.  The SSB
> parts had all the
> parts BUT describes RP3 as a 2K 6 pin resistor network AND there is NO 10K
> inline pin resistor chip in the SSB bag to put in the front panel board.
>
> What goes in the RP3 slot on the Front panel board.  In the SSB manual it
> describes RP3 as a 10K 8 pin but on page 3 RP3 is a 2.0K 6 pin ???
>
> confused..
>
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[Elecraft] K2 smoke test

2007-02-13 Thread Dennis Vavra
Actually I mis-spoke. The power supply was from a desk-top
PC, not a laptop. I had thought it was my sister's laptop
PS when I used it. Should have worn my glasses before used it.
Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
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[Elecraft] Front Panel Board K2 06014 wheres RP3 10K 8 pin

2007-02-13 Thread glblock
Ok, confused here.  On page 28 of the Owners Manual it says to check off the
items NOT installed.  If I have the SSB kit, which I do, it says to install them
now.

RP3 has some issues.. it says its a 10k resistor network and is supplied in the
SSB kit.  The board shows it as an 8 pin inline part.  The SSB parts had all the
parts BUT describes RP3 as a 2K 6 pin resistor network AND there is NO 10K
inline pin resistor chip in the SSB bag to put in the front panel board.

What goes in the RP3 slot on the Front panel board.  In the SSB manual it
describes RP3 as a 10K 8 pin but on page 3 RP3 is a 2.0K 6 pin ???

confused..
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RE: [Elecraft] k2 smoke test

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dennis,

OH MY!  That IS bad news.  It is difficult to predict what has been damaged.
There is hope that the resettable fuse protected some things, and the
regulators on the control board provided some protection too, but just how
much remains to be seen.  There is a possibility that all the active devices
were stressed, but if the regulators failed open (as opposed to shorted),
then most everything would survive.  This may be an example of the old adage
that the transistor will always protect the fuse!  Fortunately you did not
have a lot of the RF board components installed at this point, so salvage
will not be terribly bad even if you have to replace all the active devices
that are installed - worst case is that you have a long and tedious
troubleshooting session ahead of you.

Best thing to do is to STOP EVERYTHING until you obtain a good stable 13.8
volt regulated power supply rated at 5 or 6 amps or more (if you plan the
KPA100, then get a 20 amp power supply) - no more 'make-do' power supplies.
If you have a gell cell battery, that can be safely used rather than a power
supply, but you will still have to have some sort of charging supply for
that gell-cell.  Once you have that proper power supply in hand, then (and
only then) can you proceed with intelligent troubleshooting.

In the meantime, study the schematic of the K2, in particular the path for
the inbound 12 volt line so when it comes to the actual troubleshooting you
can quickly follow along with suggestions on the schematic - this is not a
situation that is covered in the normal manual based troubleshooting
section, so don't bother to look for it.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Tom,
> I powered up the k2 with a laptop power supply (not a wallwart),
> I thought the voltage on unit indicated 12v DC. Unfortunatually
> The voltage was 120v DC. There was smoke for 1 second and I shut
> down K2. Out of curiosity I plugged wallwart into K2 to see if unit
> could power up. Voltage current display shows E00.1, 000.
> I know this bodes ill for #06008. Dennis Vavra  AD5LY
>
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[Elecraft] k2 smoke test

2007-02-13 Thread Dennis Vavra
Tom,
I powered up the k2 with a laptop power supply (not a wallwart),
I thought the voltage on unit indicated 12v DC. Unfortunatually
The voltage was 120v DC. There was smoke for 1 second and I shut 
down K2. Out of curiosity I plugged wallwart into K2 to see if unit 
could power up. Voltage current display shows E00.1, 000.
I know this bodes ill for #06008. Dennis Vavra  AD5LY 
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[Elecraft] Bargraph Current Test

2007-02-13 Thread Dennis Vavra
OK , Tom
I will heed your advise on not using any wallwarts.
Construction has stopped until I aquire a suitable
PS. I will look into the Knwd PS-12 as you
suggested.. Many thanks friend, and 
Happy Valentines Day!
Dennis Vavra,  AD5LY
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[Elecraft] Bargraph Current Test

2007-02-13 Thread Dennis Vavra
OK Don, 
Every other indication and test checks out. I am 
building this K2 at a very slow methodical pace. 
The thinner gauge solder (0.20in) and new mag lamp
have been a great help.I am moving on to the 
thermistor board now!! Many thanks for your
assistance.  Dennis Vavra,  AD5LY
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RE: [Elecraft] Bargraph Current Test

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Dennis,

That may be OK for a 500 ma. wall wart.  Unless it is one of the rare
regulated wall warts, the low current voltage will be quite high and when
loaded to half is capability (approximately .25 Amps), the voltage can sag
quite a bit.  Remember that there is a protective diode in series inside the
K2 which will drop about 0.1 to 0.2 volts.

If you can get a more stable power supply than a wall wart, please do so.
If not, the wall wart will likely serve you through the Alignment and Test
Part 2, but after that you will need a stable power supply capable of at
least 3 amps.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Hi Tom,
> I reheated some more solder joints, on the contrl bd, and
> reheated R115 on the RF bd as well.Am now using another "wall wart"
> rated at 12v DC and 500ma. The reading at the back of the K2 (DC
> barrell connector), showed 12.6v DC.
> The Bargraph Current Test Shows E12.6,  0.06 for step 4...and
> E11.8, 0.24 for step 6 of the test.It looks
> closer voltage wise, a difference of abt 0.8vDC. Current looks
> good tho. Any advise at this point?
> Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
>
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RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 stopped working - Wrong!

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Forget the check on the MAX1406 - that is not involved in the path you are
attempting to reconcile.  The MAX1406 only does the CMOS level to RS-232
conversion for the computer interface out of the KPA100.  You problem is in
one of the non-RS-232 signal lines.

If you want to check the paths the quickest way, try this:
First connect the cable between the KPA100 and the KIO2.  Do not connect the
KIO2 cable to the K2 control board (you are going to be doing continuity
checks through the entire path).  Remove the ribbon cable from the KPA100
board so you can easily get to the KPA100 points.

Make continuity checks on the full path for the following signals - you
should find less than 5 ohms on each signal path:

8R   --- KIO2 AUX board pin 9 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 9
12CTRL --KIO2 AUX board pin 8 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 8
VRFDET --KIO2 AUX board pin 10 - to KPA100 P1 pin 10
ALC  KIO2 AUX board pin 7 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 7
AUXBUS - KIO2 AUX board pin 2 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 2
Ground - KIO2 AUX board pin 6 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 6
RS-232 signal Ground - KIO2 AUX board pin 5 -- to KPA100 P1 pin 5.

If all those paths show conductivity from end to end, the connections should
work unless something is shorted to an adjacent pin.

When you make these checks, you are testing the cable, the KPA100
connections and the KIO2 connections all at once - if any of them fail to
show continuity, you will have to find out which part of the 3 contain the
problem connection.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Don -
>
> Checked all the inductors and all showed continuity.
>
> The KPA100 works great when plugged into the K2.
>
> Tomorrow I'll check the voltages on the KPA100's U4, MAX1406.
> But, if the K2
> works via the ribbon cable, I may be barking up the wrong tree.
>
> As always, many thanks for the help.
>
> 73 de K1ESE
> John
>
>
> Don Wilhelm wrote:
> > John,
> >
> > Don't be so quick to conclude it is the KPA100 - the lines used
> for KPA100
> > control are different than the lines used for computer control.
>  Only 3 of
> > the pins in that connector are used for the serial port
> function, the rest
> > are used for K2 functions.  It pains me to hear the entire connecter
> > referred to as a 'serial port' - look at the name on the
> connector, it is
> > AUX I/O, and that means just what it says - an I/O connector
> for Auxiliary
> > functions - the RXD and TXD signals are the only ones used for computer
> > interfacing, and those are not used for KPA100 control when the
> KPA100 is
> > mounted externally.
> >
> > If the KPA100 works with the ribbon cable plugged into the K2, then most
> > everything is OK in the KPA100, but check the tiny inductors in both the
> > KPA100 (next to the DB9 connector) and on the KIO2 - on the
> KIO2, there is
> > one inductor on the AUX board.  Any of those inductors open will cause
> > problems with the KIO2 to KPA100 (or KAT100) interface.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
>
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[Elecraft] Bargraph Current Test

2007-02-13 Thread Dennis Vavra
Hi Tom, 
I reheated some more solder joints, on the contrl bd, and reheated R115 on the 
RF bd as well.Am now using another "wall wart"
rated at 12v DC and 500ma. The reading at the back of the K2 (DC barrell 
connector), showed 12.6v DC.
The Bargraph Current Test Shows E12.6,  0.06 for step 4...and E11.8, 0.24 for 
step 6 of the test.It looks
closer voltage wise, a difference of abt 0.8vDC. Current looks good tho. Any 
advise at this point?
Dennis Vavra, AD5LY
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RE: [Elecraft] ts-850s and transverter (XV144)

2007-02-13 Thread pc5m, Carel
Samir,

I have been using TS850 for driving other TRXV than XV144, but should be the
same. I suggest you visiti
 http://tk5ep.free.fr, think you will find all answers... Certainly DO NOT
use your main antenna connector of the TS850 for any TRXV purpose: one
mistake and you will find 100W towards your TRXV...a certain kill ...:-)

Gl,

Carel, pc5m

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Samir Popaja
Sent: Tuesday, February 13, 2007 9:15 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ts-850s and transverter (XV144)

According to ts-850s manual, minimum power to set ts-850s is 20w.

Also, according to manual, one need to move coaxial cable from CN26 to CN25.
Now one can use IF OUT to drive transverter. So far so good.

Antenna contact on ts-850s uses for receiving, IF OUT uses for driving
transverter.

QUESTIONS:
-IF OUT -> How much power we have here? 1W, 1mW or...nothing in manual.
-PTT on transverter, what to use from ts-850s to PTT the transverter, how?

Samir, SM7VZX


--

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:14:55 -0800
From: "Jim Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ts-850s and transverter (XV144)
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:50:59 +0100, Samir Popaja wrote:

>Is any chance to connect (interface) ts-850s with transverter for
2m (Elecraft XV144) without special mods?

>Can someone write some easy "how to".

I did it with my XV220 several years ago, with no complications and 
it worked fine. I don't recall details of my hookup, but I think I 
simply reduced output power of the 850 to a very low level and drove 
the XV220 directly from the main output. I also added an outboard 
amp, and was running 100w. That was in Chicago, and I've since moved 
across the continent to California, and am not back on the air on 
VHF yet. 

The XV144 and XV220 are essentially the same unit, but with the RF 
design optimized for different bands. 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 stopped working - Wrong!

2007-02-13 Thread John Huffman

Don -

Checked all the inductors and all showed continuity.

The KPA100 works great when plugged into the K2.

Tomorrow I'll check the voltages on the KPA100's U4, MAX1406.  But, if the K2 
works via the ribbon cable, I may be barking up the wrong tree.


As always, many thanks for the help.

73 de K1ESE
John


Don Wilhelm wrote:

John,

Don't be so quick to conclude it is the KPA100 - the lines used for KPA100
control are different than the lines used for computer control.  Only 3 of
the pins in that connector are used for the serial port function, the rest
are used for K2 functions.  It pains me to hear the entire connecter
referred to as a 'serial port' - look at the name on the connector, it is
AUX I/O, and that means just what it says - an I/O connector for Auxiliary
functions - the RXD and TXD signals are the only ones used for computer
interfacing, and those are not used for KPA100 control when the KPA100 is
mounted externally.

If the KPA100 works with the ribbon cable plugged into the K2, then most
everything is OK in the KPA100, but check the tiny inductors in both the
KPA100 (next to the DB9 connector) and on the KIO2 - on the KIO2, there is
one inductor on the AUX board.  Any of those inductors open will cause
problems with the KIO2 to KPA100 (or KAT100) interface.

73,
Don W3FPR


-Original Message-

Oops, I found the computer end of the cable was not connected to
the computer  :-(

OK, then the KIO2 works fine.  So, the problem must be with the
KPA100 serial
port.  I'll start checking there.

Sorry for the bandwidth...

73 de K1ESE
John




Now that my KPA100 is working well, I'd like to return it to

the EC2 case separate from my K2.  However, the KPA100 does not
want to talk to the K2 through my KIO2.  The KIO2 had been
working at one time.

To be sure the problem was in the KIO2 and not the KPA100, I

tried to use the KIO2 to talk to my computer.  It didn't work
although it had worked fine in the past with both the KPA100 and
the computer.  I conclude that since the KIO2 won't talk to
either, the problem is in the KIO2.

I inspected the soldering and all looked fine.  I checked the

voltages in the manual and all seemed fine with these exceptions:

J1 pin 2 should be -8.0 measured -9.5
  same on U1 pin 5
J1 pin 4 should be 4.5 measured 5.9
  same on J2 pin 7
J1 pin 3 should be 0.1 measured 0.00
  same on U1 pin 2, U1 pin 4, U1 pin6

So, the voltages aren't wicked off and it used to work.  Any

ideas on where to start next?

73 de K1ESE
John

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re:[Elecraft] Builder Alert: Wiring the New Type of K2 External Speaker Jack

2007-02-13 Thread Tom Hammond

Chuck:

Try:

http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder's%20Alert%20New%20K2%20Speaker%20Jack%20Rev%20A.pdf

The link (for some odd reason) failed to be properly highlighted in 
the original posting from Brian Broggie.


73,

Tom   N0SS

At 12:44 PM 2/13/2007, you wrote:
Is anyone else having trouble downloading this latest Builder's 
alert?  I'm not getting it from the website, although I can download 
the Soldering Tutorial just below it.  I tried copying and pasting 
the .pdf address from the subject original message to no avail.


I'd really like to see this, as my K2 external speaker jack has never worked.

73,
Chuck  NI0C
K2 s/n 5853

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RE: [Elecraft] KIO2 stopped working - Wrong!

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
John,

Don't be so quick to conclude it is the KPA100 - the lines used for KPA100
control are different than the lines used for computer control.  Only 3 of
the pins in that connector are used for the serial port function, the rest
are used for K2 functions.  It pains me to hear the entire connecter
referred to as a 'serial port' - look at the name on the connector, it is
AUX I/O, and that means just what it says - an I/O connector for Auxiliary
functions - the RXD and TXD signals are the only ones used for computer
interfacing, and those are not used for KPA100 control when the KPA100 is
mounted externally.

If the KPA100 works with the ribbon cable plugged into the K2, then most
everything is OK in the KPA100, but check the tiny inductors in both the
KPA100 (next to the DB9 connector) and on the KIO2 - on the KIO2, there is
one inductor on the AUX board.  Any of those inductors open will cause
problems with the KIO2 to KPA100 (or KAT100) interface.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Oops, I found the computer end of the cable was not connected to
> the computer  :-(
>
> OK, then the KIO2 works fine.  So, the problem must be with the
> KPA100 serial
> port.  I'll start checking there.
>
> Sorry for the bandwidth...
>
> 73 de K1ESE
> John
>
>
>
> > Now that my KPA100 is working well, I'd like to return it to
> the EC2 case separate from my K2.  However, the KPA100 does not
> want to talk to the K2 through my KIO2.  The KIO2 had been
> working at one time.
> >
> > To be sure the problem was in the KIO2 and not the KPA100, I
> tried to use the KIO2 to talk to my computer.  It didn't work
> although it had worked fine in the past with both the KPA100 and
> the computer.  I conclude that since the KIO2 won't talk to
> either, the problem is in the KIO2.
> >
> > I inspected the soldering and all looked fine.  I checked the
> voltages in the manual and all seemed fine with these exceptions:
> > J1 pin 2 should be -8.0 measured -9.5
> >   same on U1 pin 5
> > J1 pin 4 should be 4.5 measured 5.9
> >   same on J2 pin 7
> > J1 pin 3 should be 0.1 measured 0.00
> >   same on U1 pin 2, U1 pin 4, U1 pin6
> >
> > So, the voltages aren't wicked off and it used to work.  Any
> ideas on where to start next?
> >
> > 73 de K1ESE
> > John
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Re: re:[Elecraft] Builder Alert: Wiring the New Type of K2 External Speaker Jack

2007-02-13 Thread Dave Mueller
I was able to read it this morning, but I think I beat the webmaster so I had 
to cut/paste the URL into my browser.  If your kit is like mine, all you need 
to do is swap the non-ground leads on the jack.  I'm actually glad this came 
out as an alert since my external speaker didn't work on the first try.  I 
thought I was going nuts since I stared at the drawing for 5 minutes before 
soldering the wires.  I simply swapped them and it worked, but didn't actually 
compare the real jack to the manual.

Dave AA3EE
K2 #5929

>From: Chuck Guenther <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Date: 2007/02/13 Tue PM 12:44:16 CST
>To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>Subject: re:[Elecraft] Builder Alert: Wiring the New Type of K2 External   
>Speaker Jack

>Is anyone else having trouble downloading this latest Builder's alert?  I'm 
>not getting it from the website, although I can download the Soldering 
>Tutorial just below it.  I tried copying and pasting the .pdf address from the 
>subject original message to no avail.
>
>I'd really like to see this, as my K2 external speaker jack has never worked.
>
>73,
>Chuck  NI0C
>K2 s/n 5853
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Builder Alert: Wiring the New Type of K2 External Speaker Jack

2007-02-13 Thread w6fvi

We just cleaned up the file name.  Now you should try:

http://www.elecraft.com/Apps/Builder_Alert_New_K2_Speaker_Jack_Rev_A.pdf

Brian, W6FVI
Elecraft Support

Chuck Guenther wrote:


Is anyone else having trouble downloading this latest Builder's alert?  I'm not 
getting it from the website, although I can download the Soldering Tutorial 
just below it.  I tried copying and pasting the .pdf address from the subject 
original message to no avail.

I'd really like to see this, as my K2 external speaker jack has never worked.

73,
Chuck  NI0C
K2 s/n 5853

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Re: [Elecraft] ts-850s and transverter (XV144)

2007-02-13 Thread Samir Popaja
According to ts-850s manual, minimum power to set ts-850s is 20w.

Also, according to manual, one need to move coaxial cable from CN26 to CN25. 
Now one can use IF OUT to drive transverter. So far so good.

Antenna contact on ts-850s uses for receiving, IF OUT uses for driving 
transverter.

QUESTIONS:
-IF OUT -> How much power we have here? 1W, 1mW or...nothing in manual.
-PTT on transverter, what to use from ts-850s to PTT the transverter, how?

Samir, SM7VZX


--

Message: 8
Date: Mon, 12 Feb 2007 08:14:55 -0800
From: "Jim Brown" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ts-850s and transverter (XV144)
To: "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

On Mon, 12 Feb 2007 16:50:59 +0100, Samir Popaja wrote:

>Is any chance to connect (interface) ts-850s with transverter for 
2m (Elecraft XV144) without special mods?

>Can someone write some easy "how to".

I did it with my XV220 several years ago, with no complications and 
it worked fine. I don't recall details of my hookup, but I think I 
simply reduced output power of the 850 to a very low level and drove 
the XV220 directly from the main output. I also added an outboard 
amp, and was running 100w. That was in Chicago, and I've since moved 
across the continent to California, and am not back on the air on 
VHF yet. 

The XV144 and XV220 are essentially the same unit, but with the RF 
design optimized for different bands. 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC
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Re: RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2

2007-02-13 Thread wd4lst
Don,
Will do, tonight.
Thanks for the prodding,
-Pete
> 
> From: "Don Wilhelm" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

> Cut about 1/8 inch off those long KDSP2 pins - do it now.  The only long
> pins are on the double row header side.
> 
> If you forget to do it and install the KPA100, the shield will contact the
> KDSP2 and cause damage.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> > -Original Message-
> > I did notice the header pins on the dspx are a little long on the
> > 2x10 header, as mentioned recently on the reflector.
> > I will remedy that next time I open the lid, as I am now starting
> > a KPA100 (courtesy of the gang at booth 60 again)
> > 73s,
> > Pete
> > wd4lst
> > K2 5813
> > K1 2194
> >
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.441 / Virus Database: 268.17.37/682 - Release Date: 2/12/2007
> 1:23 PM
> 
> 

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re:[Elecraft] Builder Alert: Wiring the New Type of K2 External Speaker Jack

2007-02-13 Thread Chuck Guenther
Is anyone else having trouble downloading this latest Builder's alert?  I'm not 
getting it from the website, although I can download the Soldering Tutorial 
just below it.  I tried copying and pasting the .pdf address from the subject 
original message to no avail.

I'd really like to see this, as my K2 external speaker jack has never worked.

73,
Chuck  NI0C
K2 s/n 5853
 
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Re: [Elecraft] k1 back light clear plastic covering?

2007-02-13 Thread Dave G4AON
I've just installed a backlight kit - there wasn't a clear plastic film 
on the backlight either...


The K1 now looks really good, well worth modifying. I used the 6 mA 
option and the light level is just right for me.


Beware the default shipping charge to the UK for small parts, such as 
this kit, can exceed the cost of the parts. The charge quoted by Lisa 
was $7.00 instead of the $22.00 on the web order page (use the order 
form and choose Int'l Air Parcel Post, add the quoted price in the 
comments box). It's best to obtain a quote for the shipping costs of 
small part orders...


73 Dave, G4AON
K1 #1154
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[Elecraft] KIO2 stopped working - Wrong!

2007-02-13 Thread John Huffman

Oops, I found the computer end of the cable was not connected to the computer  
:-(

OK, then the KIO2 works fine.  So, the problem must be with the KPA100 serial 
port.  I'll start checking there.


Sorry for the bandwidth...

73 de K1ESE
John




Now that my KPA100 is working well, I'd like to return it to the EC2 case 
separate from my K2.  However, the KPA100 does not want to talk to the K2 
through my KIO2.  The KIO2 had been working at one time.

To be sure the problem was in the KIO2 and not the KPA100, I tried to use the 
KIO2 to talk to my computer.  It didn't work although it had worked fine in the 
past with both the KPA100 and the computer.  I conclude that since the KIO2 
won't talk to either, the problem is in the KIO2.

I inspected the soldering and all looked fine.  I checked the voltages in the 
manual and all seemed fine with these exceptions:
J1 pin 2 should be -8.0 measured -9.5
  same on U1 pin 5
J1 pin 4 should be 4.5 measured 5.9
  same on J2 pin 7
J1 pin 3 should be 0.1 measured 0.00
  same on U1 pin 2, U1 pin 4, U1 pin6

So, the voltages aren't wicked off and it used to work.  Any ideas on where to 
start next?

73 de K1ESE
John

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RE: [Elecraft] KDSP2

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Pete,

Congratulations on the KDSP2 success.

Cut about 1/8 inch off those long KDSP2 pins - do it now.  The only long
pins are on the double row header side.

If you forget to do it and install the KPA100, the shield will contact the
KDSP2 and cause damage.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> I did notice the header pins on the dspx are a little long on the
> 2x10 header, as mentioned recently on the reflector.
> I will remedy that next time I open the lid, as I am now starting
> a KPA100 (courtesy of the gang at booth 60 again)
> 73s,
> Pete
> wd4lst
> K2 5813
> K1 2194
>
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[Elecraft] KIO2 stopped working

2007-02-13 Thread John Huffman
Now that my KPA100 is working well, I'd like to return it to the EC2 case 
separate from my K2.  However, the KPA100 does not want to talk to the K2 
through my KIO2.  The KIO2 had been working at one time.


To be sure the problem was in the KIO2 and not the KPA100, I tried to use the 
KIO2 to talk to my computer.  It didn't work although it had worked fine in the 
past with both the KPA100 and the computer.  I conclude that since the KIO2 
won't talk to either, the problem is in the KIO2.


I inspected the soldering and all looked fine.  I checked the voltages in the 
manual and all seemed fine with these exceptions:

J1 pin 2 should be -8.0 measured -9.5
  same on U1 pin 5
J1 pin 4 should be 4.5 measured 5.9
  same on J2 pin 7
J1 pin 3 should be 0.1 measured 0.00
  same on U1 pin 2, U1 pin 4, U1 pin6

So, the voltages aren't wicked off and it used to work.  Any ideas on where to 
start next?


73 de K1ESE
John
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[Elecraft] KX1 ATU low power indication

2007-02-13 Thread Frank R. Oppedijk
Hi,

After having been off the air for about a year (moving house; other 
interests) I have recently fired up my KX1 again. When tuning up a 
random length of wire, I noticed that the output power indicated by the 
KX1 ATU was only 0.4 to 0.5 Watts (while SWR was good: 1:1.0 to 1:1.1). 
I attached a 50 ohm dummy load and hooked up my oscilloscope and saw a 
nice 24V peak-to-peak voltage on key down. That's 1.4 Watts and IIRC not 
bad for a battery-powered KX1 (battery voltage indicated by the KX1: 
8.5V on receive, 8.4V on transmit).

Why then the low power indication by the ATU?

I have already taken the unit apart and have resoldered all solder 
joints on the ATU PCB, but to no avail. Does anyone have any ideas?

Thanks in advance,

73 de PA4N

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[Elecraft] KDSP2

2007-02-13 Thread wd4lst
Hi All,
Just finished and installed the dsp module I picked up at the Orlando ham fest. 
Wow - this is a great addition. I was concerned about its usefulness, as I 
operate 98.25%cw. My only other experience with audio dsp was with the dsp 
module in my Icom 718, which I found pretty much useless.(again, for cw)
Much experimenting awaits to optimize it for my tastes. Right off the bat, it 
seems like I could preset some center frequencies of the AF filters above and 
below the ST offset to create an illusion of passband tuning steps. 
Its a good thing the default tables are in the manual!
I did notice the header pins on the dspx are a little long on the 2x10 header, 
as mentioned recently on the reflector.
I will remedy that next time I open the lid, as I am now starting a KPA100 
(courtesy of the gang at booth 60 again)
73s,
Pete
wd4lst
K2 5813
K1 2194
 


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[Elecraft] ti adapter cabel

2007-02-13 Thread charles
in the paper work for my t1 adapter cable it says that there was a 
problem with some off that older ft817s .Does any one know off and 
problems with the ft817nd .

thanks Charlie
m3xxc

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Re: [Elecraft] 5W Mod?

2007-02-13 Thread Jim Miller
Hi Don

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll leave it as is for now.

73

jim ab3cv
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Re: [Elecraft] 5W Mod?

2007-02-13 Thread Randy Rathbun NV0U
Hrm... I don't see it in the current manual... but it is online in  
REV C of the K2 manual. Section 9, page 100.


To save you time though, just remove one turn of the 3-4 winding on  
T4. I did this to #1981 and saw an immediate improvement - went from  
my K2 battery going dead with 20 minutes to go in the ARS Sprint to  
being able to go 2.5 hours.


Amazing what just one turn of wire will do!

On Feb 13, 2007, at 8:37 AM, Jim Miller wrote:

I saw a note on the K2 schematic about improving efficiency at 5W  
levels and

it suggesting go to a "modifications section."

I can't find any such section in my Manual or the one online.

Where can I find this?

73

jim ab3cv

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Randy Rathbun NV0U
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K2 #1981 KX1#1318
QRPARCI #10776, ARS #895, FPQRP #1292, KCQRP #1


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RE: [Elecraft] 5W Mod?

2007-02-13 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

You have sharp eyes!

That mod is simply a change in the number of turns on T4 as indicated on the
schematic.

BUT CONSIDER CAREFULLY:
This change will improve the efficiency at the 5 watt level and below, but
the efficiency will be decreased for power levels above 5 watts.  In
addition, a K2 having this mod should not be used in SSB or any of the data
modes - in other words it should only be applied to a 'CW-only QRP-at-5
watts or below' K2.

If you are going to operate on battery power at less than 5 watts with a CW
only capable K2, then you may want to make the change - otherwise, don't
consider it.

Since most folks want to add the KSB2 option and operate at higher than 5
watts, and possibly add the KPA100, the information has been dropped from
the manual - it remains only on the schematic.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> I saw a note on the K2 schematic about improving efficiency at 5W
> levels and
> it suggesting go to a "modifications section."
>
> I can't find any such section in my Manual or the one online.
>
> Where can I find this?
>
> 73
>
> jim ab3cv
>
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No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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1:23 PM

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[Elecraft] 5W Mod?

2007-02-13 Thread Jim Miller
I saw a note on the K2 schematic about improving efficiency at 5W levels and 
it suggesting go to a "modifications section."

I can't find any such section in my Manual or the one online.

Where can I find this?

73

jim ab3cv

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[Elecraft] KTB1

2007-02-13 Thread [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Scott,
We talked yesterday about a problem I have with subject kit.
When I did the smoke test(before installing it in the K1)I did get 12 
volts on the Digital VOM.  I then tried to remove the batteries and 
found one batt to be too hot to handle.  Out of curiosity I remeasured 
the voltage and got 11 volts.  When the battery in question cooled 
down I removed it and noted it's casing was separated near the bottom 
of the batt.
My first thought was that I had installed the diode improperly, thus 
my call to you.
There is no rush to get this done.  If you like I could remove the 
switch, diode and wiring harness and send all to you to examine.
72/73,
John

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RE: [Elecraft] New K2

2007-02-13 Thread Darwin, Keith
Yea, we know all that, but what's the SN?

LOL!!

Congrats on the new kit.  They are daunting at first but remember
they're built one part at a time.  If you can solder one resistor on the
board you can build the whole kit.  And you'll have fun doing it.

For me the day it arrived was an "oh-no-what-have-I-gotten-myself-into"
day.  Now that the rig is built and running, I experience a
"wow-Wow-WOW" every time I turn it on and work a station.

73!

- Keith N1AS -
- K2 5411.ssb.100 - 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Monday, February 12, 2007 9:12 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New K2

Just got my K2 , SSB, battery, DSP .. wow wow WOW

counting parts now..
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