[Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Hello All, Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and instructions to something that reminds me of putting toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? Not sure a cave man can do it. Jim Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545469 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly. I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length. There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ... certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the only cave-man in the forum. Mark AD5SS K/2 5340 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Being ESD Safe,
Ron, Don - I learned a good deal more clarification today, about ESD Safe - and one's potential house wiring situation. Thanks. Looks like one has to verify, with available testers, and electricians if need be, that their facility and shack and home, are wired correctly and that the SINGLE GROUND, provided at the mains entrance to the facility, is correct and operational as it should be by NEC code. And it is the ONLY ground connection, relied on. And secondly, which now makes much sense, that no secondary ground rods are to be used! - for one's electrical service in the home or facility. Multiple grounds, can create shock hazards. And as Don pointed out - a separate ground rod, if used at all, may be useful for one's RF antenna system, and that is all. But for ESD - the single home and facility ground connection - is the ONLY one to rely on for ESD safety. Whether that is established, and working is the chore at hand. The IEEE Hospitals multiple-grounds problem, was a case of new and old hospital facilities, where they found multiple ground levels existing in different places in the overall hospital. This resulted in patients being exposed to differing ground-levels, all impacting on the patient's monitoring equipments. IEEE reported patients may have died from this situation - and indicated possibly no one (MD's staff) realized this had happened. In our home, I hired an electrical contractor to verify the condition of my electrical plugs, and breaker box setup. He found several problems - and fixed them and brought them back into compliance with current NEC code. They even pulled the meter - and lubricated the mains HD cabling connections coming into the breaker box. (pulling meter, requires an electrician, and action by power company, as meter safety tag has to be broken) The work certification by a licensed electrician, is especially important when electrical work is done in a facility - for both personal safety, and to ensure continued insurance coverage on a home or facility. It isn't a common sense, or seat of the pants do-it-yourself operation. There is a method in the strictness of the NEC. Thanks, Fred, N3CSY Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2: sending PSK31
Following up on my earlier question, I can report that the minimal PSK31 interface described in the Elecraft Application Notes actually works. For receive, I got a stereo cable with plugs on each end, running from the K2 speaker jack to the computer line in, and for sending a stereo cable from the computer earphone output goes to an 8-pin mic plug with two resistors in it, 10K and 1K, as a voltage splitter. Transmit is keyed by vox. No isolation tranformers, no USB mic converter. Computer is a MacBook, software is Cocoamodem, and they work just dandy, though I'd expect any other computer-software combination to work, too. The hardest part of it all was locating an 8-pin mic plug for sale in the US -- Cheapham.com came through. Peter N8MHD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Oh, yes, I remember. That blasted bail! We can buy pre-wound toroids - someone needs to sell a pre-mounted bail! I think I put my bail in a vise and tried to squeeze it down a bit. I also used some of the longer screws to get things started then swapped them out once it was together. - Keith N1AS - - K2 5411.ssb.100 - -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Mark Bayern IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly. I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length. There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ... certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the only cave-man in the forum. Mark AD5SS K/2 5340 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2: sending PSK31
The 8-pin plugs are available at your local Radio Shack (#274-001A). 73, ed - k9ew The hardest part of it all was locating an 8-pin mic plug for sale in the US -- Cheapham.com came through. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Jim: The way I've successfully done it, and with NO(!) effort, is to install the feet/bail using much longer (say 1) screws... TIGHTEN things down and then, one at a time, replace the long screws with the proper ones. Using the longer screws makes it very easy to get everything in place BEFORE you have to torque things down. Of course, you'll have to supply your own (4) long screws, but it's certainly worth the effort. 73, Tom Hammond N0SS At 10:25 PM 5/24/2007, you wrote: Hello All, Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and instructions to something that reminds me of putting toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? Not sure a cave man can do it. Jim Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545469 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 ATU
There is a RF cable from the ATU to the mainboard. The auxbux is detecting the ATU so that's connected, but the RF most likely is not. The RF cable plugs into the main board at RF-P6. Do not connect it to RF-P3, the battery connector! Dan / WG4S / K2 #2456 snipneither Ant jacks 1 or 2 seem to function, The regular BNC that is not connected to the ATU works fine. /snip ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Jim, Install the first foot and tighten it, and then either: 1) Install the second foot using 'builder provided' long screws - after things are lined up and tightened with the long screws, remove the long ones one at a time and replace them with the proper screws. 2) Use a clamp to compress the bail - compress only enough to permit the screws to be installed, the bail must remain 'springy' or it will be loose and rattle. I use both methods - the clamp head takes a bit of 'figuring' so you can tighten the screws with the clamp attached, but you can combine both methods and make things easier. 73, Don W3FPR Jim Murray wrote: Hello All, Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and instructions to something that reminds me of putting toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? Not sure a cave man can do it. Jim ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
VISE - that is the trick. Just force some (SOME) of the spring width out of the metal item. It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to make it wider again in a Vise. Fred, N3CSY Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] SoftRock Lite for K3 IF application
Good Morning All, A number of hams have ordered a SoftRock Lite kit for the K3 IF application. The SoftRock Lite for this use includes a 32.768 MHz crystal to give a center frequency of about 8.191 MHz. This would require that the soundcard used for the application sample at 96 kHz to span the K3 IF in a good way. The resulting IF frequency coverage would be from about 8.143 MHz to 8.239 MHz. There may be some design issues with the kit I am providing relating to the signal and Z level at the IF output of the K3. This morning I built an example of the SoftRock Lite for the K3 IF use and as I type this I have it playing on this PC using the Rocky 3.2 software. This SoftRock example needs a better test than I can do with my limited test equipment. Is there someone on the list that already has a pre-production K3 and would be interested in evaluating the SoftRock for the K3 use. If so, I would be happy to send them this unit at no cost if they would give it a try, help work through any interface issues, and report their findings, (good or bad), to the list. Please contact me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested. Thanks and 73, Tony KB9YIG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Dead K2
Kristina, You will just have to continue measuring things until you discover the root cause. Did you measure the resistance at the power plug with the power switch ON? Try the checks below (in order until you find the source). Measure the resistance to ground from the cathode of D12. You may find it quite low (indicating a short). Remove the control board and check it again - if the resistance increases, look for the problem on the control board. If not on the control board, remove the heat sink and then recheck - if things are OK with the heat sink removed, check the thermal pads. If you still have not found it, the 'hunting' gets more difficult. Use the schematic to follow the path of the 12V voltage line - it starts at the lower right corner of RF Board sheet 1, and goes to the regulators on the control board, and various places on the RF Board (mostly on sheet 4). Check those paths thoroughly, even if it means removing some components to see which side of the component the short is located. Remember that the most likely cause is a solder bridge (connecting 2 points that should not connect together) so a VERY careful visual inspection may reveal the problem source. Work in an orderly manner - a short on a power line is difficult to find because the PC traces seem to go everywhere and it is difficult to isolate them - expect some frustration in the process. 73, Don W3FPR Kristina Wright wrote: OK, here's what I've done so far: checked the resistance from the power plug to ground, the meter read infinite resistance. Also checked the voltage at the same and got 12 volts. Then I measured the voltage at the cathode end of D10 and got 12 volts with the power switch on and off, but at D12 I got nothing with the power off and 0.7 volts with it on. Obviously the fuse is being tripped, but I still don't see any shorts (yes I inspected the whole board carefully). Thanks for the help so far, any more ideas? 73, Kristina, KE7LUC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Fred, I believe you are advocating bending a permanent reduction in the bail width with the vise (if not, I have misunderstood you). I do NOT recommend doing that since it results in a loose fitting bail which will be 'floppy'. Using a vise or a clamp to squeeze the bail temporarily while installing the screws is OK, but permanently distorting the bail is not OK IMHO. 73, Don W3FPR Fred (FL) wrote: VISE - that is the trick. Just force some (SOME) of the spring width out of the metal item. It works fine, if you just squeeze it down a small amount - do it in stages, as it would be hard to make it wider again in a Vise. Fred, N3CSY Get the Yahoo! toolbar and be alerted to new email wherever you're surfing. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/mail/index.php ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?
I started tracing 13.8 V from the power source Input 13.8 V Diode D10 Cathode 13.8 V Anode 0 to ground as per specifications Diode D9 Anode 0 V Cathode 0 V So, it seems power is not getting to the D9 Diode From the schematic on page 64, it looks as those are the only components on the trace from power injection to the KPA-100 to the Aux 12V at J4 Here is where my lack of knowledge shows up - 1. Since voltage is not present on either side of the diode, should I pull the heat sink and check the trace on the board? 2. Or - Does a bad (not even sure what that means) diode prevent voltage from showing up? 3. Or - What Allan Bacon W6GBG -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, May 24, 2007 9:27 PM To: Allan Bacon Cc: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead? Allan, Was that J5, the 3 pin connector point (no header is normally installed there) on the RF Board near the front center (near the control board)? If you did everything correctly, it should have no effect on the K2 power-up condition. If you wired to some other place than the 3 pin J5, remove what you added and try to discover what the error is. It may have been something that inadvertently happened, and not at all associated with your additions - in that case, voltage measurements are in order. You may have had a pin pushed back on the AUX DC connector from the KPA100, and it is no longer making contact with P3 on the RF Board - insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly if you find that to be the problem. Is the KPA100 ribbon cable properly attached to the control board? These are but a few starter questions. 73, Don W3FPR Allan Bacon wrote: K2 4670 with 100W and all options was working fine. Per the recommendation of Microham, I added a speaker jack from J5 to a stereo plug on the back of the case and now the unit will not power up on the KPA-100 When I plug in power to the low power jack, the unit is OK, but will not go to high power. Any ideas? Thanks, 73, Allan Bacon W6GBG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] NOT Elecraft- AD9912 SFDR Measurements
Hi all, following my message inserted on may 24th : Better to use AD9912 and not AD9910, I have received several enquiries about any test done on the AD9912. Yes, my good friend Giuliano, I0CG (of AD9951 DDS fame), is performing measurements on the AD9912 and also comparisons with his already well known and appreciated DDS using AD9951 and a 500MHz clock. I have uploaded a document in: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/emrfd/files/ http://www.hamsdr.com/dnld.aspx http://groups.yahoo.com/group/softrock40/files/ with title: AD9912 SFDR tests.pdf The document reports some Spectrum analyzer measurements on the AD9912 and also one comparison with AD9951. When I0CG will release further reports I will divulgate them. 73 Gian I7SWX Fussy? Opinionated? Impossible to please? Perfect. Join Yahoo!'s user panel and lay it on us. http://surveylink.yahoo.com/gmrs/yahoo_panel_invite.asp?a=7 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 ATU
Tim, Even when the KAT2 is attached, you can still hear signals through the base K2 antenna jack - that is NOT a problem. If you cannot receive through the ANT1 or ANT2 jacks on the KAT2, the problem must be with the KAT2. Since I presume it worked before, look for the easy things first, like a break in the input coax or improper seating of the crimp pins in the connector. If you set the menu to ATU CALP, you should be able to make a continuity check from the input coax center conductor to the center conductor of ANT1 or ANT2. 73, Don W3FPR Ellam, Timothy St. J. wrote: I have a problem which I am sure is my own error, but for the life of me I cannot seem to find the fix. I just switched the K2/100 module with regular K2 cover which has the K2ATU. The menu shows ATU as auto, but neither Ant jacks 1 or 2 seem to function, The regular BNC that is not connected to the ATU works fine. I thought once the ATU was installed that jack was disabled? Am I missing a menu change or do I have a more substantive problem? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] RE: K2 Bail
Fred, I believe you are advocating bending a permanent reduction in the bail width with the vise (if not, I have misunderstood you). I do NOT recommend doing that since it results in a loose fitting bail which will be 'floppy'. Using a vise or a clamp to squeeze the bail temporarily while installing the screws is OK, but permanently distorting the bail is not OK IMHO. 73, Don W3FPR FWIW, I first mounted the bail on my K2 without bending. The spring force was so great it warped the cover piece. I took it out and 'gently' bent it inward a bit. Now it still has good spring force -- is not floppy -- but does not warp the bottom cover piece. This makes me think there is a bit of variability in the bails. Rob KC6ROC K2 #5924 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it tourniquet style to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn together enough to allow it to be attached. Or -- you could dispense with the bail altogether (as I did) and cobble together some taller 'feet' for the front of the radio so that the front sits up about an inch or a little more above the surface upon which it is resting. May not be too good for portable use, but for home use on a desktop it works very well. 73, Dale WA8SRA K2 #3039 Mark Bayern wrote: IMO, the bail is the most difficult piece of the assembly. I used longer screws while assembling the thing and then changed them out, carefully!, one at a time to screws of the correct length. There were some great discussions on the forum a few years ago about the tilt bail. Lots of different ideas about how to get the blasted thing installed. A check of the archives might give you some ideas ... certainly it will give you a few laughs, and you won't feel like the only cave-man in the forum. Mark AD5SS K/2 5340 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead?
Alan, You are reading the schematic correctly - yes there should be a connection between the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 (check to be certain they are connected with an ohmmeter first). If you find the path open, you could install a TEMPORARY jumper between D10 cathode and D9 anode on top of the board to see if everything comes back to life. If that restores full function, then remove the board to find the damaged PC board trace or (more likely) the bad solder connection. Nothing in your measurements indicate a bad diode to me. A diode conducts positive voltage from the anode to the cathode (hint: follow the arrowhead on the diode symbol), but blocks a positive voltage in the opposite direction. 73, Don W3FPR Allan Bacon wrote: I started tracing 13.8 V from the power source Input 13.8 V Diode D10 Cathode 13.8 V Anode 0 to ground as per specifications Diode D9 Anode 0 V Cathode 0 V So, it seems power is not getting to the D9 Diode From the schematic on page 64, it looks as those are the only components on the trace from power injection to the KPA-100 to the Aux 12V at J4 Here is where my lack of knowledge shows up - 1. Since voltage is not present on either side of the diode, should I pull the heat sink and check the trace on the board? 2. Or - Does a bad (not even sure what that means) diode prevent voltage from showing up? 3. Or - What ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
Hi Elecrafters, I just sold my big, heavy linear power supply to replace it with a small, light weight switching supply that I can pack into a suitcase with my K2/100. Looking at the eham.net reviews, comments on all of the switching supplies seem to range from great, absolutely no switching noise to noise everywhere, and everything in between. Given the sensitivity of the K2's receiver, is power supply switching noise likely to be more of a problem with the K2 than with some other rigs? Are there any switching power supplies that you'd recommend that work well with the K2 (and have little or no switching noise that the K2 would pick up) and are there any that I should definitely avoid? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
Hi Jim, I just put mine together last weekend. There is quite a bit of tension with the bail. In fact, my aluminum plate is bowed slightly from trying to get the other end of the bail fastened. It flattened when I attached it to the K2. Gary, N7HTS On Thu, 24 May 2007 20:25:58 -0700 (PDT) Jim Murray [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello All, Progress temporarily halted by (who would ever guess) a tilt bail. Somehow I've gone from great design and instructions to something that reminds me of putting toys together at Xmas Eve. Is this for real? Can anyone tell me the secret. How many people does it take to pull on the bail while dropping in the screws? Not sure a cave man can do it. Jim Be a better Globetrotter. Get better travel answers from someone who knows. Yahoo! Answers - Check it out. http://answers.yahoo.com/dir/?link=listsid=396545469 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] ANNOUNCEMENT - QRP-ARCI HOOTOWL SPRINT
Hello Everybody! Just a quick reminder that the next QRP-ARCI sponsored contest is coming up this weekend on Sunday Evening. The HOOTOWL SPRINT runs from 8pm to midnight LOCAL TIME to test your abilities to work through the night. Hope to hear everybody on the air. 73/72 Jeff - VA3JFF DATE/TIME: 8pm to Midnight LOCAL TIME on 27 May 2007. N.B. This contest starts at 8pm LOCAL TIME ! The calendar cannot handle local times so it shows 2000z. Ignore it ! No matter where you are, this contest starts at your local time 20:00 or 8pm OBJECTIVE: To test your ability to make contacts late into the evening local time. MODE: HF CW Only. EXCHANGE: Members send: RST, State/Province/Country, ARCI member number Non-Members send: RST, State/Province/Country, Power Out QSO POINTS: Member = 5 points Non-Member, Different Continent = 4 points Non-Member, Same Continent = 2 points MULTIPLIER: SPC (State/Province/Country) total for all bands. The same station may be worked on multiple bands for QSO points and SPC credit. POWER MULTIPLIER: 5 Watts = x1 1 - 5 Watts = x7 250 mW - 1 Watt = x10 55 mW - 250 mW = x15 55 mW or less = x20 SUGGESTED FREQUENCIES: 160m 1810 kHz 80m 3560 kHz 40m 7030 kHz (please listen at 7040 kHz for rock bound participants) 20m 14060 kHz 15m 21060 kHz 10m 28060 kHz SCORE: Final Score = Points (total for all bands) x SPCs (total for all bands) x Power Multiplier Bonus Points. BONUS POINTS: If you are operating PORTABLE using battery power AND a temporary antenna, add 5000 points to your final score. (You can NOT be at your shack operating from battery power using your home station antenna to qualify for this bonus.) This is to help level the playing field for contesters who work from the field against contest stations with 5 element yagis at 70 ft. CATEGORIES: Entry may be All-Band, Single Band, High Bands (10m-15m-20m) or Low Bands (40m-80m-160m) HOW TO PARTICIPATE: Get on any of the HF bands except the WARC bands and hang out near the QRP frequencies. Work as many stations calling CQ QRP or CQ TEST as possible, or call CQ QRP or CQ TEST yourself! You can work a station for credit once on each band. LOG SUBMISSION: Email Submission: Submit Logs in plain text format along with a summary stating your Callsign, Entry Category, Actual Power and Station Description along with score calculation to [EMAIL PROTECTED] on or before 27 June 2005. Snail mail Submission: Submit Logs along with a summary stating your Callsign, Entry Category, Actual Power and Station Description along with score calculation to: ARCI Hoot Owl Sprint c/o Jeff Hetherington, VA3JFF 139 Elizabeth St. W. Welland, Ontario Canada L3C 4M3 Entries must be postmarked on or before 27 June 2007. RESULTS: Will be published in QRP Quarterly and shown on the QRP-ARCI website. CERTIFICATES: Will be awarded to the top scoring entrant in each category, as well as the top scoring entrants from each State, Province and Country. Certificates may be awarded for 2nd and 3rd place if entries are sufficient in a category. = L. Jeffrey Hetherington - VA3JFF QRP-ARCI (sm) Contest Manager QRP-ARCI (sm) #9223 / K2 #3375 / KX1 #631 Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail at http://mrd.mail.yahoo.com/try_beta?.intl=ca ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
I have been using an Astron SS-30M with no noise difference on or off on 10-160M for my K2 and other 12V stuff. It sits about 4' away from the equipment on a shelf under my operating position. N2TK, Tony -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 10:04 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted Hi Elecrafters, I just sold my big, heavy linear power supply to replace it with a small, light weight switching supply that I can pack into a suitcase with my K2/100. Looking at the eham.net reviews, comments on all of the switching supplies seem to range from great, absolutely no switching noise to noise everywhere, and everything in between. Given the sensitivity of the K2's receiver, is power supply switching noise likely to be more of a problem with the K2 than with some other rigs? Are there any switching power supplies that you'd recommend that work well with the K2 (and have little or no switching noise that the K2 would pick up) and are there any that I should definitely avoid? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Safely Grounded (WAS: Being ESD Safe,)
Fred wrote: And secondly, which now makes much sense, that no secondary ground rods are to be used! - for one's electrical service in the home or facility. Multiple grounds, can create shock hazards. And as Don pointed out - a separate ground rod, if used at all, may be useful for one's RF antenna system, and that is all. But for ESD - the single home and facility ground connection - is the ONLY one to rely on for ESD safety. I just went through that with an electrical contractor myself. There seems to be a lot of contradictory information. As the contractor pointed out, there must be only one mains ground in a building, but that does not mean there are no other grounds! The phone company often installs a ground rod at their service entrance that is not connected to the mains ground. The cable TV company may drive in a ground at their service entrance to ground their cable. Add to that any iron water pipe that runs into the earth to the water meter, etc., and there may be several separate grounds in the home even without adding a grounded Ham antenna! Those grounds do present shock hazards if anything goes wrong with the mains ground or if the hot side of the mains circuit is exposed so that someone can touch it and any grounded conductor. That's why GFI interrupters are important in locations where secondary grounds are often encountered such as kitchens, laundry rooms, basements, bathrooms, outlets in out buildings such as garages, etc. If one grounds a Ham antenna at the at the antenna tower or mast, maybe the shack also should have GFI protection. I don't have such a grounded system so I haven't asked a contractor that question. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K3
Hi Barry, When you access any of these functions, VFO B is used to change the parameter. If there are two parameters to adjust, VFO A is used as well. 73, Wayne N6KR I have been looking at the picture of the K3 and note that there are adjustable NR, NB and manual notch - but there doesn't seem to be any knob to do the adjustment. VFO 2 ? Likewise there appears to be no control to put the rig into memory mode and to tune the memories - just VFO - M and M-VFO. --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Bandscope
With all this discussion about panadaptors for the K3 - and even people building SoftRock add-ons already, apparently - I have just one question. Since the K3 is reported to have a built-in capability to receive datamodes, which presumably includes some kind of waterfall display, could this not be developed in some future firmware release to give a bandscope type of display in other modes? I would be quite happy to toggle between the sub-VFO display and a bandscope. Since the datamodes capability is an aspect of the K3 I'm really keen on, it would be nice to see a picture of the display with the radio receiving some PSK31, just to see what it looks like. In fact, as one of the many who was unable to go to Dayton, and whose first sight of a working K3 is likely to be when the one I ordered has been completed, it would be great to see a video like the one on YouTube, but of a K3 actually on the air, with someone going through the controls and demonstrating things like how the DSP works and the effect of the different roofing filters. Julian, G4ILO G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
To take a lead from my former ME associates back at Kodak's CAD group - I think the Elecraft K2 bail, as designed, has too much K and is a tad too long. Decreasing length, ever so little in a vise - makes the whole job and final installation work nicely. I think the idea of temporarily decreasing width with a c-clamp and using LONG screws, is wrong IMHO, as it places a permanent spring force on the lower cabinet cover meterial - which could cause whoknowswhat. I can't imagine operating the bail, in that compression configuration. Bench vise adjustment - takes some mechanical skill, but it works better after process is done. BAIL still operates perfectly. Not rocket science .I suspect I decreased bail's width, at ears, by like 1/4 (recall from memory) Fred, N3CSY K2 54xx Need a vacation? Get great deals to amazing places on Yahoo! Travel. http://travel.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
Robert, I have used the Astron SS-30 PS on my K2/100. Worked fine. Used during FD and everyday use. No hash that I can detect. I got the one without meters. Cheaper and available at the time Lee - K0WA In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply. If you don't have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it. If you can't find any Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense. Is Common Sense devine? ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] #6107 - First Snag
-- Original message -- From: Dale Boresz [EMAIL PROTECTED] One of the most clever recommendations that I remember from those discussions a few years ago was to wrap a few turns of wire from one bail end to another and insert a short rod of some type and twist it tourniquet style to slowly draw the ends inward until they are drawn together enough to allow it to be attached. I found this technique to work beautifully, no pain no strain. Doug, W6JD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Modulation [K3]
I have a couple of questions on the K3. 1) I gather there is no agreed standard for digital voice modulation (at the moment). AOR seems to be using an open standard that they ascribe to G4GUO. My question is does the K3 have the capability to internally encode/decode a protocol such as the G4GUO scheme (and continue performing its other normal functions)? Or will it be necessary to look to an external device such as AOR's in order to use digital voice modulation? This question is a future feature query. 2) Amplitude modulation. I assume that the K3 does not have a 50 watt class A amp modulating the 100 watt finals. I guess the K3 fully modulates a low level stage that (with linear amplification and mixing) drives the finals. My question is does this provide the same talk power as the old class C AM transmitters? Or is the carrier to audio envelope proportion different (compared to the classic AM signal)? MikeW5FTD ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] #6107 Now has tilt stand
Thanks for all the help. Used a combination. Came up with the Big Red method. Sure someone has already done it. Only requirement is a large clamp or vise. Follow directions in the manual with first foot and insert bail in that foot. Take other foot and put the regular screws in. Chew some bubble gum (Big Red) and put a little over the screw to hold them all the way in. Insert in vise or clamp and tighten until screws line up and insert foot and tighten. I used a bench mounted wood faced carpenters vise. The whole process took about 5 minutes (including time to get all the gum out). I see there is a slight bow in the plate but will flatten when screwed on. Thanks again! Jim Pinpoint customers who are looking for what you sell. http://searchmarketing.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead - getting interestring?
Don, Thanks for your help. When I checked for continuity between the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 it came up negative - problem. So I temporarily jumped the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 and the rig powered up correctly. Then I took the heat sink off and I see trouble, not sure if these are the right words, but it is what I see. The board between D9 via R-14, R-13, FRC-11 almost to R7 is delaminated, no green material, just copper and there is evidence of charring. Allan Bacon W6GBG -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 10:40 AM To: Allan Bacon Cc: [EMAIL PROTECTED]; Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead? Alan, You are reading the schematic correctly - yes there should be a connection between the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 (check to be certain they are connected with an ohmmeter first). If you find the path open, you could install a TEMPORARY jumper between D10 cathode and D9 anode on top of the board to see if everything comes back to life. If that restores full function, then remove the board to find the damaged PC board trace or (more likely) the bad solder connection. Nothing in your measurements indicate a bad diode to me. A diode conducts positive voltage from the anode to the cathode (hint: follow the arrowhead on the diode symbol), but blocks a positive voltage in the opposite direction. 73, Don W3FPR Allan Bacon wrote: I started tracing 13.8 V from the power source Input 13.8 V Diode D10 Cathode 13.8 V Anode 0 to ground as per specifications Diode D9 Anode 0 V Cathode 0 V So, it seems power is not getting to the D9 Diode From the schematic on page 64, it looks as those are the only components on the trace from power injection to the KPA-100 to the Aux 12V at J4 Here is where my lack of knowledge shows up - 1. Since voltage is not present on either side of the diode, should I pull the heat sink and check the trace on the board? 2. Or - Does a bad (not even sure what that means) diode prevent voltage from showing up? 3. Or - What ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Tilt Stand Bail - Violin Effect
The 6-sided K2 Case, I propose, can be put into a violin-case permanent pre-stressed condition, common to many string instruments - when they notorious Bail - is pre-stressed installed, with the Long-Screw method. Many installers have noted the post-stress bowed cover plate, after their long-screw install. ... but it straightens out when installed. I propose the whole case, and any attached pcbs, and possibly some pcb-installed components - all now share in that bowing process, during long-screw installation. Maybe the LCD display, perhaps installed L's, possibly pcb component and IC shorts, that mysteriously showed up only after a few months service? I'm sure this all sounds silly - but my bend-bail-1/4-inch-in-a-vise method, eliminates the distorted 6-sided K2 case condition. Hypothesis - let's say the bail is pre-bent 1/2 too long, but installer used the long-screw method and temporary compression, to get the very long bail intalled on panel. Then K2 builder installed this bowed panel on his or her K2 - and in effect straightened it out supposedly flat with body screws. Then the entire 6-sided case, would now be-prestressed violin-style by that original too-long bail. Sounds, I know, like an April 1st entry, but I propose we may have found one source of the problems of some of the past strange situations that mysteriously show up in K2's in the field. Key jacks that mysteriously last only a short time, adjustments that seem too touchy, mechanical adjustments that seem to change, front-panel buttons that don't work correctly, rheostat shafts that start to bind, speakers that seem to be distorted?, speaker coils that now bind, component lead shorts that came out of nowhere, Doubt it? Fred, FL Snow Bird on the road north N3CSY Awaiting his K3 delivery Get the free Yahoo! toolbar and rest assured with the added security of spyware protection. http://new.toolbar.yahoo.com/toolbar/features/norton/index.php ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K3 : Rack Mount Option?
This might be a possibility for the future, Dwight, but probably not this year. Of course any K3 owner is welcome to develop their own rack mount solution and share it with the list. 73, Wayne N6KR On May 25, 2007, at 11:32 AM, Dwight wrote: Had asked prior to Dayton, but really did not get a yea or a nay to the possiblity to factory rack mount kits for the K3 and options? I know its a field ready transceiver, but sometimes that also helps in making a shipping container for long trips or portable opperation stations. Thoughts? Dwight Agnew - AI4II 9335 King George Dr. Manassas, VA U.S.A. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KX1 Question
I just finished the build of the various KX1 items that I purchased at the Viasalia DX Convention. All went well at each stage of the build from basic KX1+KXAT1+KXB30+KXPD1. I am checking out the total configuration and I notice something now that I don't recall see earlier. After I finish transmitting and the display has shown the 5/6 tick marks their is approximately a 2-3 second delay of blank screen before the frequency is shown again! Is this normal? Nice little radio but using my TH7 antenna for approximately 10db of gain to check it out. Able to work guys even with the poor conditions we are experiencing. 73 Elliott WA6TLA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Safely Grounded (WAS: Being ESD Safe,)
Ron, I believe there is a NEC requirement that all grounds be connected together. I have a perimeter ground around my house with an 8 ft. driven ground rod at every corner (total of 10), and all are connected with a #4 bare solid wire. The wire is also connected to the utility ground rod. This ground is then connected to the extensive grounding system in the antenna field which grounds all towers and masts. All feedlines into the shack are protected by 2 Polyphaser suppressors (one at the antenna field. All wiring into the shack area (power, telco, ethernet, and antennas) enter through a grounded copper panel and are surge protected there. I should have little ground potential difference in the shack area because of this 'single point grounding window'. If I do get a lightning surge, I trust (hope) that surge will be more gradually dissipated in the extensive ground system since it will attempt to spread the surge out over about an acre of land (yes, I used LOTS of wire), but I still do not operate with storms in the vicinity. The real point relevant to the prior discussion is that *all* my grounds are tied back to the utility ground entry point. As a second note, I know the building inspectors (at final inspection time) in this area do check with those little 'hardware store checkers' to make certain that the receptacles are wired properly. It is also common for a used home buyer to hire an inspector who will check all the receptacles in the house for proper wiring. While that practice may not be universal, one can do his own check on the house wiring with a $10 device from the hardware (or DIY) store. 73, Don W3FPR Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: Fred wrote: And secondly, which now makes much sense, that no secondary ground rods are to be used! - for one's electrical service in the home or facility. Multiple grounds, can create shock hazards. And as Don pointed out - a separate ground rod, if used at all, may be useful for one's RF antenna system, and that is all. But for ESD - the single home and facility ground connection - is the ONLY one to rely on for ESD safety. I just went through that with an electrical contractor myself. There seems to be a lot of contradictory information. As the contractor pointed out, there must be only one mains ground in a building, but that does not mean there are no other grounds! The phone company often installs a ground rod at their service entrance that is not connected to the mains ground. The cable TV company may drive in a ground at their service entrance to ground their cable. Add to that any iron water pipe that runs into the earth to the water meter, etc., and there may be several separate grounds in the home even without adding a grounded Ham antenna! Those grounds do present shock hazards if anything goes wrong with the mains ground or if the hot side of the mains circuit is exposed so that someone can touch it and any grounded conductor. That's why GFI interrupters are important in locations where secondary grounds are often encountered such as kitchens, laundry rooms, basements, bathrooms, outlets in out buildings such as garages, etc. If one grounds a Ham antenna at the at the antenna tower or mast, maybe the shack also should have GFI protection. I don't have such a grounded system so I haven't asked a contractor that question. Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Was Fine Now Dead - getting interestring?
Allan, Fine that you found it - somewhere along the line, the base K2 was drawing excessive current and the trace acted like a fuse. I can't say what the original problem was - maybe the power connector was plugged in backwards, or something 'dumb' like that. In any case, it is a simple matter to remove the delaminated PC board trace and any charred material then repair it with wire. I would recommend that you use #20 or larger wire for that replacement trace (or use 2 pieces of #22 side by side). If you use bare wire, you can dress it along the old path and encapsulate it in a small bit of epoxy which will also glue the wire down to the board - it will be just as good as new (you can even color it green with a permanent marker and few folks will spot the repair). 73, Don W3FPR Allan Bacon wrote: Don, Thanks for your help. When I checked for continuity between the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 it came up negative - problem. So I temporarily jumped the cathode of D10 and the anode of D9 and the rig powered up correctly. Then I took the heat sink off and I see trouble, not sure if these are the right words, but it is what I see. The board between D9 via R-14, R-13, FRC-11 almost to R7 is delaminated, no green material, just copper and there is evidence of charring. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
Bob, if you're looking for something to put in a suitcase, I would highly recommend the Gamma HPS-1. It is VERY small and light and works well with the K2 up to 100W. It is a switching supply with an internal supercap to handle dynamic loads. No RF noise that I can hear and also acoustically quiet. I really like mine. Check it out at www.gammaresearch.com 73 ... Craig AC0DS Craig D. Smith PowerSmith Consulting 1009 Alder Way Longmont, CO 80503 phone: 303-678-7958 email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] web: www.PowerSmithConsulting.com -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Solosko, Robert B (Bob) Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 8:04 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted Hi Elecrafters, I just sold my big, heavy linear power supply to replace it with a small, light weight switching supply that I can pack into a suitcase with my K2/100. Looking at the eham.net reviews, comments on all of the switching supplies seem to range from great, absolutely no switching noise to noise everywhere, and everything in between. Given the sensitivity of the K2's receiver, is power supply switching noise likely to be more of a problem with the K2 than with some other rigs? Are there any switching power supplies that you'd recommend that work well with the K2 (and have little or no switching noise that the K2 would pick up) and are there any that I should definitely avoid? Thanks. Bob W1SRB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
I think this might be the link you wanted http://www.gammaresearch.net/hps-1a.html de ken n9vv Craig D. Smith wrote: Bob, if you're looking for something to put in a suitcase, I would highly recommend the Gamma HPS-1. It is VERY small and light and works well with the K2 up to 100W. It is a switching supply with an internal supercap to handle dynamic loads. No RF noise that I can hear and also acoustically quiet. I really like mine. Check it out at www.gammaresearch.com 73 ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] A couple of K3 Questions which kinda got lost
Hi Wayne, a while before Dayton I asked and, with the amount stress you guys were in, understandably, didn't get an answer either that or I missed your answer. 1) A friend of mine with a big 160m station killed his RX front end because too much power was coming back on his beverages and the rig's RX antenna input was not grounded / disconnected during transmission by the transceiver. Are the K3 antenna inputs which might be used for RX only antennas protected against too much power coming back via the RX antenna? 2) At our contest QTH when we work multi between some of the antennas we also have a lot of power coming back - roughly 20W in the worst case combination of beams and bands (without the extra band passes). How strong is the RX front end of the K3? How much power can it handle without releasing its smoke? Does anyone know what the current ETA of the K3 manual is? Late June at the earliest, Michael. Need any proof reading done? ;-) ;-) ;-) vy 73 es have a nice weekend, toby -- DD5FZ, 4N6FZ (ex dj7mgq, dg5mgq, dd5fz) K2 #885, K2/100 #3248 K3/100 #??? ( #200) DOK C12, BCC, DL-QRP-AG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
Craig- Are you sure about this link? Gamma Research seems to be a s/w house. Bruce, NM5B Santa Fe, NM - Original Message - From: Craig D. Smith [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 2:16 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted Bob, if you're looking for something to put in a suitcase, I would highly recommend the Gamma HPS-1. It is VERY small and light and works well with the K2 up to 100W. It is a switching supply with an internal supercap to handle dynamic loads. No RF noise that I can hear and also acoustically quiet. I really like mine. Check it out at www.gammaresearch.com 73 ... Craig AC0DS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 Bandscope
Julian. THere is no waterfall display on the K3. Part of the S-meter is used for tuning CW, PSK and RTTY. When you are tuned in and with text decode ON, the VFO B display then shows scrolling text of the decoded signal. 73 Greg AB7R -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 8:48 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Bandscope With all this discussion about panadaptors for the K3 - and even people building SoftRock add-ons already, apparently - I have just one question. Since the K3 is reported to have a built-in capability to receive datamodes, which presumably includes some kind of waterfall display, could this not be developed in some future firmware release to give a bandscope type of display in other modes? I would be quite happy to toggle between the sub-VFO display and a bandscope. Since the datamodes capability is an aspect of the K3 I'm really keen on, it would be nice to see a picture of the display with the radio receiving some PSK31, just to see what it looks like. In fact, as one of the many who was unable to go to Dayton, and whose first sight of a working K3 is likely to be when the one I ordered has been completed, it would be great to see a video like the one on YouTube, but of a K3 actually on the air, with someone going through the controls and demonstrating things like how the DSP works and the effect of the different roofing filters. Julian, G4ILO G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] K3 datamodes decoding to CW?
Matti, This is not a feature in the current firmware but its being put on the feature list for future updates. 73 Greg AB7R -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Marteinn Sverrisson Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 7:53 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 datamodes decoding to CW? Hi I have one question regarding the Data modes decoder on K3, can it send the decoded message to the speaker using Morse code, as well as displaying the text on the LCD? 73, Matti, TF3MA -- Marteinn SverrissonTF3MA Langitangi 2Internet: tf3ma [at] raunvis [dot] hi [dot] is 270 Mosfellsbær http://www.raunvis.hi.is/~tf3ma Iceland ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Linear Amplifiers
I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status of the Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits. What is the current status? HOWARD W. ASHCRAFT, Jr. Direct Dial: (415) 995-5073 [EMAIL PROTECTED] HANSON 425 Market Street, 26th Floor BRIDGETTSan Francisco, CA 94105-2173 MARCUS Direct: (415) 995-5073 VLAHOS Main: (415) 777-3200 RUDY, LLP Fax: (415) 995-3460 * This communication, including any attachments, is confidential and may be protected by privilege. If you are not the intended recipient, any use, dissemination, distribution, or copying of this communication is strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, please immediately notify the sender by telephone or email, and permanently delete all copies, electronic or other, you may have. To ensure compliance with requirements imposed by the IRS, we inform you that any tax advice contained in this communication (including any attachments) was not intended or written to be used, and cannot be used, for the purpose of (i) avoiding penalties under the Internal Revenue Code or (ii) promoting, marketing or recommending to another party any transaction or matter addressed herein. The foregoing applies even if this notice is embedded in a message that is forwarded or attached. * ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 front-end protection
Hi Toby, [NOTE: I'm so busy that I'm answering about one e-mail a day, now, and yours is it :) Normally someone else will answer, or the answers will end up in the FAQ later on.] 1) A friend of mine with a big 160m station killed his RX front end because too much power was coming back on his beverages and the rig's RX antenna input was not grounded / disconnected during transmission by the transceiver. Are the K3 antenna inputs which might be used for RX only antennas protected against too much power coming back via the RX antenna? All antenna ports have gas-discharge tubes, and the RX-only ports also have carrier-operated relays. We also monitor the SWR bridge in receive mode (forward/reflected power). If a signal large enough to cause front-end damage appears in the main T-R path (a reverse transmit condition), we quickly open the PIN diode path to the receiver, typically in less than 1 ms. The path will recover equally fast when the huge external signal disappears. Obviously this situation is to be avoided, which is why such stations often use external band-pass filters. 2) At our contest QTH when we work multi between some of the antennas we also have a lot of power coming back - roughly 20W in the worst case combination of beams and bands (without the extra band passes). How strong is the RX front end of the K3? How much power can it handle without releasing its smoke? See above. At a certain power level the RX path will be opened (and the audio muted) to avoid exposing the preamp, mixer, and down-stream stages to multi-watt signals. 73, Wayne N6KR --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Recommendations Wanted
Sorry, Bruce - it should be www.gammaresearch.net 73 ... Craig ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] KX1 Question
Hi Elliott Mine has done that all along so I assume it's the norm. All is working fine, just need the band to open up a bit. I put the 80-30 mod on mine, also like the paddles even though some say they don't. Very sweet little radio. Werner N8BB -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Elliott Lawrence Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 3:58 PM To: Elecraft List Subject: [Elecraft] KX1 Question I just finished the build of the various KX1 items that I purchased at the Viasalia DX Convention. All went well at each stage of the build from basic KX1+KXAT1+KXB30+KXPD1. I am checking out the total configuration and I notice something now that I don't recall see earlier. After I finish transmitting and the display has shown the 5/6 tick marks their is approximately a 2-3 second delay of blank screen before the frequency is shown again! Is this normal? Nice little radio but using my TH7 antenna for approximately 10db of gain to check it out. Able to work guys even with the poor conditions we are experiencing. 73 Elliott WA6TLA ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KPA-100 Problem
Good evening Group, I seem to be having some trouble with my KPA-100. (K2 serial 4991), Perhaps one of you could shine a light where mine don't reach. Assembly and initial checks went OK. At the end of the assembly, I ran into the problem. Checks on page 46: Junction of C77 and R11 says 90 to 150 V, I get 11.6 V U4 pin 8 says -5 to -25 V, I get 2.8 mV I have rechecked T3 and all looks well. I was careful with D1 - D8 as I knew they would be hard to check after assembly. Any suggestions before I take the rear panel and heat sink off? (shudder). FWIW: Since the smoke wasn't getting out, I went ahead with the checks on page 46 and the first one on page 47 and all went well, but that's probably inconsequential. I'm sure the problem must be in the bias supply. Thanks, Tom, kj3d ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: [ Elecraft] Switching Power Supply Reccomendations Wanted
Craig, The old SMPS/linear supply finer points have been around a while, and while I use a switcher here on one set with what I perceive to be no switching noise at all, it is a different story if I re-locate to a beach house we have where the ambient noise is virtually zero. There, the SMPS difinitely has a low level of noise mainly on the lower bandsthat manifests itself as a low level mobile rasping that drifts around slowly every few khz . At home I would swear it was clean.( and I have a quiet location for all intents and purposes) However, the small amount of switching noise doesn't worry me for the short times I am portable, and the convenience of not putting an arm out of joint carrying around a transformer derived supply far outweighs any noise I encounter. Having said that, if you want completely noise free operation, then the linear supply will win hands down. I have used home made switchers that I have put a lot of effort into trying to get absolutely clean and never 100% achieved that goal. I eventually fell back on MFJ switchers, which I find as good as any, and there is a $99 model that is small, light and very portable, and probably as clean as you will get in a switching supply. There will be others on the market much the same ( Samlex?) To round upyou can't beat the switchers for portability and convenience, but buy a Brand name model. In most suburban or density locations you probably won't notice any noise. However if you are going portable where man made noise doesn't exist, the Linear supply, or batteries will win out every time. It's the old story of YMMV. Cheers..Ron ZL1TW ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Tools / Manual
Hopefully the manual will include a list of necessary tools. Regards, Dick - KA5KKT/4 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KPA-100 Problem
Tom, I hate to admit this, but I had a similar problem when I built my KPA100. The reason I hate to admit it is after troubleshooting, I found that I had installed Q6, Q7 (the two odd shaped FETs) backwards. To make matters worse, I broke a lead on one removing it to turn it around and ended up ordering replacements from Elecraft, which delayed the completion of the amp by several days. Hope this helps! 73 de Mike, N0SO K2 #4757 -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of KJ3D Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 5:10 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] KPA-100 Problem Good evening Group, I seem to be having some trouble with my KPA-100. (K2 serial 4991), Perhaps one of you could shine a light where mine don't reach. Assembly and initial checks went OK. At the end of the assembly, I ran into the problem. Checks on page 46: Junction of C77 and R11 says 90 to 150 V, I get 11.6 V U4 pin 8 says -5 to -25 V, I get 2.8 mV I have rechecked T3 and all looks well. I was careful with D1 - D8 as I knew they would be hard to check after assembly. Any suggestions before I take the rear panel and heat sink off? (shudder). ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft Linear Amplifiers
Howard writes ... I have searched the reflector for information regarding the status of the Elecraft linear amplifiers without any responsive hits. What is the current status? -- Howard, In his message on Monday April 30 Wayne wrote ... The KPA800/1500 amplifiers will work with any rig, including the K2 and K3. These have been delayed because of the K3 release, but we'll keep everyone informed of progress. See http://www.ac6rm.net/mailarchive/html/elecraft-list/2007-04/msg01239.html for the complete text of Wayne's post. 73, Gary, KI4GGX ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Dead K2-now lives!
Many thanks to all who replied to my question. What happened was that while I was putting T4 on, I overheated the 7-8 winding and it melted through the insulation of the 3-4 winding, therefore shorting it. So I just rewound it and it works! Thanks again! 73, Kristina KE7LUC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tools / Manual
On May 25, 2007, at 4:49 PM, Ken Kopp wrote: At one time there was mention of a Phillips screwdriver being the only tool required. If one needs a list of required tools to go buy 'em in preparation for the task I wonder if one should be undertaking the task. (:-)) I suppose there might be a ham w/o tools . naah, doubt it. (:-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] Maybe someone about to leave the ranks of the QCAO! 73 - Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re: K3 : Rack Mount Option?
Maybe the forthcoming K3 power supply and external speaker can be combined into a single box that can be attached to either side of the K3; thus making th e package the right width for the addition of some rack mount side plates. 73, Henry - K4TMC ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Weller temp setting for KX1 build
Hi Guys, I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new Weller WES51 solder station. Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get the temp right? I read the manual that came with it, but it really didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would come with something that says set the dial here for this temp. I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what setting to use on the dial. Thanks for the help, -Chris Yahoo! oneSearch: Finally, mobile search that gives answers, not web links. http://mobile.yahoo.com/mobileweb/onesearch?refer=1ONXIC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weller temp setting for KX1 build
Chris, I find a setting of 700 degrees F about right for me. An even better indication is to see how long it takes for solder to flow. If you can achieve a good solder connection in 2 to 3 seconds, that is about the right temperature. If it takes longer for the solder to flow out to a nicely tapered edge where the solder edge is almost invisible on both the solder pad and the component lead, then your temperature is too low - if the solder flows in 1 second or less, then the iron is too hot. Take a look at the soldering tutorial on the Elecraft website Builder's Resource page to see what a good solder connection looks like. 73, Don W3FPR Koaps wrote: Hi Guys, I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new Weller WES51 solder station. Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get the temp right? I read the manual that came with it, but it really didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would come with something that says set the dial here for this temp. I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what setting to use on the dial. Thanks for the help, -Chris ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K3 Tools / Manual
Clarification - LESS tools than required for the K2 :-) No soldering iron is required at this point and probably just an assortment of screwdrivers, small pliers, DVM etc. We'll post a more complete tool list as we get closer to production. 73, Eric Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote: The same as required for the K2. 73, Eric --- Edward Dickinson III wrote: Hopefully the manual will include a list of necessary tools. Regards, Dick - KA5KKT/4 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Weller temp setting for KX1 build
I built all my elecraft stuff with the soldering iron set at about 630-660F. Bigger parts needed more heat, but for almost everything small, and the .020 solder, that heat was enough to give a nice solder connection. I had zero solder problems on all my stuff. Brett N2DTS Hi Guys, I'm getting ready to start in on my KX1 build but one thing I'm a bit stuck on is the setting for my new Weller WES51 solder station. Can anyone using one of these things suggest how I get the temp right? I read the manual that came with it, but it really didn't make much sense to me, and I thought it would come with something that says set the dial here for this temp. I did get a roll of Kester 44 solder, .020, that was suggested in the solder guide, I'm just not sure what setting to use on the dial. Thanks for the help, -Chris ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Weller temp setting for KX1 build
Thanks Don and Brett, Just the bit of info I needed. Thanks again for the help, I'm really excited about building my KX1. I spend some extra money to make sure nothing goes wrong with ESD(I got a mat, wrist strip, and Monster surge protector with coax hookups, I figured I could use it to ground me and the mat and have ground fault protection for the soldering station). I also got a nice panavise to help with soldering/desoldering. I hope to start in on the build tomorrow, only thing I lack is a dummy load, but I might be able to borrow that from a friend. Thanks again for the help, -Chris Ready for the edge of your seat? Check out tonight's top picks on Yahoo! TV. http://tv.yahoo.com/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
FW: [Elecraft] K3 Tools / Manual
Hi Ken and Bob...perhaps others. It occurred to me that when some order a K3, some might want to have their tools ready and an appropriate area prepared awaiting its arrival. Some wouldn't want to find themselves at midnight not recalling where they had last stored a perhaps required appliance. Of course, that wouldn't happen to a well organized ham. And, really guys... I forgive your knee-jerk, gangsterish attempts to belittle and negate on this public reflector as I realize they are part of a life script that won't change. Heck...who needs QCAOers..? Regards, Dick - KA5KKT/4 -Original Message- Hopefully the manual will include a list of necessary tools. Regards, Dick - KA5KKT/4 -Another Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ken Kopp Sent: Friday, May 25, 2007 7:50 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Tools / Manual At one time there was mention of a Phillips screwdriver being the only tool required. If one needs a list of required tools to go buy 'em in preparation for the task I wonder if one should be undertaking the task. (:-)) I suppose there might be a ham w/o tools . naah, doubt it. (:-)) 73! Ken Kopp - K0PP [EMAIL PROTECTED] -Yet Another Original Message- Maybe someone about to leave the ranks of the QCAO! 73 - Bob, N7XY ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Phase locked Receivers
Anyone know if its going to be possible to phase lock the 2 k3 receivers? Craig VK3HE Luggage? GPS? Comic books? Check out fitting gifts for grads at Yahoo! Search http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mailp=graduation+giftscs=bz ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K3 Equalizer/Noise gate?
Does the K3 have a Noise Gate feature integrated into the microphone equalizer? I ask this question not from a ESSB perspective, I just have a noisy blower! Craig VK3HE Got a little couch potato? Check out fun summer activities for kids. http://search.yahoo.com/search?fr=oni_on_mailp=summer+activities+for+kidscs=bz ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K3 Phase locked Receivers
They run off the same reference oscillator and are phase locked. 73, Wayne N6KR On May 25, 2007, at 8:34 PM, Craig ... wrote: Anyone know if its going to be possible to phase lock the 2 k3 receivers? --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
