Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Paul Christensen

FWIW, standard Line Out is 1Vp-p at 600 ohms line impedance.  matt


I think you'll find standard, nominal Line-In/Out consumer levels to be 
referenced to -10 dBV irrespective of Z, where 0dBV = 1 Vrms.  This standard 
started with the old IHF, merged into EIA, and then somewhere along the way 
I believe AES became the recognized standard-setting organization in North 
America.  K9YC would know for sure.


-10 dBV is equivalent to 0.316 Vrms.  If we assume a worst-case 10 dB 
peak-to-average ratio (and probably a lot less depending on the K3's AGC 
menu settings), then the maximum distortion-free signal voltage handling 
required is 0 dBV or 1 Vrms or 2.83 Vp-p.


Paul, W9AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 07:28:32 -0500, Paul Christensen wrote:

 FWIW, standard Line Out is 1Vp-p at 600 ohms line impedance.  matt

I think you'll find standard, nominal Line-In/Out consumer levels to be 
referenced to -10 dBV irrespective of Z, where 0dBV = 1 Vrms. 

Yes. 600 ohms has not been part of audio practice, pro or consumer, for at 
least 40 years. ALL line level and mic level audio circuits, pro and 
consumer, are low impedance source, high impedance termination. The signal 
is transferred as a voltage, not as power or current. Typical output 
impedances are on the order of 100 ohms, input impedances are typically 
10K for pro line level, 50K for consumer line level. 100 ohms is chosen 
primarily because it is a good value for isolation of op amps from the 
capacitance of the cable that it drives. This capacitance can be 
significant in pro installations, but rarely in consumer applications. 

This standard started with the old IHF, merged into EIA, and then 
somewhere along the way I believe AES became the recognized 
standard-setting organization in North America.  K9YC would know

I can't speak to the history of these standards, but The AES Standards 
Committee is an international body, of which I am a member. 

-10 dBV is equivalent to 0.316 Vrms.  If we assume a worst-case 10 dB 
peak-to-average ratio (and probably a lot less depending on the K3's AGC 
menu settings), then the maximum distortion-free signal voltage handling 
required is 0 dBV or 1 Vrms or 2.83 Vp-p.

Yes.

For those who are interested, there's more on this in the tutorials on my 
website. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Matt Zilmer
In the past, it was suggested that folks add a T or Pi attenuator to
bring the level down.  I build two 13 dB T attenuators for 600 ohms,
and this worked fine - one for MIC IN and the other for SPKR OUT -
this is on a laptop.  Housing them (inline)  in micro-miniature
plastic housings once used for a Magellan GPS PIFA antenna.

Doing this allowed much finer control over levels than I had before. I
had to run Line In at 2 - which for PSK or other data modes leaves no
control space at all.  Now I can run it at 14 or 15, which is just
right.

73,
matt zilmer, W6NIA
k3 # 24

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 02:42:10 -0800 (PST), you wrote:




André Santos wrote:
 
 
 The actual output level (or amplification) for some reason is well below
 the standard for line outs. Elecraft should address this problem.
 
 

That may or may not be the case but it is more than ample to drive a sound
card input. To drive my sound card without overload I only need the line out
level set to about 4. The problem is worse for those who use laptops because
most new laptops appear not to have a line input at all, only a microphone
input which of course is a lot more sensitive and requires even less signal
from the K3.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Matt Zilmer
Thanks, both Paul and Jim for this information.  Very useful and I'll
update my knowledge base with it!

73,
matt

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 08:45:53 -0800, you wrote:

On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 07:28:32 -0500, Paul Christensen wrote:

 FWIW, standard Line Out is 1Vp-p at 600 ohms line impedance.  matt

I think you'll find standard, nominal Line-In/Out consumer levels to be 
referenced to -10 dBV irrespective of Z, where 0dBV = 1 Vrms. 

Yes. 600 ohms has not been part of audio practice, pro or consumer, for at 
least 40 years. ALL line level and mic level audio circuits, pro and 
consumer, are low impedance source, high impedance termination. The signal 
is transferred as a voltage, not as power or current. Typical output 
impedances are on the order of 100 ohms, input impedances are typically 
10K for pro line level, 50K for consumer line level. 100 ohms is chosen 
primarily because it is a good value for isolation of op amps from the 
capacitance of the cable that it drives. This capacitance can be 
significant in pro installations, but rarely in consumer applications. 

This standard started with the old IHF, merged into EIA, and then 
somewhere along the way I believe AES became the recognized 
standard-setting organization in North America.  K9YC would know

I can't speak to the history of these standards, but The AES Standards 
Committee is an international body, of which I am a member. 

-10 dBV is equivalent to 0.316 Vrms.  If we assume a worst-case 10 dB 
peak-to-average ratio (and probably a lot less depending on the K3's AGC 
menu settings), then the maximum distortion-free signal voltage handling 
required is 0 dBV or 1 Vrms or 2.83 Vp-p.

Yes.

For those who are interested, there's more on this in the tutorials on my 
website. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish

73,

Jim Brown K9YC


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[Elecraft] SELL: K3/100

2008-12-17 Thread Dave
Hi-
 I have two K3/100 rigs. One is enough...sort of.
 For sale is a factory built K3/100 in perfect condition. Not a scratch, non 
smoking environment. I will ship it and insure it in the lower 48. Not outside 
of U.S.
 This rig includes:
Power amplifier...KPA3-F
Internal antenna  tunerKAT3-F (with second antenna jack)
KFL3A-500..500 Hz, 5 pole roofing filter
KFL3A-200..200 Hz, 5 pole roofing filter
KFL3B-FM13 KHz, 8 pole roofing filter (required for FM)

$2525 shipped and insured. Reply off list, please.

73 de Dave in NH


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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Date and Time Problem

2008-12-17 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I've not seen that myself, Gerry. Since you know it's not shorted, suggest
you:

1)  Check power at the holder terminals and not just across the battery? If
you have the KRX3, it's not too hard to accidentally slip the battery shield
in between the battery and the contact, effectively disconnecting the
battery from the rig.  

2) Is the battery in the right way around (polarity correct)? 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of w...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 7:53 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Date and Time Problem

My K3 (1428) has had a problem maintaining date  and time information when 
the power is off. Since I didn't buy my K3 to be a  $3000 clock/calendar,
this 
is not a big problem but a minor annoyance.   When I turn the power off and 
turn it back on the date normally goes to  12.19.01 (US Format) and the
Time to 
15:11:22 although the last four digits  are normally different. The
battery 
is not shorted and seems to be able to  retain VFO memories and other
setting 
just fine.I just installed the  sub-receiver, but this problem was there 
since I first built the K3 in August  2008.  I haven't seen any threads of a

similar problem so any suggestions  would be appreciated.

Tnx,

Gerry, W1GD  

**One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0
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[Elecraft] K3 No 133

2008-12-17 Thread Keith Bainbridge

Ok I've been very busy enjoying my K3 for almost one year now !!
( serial No 133)  It's an amazing radio.
I've just started to pay creedence to the need to update/modify/ get 
help for my radio.
What do I have to do to  bring it up to date, I dont mean software 
updates as I am on the ball there, but should I be asking Elecraft for 
any mod kits etc?
I've ordered two more K3's for our club ( VK6ANC) which are in Customs 
here as we speak which will be fully up to date I would imagine but what 
about my old girl !

Thanks! and Merry Xmas
Keith VK6XH


--
Keith
VK6XH / VK6DXR
Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC
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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread David Cutter
600ohms still seems to be the practice for ship and aircraft intercoms that 
I've come across recently.


David
G3UNA



Yes. 600 ohms has not been part of audio practice, pro or consumer, for at
least 40 years. ALL line level and mic level audio circuits, pro and
consumer, are low impedance source, high impedance termination. The signal
is transferred as a voltage, not as power or current. Typical output
impedances are on the order of 100 ohms, input impedances are typically
10K for pro line level, 50K for consumer line level. 100 ohms is chosen
primarily because it is a good value for isolation of op amps from the
capacitance of the cable that it drives. This capacitance can be
significant in pro installations, but rarely in consumer applications.

For those who are interested, there's more on this in the tutorials on my
website. http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish

73,

Jim Brown K9YC



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[Elecraft] K3 AF Mods

2008-12-17 Thread Bob Evans
I don't really use my speaker very often, but I just wanted to keep my K3s
up to date by installing the AF amp and LINE OUT AF mods.  They went in very
easily even though I chose the harder installation choices.  I even piggy
backed the SMT resistors without a problem.  They aren't pretty, but they
work fine.  ;-)I then plugged in a pair of external Yamaha computer
speakers I had laying around and the audio sounds very mellow and clear on
both SSB an CW.  I also adjusted the RX EQ to emphasize the lower ranges
more.  I really hadn't noticed any distortion previously, but it seems to be
more pleasing to the ears now.  I feel like a Bose advertisement now when I
say I can't believe that GREAT sound comes out of that little bitty box!.

 

73,

Bob K5WA 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Subreceiver

2008-12-17 Thread Bill W4ZV



Jon K Hellan wrote:
 
 
 My K3 has 3 filters - 2.7, 1.8 and 0.5. How much sense would it make to
 order a subreceiver with just the standard
 filter?
 
 

It depends on how much you plan to use it in contests.  If you are a
*serious* SSB/CW contester who plans to use a KRX3 during contests, you
probably need both the 1.8 and 0.5.  If not, you don't need extra filters. 
If you do plan to add a 500 to the KRX3 for diversity use, you should note
the offset of your existing 0.5 and attempt to get one close to it.  It's
not critical that 500 offsets be perfectly matched...just within ~50 Hz and
then set the common offset to the approximate midpoint.  

BTW my 200 in Main and 500 in Sub differ by 130 Hz in offset, yet I notice
no beating when using that combination.  However my case may be unique and
you should always use matched offsets for identical filters.

Beware...once you use true diversity, you will never want another rig
without it!

73,  Bill

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http://n2.nabble.com/Subreceiver-tp1668172p1668279.html
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[Elecraft] K3: Date and Time Problem

2008-12-17 Thread W1GD
My K3 (1428) has had a problem maintaining date  and time information when 
the power is off. Since I didn't buy my K3 to be a  $3000 clock/calendar, this 
is not a big problem but a minor annoyance.   When I turn the power off and 
turn it back on the date normally goes to  12.19.01 (US Format) and the Time 
to 
15:11:22 although the last four digits  are normally different. The battery 
is not shorted and seems to be able to  retain VFO memories and other setting 
just fine.I just installed the  sub-receiver, but this problem was there 
since I first built the K3 in August  2008.  I haven't seen any threads of a 
similar problem so any suggestions  would be appreciated.

Tnx,

Gerry, W1GD  

**One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 feeling of knobs and switches

2008-12-17 Thread .k8dd.


wayne burdick wrote:
 
 
 A useful tool in this regard is the CONFIG:SW TEST menu entry. 
 (Requires that TECH MD = ON.) When you're in this menu entry, you can 
 tap any switch to check its scan code. Support can help you determine 
 if incorrect codes are being returned for some reason.
 
 
 

Maybe it's not me and the way I press the switches!
Most of mine flash between two numbers when I hold the switch . I
take it that this is not normal, and probably why it does strange things
sometimes when I either tap or hold some of the switches . Like when
Band Down (or Up) goes down (or up) two bands and maybe turns on (or
off) the VOX sometimes - Not real steady.

Thanks for the hint!

73HankK8DD


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Re: [Elecraft] Subreceiver

2008-12-17 Thread d.cutter
When buying new filters, can one specify the offset required?

David
G3UNA

 Bill W4ZV btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote: 
 

  
  
 
 It depends on how much you plan to use it in contests.  If you are a
 *serious* SSB/CW contester who plans to use a KRX3 during contests, you
 probably need both the 1.8 and 0.5.  If not, you don't need extra filters. 
 If you do plan to add a 500 to the KRX3 for diversity use, you should note
 the offset of your existing 0.5 and attempt to get one close to it.  It's
 not critical that 500 offsets be perfectly matched...just within ~50 Hz and
 then set the common offset to the approximate midpoint.  
 
 BTW my 200 in Main and 500 in Sub differ by 130 Hz in offset, yet I notice
 no beating when using that combination.  However my case may be unique and
 you should always use matched offsets for identical filters.
 
 Beware...once you use true diversity, you will never want another rig
 without it!
 
 73,  Bill
 
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RE: [Elecraft] K3: Date and Time Problem

2008-12-17 Thread Bill W4ZV



Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
 
 I've not seen that myself, Gerry. Since you know it's not shorted, suggest
 you:
 
 1)  Check power at the holder terminals and not just across the battery?
 If
 you have the KRX3, it's not too hard to accidentally slip the battery
 shield
 in between the battery and the contact, effectively disconnecting the
 battery from the rig.
 

Since Gerry had the problem before the KRX3 was installed, I doubt it's the
battery shield (which is added as part of the KRX3 installation).

If Ron's suggestions don't work, I would then try Parameter Initialization
on page 61 of the latest (Rev D) manual.  BE SURE TO FIRST SAVE YOUR CURRENT
CONFIGURATION using the K3 Utility before doing EE INIT.  You can then use
the K3 Utility to RESTORE it after the reset.

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 S meter and AGC on/off

2008-12-17 Thread Steven . Zabarnick

One unique feature of the K3 is that the S meter operates even when AGC is
turned off. Lately I've taken to operating often with AGC off to maximize
weak signal performance (using the RF gain to control volume), but have
noted that the S meter reading is a strong function of whether AGC is on or
off. When AGC is off the S meter readings are lower, while when AGC is on
the readings are higher by about 2 or 3 S units. This is with the RF gain
in the full clockwise position.

My K3 S meter is uncalibrated and operating using the default OF and SC
configuration settings.

Any thoughts on why the meter reads differently between AGC on and off?

Steve N9SZ
K3 1672

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 No 133

2008-12-17 Thread W6NEK

Keith, you can start here:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm 


Best 73,
Frank - W6NEK

- Original Message - 


From: Keith Bainbridge vk...@arach.net.au
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 17, 2008 5:44 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 No 133



Ok I've been very busy enjoying my K3 for almost one year now !!
( serial No 133)  It's an amazing radio.
I've just started to pay creedence to the need to update/modify/ get 
help for my radio.
What do I have to do to  bring it up to date, I dont mean software 
updates as I am on the ball there, but should I be asking Elecraft for 
any mod kits etc?
I've ordered two more K3's for our club ( VK6ANC) which are in Customs 
here as we speak which will be fully up to date I would imagine but what 
about my old girl !

Thanks! and Merry Xmas
Keith VK6XH


--
Keith
VK6XH / VK6DXR
Chairman WIA VK6 Advisory Committee.
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6ANC
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[Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

2008-12-17 Thread Julius Fazekas
Tony,

There is a bunch of info online that addresses your question. Look for W3NQN 
filters, notch filters, http://www.n6rk.com/loopantennas/pacificon.pdf , coax 
stubs, VP6DX presentations, ICE, CQ-Contest reflector. 

From what I've read and talked with others about, it's a rare situation that 
you would not need something even at LP levels. HP it's pretty much a given. 
The biggest decision you may have to make is what will work for you... Oh and 
how much time and/or money to put into getting it right.

One could argue that with all the RF floating around most neighborhoods, band 
pass filters are a definite plus for weak signal work on the low bands.

Too, check out the YCCC, and other big contest group or station, websites for 
ideas about what works and what does not.

73,
Julius


Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

Wayne,
To carry this one step more, what about when I am running multiple K3's on
different bands at the same time? Do you recommend to use external receive
bandpass filters on the receive lines if I am using receive antennas on  the
Receive Antenna and/or Aux input?
And also use transmit bandpass filters on the transmit antenna input when I
am using the transmit antenna for both receive and transmit?


Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
TnQP http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

2008-12-17 Thread Jerry Flanders
I have been using SO2R in some of the RTTY contests for several years 
now. When I first set it up I was concerned about blowing the front 
end transistors in my (then) paired ICOM 756PRO radios. It occurred 
to me that I could simply measure RF voltage coming back in from the 
other antenna when under full power and verify that I was below the 
voltage that might damage the input devices. I made up a simple 50 
ohm loaded diode probe for the measurements with my DVM.


The usual techniques of stubs and filters, along with antenna 
separation of apprx a hundred feet, yielded worst-case voltages of 
around 300 mv with 1000 watts tx'ed on the other antenna. I assumed 
this could easily be tolerated by the radios and so far this has 
proven correct through 3 generations of different pairs of radios.


I would recommend this technique of actually measuring the incoming 
voltage, then use common sense as to what levels are 
tolerable.  Yesterday Wayne gave some guidance on tolerable levels 
with the K3, removing some of the guesswork.


Jerry W4UK



Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

Wayne,
To carry this one step more, what about when I am running multiple K3's on
different bands at the same time? Do you recommend to use external receive
bandpass filters on the receive lines if I am using receive antennas on  the
Receive Antenna and/or Aux input?
And also use transmit bandpass filters on the transmit antenna input when I
am using the transmit antenna for both receive and transmit?


Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group


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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Julian, G4ILO



André Santos wrote:
 
 
 The actual output level (or amplification) for some reason is well below
 the standard for line outs. Elecraft should address this problem.
 
 

That may or may not be the case but it is more than ample to drive a sound
card input. To drive my sound card without overload I only need the line out
level set to about 4. The problem is worse for those who use laptops because
most new laptops appear not to have a line input at all, only a microphone
input which of course is a lot more sensitive and requires even less signal
from the K3.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
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[Elecraft] Subreceiver

2008-12-17 Thread Jon K Hellan

I wasn't really planning a subreceiver now, but we'll be visiting the U.S. 
around easter. If the backlog keeps clearing,
I just might be able to bring one home, avoiding 25% VAT plus expensive freight 
to Europe in a legal manner.
(Not buying a subreceiver at all will save even more money :-) ).

My K3 has 3 filters - 2.7, 1.8 and 0.5. How much sense would it make to order a 
subreceiver with just the standard
filter?

73
Jon LA4RT


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 No 133

2008-12-17 Thread Bill W4ZV


What do I have to do to  bring it up to date, I dont mean software 
updates as I am on the ball there, but should I be asking Elecraft for 
any mod kits etc?



http://www.elecraft.com/K3/k3_app_notes.htm

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] WTB/Trade TS-680S or similar

2008-12-17 Thread Niel Skousen

Hi Guys,

I'm looking for an older HF/6m rig for a friend.   Budget is very  
limited on this.   Looking for something like an older TS-680 or  
similar...


Anybody got something collecting dust that we can negotiate on ??

Thanks all, Happy Holidays

Niel
WA7SSA
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Re: [Elecraft] Subreceiver

2008-12-17 Thread Bill W4ZV

On Wed, Dec 17, 2008 at 10:14 AM, d.cutter (via Nabble)
ml-user+39197-312096...@n2.nabble.com wrote:
 When buying new filters, can one specify the offset required?

If you pay the additional $30 fee, I'm sure Elecraft can do that.  I
took my chances with my KRX3 unit and the 500s just happened to match.
 That's probably because they came from the same batch but you might
not be as lucky.  However if the offsets are within ~50 Hz for 500 Hz
filters, there should be no problem setting both filters to the
midpoint.  For 2.7ks, even larger offsets could be tolerated due to
the much wider bandwidth.

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

2008-12-17 Thread Jay Bromley

http://www.pvrc.org/~n4zr/Articles/simple_protection_for_the_fledgl.htm

Here is a link that may help?  It has been posted here before.

73 de jay/w5jay..




I have been using SO2R in some of the RTTY contests for several years now. 
When I first set it up I was concerned about blowing the front end 
transistors in my (then) paired ICOM 756PRO radios. It occurred to me that 
I could simply measure RF voltage coming back in from the other antenna 
when under full power and verify that I was below the voltage that might 
damage the input devices. I made up a simple 50 ohm loaded diode probe for 
the measurements with my DVM.


The usual techniques of stubs and filters, along with antenna separation 
of apprx a hundred feet, yielded worst-case voltages of around 300 mv with 
1000 watts tx'ed on the other antenna. I assumed this could easily be 
tolerated by the radios and so far this has proven correct through 3 
generations of different pairs of radios.


I would recommend this technique of actually measuring the incoming 
voltage, then use common sense as to what levels are tolerable.  Yesterday 
Wayne gave some guidance on tolerable levels with the K3, removing some of 
the guesswork.


Jerry W4UK



Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Re: Question re K3 diversity reception

Wayne,
To carry this one step more, what about when I am running multiple K3's on
different bands at the same time? Do you recommend to use external receive
bandpass filters on the receive lines if I am using receive antennas on 
the

Receive Antenna and/or Aux input?
And also use transmit bandpass filters on the transmit antenna input when 
I

am using the transmit antenna for both receive and transmit?


Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group


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[Elecraft] Halted by tiny screws

2008-12-17 Thread Benson
I was making good progress with my K3/10 kit until I got to the front 
side of the front panel. There are two standoffs that require two 2-56 
1/4 screws that I don't have... they're sending them from Aptos with 
apologies but I'm on the east coast  :(
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Date and Time Problem

2008-12-17 Thread W1GD
Ron,
Thanks.  I decided to take the top and left side covers off to try to  get to 
the battery without removing the KRX3.  I managed to pull the  battery out 
and check it again.  It was OK.  After I put  everything back together, the 
date 
and time started working normally.   There didn't seem to be anything in the 
battery holder to keep it from making  good contact.  This was a problem 
before I installed the KRX3 (and the  battery cover) so I really don't know 
what 
could have gotten in there.  But  it's all working now.  Thanks for giving me 
the incentive to take things  apart andcheck the battery connection!
 
73,
Gerry, W1GD
**One site keeps you connected to all your email: AOL Mail, 
Gmail, and Yahoo Mail. Try it now. 
(http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dpicid=aolcom40vanityncid=emlcntaolcom0025)
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[Elecraft] re: Halted by tiny screws

2008-12-17 Thread Benson
Radio Shack is supposed to have an assortment of 2-56 so I'm off to find 
them.


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Re: [Elecraft] re: Halted by tiny screws

2008-12-17 Thread Jack Smith
A good hobby shop catering to the model aircraft builders should have 
2-56 hardware.


Jack K8ZOA


Benson wrote:
Radio Shack is supposed to have an assortment of 2-56 so I'm off to 
find them.




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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread André Santos

Paul, Jim and everybody else:

The discursion about mVs has been excellent and pretty much instructive but
all I'd like to know is why I can use my handheld Marantz recorder with
every single radio in my shack that has a line level audio output but I
can't use it with my K3!

There is something else: when I plug a stereo cable from the k3's line out
to the recorder's line in I have to change the recorder's input settings to
MONO because with STEREO there is signal only on the left channel. Ok, the
right channel is supposed to be used by the sub-receiver. But what if the
sub-receiver is not installed?

Just as additional info, I have here a Eton E1 receiver and it has line
level out/in. It's manual (specifications) says: 

Line Audio Output: 300 mV, 1K ohms for each output (left/right).
Line Audio Input: 300 mV, 47K ohms.

73s

André, PT7AT


Matt Zilmer wrote:
 
 Thanks, both Paul and Jim for this information.  Very useful and I'll
 update my knowledge base with it!
 

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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 19:38:34 -, David Cutter wrote:

600ohms still seems to be the practice for ship and aircraft intercoms that 
I've come across recently.

Maybe, maybe not. Often the people the write the data sheets are marketing 
dweebs, and have no technical background. 

I don't know anything about aircraft electronics practices. My observations 
are based on actual measurements of input and output impedances, and/or 
studying the schematics. 

Often, a data sheet says 600 ohms and all that they mean is that the output 
stage can be loaded with 600 ohms and meet its specs. When you measure it, 
you find a 100 ohm output impedance. Often, a data sheet will say 600 ohms 
because the marketing dweeb (or even the engineer) thinks that pro stuff is 
600 ohms. It is not, and has not been since the days when tubes ruled. 

It's also common for engineers in industries unrelated to audio (like RF and 
vdieo) to apply transmission line methods to audio. That, of course, is 
completely inappropriate. The only audio circuits that are long enough to 
behave as transmission lines are VERY long telephone lines. At audio 
frequencies, the characteristic impedance of ANY practical transmission line 
is complex (that is, R + jX), and varies widely with frequency. There's a 
tutorial about this on my website. 

73,

Jim K9YC 


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Re: [Elecraft] LINE OUT output too low?

2008-12-17 Thread Jim Brown
On Wed, 17 Dec 2008 16:21:43 -0800 (PST), Andr+ª Santos wrote:

why I can use my handheld Marantz recorder with
every single radio in my shack that has a line level audio output but I
can't use it with my K3

Pull up the schematics on the internet and study how the jacks are wired. 

73,

Jim K9YC



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[Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

2008-12-17 Thread Ed Gray W0SD

For those now or in the future wanting to setup the PK-232 with the K3
using FSK here is the information.  I would think you could do this very
similarly for the Hal and  other TNC'S.  Of course the specific wiring 
would be different but the same general hook up should work.  This set 
up does not use the computer sound card at all.


First you need a software program to control the PK-232 or the TNC you
are going to use.  I used Writelog but there are other software programs
that will work.

The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your 
computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. 
That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer.  There is 
absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card.


The K3 should be set to FSK D, see page 31 of the K3 manual revision D1.
Next you should be sure your software program is set up for the same
tone and shift that you have the K3 set to.  On the K3 activate pitch
and set it accordingly.  Most common would be 2125-170 which is what I
have Writelog set at.

From the K3 run an audio line from the line out to the Radio 1 or Radio
2 RX input on the PK-232.  This jack is hooked respectively to the same 
place as J4 or J6  which is the 5 pin flat connector.  I would suggest 
using Radio 1 and running an audio cable from the K3 line out to J3 
which is the Radio 1 RX input.  The K3 end is a sterio plug and the 
PK-232 is a mono plug. On the K3  go ahead and use a stereo cable and 
plug it into the K3 line out.  On the PK-232 end of this cable cut off 
the stereo plug and solder on a mono plug.  The tip from the stereo plug 
should be hooked to the tip of the mono plug which will be the left 
channel.  This will be the K3 audio.  The ring(one next to the tip) 
would be the SUB so just leave it unhooked and hook the barrel from the 
stereo plug to  the ground of the mono plug.  Go to the K3 config:Line 
out.  I set it for about about 25.  Remember the K3 manual is talking 
about sound card input when they mention 10 and here we are talking 
about input into the PK-232. The PK-232 manual says to have at least 200 
mv RMS of receive audio. Using my scope and then calculating RMS I came 
up with the setting of 25 to get 200 mv RMS.  It is better to be a 
little low than too high so you don't have distortion.


For FSK transmit you need to hook the PK-232 FSK keying which is pin 1
of the DIN plug J7 to Pin 1 FSK Input of the K3 accessory plug.  You
hook the ground, Pin 2 of J7 to Pin 5 of the K3 accessory plug. J7 on
the back of the PK-232 is labeled so that is easy.  The K3 accessory 
jack information is on page 18 of the K3 manual revision D1.


Be sure and note that the picture you are looking at in the K3 manual of
the accessory jack is the radio pin out and not the plug on the cable
you are making so be careful to use the correct pins. I just took a
Video cable and cut the female connector off and used the appropriate
wires to hook to the PK-232. The extra wires can be folded back and cut
to different lengths and heat shrink tubing put over them so no wires
can short to each other.

From J4 on the PK-232 which is the 5 pin flat connector hook up the PTT
line Pin 5 to the K3 accessory plug pin 4.  This should complete the FSK 
setup for the K3 with the PK-232.


Ed W0SD




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

2008-12-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Ed,

I would highly recommend that you use a bare 15 pin connector rather 
than a video cable.  There are only 2 wires required, FSK IN and Ground.
The video cables (cut off defunct monitors) that I have encountered have 
several pins connected together which will tie together those pins on 
the K3 ACC connector - can create some operational anomalies.
I don't recall which pins are tied together, but the standard video 
cable pinout should be available somewhere on the internet, and Google 
can find it easily.


73,
Don W3FPR

Ed Gray W0SD wrote:

For those now or in the future wanting to setup the PK-232 with the K3
using FSK here is the information.  I would think you could do this very
similarly for the Hal and  other TNC'S.  Of course the specific wiring 
would be different but the same general hook up should work.  This set 
up does not use the computer sound card at all.


First you need a software program to control the PK-232 or the TNC you
are going to use.  I used Writelog but there are other software programs
that will work.

The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your 
computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case 
Writelog. That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer.  
There is absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card.


The K3 should be set to FSK D, see page 31 of the K3 manual revision D1.
Next you should be sure your software program is set up for the same
tone and shift that you have the K3 set to.  On the K3 activate pitch
and set it accordingly.  Most common would be 2125-170 which is what I
have Writelog set at.

From the K3 run an audio line from the line out to the Radio 1 or Radio
2 RX input on the PK-232.  This jack is hooked respectively to the 
same place as J4 or J6  which is the 5 pin flat connector.  I would 
suggest using Radio 1 and running an audio cable from the K3 line out 
to J3 which is the Radio 1 RX input.  The K3 end is a sterio plug and 
the PK-232 is a mono plug. On the K3  go ahead and use a stereo cable 
and plug it into the K3 line out.  On the PK-232 end of this cable cut 
off the stereo plug and solder on a mono plug.  The tip from the 
stereo plug should be hooked to the tip of the mono plug which will be 
the left channel.  This will be the K3 audio.  The ring(one next to 
the tip) would be the SUB so just leave it unhooked and hook the 
barrel from the stereo plug to  the ground of the mono plug.  Go to 
the K3 config:Line out.  I set it for about about 25.  Remember the K3 
manual is talking about sound card input when they mention 10 and here 
we are talking about input into the PK-232. The PK-232 manual says to 
have at least 200 mv RMS of receive audio. Using my scope and then 
calculating RMS I came up with the setting of 25 to get 200 mv RMS.  
It is better to be a little low than too high so you don't have 
distortion.


For FSK transmit you need to hook the PK-232 FSK keying which is pin 1
of the DIN plug J7 to Pin 1 FSK Input of the K3 accessory plug.  You
hook the ground, Pin 2 of J7 to Pin 5 of the K3 accessory plug. J7 on
the back of the PK-232 is labeled so that is easy.  The K3 accessory 
jack information is on page 18 of the K3 manual revision D1.


Be sure and note that the picture you are looking at in the K3 manual of
the accessory jack is the radio pin out and not the plug on the cable
you are making so be careful to use the correct pins. I just took a
Video cable and cut the female connector off and used the appropriate
wires to hook to the PK-232. The extra wires can be folded back and cut
to different lengths and heat shrink tubing put over them so no wires
can short to each other.

From J4 on the PK-232 which is the 5 pin flat connector hook up the PTT
line Pin 5 to the K3 accessory plug pin 4.  This should complete the 
FSK setup for the K3 with the PK-232.


Ed W0SD


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

2008-12-17 Thread Ed Gray W0SD

Don,
http://pinouts.ws/db15-vga-pinout.html  shows the pin out and I don't 
see any pins connected together unless the grounds are common.  I did 
check  a lot of pins with the DMM but I did not find any in common but I 
did not check each and everyone.  I will do that.  Anyway your point is 
well taken as running 3 wires as PTT is also required makes more sense 
than having all the extra although the molded plug is nice for reliability.


Ed W0SD

Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ed,

I would highly recommend that you use a bare 15 pin connector rather 
than a video cable.  There are only 2 wires required, FSK IN and Ground.
The video cables (cut off defunct monitors) that I have encountered have 
several pins connected together which will tie together those pins on 
the K3 ACC connector - can create some operational anomalies.
I don't recall which pins are tied together, but the standard video 
cable pinout should be available somewhere on the internet, and Google 
can find it easily.


73,
Don W3FPR

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[Elecraft] 2/56 screws

2008-12-17 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
You didn't say where on the east coast, but try McMaster.com.  They
have them in stock.  No minimum $, fast shipping.  They are in NJ (me
too).  Order it today, have it tomorrow.  A box of 100 runs around $2
- $3 depending upon the length.  Worth it!

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

2008-12-17 Thread Richard Ferch
Ed Gray said:

 The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your 
 computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. 
 That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer.  There is 
 absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card.

Actually, if you want the best of both worlds you can run an audio cable
between the PK-232 or the radio and the computer's sound card line in jack,
and use MMTTY as a second decoder. If you have room on your computer
monitor's screen, you can watch both decoders (PK-232 and MMTTY) running in
parallel - sometimes one copies when the other doesn't. I haven't done this
with the K3 yet, but I have used this trick with other radios. You can
either use a Y-connector at the radio or the PK-232, or if you connect the
radio's line out to the PK-232's 5-pin connector (J4), you can connect a
cable between the PK-232's phone jack (J3) and the sound card (the audio
inputs on J3 and J4 are connected directly together, so in effect there is a
Y-connector inside the PK-232).

In addition to giving you two decoders, this also lets you use MMTTY's
crossed-ellipse X-Y tuning display, which you may prefer to the PK-232's LED
tuning indicator. You can configure the MMTTY X-Y display to rotate in the
same direction as the radio's tuning knob, which seems to simplify the
hand-eye coordination process while tuning in signals.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

2008-12-17 Thread Ed Gray W0SD
After reading the various posts on the K3 ACC DB15 it seems to be much 
better practice to use Cat cable or some twisted pair wire and solder to 
a bare DB15 as Don and others have suggested so I have ordered some 
tonight.  The best source I found was L-COMM. I have added this for 
those doing a search for this topic will see this excellent suggestion 
and can make an informed decision.


Thanks, Don and others!

Ed W0SD

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Re: [Elecraft] AL-811H Amp and K3

2008-12-17 Thread Allan Bacon
To confirm what I think you are saying here is?

RCA plug on a wire from the K3 KEY OUT (RCA/Phono) to the RELAY RCA on the Amp ?

Thus keying the K3, also keys the amp?

73,
Al
W6GBG


- Original Message 
From: NZ0T n...@cox.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 8:50:40 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] AL-811H Amp and K3


David,

I run the Al-811 (3 tubes otherwise the same as the 811H) with my K3 and
interface is very easy.  There is no need to use ALC just adjust the K3
power output so you are not overdriving the amp.  With my setup that's
around 60- 70 watts out.  You just need a simple cable with RCA plugs as the
keying line and you are good to go.

GL and 73,

Buill NZ0T


David Wilburn wrote:
 
 I will be picking up an AL-811H soon.  I was first licensed in 2001 
 and I have never had an amp.  The 811 requires a 15ms delay, and I 
 noticed that the firmware now supports up to a 20ms delay, so I should 
 be good there.
 
 The 811 documentation talks quite a bit about the use of ALC, and the 
 K3 documentation talks quite a bit about NOT using ALC.  I'm not sure 
 where to go with this.  Anyone using a K3 with an 811?  Do I need to 
 use ALC with it?
 
 I am trying to get everything ready for the upcoming contests, so 
 timing is becoming an issue.
 
 The current manual says to see the website to see if you need the mod 
 kit.  The website says to see the mod kit manual, to see if you need 
 to the mod kit.  The manual does not say anything about how to 
 determine if you need the mod kit, so I assume that if -12v ALC is 
 needed, the mod needs to be done.  Is this correct?
 
 I do not see any mention in the K3 documentation about connecting to 
 amps. It looks like the key out is used to key the amp.  The manual 
 says up to 200v DC @ 5A.  The 811 documentation only mentions 12v, and 
 gets grounded for keying the amp.  Do I need any other devices inline 
 for keying the amp?
 -- 
 
 David Wilburn
 NM4M
 http://www.nm4m.com
 K2 - S/N 5982
 K3 - S/N 766
 Latest Firmware
 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 PK-232 FSK RTTY Setup

2008-12-17 Thread Ed Gray W0SD

Rich,

I have read Don AA5AU discussion on this and this is the next thing to 
do now that I have my two K3's wired up for FSK RTTY.  I can do this as 
part of the process in getting ready for the ARRL RTTY Roundup.  I have 
a 24 inch LCD monitor screen so hopefully I can find room. Thanks for 
the excellent suggestion and information.



Richard Ferch wrote:

Ed Gray said:

The PK-232 has a cable from it to a serial COM port port on your 
computer which you need to set up in your software, in my case Writelog. 
That is all you need between the PK-232 and the computer.  There is 
absolutely nothing hooked to the computer sound card.


Actually, if you want the best of both worlds you can run an audio cable
between the PK-232 or the radio and the computer's sound card line in jack,
and use MMTTY as a second decoder. If you have room on your computer
monitor's screen, you can watch both decoders (PK-232 and MMTTY) running in
parallel - sometimes one copies when the other doesn't. I haven't done this
with the K3 yet, but I have used this trick with other radios. You can
either use a Y-connector at the radio or the PK-232, or if you connect the
radio's line out to the PK-232's 5-pin connector (J4), you can connect a
cable between the PK-232's phone jack (J3) and the sound card (the audio
inputs on J3 and J4 are connected directly together, so in effect there is a
Y-connector inside the PK-232).

In addition to giving you two decoders, this also lets you use MMTTY's
crossed-ellipse X-Y tuning display, which you may prefer to the PK-232's LED
tuning indicator. You can configure the MMTTY X-Y display to rotate in the
same direction as the radio's tuning knob, which seems to simplify the
hand-eye coordination process while tuning in signals.

73,
Rich VE3KI

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