Re: [Elecraft] Update on Micro M+ solar charge controller

[Gary W. Marklund]

I've just ordered a M+. I'm using a 7AH 12v gel cell. I would appreciate 
some suggestions for appropriate solar panels for this application.

TNX and 73,

Gary
KJ7RT

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[Elecraft] Update on Micro M+ solar charge controller

[Randy Cook]

In a previous post, I had given a link for a solar array controller  
kit, the Micro M+, from the ARRL Handbook 2007.   The link is now  
obsolete, and a new link to a kit is :

http://www.theheathkitshop.com/page24/page24.html

Thank you to Dr Werner Furlan OE9FWV for finding the error and  
locating the new link.

The Micro M+ seems to work fine with my small solar array and 7.5aH  
gell cells. I have seen low cost controllers at my local Fry's  
Electronics, but I have no idea how well they work.

73
Randy Cook
k6...@arrl.net




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Question

[James Sarte]

My setup is as follows:

Main: 13k, 6k, 2.7k, 500Hz
Sub:  13k, 2.7k, 500Hz

I also have the wide-receive module installed on the sub.  This way the sub
receiver will have broad coverage while the main is strictly relegated to
the amateur bands.  It works quite well as the 13k filter in the sub does
double duty for FM and AM receive.

73 de James K2QI


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Brett Howard
Sent: Thursday, July 09, 2009 1:31 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Filter Question

Ok so I'm curious if I'll be able to do what I'd like.  I'd like to
setup my K3 for maximum flexibility.  At the moment I have these
filters.   

2.8Khz
1.8Khz
1Khz
250Hz

These 4 filters are duplicated in the lower 4 slots of both receivers.
I'd like to have the ability to do AM and FM both TX and RX in this
radio.  Can I add the AM filter and KBPF into the main RX and then put
the FM filter into the KRX3?

I'm hoping that I can then use the MainRX for broad frequency coverage
and AM broadcast receive.  Then if I ever want to do FM work I simply
have to use the sub receiver to do so.  Will TX through the FM filter
work with it in the sub RX...  To the best of my knowledge it appears
that I can set the rig up in this fashion but that doesn't always mean
it will work how I expect it to.  

Am I all wet here?

Thanks

~Brett

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Filter Explanation for Dummies

[Burke Jones]

Okay, that is exactly what I was looking for.  I might need to revist the
manual and the part about setting the sidetone frequency.  I can't remember
what I did.

Thanks!

Burke
http://N0HYD.com 

On Sat, Jul 11, 2009 at 11:08 PM, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU <
le...@wa5znu.org> wrote:

> Burke,
> There are two issues:
>
> 1. When you set the sidetone frequency in the KX1 menus, you are also
> choosing the offset at which you hear received signals.
> So if you set it to 600 Hz, you'll be right on frequency with the other
> station when the signal you hear is a 600 Hz tone.
> You can match this tone by ear by goign back to the menu to StP or StL
> (better since it doesn't accidently change StP) and listening for the same
> pitch, within about 10 Hz. Once you get on the same frequency, turning the
> filter down to about 1 Khz will cut out most of the QRM and QRN and will
> give you a pleasant listening experience.  If you're off frequency, the
> received signal will fall outside the filter passband and you'll be treating
> it as you would a QRM or off-frequency station, and it will be attentuated.
>
> 2. If you turn the filter below 1 Khz, and more prominently, below 500 Hz,
> the center frequency of the filter itself shifts down a bit, so you may need
> to re-tune slightly to get the signal back to full strength.  Unfortunately,
> if you do this, you'll also be shifting your transmit frequency, so you can
> use the RIT feature of the KX1 just to shift the received frequency and
> leave your transmit frequency alone.  You probably won't need to do this
> unless you need to crank the filter way down, as in a contest, or with a
> very noisy band.  So you can safely ignore this for now and use the filter
> at about 1 Khz until you feel the need to learn more.
>
> Does this answer your question, or do you have a different issue that I've
> misunderstood?
>
> Leigh/WA5ZNU
> KX1 #712
>
>>  Okay, so now that I am actually using my KX-1, I need some help.  I am
>> really a newbie when it comes to this stuff.
>>
>> Can someone please give me an explanation (at a basic level) of how you
>> are
>> actually supposed to use the filter on the KX-1?
>>
>> If I am listening to a signal, and then turn the filter, I seem to lose
>> the
>> signal.  Is this because I am not tuned exactly to that signal?
>>
>> Thanks for being patient, someday it will all make sense.
>>
>> Burke Jones
>> N0HYD
>> http://N0HYD.com  
>> Olathe, KS
>> _
>>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Filter Explanation for Dummies

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU]

Burke,
There are two issues:

1. When you set the sidetone frequency in the KX1 menus, you are also 
choosing the offset at which you hear received signals.
So if you set it to 600 Hz, you'll be right on frequency with the other 
station when the signal you hear is a 600 Hz tone.
You can match this tone by ear by goign back to the menu to StP or StL 
(better since it doesn't accidently change StP) and listening for the 
same pitch, within about 10 Hz. 
Once you get on the same frequency, turning the filter down to about 1 
Khz will cut out most of the QRM and QRN and will give you a pleasant 
listening experience.  If you're off frequency, the received signal will 
fall outside the filter passband and you'll be treating it as you would 
a QRM or off-frequency station, and it will be attentuated.

2. If you turn the filter below 1 Khz, and more prominently, below 500 
Hz, the center frequency of the filter itself shifts down a bit, so you 
may need to re-tune slightly to get the signal back to full strength.  
Unfortunately, if you do this, you'll also be shifting your transmit 
frequency, so you can use the RIT feature of the KX1 just to shift the 
received frequency and leave your transmit frequency alone.  You 
probably won't need to do this unless you need to crank the filter way 
down, as in a contest, or with a very noisy band.  So you can safely 
ignore this for now and use the filter at about 1 Khz until you feel the 
need to learn more.

Does this answer your question, or do you have a different issue that 
I've misunderstood?

Leigh/WA5ZNU
KX1 #712
> Okay, so now that I am actually using my KX-1, I need some help.  I am
> really a newbie when it comes to this stuff.
>
> Can someone please give me an explanation (at a basic level) of how you are
> actually supposed to use the filter on the KX-1?
>
> If I am listening to a signal, and then turn the filter, I seem to lose the
> signal.  Is this because I am not tuned exactly to that signal?
>
> Thanks for being patient, someday it will all make sense.
>
> Burke Jones
> N0HYD
> http://N0HYD.com 
> Olathe, KS
> _

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[Elecraft] K3 noise reduction revisited

[James Sarte]

Has there been any progress on improving the NR algorithm used in the K3?
As it is, it's only helpful perhaps 2% of the time on SSB with the remaining
98% of it remaining off.  I've tried adjusting AGC settings, plus fiddling
with the DSP settings and can never seem to find a happy medium.  

 

Adjusting the receive EQ also has a major impact on the NR's audio quality.
Sometimes I like to boost the midrange and treble areas on receive EQ as it
helps with speech, but with any of the parameters set to a +1 or higher, the
resulting audio out with NR on is terrible.  It sounds almost as if I'm
listening to the audio through a long drain pipe.  

 

Finally, turning on the NR generally tends to attenuate the signal rather
than filter it; a very annoying behavior if you ask me.  This has become
painfully obvious during this weekend's IARU contest.

 

Truth be told, the best DSP application I've used and heard so far has come
from BHI with their ANEM modules.  There are only a few settings to adjust,
but it's very effective in isolating human speech patterns from background
noise.  It runs rings around the K3 when it comes to SSB noise reduction.
I'm hoping that sooner (rather than later), Elecraft can come up with a
firmware fix for the NR.  

 

73 de James K2QI

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[Elecraft] KX1 Filter Explanation for Dummies

[Burke Jones]

Okay, so now that I am actually using my KX-1, I need some help.  I am
really a newbie when it comes to this stuff.

Can someone please give me an explanation (at a basic level) of how you are
actually supposed to use the filter on the KX-1?

If I am listening to a signal, and then turn the filter, I seem to lose the
signal.  Is this because I am not tuned exactly to that signal?

Thanks for being patient, someday it will all make sense.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
http://N0HYD.com 
Olathe, KS
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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
Ah, Oregon weather!  Chilly, wet, grey one day - back to 85 and sunny the 
next.  I had to light a fire this week to warm the house but now I am sitting 
in a t-shirt with the windows open and a breeze gliding through.  There are 
also the hummingbirds which come to look at me.  Then they flash their tails at 
me and zip off.  I imagine they giggle and know I cannot match their aerial 
expertise, they remind me of otters with feathers!  I did have a long talk with 
them (hummingbird time that is) a few days ago but they ignored me like a bunch 
of teenager's with iPods in their ears!  Even though I feed them I gain no 
respect.  Our interaction is absurd but rewarding :)
   Conditions got a little better from Monday to Friday plus we had an active 
sunspot group visit us.  Hopefully on the next rotation it will still be 
visible so I can carry out the telescope and see it through my solar filter.  
This time around the grey weather prevented that so I was only able to view it 
on the Internet.  I did work some comms on 80 meters and 20 meters but none on 
40 meters.  I read there is a new band plan for the band delineating operating 
modes.  I do need to repair a couple antennas and reset their mountings so I 
can use a few more bands.  I can only listen on 160 meters but would like to 
participate thus a longer antenna is in my future.  That would also afford me a 
little gain on 20 meters.

Please join us tomorrow evening.
 
1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP  help)

Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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[Elecraft] K3 #1689 - Audio Problems

[Chuck Jones]

GE,

We are operating in the IARU contest and have had two complete RX 
audio cutouts on both headphones.  We are using front and rear 
headphone jacks so two people can listen.

Another problem I had noticed recently was the front headphones do 
not turn off the internal speaker.  Tried different configurations on 
the speaker setting without correcting the problem.  Do not know 
whether this is a new or old problem.

Unit is completely stock.

Thanks, Chuck N7BV

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[Elecraft] Trade FT-950 for K2

[Hector Padron]

I have a one year old  and as new Yaesu FT-950 in 100% operating condition with 
everything that came from factory,and having the FT-2000 already,I will not 
need this 950 anymore.will trade it even for a fully loaded also in 100% 
working condition K2.
 
AD4C
 


"The difference between genius and stupidity is that genius has its limits".. 
-- Albert Einstein

--- On Sat, 7/11/09, Mike Short  wrote:


From: Mike Short 
Subject: [Elecraft] Trade 857d for K2
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Date: Saturday, July 11, 2009, 11:15 PM


I have a 857d, LDG FT-Meter, separation kit, brackets, manuals, etc. I would
like to trade for a K2.



Mike

AI4NS

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[Elecraft] Trade 857d for K2

[Mike Short]

I have a 857d, LDG FT-Meter, separation kit, brackets, manuals, etc. I would
like to trade for a K2.

 

Mike

AI4NS

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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Rick Asked: So, what magic wire lengths work well on all bands with the T1 ?

Answer: There are no "magic" wire lengths. Since you understand feed point
impedance concerns, the "point" is to choose a wire as close to 1/2
wavelength on the lowest frequency as is convenient and which will still
allow a match with the T1. 

Probably something in the range of 90 to 100 feet or 150 to 175 feet will
work FB.

As you know, the only real important band where 1/2 wave really helps is the
lowest frequency band. Even if you hit an exact multiple of 1/2 wave on the
higher frequency bands, the feed point impedance will be a lot lower than it
is at the 1/2 wave band, so it should load FB. You are probably aware that
as you go up in frequency, the feed point impedance tends to settle down so
something in the range of a few hundred ohms which the T1 handles easily. 

There's nothing "special" about any particular length of antenna as long as
it's long enough for the tuner to match on the lowest-frequency band. All
tuners have some minimum antenna length that's needed because the impedance
of the antenna drops to a very low value as it becomes shorter in terms of
wavelength. For example, many high-end commercial tuners required at least
22 feet of radiator at 2 MHz. There's sure to be some minimum length you'll
need with the T1 on the lowest band you use but "Longer is Better" still
applies, at least up to 1/2 wave. 

Use "counterpoise" wires, especially on the lower frequency bands; one cut
1/4 wave for each band. Probably one 66 feet, one 33 feet, and maybe one 16
feet. If you want perfection, you might include a 30 meter wire if you use
it a lot, but I find little to gain over having the 40/20 meter wires by
doing so. 

--


Rick Asked: Do I need to use a balun with the endfed wire to make it work or
just
feed it direct to the T1 ?

Answer: No. Used on an end fed wire like that, a balun often makes loading
up the antenna easier by introducing some loss. It's sort of a "dummy load"
in parallel with the radiator that limits the impedance excursion so the
tuner has a better chance of finding a good match. So don't bother to throw
away power. Remember that the RF coming out of the BNC connector is
"balanced". The currents in the center and shield are equal and opposite.
You can feed a balanced load at that point without any concern. 

There are two useful things a balun can do: 1) Reduce the impedance of some
antennas to bring them within range of the tuner and 2) Help isolate common
mode currents from the tuner and rig when they are a problem. That's usually
when there's a ground problem. 


-

Rick wrote: Also, I now find that the T1 requires the push of a button
before
starting to transmit, so is there no full autotune mode that cause it to
tune whenever the swr goes above a certain level ?  When changing bands ?
 If not, kind of messes wit hthe idea of having an utotuner in the first
place !  Hmmm ?

The "automatic" part is that it finds the best match automatically, once
it's been commanded to do so. Since you can destroy the tuner - virtually
*any* tuner - by having it tune at full power, the *last* thing you want one
to do is tune "automatically" by launching into a tune cycle when the SWR
runs above some limit. 

You can arrange simple external command either with a single two-conductor
cable (coax is recommended for RF isolation purposes) or by using the data
remote cable with your FT rig. I think you'll find the most comprehensive
answers to your questions about this and other issues relating to the T1
manual in the T1 Owner's manual. You can get it at:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/T1%20owners%20man%20rev%20A2.pdf

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement

[Phil and Christina]

Hi gang,

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet Sunday, 7/12/09 at 1800Z. The net will
start at 14.316 MHz, and QSY if needed.  I will not be able to be there, but
Mark, K4SO, in Virginia will be doing the net control duties. Have a good
one.

73,

Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Dale Putnam]

Hi Rick,

  The length that I used for 80 - 10 was 88 feet.. 85 - 92 will be workable.. 
it isn't critical. Then I had window line from the center down to the T1, the 
length feedline is 44 or half the antenna length, the T1 was then connected to 
the radio by a hand length of coax... and that length of coax was very 
critical.. it had to reach from the T1 to the radio. The T1 is light enough to 
hang from the window line if the antenna is high enough. I used it on 80 - 
20... with fine results on all bands... once the antenna was up.. didn't touch 
it til it came down.. I carried a balun... so could have used it if I needed... 
didn't. 

  The shorter length you refer to... is for 40 - 10. 

Good luck, 

--... ...-- Dale - WC7S in Wy


 

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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[qrp_1]

Gang,
  Let me make myself clear on what it is I expect from the T1 and what my
plans are for it.  First, I do not want resonant antennas for each band -
takes too much time to setup and take down when changing bands.  The T1
will mainly be used for portable radio adventures which I do not get a
lot of time to do and changing antennas each time I change bands is just
too time consuming.  I know all the ins and outs of 1/2 wave end fed
wires and how they are less dependant on ground connections and I do like
them very well for single band operation with my little Small Wonder Labs
single band rigs.  But my FT-817 as you all know is an all band rig and
my plan is to utilize a small autotuner at the feedpoint of a single
endfed wire for all band operation.  I don't mind using radials or
couterpoise wires - thats not a big deal.  But the need to change bands
without changing antennas is the most important aspect to me, and a tuner
that will provide a match automatically is also very important. 
Basically, I want more operating time and less time fiddling with knobs
and putting up and taking down antennas.  Maybe the T1 is not the tuner
for me, I don't know but I do like the size of it which will fit in my
Jump Kit very easily.  I could just switch to my Icom 703 with built in
tuner, but then its a non plus model with no 2,6, or 70cm bands and is
somewhat bigger.  My idea is to have a small packable station that will
do it all in one package and do it very quickly.  I was hoping that the
T1 coupled with my FT-817 would fill the need ?

So, what magic wire lengths work well on all bands with the T1 ?

Do I need to use a balun with the endfed wire to make it work or just
feed it direct to the T1 ?

Somewhare I read about some certain length wires used with the T1 - as I
recall, one was 32.8 feet long and would work 6 thru 80 meters with the
T1 but it did not specify the use of a balun or not.  It also listed 2
other lengths but I don't recall those but do recall that one was for 6
thru 80 meter operation and the other was 6 thru 160 meters.  The one
that went down to 160 meters may have been near 88 feet long - not sure ?
 Anyone know where this info is from my description ?  I thought I had
bookmarked it but cannot find it now.

Also, I now find that the T1 requires the push of a button before
starting to transmit, so is there no full autotune mode that cause it to
tune whenever the swr goes above a certain level ?  When changing bands ?
 If not, kind of messes wit hthe idea of having an utotuner in the first
place !  Hmmm ?

73 - Rick McKee, KC8AON
Southern Ohio - EM88sn
www.angelfire.com/electronic2/qrp
With God all things are possible ~ ><(('> ~
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

The question and discussion has mentioned end fed half wave antennas, 
and has also mentioned that the half wavelength end fed types have a 
high impedance feedpoint that must be dealt with.  There is an 
alternative that is resonant and also end fed.

If you are looking for something end fed that is lightweight and easy to 
put up for the upper bands, consider the classic "Zepp" antenna.  I know 
that the term has been construed in ham usage, and most any dipole has 
been referred to as a zepp antenna.
BUT what I am talking about is "The Classic Zepp" - a half wave dipole 
and a quarter wave piece of parallel transmission line.
YES, if you look at a J-Pole antenna, you can see what I am referring to 
- a J-Pole is nothing more than the classic Zepp antenna that was used 
to trail behind zepplins - lighter than air craft, it does not have to 
be vertical to work well.
You can use that antenna in a straight line, or you can bend it at the 
point where the transmission line ends and the halfwave antenna section 
begins, either configuration works.
It can be easily built from 300 ohm parallel transmission line - either 
solid dielectric or window line, or it can be made of 450 ohm ladder 
line, or even your own constructed parallel transmission line.
Measure out a 3/4 wavelength of the 300 ohm line (do not cut yet, just 
mark it) using your antenna analyzer to determine the electrical length 
or if you really know the velocity factor of the line, you can 'do the 
math' and use a measuring tape.  Divide that length into thirds - the 
length from the end to the first third should be 1/4 wavelength, so cut 
one side of the parallel line there - this is the 1/4 wave transmission 
line.
Now from that cut point, measure a full half wave dipole length (the 
velocity factor of the transmission line does not count for this half 
wave piece, but the insulation will have some effect on the length 
required) - this piece could be regular wire or it can be an extension 
of the transmission line with only one conductor used, take your pick.
You can either feed the open end of the directly from a tuner (the 
impedance will be low), or you can do as is normally done with a J-Pole, 
short the end and tap up on the conductors a bit to achieve a 50 ohm 
match and feed it there with coax.

A J-pole is not only for UHF, they are handy for portable operation too 
- but they are single band antennas, so plan to build and carry one for 
each band you intend to operate.  The size is practical for 20 meters 
and up and depending on the tree situation, 30 or even 40 meters is not 
difficult.

73,
Don W3FPR

qr...@juno.com wrote:
> Hello to the group !
>   I'm Rick - KC8AON, in Southern Ohio.  Just joined the Elecraft group
> because I am thinking of buying a T1 tuner kit to go with my Yaesu
> FT-817.  I have been reading some of the reviews of the T1 on the web and
> most seem to be good reviews except for the enclosure they put the T1 in.
>  I guess they use plastic to save on weight and expense ?  Anyway, was
> wondering if anyone has mounted their T1 in a more robust enclosure to
> offer more protection in the field and if so did a metal enclosure effect
> the tuning properties of the tuner ?  I have a nice small modem case that
> would make a very nice rugged enclosue for the T1 that has an extruded
> aluminum chassis and a slide on vinyl covered steel top.  But again, will
> a metal enclosure effect the tuning properties of the T1 ?  I would
> rather go ahead and build it into the more rugged enclosure as I build it
> than I would to put it in the plastic box that comes with it if it will
> work ok in the metal enclosure.
>
>   Also, does the T1 work well with endfed wire antennas ?  I'm thinking
> maybe non resonant lengths with counterpoise wires to eliminate the high
> Z of half wave length wires so the tuner will not be trying to tune a
> very high impedance and to move the feedpoint to much lower voltage point
> on the antenna.  So, if the T1 will work with end fed wires, what are
> some good lengths that have been proven to work well with the T1 for 10
> thru 40 meters, 10 thru 80, and 10 thru 160 ?  Most of my portable
> operations are 10 thru 40 meters, but I do like to work 60 & 80 meters on
> occasion, and even 160 on scarce occasions.
>   
>
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[Elecraft] Commercial CW for SWLers and Hams

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Sure, with the advent of GMDSS under the new Safety of Life at Sea (SOLAS)
treaties, commercial CW (A1A) transmissions are now rare, but they are still
out there. Good practice and often fun stuff. 

Uruguay broadcasts regular CW traffic lists (messages awaiting ships to call
in for them), weather bulletins and warnings usually near or on the hour at:

4346, 8602, 12750, 17230 kHz

This is a real commercial CW station, not a "museum" station operated for
nostalgia. 

Of course they work in Spanish. Clearly they are serving ships in the South
American waters.

For anyone who has MF capability (below what the Elecraft rigs cover) you
might hear them using A1A or A2A (CW or MCW) on 421.5 kHz.

Speaking of the growing number of "museum" Stations, for those interested in
hearing what "old tyme" Commercial CW work sounded like the Radiomarine
organization in California and others around North America will be
participating in the annual "Night of Nights" activity commemorating the
tenth anniversary of the end of most commercial CW work. The activity
commences at 0001Z 13 July (5 p.m. 12 July Pacific Time).  The following
stations in North America are expected on the following frequencies around
the MF, HF (shortwave) and even on the Ham bands under the Amateur License
K6KPH:

426 KPH KSM 
488 KLB 
500 KPH KSM KLB 
2055.5  WLO 
2063.0 *KLB 
3550.0  K6KPH   
4247.0  KPH 
4343.0  WLO
6474.0  KSM
6477.5  KPH
7050.0  K6KPH
8582.5 *KLB
8642.0  KPH 
8658.0  WLO 
12695.5 KFS 
12808.5 KPH 
12992.0 WLO 
12993.0 KSM 
14050.0 K6KPH   
16968.5 WLO 
17016.8 KPH
17026.0 KFS (after 0430Z)
22477.5 KPH

*tentative

Everyone is invited to call K6KPH on the Amateur frequencies listed and
exchange comments. K6KPH will be operated by commercial CW ops using
standard commercial practices which you may find different from what some
are used to on the Ham bands these days, but don't let that deter you. They
are doing that to demonstrate what smooth, clean CW as practiced by
commercial stations sounds like and will definitely accommodate Hams (and
follow the most "rusty" fists - commercial ops are expert at reading fists
few Hams could understand!) So don't be shy if you get a "QSA 4" instead of
an RST report. (QSA 1-5 is readability from lousy at 1 to perfect at 5) 

On the non-Amateur frequencies you'll hear news bulletins, CQ wheels (where
the station sends traffic lists for ships and invites calls) and, now and
again over the years, you might hear a real QSO with a ship who calls in. 

KPH and KSM are on the California coast at Bolinas and Point Reyes, just
north of San Francisco.

WLO and KLB are at Mobile, Alabama
 
QSL information and more details are available under Night of Nights X at
http://www.radiomarine.org

It has been ten years since "Sparky" hung up his phones for the last time
and "threw the big switch" in shore stations on land and in the radio rooms
of thousands of ships on the high seas, but it'll be a much, much longer
time before he's forgotten.  

Ron AC7AC




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[Elecraft] Battery for K1/KX1

[Bob Jones]

I recently found what appears to be an excellent battery for the KX1  
and K1 in the field:

It's a very compact lithium battery pack rated at 12V 3.5Ah - just a  
little smaller than the KX1 footprint.

I have not used it over many re-charge cycles yet, or measured its  
performance but it does give several hours' operation with the KX1 and  
is a great deal lighter and easier to carry than an SLA type. The  
charger that comes with it looks cheap but works. The battery itself  
is encased in a metal box with on/off switch. I don't notice any heat  
when it's being charged.

I have no commercial ties with the guy selling these on eBay and I  
take no responsibility if you buy one and have any problems. Mine  
works just fine and I thought it may be of interest to other QRP  
enthusiasts.

Details are here: http://www.tinyurl.com/QRPbattery

73 Bob G3YIQ
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[Elecraft] Antennas for K1 field use

[Bob Jones]

I agree that random wires and fishing poles are as good as most  
antennas in the field but a PAC12, or homebrew version of the same,  
needs no other supports and is compact and light. It's an ideal beach  
antenna, where salt water helps minimise ground losses, and I've had  
plenty of transatlantic QSOs with the PAC12 and 3W from a K1 and KX1.  
At least for these circumstances, it's a good compromise. Beaches tend  
to be short of trees!

73 Bob G3YIQ
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[Elecraft] Reminder - UK Elecraft net Sundays 0900 local 3630 KHz

[Dave, G4AON]

The frequency is 3630 KHz plus or minus the QRM.
The start time is 0900 hours local (0800 UTC).

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100, Acom 1000, dipole

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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

[Dave, G4AON]

There are no advantages in using commercial antennas out portable. A 
fishing pole for support and a lightweight dipole, doublet, end fed wire 
or ground plane will work better than most other simple antennas and the 
cost is minimal. The K1 built-in ATU has a fairly limited tuning range 
and will only tune some doublets and end fed wires... especially on 
80m/40m. I've had success across 40/30/20/15 metres with a 51 foot 
doublet and 32 foot of lightweight 300 Ohm ribbon fed via a balun on a 
couple of feet of coax. On 80/40 metres with a longer doublet, it can 
prove troublesome to tune with the standard ATU, however by adding a 
couple of capacitors the tuning range on the lower bands can be 
extended, see: http://www.astromag.co.uk/pdfs/g4aon_kat1_mods.pdf

73 Dave, G4AON
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Unless you're planning to use your T1 as a wheel chock to keep your car from
rolling downhill, I think you'll find the stock case plenty strong. I'm not
sure exactly what plastic they used for the case, but keep in mind that
plastics can be stronger than many metals. (Most military and civilian
aircraft are held together in the air by plastics these days ;-) After
several years, my T1 still looks new. 

Even though toriods are nominally self-shielding, they aren't perfect, so a
metal enclosure might have some deleterious effect. 

You need to push buttons on the T1 to turn it on and initiate a TUNE cycle,
so if it's going to be where you can't reach it, you'll need some sort of
remote control cable. 

The T1 is excellent with random wire end-fed antennas. Like all tuners
today, you do need to avoid exactly 1/2 wavelength long wires. Keep in mind
that's *electrically* 1/2 wavelength, which is not always what the 468/f
formula says because of the effects of the surroundings. 

And there's the challenge with an end-fed wire: you want to be as close to
1/2 wave as you can for maximum efficiency since the power is divided
between the antenna and ground with the most power going to the higher
impedance load, but not so close to 1/2 wave that the T1 can't find a match.
And the closer you are to a 1/2 wave long antenna, the more important it
will be to have a 1/4 wave long wire attached to the case to establish a low
RF voltage on the outside of the case of the T1, the coax connecting it to
the rig and on the outside of the rig itself, to avoid "RF on the rig"
issues.

But don't get too upset if you can't get close to 1/2 wave up in the air for
an end-fed wire. Note that if your radiator is only 1/4 wave long, and your
ground wire is 1/4 wave long, you lose only 3 dB - half of your RF- to the
earth. That may sound like a lot, but many Hams in their home stations would
love to have an antenna that efficient; many, many Hams have much lower
efficiency antennas and get out just fine. Just keep in mind that as you
drop below 1/2 wavelength, the ground becomes more and more important. It's
not a linear effect. The losses start to skyrocket really fast as the
antenna length drops below 1/4 wavelength, so use 1/4 wave as a minimum
length wherever possible.

In this case we're talking about *physical* lengths, not electrical lengths.
Adding loading coils can change the impedance to something easier to match,
but does nothing to help the efficiency of a short antenna. A short antenna
with a loading coil is still a short antenna, Hi! 

73,

Ron AC7AC  



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of qr...@juno.com
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 7:08 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

Hello to the group !
  I'm Rick - KC8AON, in Southern Ohio.  Just joined the Elecraft group
because I am thinking of buying a T1 tuner kit to go with my Yaesu
FT-817.  I have been reading some of the reviews of the T1 on the web and
most seem to be good reviews except for the enclosure they put the T1 in.
 I guess they use plastic to save on weight and expense ?  Anyway, was
wondering if anyone has mounted their T1 in a more robust enclosure to
offer more protection in the field and if so did a metal enclosure effect
the tuning properties of the tuner ?  I have a nice small modem case that
would make a very nice rugged enclosue for the T1 that has an extruded
aluminum chassis and a slide on vinyl covered steel top.  But again, will
a metal enclosure effect the tuning properties of the T1 ?  I would
rather go ahead and build it into the more rugged enclosure as I build it
than I would to put it in the plastic box that comes with it if it will
work ok in the metal enclosure.

  Also, does the T1 work well with endfed wire antennas ?  I'm thinking
maybe non resonant lengths with counterpoise wires to eliminate the high
Z of half wave length wires so the tuner will not be trying to tune a
very high impedance and to move the feedpoint to much lower voltage point
on the antenna.  So, if the T1 will work with end fed wires, what are
some good lengths that have been proven to work well with the T1 for 10
thru 40 meters, 10 thru 80, and 10 thru 160 ?  Most of my portable
operations are 10 thru 40 meters, but I do like to work 60 & 80 meters on
occasion, and even 160 on scarce occasions.

  Now, when using the T1 with the FT-817, is the special control cable
absolutely needed ?  If so, how long is the cable and can it be easily
lengthened ?  My planned purpose for the tuner is to put it at the
feedpoint of the endfed wire when operating portable to eliminate coax
feedline loss between the antenna and the radio, so if the T1 will work
fine without the control cable, that would be much better.  If not, the
cable would need to be at least 8 or 10 feet long to reach the feedpoint
of the antenna where the tuner will be.

Thanks for t

Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Keep in mind that the *only* advantage of the Buddistick or Pac 12 is
convenience. While convenience can justify their cost, don't be seduced by
the idea that somehow they work better than a simple wire. 

Of course those antennas have loading inductors to make them self-resonant
on the bands they're designed for. That's invaluable for rigs with no built
in matching system (antenna tuner), but not needed for your KX1 with its
built in tuner unless you need to run a significant length of coaxial feed
line to the antenna.

As always with an antenna, the more actual wire in the air the better if
you're limited to something less than 1/2 wavelength.

Ron AC7AC

 
-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Frank MacDonell
Sent: Saturday, July 11, 2009 6:50 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

Seems like there are two ways to go. Buddistick vs.
PAC12or random wire with Elecraft T1. Thanks for all
your help in advance. This reflector is a fantastic resource.

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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[Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[qrp_1]

Hello to the group !
  I'm Rick - KC8AON, in Southern Ohio.  Just joined the Elecraft group
because I am thinking of buying a T1 tuner kit to go with my Yaesu
FT-817.  I have been reading some of the reviews of the T1 on the web and
most seem to be good reviews except for the enclosure they put the T1 in.
 I guess they use plastic to save on weight and expense ?  Anyway, was
wondering if anyone has mounted their T1 in a more robust enclosure to
offer more protection in the field and if so did a metal enclosure effect
the tuning properties of the tuner ?  I have a nice small modem case that
would make a very nice rugged enclosue for the T1 that has an extruded
aluminum chassis and a slide on vinyl covered steel top.  But again, will
a metal enclosure effect the tuning properties of the T1 ?  I would
rather go ahead and build it into the more rugged enclosure as I build it
than I would to put it in the plastic box that comes with it if it will
work ok in the metal enclosure.

  Also, does the T1 work well with endfed wire antennas ?  I'm thinking
maybe non resonant lengths with counterpoise wires to eliminate the high
Z of half wave length wires so the tuner will not be trying to tune a
very high impedance and to move the feedpoint to much lower voltage point
on the antenna.  So, if the T1 will work with end fed wires, what are
some good lengths that have been proven to work well with the T1 for 10
thru 40 meters, 10 thru 80, and 10 thru 160 ?  Most of my portable
operations are 10 thru 40 meters, but I do like to work 60 & 80 meters on
occasion, and even 160 on scarce occasions.

  Now, when using the T1 with the FT-817, is the special control cable
absolutely needed ?  If so, how long is the cable and can it be easily
lengthened ?  My planned purpose for the tuner is to put it at the
feedpoint of the endfed wire when operating portable to eliminate coax
feedline loss between the antenna and the radio, so if the T1 will work
fine without the control cable, that would be much better.  If not, the
cable would need to be at least 8 or 10 feet long to reach the feedpoint
of the antenna where the tuner will be.

Thanks for the bandwidth !

73 - Rick McKee, KC8AON
Southern Ohio - EM88sn
www.angelfire.com/electronic2/qrp
With God all things are possible ~ ><(('> ~
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[Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

[Frank MacDonell]

Seems like there are two ways to go. Buddistick vs.
PAC12or random wire with Elecraft T1. Thanks for all
your help in advance. This reflector is a fantastic resource.

-- 
Frank KD8FIP
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power variations in K3 / 3.19

[AB3EN]

I also had issues with this issue and Wayne suggested that I look at my TXG
VCE setting and move it to 1.0 ~2.0 db I have mine set to 2.0 and it seems
to help.

73Dan AB3EN


Greg Williams-4 wrote:
> 
> I suggest that you make sure that you have run the "Calibrate 
> Transmitter gain "  in the configuration section of the Elecraft K3 
> Utility.  That fixed an issue I had that was similar to yours.
> 
> Greg VK3VT
> 
> Subject:
> Re: [Elecraft] [K3] Power variations in K3 / 3.19
> From:
> ab2tc 
> Date:
> Thu, 9 Jul 2009 07:35:09 -0700 (PDT)
> 
> To:
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> 
> 
> I have this problem also, not only after power up, but after each band
> change. My favorite workaround is to change mode to data FSK, switch to
> dummy load, then press PTT  for a couple of seconds. Back to SSB and I
> have
> full talk power immediately. 
> 
> 
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> 
> 


-

Dan AB3EN
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Power-variations-in-K3---3.19-tp3231601p3241381.html
Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] MCU LD and K3 Utility

[Peter Chamalian]

Dick, the utility just hangs.  Not Responsive and does not let me do
anything -- change tabs, etc.  It needs a time out to recover in such cases.
I can make it crash and send you the resulting error from Windows if that
will be of help.

Do I just delete that entry?

Pete, W1RM


-Original Message-
From: Dick Dievendorff [mailto:die...@comcast.net] 
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 1:47 PM
To: 'Peter Chamalian'
Cc: 'Elecraft'
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] MCU LD and K3 Utility

If you can, would you describe "blew up" better for me (a private e-mail
would be fine).  I'd like to determine what happened and fix it, if I can.

The K3 Utility retains its information, as Vic described, in the Windows
Registry.  Start Regedit from the Windows start menu "run" box, and then
navigate to HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Elecraft\K3 Utility.  You
may delete the entire key and all the named values, as the K3 Utility
creates this key with default values on each startup if it's not already
there.  The COM port name is part of that information.

Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter Chamalian
Sent: Friday, July 10, 2009 8:21 AM
To: Elecraft
Subject: [Elecraft] MCU LD and K3 Utility

Things are really balled up.  I tried to upload the latest firmware but as I
was checking to see which serial port was connected to the computer, the K3
Utility blew up and in spite of my best efforts to uninstall and reinstall,
when I launch it, it tried to connect to the K3 on a port that doesn't exist
and just hangs and crashes.  I've rebooted, looked for a .ini file that
might be referenced for that bogus port, but I can't find it.

 

This is on a windows machine running XP with all the latest updates.

 

Of course, the K3 is hung up in MCU LD mode and since I can't talk to it,
just sits there.  I've powered down for an hour or more and tried but to no
avail.

 

I am hoping to be active in IARU so this is the last thing I need right now.

 

HELP Please!

 

Pete, W1RM

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 double beep when not connected

[Stewart Baker]

My late parents spent an entire week looking for a trapped bird in their house.
A neighbour found the smoke alarm birdie :-)

73
Stewart G3RXQ
>
> The only beep-beeping I've come across has been laptop PCs left on standby
> warning that their batteries are about to run down. I think some mobile
> phones and VHF hand-helds might do that too.
>
> It's very hard to determine where an infrequent beeping sound is coming
> from. My wife and I were once woken in the night and spent about an hour
> searching for the source of a regular but infrequent beep, which turned out
> to be the (mains powered) smoke alarm telling us that the backup batteries
> (which I didn't even know existed, and which were 6 years old) were about to
> die.
>
> -
> Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
> * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
> * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
> * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html


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