Re: [Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?

[David Y.]

Here in Tucson, The Larson Company (http://www.utilitycamo.com/) is very 
successful making all sorts of "camoflauged" antenna structures.  Fake 
saguaro cactus designs are quite popular.  Unfortunately, this stuff isn't 
cheap!  Disguising cellphone towers is a big part of their business, but 
they do all sorts of exotic things.

Dave W7AQK

- Original Message - 
From: "Bob Nielsen" 
To: "elecraft List" 
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?


> There are similar solutions available from US manufacturers, for
> example:
>
> http://www.utilitycamo.com/
>
> When I lived in Tucson, there was a saguaro cactus cell phone tower
> nearby.  I never could figure out why they went to the expense, since
> there was a telephone pole adjacent to the stealth installation.
>
> Bob, N7XY
>
> On Jul 12, 2009, at 4:21 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> I'm sure it isn't cheap, but who can argue with this antenna in your
>> neighborhood (or even realize it *is* an antenna mast) even though
>> it might
>> be over 100 feet tall?
>>
>> www.envirocom.co.za/products.htm#PINE TREE MAST
>>
>> Unfortunately for us Yanks, they aren't made in the USA AFAIK
>>
>> Ron AC7AC
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] AGC fast recover after a K3 transmission

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Firmware is latest beta.
 
Arie PA3A

-Oorspronkelijk bericht-
Van: guyk...@gmail.com [mailto:guyk...@gmail.com] Namens Guy Olinger
K2AV
Verzonden: maandag 13 juli 2009 3:17
Aan: Arie Kleingeld PA3A
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Onderwerp: Re: [Elecraft] AGC fast recover after a K3 transmission


What version of the firmware are you using?



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Re: [Elecraft] Sunday Elecraft SSB net report 7-12-2009

[Phil and Christina]

Thanks Mark.  Good job!

73,

Phil

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]on Behalf Of Mark C. Killmon
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 2:00 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Sunday Elecraft SSB net report 7-12-2009


Elecrafters,



At the request of Phil, NS7P, I acted as NCS today.



Thanks to all for their patience and assistance as always. I was able to
hold the net on 14.316 due to the consideration of KA7GKN and a group that
were on the frequency, who relinquished it to the net (without request, I
might add) at 18:00Z. Thanks guys.



 The following stations checked in:



N8KJC   Joe IC-7600 Harrison, MI
Joe is interested in the K3, but is not on the Internet and is looking for
specs, options, and other input, as he considers a purchase. He will likely
contact Elecraft for the latest and most comprehensive information.

M0CHK Andy K3 #1701  Wisbech, UK

K0ARO  Kurt   K3 #151Mason City, IA

KA0NCR   Arnie K3 #185Freemont, NEalso
K2 #310

KB0YH   GusK3 #441Denver, CO

W9DVM   Phil K3 #1605  Palm Harbor, FL

KC0CHR/M  Robert  TS-480   Olexa, KS

K5ENS   Keith K3   Rayville, LA
Keith didn't come back with rig details

K8EAG  Gilbert  K3 #99   Ovid, MI
Oldest K3 today

W5YVU Doug K3 #522Houston, TX

8P9HA   Edward K3 #2409  Christ Church Barbados

W8OV   Dave  K3 #3139  Plano, TX
Newest K3 today

KC9JKK Kevin FT-897   Joliette, IL

N7EDK  Ed   K2 #6576  Tuscon, AZ

AD4C Hector  K3 #2192  Palm Beach, FL

W4AKOArno  IC-7700 Marshall, VA
Arno is interested in the K3 and has two close friends with them.



. and K4SO Mark K3 #2861 Nokesville, VA, substitute NCS.



Conditions were slightly better than average, and it was great to have two
DX stations join us. Luckily, I have a fixed yagi for EU to pick up Andy,
M0CHK, since I was beaming west with the tribander. A SE beverage antenna
proved similarly useful for Edward, 8P6HA. Lots of QRN though, as I
experienced yesterday in the IARU contest.



I have picked up a W9XT band decoder to drive the second side of a SixPak
antenna switch, and I will report to the net when it's online. Since it uses
the Yaesu BCD values (Yaesu was there first, I believe), it should function
with the K3  just as my TopTen band decoder does, which is also designed for
the Yaesu. This board is under $20, and a great value for antenna or
bandpass filter switching.



 The net was adjourned at 18:41



73, Mark

www.k4so.com

www.picasaweb.com/kfourso

kfourso.googlepages.com





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Re: [Elecraft] KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected

[ww2r2]

Having made requests of Elecraft at the end of last year for a "eot only
when transverting" from the k3 with no success, I developed the "eot only
when xverting" circuit as part of my auto switching transverter interface
written up at http://g4fre.com/k3vhf.pdf. It will also appear in the
proceedings of the Central States VHF Society Conference happening next
weekend

Dave

WW2R
--

Message: 8
Date: Sun, 12 Jul 2009 10:18:42 -0700 (PDT)
From: "Julian, G4ILO" 
Subject: [Elecraft]  KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Message-ID: <1247419122732-3246434.p...@n2.nabble.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii


I don't have a linear amplifier. I do have a transverter, and I use the KEY
OUT jack to put it into TX. Trouble is, it puts the transverter into TX
whatever band I'm using. For LO stability reasons (not to mention that I can
never remember to switch the transverter off when I'm not using it) I'd
prefer to be able to leave the transverter switched on but only receive a
PTT signal when the VHF band is selected. I think that means I'd need a
circuit that combines the state of DIGOUT0 with KEYOUT-LP, such that it
grounds the transverter PTT input when DIGOUT0 is 0V and KEYOUT-LP is
grounded. Has anyone made something like that?


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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Grant Youngman]

>>
> [snip]
>
> That's very interesting.  I've never seen an Amateur Radio Amplifier
> without a standby switch.  Are you saying that yours doesn't have one?


  You don't really need one so much for an SS amp.  And many amps with  
"instant on" tubes -- like the 3-500Z and others didn't have one --  
SB-200/220 for example.

Grant/NQ5T
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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Your analysis agrees with my experience, Eric. 

The dipole arranged with one leg vertical and one leg horizontal can be very
good for something like field day in which you want to work stations at all
distances from "just down the street" to DX. That horizontal leg will
produce very high angle radiation like any horizontal antenna at low height.
Of course if it's very close to the ground much of the RF will be absorbed
by the earth loss. 

Verticals with a good "ground plane" or efficient ground often fail to
produce well inside a range of several hundred miles, thanks to their lack
of high angle lobes. That's okay for DX chasing but not so good for
something like Field Day unless you're a thousand miles from anyone, Hi! 

Some shortening does have little impact on efficiency from the data I have.
For example, one analysis I have shows that a center fed wire only 1/4 wave
long, end to end, is only about 1.5 dB lower in gain than a full half-wave
center fed wire. 

It's the tiny antennas that are mostly loading coil, like mobile whips for
80 or 160 meters, that really suffer, and it's amazing how well they can get
out in spite of the huge penalty they pay having a lousy (read, "almost
nonexistent") ground! They prove that only a few watts ERP will cover large
distances under the right conditions. 

73,

Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-

Verticals can be very efficient with just one elevated radial.
Of course, such an antenna can be viewed as a dipole, so yes, dipoles are 
good!
Is it better to have one leg of the dipole horizontal at 8 ft or vertical?
My experience is that on dry and rocky ground horizontal is usually better, 
but only by a little, and not by anything close to 30 dB.
There are also big differences in performance depending on distance and skip

angle etc, so the vertical can sometimes work better for an individual path.
Where the ground is wet with salt water I believe the vertical configuration

will win by a good margin (I have no personal experience though), and many 
real-life situations may fall somewhere in between.
A good loading coil doesn't affect efficiency much as long as the antenna 
leg is shortened by less than 50%. On the upper bands it is rather easy to 
avoid loading coils altogether, either in homebrew configurations or using 
the extension rods offered by the commercial makers. However, if a 
horizontal dipole leg is shortened by a coil, it is still the same height. 
If a vertical is shortened, it will have less average height, giving it 
further disadvantage versus the horizontal, but again subject to great 
variations depending on the surroundings and propagation path. It doesn't 
hurt to have the capability to set up alternative configurations to find out

what works best in a given situation.

73,
Erik K7TV

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Re: [Elecraft] AGC fast recover after a K3 transmission

[Radio Amateur N5GE]

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 21:26:11 +0200, "Arie Kleingeld PA3A"
 wrote:

>Worked my K3 in the IARU contest this weekend (PA6HQ 20m cw).
>Performed flawlessly except for
>
>Yes the AGC, and in the following manner:
>
>I am one of thse people who always use AGC slow in CW and in SSB.
>(Please guys, spare me the comments that I have to ride the AGC, that is
>not the issue here.)
>When running in the contest, very strong stations are often followed bij
>very weak stations. After the K3-transmission the AGC starts at the
>point where it was left before the transmission. (Lyle explained that
>before).
>It would be nice if the Gain was reset in a smart way at the end of a
>transmission so I would not miss the first letter of a call when a weak
>station follows a strong one.
>
>By the way, this also stands for SSB.
>
>It was mentioned that the way that the agc is implemented now was the
>best in normal QSO'ing and I agree. But the K3 was built to be top
>performing in heavy contest / pile-up environment. And if the call rate
>is high, a recovered agc at the beginning of a reception looks like a
>fine feature to me.
>
>
>Would be nice if this smart reset for the agc could be implemented in
>the menu?
>Any one say "aye"?
>
>
>Thanks all,
>
>73
>Arie PA3A
>
{snip}

Nay

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432, KRC2
W1 and other small kits.
http://www.n5ge.com

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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Rick, it's the fact that adjacent half wave sections are out of phase that
skews the main lobes toward the far end of the wire. That's why a "long
wire" must be at least 1 wavelength long in order to have at least two
adjacent half wave sections. 

But the gain of a one wavelength "long wire" is only about 3 dBi; only about
1 dB better than a dipole, and the main lobes are still nearly at right
angles to the wire as in a dipole. 

At two wavelengths the main lobes are about 40 degrees from the end and show
a gain of about 5 dBi.

At four wavelengths the main lobes are about 25 degrees off from the ends
and now and the gain is about 6 dBi, and it increases with longer wires of
course.

You can get similar gain from a center fed antenna, but only when each side
approaches several wavelengths. Often such dual "long wires" are arranged in
a horizontal "V" shape to produce considerable gain, or they are extended
into the diamond shape known as a rhombic. With the correct proportions and
angles the lobes from the various sections all add to form one large lobe. 

It's probably better to classify these antennas by their more technical name
of "Traveling Wave Antennas", although at just what dimension in wavelengths
a wire becomes a traveling wave antenna is subjective. 

You didn't mention which books you have, but an excellent one that is very
popular among Hams is "HF Antennas for all Locations" by Les Moxon, G6XN or
any of the ARRL Antenna manuals. Both of these avoid the heavy math often
found in other manuals such as John Kraus' "Antennas" that has become
something of a classic in engineering schools, at least here in the USA, and
they go into these principles in considerable detail.

73,  

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Hmmm... isn't a definition of a "long wire" one in which alternate half
wave
sections are out of phase? [[snip]]

In all the books I've read it says that a long wire is a wire that is one
wavelength or multiples of one wavelength at the lowest frequency and
radiation of a long wire is basically off the ends of such wire.  It has
nothing to do with phase

73 - Rick McKee, KC8AON
Southern Ohio - EM88sn
www.angelfire.com/electronic2/qrp
With God all things are possible ~ ><(('> ~

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Re: [Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Years ago in QST (I think it was) I read an article about a NYC Ham who
worked WAC by loading up the metal fire escape outside his building! 


73,

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
Well, I've been using a Tarheel 100A screwdriver antenna mounted to a tripod
on my balcony.  I live in NYC.  It's small enough to go mostly unnoticed.  I
also have an SB-220 hooked up to it, and it handles the power well.  It's a
compromise antenna, but it works fine considering what I'm up against.  I
worked a Russian and Slovenian station last night on 20m FB with this setup.

James K2QI

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Re: [Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

That's GREAT Bob. Now we just need to get them to come up with some options
at decent prices for Hams...

73,

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
There are similar solutions available from US manufacturers, for  
example:

http://www.utilitycamo.com/

When I lived in Tucson, there was a saguaro cactus cell phone tower  
nearby.  I never could figure out why they went to the expense, since  
there was a telephone pole adjacent to the stealth installation.

Bob, N7XY


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[Elecraft] NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night!

[NAQCC]

NAQCC Sprint Wednesday night!

This coming Wednesday evening will be the monthly NAQCC Sprint for July, 2009.

I will refer you to the proper URL:

http://www.arm-tek.net/~yoel/sprint200907.html

There you will find all the details as to time, frequencies and also a special 
prize.

This month's Special Award goes to the winner of a drawing among the following: 
The one making the highest score in each division and working stations from the 
most different USA call areas (max 12 incl. KL7 and KH6). It's the station 
location, not the call sign number that determines the call area - i.e. W7XXX 
in Florida counts as the 4th call area.

This is a monthly event that caters to the CW veteran, the CW newcomer, 
straight key and bug fans. All are welcome to participate (this includes QRO); 
but you must use QRP power levels to compete for awards.

Come join us and have a real good time!

73 de Dave VA3RJ
NAQCC #0004

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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Report for July 12th & 13th, 2009

[Kevin Rock]

Good Evening,
   Twenty meters was filled with reports of QSB while I was sending reports of 
QSB.  Hmmm... reciprocal reception?  Maybe it can happen :)  There was also 
some noise but it did not sound like thunderstorms here; just an overall layer 
of static.  Conditions on forty meters were not the best.  I dug through the 
noise but could only copy a few calls.  I think I logged everyone who called 
but the noise was high enough so there may have been a few left when I closed.  
   Weather reports were of warm and sunny days unlike my gloom and cold.  I 
better check my fire so it does not go out tonight.  Currently it is raining at 
a temperature of 50 degrees.  Yesterday it was 84 at dinner time but it quickly 
cooled off.  I closed all the windows at bedtime but it still got rather cold 
in here.  According to my forecast I will start seeing sun again by Wednesday 
and the temperatures will rise into the 70s again.  Maybe even 80 by the next 
weekend.  I had reports of 85 in California so they are receiving their normal 
weather.  I am hoping for a good dry season so I can complete some outdoor work 
which requires it.  Now to repair my chainsaw and get back to cutting wood for 
the coming winter.

  On to the lists =>

  On 14050.5 kHz at 2300z:
N0SS - Tom - MO - K3 - 008
K6PJV - Dale - CA - K3 - 1183
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
K6DGW - Fred - CA - K3 - 642
WC7S - Dale - WY - K2 - 4360 QNI #35!!
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
K1THP - Dave - CT - K3 - 686
K4JPN - Steve - GA - K2 - 1422
K4LJ - Eugene - MD
K7SJ - Roger - WA - K3 - 75
N5SM - Scott - TX - K3 - 1802
W1TF - Ty - GA - K3 - 696
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
KL7CW - Rick - AK - KX1 - 798
AD6GI - Chuck - CA - K3 - 355 

  On 7045 kHz at 0100z:
NO8V - John - MI - K3 - 820
N0TA - John - CO - K3 - 994
W0RSR - Mike - CO - K2 - 5767
AB9V - Mike - IN - K3 - 398
W8OV - Dave - TX - K2 - 3139

   If there are any corrections necessary to the above lists please send me an 
email.  Enjoy your week and please send sun and warm weather out West.  Even 
though it is raining the fire danger is rising.  I have never figured that out. 
 Luckily I am surrounded by clear cuts on four sides so if I start a fire it 
will not go far :)  
   Until next week stay well,
  73,
 Kevin.  KD5ONS  (Net Control Operator 5th Class)

-

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Re: [Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?

[James Sarte]

Well, I've been using a Tarheel 100A screwdriver antenna mounted to a tripod
on my balcony.  I live in NYC.  It's small enough to go mostly unnoticed.  I
also have an SB-220 hooked up to it, and it handles the power well.  It's a
compromise antenna, but it works fine considering what I'm up against.  I
worked a Russian and Slovenian station last night on 20m FB with this setup.

James K2QI

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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

[Mike Morrow]

Frank/KD8FIP wrote:

> Seems like there are two ways to go. Buddistick vs.
> PAC12or random wire with Elecraft T1. 

That would be very inaccurate.  HF vertical antennas for field use will almost
*never* have a proper and effective ground system.  Add to that the losses
of loading coils/traps, and one will very certainly find *at least* a 30 dB 
difference,
receiving and transmitting, in side-by-side comparisons between the vertical and
any simple wire resonant dipole.  That means six S-units.  That means a one watt
signal into the dipole will be better than 1000 watts into the vertical!

The installation of a semi-effective ground system for the vertical would 
require
multiple tuned counterpoise wires that are far more troublesome to employ than
just using a simple resonant dipole.  The dipole requires *no* grounding system.
For operation in that very rare environment in which there is nothing to support
the ends of the dipole, I've used two wooden mop handles and some cord with
tent stakes as guys for the poles.

I always use a resonant wire dipole, with in-line insulators and jumpers in each
leg that can be connected to resonate for any ham band from 40 to 10 meters,
inclusive.  It's cheap (less than $25, typically), very light-weight, and easy 
to roll
up and pack away.  Even when used on 40m at only eight feet above ground, it
grossly exceeds the performance of even the most expensive "field" vertical.
(I can send a pdf file with measurments and other details, on request.)

Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

[Erik N Basilier]

Verticals can be very efficient with just one elevated radial.
Of course, such an antenna can be viewed as a dipole, so yes, dipoles are 
good!
Is it better to have one leg of the dipole horizontal at 8 ft or vertical?
My experience is that on dry and rocky ground horizontal is usually better, 
but only by a little, and not by anything close to 30 dB.
There are also big differences in performance depending on distance and skip 
angle etc, so the vertical can sometimes work better for an individual path.
Where the ground is wet with salt water I believe the vertical configuration 
will win by a good margin (I have no personal experience though), and many 
real-life situations may fall somewhere in between.
A good loading coil doesn't affect efficiency much as long as the antenna 
leg is shortened by less than 50%. On the upper bands it is rather easy to 
avoid loading coils altogether, either in homebrew configurations or using 
the extension rods offered by the commercial makers. However, if a 
horizontal dipole leg is shortened by a coil, it is still the same height. 
If a vertical is shortened, it will have less average height, giving it 
further disadvantage versus the horizontal, but again subject to great 
variations depending on the surroundings and propagation path. It doesn't 
hurt to have the capability to set up alternative configurations to find out 
what works best in a given situation.

73,
Erik K7TV

- Original Message - 
From: "Mike Morrow" 
To: 
Cc: 
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 7:19 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antennas for K1 Field Use

> That would be very inaccurate.  HF vertical antennas for field use will 
> almost
> *never* have a proper and effective ground system.  Add to that the losses
> of loading coils/traps, and one will very certainly find *at least* a 30 
> dB difference,
> receiving and transmitting, in side-by-side comparisons between the 
> vertical and
> any simple wire resonant dipole.  That means six S-units.  That means a 
> one watt
> signal into the dipole will be better than 1000 watts into the vertical!
>
> The installation of a semi-effective ground system for the vertical would 
> require
> multiple tuned counterpoise wires that are far more troublesome to employ 
> than
> just using a simple resonant dipole. 


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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Radio Amateur N5GE]

On Sun, 12 Jul 2009 18:28:43 -0500, Richard Thorne
 wrote:

>Kent et All:
>
>Yes thats the easy and simple way.
>
>What I was hoping for was quick band changes without the need for 
>flipping switches.  I'll be running an SG-500 amp and already planned on 
>placing a switch in the ptt line to disable the amp.
>
>Rich - N5ZC
>
[snip]

That's very interesting.  I've never seen an Amateur Radio Amplifier
without a standby switch.  Are you saying that yours doesn't have one?

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806, K3 #1055
XV144, XV432, KRC2
W1 and other small kits.
http://www.n5ge.com

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[Elecraft] K3 - TX gate issue

[Terry Price]

 
Has anyone else noticed some distortion using the tx gate option? I heard it
on a friends' K3 and tested it on mine, while listening on headphones and
the monitor on, after each word or syllable, I hear some distortion or
"crackling" noise. It seems to be when the setting is at 13 or above. I've
heard it on 3 different K3's of different vintages but all running 3.19.

Terry  

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Re: [Elecraft] AGC fast recover after a K3 transmission

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

What version of the firmware are you using?

On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 3:26 PM, Arie Kleingeld PA3A  wrote:

> Worked my K3 in the IARU contest this weekend (PA6HQ 20m cw).
> Performed flawlessly except for
>
> Yes the AGC, and in the following manner:
>
> I am one of thse people who always use AGC slow in CW and in SSB.
> (Please guys, spare me the comments that I have to ride the AGC, that is
> not the issue here.)
> When running in the contest, very strong stations are often followed bij
> very weak stations. After the K3-transmission the AGC starts at the
> point where it was left before the transmission. (Lyle explained that
> before).
> It would be nice if the Gain was reset in a smart way at the end of a
> transmission so I would not miss the first letter of a call when a weak
> station follows a strong one.
>
> By the way, this also stands for SSB.
>
> It was mentioned that the way that the agc is implemented now was the
> best in normal QSO'ing and I agree. But the K3 was built to be top
> performing in heavy contest / pile-up environment. And if the call rate
> is high, a recovered agc at the beginning of a reception looks like a
> fine feature to me.
>
>
> Would be nice if this smart reset for the agc could be implemented in
> the menu?
> Any one say "aye"?
>
>
> Thanks all,
>
> 73
> Arie PA3A
>
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>



-- 
73, Guy  K2AV
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

I beg your pardon - the radiation of an antenna has everything to do 
with the relative phase.
That is what creates gain and cancellation in the radiation pattern.
The phase addition or cancellation on a long wire or any other antenna 
for that matter is what gives rise to the radiation pattern.

A half wavelength antenna will have radiation perpendicular to the wire, 
a full wavelength wire will have 4 lobes each at 45 degrees angle to the 
wire, a 3 wavelength wire will have 6 lobes spaced at 60 degrees (30 
degrees from the wire to the first lobes), a 4 wavelength wire will have 
8 lobes 45 degrees apart, and so forth.  A "V" antenna or a rhombic 
derives its gain in a bi-directional lobe by depending on the 
cancellation and additive effects of two wires and is manipulated by the 
angle between the wires.  I know of no case where the maximum radiation 
is parallel with the wire (off the ends).

73,
Don W3FPR

qr...@juno.com wrote:
> Hmmm... isn't a definition of a "long wire" one in which alternate half
> wave
> sections are out of phase? [[snip]]
>
> In all the books I've read it says that a long wire is a wire that is one
> wavelength or multiples of one wavelength at the lowest frequency and
> radiation of a long wire is basically off the ends of such wire.  It has
> nothing to do with phase
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] For Sale K1-4

[pkhjr]

Price reduced $400 shipped Conus Priority Mail - Will ship world wide for
$400 plus actual shipping Tnx Paul

pkhjr wrote:
> 
> For Sale K1-4 (40,30,20,15), KAT1 tuner, Backlight display, Tilt stand,
> KBT1 Internal battery (not installed).  serial #2194 vs 109.  Manuals for
> radio and all options.  Excellent condition works as it should.  $425
> shipped Conus Priority Mail.  Any questions email k...@yahoo.com or call
> 903-778-2592  Tnx Paul
> 
> 
> 

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/For-Sale-K1-4-tp3202874p3248091.html
Sent from the [K1] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[qrp_1]

Hmmm... isn't a definition of a "long wire" one in which alternate half
wave
sections are out of phase? [[snip]]

In all the books I've read it says that a long wire is a wire that is one
wavelength or multiples of one wavelength at the lowest frequency and
radiation of a long wire is basically off the ends of such wire.  It has
nothing to do with phase

73 - Rick McKee, KC8AON
Southern Ohio - EM88sn
www.angelfire.com/electronic2/qrp
With God all things are possible ~ ><(('> ~
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[qrp_1]

A "long wire antenna" can be fed at any point along its length, not only
at 
one end, [[snip]]

Well, if its fed anywhere except from the end, I would call it something
like a dipole, doublet, center fed zepp, off center fed dipole etc.  But
the true definition of a long wire is a wire that is at least one
wavelength long or multiples of a wavelength at the lowest frequency. 
One that is cut for 40 meters on each half is either a doublet or a
dipole.  Technically speaking of course ! ;-)

73 - Rick McKee, KC8AON
Southern Ohio - EM88sn
www.angelfire.com/electronic2/qrp
With God all things are possible ~ ><(('> ~
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Re: [Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?

[Bob Nielsen]

There are similar solutions available from US manufacturers, for  
example:

http://www.utilitycamo.com/

When I lived in Tucson, there was a saguaro cactus cell phone tower  
nearby.  I never could figure out why they went to the expense, since  
there was a telephone pole adjacent to the stealth installation.

Bob, N7XY

On Jul 12, 2009, at 4:21 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I'm sure it isn't cheap, but who can argue with this antenna in your
> neighborhood (or even realize it *is* an antenna mast) even though  
> it might
> be over 100 feet tall?
>
> www.envirocom.co.za/products.htm#PINE TREE MAST
>
> Unfortunately for us Yanks, they aren't made in the USA AFAIK
>
> Ron AC7AC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Richard Thorne]

Kent et All:

Yes thats the easy and simple way.

What I was hoping for was quick band changes without the need for 
flipping switches.  I'll be running an SG-500 amp and already planned on 
placing a switch in the ptt line to disable the amp.

Rich - N5ZC

K9ZTV wrote:
> Rich . . .
>
> Can't comment about other amps, but running the K3 barefoot (or tuning 
> an external ATU) with the Yaesu Quadra merely requires toggling the 
> Quadra's OPERATE switch off.  Toggle it back on to use the amp.
>
> 73,
>
> Kent  K9ZTV
>
>
> Richard Thorne wrote:
>> Is there a way to turn off the ptt signal to an amp when the TUNE button 
>> is pushed?
>>
>> I want to run high power but I want to disable the amp while tuning an 
>> external antenna tuner. 
> 
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.12/2233 - Release Date: 07/12/09 
> 08:20:00
>
>   
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[Elecraft] A Solution for Antenna-Restricted Hams?

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I'm sure it isn't cheap, but who can argue with this antenna in your
neighborhood (or even realize it *is* an antenna mast) even though it might
be over 100 feet tall? 

www.envirocom.co.za/products.htm#PINE TREE MAST

Unfortunately for us Yanks, they aren't made in the USA AFAIK

Ron AC7AC

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[Elecraft] First 6m WACC, K3s on both ends

[Bill W5WVO]

On Thursday, July 9, I worked Barry, K6RM, portable in Kings County CA, to 
complete the first 6-meter Worked All California Counties (WACC). The final QSO 
was by meteor scatter using WSJT/FSK441, and a K3 was on each end of the 
contact. Many thanks to the Northern California Contest Club for sponsoring 
this award and to Barry K6RM for going above and beyond to make it happen. (He 
lives in Mountain View, 180 miles distant!)

Bill W5WVO
Rio Rancho, NM
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[Elecraft] OT: NW DX Convention in Spokane

[Ken Kopp]

BlankWho's going to the Pacific NW DX Convention in Spokane
August 7-9?  Rose and I will be there.  

As of today (Sunday) the hotel still has rooms available. 
They also allow RV parking for a small fee.

73! Ken Kopp - K0PP
  elecraftcov...@rfwave.net
  http://tinturl.com/7lm3m5
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hmmm... isn't a definition of a "long wire" one in which alternate half wave
sections are out of phase? 

When a two-wire feeder is attached along its length, the half wave sections
on either side will be in phase, not out of phase, due to the out of phase
signal being fed to the radiator. The exception would be, I believe, a
classic Windom with its single wire feeder ("modern" Windom's with two wire
feeders are quite different, being simply an off center fed doublet). 

Back in the 1950's many Hams said they were using a "long wire" that might
be 50 feet long on 80 - not even 1/4 wave. That used to upset the OTs who,
like Geoff, understood a "long wire" to be an antenna long enough - several
wavelengths typically - for its length to add gain and directivity.

Now that I probably qualify an O.T., it's fun to note that some traditions
continue, Hi! 

I consider my 130 foot end fed wire a "long wire" on 14 MHz and higher since
it is 2 wavelengths on 20 and 4 wavelengths on 10. On 80, where it's a half
wave long I refer to it as a Fuchs antenna and on 40 it's a full wave
antenna. Or, if I'm in a hurry, it's just a "130 ft end fed wire..."  

Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-

Rick,

A "long wire antenna" can be fed at any point along its length, not only at 
one end, but at any given frequency the antenna's pattern will change as 
will the antenna's feedpoint impedance as the position of the feedpoint is 
changed. Some schemes such as the Off Centre Fed wire place the feedpoint at

a position where the feedpoint impedance is lowish and similar on several 
bands, allowing the use of a coax feeder, but radiation from the coax feeder

can be a problem if not prevented.

When I was a young ham, a "long wire" had to be at least three or four 
wavelengths in length. They have shrunk in recent years :-)

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


- Original Message - 

>  I do not understand this statement.  How can a "long wire antenna" have
> 2 sides ?  A long wire is fed from one end only, so are you speaking of
> an endfed wire with an equal length counterpoise laying on the ground or
> are you speaking of a doublet antenna fed in the center with a feedline ?
> I do have manual tuners but want something much simpler like and end fed
> wire with an auto tuner for quick band changes in the field - don't want
> to pack something the size of a MFJ-941 tuner into the woods !

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 ON TOP BAND

[Don Wilhelm]

Roy,

That has not been asked in some time now, but the answer is YES - it can 
be done with any 2 band board.  Previously posted instructions are 
copied below.

 > Not quite a full "Elecraft" 160m & 80m board, but you can do it this 
way -
 > order a 2 band board for 80m and any other band, PLUS, order the 
following
 > components (Elecraft has them all except the crystal) - here are the
 > instructions for how I did it: --
 > maybe you can make a deal with someone at Elecraft to ship a ''1 band 
board
 > and the other needed parts"
 >
 > I ordered the following from Elecraft:
 >
 > Capacitors:
 > 2 - E530002  1500 pf capacitor
 > 3 - E530003  2700 pf capacitor
 > 2 - E530005  1200 pf capacitor
 > 2 - E530035  1800 pf capacitor
 > 2 - E530052   560 pf capacitor
 > 2 - E530053   680 pf capacitor
 > 1 - E53005812 pf capacitor
 >
 > Inductors:
 > 1 - E690007   33 uh inductor
 > 2 - E690001  4.7 uh variable inductor (wide tuning slot)
 >
 > Toroid cores:
 > 2 - E680001  T44-1 or T50-1 toroid cores (blue color)
 >
 > I also ordered a 9.800 mHz crystal (HC-49 case 20 pf load 
capacitance) from
 > International Crystal Manufacturing www.icmfg.com.
 >
 > If you are planning to use the K1 ATU with this board, you should 
also order
 > the P1 (3 pin) and P2 (10 pin - 5 x 2) headers from Elecraft.
 >
 > The parts from Elecraft (without the headers) were less than $15 and the
 > crystal was priced at $17.95 - not an unreasonable price IMHO.
 >
 > I assembled the 2 band board with the 80 meter components in the band 2
 > locations as indicated in the instructions - except for L5 and L6 
were left
 > empty at this time.
 >
 > Next, the low- pass toroids were wound with 21 turns (20 inches of 
wire) on
 > the T50-1 (blue) cores, and soldered into the L9 and L10 positions.
 >
 > The 4.7 uH variable inductors were soldered in the positions for L5 
and L6.
 > On the bottom of the board, 1200 pf capacitors were soldered across 
L5 and
 > L6 (the outer pins on the side of the can with 3 pins).
 >
 > The 33 uH inductor goes into the position marked for C13.  Form the leads
 > under the inductor body so that the leads fit into the holes - my 
inductor
 > is parallel with the board and tucked between the bandpass filter cans.
 >
 > Mount the 9.8 mHz crystal at the X1 position and solder the grounding 
wire
 > to the side of the can (or top if you prefer).
 >
 > The remaining capacitors are fitted into the following positions:
 > C1 & C5 - 680 pf
 > C2 & C4 - 2700 pf
 > C3   - 12 pf
 >
 > C11 & C15 - 1800 pf
 > C12 & C14 - 560 pf
 > C21 & C23 - 1500 pf
 > C22- 2700 pf
 >
 > You should now have all the holes filled, and can proceed to align the 2
 > band board following the instructions in the K1 manual.  Mine came up 
with
 > no trouble at all.
 >
 > 73,
 > Don W3FPR



rkavamp...@aol.com wrote:
> Hi all 
> this is GM4VKI and im new to the list .
> I was wondering if anybody has modified a K1 to work on top band  
> particularly 1834 kcs. Possibly by modifying an 80 metre board.
> cheers 
> roy 
> GM4VKI
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmitter Output Problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Rick,

Intermittent operation like that usually means that there is a poorly 
soldered connection somewhere in that K1.  The other thing that will 
often behave similarly is a badly tinned toroid lead.

So take a close look at the soldering.  Do all the solder connections 
taper off to an almost invisible line on both the solder pad and the 
component lead?  If not, that solder connection should be viewed with 
suspicion.  Also look for "balls of solder" on the component leads - if 
the solder looks like a "ball", two things are likely present - 1) too 
much solder was applied, and 2) the solder pad was not adequately heated.

Re-flow the solder with a hot soldering iron - 700 to 750 deg F.  If 
there is too much solder, use solder wick or other means to remove the 
excess.  If the solder fills the thru-plated hole, that is sufficient, 
but I like to see a small fillet around the leads.  Again, the solder 
should flow out entirely to cover the solder pad - if you can see a 
distinct line where the solder stops, that is a suspect connection.

With the toroid leads, examine the solder side - if there is a visible 
ring around the wire, the lead was not properly tinned, remove the 
toroid, strip and re-install.

73,
Don W3FPR

Ricky Robbins wrote:
> Building a K1, thought I was on the home stretch, but I've hit a snag.
>  I was on the transmitter alignment section, page 19 of the K-4
> additional manual, and all went well for 10 Mhz and 7 Mhz.  I switched
> to 21 Mhz and didn't get the two watts out, but got P0.1 (like the
> first steps of the Alignment and Test, Part II on page 46 of the K-1
> manual when the filter board is not installed).  It didn't vary, just
> P0.1.
>
> I checked the "out" menu setting and it had 2.0 watts.  I switched
> bands back to 7 Mhz, and now it only has 0.1 Watt output for tune no
> matter the "out" menu setting; the same for 10 Mhz.  All frequencies
> appear to be within the allowed band (didn't move the VFO knob from
> the starting mid position during this time).
>
> Left it to start typing this question, wanted to go back and look at
> exactly what the display read and all bands but 21 Mhz would now
> output okay -- 21 Mhz still just P0.1.  I went ahead and completed the
> tune-up, skipping 21 Mhz (but starting with the 21 Mhz caps for 14
> Mhz) -- wanted to try the radio out and will be using it on 40 meters
> for now.
>
> Finished the work (speaker, etc) and hooked the rig up through a tuner
> to a dipole tossed into a couple of trees and, for the first time in
> 26 years for me, made a contact (my code skills, even with some
> practice recently, are woefully rusty).  After the QSO I did some
> cleanup and rearranging (included unplugging the K1), then brought it
> back up to try for a second contact; back to no output, if I go into
> tune I get P0.1 on screen, if I try and transmit, no power out.
>
> Any insight would be appreciated; probably (hopefully) something
> simple I'm missing.  First contact was a thrill, hope to get the
> second before another 26 years go by.  :)
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K1 ON TOP BAND

[RKavampsev]

Hi all 
this is GM4VKI and im new to the list .
I was wondering if anybody has modified a K1 to work on top band  
particularly 1834 kcs. Possibly by modifying an 80 metre board.
cheers 
roy 
GM4VKI
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[K9ZTV]

Rich . . .

Can't comment about other amps, but running the K3 barefoot (or tuning 
an external ATU) with the Yaesu Quadra merely requires toggling the 
Quadra's OPERATE switch off.  Toggle it back on to use the amp.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV


Richard Thorne wrote:
> Is there a way to turn off the ptt signal to an amp when the TUNE button 
> is pushed?
>
> I want to run high power but I want to disable the amp while tuning an 
> external antenna tuner. 
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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Rick,

A "long wire antenna" can be fed at any point along its length, not only at 
one end, but at any given frequency the antenna's pattern will change as 
will the antenna's feedpoint impedance as the position of the feedpoint is 
changed. Some schemes such as the Off Centre Fed wire place the feedpoint at 
a position where the feedpoint impedance is lowish and similar on several 
bands, allowing the use of a coax feeder, but radiation from the coax feeder 
can be a problem if not prevented.

When I was a young ham, a "long wire" had to be at least three or four 
wavelengths in length. They have shrunk in recent years :-)

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD


- Original Message - 
From: 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions


>  I do not understand this statement.  How can a "long wire antenna" have
> 2 sides ?  A long wire is fed from one end only, so are you speaking of
> an endfed wire with an equal length counterpoise laying on the ground or
> are you speaking of a doublet antenna fed in the center with a feedline ?
> I do have manual tuners but want something much simpler like and end fed
> wire with an auto tuner for quick band changes in the field - don't want
> to pack something the size of a MFJ-941 tuner into the woods !

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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Filter Explanation for Dummies

[Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU]

Burke,
You probably don't need to change the sidetone pitch.  If you like the 
way it sounds when you're sending CW, then it's probably fine.
Just remember to tune the received signal so it sounds like the sidetone 
pitch and you'll be OK when you crank the filter down to 1KHz or lower.
Below about 500Hz you'll notice some issues and will probably want to 
use RIT, but you can leave that for a later day once you get the current 
issue under control.
If you don't like the sidetone, tap the KX1 menu button and rotate the 
VFO knob until it says StP.  Press and hold the menu button and it will 
show the current sidetone pitch.  Rotate the VFO knob and listen to the 
pitch you like; 600 Hz is a good starting point.  Then tap the Menu 
button to exit.

You might like the one-page KX1 quick reference at 
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KX1%20quick%20ref.pdf
Leigh/WA5ZNU
> Okay, that is exactly what I was looking for.  I might need to revist 
> the manual and the part about setting the sidetone frequency.  I can't 
> remember what I did.
>  
> Thanks!
>  
> Burke
> http://N0HYD.com 
>
> On Sat, Jul 11, 2009 at 11:08 PM, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU 
> mailto:le...@wa5znu.org>> wrote:
>
> Burke,
> There are two issues:
>
> 1. When you set the sidetone frequency in the KX1 menus, you are
> also choosing the offset at which you hear received signals.
> So if you set it to 600 Hz, you'll be right on frequency with the
> other station when the signal you hear is a 600 Hz tone.
> You can match this tone by ear by goign back to the menu to StP or
> StL (better since it doesn't accidently change StP) and listening
> for the same pitch, within about 10 Hz. Once you get on the same
> frequency, turning the filter down to about 1 Khz will cut out
> most of the QRM and QRN and will give you a pleasant listening
> experience.  If you're off frequency, the received signal will
> fall outside the filter passband and you'll be treating it as you
> would a QRM or off-frequency station, and it will be attentuated.
>
> 2. If you turn the filter below 1 Khz, and more prominently, below
> 500 Hz, the center frequency of the filter itself shifts down a
> bit, so you may need to re-tune slightly to get the signal back to
> full strength.  Unfortunately, if you do this, you'll also be
> shifting your transmit frequency, so you can use the RIT feature
> of the KX1 just to shift the received frequency and leave your
> transmit frequency alone.  You probably won't need to do this
> unless you need to crank the filter way down, as in a contest, or
> with a very noisy band.  So you can safely ignore this for now and
> use the filter at about 1 Khz until you feel the need to learn more.
>
> Does this answer your question, or do you have a different issue
> that I've misunderstood?
>
> Leigh/WA5ZNU
> KX1 #712
>
> Okay, so now that I am actually using my KX-1, I need some
> help.  I am
> really a newbie when it comes to this stuff.
>
> Can someone please give me an explanation (at a basic level)
> of how you are
> actually supposed to use the filter on the KX-1?
>
> If I am listening to a signal, and then turn the filter, I
> seem to lose the
> signal.  Is this because I am not tuned exactly to that signal?
>
> Thanks for being patient, someday it will all make sense.
>
> Burke Jones
> N0HYD
> http://N0HYD.com  
> Olathe, KS
> _
>
>
>

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[Elecraft] K1 Transmitter Output Problem

[Ricky Robbins]

Building a K1, thought I was on the home stretch, but I've hit a snag.
 I was on the transmitter alignment section, page 19 of the K-4
additional manual, and all went well for 10 Mhz and 7 Mhz.  I switched
to 21 Mhz and didn't get the two watts out, but got P0.1 (like the
first steps of the Alignment and Test, Part II on page 46 of the K-1
manual when the filter board is not installed).  It didn't vary, just
P0.1.

I checked the "out" menu setting and it had 2.0 watts.  I switched
bands back to 7 Mhz, and now it only has 0.1 Watt output for tune no
matter the "out" menu setting; the same for 10 Mhz.  All frequencies
appear to be within the allowed band (didn't move the VFO knob from
the starting mid position during this time).

Left it to start typing this question, wanted to go back and look at
exactly what the display read and all bands but 21 Mhz would now
output okay -- 21 Mhz still just P0.1.  I went ahead and completed the
tune-up, skipping 21 Mhz (but starting with the 21 Mhz caps for 14
Mhz) -- wanted to try the radio out and will be using it on 40 meters
for now.

Finished the work (speaker, etc) and hooked the rig up through a tuner
to a dipole tossed into a couple of trees and, for the first time in
26 years for me, made a contact (my code skills, even with some
practice recently, are woefully rusty).  After the QSO I did some
cleanup and rearranging (included unplugging the K1), then brought it
back up to try for a second contact; back to no output, if I go into
tune I get P0.1 on screen, if I try and transmit, no power out.

Any insight would be appreciated; probably (hopefully) something
simple I'm missing.  First contact was a thrill, hope to get the
second before another 26 years go by.  :)

Thanks for any help,

Rick
N4YQP
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[Elecraft] Sunday Elecraft SSB net report 7-12-2009

[Mark C. Killmon]

Elecrafters,

 

At the request of Phil, NS7P, I acted as NCS today.

 

Thanks to all for their patience and assistance as always. I was able to
hold the net on 14.316 due to the consideration of KA7GKN and a group that
were on the frequency, who relinquished it to the net (without request, I
might add) at 18:00Z. Thanks guys.

 

 The following stations checked in:

 

N8KJC   Joe IC-7600 Harrison, MI
Joe is interested in the K3, but is not on the Internet and is looking for
specs, options, and other input, as he considers a purchase. He will likely
contact Elecraft for the latest and most comprehensive information.

M0CHK Andy K3 #1701  Wisbech, UK

K0ARO  Kurt   K3 #151Mason City, IA

KA0NCR   Arnie K3 #185Freemont, NEalso
K2 #310

KB0YH   GusK3 #441Denver, CO

W9DVM   Phil K3 #1605  Palm Harbor, FL

KC0CHR/M  Robert  TS-480   Olexa, KS

K5ENS   Keith K3   Rayville, LA
Keith didn't come back with rig details

K8EAG  Gilbert  K3 #99   Ovid, MI
Oldest K3 today

W5YVU Doug K3 #522Houston, TX

8P9HA   Edward K3 #2409  Christ Church Barbados

W8OV   Dave  K3 #3139  Plano, TX
Newest K3 today

KC9JKK Kevin FT-897   Joliette, IL

N7EDK  Ed   K2 #6576  Tuscon, AZ

AD4C Hector  K3 #2192  Palm Beach, FL

W4AKOArno  IC-7700 Marshall, VA
Arno is interested in the K3 and has two close friends with them.

 

. and K4SO Mark K3 #2861 Nokesville, VA, substitute NCS.

 

Conditions were slightly better than average, and it was great to have two
DX stations join us. Luckily, I have a fixed yagi for EU to pick up Andy,
M0CHK, since I was beaming west with the tribander. A SE beverage antenna
proved similarly useful for Edward, 8P6HA. Lots of QRN though, as I
experienced yesterday in the IARU contest.

 

I have picked up a W9XT band decoder to drive the second side of a SixPak
antenna switch, and I will report to the net when it's online. Since it uses
the Yaesu BCD values (Yaesu was there first, I believe), it should function
with the K3  just as my TopTen band decoder does, which is also designed for
the Yaesu. This board is under $20, and a great value for antenna or
bandpass filter switching.

 

 The net was adjourned at 18:41

 

73, Mark

www.k4so.com

www.picasaweb.com/kfourso

kfourso.googlepages.com

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 noise reduction revisited

[K2QI]

Nevermind; found the AFX button and was able to turn it off completely.
Unfortunately, still no major improvement in the NR performance.

James K2QI

On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 4:53 PM, K2QI  wrote:

> Rick,
>
> I'm assuming that the 'BIN' setting is what turns the AFX off?  I've tried
> the AFX settings with delay going from 1-5 plus BIN, and there isn't too
> much of a noticeable difference.  The DSP still works poorly.  It probaly
> wouldn't be so bad if the DSP didn't attenuate the signal as much as it does
> also.
>
> I regret selling my BHI ANEM module now; I could have used it line with my
> headphones.
>
> James K2QI
>
>   On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 3:40 PM, Rick Braun  wrote:
>
>>  I posted this once before, but not a single response, so here goes
>> again.  I found that the F1-1 NR works OK if the AFX is turned off.  My
>> sense is that AFX plus NR is too much processing.  Try the NR without the
>> fake stereo, it seems more effective to me.
>>
>> Rick Braun
>> KE7VXP
>> K3 # 2869
>>
>>  - Original Message -
>> *From:* James Sarte 
>> *To:* elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>>   *Sent:* Saturday, July 11, 2009 9:06 PM
>> *Subject:* [Elecraft] K3 noise reduction revisited
>>
>> Has there been any progress on improving the NR algorithm used in the K3?
>> As it is, it's only helpful perhaps 2% of the time on SSB with the
>> remaining
>> 98% of it remaining off.  I've tried adjusting AGC settings, plus fiddling
>> with the DSP settings and can never seem to find a happy medium.
>>
>>
>>
>> Adjusting the receive EQ also has a major impact on the NR's audio
>> quality.
>> Sometimes I like to boost the midrange and treble areas on receive EQ as
>> it
>> helps with speech, but with any of the parameters set to a +1 or higher,
>> the
>> resulting audio out with NR on is terrible.  It sounds almost as if I'm
>> listening to the audio through a long drain pipe.
>>
>>
>>
>> Finally, turning on the NR generally tends to attenuate the signal rather
>> than filter it; a very annoying behavior if you ask me.  This has become
>> painfully obvious during this weekend's IARU contest.
>>
>>
>>
>> Truth be told, the best DSP application I've used and heard so far has
>> come
>> from BHI with their ANEM modules.  There are only a few settings to
>> adjust,
>> but it's very effective in isolating human speech patterns from background
>> noise.  It runs rings around the K3 when it comes to SSB noise reduction.
>> I'm hoping that sooner (rather than later), Elecraft can come up with a
>> firmware fix for the NR.
>>
>>
>>
>> 73 de James K2QI
>>
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>>
>>
>
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[Elecraft] K1 STP shift?

[rhulett1]

After my K1 had been idle for a few months, got it out this weekend for the 
SKCC sprint. Surprisingly, no responses to my calls, so checked transmit 
frequency with another receiver when pitch of a signal received on the K1 was 
600Hz , found transmit frequency was off by about 400 Hz.  Opened the K-1 up, 
set the switch to test, sure enough the test note was about 200 Hz.  Adjusted 
C13 to bring the pitch to STP, 600Hz, closed up, now transmit frequency is on 
the money and my calls are readily answered.

My question, would this indicate a component beginning to fail?  I'm surprised 
that any C13 adjustment was necessary ever.  Up until this, everything about 
the K1 has seemed pretty rock solid.

73, Curt KB5JO
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[Elecraft] THANKS FOR THE LINKS - K3-to-Quadra Inter-Wiring Connectors

[Tom Hammond]

MANY THANKS to all those who responded with links to a number of 
apparently viable sources for the somewhat specialized (and a bit 
scarce) 262-degree pin pattern 8-Pin DIN connector required by the 
Yaesu Quadra HF amplifier when fabricating the inter-connection cables.

For your reference, I have the following links to potential sources 
of the connector:

Yaesu Parts, and Yaesu dealers
The RF Connection, http://www.therfc.com/dinconn.htm
Show Me Cables, http://www.showmecables.com/DIN-Plug.html
NKC Electronics, 
http://www.nkcelectronics.com/8-pin-262-degree-circular-din-conne.html
Universal Radio, http://www.universal-radio.com/catalog/parts/dinconn.html

These links will be reflected in another soon-to-be-released update 
to the K3-to-Quadra docs which will appear on www.n0ss.net soon.

Your help is greatly appreciated.

73,

Tom   N0SS
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[Elecraft] DIN Plug for Quadra

[Hermann Eckel]

The Plug for the Quadra VL1000, N0SS is talking about is a DIN 41524 
Plug, which is really different from the 270 Degree DIN Plugs.
Thanks you Tom foryour  nice document.
You should be able using the corrrect DIN 41524 to find a Dealer nearby.
55, 73 de Hermann, OE2HEM / AB3DR

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[Elecraft] AGC fast recover after a K3 transmission

[Arie Kleingeld PA3A]

Worked my K3 in the IARU contest this weekend (PA6HQ 20m cw).
Performed flawlessly except for

Yes the AGC, and in the following manner:

I am one of thse people who always use AGC slow in CW and in SSB.
(Please guys, spare me the comments that I have to ride the AGC, that is
not the issue here.)
When running in the contest, very strong stations are often followed bij
very weak stations. After the K3-transmission the AGC starts at the
point where it was left before the transmission. (Lyle explained that
before).
It would be nice if the Gain was reset in a smart way at the end of a
transmission so I would not miss the first letter of a call when a weak
station follows a strong one.

By the way, this also stands for SSB.

It was mentioned that the way that the agc is implemented now was the
best in normal QSO'ing and I agree. But the K3 was built to be top
performing in heavy contest / pile-up environment. And if the call rate
is high, a recovered agc at the beginning of a reception looks like a
fine feature to me.


Would be nice if this smart reset for the agc could be implemented in
the menu?
Any one say "aye"?


Thanks all,

73
Arie PA3A

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Re: [Elecraft] New list member/T1 tuner questions

[qrp_1]

While I currently do not own the Elecraft T1 tuner, I do use a long wire 
antenna with my radio.  The HF antenna is hung as an inverted Vee with
both sides cut 
for the 40 meter band.  [[snip]]

Jim, 
  I do not understand this statement.  How can a "long wire antenna" have
2 sides ?  A long wire is fed from one end only, so are you speaking of
an endfed wire with an equal length counterpoise laying on the ground or
are you speaking of a doublet antenna fed in the center with a feedline ?
 I do have manual tuners but want something much simpler like and end fed
wire with an auto tuner for quick band changes in the field - don't want
to pack something the size of a MFJ-941 tuner into the woods !

73 - Rick McKee, KC8AON
Southern Ohio - EM88sn
www.angelfire.com/electronic2/qrp
With God all things are possible ~ ><(('> ~
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Re: [Elecraft] KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected

[Julian Moss]

On 12/07/2009, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> Julian,
>
> Does your transverter have an "enable" input signal - hopefully 5 volts
> active and 0 volts inactive?  If so, you can connect it to the K3  AUX
> I/O pin 7 (XVTR ON) and set the menu CONFIG: XVn ON.
> Of course, this AUX I/O pin is shared with TX INH, so if you are using
> the TX INH function, that will not work.
> BUT, you can always decode the band data outputs for the transverter
> band you are using and use that for a transverter enable (or gate the
> PTT input to the transverter with the band data decoded).
>

It doesn't appear to. I think that's something unique to the Elecraft
range of transverters, unfortunately.
-- 
Julian, G4ILO
G4ILO's Shack: www.g4ilo.com
G4ILO's Blog: www.g4ilo.com/blog.html
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Re: [Elecraft] KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

The circuit is called an OR gate - output high if either 
input is high.  The easiest way to homebrew one is to use 
a dual opto-isolator with the outputs in series ... 

The attached assumes DIGOUT will sink a few mA - adjust R 
for the current required by the opto-isolator you use. 

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Julian, G4ILO
> Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 1:19 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected
> 
> 
> 
> I don't have a linear amplifier. I do have a transverter, and 
> I use the KEY OUT jack to put it into TX. Trouble is, it puts 
> the transverter into TX whatever band I'm using. For LO 
> stability reasons (not to mention that I can never remember 
> to switch the transverter off when I'm not using it) I'd 
> prefer to be able to leave the transverter switched on but 
> only receive a PTT signal when the VHF band is selected. I 
> think that means I'd need a circuit that combines the state 
> of DIGOUT0 with KEYOUT-LP, such that it grounds the 
> transverter PTT input when DIGOUT0 is 0V and KEYOUT-LP is 
> grounded. Has anyone made something like that?
> 
> -
> Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
> * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
> * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
> * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html
> 
> -- 
> View this message in context: 
> http://n2.nabble.com/KEYOUT-PTT-only-when-transverter-band-sel
ected-tp3246434p3246434.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected

[Don Wilhelm]

Julian,

Does your transverter have an "enable" input signal - hopefully 5 volts 
active and 0 volts inactive?  If so, you can connect it to the K3  AUX 
I/O pin 7 (XVTR ON) and set the menu CONFIG: XVn ON.
Of course, this AUX I/O pin is shared with TX INH, so if you are using 
the TX INH function, that will not work.
BUT, you can always decode the band data outputs for the transverter 
band you are using and use that for a transverter enable (or gate the 
PTT input to the transverter with the band data decoded).

73,
Don W3FPR

Julian, G4ILO wrote:
> I don't have a linear amplifier. I do have a transverter, and I use the KEY
> OUT jack to put it into TX. Trouble is, it puts the transverter into TX
> whatever band I'm using. For LO stability reasons (not to mention that I can
> never remember to switch the transverter off when I'm not using it) I'd
> prefer to be able to leave the transverter switched on but only receive a
> PTT signal when the VHF band is selected. I think that means I'd need a
> circuit that combines the state of DIGOUT0 with KEYOUT-LP, such that it
> grounds the transverter PTT input when DIGOUT0 is 0V and KEYOUT-LP is
> grounded. Has anyone made something like that?
>   
>
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[Elecraft] How to Flub Morse BIG TIME

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

So, any Ham who's ever touch the paddles or a key has gotten his (or her)
fingers in a knot and made some pretty embarrassing mistakes sending CW.
But, at least, they were probably only noticed by the operator at the other
end.

How about someone who messes up Morse for all to see for hundreds of miles
around, and then it pounds on with the relentless repetition only an
automatic message can do?

My good friend Mychael (a.k.a. "the toroidguy") AA3WF sent this along to me
about the city where he lives, and where Morse seems permanently mangled:

http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/09193/983408-53.stm


and a video:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3fTYzoSDAS4


He writes, "Our attempts to get the situation rectified fell on deaf ears,
so perhaps this recent attention can see the situation remedied!"

We can only hope but, after all, aren't newspapers notorious for mangled
spelling? (If anyone remembers what a newspaper looks like, that is.)

73 to my fellow CW enthusiasts - keep pounding brass, no matter what.

Ron AC7AC




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Re: [Elecraft] Updated docs - K3-to-Yaesu_Quadra_Inter-wiring

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

The correct connector - DIN8/262 used to be available from DigiKey. 
It was the CUI SD-81.  Here's a comparison of the "standard" DIN8 
and the DIN8/262: 

   DIN8/270:  http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/SD-80.pdf
   DIN8/262:  http://www.cui.com/pdffiles/SD-81.pdf  

CUI still lists the SD-81 but it is no longer shown in inventory 
at DigiKey.  

Universal Radio in Columbus, OH (www.universal-radio.com) still 
shows the "Kenwood DIN 8" for $5.99 (not exactly a "good" price) 
and other Yaesu dealers should have it in their service department 
(if they still have service departments).  The RF Connection also 
lists the DIN8/262 for $1.00 but there have been many complaints 
about the quality because the insulation appears to melt before 
the solder does .  

73, 

   ... Joe, W4TV 
 



> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Tom Hammond
> Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 10:20 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] Updated docs - K3-to-Yaesu_Quadra_Inter-wiring
> 
> 
> 
> I have just updated some of the information for the 
> documentation of my K3-to-Quadra Inter-wiring which is on my web site.
> 
> Mainly, the updates were to WARN potential users of the info 
> about the 'GOTCHA' with regard to using the appropriate 8-pin 
> DIN plug required by the Quadra's BAND DATA 1 connector.
> 
> The Quadra REQUIRES that you use a 262-degree pin pattern 
> 8-pin DIN plug at this location, rather than the more 
> commonly available 270-degree pin pattern plug.
> 
> The 262-degree DIN plug is commonly referred to as a 
> 'horseshoe pattern' plug, but it is NOT always stocked by 
> many electronics houses.
> 
> If you attempt to use a 270-degree pattern plug in the 
> 262-degree pattern socket, you will likely break the socket!!!
> 
> Anyone who has downloaded previous versions of these docs, 
> might want to update to the latest version.  And, as 
> available, I will try to (eventually) provide a source 
> listing for the connectors required for this interface cable. 
>  At present, I can find all of the connectors BUT the 
> 262-degree plug, and I'm still looking for a source for that 
> connector.  Once I find a source, I will add that info to the docs.
> 
> IF YOU KNOW OF A RELIABLE SOURCE FOR THE 2620-DEGREE 8-PIN 
> DIN PLUG, PLEASE DROP ME A NOTE WITH THE INFO.
> 
> Revised docs are available at:
> 
> http://www.n0ss.net/k3-to-quadra_11jul09.pdf
> 
> This is 1.3 MB file.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Tom Hamond   N0SS
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Mike Harris]

Hi,

Yes.  On my Acom 1000 there is a button marked OPER, press it to go 
off-line, press it again to on-line.  I bet many other amps have something 
similar.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: "Richard Thorne" 
To: "Elecraft" 
Sent: Sunday, July 12, 2009 11:00 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button


| Is there a way to turn off the ptt signal to an amp when the TUNE button
| is pushed?
|
| I want to run high power but I want to disable the amp while tuning an
| external antenna tuner.
|
| Thanks
|
| Rich - N5ZC

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[Elecraft] KEYOUT PTT only when transverter band selected

[Julian, G4ILO]

I don't have a linear amplifier. I do have a transverter, and I use the KEY
OUT jack to put it into TX. Trouble is, it puts the transverter into TX
whatever band I'm using. For LO stability reasons (not to mention that I can
never remember to switch the transverter off when I'm not using it) I'd
prefer to be able to leave the transverter switched on but only receive a
PTT signal when the VHF band is selected. I think that means I'd need a
circuit that combines the state of DIGOUT0 with KEYOUT-LP, such that it
grounds the transverter PTT input when DIGOUT0 is 0V and KEYOUT-LP is
grounded. Has anyone made something like that?

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/KEYOUT-PTT-only-when-transverter-band-selected-tp3246434p3246434.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] Diversity Revisited

[Michael M. Raskin]

I asked this same question back in December and received many response.  I 
then summarized the responses and posted that summary on this reflector. 
Now that it's seven months later, I was wondering if anyone wants to share 
any additional experiences.  I use diversity reception with two antennas, 
one for the main and the other for the sub-receiver, on the low bands 
(40-160).  For receive only, I have a K9AY loop and, soon, the DX 
Engineering 4-square receive antenna on a separate lot about 100' away. 
Most of the DX activity on the low bands is on CW, except for 80, where 
there is a considerable amount of SSB activity.  For diversity reception, 
the manual says that the best results are obtained when the filters in the 
main and sub are the same bandwidth and matched.  I am using a pair of 500 
Hz for CW diversity but wondering what others are using for SSB diversity. 
Are the pair of 1.8 SSB filters worth it over the stock 2.7 filters in the 
main and sub?  Also, are the 200 or 250 filter too sharp for CW diversity on 
160 (my primary low band area of interest)?  What are others using for CW 
diversity receive?  Anyone using diversity for other than the low bands? 
How about BC diversity using 2 general receive modules?

Mike, W4UM
Florida Contest Group
South Florida DX Association
Mid-Florida DX Association 

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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

Yeah, called turning amp to standby.  In my case anyway, standby switch is
right in front of my face.  I've gotten into habit of turning amp to standby
when I change bands and only putting it back on when I've seen normal SWR on
K3 in tune, and I've changed amp tuning knobs to numbers for the new band.
WAY easier on expensive amp tubes.

Personally I wouldn't want the function you imply in the K3, certainly not
as a default behavior. I'd bet that generates a whole new string of  threads.

73, Guy
On Sun, Jul 12, 2009 at 11:00 AM, Richard Thorne wrote:

> Is there a way to turn off the ptt signal to an amp when the TUNE button
> is pushed?
>
> I want to run high power but I want to disable the amp while tuning an
> external antenna tuner.
>
> Thanks
>
> Rich - N5ZC
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-- 
73, Guy  K2AV
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[Elecraft] Alan added you as a friend on MyLife!

[Alan Price]

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Please confirm you know Alan so we can connect you.

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YES - Connect with Alan, and see who's searching for you

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NO - I don't know Alan 
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~~

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Contact Us:

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - 160 meter Hi Current on Transmitt.

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

The problem is in the 160 meter Low Pass Filter (on the K160RX board).

First, be certain that the 2 toroids have their leads well stripped and 
tinned.  You should see a bit of the tinned lead above the board.

Check the soldering at K1 as well as C1, C2 and C3.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Heinsohn wrote:
> Hi All
>
>   Hope I can get a bit of help here and that the solution is a simple one.
>
>   As I was putting the K2  back together I installed the 160 module and 
> tested it.  Everything seemed to go fine until I got to the transmitter 
> tune up.  The receive worked fine, could easily hear some stations on 
> 1.830.  The receive antenna worked fine on 160 and other bands.  BUT, 
> when I attempted to tune the transmitter on 1.850 with the power set to 
> 2 watts, it went right to Hi Curr and dropped the power to .02.  The 
> voltage display goes to 12.6 from 13.4, which is about the same as other 
> bands.  Current at 0.2 w in tune after the Hi Curr is 1.84.   
>   I've retuned the transmitter on 80 to be sure I had it peaked.  It 
> seems to be.
>
>   So does anyone have any good ideas?
>
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K2 - 160 meter Hi Current on Transmitt.

[David Heinsohn]

Hi All

  Hope I can get a bit of help here and that the solution is a simple one.

  As I was putting the K2  back together I installed the 160 module and 
tested it.  Everything seemed to go fine until I got to the transmitter 
tune up.  The receive worked fine, could easily hear some stations on 
1.830.  The receive antenna worked fine on 160 and other bands.  BUT, 
when I attempted to tune the transmitter on 1.850 with the power set to 
2 watts, it went right to Hi Curr and dropped the power to .02.  The 
voltage display goes to 12.6 from 13.4, which is about the same as other 
bands.  Current at 0.2 w in tune after the Hi Curr is 1.84.   
  I've retuned the transmitter on 80 to be sure I had it peaked.  It 
seems to be.

  So does anyone have any good ideas?

  Time to go mow the rest of the yard and work on the SSB module!

73
de
KD0R
David

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Re: [Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Dave G4AON]

I think the only way is to use an external switch in the amplifier
keying line, or switching the amplifier to standby.

73 Dave, G4AON
K3/100 #80, Acom 1000
-

Is there a way to turn off the ptt signal to an amp when the TUNE button
is pushed?

I want to run high power but I want to disable the amp while tuning an
external antenna tuner.

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC
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[Elecraft] K2 #6708 is out of the Hospital

[David Heinsohn]

  Well I got the new PA, Driver and PA Bias stuff installed last night 
and got the testing finished as well.  The little grey box with the 
bright green eyes is once again sitting on the shelf above the paddles 
doing it's thing.
  It's nice to have it back.

  I also had a bit of cosmetic surgery done while it was in the hospital 
- It now has a cute little dimple on it's mouth/knob.  The tuning dimple 
is a bit more than I might have liked to pay for it, but it does make 
tuning easier.

de
KD0R
David

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[Elecraft] Turning off Amp PTT when using Tune Button

[Richard Thorne]

Is there a way to turn off the ptt signal to an amp when the TUNE button 
is pushed?

I want to run high power but I want to disable the amp while tuning an 
external antenna tuner. 

Thanks

Rich - N5ZC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 #1689 - Audio Problems

[K2MK]

Hi Chuck:

The front headphones will turn off the speaker unless you have CONFIG: 
SPKR+PH set to YES. You would want it to be set to NO. But then again, maybe 
two sets of headphones confuses things.

Not sure why they cutout.

73,
Mike K2MK



Chuck Jones
Sat, 11 Jul 2009 17:57:51 -0700

GE,

We are operating in the IARU contest and have had two complete RX
audio cutouts on both headphones.  We are using front and rear
headphone jacks so two people can listen.

Another problem I had noticed recently was the front headphones do
not turn off the internal speaker.  Tried different configurations on
the speaker setting without correcting the problem.  Do not know
whether this is a new or old problem.

Unit is completely stock.

Thanks, Chuck N7BV
 

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 issue on 20M (not crystal related)

[Don Wilhelm]

Don,

Are you certain you have the Pre-mixer capacitors set properly for 15 
meters?  It is quite possible to set them for a response in the 31 MHz 
range instead of the correct 25 MHz range.  If that happens, you will 
not be able to align the Pre-mix bandpass to 20 meters.  Start with the 
15 meter capacitors set near the center position (with the slot pointing 
to the narrow end of the capacitor) and do not vary them more than 30 
degrees from that position while tuning.

Be certain you are really hearing signals in the 15 meter band when 
doing the initial receive alignment of the pre-mixer bandpass filter.  
If you do not have a signal generator for 15 meters, use another ham 
transmitter transmitting at low power into a dummy load and connect a 
short antenna wire to the K1 - place the wire near the dummy load.

After aligning 15 meters, try aligning 20 meters again.

73,
Don W3FPR

Don Herring wrote:
> Greetings
>
> I'm a newbie building a K1-4.  Everything was going OK until the 
> receiver alignment phase of the build where I ran into a problem where I 
> could not hear anything on 20M.
>
> After searching the list and several exchanges with Elecraft support, I 
> had not gotten anywhere in resolving the problem.   Based on previous 
> issues seen on the list regarding 20M, Elecraft did send me a couple of 
> replacement crystals for the band.
>
> In the mean time, I completed the transmitter section and was able to 
> get output on 40, 30, and 15 - no output on 20 as per an external 
> wattmeter.
>  
> Replacing the 20M crystal had no effect.  Using my Ten-Tec RX-320D, I 
> was able to verify operation of all the crystals, including 20M.
>
> I put together a RF probe this weekend and started signal tracing.  This 
> is what I have found, though the finding does not make much sense to my 
> inexperienced mind.
>
> At step 8 in the signal tracing procedure in the K1 Manual, I was 
> getting 0 voltage on 20M, and anywhere from 0.025 t0 .035 on the other 
> bands. 
>
> I started tracing back from P1 pin 6, and took a reading at T2 which is 
> the source of my puzzlement.
>
> I can see voltage on all bands going into T2 on lead 3, but no voltage 
> at lead 2 for 20M - I'm getting a reading on lead 2 for all other bands.
>
> So it appears T2 may be the source of my problem.  But it doesn't click 
> with me that the toroid can be a problem with just one band.
>
> One other oddity is that even though I'm not seeing any signal on the 
> external wattmeter I can hear 20M on the RX-320.
>
> Am I on the right track here, or do I need further testing before 
> working on T2?
>
> THX, and 73
>
> Don, KJ4MRB
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[Elecraft] Updated docs - K3-to-Yaesu_Quadra_Inter-wiring

[Tom Hammond]

I have just updated some of the information for the documentation of my
K3-to-Quadra Inter-wiring which is on my web site.

Mainly, the updates were to WARN potential users of the info about the
'GOTCHA' with regard to using the appropriate 8-pin DIN plug required
by the Quadra's BAND DATA 1 connector.

The Quadra REQUIRES that you use a 262-degree pin pattern 8-pin DIN plug
at this location, rather than the more commonly available 270-degree pin
pattern plug.

The 262-degree DIN plug is commonly referred to as a 'horseshoe pattern'
plug, but it is NOT always stocked by many electronics houses.

If you attempt to use a 270-degree pattern plug in the 262-degree pattern
socket, you will likely break the socket!!!

Anyone who has downloaded previous versions of these docs, might want to
update to the latest version.  And, as available, I will try to (eventually)
provide a source listing for the connectors required for this interface
cable.  At present, I can find all of the connectors BUT the 262-degree
plug, and I'm still looking for a source for that connector.  Once I find a
source, I will add that info to the docs.

IF YOU KNOW OF A RELIABLE SOURCE FOR THE 2620-DEGREE 8-PIN DIN PLUG, PLEASE
DROP ME A NOTE WITH THE INFO.

Revised docs are available at:

http://www.n0ss.net/k3-to-quadra_11jul09.pdf

This is 1.3 MB file.

73,

Tom Hamond   N0SS

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[Elecraft] K1 issue on 20M (not crystal related)

[Don Herring]

Greetings

I'm a newbie building a K1-4.  Everything was going OK until the 
receiver alignment phase of the build where I ran into a problem where I 
could not hear anything on 20M.

After searching the list and several exchanges with Elecraft support, I 
had not gotten anywhere in resolving the problem.   Based on previous 
issues seen on the list regarding 20M, Elecraft did send me a couple of 
replacement crystals for the band.

In the mean time, I completed the transmitter section and was able to 
get output on 40, 30, and 15 - no output on 20 as per an external 
wattmeter.
 
Replacing the 20M crystal had no effect.  Using my Ten-Tec RX-320D, I 
was able to verify operation of all the crystals, including 20M.

I put together a RF probe this weekend and started signal tracing.  This 
is what I have found, though the finding does not make much sense to my 
inexperienced mind.

At step 8 in the signal tracing procedure in the K1 Manual, I was 
getting 0 voltage on 20M, and anywhere from 0.025 t0 .035 on the other 
bands. 

I started tracing back from P1 pin 6, and took a reading at T2 which is 
the source of my puzzlement.

I can see voltage on all bands going into T2 on lead 3, but no voltage 
at lead 2 for 20M - I'm getting a reading on lead 2 for all other bands.

So it appears T2 may be the source of my problem.  But it doesn't click 
with me that the toroid can be a problem with just one band.

One other oddity is that even though I'm not seeing any signal on the 
external wattmeter I can hear 20M on the RX-320.

Am I on the right track here, or do I need further testing before 
working on T2?

THX, and 73

Don, KJ4MRB
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Re: [Elecraft] Update on Micro M+ solar charge controller

[John R. Lonigro]

Gary:
I built one of those M+ controllers many years ago.  For Field Day this 
year, I had two 5 Watt solar panels hooked up in parallel going to it 
and then to a 5 AH gel cell.  After about 6 hours of operating (search 
and pounce) with my K2 at 5 Watts, the micro M+ was cycling, indicating 
the battery was still fully charged.  That was in full sunlight, only a 
few days from the summer solstice.  Depending on how portable you want 
to be and how much operating you intend to do, I would suggest a panel 
in the 5-10 Watt category might work well for you.  The controller 
itself can handle larger panels (higher current), but you don't want 
more than about an Amp going into a 7 AH gel cell, to keep from damaging 
it.  Also, naturally, larger panels (current-wise) tend to be less portable.

73's,
John AA0VE

Gary W. Marklund wrote:
> I've just ordered a M+. I'm using a 7AH 12v gel cell. I would appreciate 
> some suggestions for appropriate solar panels for this application.
>
> TNX and 73,
>
> Gary
> KJ7RT
>
>   
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[Elecraft] [K3] K144XV - crossband to HF

[LB3SA]

Here in Norway we re-transmit (with permission from NRRL and Dept. of
Communications) the weekly QST transmission on HF to a 2M repeater. This was
of course a simple task with a Kenwood TS-2000 since you can xband from VHF
to HF. Will this be possible with the K3/K144XV combo? I'm guessing no but
thought I'd ask in case someone has a creative solution to this.

73,
Are - LB3SA
-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] Commercial CW for SWLers and Hams

[Jan Erik Holm]

Back in the days when they where QRV 24/7 I used them frequently
to check for "long path" 3.5 MHz openings to California/west coast.
To me they where very good propagation beacons, I also used KFS.
As I recall KPH was stronger then KFS.
Those where fun days/years, it sure isn´t the same anymore.

/Jim SM2EKM
--
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> 
> KPH and KSM are on the California coast at Bolinas and Point Reyes, just
> north of San Francisco.
> 
> Ron AC7AC
> 


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