Re: [Elecraft] T1 tuner balanced in/out

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The BL2 *is* a 1:1 balun. The only difference between a 1:1 and a 4:1 is the
way the windings are connected. The BL2 has a switch to make the connections
for either transformation, 1:1 or 4:1. Your choice.

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

Thanks but no thanks. Only balun I would consider would be at the 
input to the rf section and would be a 1-1 balun.

Gil

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[Elecraft] [K2] K2 - No TX

[djmd]

Hello,

My K2 was working previously on all bands with no problem. I been been away
from it for several weeks doing other things, but decided to get on tonight
and try to make a couple contacts. 

I'm getting no TX at all, even connected to a dummy load. Display shows .1w
on all bands regardless of RF power setting. 

Voltage display - 
idle 12.4v  240ma
tx   12.2v  560ma

I don't have my DMM right now and it will be a couple days before I have it
back, so I wanted to post to see if there's something obvious before I start
tracing. I can't imagine a part failing with the unit just sitting there.
Occasionally I have turned it on to listen, but haven't tried tuning it up
in at least a month.

Thanks a bunch for any assistance!

Dave
K8DJW


-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K2---No-TX-tp3293275p3293275.html
Sent from the [K2] mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] The weekness of a d'arsonval watt meter

[Don Wilhelm]

Duane,

While you are correct on the meter movement specs, take a hard look at 
the wattmeters available to hams.

The LP-100 wattmeter does almost what you are referring to.  It is quite 
accurate when calibrated.

I have a general mistrust on analog reading wattmeters.  Many wattmeters 
on the ham market are speced for 20% of the full scale reading - and 
that means an error of up to 20 watts on a 100 watt scale (often the 
lowest scale).
Even the revered Bird wattmeter is speced for 5% of the full scale 
reading right after calibration, and that is up to a 5 watt error with a 
100 watt slug - and how many Bird wattmeters in the hands of hams have a 
current calibration sticker?

The Elecraft W2 wattmeter promises to make the power measurement 
capability better, but it is not yet available (ship in August was the 
target).

You can certainly do better than that with an oscilloscope to read the 
RF voltage across a precision 50 ohm non-inductive resistor.  Caddock 
makes  50 ohm Thick Film Power resistors that are good to 100 watts with 
a heat sink - attach one to a heat sink salvaged from a defunct computer 
CPU cooler and attach a BNC connector with zero length leads and you 
will have an inexpensive precision dummy load that is flat to at least 
200 MHz.  Ridge Equipment (use Google) often has dummy loads at a very 
inexpensive price that are good to at least 200 MHz as well.  So for 
under $20, you can have a piece of precision equipment that is the basis 
for power measurement (just measure the RF Voltage across the precision 
dummy load and compute the power).  That device can be used for 
calibration of wattmeters, and the result should be within 5% even 
allowing for errors - and the results have nothing to do with the "full 
scale".

73,
Don W3FPR

dw wrote:
> If I am correct, most manufactures claim a 10% tolerance on most
> d'arsonval type watt meters.
> I believe there are also some caveats.
> That 10% is at a specified level of applied wattage, and of course
> applied into a 50 ohm load.
> This means that at 100 watts applied power, the meter can read +/- 10
> watts.
> This however, does not take into consideration the non-linearity
> characteristics of a d'arsonval meter.
> And so the manufacture will take a specific meter as his prototype and
> mark various wattage readings up through its range.
> And those physical points will become the template for the numbers
> displayed behind the meter when it goes into mass production. 
> If he is really fussy, he will take 10 of those meters on the prototype
> bench, and record their physical readings and then make his template
> based on the average of those ten prototype meters.
>
> We then have to factor in the variance of tolerance for every d'arsonval
> meter assembled into future boxes on the assembly line.
> What we might end up with then, in the real world, is a meter, when
> activated by the user, points to various numbers on its display with an
> inaccuracy that may be 20% or more, based on its individual mechanical
> response to various wattages up its range.
>
> The d'arsonval meter is driven with a series resistor (usually a pot)
> from the rectified power source.
> A manufacture may be so inclined to visibly fix calibration pots with
> the eye during the assembly process, and then spot check the meter with
> 100 watts applied.  If it falls within +/- 10 watts during the
> spot-check.ship it..it meets its advertised accuracy.
>
>
> This is where the micro-chip can give you an edge up.
> The micro-chip can hold within its memory a table of values programed by
> the user.
> Remove the d'arsonval meter and its series-R and connect the
> micro-chip's analog input instead.
> As a calibrated applied wattage source is used, "teach" the micro-chip
> how to interpret the voltages it sees as the wattage is increased up the
> scale.
> Now you have a watt meter that is calibrated at multiple points up its
> scale instead of at a single spot-check point.
> A microchip watt meter can then approximate the accuracy of the bird
> watt meter.
> Since ( I think this is true ) the bird meter is also rated at a certain
> wattage point and that accuracy is (due to the use of a d'arsonval
> meter) diminished below that wattage point.
>
> Some day a smart ham is going to manufacture and sell a mico-chip based
> watt-meter which the user can calibrate himself using a bird meter, or
> better yet...an o-scope. 
> Of course that is... if there is a marketable demand for higher accuracy
> than currently exists.  :)
>   
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] The weakness of a d'arsonval watt meter

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

DW wrote:

If I am correct, most manufactures claim a 10% tolerance on most d'arsonval
type watt meters. I believe there are also some caveats.
That 10% is at a specified level of applied wattage, and of course applied
into a 50 ohm load. This means that at 100 watts applied power, the meter
can read +/- 10 watts. This however, does not take into consideration the
non-linearity characteristics of a d'arsonval meter.

---

That has nothing to do with the d'Arsonoval meter itself. Good quality
movements are quite linear and accurate. (There is a different type of
"moving needle" meter that is not as accurate: the so-called "moving vane"
type of meter that was cheaper to produce. But they are very rarely seen any
longer.)

Most wattmeters, including the Birds, specify the accuracy as a percentage
of "full scale". 

Birds are great wattmeters, but one *must* use the slug rated for the
correct wattage and frequency range for any accuracy at all. For example, a
"Bird" is spec'd at +/- 5% of full scale. So, if you use a 100 watt slug,
it'll be as much as 10 watts off across the entire range. So, at 100 watts
it'll be within 10% of what it indicates. And at low powers the error may
reach 100% of the applied power. 

It is true that many meters using a simple detector circuit tend to get
non-linear at low levels because the diode isn't linear. Actually, the
series resistor helps that but it's not a cure-all. Still, proper design
keeps the RF voltage at the detector at a good level for good accuracy. 

I've found that most medium priced wattmeters are quite accurate - often at
least as accurate as any other good meter, including a "Bird" (speaking of
the popular Model 43 "thruline" meter, recently calibrated and using the
proper slug). For example, I have a Daiwa CN801 that sold for about $150
new. My comparisons with other quality wattmeters suggest it's as accurate
as the 801 the ARRL tested in their product reviews. They found it indicated
between 4.9 and 4.8 watts from 2 to 30 MHz with 5 watts applied: a truly
great accuracy. At 144 MHz, the top end of its specified range, it showed
6.3 watts with 5 watts applied.  

The accuracy is as good or better at higher powers. 

I suspect that's true of most of the meters on the market today. 

I suppose that a digital readout can be made more accurate, but there's also
a caveat with digital readouts: many people look at the numbers and assume
they are correct. If a DMM says 10.134 volts they think 10.134 volts is the
voltage applied. That's almost *never* true for many reasons including that
the A to D converters used have a finite accuracy, just like the
moving-needle d'Arsonval meters. 

Personally, I like the d'Arsonval type movements for most things because
they let me see changes quickly and don't "fool me" with an implied accuracy
that simply is not true.

Ron AC7AC


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[Elecraft] KAT2 problems continued - T1

[Tom Campie]

So I removed R6 in my attempt to isolate my problems with my power  
readings and I found the DC voltage on U4, pin 1 to be .01V so  
obviously there's a problem.  The directions suggest checking T1.  I  
did not build this board so I don't know if the windings of T1 were  
shorted when it was made but they appear to be now that it is on the  
board.  Are the red and green wires supposed to be shorted when its on  
the board?  (after some study of the schematic, it is clear that they  
are now shorted on the board)  I am not sure where to look next.  I've  
reflown all the solder joints with no change and U4 has power.  I  
don't know where to look next!  Some guidance would be great.


Tom

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Bill]

Keith,  

I have a growth above my nail bed so I keep my nail trimmed short My
dimple doesn't even look worn.  Could your nail be the cause?

Bill
K9YEQ
Fish Creek, WI

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith Bainbridge
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 9:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

I remember commenting about the wear to the main VFO knob finger dimple 
on my K3 ( S/No 133 ) some time ago and being told there was something 
in the offing to improve things?
Is there any further update on this please?
The paint has well and truly gone and as a result the radio looks " 2nd 
hand"
It certainly doesn't perform " 2nd hand" !
Here in VK6 we dont have the advantage of Europe or NA , I'm lucky if I 
hear a signal on 40 or 20 these days never mind "picking them out from 
the interference " So the tuning knob gets a LOT of work.
This is the penalty for living in the most isolated city on the planet.
One day my K3 will come into its own from Perth , I just hope I live 
long enough to experience my 3rd sunspot maxima !
Cheers
Keith

-- 
Keith
R K Bainbridge
VK6RK/ VK6XH
http://vk6rk.blogspot.com
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6NC /VK6ANC
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[Elecraft] K3 SHIFT / WIDTH oddity

[Joe Planisky]

Hey Folks,

I'm trying to determine whether an oddity I'm experiencing with the  
DSP filter is unique to my K3, or might be a general firmware bug.   
I'm using the beta 3.19 firmware, but have not tried it on earlier  
versions to see if it's unique to 3.19.

I have the 13 kHz, 2.7 kHz, and 400 Hz filters installed.

1. Go to a clear spot on any band (i.e. no signals, just noise). CW  
mode.

2. Set the "SHIFT" control to the minimum value (FC 0.15 on my rig).

3. Set the "WIDTH" control to BW 1.20.  Note the sound of the noise.

4. Rotate the "WIDTH" control CCW.  At BW 1.00, there's a drastic  
change in the noise.  The low frequencies disappear.

5. Continue rotating "WIDTH" CCW. At BW 0.85, the low frequencies re- 
appear and remain present through the minimum width (BW 0.05)

Here are (very rough) readings I took of the -6 dB points with  
Spectrogram:

BWf lo  f hi
1.20  145   689
1.10  183   695
1.00  360   586
0.95  358   574
0.90  365   574
0.85  166   501
0.80  168   490
0.75  181   480

The shift on the low frequency end by nearly an octave between 1.0 and  
0.90 is clearly visible.  Note that throughout these readings, the  
XFIL display indicated FL2 (my 2.7 kHz) filter was being used.

If anyone else can reproduce this, please let me know.

73
--
Joe KB8AP
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[tom . campie]

I just thought of another thing: I got the KAT2 almost completely built -  
just had to put in one IC and the RAM chip. When I tested the DC voltage on  
Pin 1 of that IC at the end of the Bridge Null section the voltage was 2.56  
V or something, below the spec'd 3-4 volts. I attributed this to the fact  
that R6 was already installed and just went on. Could that be a clue to the  
source of my trouble? Should that have read between 3 and 4 volts even with  
that resistor in there? I'm going to take it out and go through that  
process again tonight and see where that gets me.

Tom W0EA

On Jul 20, 2009 12:54pm, Tom Campie  wrote:
> I redid the C55 null (it was off by quite a bit now) but that did not  
> solve the problem. I re-initialized the tuner and retuned my non-50 ohm  
> load and my power readings were still way off. Worst on 40m. I'm taking  
> the balun off tonight, we'll see if that makes any difference. If not I  
> guess I'll have to go through and see if I can find any mistakes or  
> errors in the build. Any other ideas?


> Tom


> On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Tom Campie tom.cam...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I just realized something that may be throwing it off - I installed the  
> Elecraft 4:1 balun inside the rig and hard wired it to ANT 2 on the tuner  
> after I'd done the bridge null - is it possible that that has thrown off  
> that null and I am not actually getting a 50 ohm load to the front end?  
> I'll have to redo that tonight and report back.



> Thanks for the help so far.

> Tom


> On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 11:12 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com> wrote:


> Tom,



> That is exactly what I said. In CALP, if the load is anything other than  
> 50+j0, the power indication will be incorrect. In other words, the  
> requested power may not equal the actual power.



> When you go to AUTO and do a TUNE, the forward power should be close to  
> the requested power.




> 73,

> Don W3FPR



> Tom Campie wrote:


> I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP. With the tuner tuned to  
> a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the output power by  
> any definition of the word.



> Tom



> On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:






> Tom,



> No adjustment is required. In CALP state, the tuner must be working into  
> a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings. If you are connected to an  
> antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than 50+j0 impedance, you  
> can expect "unexpected" results.



> When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has done  
> its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out will be  
> as requested.



> 73,

> Don W3FPR



> Tom Campie wrote:




> This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found anything  
> on it yet:



> I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well calibrated  
> power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter. Now on 40m at home, I set  
> my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout. The tuner now reads 2.9w. Not  
> until I tune the requested power to 8 watts or so does the tuner say I'm  
> putting out 5 watts. Isn't there a way to adjust it so that the requested  
> power matches the tuner output power so that the S/ Power meter reads the  
> right value? That's the most annoying part...





> Tom

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> No virus found in this incoming message.

> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database:  
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[R. Kevin Stover]

That would be one heck of a tuner.
160m through 2m?
Some things you just can't do in firmware.


Grant Youngman wrote:
> Seems that would be a bit of a surprise 
>
> Grant/NQ5T
>   


-- 
R. Kevin Stover
ACØH

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Lyle Johnson]

> Will the new 144 MHz module be able to use the internal tuner

No, it uses a separate antenna connector for 2m.

73,

Lyle KK7P

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Mike Harris]

Hi Phil,

My understanding is that the 144MHz module routes to its own socket on the 
rear panel, independent of the internal tuner.

Regards,

Mike VP8NO

- Original Message - 
From: "Phil LaMarche" 
To: "'Elecraft_List'" 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 3:37 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3


| Will the new 144 MHz module be able to use the internal tuner, Please.
|
| Phil

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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Steve Ellington]

Indeed. I'm surprised it works so well on 6m. No way will it do 2m.
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Grant Youngman" 
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 3:53 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3


> Seems that would be a bit of a surprise 
> 
> Grant/NQ5T
> 
> 
> On Jul 20, 2009, at 2:37 PM, Phil LaMarche wrote:
> 
>> Will the new 144 MHz module be able to use the internal tuner, Please.
>>
>> Phil
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3

[Grant Youngman]

Seems that would be a bit of a surprise 

Grant/NQ5T


On Jul 20, 2009, at 2:37 PM, Phil LaMarche wrote:

> Will the new 144 MHz module be able to use the internal tuner, Please.
>
> Phil

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[Elecraft] K3

[Phil LaMarche]

Will the new 144 MHz module be able to use the internal tuner, Please.
 
Phil
 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
  www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com   
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 


 
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Updates and chatter

[N5GE]

sr...@swbell.net wrote:

It could be that they are working on firmware for the W2 and K144XV 
firmware.  They have said they will be shipping both in mid August.

N5GE
>   What has happened to the frequent K3 beta updates and all the
> chatter that accompanied them? I haven't kept up with the list very well but
> have noticed that content seems to be missing these days.
>
>
> Stan Rife 
> W5EWA 
>
>
>
>
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>   


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[Elecraft] Fiberglass poles

[Petr Ourednik]

Brett,

check by blog on http://topband.blog.cz/rubrika/antennas
where You will find a lot of infos about the different
types of poles from different manufacturers even incl.
the Germany ones...

73 - Petr, OK1RP
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft tuners

[Don Wilhelm]

Gil,

I am not sure how you would isolate the RF Grounds with an L Match 
tuner, but I have given consideration to building a sort of "dual 
KAT100" into an EC2 case.  One set of firmware to run both sets of 
relays and split the normal inductors into 2 halves and connect the 
capacitors from one board to another (relays would switch both sides of 
the capacitors to preserve balance).  The extra board would switch the 
inductors in on both sides of the circuit.  It would likely require the 
addition of a 1:1 balun after the wattmeter and before the LC circuits.  
I figure the additional KAT100 board would work well since most of the 
wiring is already laid out on the traces.  The grounding for the 
capacitors would have to be investigated but even if it required adding 
a bus wire for the capacitor commons, it should work.

Other than thinking about it, I have not put any effort into it - no 
need for a tuner here at this time and I have other irons in the fire.

73,
Don W3FPR

Gil Cross wrote:
> Has anyone isolated the rf grounds and made one of the tuners into a 
> balanced output. Or even attempted to do so.
>
> Gil K8EAG
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K3 Tuning Knob Wear

[Robert Beard]

Hi Guys,

I use the RIT knob for fast/coarse tuning.

In Config menus, set VFO OFS to On

Best regards,

Rob, N6VX

RadioRanch

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Final Trans Alignment

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Don't worry about frying things, but do keep the power low.  It will 
climb when you do the adjustment.  If it gets higher than 3 or 4 watts, 
either wiggle the power knob a bit and it will readjust or drop out of 
TUNE and re-enter and the power level will start out again at 2 watts.
Yes, you want to adjust the slugs for maximum power output - that is the 
correct setting.

73,
Don W3FPR

Mike Weir wrote:
> Good morning,
> I am at the last stage of the build and have just
> completed using the N-Gen to set up all the bands for the receiver Pre
> alignment stage and all went well. I am now at the final transmitter
> alignment stage and am using the internal watt meter. My question
> is as per the instructions I set the output to 2 watts. I then went
> to 80 meters and began to adjust L3 and L3 for max power. Now I am up
> around 3.5 watts. I stopped there and was wondering if I was just to go
> to the set 2 watts setting or am I to max out the power as high as I
> can go by adjusting L3 and L4?? Was not wanting to fry something though
> I would check before I go any farther. 
> Thanks for your time
> Mike Weir
> VE3WDM
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Tom Campie]

I redid the C55 null (it was off by quite a bit now) but that did not solve
the problem.  I re-initialized the tuner and retuned my non-50 ohm load and
my power readings were still way off.  Worst on 40m.  I'm taking the balun
off tonight, we'll see if that makes any difference.  If not I guess I'll
have to go through and see if I can find any mistakes or errors in the
build.  Any other ideas?

Tom


On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 9:51 AM, Tom Campie  wrote:

> I just realized something that may be throwing it off - I installed the
> Elecraft 4:1 balun inside the rig and hard wired it to ANT 2 on the tuner
> after I'd done the bridge null - is it possible that that has thrown off
> that null and I am not actually getting a 50 ohm load to the front end?
> I'll have to redo that tonight and report back.
>
> Thanks for the help so far.
>
> Tom
>
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 11:12 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>
>> Tom,
>>
>> That is exactly what I said.  In CALP, if the load is anything other than
>> 50+j0, the power indication will be incorrect.  In other words, the
>> requested power may not equal the actual power.
>>
>> When you go to AUTO and do a TUNE, the forward power should be close to
>> the requested power.
>>
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Tom Campie wrote:
>>
>>> I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP.  With the tuner tuned
>>>  to a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the output  power
>>> by any definition of the word.
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
 Tom,

 No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be working
  into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you are  connected to
 an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than  50+j0 impedance, you
 can expect "unexpected" results.
 When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has  done
 its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out  will be as
 requested.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Tom Campie wrote:


> This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found
> anything on it yet:
>
> I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well  calibrated
>  power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on  40m at home, I  
> set
> my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The  tuner now reads  2.9w.  
> Not
> until I tune the requested power to 8  watts or so does the  tuner say I'm
> putting out 5 watts.  Isn't  there a way to adjust it so  that the 
> requested
> power matches the  tuner output power so that the S/ Power meter reads the
> right  value?  That's the most annoying part...
>
> Tom
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>
>

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>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

If the balun was in the circuit when you did the null, the result will 
be WAY off.
The tuner must be looking into a good 50 ohm load when adjusting for the 
null.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom Campie wrote:
> I just realized something that may be throwing it off - I installed the
> Elecraft 4:1 balun inside the rig and hard wired it to ANT 2 on the tuner
> after I'd done the bridge null - is it possible that that has thrown off
> that null and I am not actually getting a 50 ohm load to the front end?
> I'll have to redo that tonight and report back.
>
> Thanks for the help so far.
>
> Tom
>
> On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 11:12 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
>   
>> Tom,
>>
>> That is exactly what I said.  In CALP, if the load is anything other than
>> 50+j0, the power indication will be incorrect.  In other words, the
>> requested power may not equal the actual power.
>>
>> When you go to AUTO and do a TUNE, the forward power should be close to the
>> requested power.
>>
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> Tom Campie wrote:
>>
>> 
>>> I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP.  With the tuner tuned  to
>>> a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the output  power by
>>> any definition of the word.
>>>
>>> Tom
>>>
>>> On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>   
 Tom,

 No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be working
  into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you are  connected to
 an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than  50+j0 impedance, you
 can expect "unexpected" results.
 When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has  done
 its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out  will be as
 requested.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Tom Campie wrote:


 
> This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found
> anything on it yet:
>
> I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well  calibrated
>  power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on  40m at home, I  
> set
> my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The  tuner now reads  2.9w.  
> Not
> until I tune the requested power to 8  watts or so does the  tuner say I'm
> putting out 5 watts.  Isn't  there a way to adjust it so  that the 
> requested
> power matches the  tuner output power so that the S/ Power meter reads the
> right  value?  That's the most annoying part...
>
> Tom
> __
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>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database:
>  270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00
>
>
>
>
>   
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Updates and chatter

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Summer time = vacation time.. ;-)

We're back now and hard at work.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ
---

> On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:21:57 -0500, sr...@swbell.net wrote:
>   
>> What has happened to the frequent K3 beta updates and all the
>> chatter that accompanied them? I haven't kept up with the list very well but
>> have noticed that content seems to be missing these days.
>>
>>
>> Stan Rife
>> W5EWA
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi Kieth,

Looks like you have a very early K3. In later runs of the main K3 tuning 
knob we added a small radius to the transition between the dimple edge 
and the front face of the knob that removes the sharp machined 90 degree 
edge. (A 90 degree transition makes it harder for the powder coat to 
adhere to the surface, especially if one's finger nail regularly drags 
across this transition while tuning.)

Contact pa...@elecraft.com and they will get you a new knob under warranty.

73, Eric  WA6HHQ



Keith Bainbridge  vk...@arach.net.au  wrote:
> I remember commenting about the wear to the main VFO knob finger dimple 
> on my K3 ( S/No 133 ) some time ago and being told there was something 
> in the offing to improve things?
> Is there any further update on this please?
> The paint has well and truly gone and as a result the radio looks " 2nd 
> hand"
> It certainly doesn't perform " 2nd hand" !
> Here in VK6 we dont have the advantage of Europe or NA , I'm lucky if I 
> hear a signal on 40 or 20 these days never mind "picking them out from 
> the interference " So the tuning knob gets a LOT of work.
> This is the penalty for living in the most isolated city on the planet.
> One day my K3 will come into its own from Perth , I just hope I live 
> long enough to experience my 3rd sunspot maxima !
> Cheers
> Keith
>
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Re: [Elecraft] T1 tuner balanced in/out

[Gil Cross]

Thanks but no thanks. Only balun I would consider would be at the 
input to the rf section and would be a 1-1 balun.

Gil



- Original Message - 
From: "Doug Phillips" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 12:12 PM
Subject: T1 tuner balanced in/out


> Gil try the BL2 kit from Elecraft, that is what I use with my T1 for 
> ladder line fed antennas.
>
> 73, Doug W7RDP
>
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Julian, G4ILO]

Keith Bainbridge-2 wrote:
> 
> I remember commenting about the wear to the main VFO knob finger dimple 
> on my K3 ( S/No 133 ) some time ago and being told there was something 
> in the offing to improve things?
> Is there any further update on this please?
> The paint has well and truly gone and as a result the radio looks " 2nd 
> hand"
> It certainly doesn't perform " 2nd hand" !
> Here in VK6 we dont have the advantage of Europe or NA , I'm lucky if I 
> hear a signal on 40 or 20 these days never mind "picking them out from 
> the interference " So the tuning knob gets a LOT of work.
> This is the penalty for living in the most isolated city on the planet.
> One day my K3 will come into its own from Perth , I just hope I live 
> long enough to experience my 3rd sunspot maxima !
> 

If your K3 is connected to a PC then you could tune it using a Griffin
PowerMate USB knob and my little KTune program. That would take some of the
wear and tear off the K3 tuning knob, plus you can put the knob right in
front of you which certainly saves my back by avoiding the need to lean
forward. The only disadvantage is Griffin PowerMates don't have a finger
dimple.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K3-tuning-knob-wear-tp3289227p3290338.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Updates and chatter

[Stewart Baker]

The Gurus must be working on some massive release of new firmware :-)

Stewart G3RXQ
On Mon, 20 Jul 2009 12:21:57 -0500, sr...@swbell.net wrote:
> What has happened to the frequent K3 beta updates and all the
> chatter that accompanied them? I haven't kept up with the list very well but
> have noticed that content seems to be missing these days.
>
>
> Stan Rife
> W5EWA
>
>
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[Elecraft] (K3) Updates and chatter

[srife]

What has happened to the frequent K3 beta updates and all the
chatter that accompanied them? I haven't kept up with the list very well but
have noticed that content seems to be missing these days.


Stan Rife 
W5EWA 




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[Elecraft] The weekness of a d'arsonval watt meter

[dw]

If I am correct, most manufactures claim a 10% tolerance on most
d'arsonval type watt meters.
I believe there are also some caveats.
That 10% is at a specified level of applied wattage, and of course
applied into a 50 ohm load.
This means that at 100 watts applied power, the meter can read +/- 10
watts.
This however, does not take into consideration the non-linearity
characteristics of a d'arsonval meter.
And so the manufacture will take a specific meter as his prototype and
mark various wattage readings up through its range.
And those physical points will become the template for the numbers
displayed behind the meter when it goes into mass production. 
If he is really fussy, he will take 10 of those meters on the prototype
bench, and record their physical readings and then make his template
based on the average of those ten prototype meters.

We then have to factor in the variance of tolerance for every d'arsonval
meter assembled into future boxes on the assembly line.
What we might end up with then, in the real world, is a meter, when
activated by the user, points to various numbers on its display with an
inaccuracy that may be 20% or more, based on its individual mechanical
response to various wattages up its range.

The d'arsonval meter is driven with a series resistor (usually a pot)
from the rectified power source.
A manufacture may be so inclined to visibly fix calibration pots with
the eye during the assembly process, and then spot check the meter with
100 watts applied.  If it falls within +/- 10 watts during the
spot-check.ship it..it meets its advertised accuracy.


This is where the micro-chip can give you an edge up.
The micro-chip can hold within its memory a table of values programed by
the user.
Remove the d'arsonval meter and its series-R and connect the
micro-chip's analog input instead.
As a calibrated applied wattage source is used, "teach" the micro-chip
how to interpret the voltages it sees as the wattage is increased up the
scale.
Now you have a watt meter that is calibrated at multiple points up its
scale instead of at a single spot-check point.
A microchip watt meter can then approximate the accuracy of the bird
watt meter.
Since ( I think this is true ) the bird meter is also rated at a certain
wattage point and that accuracy is (due to the use of a d'arsonval
meter) diminished below that wattage point.

Some day a smart ham is going to manufacture and sell a mico-chip based
watt-meter which the user can calibrate himself using a bird meter, or
better yet...an o-scope. 
Of course that is... if there is a marketable demand for higher accuracy
than currently exists.  :)
-- 
 bw...@fastmail.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Phil LaMarche]

    Several hams asked
about the rubber trim rings for the K3.  I have one and they are a perfect
fit and very nice to tune with.

Replacement rubber trim rings

Model 315 replacement rubber trim ring for Ten-Tec HF transceivers and
amplifiers. The new trim ring features a softer, better feel than the
existing 'car tire' used around the circumference of Ten-Tec main tuning
knobs since the 1980's. They (black version) are now being supplied as new
equipment on Ten-Tec HF transceivers. Can be used on the Omni-V, Omni-VI,
Omni-VII, Orion, Orion II, Paragon, Paragon II, Jupiter transceivers, the
Centaur, Centurion and Titan I/II/III amplifiers, and the 301 and 302 series
external tuning knobs. Sold as single units, for rigs or amps with two large
tuning knobs, order quantity of 2. Available in black, charcoal grey, light
blue, dark blue, orange, red, and glow-in-the-dark.

 

Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
  www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com   
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 


 

  _  

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Re: [Elecraft] Fiberglass Poles

[Jed Petrovich]

Brett:

MaxGain has a "hexbeam" kits available. There is a link at the top of their
main web page: http://www.mgs4u.com/index.html There are several options
available, including spreaders, element wire and UV rope. The sections are
cut specifically for the "broadband" version of the antenna. As such, they
can be shipped for "standard" UPS/FedEx Ground rates.

MG also has construction tips on their web site. Personally, I used the 3M
5200 Marine Fast Cure adhesive. I found a tube at my local Home Depot. The
adhesive takes 24 hours to cure. However, the adhesive was cured enough
after a few hours to allow me to start painting the spreaders. NOTE: I had
them laying on an extension ladder, covered with cardboard, so there wasn't
a lot of stress on the joints during the curing and painting process.

http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tips.htm

If you have any other questions, please let me know.

73,

Jed
AD7KG

On Mon, Jul 20, 2009 at 9:04 AM, Julius Fazekas n2wn
wrote:

>
> I just took down a 5 band quad I built from fiberglass tubes from MGS. They
> are still in excellent shape and I'd recommend them. The only problem might
> be shipping. I was lucky enough to have someone pick them up when MGS used
> to do Dayton.
>
> Make sure you follow the treatment instructions for fiberglass. Pick a good
> UV coating to seal and protect them, else they will start to break down in
> a
> year or two. I've been happy with Krylon UV Clear...
>
> Happy Building!
> 73,
> Julius
>
>
> Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
> >
> > Brett,
> >
> > Try http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm to see if they have
> > what you want.  If not, Google on Fiberglass tubing and you will find
> > many other resources.
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > Brett Howard wrote:
> >> Anyone have any good tips on where to pick up fiberglass spreader poles
> >> for the making of a hex beam?
> >>
> >> ~Brett
> >>
> >> __
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> >>
> >>
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> >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date:
> >> 07/19/09 05:57:00
> >>
> >>
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>
> -
> Julius Fazekas
> N2WN
>
> Tennessee Contest Group
> http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html
>
> Tennessee QSO Party
> http://www.tnqp.org/
>
> Elecraft K2/100 #4455
> Elecraft K3/100 #366
> Elecraft K3#1875
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://n2.nabble.com/Fiberglass-Poles-tp3286755p3289333.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] RFI using FSK and RF Grounding in RV

[Mark Cherry]

I would like to start off by saying, what a wonderful rig the K3 is,
having the time of my life!

Until recently, I have used AFSK up to 80 watts without issue.  I just
built a one transistor keying circuit for FSK using Writelog and it
works just fine up to 5 watts.  After that the keying of the rig is a
constant tone, rather than shifted.  The laptop continues sending
properly.  I have routed all control/audio interconnects off the left
side of the K3, under the table and back up to the laptop, staying as
far from the antenna cables as possible as well.  This 'fix' bought me
an extra 15 watts, now I am good to 20 watts!

I have determined (correctly I think) that it is an RFI issue, but
can't seem to beat it.  If I go back to AFSK, no problem.  I have
ferrite cores on every line from computer to rig, at both ends and the
laptop is grounded to the radio.  Any suggestions would be greatly
appreciated.

My big issue is RF ground for the rig in an RV.  I am currently setup
in my 5th wheel and do not have a great way to ground without running
a 30' wire back to the power pedestal and it's ground point!  Any
suggestions on this?

Thanks everyone for your time reading and maybe helping!

--
Mark - WT6P
Kingman, AZ
Brenda, AZ
wt6pm...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft tuners

[list1]

Hi Gil and All,
I never thought of doing that with my KAT2.  I just finished building
another balanced tuner.  I wonder it will fit in the K2.  Naw I'll just
use the KAT2 with a balun.
http://tinyurl.com/nznphf

72,
Steve, W2MY

-Original Message-
Behalf Of Gil Cross
Has anyone isolated the rf grounds and made one of the tuners into a
balanced output. Or even attempted to do so.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Diversity Rocks!

[Björn Mohr]

On 19 jul 2009, at 01.56, Bill W4ZV wrote:

>>
>> Recording: http://sm0mdg.com/audio/4X4DK-div.mp3
>>
>
> Nice recording Bjorn!  I've often heard signals switching just as you
> recorded but don't have a recorder hooked up on my shack computer.
>
> I'm just curious how your AGC was set (Fast or Slow)?  It sounded  
> like a
> slow recovery to the lightning crash near the beginning.

Bill,

To be honest I don't remember the AGC S/F setting when recording this,  
it is some time ago. I trust your judgement on slow AGC. What I do  
know is that the config menu settings for AGC would have been default  
at that time. But this might be a good season to play with AGC  
settings as static is high at the moment.

73 de Björn,
SM0MDG
SE0X

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[Elecraft] K2 Final Trans Alignment

[Mike Weir]

Good morning,
I am at the last stage of the build and have just
completed using the N-Gen to set up all the bands for the receiver Pre
alignment stage and all went well. I am now at the final transmitter
alignment stage and am using the internal watt meter. My question
is as per the instructions I set the output to 2 watts. I then went
to 80 meters and began to adjust L3 and L3 for max power. Now I am up
around 3.5 watts. I stopped there and was wondering if I was just to go
to the set 2 watts setting or am I to max out the power as high as I
can go by adjusting L3 and L4?? Was not wanting to fry something though
I would check before I go any farther. 
Thanks for your time
Mike Weir
VE3WDM
_
More storage. Better anti-spam and antivirus protection. Hotmail makes it 
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Re: [Elecraft] Need a resistor?

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

Wanna trade Greg?

Can probably do the same with trimpots and caps... It has come in handy from
time to time.

The cabinets were worth the purchase!

73,
Julius


Greg - AB7R wrote:
> 
> If someone finds themselves in need of some off the wall resistor let  
> me know...I may have one.  I went to a garage sale (more like a block  
> sale) in Anacortes Saturday morning and found 3 parts cabinets chock  
> full of resistors.  The parts drawers are even labeled.  :)  There's  
> gotta be a couple thousand resistor in all.
> 
> 73
> Greg
> AB7R
> 
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> 


-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Need-a-resistor--tp3285307p3289361.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fiberglass Poles

[Julius Fazekas n2wn]

I just took down a 5 band quad I built from fiberglass tubes from MGS. They
are still in excellent shape and I'd recommend them. The only problem might
be shipping. I was lucky enough to have someone pick them up when MGS used
to do Dayton.

Make sure you follow the treatment instructions for fiberglass. Pick a good
UV coating to seal and protect them, else they will start to break down in a
year or two. I've been happy with Krylon UV Clear...

Happy Building!
73,
Julius
 

Don Wilhelm-4 wrote:
> 
> Brett,
> 
> Try http://www.mgs4u.com/fiberglass-tube-rod.htm to see if they have 
> what you want.  If not, Google on Fiberglass tubing and you will find 
> many other resources.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> Brett Howard wrote:
>> Anyone have any good tips on where to pick up fiberglass spreader poles
>> for the making of a hex beam?
>>
>> ~Brett
>>
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>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
>> Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date:
>> 07/19/09 05:57:00
>>
>>   
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> 


-
Julius Fazekas
N2WN

Tennessee Contest Group
http://www.k4ro.net/tcg/index.html

Tennessee QSO Party
http://www.tnqp.org/

Elecraft K2/100 #4455
Elecraft K3/100 #366
Elecraft K3#1875
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/Fiberglass-Poles-tp3286755p3289333.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Steve Ellington]

Kieth:
I can't help with the knob but you do need an LP-Pan so you can see what's 
on the band without wearing out your finger.
Steve
N4LQ
n...@carolina.rr.com
- Original Message - 
From: "Keith Bainbridge" 
To: 
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 10:44 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear


>I remember commenting about the wear to the main VFO knob finger dimple
> on my K3 ( S/No 133 ) some time ago and being told there was something
> in the offing to improve things?
> Is there any further update on this please?
> The paint has well and truly gone and as a result the radio looks " 2nd
> hand"
> It certainly doesn't perform " 2nd hand" !
> Here in VK6 we dont have the advantage of Europe or NA , I'm lucky if I
> hear a signal on 40 or 20 these days never mind "picking them out from
> the interference " So the tuning knob gets a LOT of work.
> This is the penalty for living in the most isolated city on the planet.
> One day my K3 will come into its own from Perth , I just hope I live
> long enough to experience my 3rd sunspot maxima !
> Cheers
> Keith
>
> -- 
> Keith
> R K Bainbridge
> VK6RK/ VK6XH
> http://vk6rk.blogspot.com
> Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6NC /VK6ANC
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[Elecraft] Elecraft tuners

[Gil Cross]

Has anyone isolated the rf grounds and made one of the tuners into a 
balanced output. Or even attempted to do so.

Gil K8EAG
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Phil LaMarche]

Email Elecraft and they will replace the knob at n/c.  I ordered a rubber
ring from Ten Tec to go over the knob for a better feel.  Really nice.

Phil 


Philip LaMarche 
LaMarche Enterprises, Inc.
www.instantgourmetspices.com

www.w9dvm.com 
800-395-7795 pin 02 
727-944-3226 
FAX 727-937-8834 
NASFT 30210 

K3  #1605

CCA 98  00827
CRA 1701

W9DVM 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Keith Bainbridge
Sent: Monday, July 20, 2009 10:45 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

I remember commenting about the wear to the main VFO knob finger dimple on
my K3 ( S/No 133 ) some time ago and being told there was something in the
offing to improve things?
Is there any further update on this please?
The paint has well and truly gone and as a result the radio looks " 2nd
hand"
It certainly doesn't perform " 2nd hand" !
Here in VK6 we dont have the advantage of Europe or NA , I'm lucky if I hear
a signal on 40 or 20 these days never mind "picking them out from the
interference " So the tuning knob gets a LOT of work.
This is the penalty for living in the most isolated city on the planet.
One day my K3 will come into its own from Perth , I just hope I live long
enough to experience my 3rd sunspot maxima !
Cheers
Keith

--
Keith
R K Bainbridge
VK6RK/ VK6XH
http://vk6rk.blogspot.com
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6NC /VK6ANC
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Tom Campie]

I just realized something that may be throwing it off - I installed the
Elecraft 4:1 balun inside the rig and hard wired it to ANT 2 on the tuner
after I'd done the bridge null - is it possible that that has thrown off
that null and I am not actually getting a 50 ohm load to the front end?
I'll have to redo that tonight and report back.

Thanks for the help so far.

Tom

On Sun, Jul 19, 2009 at 11:12 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> That is exactly what I said.  In CALP, if the load is anything other than
> 50+j0, the power indication will be incorrect.  In other words, the
> requested power may not equal the actual power.
>
> When you go to AUTO and do a TUNE, the forward power should be close to the
> requested power.
>
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Tom Campie wrote:
>
>> I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP.  With the tuner tuned  to
>> a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the output  power by
>> any definition of the word.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>> Tom,
>>>
>>> No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be working
>>>  into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you are  connected to
>>> an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other than  50+j0 impedance, you
>>> can expect "unexpected" results.
>>> When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has  done
>>> its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power out  will be as
>>> requested.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> Tom Campie wrote:
>>>
>>>
 This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found
 anything on it yet:

 I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well  calibrated
  power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now on  40m at home, I  set
 my power control to 5w and tuner to Pout.  The  tuner now reads  2.9w.  Not
 until I tune the requested power to 8  watts or so does the  tuner say I'm
 putting out 5 watts.  Isn't  there a way to adjust it so  that the 
 requested
 power matches the  tuner output power so that the S/ Power meter reads the
 right  value?  That's the most annoying part...

 Tom
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database:
  270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00




>>>
>> __
>> Elecraft mailing list
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>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database:
>> 270.13.20/2248 - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00
>>
>>
>>
>
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[Elecraft] K3 tuning knob wear

[Keith Bainbridge]

I remember commenting about the wear to the main VFO knob finger dimple 
on my K3 ( S/No 133 ) some time ago and being told there was something 
in the offing to improve things?
Is there any further update on this please?
The paint has well and truly gone and as a result the radio looks " 2nd 
hand"
It certainly doesn't perform " 2nd hand" !
Here in VK6 we dont have the advantage of Europe or NA , I'm lucky if I 
hear a signal on 40 or 20 these days never mind "picking them out from 
the interference " So the tuning knob gets a LOT of work.
This is the penalty for living in the most isolated city on the planet.
One day my K3 will come into its own from Perth , I just hope I live 
long enough to experience my 3rd sunspot maxima !
Cheers
Keith

-- 
Keith
R K Bainbridge
VK6RK/ VK6XH
http://vk6rk.blogspot.com
Northern Corridor Radio Group Inc VK6NC /VK6ANC
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[Elecraft] K3 - RFI on FSK and RV Grounding

[Mark Cherry]

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Power meter

[Tom Campie]

Like I said before, the requested power is nowhere near the power read  
by the tuner when tuned to a non-50 ohm load. But I am certain of the  
calibration of the tuner meter and when it says it is putting out 5  
watts, the current draw is about 1.75 amps as I have confirmed with  
other K2 owners to be the draw at 5 watts.

There's some weirdness going on somewhere, that is for sure.

Tom

On Jul 19, 2009, at 11:12 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> That is exactly what I said.  In CALP, if the load is anything other  
> than 50+j0, the power indication will be incorrect.  In other words,  
> the requested power may not equal the actual power.
>
> When you go to AUTO and do a TUNE, the forward power should be close  
> to the requested power.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> Tom Campie wrote:
>> I calibrated the tuner to a 50 ohm load on CALP.  With the tuner  
>> tuned  to a non-50 Ohm load, the requested power does not match the  
>> output  power by any definition of the word.
>>
>> Tom
>>
>> On Jul 19, 2009, at 9:48 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>>
>>
>>> Tom,
>>>
>>> No adjustment is required.  In CALP state, the tuner must be  
>>> working  into a 50 ohm load for accurate power readings.  If you  
>>> are  connected to an antenna that has a feedpoint impedance other  
>>> than  50+j0 impedance, you can expect "unexpected" results.
>>> When you change the ATU menu to Auto and do a TUNE, the tuner has   
>>> done its job of providing a 50 ohm match to the K2 and the power  
>>> out  will be as requested.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>> Tom Campie wrote:
>>>
 This has been beaten over and over I think but I haven't found
 anything on it yet:

 I just got back from the lab at work and used a very well   
 calibrated  power meter to calibrate my KAT2 power meter.  Now  
 on  40m at home, I  set my power control to 5w and tuner to  
 Pout.  The  tuner now reads  2.9w.  Not until I tune the  
 requested power to 8  watts or so does the  tuner say I'm putting  
 out 5 watts.  Isn't  there a way to adjust it so  that the  
 requested power matches the  tuner output power so that the S/  
 Power meter reads the right  value?  That's the most annoying  
 part...

 Tom
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 --- 
 --- 
 --


 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database:  
 270.13.20/2248 
  - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00



>>
>> __
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>> --- 
>> -
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.375 / Virus Database: 
>> 270.13.20/2248 
>>  - Release Date: 07/19/09 05:57:00
>>
>>
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