Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread GW0ETF

Volker,

It only makes sense to buy factory built if you buy the K3 with all the
possible modules fitted otherwise you will be dis-assembling the radio to
fit other modules at some later date. A design philosophy of the K3 is being
able to buy the basic unit and upgrade as you can afford it or as the
dollar/euro/sterling rate becomes more favourable! Field upgrading is just
an extension of the kit rationale.

I bought #145 as a kit back in July 2007 and had to wait many months for the
second receiver which required a significant refit. Being an early unit I
have fitted several uprades and have had to replace a faulty main dsp board
too; knowing how it all went together in the first place made all this
straightforward and easy to do. 

So if you have the time and don't have visual or physical impairment it's
not a problem at all. There's the extra security of knowing that the
finished unit has been tested in Aptos but even if/when a problem does arise
you will be talked through it step by step and receive board swaps as
necessary in a manner probably unique to Elecraft. My DSP board problem was
a minor one linked to the second rx and was sorted quickly and efficiently
but it did require me to swap out a couple of boards which were sent from
Aptos.

We are after all 'Radio Amateurs' so we shouldn't really have a problem with
screwdrivers and ESD mats, should we??

73,

Stewart Rolfe, GW0ETF


quot;Volker Wächterquot; wrote:
 
 Hello @ all,
 
 I do not know what most of you did.
 As many others, I am also interested in a K3 Trx.
 
 what do you recommend ?
 
 do-it yourself an purchase a kit, or buy it ready for use ?
 
 as far as I know, elecreft points out that a complete ESD equipment is 
 strictly recommended.
 
 what did you do ?
 
 73 de Volker, DD1VW
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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Julian, G4ILO

I'd recommend the kit too, for the reasons others have stated.

The cost of the electrostatic mat, I seem to recall, was about 20 Euro. The
only test equipment you need is a DMM, an accurate power meter and
(optionally but very useful) a calibrated signal generator for doing the S
meter calibration.

The DMM I used was about 10 Euro, and perfectly adequate for this
application.

For the power calibration I used the Elecraft DL1. Though only rated for 20W
it is perfectly capable of taking 50W for a couple of seconds at a time -
long enough to get the voltage reading from which you can calculate the
power. This is probably more accurate than the average ham-grade power
meter.

For the receiver alignment I used the Elecraft XG1. This has now been
replaced by the XG2 which covers 3 bands and is a bit more expensive.

Even if you have to buy all 3 items of test equipment plus the anti-static
mat the cost will still be about half the money you saved buying the kit
version. 

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread DK4XL

Hi Volker,

buy the kit - it is absolutely no problem to build it,
you should of course use an ESD equipment but it's
worth to buy one. Write me a PN and we can discuss
it in german. I built two K3s, it was a lot of fun and
they work 100%.

Martin
DK4XL
K3 #2199


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Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread James Sarte
I built my K3.  I enjoyed the process tremendously.  While it's not a true
kit per se, assembling it one's self does have some benefits.  Apart from
saving a few bucks - especially if you already have the tools as I did - you
get to see how well the rig was designed.  It also instills some confidence
in trouble shooting or replacing components should that need arise.

In my case, I did not have any problems after assembly.  The radio worked as
it should, and passed all calibration procedures without incident.  Only
months after assembly did I have a component fail; Elecraft was very quick
to ship a replacement.  I did not have to send the radio back to perform the
repair as I was already familiar and comfortable with assembly and
disassembly to perform the swap myself.

73 and Merry Christmas,
James K2QI

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[Elecraft] KANT3- FREE

2009-12-21 Thread H. Cary III
I installed the KAT3 Internal ATU in my K3 during the blizzard of 2009.
I now have the KANT3 Antenna Input Module that I no longer need.
If anyone needs one, I'll ship it to you - CONUS ONLY - at no charge to you.
73  Merry Christmas,
H Cary, K4TM
LYNCHBURG, VA 
K3-100 #3491, K2-100 #4991


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[Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread Ken Chandler
Hi
I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have  
a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard  
with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and  
my note was still there.
Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.
My tests were on cw, and my tester was less than 1/2 mile away.
Any ideas!!!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net results (12-20-09)

2009-12-21 Thread Dave, W8OV
Phil, the Reflector is getting out of control.  While waiting for the 
SSB net to begin I began reading mail on the Reflector.  When I next 
looked at the time, and listened, the net was over.  I need a Q-signal 
for Reflector interference, say QRI, perhaps.

Sorry I didn't make it,

Dave, W8OV

On 12/20/2009 9:52 PM, Phil and Christina wrote:
 The net today had 19 participants again.
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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread John Lemay
Ken

I wonder how big the signal was in his receiver? Sounds like it could be
overload at the other end.

Do you have another rig in your shack that you could do the same test with a
local ?

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Chandler
Sent: 21 December 2009 15:13
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Spurious

Hi
I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have  
a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard  
with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and  
my note was still there.
Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.
My tests were on cw, and my tester was less than 1/2 mile away.
Any ideas!!!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread David Pratt
I am getting something similar, Ken, but on 4455kHz. That is 696kHz 
above 3759kHz, with all powers from 0.1 to 100W.  It is quite strong on 
my local receiver but I don't know how far it is radiating.

73 de David G4DMP


In a recent message, Ken Chandler g0...@sky.com wrote ...
I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have
a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard
with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and
my note was still there.
Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.
My tests were on cw, and my tester was less than 1/2 mile away.
Any ideas!!!
-- 
+- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -+
| David M Pratt G4DMP, Kippax, Leeds, UK  |
| K1 #1117; KX1 #0052; K2 #1583; K3 #0186 |
+- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -+



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Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread David Y.
Phil,

You will probably get a lot of opinions both ways.  Those who spent the 
extra money for factory built probably did so for good reason, and are 
glad they did.  Most (nearly all?) who opted to do the kit, are probably 
just as glad they saved the $200!

All I can add is that doing the kit is not nearly as bad as you might think. 
After all, it's more of an assembly process than a build.  There is no 
comparison to to a K3 kit vs. a K2 kit.  There is no soldering--only 
interconnection of various boards.  However, if you feel you are a little 
light on dexterity, which can be for a number of good reasons, then by all 
means spend the extra money for a factory built unit.

The K3 is very well made, and everything fits together very neatly.  Only 
one or two steps really require anything that might be considered 
manipulation, and those steps are really very well described in the 
manual.  Early kits may have had a slightly more difficult process, but with 
3,000 of these rigs out there now, I think any such issues have been 
resolved.  In my view, the only difficult part was making sure that the 
three or four interconnecting cables inside the rig were properly seated. 
Otherwise, it is pretty much a matter of just mounting boards, and putting 
in a bunch of screws.  It's basically modular construction--just like 
assembly of a computer--maybe not even that difficult.

Dave W7AQK


- Original Message - 
From: Phil Hystad k7...@comcast.net
To: w...@msn.com
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector' elecraft@mailman.qth.net; 'Dave Hachadorian' 
k...@arrl.net
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:40 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use


I would like to see more comments from K3 kit builders to counter these
 points being made here.

 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering 
 if
 the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the learning 
 experience
 when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems.

 If the kit cost versus factory built cost were different by a wider margin 
 it would
 be an easier decision.

 phil, K7PEH


 On Dec 20, 2009, at 6:27 PM, Ed Muns wrote:

 This is an important point and one that should be considered in the 
 decision
 to get the factory-built K3 or the kit.  Actually the sub-assemblies are
 tested as individual units.  But the set of sub-assemblies in a kit have 
 not
 been tested together as a system.  The factory system tests are more
 rigorous than what most of us can do with the kit and certainly more
 rigorous than the kit instructions provide.  And, while rare, it is 
 possible
 that sub-assembly tolerances can combine in a way that causes a system
 problem.  (However, most, if not all, of such system issues are resolved 
 via
 email or phone with Elecraft support.)

 So the key considerations are money saved and K3 learning vs. the value 
 of
 the factory system testing.  Of course, you can always send your kit K3 
 to
 the factory for the system test but that is likely to be more expensive 
 than
 getting the factory-built unit in the first place.

 Ed - W0YK
 ---
 Ed Muns
 Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com
 FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard

 K6LL wrote:
 I recommend that you buy it factory-built, at least for the
 basic unit.

 I have two K3's.  One I bought second-hand, and one I built.
 The one I built had a missing major part, which caused a
 delay, and then didn't work when it was finished. It turned
 out that there was an unsoldered component on the
 motherboard, which was undetectable in factory subassembly testing.

 Although you save $200 by building it yourself, you really
 don't learn much in the process, and you have to spend about
 $25 for an ESD mat. If you have to ship it back to the
 factory, it will cost you $50 in the USA, and much more from overseas.

 There is no substitute for the final system tests that the
 factory-assembled units get. Subassemblies are not tested 100%.

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Help: 

Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread ken chandler
Hi
My previous was the FT2000D which is sold. I had no problems with that radio
or any other radio. At 100w at my tester the signal strength is 60db over s9
on my TX freq, es 10db over s9 600hz up!!

Ken..G0ORH


-Original Message-
From: John Lemay [mailto:j...@carltonhouse.eclipse.co.uk] 
Sent: 21 December 2009 15:34
To: 'Ken Chandler'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Spurious

Ken

I wonder how big the signal was in his receiver? Sounds like it could be
overload at the other end.

Do you have another rig in your shack that you could do the same test with a
local ?

John G4ZTR

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ken Chandler
Sent: 21 December 2009 15:13
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Spurious

Hi
I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have  
a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard  
with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and  
my note was still there.
Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.
My tests were on cw, and my tester was less than 1/2 mile away.
Any ideas!!!

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone



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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread Joe Planisky
Hi Ken,

 Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.


Note that the published specifications for the K3 say:

Harmonic and Spurious:  50 dB below Carrier (100W) typical.

So depending on which side of 50dB your spur is, it may be nothing to  
worry about.

73
--
Joe KB8AP

On Dec 21, 2009, at 7:13 AM, Ken Chandler wrote:

 Hi
 I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have
 a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard
 with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and
 my note was still there.
 Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.
 My tests were on cw, and my tester was less than 1/2 mile away.
 Any ideas!!!

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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread Dick Grolleman
Please have a look ar Applications notes on the elecraft website There is an 
allert on Spurios TX

73 de Dick PA3FQA

- Original Message - 
From: Joe Planisky jp...@jeffnet.org
To: Ken Chandler g0...@sky.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 4:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Spurious


 Hi Ken,

 Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.


 Note that the published specifications for the K3 say:

 Harmonic and Spurious:  50 dB below Carrier (100W) typical.

 So depending on which side of 50dB your spur is, it may be nothing to
 worry about.

 73
 --
 Joe KB8AP

 On Dec 21, 2009, at 7:13 AM, Ken Chandler wrote:

 Hi
 I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have
 a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard
 with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and
 my note was still there.
 Signal level on the spurious was aprox 50db down.
 My tests were on cw, and my tester was less than 1/2 mile away.
 Any ideas!!!

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[Elecraft] K3 to ALS600 Amplifier

2009-12-21 Thread w4grj

I am hooking up my new K3 to a ALS600 and would appreciate comments from
anyone with this combo concerning connecting without ALC control and any
relay delay settings in the K3

Jack W4GRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to ALS600 Amplifier

2009-12-21 Thread Steven Pituch
Using K3 + ALS600.  About 40 Watts in gets about 425 Watts out from 2.3 to
4.1 MHz.  No ALC. TX DLY = 020. 

Steve, W2MY

-Original Message-
 On Behalf Of w4grj
I am hooking up my new K3 to a ALS600 and would appreciate comments from
anyone with this combo concerning connecting without ALC control and any
relay delay settings in the K3

Jack W4GRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Bill W4ZV



Phil Hystad wrote:
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if
 the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the learning
 experience
 when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems.
 

1.  You've already spent more time reading and writing emails on this list
than the K3 takes to assemble.
2.  Some are using $200 for the cost differential.  For the record it's:

K3/100 - $250
KAT3 - $30
KRX3 - $50

I've built 3 units with few problems and Elecraft support is absolutely
phenomenal if you do have problems.  Building your own unit will give you
confidence to make inevitable update mods.  I've made 10 to #1361 and 7 to
#2183 so both units are completely updated except for the much-discussed DSP
exchange (which I'm still undecided on).

73,  Bill

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Paul Christensen
Phil,

Building the K3 will likely make future hardware changes easier to implement 
since you will have recognized key circuit board areas and have an 
understanding of the assembly/disassembly process.

Getting in and back out of the K3 is very easy.  By contrast, the 
disassembly of my previously-owned IC-7800 required removal of over a 
half-dozen different screw types with varying lengths.  That created a 
nightmare situation if one of those screws was installed incorrectly.

Paul, W9AC

 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the 
 learning
 experience when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems. 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:45:11 -0800 (PST), Bill W4ZV
btipp...@alum.mit.edu wrote:

Bill is correct about building your own.  Both of my K3's are factory
built #806 and #1055.  #1055 was a trade with a guy who wanted my
Orion II.

If I ever BUY another one I'll build it for the reasons Bill gave.

73,

Tom, N5GE

n...@n5ge.com
K3 #806 with SUB RX, K3 #1055, PR6,
XV144, XV432, KRC2,
W1, 2 W2's and other small kits

1 K144XV on order

http://www.n5ge.com
http://www.swotrc.net




Phil Hystad wrote:
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if
 the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the learning
 experience
 when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems.
 

1.  You've already spent more time reading and writing emails on this list
than the K3 takes to assemble.
2.  Some are using $200 for the cost differential.  For the record it's:

K3/100 - $250
KAT3 - $30
KRX3 - $50

I've built 3 units with few problems and Elecraft support is absolutely
phenomenal if you do have problems.  Building your own unit will give you
confidence to make inevitable update mods.  I've made 10 to #1361 and 7 to
#2183 so both units are completely updated except for the much-discussed DSP
exchange (which I'm still undecided on).

73,  Bill

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[Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built

2009-12-21 Thread Bob DeHaney
I did the kit.

From the practical side, it's nice to know how it goes together if you have
to add something like the 2 Meters expansion, or add a filter, or do a mod,
or send a module back to Elecraft.

From the fun side it's nice to see all the bits disappearing and a K3
growing on the dining table.

You do risk certain looks and comments from the lady of the house if you
aren't moving along ;-)

Vy 73, Bob DJ0MBC/WU5T





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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Kit or Factory Built

2009-12-21 Thread Merv Schweigert
I would encourage going the kit route if a person has any ability at all. 
Its very simple to build following instructions, and took me about 6 hours.
I was pleased with the fit of parts and panels and how fast the radio
went together.  And as many have said it makes upgrading or changing
boards a lot more friendly if you have seen the insides apart before. 
For my 200 bucks I added a CW filter and transverter card.
Factory built is a real good deal for guys who dont have time or ability,
so both sides come out on top.  Performance is the same either way.
Merv KH7C
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Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Jim Brown
On Sun, 20 Dec 2009 22:03:49 +0100, Volker W„chter wrote:

as far as I know, elecreft points out that a complete ESD equipment is 
strictly recommended.

Yes, it is, and it is most critical in cold climates in the winter. But 
that ESD kit can be limited to a wrist strap and a conductive mat. It 
also helps to do your assembly work in a part of your home where ESD is 
minimal (for example, avoid carpets and upholstered furniture). 

I built two K3s, and I'm quite happy that I did. About 10 hours for the 
first one, 8 hours for the second one. The savings is considerable. 
You're simply fitting boards and chassis pieces together. No soldering. 
A few voltmeter and ohmmeter readings to verify that all is well. All 
of the boards are thoroughly tested at the factory. The only tricky 
part is fitting together some multi-pin connectors associated with the 
front panel, and the instructions provide entirely adequate guidance. 
The second receiver is also a bit of a close fit. If you're old and 
feeble, or have some sort of physical handicap, you could enlist the 
support of another person without that handicap for these tasks. 

Bottom line -- I STRONGLY recommend buying the K3 in kit form. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] ANT 1 / ANT 2 different power settings

2009-12-21 Thread w4grj

Is there any way to have the K3 remember different power settings for ANT 1 
ANT 2 ?

Thanks,
Jack
W4GRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to ALS600 Amplifier

2009-12-21 Thread Jim Brown
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 08:20:32 -0800 (PST), w4grj wrote:

I am hooking up my new K3 to a ALS600 and would appreciate comments from
anyone with this combo concerning connecting without ALC control and any
relay delay settings in the K3

In general, ALC should NEVER be used to set drive level -- doing so will 
generally cause MASSIVE splatter and clicks. I have no experience with the 
ALS600, but I've used my K2/100, K3/100, TS850, and Omni V to drive Ten Tec 
Titans (tubes), Herc I (solid state), and Herc II (solid state) power amps. 

1) There IS a delay built into the K3's circuitry that keys the power amp. 
The delay is adjustable, and the defalut settings work very well with most 
amps. You can easily change the delay with a menu setting. 

2) To set the power level, simply start with low output from the K3 (I'd 
start with 10-20 watts) and bring up the output power of the K3 (using the 
Power knob) until you hit the recommended power output of the amp. My Ten 
Tec amps all produce full power with less than 50 watts drive. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] KANT3

2009-12-21 Thread H. Cary III
The KANT3 is on its way to Rhode Island.
Thanks to all who replied. 
73 and Holiday wishes,
H Cary, K4TM


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Phil Hystad
Lots of people have responded to my question and I feel that it is not really 
necessary to drag this out.  I was sort of looking to see if there were more 
people who had problems after building the K3 but due to flaws in individual 
component boards due to the fact that an integrated K3 could not be tested 
prior to shipment as a kit.  This kind of problem was raised by two earlier 
posts (I think around Friday and Saturday) and that is what prompted my 
question.

But, no one came back and mentioned problems like that so I suspect that it is 
not an issue and these other posts were rare events.

Yes, I am 99.9% sure I will buy a kit and not the factory built K3.  But, I was 
always 99.9% sure of ordering the kit version.

phil


On Dec 21, 2009, at 8:56 AM, Paul Christensen wrote:

 Phil,
 
 Building the K3 will likely make future hardware changes easier to implement 
 since you will have recognized key circuit board areas and have an 
 understanding of the assembly/disassembly process.
 
 Getting in and back out of the K3 is very easy.  By contrast, the 
 disassembly of my previously-owned IC-7800 required removal of over a 
 half-dozen different screw types with varying lengths.  That created a 
 nightmare situation if one of those screws was installed incorrectly.
 
 Paul, W9AC
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that is
 holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when I can
 spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit wondering
 if the cost differential of kit versus factory built is worth the 
 learning
 experience when you contrast that with the hassles of potential problems. 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] Q

2009-12-21 Thread Terry Schieler
Just how did this post get in here?  Isn't this the Noisy K3 Receiver
forum.  ;o)

Terry, WØFM

(sorry David)

-Original Message-
From: David [mailto:david_clo...@bigpond.com] 
Sent: Saturday, December 19, 2009 5:12 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Q

Hi,I am building the K2 and the control board is done and checks out
fine.The Front Panel is done but in the check list of J1 pins 1-20 pins 1-7
show 0 ohms pin 8 shows .12 ohms pin 9   0 ohms this is not consistent with
checklist all else checks out ok , solder looks good no solder bridges could
please make a suggestion David


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Re: [Elecraft] [K3] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread Larry - K2GN
I always enjoyed building kits and was looking forward to building a K3.
But my plans were altered by health issues and I had to go factory built.
And I found out 3 weeks ago when I tried to install the DVR option that it 
was a god move.
Had real trouble just opening the radio up with 1 1/2 hands.
A mini stroke took away partial use of one hand. I buttoned the radio back 
up.
Now if I could only get my health insurance to cover the cost, I'd ship it 
out to have it done
I hope no more hardware mods come out that I would need, but...  that's 
progress.

Happy Holidays to all.
de K2GN/Larry
K3 - S/N 3278

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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread Jim Brown
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 15:13:05 +, Ken Chandler wrote:

I've just done some tests with my k3 sn 3759 and have been told I have  
a spurious signal 600Hz above my tx frequency. It was at first heard  
with my amp on but I switched out the amp and ran the k3 with 100w and  
my note was still there.

What transmit frequency? Did you have your internal speaker turned on?  
During the recent ARRL 10M contest, several NCCC members observed spurs 
on each others signals and reported it to Elecraft. I'm told that the 
cause is acoustic coupling between the speaker and the synthesizer board, 
and that the amplitude of the spur is greater on the higher bands. 
Elecraft is intimately aware of the issue, and is working on it at the 
highest levels. 

Obviously, the strength of the spur will be proportional to loudness of 
the speaker (on TX, the sidetone setting), and can be eliminated by 
turning off the speaker. 

BTW -- one reason these spurs are more obvious is that the K3 produces 
very little phase noise to mask them. In general, other rigs (including 
many that are much higher priced) produce a lot more trash. 

73,

Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use

2009-12-21 Thread W0MU Mike Fatchett
I enjoyed building my two K3's.  To me it adds to the radio and the
experience.  It is not overly difficult to build.  I have a bit more
invested in my radio's than just some $$$.

Like Ed and Dave, I can easily see the value of buying the built radio.  The
cost of assembly was not a factor in my case.

Mike W0MU 


CC Packet Cluster W0MU-1
W0MU.NET or  67.40.148.194

A slip of the foot you may soon recover, but a slip of the tongue you may
never get over. Ben Franklin 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed Muns
Sent: Sunday, December 20, 2009 7:57 PM
To: 'Phil Hystad'
Cc: 'Elecraft Reflector'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use

Hi, Phil.  The vast majority of K3 kits are assembled with no problems.
K6LL's experience is rare.  I personally value the kit building experience
more than Dave indicated.  OTOH, I can also see the comfort in the integrity
of a factory-built/tested K3.  So, it really comes down to each individual's
preferences and what they each value as most important.  There is not a
single right answer for everyone.

The point that Dave and I are making is that saving some cost on the kit is
not the only consideration.  The value of the factory-built K3s is not just
the assembly time and labor but also the system testing.

Ed - W0YK
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard 

 -Original Message-
 From: Phil Hystad [mailto:k7...@comcast.net]
 Sent: Sunday, 20 December, 2009 18:40
 To: w...@msn.com
 Cc: 'Dave Hachadorian'; 'Elecraft Reflector'
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kit building or buy ready for use
 
 I would like to see more comments from K3 kit builders to counter 
 these points being made here.
 
 I am also planning on getting the K3 and there is only one thing that 
 is holding up my order right now and that is trying to figure out when 
 I can spend the time to put it together.  But, I am also a little bit 
 wondering if the cost differential of kit versus factory built is 
 worth the learning experience when you contrast that with the hassles 
 of potential problems.
 
 If the kit cost versus factory built cost were different by a wider 
 margin it would be an easier decision.
 
 phil, K7PEH
 
 
 On Dec 20, 2009, at 6:27 PM, Ed Muns wrote:
 
  This is an important point and one that should be considered in the 
  decision to get the factory-built K3 or the kit.  Actually the 
  sub-assemblies are tested as individual units.  But the set of 
  sub-assemblies in a kit have not been tested together as a system.
  The factory system tests are more rigorous than what most
 of us can do
  with the kit and certainly more rigorous than the kit instructions 
  provide.  And, while rare, it is possible that sub-assembly
 tolerances
  can combine in a way that causes a system problem.  
 (However, most, if
  not all, of such system issues are resolved via email or phone with 
  Elecraft support.)
  
  So the key considerations are money saved and K3 learning vs. the 
  value of the factory system testing.  Of course, you can
 always send
  your kit K3 to the factory for the system test but that is
 likely to
  be more expensive than getting the factory-built unit in
 the first place.
  
  Ed - W0YK
  ---
  Ed Muns
  Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com FaceBook - 
  www.facebook.com/munsvineyard
  
  K6LL wrote:
  I recommend that you buy it factory-built, at least for the basic 
  unit.
  
  I have two K3's.  One I bought second-hand, and one I built. 
  The one I built had a missing major part, which caused a
 delay, and
  then didn't work when it was finished. It turned out that
 there was
  an unsoldered component on the motherboard, which was
 undetectable in
  factory subassembly testing.
  
  Although you save $200 by building it yourself, you really don't 
  learn much in the process, and you have to spend about
  $25 for an ESD mat. If you have to ship it back to the factory, it 
  will cost you $50 in the USA, and much more from overseas.
  
  There is no substitute for the final system tests that the 
  factory-assembled units get. Subassemblies are not tested 100%.
  
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Re: [Elecraft] ANT 1 / ANT 2 different power settings

2009-12-21 Thread Radio Amateur N5GE
On Mon, 21 Dec 2009 10:00:40 -0800 (PST), w4grj
w4...@satterfield.org wrote:

You should be able to do this with a macro...


Is there any way to have the K3 remember different power settings for ANT 1 
ANT 2 ?

Thanks,
Jack
W4GRJ

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[Elecraft] K2 alignment problems

2009-12-21 Thread af4lb

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[Elecraft] KAF2 Built and tested FS

2009-12-21 Thread Bill K9YEQ
I have a built and tested KAf2 that was removed for the DSP filter.  Will
sell with included shipping for 65$.  

 

 

73,

 

Bill

K9YEQ

K2 #35; KX1 #35; K3 #1744; mini mods

ATS-3B

 

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[Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

2009-12-21 Thread bill4570


Hi folks, 



  

I’m trying to configure the K3 receiver for diversity receive.    I’m 
populating the roofing filter slots in both receivers with matched filters, and 
the question came up:   When the K3 automatically selects the correct roofing 
filter to match DSP filter bandwidth, does the K3 do this by filter   
bandwidth, or by FLx number? 

  In other words; when I use the “width” control, and decrease DSP bandwidth 
from 3.0 Khz to 2.0 Khz on the front panel,   the K3 switches from the 2.8 Khz 
roofing filter located in FL3 to the 2.1 Khz roofing filter located in FL4.   
With the sub-receiver on, and in diversity receive, does the K3 switch the 
sub-receiver roofing filter from FL3 to FL4, like the main, or is it smart 
enough to know that my sub-receiver has it’s 2.8, and 2.1 Khz roofing filters 
in FL1 and FL2 respectively?    Does the K3 select the correct roofing filter 
by bandwidth, or by FLx number? Is the selection logic the same for main and 
sub-receiver? 



  

The KRX3 manual is a little foggy on this.   It says you have to have at least 
one roofing filter, and if that happens to be the KFL3B FM filter, it MUST be 
in the FL1 location.   It also says that you must have the widest bandwidth 
nearest FL1, but does not say it must be located at FL1. 



  

Bill,   W7QQ 
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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

2009-12-21 Thread Ed Muns
Roofing filters are selected by either of two ways.  One is by directly
selecting FLx on the K3 front panel.  The other is by changing the DSP
bandwidth via WIDTH, LO CUT or HIGH CUT.  When the DSP bandwidth is
decreased to the crystal filter bandwidth, then that roofer is selected.
(Or, when the DSP increases beyond the current roofer's bandwidth, then the
next wider roofer is selected.)

It is important to note that the roofer bandwidth is specified by the user
in the K3 CONFIG menu, and you are not constrained to use either the
marketing bandwidth or the actual bandwidth of the filter.  You can put in
any bandwidth you want because all you are doing is telling the K3 what DSP
bandwidth to engage that particular crystal filter.

Most users specify the marketing bandwidth of the filter, e.g., 250 Hz for
the 250 Hz 8-pole filter.  So, as you decrease the DSP bandwidth and reach
250 Hz, that crystal filter will engage.  (Or, if you select FLx, then
crystal filter 'x' is selected and the DSP bandwidth is set to 250 Hz.)  But
you can specify 350 Hz, which is actually rational since the real bandwidth
of this filter is 370 Hz.  Some people even specify a wider DSP bandwidth
engagement point such as 400 or 450 Hz, because they want their crystal
filter bandwidth INSIDE the DSP bandwidth.

So, think about the relationship of the two filters (crystal and DSP), the
resultant cascade bandwidth of the two, the shape factor of the two filters,
and the passband shape.  Decide the DSP bandwidth at which you want your
particular crystal filters to engage.  There are arguments for keeping the
roofer wider than the DSP at all times and vice versa.  Remember that when
the DSP bandwidth is near the roofer's actual bandwidth, the cascade
bandwidth will be significantly less.  When one is much narrower than the
other then the narrow bandwidth dominates the IF bandwidth, but other RX
characteristics like IMD performance will be determined by the roofer
bandwidth.

Setting the DSP engagement bandwidths for your crystal filters affects both
the resultant IF passband width, shape and sound of the audio, as well as
the RX performance characteristics such as IMD.  If your head hurts thinking
about all this, just specify the bandwidth number in the part number of the
filter!  That is a good default and the radio will work great.  

Ed - W0YK
---
Ed Muns
Muns Vineyard - www.munsvineyard.com 
FaceBook - www.facebook.com/munsvineyard 

W7QQ wrote:
 I’m trying to configure the K3 receiver for diversity 
 receive.    I’m populating the roofing filter slots in both 
 receivers with matched filters, and the question came up:   
 When the K3 automatically selects the correct roofing filter 
 to match DSP filter bandwidth, does the K3 do this by filter  
  bandwidth, or by FLx number? 
 
   In other words; when I use the “width” control, and 
 decrease DSP bandwidth from 3.0 Khz to 2.0 Khz on the front 
 panel,   the K3 switches from the 2.8 Khz roofing filter 
 located in FL3 to the 2.1 Khz roofing filter located in FL4.  
  With the sub-receiver on, and in diversity receive, does the 
 K3 switch the sub-receiver roofing filter from FL3 to FL4, 
 like the main, or is it smart enough to know that my 
 sub-receiver has it’s 2.8, and 2.1 Khz roofing filters in FL1 
 and FL2 respectively?    Does the K3 select the correct 
 roofing filter by bandwidth, or by FLx number? Is the 
 selection logic the same for main and sub-receiver? 
 
 
 
   
 
 The KRX3 manual is a little foggy on this.   It says you have 
 to have at least one roofing filter, and if that happens to 
 be the KFL3B FM filter, it MUST be in the FL1 location.   It 
 also says that you must have the widest bandwidth nearest 
 FL1, but does not say it must be located at FL1. 

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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

2009-12-21 Thread Barry N1EU



bill4570 wrote:
 
   In other words; when I use the “width” control, and decrease DSP
 bandwidth from 3.0 Khz to 2.0 Khz on the front panel,   the K3 switches
 from the 2.8 Khz roofing filter located in FL3 to the 2.1 Khz roofing
 filter located in FL4.   With the sub-receiver on, and in diversity
 receive, does the K3 switch the sub-receiver roofing filter from FL3 to
 FL4, like the main, or is it smart enough to know that my sub-receiver has
 it’s 2.8, and 2.1 Khz roofing filters in FL1 and FL2 respectively?    Does
 the K3 select the correct roofing filter by bandwidth, or by FLx number?
 Is the selection logic the same for main and sub-receiver? 
 
Is there some reason you don't want to put the main and subrx filters in
corresponding slots?

73,
Barry N1EU

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 to ALS600 Amplifier

2009-12-21 Thread Phil Debbie Salas
Jack - I've been using my K3 with my ALS-600 for about 18 months now.  My 
ALS-600 takes 65 watts drive to get full output, so I just put a 2dB 
attenuator in-line whenever the amp is turned on (relays switch in the 
attenuator automatically).  That way I can leave my transmit power always 
set to 100 watts and not worry about the drive level.  Info on my 
auto-switch attenuator is in the Articles section of my website at 
www.ad5x.com.

I modified my ALS-600 for QSK operation.  The QSK relays operate in less 
than 5ms, which is within the 8ms default delay of the K3.  So this all 
works fine as well.  Details on the ALS-600 QSK mod (which is very simple) 
are in the Equipment Modification section of my website.

Phil - AD5X

I am hooking up my new K3 to a ALS600 and would appreciate comments from
anyone with this combo concerning connecting without ALC control and any
relay delay settings in the K3

Jack W4GRJ 

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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread Julian, G4ILO


Jim Brown-10 wrote:
 
 I'm told that the 
 cause is acoustic coupling between the speaker and the synthesizer board
 
Somebody reported here a few weeks back they could cause microphony by
knocking the K3 case. It adds up.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
* G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com
* KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html
* KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html

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[Elecraft] P-3 XV144A?

2009-12-21 Thread JIM DAVIS
Gentlemen,

Will both of these units REQUIRE mods within the K3 for proper seamless 
operation???

We're really jazzed about both!!! In the case of the P-3 (I know earlier next 
year!)

Regards,

Jim/nn6ee
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[Elecraft] For Sale - KX1

2009-12-21 Thread Mark
For Sale - KX1.  Properly built; works perfectly; surplus to needs.  20, 
30, and 40 meters; plus ATU and Elecraft KX1 paddle.

  $485 and ship CONUS by priority mail.  PayPal is acceptable.

If questions, please contact off list.  n7mq at comcast.net

73, Mark N7MQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Spurious

2009-12-21 Thread David Gilbert


And of course, if you tune to a receiver spur that is influenced by 
cable orientation, it is HEAVILY microphonic ... especially on the 
higher bands.  I wouldn't be surprised if similar microphonics exist on 
transmit.

73,
Dave   AB7E


Julian, G4ILO wrote:
 Jim Brown-10 wrote:
   
 I'm told that the 
 cause is acoustic coupling between the speaker and the synthesizer board

 
 Somebody reported here a few weeks back they could cause microphony by
 knocking the K3 case. It adds up.

   
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[Elecraft] K3 DIY vs factory assembled: If I get a bad part, will I be stuck?

2009-12-21 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
I have been posting a LOT of private messages since I don't think they
add much (anything) to general knowledge on the reflector.  But this
time, I think this has some merit for those who are still thinking
about a K3, factory-assembled versus DIY (kit).

So the recent question raised (not by me) as I see it boils to one of concern:

If I buy it assembled, it's guaranteed to work cuz it's been tested,
VERSUS, what I assemble it myself and it's not up to snuff?  Am I
stuck?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!  The attitude I have noted from Elecraft is that they
fully support all their radios, even when you assemble it.  In the
earlier days of the K3, there were not uncommon emails on the
reflector about trading / swapping boards and defective parts (the
rare times that they occur).  These ran the full range from missing
some hardware (all radios I have built or helped to build had a
surplus), the infamous cracked knob (none of mine), even I got two
left panels or I can't find the fiber washers.

IMHO, you will NOT be hung out to dry if you assemble it
yourself...you will have TONS of support if you want any and
especially if you need any.

The crew at supp...@elecraft.com is amazing.  I even got a response
(well, several) on a holiday weekend when something didn't seem quite
right.  Did you read that...on a HOLIDAY WEEKEND!

Very cool, very comforting.

Go for it.

de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] K3 spurious

2009-12-21 Thread DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Yes, a well known issue for a LONG time...with a SUPER EASY solution.

It is indeed due to the internal speaker.

A year or so ago, I got a call from a local (a couple miles away) that
he had a spurious on his K3 (I helped him build it).  I listened,
yes it was there.  When he switched from the internal speaker to
headphones, it was gone.  I think he ended up using an external
speaker which also solved the problem (some guys like speakers!).

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] P-3 XV144A?

2009-12-21 Thread Alan Bloom
On Sat, 2009-12-19 at 15:06 -0800, JIM DAVIS wrote:

 Will both of these units REQUIRE mods within the K3 for proper seamless 
 operation???

The P3 requires the KXV3 or KXV3A option.  In addition, for best
sensitivity a resistor should be changed on the K3 main RF board:
http://www.elecraft.com/K3/mods/IF_Output_Buffer_Gain_Mod_Rev_A.pdf
It's an easy mod: you only have to remove the front section of the
bottom cover.  (The change has already been incorporated into all new
K3’s beginning in September of this year.)

The K144XV requires the KXV3A.  In addition, there is a power connector
for it on the K3 RF board which may need to be installed.  (I think new
K3s will have the connector pre-installed, but don't quote me on that.)
It also looks like a very easy modification.

Alan N1AL




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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

2009-12-21 Thread Guy Olinger K2AV
Bill, it's simpler than what you're looking for.  You can put your
widest filter in FL1 and install them from there in descending
bandwidth.  Use the K3 utility to set up the filters, much easier than
doing it with the config menu.  The radio automatically switches in
the matching filter that matches WIDTH going down.  This will be done
separately in each RX regardless of what filter slots were used. You
do not have to make slot assignments identical.

73, Guy.

On Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 3:57 PM,  bill4...@comcast.net wrote:


 Hi folks,





 I’m trying to configure the K3 receiver for diversity receive.    I’m 
 populating the roofing filter slots in both receivers with matched filters, 
 and the question came up:   When the K3 automatically selects the correct 
 roofing filter to match DSP filter bandwidth, does the K3 do this by filter   
 bandwidth, or by FLx number?

   In other words; when I use the “width” control, and decrease DSP bandwidth 
 from 3.0 Khz to 2.0 Khz on the front panel,   the K3 switches from the 2.8 
 Khz roofing filter located in FL3 to the 2.1 Khz roofing filter located in 
 FL4.   With the sub-receiver on, and in diversity receive, does the K3 switch 
 the sub-receiver roofing filter from FL3 to FL4, like the main, or is it 
 smart enough to know that my sub-receiver has it’s 2.8, and 2.1 Khz roofing 
 filters in FL1 and FL2 respectively?    Does the K3 select the correct 
 roofing filter by bandwidth, or by FLx number? Is the selection logic the 
 same for main and sub-receiver?





 The KRX3 manual is a little foggy on this.   It says you have to have at 
 least one roofing filter, and if that happens to be the KFL3B FM filter, it 
 MUST be in the FL1 location.   It also says that you must have the widest 
 bandwidth nearest FL1, but does not say it must be located at FL1.





 Bill,   W7QQ
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[Elecraft] New W2 Firmware rev 0.94 available

2009-12-21 Thread Brian
Announcing the release of W2 Firmware Rev 0.94.   This version is now 
available using our Elecraft W2 Utility program linked to our ftp site.

Here are the highlights for this release:

*Rev 0.94, 21-Dec-2009
*

  * VHF SENSOR SERIAL DATA: The decimal point function in the 200W 
Manual Range did not shift when the measured power dropped below 20 
watts.  Now corrected.**


Please send any questions to k3supp...@elecraft.com.

This release will automatically be recognized by the Elecraft W2 
Utility if you have checked the Copy new files from Elecraft... box.

Please use the latest version of W2 Utility to load.

73,
Brian, W6FVI
W2 Firmware Engineer
Elecraft, Inc.

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[Elecraft] Digital xmit in USB mode

2009-12-21 Thread W4GRJ

I can get the K3 to xmit digital when the K3 is in data mode but I need to be
able to stay in USB and xmit MT63 digital. However, there is no output when
I am in USB mode. Any suggestionsThanks.
Jack
W4GRJ

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Re: [Elecraft] Digital xmit in USB mode

2009-12-21 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jack,

Is your data mode set to DATA A?  If so, there should be no difference 
between LSB and USB.  Tell us more about your setup and what you are 
trying to accomplish.

73,
Don W3FPR

W4GRJ wrote:
 I can get the K3 to xmit digital when the K3 is in data mode but I need to be
 able to stay in USB and xmit MT63 digital. However, there is no output when
 I am in USB mode. Any suggestionsThanks.
 Jack
 W4GRJ
   

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Re: [Elecraft] Digital xmit in USB mode

2009-12-21 Thread W4GRJ

I switched the Mic+Lin in the Main Menu to On .that seems to have fixed the
problem. It now xmits digital when I am in the USB mode.

 

Thanks again to the group for the help!!

 

 

From: Don Wilhelm-4 [via Elecraft]
[mailto:ml-node+4201775-2000559...@n2.nabble.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 9:59 PM
To: W4GRJ
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Digital xmit in USB mode

 

Jack, 

Is your data mode set to DATA A?  If so, there should be no difference 
between LSB and USB.  Tell us more about your setup and what you are 
trying to accomplish. 

73, 
Don W3FPR 

W4GRJ wrote: 
 I can get the K3 to xmit digital when the K3 is in data mode but I need to
be 
 able to stay in USB and xmit MT63 digital. However, there is no output
when 
 I am in USB mode. Any suggestionsThanks. 
 Jack 
 W4GRJ 
   
 
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To unsubscribe from Digital xmit in USB mode, click
 (link removed) 
lbGQub3JnfDQyMDE2OTh8LTE1NTQ0MzE1MTk=  here. 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

2009-12-21 Thread srife
H...   Ed, I almost tried using the built in
translator in Outlook...but then I recognized some of those words, like
is and the.  :-()  It almost let the smoke out of my head.

Seriously though, I don't understand the filter setup
technicalities. I can get through setting them up per the defaults in the
manual, but I would like to understand more about what you said. I'm not
sure why a filter would be advertised as a 250hz filter but actually have a
(usable?) bandwidth of 370hz. Is this just a difference in how it's
measured?

I have SN/0690 and am just now installing the KRX3. It arrived a few
months after the radio, back in mid to late 08, and I just never got around
to installing it. I have identical filters in both the main and sub receiver
(13khz, 6khz, 2.8  400 respecitively, with # 5 empty) so I can try out
diversity receive. I don't do much CW so didn't figure I needed a 250hz.

I'm sure I'll be asking some questions about this in short order,
once I get the rig back together. I am doing some of the mods and am
currently waiting on some parts and the REV C or D (or whatever it's up to
now) DSP board. 



Stan Rife 
W5EWA 


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ed Muns



Roofing filters are selected by either of two ways.  One is by directly
selecting FLx on the K3 front panel.  The other is by changing the DSP
bandwidth via WIDTH, LO CUT or HIGH CUT.  When the DSP bandwidth is
decreased to the crystal filter bandwidth, then that roofer is selected.
(Or, when the DSP increases beyond the current roofer's bandwidth, then the
next wider roofer is selected.)

It is important to note that the roofer bandwidth is specified by the user
in the K3 CONFIG menu, and you are not constrained to use either the
marketing bandwidth or the actual bandwidth of the filter.  You can put in
any bandwidth you want because all you are doing is telling the K3 what DSP
bandwidth to engage that particular crystal filter.

Most users specify the marketing bandwidth of the filter, e.g., 250 Hz for
the 250 Hz 8-pole filter.  So, as you decrease the DSP bandwidth and reach
250 Hz, that crystal filter will engage.  (Or, if you select FLx, then
crystal filter 'x' is selected and the DSP bandwidth is set to 250 Hz.)  But
you can specify 350 Hz, which is actually rational since the real bandwidth
of this filter is 370 Hz.  Some people even specify a wider DSP bandwidth
engagement point such as 400 or 450 Hz, because they want their crystal
filter bandwidth INSIDE the DSP bandwidth.

So, think about the relationship of the two filters (crystal and DSP), the
resultant cascade bandwidth of the two, the shape factor of the two filters,
and the passband shape.  Decide the DSP bandwidth at which you want your
particular crystal filters to engage.  There are arguments for keeping the
roofer wider than the DSP at all times and vice versa.  Remember that when
the DSP bandwidth is near the roofer's actual bandwidth, the cascade
bandwidth will be significantly less.  When one is much narrower than the
other then the narrow bandwidth dominates the IF bandwidth, but other RX
characteristics like IMD performance will be determined by the roofer
bandwidth.

Setting the DSP engagement bandwidths for your crystal filters affects both
the resultant IF passband width, shape and sound of the audio, as well as
the RX performance characteristics such as IMD.  If your head hurts thinking
about all this, just specify the bandwidth number in the part number of the
filter!  That is a good default and the radio will work great.  

Ed - W0YK

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Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

2009-12-21 Thread srife
So is the information in the manual just the easy way to set it up,
and you can actually put them in whatever slots you want?
From reading the manual I understood that they had to be in decending order
starting from FL1, and the filters in both receivers had to match for
diversity receive.

Stan Rife 
W5EWA 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Guy Olinger K2AV
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 8:06 PM
To: bill4...@comcast.net
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KRX3 roofing filter matching for diversity receive

Bill, it's simpler than what you're looking for.  You can put your
widest filter in FL1 and install them from there in descending
bandwidth.  Use the K3 utility to set up the filters, much easier than
doing it with the config menu.  The radio automatically switches in
the matching filter that matches WIDTH going down.  This will be done
separately in each RX regardless of what filter slots were used. You
do not have to make slot assignments identical.

73, Guy.

On Mon, Dec 21, 2009 at 3:57 PM,  bill4...@comcast.net wrote:


 Hi folks,





 I’m trying to configure the K3 receiver for diversity receive.    I’m
populating the roofing filter slots in both receivers with matched filters,
and the question came up:   When the K3 automatically selects the correct
roofing filter to match DSP filter bandwidth, does the K3 do this by filter
  bandwidth, or by FLx number?

   In other words; when I use the “width” control, and decrease DSP
bandwidth from 3.0 Khz to 2.0 Khz on the front panel,   the K3 switches from
the 2.8 Khz roofing filter located in FL3 to the 2.1 Khz roofing filter
located in FL4.   With the sub-receiver on, and in diversity receive, does
the K3 switch the sub-receiver roofing filter from FL3 to FL4, like the
main, or is it smart enough to know that my sub-receiver has it’s 2.8, and
2.1 Khz roofing filters in FL1 and FL2 respectively?    Does the K3 select
the correct roofing filter by bandwidth, or by FLx number? Is the selection
logic the same for main and sub-receiver?





 The KRX3 manual is a little foggy on this.   It says you have to have at
least one roofing filter, and if that happens to be the KFL3B FM filter, it
MUST be in the FL1 location.   It also says that you must have the widest
bandwidth nearest FL1, but does not say it must be located at FL1.





 Bill,   W7QQ
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 spurious

2009-12-21 Thread srife
Is there a permanent fix (mod) for this? Not sure whether I have the
problem or not.


Stan Rife 
W5EWA 



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Sent: Monday, December 21, 2009 6:58 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 spurious

Yes, a well known issue for a LONG time...with a SUPER EASY solution.

It is indeed due to the internal speaker.

A year or so ago, I got a call from a local (a couple miles away) that
he had a spurious on his K3 (I helped him build it).  I listened,
yes it was there.  When he switched from the internal speaker to
headphones, it was gone.  I think he ended up using an external
speaker which also solved the problem (some guys like speakers!).

de Doug KR2Q
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 DIY vs factory assembled: If I get a bad part, will I be stuck?

2009-12-21 Thread Gary, VE1RGB

Doug:  

Your argument is solid for citizens of the USA.  But life offshore
is different and the logistics support system from Aptos, while it cannot be
faulted, cannot do anything about the vagaries of postal and transportation
and customs and immigration systems which attract delay and cost, sometimes
of eye-watering magnitude, to those of us who live elsewhere.

I think this thread originated from a ham in DL although I may be
wrong.  If so that may be one kind of situation when the additional cost of
Elecraft assembly provides the owner with confidence in the performance of
the K3 after it has gone through the pre-delivery burn-in and function
testing in Aptos.  That consideration for some folks may over-ride the valid
benefits from home-built for reasons that have nothing do with the technical
issues associated with K3 Kit assembly and cost savings but rather with the
ability to support the K3 is a timely fashion if/when goes wrong and
salvation resides in a different country.

Just a thought.  The correct answer depends upon how the buyer wants
to handle risk mitigation.

Gary, VE1RGB





-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of DOUGLAS ZWIEBEL
Sent: December 21, 2009 8:49 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 DIY vs factory assembled: If I get a bad part, will
I be stuck?

I have been posting a LOT of private messages since I don't think they
add much (anything) to general knowledge on the reflector.  But this
time, I think this has some merit for those who are still thinking
about a K3, factory-assembled versus DIY (kit).

So the recent question raised (not by me) as I see it boils to one of
concern:

If I buy it assembled, it's guaranteed to work cuz it's been tested,
VERSUS, what I assemble it myself and it's not up to snuff?  Am I
stuck?

ABSOLUTELY NOT!  The attitude I have noted from Elecraft is that they
fully support all their radios, even when you assemble it.  In the
earlier days of the K3, there were not uncommon emails on the
reflector about trading / swapping boards and defective parts (the
rare times that they occur).  These ran the full range from missing
some hardware (all radios I have built or helped to build had a
surplus), the infamous cracked knob (none of mine), even I got two
left panels or I can't find the fiber washers.

IMHO, you will NOT be hung out to dry if you assemble it
yourself...you will have TONS of support if you want any and
especially if you need any.

The crew at supp...@elecraft.com is amazing.  I even got a response
(well, several) on a holiday weekend when something didn't seem quite
right.  Did you read that...on a HOLIDAY WEEKEND!

Very cool, very comforting.

Go for it.

de Doug KR2Q
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[Elecraft] K2 Question

2009-12-21 Thread David Dunn
On behalf of a friend (in Australia) who is thinking of a K2,  can anyone
give an approximate idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit

Better still has anyone got a K2 to sell (In Australia)

73   David VK3DBD
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