Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Perhaps instead of using the word "ground", we should use the word "common". John k7up >It does not matter whether everything is a "ground" or whether it is at >1000 volts above ground. What is important is that everything in your >working environment is at the same potential. Connecting your wrist >strap and the anti-static mat (on your work area) to the same "ground" >point will assure that condition. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
They are best when filled with fresh muffins! John k7up __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Ground connection?
Brian, If you have the KAT2 or the KPA100 option installed, there will be a binding post for the ground connection. If you have the basic K2, and you wish to have a ground connection, put a 5 way binding post on the mounting hole labeled "ground" and connect it to your station ground point. In actual practice, you may not need a ground connection for the K2. A ground connection for any transceiver is to connect the chassis to other gear in the hamshack, and to connect to the "ground" for your antenna system. If your antenna system presents a good 50 ohm match to the K2, a ground is not required - just feed the antenna. The grounding of every "box" in the hamshack should be more for reducing "box" to "box" potential differences than for eliminating any other "problems". If you have only a K2 and an antenna, there is no need for a "ground" connection. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 11:29 PM, Brian Denley wrote: > There is a hole in the back of my K2 marked 'GND'. Looking for a suitable > ground connection to my K2 I wondered if this 'hole' gets filled by an > option. What are other users using for a K2 ground connection? > > Brian Denley > KB1VBF > http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening, Once again Oregon weather has given us every possible condition. Full sun with warm days. Rain in torrential amounts. Now snow, freezing rain, sleet, and pellet snow. Makes life interesting. Good thing they warn us so we can prepare. I am cozy in the cabin with things to do and plenty of nice dry wood to keep me warm. An interesting occurrence came my way yesterday on the way back up the mountain from a trip for supplies. I was driving up through the lower switch backs when I found the road completely blocked from one ditch to the other. I skidded to a halt and waved as the forty elk slowly crossed the road. They gave me curious looks but were fairly polite. Only a few got skittish at my rapid appearance. They are very big when you are only ten feet away from them. Once they all got to the grass they were interested in I drove home. It was nice to see them. Propagation on twenty meters has been good this week. Forty meters has improved for the evening hours so maybe it will be good for tomorrow night too. Now that the weather is cooler I don't get back to the radio shack as often. I have moved most of the computer processing power to the front of the house near the fire. Today I got the network architecture rerouted so I am once again connected to my printer without resorting to sneaker net. Windows 7 (64 bit) is giving me some problems but I'll get around that by using Virtual Box and SuSE to fix the glitch. As long as the box thinks it is not Windows 7 all the apps run fine. Sun's Virtual Box allows me to run many different operating systems from one location. Loading up a new one only takes a few seconds. Linux is easier to use for most things I had been using CygWin to provide. I use a lot of different compilers and assemblers Please join us tomorrow afternoon and evening. 1) Hail signs (first letter or two of the suffix of your call) 2) NCS help (as well as QSP/QNP help) Sunday 2300z (Sunday 3 PM PST) 14050 kHz Monday 0100z (Sunday 5 PM PST) 7045 kHz Stay well, Kevin. KD5ONS - __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2] Ground connection?
There is a hole in the back of my K2 marked 'GND'. Looking for a suitable ground connection to my K2 I wondered if this 'hole' gets filled by an option. What are other users using for a K2 ground connection? Brian Denley KB1VBF http://home.comcast.net/~b.denley/index.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Ron, While we all agree that screws in an anti-static package is overkill, I hope that all will consider the essential content of this thread. It does not matter whether everything is a "ground" or whether it is at 1000 volts above ground. What is important is that everything in your working environment is at the same potential. Connecting your wrist strap and the anti-static mat (on your work area) to the same "ground" point will assure that condition. Open the ESD prevention packages on the anti-static mat and let your hands linger on the antistatic mat a bit before picking up any component and all will be well. As for "touching a grounded metal surface", my prior comments will suffice - it is better than nothing, but there is a "better way". 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 10:58 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > I've gotten spare screws from Elecraft in ESD packages too, Hi! > > But, if a newbie isn't sure, it's not a bad "rule of thumb". > > Gad, I'm glad that thread is over! > > Ron AC7AC > > -Original Message- > From: Don Cunningham [mailto:wb5...@martineer.net] > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 6:06 PM > To: n...@cds1.net; Ron D'Eau Claire > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD > > Mouser does it all the time. My Amphenol PL-259's were even in ESD > packaging. Good thing is they arrived with no static damage :>) > 73, > Don > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] kpa 500
"Squeezing higher power out degrades the IMD." SO... The "10 watt" amp feeds the 100 w PA? Does it get fed with 10 watts or 12 watts? What does that mean to the IMD of the 100 w PA by the cause of the degraded IMD being fed into the PA? 73, de Jim KG0KP - Original Message - From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" To: Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 6:42 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] kpa 500 > And if you care about transmitting the cleanest signal, you'll hold the > K3/10 output to 10 watts PEP. Squeezing higher power out degrades the IMD. > The Power control provides some additional room to be sure everyone can > make > the rated 10 watts. > > The same is true for the K2/10. > > Ron AC7AC > > -Original Message- > Well, let's see if I can do this right: 15 db = 10 log (Pout / 12 watts) > > where 15db is the FCC maximum allowed gain. Assuming that 12 watts > will drive the KPA500, we solve for Pout as: 12 watts * 10^1.5 = 379 > watts > > So, if I did the calculation correctly, that would be legal maximum. I > would suspect the gain to be less, perhaps in the 200-300 watt range > for no other reason than it feels right to my mind. There may also > have been an email from Lyle that mentioned something in the 200 watt > range, but I'm not sure. > > 73, Byron N6NUL > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
I thought we were talking about putting parts INTO the tin. If you gradually equalize the potential of the parts with respect to the muffin tin before putting them into it, yeah ... that will work OK. But then the resistor to ground from the tin is a don't care .. it doesn't accomplish anything as far as ESD goes. Using the same protocol as stuffing a PC board is good advice, but the only thing a resistor to ground accomplishes is to provide a reasonably common reference point if you're moving stuff (components, tools, yourself) around from place to place. Once everything is in the same spot it doesn't have much meaning. Dave AB7E On 12/18/2010 5:43 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Not if the tin is grounded. > > If not grounded, the capacity charge is taken care of by touching the tin > before touching it with the part, just like when installing a part in a pc > board. > > As I said, use the same protocol as if installing a part in a pc board. > > Ron AC7AC > > -Original Message- > That's no guarantee of anything. It doesn't address the issue of > instantaneous static dissipation from the component to the muffin tin > itself (which has capacity to its surroundings and acts as it's own > charge sink). Reread Gary's comment about surface conductivity. > > Dave AB7E > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
I've gotten spare screws from Elecraft in ESD packages too, Hi! But, if a newbie isn't sure, it's not a bad "rule of thumb". Gad, I'm glad that thread is over! Ron AC7AC -Original Message- From: Don Cunningham [mailto:wb5...@martineer.net] Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 6:06 PM To: n...@cds1.net; Ron D'Eau Claire Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD Mouser does it all the time. My Amphenol PL-259's were even in ESD packaging. Good thing is they arrived with no static damage :>) 73, Don __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Agreed Don. Based on earlier iterations of this thread years ago, we devoted a whole page in the K3 manuals to this subject. Even so, when it comes up on line it seems like the thing to do to try to answer the specific questions. But, with the last few questions and concerns expressed, it's obvious we've started a complete circle returning to issues covered hours ago. It's what happens when people come into a thread "late" and don't look back to the early posts. That can make it go on forever. I have no doubt the original question about whether one can install the KRX3 without a fully equipped ESD station was answered long, long ago, Hi! 73 es di-di-dit dah-di-dah Ron AC7AC -Original Message- Geo, Yes, it does come up from time to time, and IMHO for those who have not seen it before, the thread contents are informative, and is not "beating dead horse". For those who have been following this reflector for some time, it is repetitive information. Please be respectful and tolerant for those to whom the information is new news. It is important for proper construction and continued longevity of your Elecraft kit. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Yes ... I just said the same thing in response to another message. If you or the parts are moving around the room, being connected to a common reference point as you or they do so makes a lot of sense, and "ground", while sometimes not as perfect as we'd like to believe, is better than just about anything else. It greatly minimizes the equalizations that have to be protected against. Any common reference point would do just as well, though ... I could have a copper floor that floated 1,000 volts above "ground" and as long as I did everything within the confines of that floor I'd be in good shape. I could be in the gondola of a hot air balloon 1,000 feet above "ground" and if everything in that gondola was at the same potential I'd be in good shape. If I have a conductive mat laid out in front of me, and all my parts are lying on it, and I am connected to that mat while I'm working, and the first thing I do when I return to the mat after going somewhere else is to connect myself back to the mat (standard ESD protocol), there is no additional advantage of any of it being connected to "ground". Having everything connected to a common reference point is the important part of all of this, and the reason I keep yapping about it is that some folks (like the guy who earned my initial response) seem to think that being connected to ground is the important part. It isn't. Dave AB7E On 12/18/2010 5:49 PM, david m wrote: > No, it is not false. The problem is that when you get up, and move > around, your potential will change from that of the equipment. Touch > it again, and you can have an ESD event. Ground the equipment and > yourself (through a high value resistor) and it will ensure that > everything will remain at the same potential no matter > > There are different ways that ESD events can occur: the human body model > is where a charged person discharged into a device at a lower potential, > which is the most common, The charged device model, which is not as > common but still equally valid, is where a device is charged through > either contact with another charged object, or through tribocharging of > itself. When this device contacts a surface of lower or ground > potential, a discharge can occur and damage it. > > I've been working with ESD protection for more than 25 years, so, I'll > keep doing what has been proven to work, has been scientifically > accepted by the EOS/ESD Association, the electronics industry and the > military. You're free to do what you want, of course. > > AJ4TF > > > > On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 14:04 -0700, David Gilbert wrote: >> Wrong. >> >> First off, the guy never said anything about connecting the item to >> ground ... he stated that as long as you were connected to ground you >> were OK. That's false. >> >> It is also false that both of you need to be connected to ground for >> ESD, although that may be good practice for other reasons. All that >> is necessary is that you and the stuff you're working on be connected >> to the same potential. It's basic Ohm's Law 101. >> >> Dave AB7E >> >> >> >> On 12/18/2010 12:49 PM, david m wrote: >>> YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's >>> basic ESD prevention 101. >>> >>> Message: 2 Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700 From: David Gilbert Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID:<4d0b9ad7.9070...@cis-broadband.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground. You want to connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on). Connecting yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a potential between you and the rig. >>> __ >>> Elecraft mailing list >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >>> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html >>> > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3?
I will try this and let you know what I find! Good tip, you're always good for another bit of digital streamlining, Joe! -lu- > -Original Message- > From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 8:57 PM > To: lrom...@ij.net > Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3? > > > > Does this mean that I can use K3-EX CONCURRENTLY with N1MM > via Router > > on a separate com port, Joe? > > I haven't tried it with N1MM Logger but it certainly works > with DXLab Suite with Commander actively polling. > > > But it STILL means I must retain my other com port for software > > updates, as it is still not recommended to do this through router, > > correct? > > *ABSOLUTELY* Never do a software update through Router with > any of the microHAM "Keyer" interfaces, MK2R/MK2R+ or Station Master. > > 73, > > ... Joe, W4TV > > > On 12/18/2010 8:20 PM, Luis V. Romero wrote: > > GOOD suggestion! While I don't swap cables, I just flip > one switch on > > the serial selector switch, but this is a good thing to > know... Does > > this mean that I can use K3-EX CONCURRENTLY with N1MM via > Router on a > > separate com port, Joe? > > > > That would be really great! A GUI for the radio! > > > > I will give this a try! > > > > But it STILL means I must retain my other com port for software > > updates, as it is still not recommended to do this through > router, correct? > > > > -lu-W4LT > > K3 #3192 > > > >> -Original Message- > >> From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] > >> Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 2:17 PM > >> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; lrom...@ij.net > >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3? > >> > >> > >>> When I need to load software or do any adjustments with > >> K3-EZ or the > >>> Utilities, I switch to the "real" comp port. When I > >> operate, I switch > >>> to the MicroHam. > >> > >> There is no need to switch cables to use K3-EZ. Configure > K3-EZ to > >> use the "2nd CAT" port in microHAM Router. > >> > >> 73, > >> > >> ... Joe, W4TV > >> > >> On 12/18/2010 1:31 PM, Luis V. Romero wrote: > >>> Hi George: > >>> > >>> Just heard you on 10 meters a couple of minutes ago calling > >> CQ on CW. > >>> > >>> Although I don't use a P3 (My new roof just finished being > >> installed a > >>> couple of hours ago, so the P3 will wait for later in > >> 2011), my setup > >>> is the > >>> following: > >>> > >>> "Real" com port 1 from my computer goes to side B of the > >> switch. The > >>> MicroHam MK2 serial output goes to port A. There is a > >> standard RS232 > >>> cable going from the common output of the switch feeding > the serial > >>> input of the K3. > >>> > >>> When I need to load software or do any adjustments with > >> K3-EZ or the > >>> Utilities, I switch to the "real" comp port. When I > >> operate, I switch > >>> to the MicroHam. You can do this while the MicroHam is > >> online, and it > >>> does not bother it. The frequency display on its front > panel shows > >>> dashes until I switch back to the MicroHam output on the switch. > >>> > >>> Its transparent and I have never run into any issues with > >> this setup at all. > >>> > >>> -lu-W4LT- > >>> > >>> --- > >>> > >>> Message: 23 > >>> Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 22:45:10 EST > >>> From: georgek...@aol.com > >>> Subject: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3? > >>> To: supp...@microham.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >>> Message-ID:<2b4b3.72d9996.3a3d8...@aol.com> > >>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > >>> > >>> At times, my microHam CW Keyer is connected to my K3 via > >> the P3. However, > >>> when I want to download new firmware for the K3, I have to > >> disconnect > >>> the CW Keyer from the RS232 port, and connect the DB9 from the > >>> computer's serial > >>> > >>>port to the K3 via the P3. > >>> > >>> Can I use a DB9 A/B switch to switch between the the two > >> DB9 cables without > >>>creating any problems? > >>> > >>> 73, George > >>> > >>> George Wagner, K5KG > >>> Sarasota, FL > >>> 941-400-1960 cell > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools > >> AntiVirus > >>> (6.1.0.25 - 6.14880). > >>> http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ > >>> __ > >>> Elecraft mailing list > >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >>> > >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support > >> this email > >>> list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > >>> > > > > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools > AntiVirus > > (6.1.0.25 - 6.14880). > > http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ > > No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.1.0.25 - 6.14880). http://www.pctools.com/free-an
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
AMEN - Original Message - From: To: Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 7:49 PM Subject: [Elecraft] K3 ESD >I think this topic comes up way to often and really goes no where. Like > beating dead horse.Geo/W2BPI > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Mouser does it all the time. My Amphenol PL-259's were even in ESD packaging. Good thing is they arrived with no static damage :>) 73, Don __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Geo, Yes, it does come up from time to time, and IMHO for those who have not seen it before, the thread contents are informative, and is not "beating dead horse". For those who have been following this reflector for some time, it is repetitive information. Please be respectful and tolerant for those to whom the information is new news. It is important for proper construction and continued longevity of your Elecraft kit. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 8:49 PM, w2b...@aol.com wrote: > I think this topic comes up way to often and really goes no where. Like > beating dead horse.Geo/W2BPI > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 15:55 -0800, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: ... > If the part comes in ESD packaging, it's smart to treat it as ESD sensitive. Some distributors put all parts in ESD envelopes whether they are sensitive or not. I have had CONNECTORS come in ESD packaging! Alan N1AL __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 ESD
I think this topic comes up way to often and really goes no where. Like beating dead horse.Geo/W2BPI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3?
GOOD suggestion! While I don't swap cables, I just flip one switch on the serial selector switch, but this is a good thing to know... Does this mean that I can use K3-EX CONCURRENTLY with N1MM via Router on a separate com port, Joe? That would be really great! A GUI for the radio! I will give this a try! But it STILL means I must retain my other com port for software updates, as it is still not recommended to do this through router, correct? -lu-W4LT K3 #3192 > -Original Message- > From: Joe Subich, W4TV [mailto:li...@subich.com] > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 2:17 PM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; lrom...@ij.net > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3? > > > > When I need to load software or do any adjustments with > K3-EZ or the > > Utilities, I switch to the "real" comp port. When I > operate, I switch > > to the MicroHam. > > There is no need to switch cables to use K3-EZ. Configure > K3-EZ to use the "2nd CAT" port in microHAM Router. > > 73, > > ... Joe, W4TV > > On 12/18/2010 1:31 PM, Luis V. Romero wrote: > > Hi George: > > > > Just heard you on 10 meters a couple of minutes ago calling > CQ on CW. > > > > Although I don't use a P3 (My new roof just finished being > installed a > > couple of hours ago, so the P3 will wait for later in > 2011), my setup > > is the > > following: > > > > "Real" com port 1 from my computer goes to side B of the > switch. The > > MicroHam MK2 serial output goes to port A. There is a > standard RS232 > > cable going from the common output of the switch feeding the serial > > input of the K3. > > > > When I need to load software or do any adjustments with > K3-EZ or the > > Utilities, I switch to the "real" comp port. When I > operate, I switch > > to the MicroHam. You can do this while the MicroHam is > online, and it > > does not bother it. The frequency display on its front panel shows > > dashes until I switch back to the MicroHam output on the switch. > > > > Its transparent and I have never run into any issues with > this setup at all. > > > > -lu-W4LT- > > > > --- > > > > Message: 23 > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 22:45:10 EST > > From: georgek...@aol.com > > Subject: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3? > > To: supp...@microham.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > Message-ID:<2b4b3.72d9996.3a3d8...@aol.com> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > > > At times, my microHam CW Keyer is connected to my K3 via > the P3. However, > > when I want to download new firmware for the K3, I have to > disconnect > > the CW Keyer from the RS232 port, and connect the DB9 from the > > computer's serial > > > > port to the K3 via the P3. > > > > Can I use a DB9 A/B switch to switch between the the two > DB9 cables without > > creating any problems? > > > > 73, George > > > > George Wagner, K5KG > > Sarasota, FL > > 941-400-1960 cell > > > > > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools > AntiVirus > > (6.1.0.25 - 6.14880). > > http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support > this email > > list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.1.0.25 - 6.14880). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
As in my prior post - ground both to the *same* grounding point. It does not have to be a good ground in the sense of RF or lightning ground, but it must be the *same* ground point. Remember that the "name of the game" is that everything should be at the same potential - and that need not necessarily be "zero volts = ground". It is the *difference* in potential between the points that you are working with or touching that should be zero, not that absolute potential with respect to "mother earth ground". Does that not make sense considering that you are connecting the work surfaces to ground through a 1 megohm resistor. Gradual discharge of charged leads and surfaces is important to keep damage to an absolute minimum - so muffin tins connected to ground through a high value resistor are OK, and the anti-static foam placed on your anti-static mat before removing the ICs all will work fine. While I cannot dispute the advice to "touch a grounded metallic surface" offered in some of the Elecraft manuals (it is better than nothing), that does create an immediate discharge which can cause damage if the item being touched to the grounded surface is a lead of the IC device itself - the intent of that statement is to use the resistivity of your body to dissipate the charge - in other words, touch your hand to the grounded surface, but do not touch the lead of the IC directly to it. It is better to wear a wrist strap, and to work on an anti-static mat. Touch tools, free-floating conductors and the ICs to the mat before handling. The same goes for boards that have been removed from their native assemblies - those may have sensitive inputs which are not connected to their normal circuits, and can be a static-prone area. Once the components are assembled into their working (complete) circuit, the static damage concern should go away - except in extreme cases like lightning damage. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 7:37 PM, david m wrote: > Yes. If you are using a commercially available wrist strap, the 1M > resistor is built in. An anti-static mat will also have a surface > resistivity of at least 1Mohm/sq. Ground both and you'll be safe, and > your equipment will be safe as well. > > On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 15:08 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: >> NOT a direct ground - through a high value (1 megohm) resistor, YES. >> That is basic SAFETY. >> >> Connecting your body directly to ground can cause bodily harm or even >> death if you accidentally come in contact with a source of voltage. >> Even low voltages can be dangerous if the source is capable of high >> current (such as a battery). >> >> For the same reasons, do not work on a fully conducting work surface - >> that may be fine for auto mechanic work, but should never be used to >> work on any electrical or electronic circuits. It is a matter of >> personal safety. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
On 12/18/2010 3:50 PM, Gary Hvizdak wrote: > In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted > "Metal muffin baking tins are good". Please note that this is INCORRECT. As usual, Gary is correct in that ESD mats are not great conductors, but good enough, so that charges drain more slowly. Metal muffin tins don't fall into that category. My saving on this is that they were part of my equipotential plane [which included me], and knowing what Gary pointed out in advance, I kept everything on that plane all the time. I should have made that clear, and an ESD mat/wrist strap is always the best way to go. I just didn't want to buy one :-( I should also have mentioned that many metal muffin tins have a Teflon coating. Teflon is an insulator [actually a pretty good one], and will also generate and hold static charges. If your wife's muffins come out of a Teflon-coated pan, don't use it. Andrea bakes our muffins in a couple of very old pans that are not coated, she uses little paper cupcake liners to keep them from sticking. Whatever you choose to do, just keep everything, including you [through the big resistor] and the ESD bags/foam at the same potential. I recommend remaining clothed, however unshod does help if you're on carpet. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
No, it is not false. The problem is that when you get up, and move around, your potential will change from that of the equipment. Touch it again, and you can have an ESD event. Ground the equipment and yourself (through a high value resistor) and it will ensure that everything will remain at the same potential no matter There are different ways that ESD events can occur: the human body model is where a charged person discharged into a device at a lower potential, which is the most common, The charged device model, which is not as common but still equally valid, is where a device is charged through either contact with another charged object, or through tribocharging of itself. When this device contacts a surface of lower or ground potential, a discharge can occur and damage it. I've been working with ESD protection for more than 25 years, so, I'll keep doing what has been proven to work, has been scientifically accepted by the EOS/ESD Association, the electronics industry and the military. You're free to do what you want, of course. AJ4TF On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 14:04 -0700, David Gilbert wrote: > > Wrong. > > First off, the guy never said anything about connecting the item to > ground ... he stated that as long as you were connected to ground you > were OK. That's false. > > It is also false that both of you need to be connected to ground for > ESD, although that may be good practice for other reasons. All that > is necessary is that you and the stuff you're working on be connected > to the same potential. It's basic Ohm's Law 101. > > Dave AB7E > > > > On 12/18/2010 12:49 PM, david m wrote: > > > > YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's > > basic ESD prevention 101. > > > > > > > Message: 2 > > > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700 > > > From: David Gilbert > > > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD > > > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > Message-ID: <4d0b9ad7.9070...@cis-broadband.com> > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > > > > > > > > > > > NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground. You want to > > > connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on > > > (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on). Connecting > > > yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a > > > potential between you and the rig. > > > > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
Not if the tin is grounded. If not grounded, the capacity charge is taken care of by touching the tin before touching it with the part, just like when installing a part in a pc board. As I said, use the same protocol as if installing a part in a pc board. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- That's no guarantee of anything. It doesn't address the issue of instantaneous static dissipation from the component to the muffin tin itself (which has capacity to its surroundings and acts as it's own charge sink). Reread Gary's comment about surface conductivity. Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Yes. If you are using a commercially available wrist strap, the 1M resistor is built in. An anti-static mat will also have a surface resistivity of at least 1Mohm/sq. Ground both and you'll be safe, and your equipment will be safe as well. On Sat, 2010-12-18 at 15:08 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: > NOT a direct ground - through a high value (1 megohm) resistor, YES. > That is basic SAFETY. > > Connecting your body directly to ground can cause bodily harm or even > death if you accidentally come in contact with a source of voltage. > Even low voltages can be dangerous if the source is capable of high > current (such as a battery). > > For the same reasons, do not work on a fully conducting work surface - > that may be fine for auto mechanic work, but should never be used to > work on any electrical or electronic circuits. It is a matter of > personal safety. > > 73, > Don W3FPR > > On 12/18/2010 2:49 PM, david m wrote: > > YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's > > basic ESD prevention 101. > > > >> NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground. You want to > >> connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on > >> (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on). Connecting > >> yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a > >> potential between you and the rig. > >> __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
On 12/18/2010 3:58 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: > Fred, > > Your statement of connecting to an equipotential plane is a good one, > but your concern about spikes and inductive reactance back to the > "planet" should not be a concern. It IS important that all items in the > protected area be connected to the SAME point on this safety ground. > Connecting one ESD prevention device to one green-wire ground, and > connecting yet another device to yet another receptacle's green wire > ground will cause a difference in potential between those two points on > the green-wire ground. I think that's sort of what I was trying [poorly] to get at ... one ground point, if you can't do that, don't ground. EVERYONE: Listen to Don, he's more precise. > > The same principles apply to installations like commercial broadcast > stations which must remain in operation throughout a lightning storm. > The solution is to keep everything in the station at the same potential > through the use of a "grounding window" - which is the single point to > which *everything* in the station is connected. In the event of a > strike, it does not matter whether that grounding point raises to > several thousand volts - everything connected to that point will also > rise in potential by that same amount. As a Starving Student at Cal Poly in the late 50's/early 60's, I worked at the local TV station on the engineering crew to support myself. Our TX and main studio were co-located next to the 500 ft tower on Cuesta Ridge. We had a single-point ground that involved a lot of copper, and we took a lot of lightning hits, mainly on the tower but strangely, sometimes to the ground and a few times to the building [concrete block]. Maybe it was finding the rebar? At any rate, all the inter-rack and console cabling ran in trenches in the concrete floor covered by 3/8" steel trench covers. For reasons well above my pay grade, a lightning hit to the tower would cause a deafening, bone-breaking "clang" from the trench covers, until we bonded them together along the edges with grounding braid. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
That's no guarantee of anything. It doesn't address the issue of instantaneous static dissipation from the component to the muffin tin itself (which has capacity to its surroundings and acts as it's own charge sink). Reread Gary's comment about surface conductivity. Dave AB7E On 12/18/2010 5:10 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > To avoid damage just follow the same protocol as you would when installing > the part in a circuit board. > > Ideally the tin would be grounded through a 1 meg resistor. > > Ron AC7AC > > -Original Message- > In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted > "Metal muffin baking tins are good". Please note that this is INCORRECT. > > If a metal muffin baking tin (or any conductor for that matter) were brought > into direct contact with an ESD sensitive device, and the two were not > already at the same potential, then the rapid momentary current flow (i.e. > discharge) could easily zap the ESD sensitive device. > > ESD mats have a specific surface resistivity to ensure that any potential > difference -- between the mat and devices placed on it -- is gradually > dissipated over a period of several seconds, as opposed to (I'd guess) > somewhere on the order of a few micro seconds for a metal muffin tin. > > Thus the instantaneous current surge (when coming into contact with the > muffin tin) would be on the order of a million times greater. > > 73, > Gary KI4GGX > K3 #2724 > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
To avoid damage just follow the same protocol as you would when installing the part in a circuit board. Ideally the tin would be grounded through a 1 meg resistor. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted "Metal muffin baking tins are good". Please note that this is INCORRECT. If a metal muffin baking tin (or any conductor for that matter) were brought into direct contact with an ESD sensitive device, and the two were not already at the same potential, then the rapid momentary current flow (i.e. discharge) could easily zap the ESD sensitive device. ESD mats have a specific surface resistivity to ensure that any potential difference -- between the mat and devices placed on it -- is gradually dissipated over a period of several seconds, as opposed to (I'd guess) somewhere on the order of a few micro seconds for a metal muffin tin. Thus the instantaneous current surge (when coming into contact with the muffin tin) would be on the order of a million times greater. 73, Gary KI4GGX K3 #2724 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Fred, Your statement of connecting to an equipotential plane is a good one, but your concern about spikes and inductive reactance back to the "planet" should not be a concern. It IS important that all items in the protected area be connected to the SAME point on this safety ground. Connecting one ESD prevention device to one green-wire ground, and connecting yet another device to yet another receptacle's green wire ground will cause a difference in potential between those two points on the green-wire ground. The same principles apply to installations like commercial broadcast stations which must remain in operation throughout a lightning storm. The solution is to keep everything in the station at the same potential through the use of a "grounding window" - which is the single point to which *everything* in the station is connected. In the event of a strike, it does not matter whether that grounding point raises to several thousand volts - everything connected to that point will also rise in potential by that same amount. It is the potential *difference* of those items that are connected to that single point that is kept to a minimum. It takes a potential *difference* to cause harm or damage. It is similar with ESD protection, but on a much smaller scale. Do not connect your wrist strap to one receptacle ground screw and your anti-static mat to yet another. Connect them all to the same point. Failure to do so destroys the design of your anti-static setup. And that is the reason that many anti-static mats have a connector where you can attach your wrist strap - use it to keep everything at the same potential. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 6:19 PM, Fred Jensen wrote: > Connecting your equipotential plane to the planet is a mixed bag. If > the connection is direct and big, it's probably fine. If other things > use it and might put significant current spikes into it, you might want > to reconsider. It's sometimes surprising the amount of noise pulses > that can wander around on the "green wire" in a normal residence. If > your house is wired to code, it's connected to the neutral and the > planet at the main electrical entrance [only], which could mean quite a > bit of wire to your shack and lots of inductive reactance in it for very > fast pulses. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
I knew that comment would get someone to jump in Dave ;-) IMX it is much, much harder to damage a diode, even a Schottky, than most MOSFET/FET devices. Also I agree that some RF bipolars, particularly those using the "planar" process that puts a crazy number of bipolar transistors in parallel on the same substrate, can be very touchy. I was trying to differentiate the really sensitive stuff from the relatively insensitive stuff such has most audio/power bipolars and common diodes. If the part comes in ESD packaging, it's smart to treat it as ESD sensitive. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- That's a bit of a careless generalization. Almost any RF bipolar transistor or RF bipolar IC can be rather easily damaged by ESD they typically have very shallow junctions and require very little current to puncture in the reverse bias direction. Almost any small signal Schottky diode or IC with Schottky diode clamps can be easily damaged by ESD. I know ... I used to manage a large enterprise that manufactured them. Dave AB7E __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] "Metal muffin baking tins are good" -- was " K3 ESD"
In reference to the subject of proper ESD protocol, Fred (K6DGW) just posted "Metal muffin baking tins are good". Please note that this is INCORRECT. If a metal muffin baking tin (or any conductor for that matter) were brought into direct contact with an ESD sensitive device, and the two were not already at the same potential, then the rapid momentary current flow (i.e. discharge) could easily zap the ESD sensitive device. ESD mats have a specific surface resistivity to ensure that any potential difference -- between the mat and devices placed on it -- is gradually dissipated over a period of several seconds, as opposed to (I'd guess) somewhere on the order of a few micro seconds for a metal muffin tin. Thus the instantaneous current surge (when coming into contact with the muffin tin) would be on the order of a million times greater. 73, Gary KI4GGX K3 #2724 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
This is one of those threads that recurs periodically, and the answers are always the same. Many plastics will generate a static charge, almost by themselves. Styrofoam is one of the worst, it's why the packing p'nuts fly all over the place and stick to you when you try to cram them into the trash can. Plastic trash bags are another, some seem to come highly charged right out of the box. Thus, styrofoam egg cartons are a huge no-no for parts sorting. The ones made out of recycled newspaper are probably OK. Metal muffin baking tins are good. I clip them to the frame of whatever I'm working on with clip leads. The idea is to make an equipotential conductive plane on your desk that includes the stuff you're working on, all your parts, all your tools [soldering station], and you. #1 goal is, "Don't electrocute yourself." Regardless of how you connect to your body, make sure it goes to your equipotential plane through a high value resistor [1 megohm or so]. Set ESD bags and ESD foam on the chassis or something metallic connected to it to make sure they are at the same potential before opening. Connecting your equipotential plane to the planet is a mixed bag. If the connection is direct and big, it's probably fine. If other things use it and might put significant current spikes into it, you might want to reconsider. It's sometimes surprising the amount of noise pulses that can wander around on the "green wire" in a normal residence. If your house is wired to code, it's connected to the neutral and the planet at the main electrical entrance [only], which could mean quite a bit of wire to your shack and lots of inductive reactance in it for very fast pulses. Anti-static sprays on your cotton clothes, chair, and carpet will help a lot. Working barefooted even more. Working without clothing, although probably helpful in the static generation business poses other risks, see previous post :-) Avoid synthetic and wool clothes ... jeans and a T-shirts are good. I built my KX1, K2, K3, W1, and a couple of small modules without a static mat. I did use a wrist strap, metal sorting trays, and everything was hooked together, generally barefooted but otherwise clothed in my usual shabby cotton shorts and T-shirts. Nothing was purposefully grounded. All the kits worked fine, no ESD problems. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2011 Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2011 - www.cqp.org On 12/18/2010 1:20 PM, ve7ymm wrote: > > I used a static strap and mat when building my K1& K2. I left the sensitive > componants, the ones in esd foam in the bag until needed. I did, however, > sort the other parts into plastic bins with compartments such as are used > for screw assortments. Is this not recomended? If not, what should be > used? Would this be okay if the bins were sprayed with my wife's anti-cling > stuff? > Mark, VE7YMM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
That's a bit of a careless generalization. Almost any RF bipolar transistor or RF bipolar IC can be rather easily damaged by ESD they typically have very shallow junctions and require very little current to puncture in the reverse bias direction. Almost any small signal Schottky diode or IC with Schottky diode clamps can be easily damaged by ESD. I know ... I used to manage a large enterprise that manufactured them. Dave AB7E On 12/18/2010 3:22 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: > Mark, the only really ESD-sensitive parts are those with high impedance > (resistance) gates. Bipolar transistors, resistors, capacitors and other > electrical parts are very hard to damage via ESD, although it is possible if > one gets a good charge built up on one's self then manages to make a nice > fat spark to jump to the part ;-). __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Mark, the only really ESD-sensitive parts are those with high impedance (resistance) gates. Bipolar transistors, resistors, capacitors and other electrical parts are very hard to damage via ESD, although it is possible if one gets a good charge built up on one's self then manages to make a nice fat spark to jump to the part ;-). In today's highly-energy efficient electronics high impedance field-effect "gates" are common. They need as little as a fraction of a volt at almost no current to function. These gates are formed by a conductor terminating in an insulator. The static charge on the conductor forms an electrostatic field that influences current flowing in another part of the semiconductor nearby. To be most sensitive, the insulator is usually only a few *atoms* thick and so is limited to a maximum of only a few volts across it before it punctures and shorts, destroying the device. Just squirming on a seat can instantly produce a charge of hundreds or even thousands of volts on your body. You are unaware of it, even when touching a ground, because the charge is too little current to feel when you touch a ground. But there's plenty of voltage to puncture the insulation in the sensitive gates. Worse, like any insulator, you can damage one without completely destroying it. In that case the performance characteristics of the part are changed in an unpredictable way which can badly affect the performance of the circuit and, eventually, lead to premature failure. Such problems are extremely hard to troubleshoot in the lab and even worse in a field environment. It is not just individual I.C.s or transistors that need careful handling. When a circuit board is removed, disconnecting it from the rest of the radio, the points were the circuit is broken at the connector may leave sensitive gates open and just as susceptible to static damage as the individual part. What you did wearing a strap was fine. It also works to touch a bare metal ground just before handling any board or part and then touching the board or rig it is being installed in to be sure you are all at the same potential. The danger there is that forgetting just once can result in a damaged part. I have a ground right at the edge of my work table (somewhat like Vic's excellent idea with the grounded metal rule on the edge of his table) that I have learned to touch before touching anything inside the rig or any loose boards or components. It's a good habit to learn. I'm so practiced that I notice that even when I'm wearing my wrist strap I automatically touch that ground every time I reach for something. Redundancy is good, Hi! I keep the ESD safe bags that boards and parts are supplied in and put any components or boards that I have out of the circuit in them until I'm ready to reinstall them in the rig. I also have plenty of plastic containers for obviously non-sensitive parts, especially hardware. When disassembling a rig like the K3, I use a separate container for each sub-assembly's hardware. That avoids a lot of checking and measuring to ensure I have the right screws, standoffs, etc., when reassembling the radio. I would not recommend anti-static spray on plastic containers. It wears off. How fast? I don't know. If I really felt it was important to have open containers for sensitive parts, I'd use a metal muffin tin or something similar and connect it to the common ground used by my wrist strap and static-dissipating mat. 73, Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I used a static strap and mat when building my K1 & K2. I left the sensitive componants, the ones in esd foam in the bag until needed. I did, however, sort the other parts into plastic bins with compartments such as are used for screw assortments. Is this not recomended? If not, what should be used? Would this be okay if the bins were sprayed with my wife's anti-cling stuff? Mark, VE7YMM -- __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 headphone jack
Ed, The only one in the Mouser catalog that I have found with the proper schematic and "picture" is Mouser # 161-3503-EX It is on page 1143 of catalog 640 and is made by Kirbiconn. I cannot vouch that this is the same jack stocked at Elecraft since I have not ordered one from Mouser, but it looks to be the correct one. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 4:53 PM, Ed Finn wrote: > Sorry Guys, > > > > I lost the info on this. I need to replace the headphone jack (for the 4th > time). I also need to place an order with Mouser for a sticky relay I have > in a rigblaster. Does anyone know the mouser or switchcraft part number for > the K2 headphone switch? > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Naked
'Chuckle'...OK...I guess the 'blob' of metal from the MIG welder that entered my boot and caused me to star in an unscripted episode of 'Dancing with the Sparks' pales into insignificance. My wife is still laughing at my antics but at least Mr. Happy is remains undamaged in my case the embarrassment level is somewhat less than yours. Enjoy the Xmas break all:-) 73's Gary On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 1:54 PM, Steve Ellington wrote: > Mr. Happy likes the K3 No Solder Kit. > > > Steve > N4LQ > - Original Message - > From: "Rex Lint" > To: "'Phil Townsend'" ; "'Barry'" > Cc: > Sent: Friday, December 17, 2010 10:12 PM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Soldering Naked > > > This same thing happened to me - I was about 35 at the time and I threw the > soldering iron across the room and it landed on the rya shag rug, burning > an > outline of the iron into the wool rug. > > I've still got the scar - see, right here... > > and the project was a HW-202... > > -Rex- > > K1HI > Rex Lint > Merrimack, NH > WWW.QRZ.COM/db/k1hi > > > > -Original Message- > > > Phil Townsend wrote: > >> > >> I was 12 years old... I think it was a Heathkit HW ??? > >> I woke up early ready to sling solder. My bed was next to my > >> "shack/workbench". > >> The parents and sister were all sleeping... > >> Then it happened... > >> A large blob of solder slipped off the iron onto Mr Happy! (My new best > >> friend) > >> Shrieking and shouting... the blob "stuck". > >> The noise from my room awakened Sister and her sleepover friend. (The > one > >> I had the sweets for.) > >> They stormed into my room followed by Mom and Dad. > >> Sisters friend was first into the room causing her to squeal as she > tried > >> to turn around and run out of the door she just came into. > >> Thereby running into Sis and parents. > >> The solder was still stuck and still hot. > >> By parents wanted to call the Doctor...but I had enough humiliation for > >> one day so my Mom gave me the ointment and that was that. > >> Durring breakfast no one said anything about the early morning "event". > >> > >> __ > >> Elecraft mailing list > >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > >> > >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > >> > >> > > > > -- > > View this message in context: > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-ESD-tp5844885p5847272.html > > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > -- Gary VK4FD - Motorhome Mobile http://www.qsl.net/vk4fd/ K3 #679, P3 #546 For everything else there's Mastercard!!! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 headphone jack
Sorry Guys, I lost the info on this. I need to replace the headphone jack (for the 4th time). I also need to place an order with Mouser for a sticky relay I have in a rigblaster. Does anyone know the mouser or switchcraft part number for the K2 headphone switch? Tnx, Ed wa3drc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Mark, I would not put any of the transistors into ordinary plastic bins - I stick them into the ESD foam. The other components (resistors, capacitors and *most* diodes) are not ESD sensitive and can be placed into any sorting thing of your choice. Yes, if things are "winter dry", spray your wife's anti-cling stuff on your clothing, chair, work surface and on the floor under your feet - it may help, and it cannot hurt. I keep a can of that stuff in my car during the winter - when the car "bites" me after I get out and reach to close the door, I spray the seats - it works. I also use it when working on the insides of computers located on a carpeted office floor - good stuff. Static Guard is one brand. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 4:20 PM, ve7ymm wrote: > I used a static strap and mat when building my K1& K2. I left the sensitive > componants, the ones in esd foam in the bag until needed. I did, however, > sort the other parts into plastic bins with compartments such as are used > for screw assortments. Is this not recomended? If not, what should be > used? Would this be okay if the bins were sprayed with my wife's anti-cling > stuff? > Mark, VE7YMM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Hi Mark, I use a anti-static mat and wrist strap also. I prefer a compartment sorter also, but you can get anti static sorter trays, for money, hi. Most are not anti-static and can cause problems. I use 18 egg cartons with the top cut off, no static. The cartons also have another advantage. You can poke the leaded parts vertical through the material. Mel, From: ve7ymm To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sat, December 18, 2010 1:20:54 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD I used a static strap and mat when building my K1 & K2. I left the sensitive componants, the ones in esd foam in the bag until needed. I did, however, sort the other parts into plastic bins with compartments such as are used for screw assortments. Is this not recomended? If not, what should be used? Would this be okay if the bins were sprayed with my wife's anti-cling stuff? Mark, VE7YMM -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-ESD-tp5844885p5848912.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
I used a static strap and mat when building my K1 & K2. I left the sensitive componants, the ones in esd foam in the bag until needed. I did, however, sort the other parts into plastic bins with compartments such as are used for screw assortments. Is this not recomended? If not, what should be used? Would this be okay if the bins were sprayed with my wife's anti-cling stuff? Mark, VE7YMM -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-ESD-tp5844885p5848912.html Sent from the [K3] mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
Wrong. First off, the guy never said anything about connecting the item to ground ... he stated that as long as you were connected to ground you were OK. That's false. It is also false that both of you need to be connected to ground for ESD, although that may be good practice for other reasons. All that is necessary is that you and the stuff you're working on be connected to the same potential. It's basic Ohm's Law 101. Dave AB7E On 12/18/2010 12:49 PM, david m wrote: > > YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's > basic ESD prevention 101. > > >> Message: 2 >> Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700 >> From: David Gilbert >> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD >> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> Message-ID:<4d0b9ad7.9070...@cis-broadband.com> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed >> >> >> >> NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground. You want to >> connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on >> (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on). Connecting >> yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a >> potential between you and the rig. >> > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Fw: Re: Searching archives... now K2 audio output levels
not familiar wit the K2 but if it has an equalizer like the K3 check settings I wondered why my K3 sounded bad and then I remembered I had played wit the equalizer and after resetting it was OK If I boost all frequencies I can pick up additional AF gain that way Bob K3DJC Bob, I agree that is the way to get more audio from the speaker - but the original poster said he had low audio in the headphones as well, so I suspect he has another problem, or very inefficient headphones. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 1:58 PM, Bob wrote: > Well John make it 3. > > My $8 solution was a powered Motorola speaker from a hamfest. As shown > on Tom's, N0SS, here: > > http://www.n0ss.net/index_general.html > > I did change 2 resistors in the feedback loop to set the gain where I > wanted it. > > 73, > Bob > K2TK > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html How to Stay Asleep Cambridge Researchers have developed an all natural sleep aid just for you. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4d0d1e117ae97dc522m03vuc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 seconda antenna
Ciao, concerne la tua domanda per ascoltare con il sub receiver da un'antenna diversa da quella usata in TX. Devi collegare direttamente il cavo d'entrata dell'antenna del secondo ricevitore con il cavetto coassiale accluso su uno dei fori posteriori predisposti. Loro danno un cavetto "tmp" con una presa BNC ad un capo e va fissata appunto in uno di quei fori ausiliari presenti sul retro del K3. Quelli coperti da quei tappi di plastica, se hai montato il K3 li avrai visti di sicuro. Occhio a fare si che l'antenna d'ascolto sia staccata quando vai in trasmissione, fatti un circuitino con in relais che la stacca se no bruci il ricevitore. Saluti, Luigi HB9CXZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
NOT a direct ground - through a high value (1 megohm) resistor, YES. That is basic SAFETY. Connecting your body directly to ground can cause bodily harm or even death if you accidentally come in contact with a source of voltage. Even low voltages can be dangerous if the source is capable of high current (such as a battery). For the same reasons, do not work on a fully conducting work surface - that may be fine for auto mechanic work, but should never be used to work on any electrical or electronic circuits. It is a matter of personal safety. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 2:49 PM, david m wrote: > YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's > basic ESD prevention 101. > >> NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground. You want to >> connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on >> (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on). Connecting >> yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a >> potential between you and the rig. >> __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement
The weekly SSB net will meet tomorrow at 1800z on 14.314 MHz. I will be net control from western Oregon. We'll arrange for relays to try to pull you all in. See you then. 73, Phil NS7P __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD
YES YES YES. Ground both yourself and the item you're working on. It's basic ESD prevention 101. > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 10:16:07 -0700 > From: David Gilbert > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 ESD > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Message-ID: <4d0b9ad7.9070...@cis-broadband.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed > > > > NO no no ... you don't want to connect yourself to ground. You want to > connect yourself to whatever semi-conducting surface you are working on > (the one that the K3 and it's components are resting on). Connecting > yourself to ground merely increases the chance that there will be a > potential between you and the rig. > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] k3 sub receiver ant selsction
Hi Luca, Here is a picture showing what you want to do. http://www.ke7x.com/home/guide-to-the-k3/main-and-sub-rx-antenna-switchi ng It shows the Main Rx connected to ANT1 and the Sub Rx connected to ANT2. You must have Config:KRX3 Ant=ATU. Then turn Sub On (tap SUB) and then either RX ANT or Hold BSET and then tap ANT. When you have this configuration you can switch the antennas back and forth by tapping ANT. Fred Cady fcady at ieee dot org > -Original Message- > From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net > [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of iz0fyl > Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 9:47 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] k3 sub receiver ant selsction > > > Hi folks > just a question. > I' don'nt understand the selection scheme of the sub rx. > In the figures of the manual seems that is possible in the > aux rreceive > using ant1 on main ant ant 2 on sub. > the question is: isit possibile to reiceive on main rx the > anti1 signal and > anthe sub rx the antenna 2 signal? > I tried on my k3 but I hear the ant1 in both the receivers > thanks > luca > 73 de iz0fyl > -- > View this message in context: > http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/k3-sub-receiver-ant-selsc tion-tp5848447p5848447.html > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives... now K2 audio output levels
Bob, I agree that is the way to get more audio from the speaker - but the original poster said he had low audio in the headphones as well, so I suspect he has another problem, or very inefficient headphones. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 1:58 PM, Bob wrote: > Well John make it 3. > > My $8 solution was a powered Motorola speaker from a hamfest. As shown > on Tom's, N0SS, here: > > http://www.n0ss.net/index_general.html > > I did change 2 resistors in the feedback loop to set the gain where I > wanted it. > > 73, > Bob > K2TK > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] k3 sub receiver ant selsction
Luca, Yes, it is possible to hear the subRX on the opposite antenna that the main is listening to. You must have a TMP cable connected between the KAT3 and the antenna input of the subRX - that cable is not installed on factory-built K3s, but the extra TMP cable is shipped with the K3. The antenna that is NOT connected to the Main RX will be heard when the AUX ANT is selected for the SubRX. If the two antennas are not well separated, you may hear the COR in the sub being activated during transmit (clicking noise during transmit). See Figure 4 on page 43 of the manual. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 11:46 AM, iz0fyl wrote: > Hi folks > just a question. > I' don'nt understand the selection scheme of the sub rx. > In the figures of the manual seems that is possible in the aux rreceive > using ant1 on main ant ant 2 on sub. > the question is: isit possibile to reiceive on main rx the anti1 signal and > anthe sub rx the antenna 2 signal? > I tried on my k3 but I hear the ant1 in both the receivers > thanks > luca > 73 de iz0fyl __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives/audio amplifier
I would check the voltage in the AF chain and amp and look at the output waveform with a scope. Fix it rather than bandage it. Mel From: Dave Hachadorian To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Sat, December 18, 2010 10:40:48 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives/audio amplifier Here's a cute little $9.99 (shipped from Hong Kong) audio amp that I use with my K3's: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Hi-Fi-Stereo-Audio-Amplifier-Car-Motorcycle-/290506078266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a382f83a If you have trouble with that URL, it's ebay item number 290506078266. I bought the unit from that seller, but it is available from others. The audio out is pretty clean if you turn down the bass & treble controls. I connect one K3 line output to the left channel, and the other K3 to the right channel. I've only had it for only a few days now, and haven't run high power on any band other than 160, but it is immune to RF on that band at least. 160 is usually a troublesome band for RFI. The case is aluminum. On the K3's set line out = phones. With this external amp, and protective Schottky diodes across the output, I'm hoping to expand the K3's overall usable dynamic range with agc off. I'll give it a workout in the 160 Stew Perry contest tonight. The rainbow flashing lights behind the volume control are goofy, but you get used to it. There is another audio amp on ebay that wasn't there a few weeks ago: http://cgi.ebay.com/AV608-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier-Amp-Mp3-Mp4-Ipod-Car-/260708878380?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3cb375c82c It claims to have higher power out, and comes with a DC cable. I probably would have bought that one if it had been available. I have not tested it, but it looks interesting. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, AZ -Original Message- From: Tony Estep Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 10:40 AM To: Ian Liston-Smith Cc: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives... On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote: > > ...the audio is only just loud enough. I have the volume up > full I can't speak for others, but my K2 behaves the same, Ian. More audio output would be nice. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives... now K2 audio output levels
Well John make it 3. My $8 solution was a powered Motorola speaker from a hamfest. As shown on Tom's, N0SS, here: http://www.n0ss.net/index_general.html I did change 2 resistors in the feedback loop to set the gain where I wanted it. 73, Bob K2TK On 12/18/2010 1:23 PM, John Ragle wrote: > This seems quite anomalous...my K2 (and my K3) will blow one out of the > room at half-setting or lower on the AF gain control...implying that > something is quite amiss specifically with the two K2's in question. > > John Ragle -- W1ZI > > = > > On 12/18/2010 12:40 PM, Tony Estep wrote: > >> ...More audio output would be nice. >> > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] A New K3 is hatched.
Good day all Elecrafters; My new K3 is alive and well. thanks to the grand engineering efforts by the people we all know and respect. I especially wish to send my Christmas greetings and good wishes to the people "below decks" that row the oars. The people who made sure my building experience was in keeping with the Elecraft Excellence, the parts packers. Ryan, Susan, Stephanie and Christine. All did a flawless job and I wanted to say Thanks! Merry Christmas and Best Regards. Bob K7HBG __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives...
Ian, I would tend to believe that you have a problem in the receive path. Turn to the Troubleshooting Appendix in the manual and find the section dealing with Receive Signal Tracing and go through those steps to discover which is the failing stage. If you need further help, just ask here - but tell us which options you have installed. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 10:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote: > How can I do this? I don't really want to search through each month's > separately to find "K2 low audio" which is what I'm looking for. > > (Well, while I'm here, K2 s/n 6905 has just been aligned using Don Wilhelm's > instructions and is working ok, but the audio is only just loud enough. I > have the volume up full when using a range of low/medium impedance phones or > the speaker. Is this normal? I know the LM380 won't fill the room, but should > give comfortable headphone listening...) > > Thanks and regards, > > Ian, G4JQT > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives/audio amplifier
Here's a cute little $9.99 (shipped from Hong Kong) audio amp that I use with my K3's: http://cgi.ebay.com/Mini-Hi-Fi-Stereo-Audio-Amplifier-Car-Motorcycle-/290506078266?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43a382f83a If you have trouble with that URL, it's ebay item number 290506078266. I bought the unit from that seller, but it is available from others. The audio out is pretty clean if you turn down the bass & treble controls. I connect one K3 line output to the left channel, and the other K3 to the right channel. I've only had it for only a few days now, and haven't run high power on any band other than 160, but it is immune to RF on that band at least. 160 is usually a troublesome band for RFI. The case is aluminum. On the K3's set line out = phones. With this external amp, and protective Schottky diodes across the output, I'm hoping to expand the K3's overall usable dynamic range with agc off. I'll give it a workout in the 160 Stew Perry contest tonight. The rainbow flashing lights behind the volume control are goofy, but you get used to it. There is another audio amp on ebay that wasn't there a few weeks ago: http://cgi.ebay.com/AV608-Audio-Stereo-Amplifier-Amp-Mp3-Mp4-Ipod-Car-/260708878380?pt=Car_Amplifiers&hash=item3cb375c82c It claims to have higher power out, and comes with a DC cable. I probably would have bought that one if it had been available. I have not tested it, but it looks interesting. Dave Hachadorian, K6LL Yuma, AZ -Original Message- From: Tony Estep Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 10:40 AM To: Ian Liston-Smith Cc: Elecraft List Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives... On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote: > > ...the audio is only just loud enough. I have the volume up > full I can't speak for others, but my K2 behaves the same, Ian. More audio output would be nice. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Audio Output Level (WAS: Searching archives...)
Is Tony using the internal speaker? My K2 has lots of volume too, for phones or its internal speaker, but Elecraft uses a fairly efficient speaker in either the QRP or K2/100. Some external speakers are not nearly as efficient. They assume lots of watts of audio are available to drive them. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- This seems quite anomalous...my K2 (and my K3) will blow one out of the room at half-setting or lower on the AF gain control...implying that something is quite amiss specifically with the two K2's in question. John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 12/18/2010 12:40 PM, Tony Estep wrote: > ...More audio output would be nice. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] wading pool,tony, just ordered
just hit the send button for my k-3 kit. come on ups!!! s/tony rowland __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3?
Hi George: Just heard you on 10 meters a couple of minutes ago calling CQ on CW. Although I don't use a P3 (My new roof just finished being installed a couple of hours ago, so the P3 will wait for later in 2011), my setup is the following: "Real" com port 1 from my computer goes to side B of the switch. The MicroHam MK2 serial output goes to port A. There is a standard RS232 cable going from the common output of the switch feeding the serial input of the K3. When I need to load software or do any adjustments with K3-EZ or the Utilities, I switch to the "real" comp port. When I operate, I switch to the MicroHam. You can do this while the MicroHam is online, and it does not bother it. The frequency display on its front panel shows dashes until I switch back to the MicroHam output on the switch. Its transparent and I have never run into any issues with this setup at all. -lu-W4LT- --- Message: 23 Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2010 22:45:10 EST From: georgek...@aol.com Subject: [Elecraft] Use of DB9 Switch with K3? To: supp...@microham.com, elecraft@mailman.qth.net Message-ID: <2b4b3.72d9996.3a3d8...@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" At times, my microHam CW Keyer is connected to my K3 via the P3. However, when I want to download new firmware for the K3, I have to disconnect the CW Keyer from the RS232 port, and connect the DB9 from the computer's serial port to the K3 via the P3. Can I use a DB9 A/B switch to switch between the the two DB9 cables without creating any problems? 73, George George Wagner, K5KG Sarasota, FL 941-400-1960 cell No virus found in this outgoing message Checked by PC Tools AntiVirus (6.1.0.25 - 6.14880). http://www.pctools.com/free-antivirus/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives...
This seems quite anomalous...my K2 (and my K3) will blow one out of the room at half-setting or lower on the AF gain control...implying that something is quite amiss specifically with the two K2's in question. John Ragle -- W1ZI = On 12/18/2010 12:40 PM, Tony Estep wrote: > ...More audio output would be nice. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives...
On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 9:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote: > > ...the audio is only just loud enough. I have the volume up full I can't speak for others, but my K2 behaves the same, Ian. More audio output would be nice. Tony KT0NY __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] k3 sub receiver ant selsction
Hi folks just a question. I' don'nt understand the selection scheme of the sub rx. In the figures of the manual seems that is possible in the aux rreceive using ant1 on main ant ant 2 on sub. the question is: isit possibile to reiceive on main rx the anti1 signal and anthe sub rx the antenna 2 signal? I tried on my k3 but I hear the ant1 in both the receivers thanks luca 73 de iz0fyl -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/k3-sub-receiver-ant-selsction-tp5848447p5848447.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Keyboards
A little off-topic, but is anybody currently supplying a good keyboard which will interface with a usb-connected board or even a wireless connection? Don't need a code reader, but some programmable memories would be nice. Understand K1EN is out of production for a while. No need to start a new thread; Direct E Mail responses would be fine with me. 73's to all Bill N6FB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Searching archives...
Go through the Elecraft page, "Email list (reflector)" link in the blue box on the main page. Pick one of the Nabble searchable lists, one that lists by thread.73, Guy. On Sat, Dec 18, 2010 at 10:48 AM, Ian Liston-Smith wrote: > > How can I do this? I don't really want to search through each month's > separately to find "K2 low audio" which is what I'm looking for. > > (Well, while I'm here, K2 s/n 6905 has just been aligned using Don Wilhelm's > instructions and is working ok, but the audio is only just loud enough. I > have the volume up full when using a range of low/medium impedance phones or > the speaker. Is this normal? I know the LM380 won't fill the room, but should > give comfortable headphone listening...) > > Thanks and regards, > > Ian, G4JQT > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Searching archives...
How can I do this? I don't really want to search through each month's separately to find "K2 low audio" which is what I'm looking for. (Well, while I'm here, K2 s/n 6905 has just been aligned using Don Wilhelm's instructions and is working ok, but the audio is only just loud enough. I have the volume up full when using a range of low/medium impedance phones or the speaker. Is this normal? I know the LM380 won't fill the room, but should give comfortable headphone listening...) Thanks and regards, Ian, G4JQT __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] IC Socket
Russ, Why make the static sensitivity problem potentially worse - just solder it onto the board taking reasonable anti-static measures when you do. Once soldered onto the board, the IC is no longer static sensitive because its input(s) are no longer floating. Touch a grounded bare metal surface before removing the IC from the anti-static foam and touch a ground on the board before putting the IC into the holes. The idea is to keep everything at the same potential. You can take another step and work on an anti-static mat and wear an anti-static wrist strap. Another good thing to do is to spray Static Guard on and under your work surface, your chair and your clothing - wear no nylon (or other static creating) clothing - cotton is good. 73, Don W3FPR On 12/18/2010 10:06 AM, Russ WD5RS wrote: > I am working on the KAF2 audio filter for my K2; at least I will be as soon > as the missing voltage regulator makes it thru the Christmas mail. Naturally > my junk boxes have 5V, 8V, 9V, 12V etc., but no 6V regulators! Hi Hi ! > > The instructions state that the real time clock IC is static sensitive. Can > I put this IC in an 8 pin header rather than soldering it to the board? > > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] IC Socket
I am working on the KAF2 audio filter for my K2; at least I will be as soon as the missing voltage regulator makes it thru the Christmas mail. Naturally my junk boxes have 5V, 8V, 9V, 12V etc., but no 6V regulators! Hi Hi ! The instructions state that the real time clock IC is static sensitive. Can I put this IC in an 8 pin header rather than soldering it to the board? Russ WD5RS 10-10# 37287 FISTS 9162 Grid EM12mc K2 #6997 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] A Mini Module I would love to see (AC0LP)
Hi, DX engineering has several commercial products: http://www.dxengineering.com/Sections.asp?ID=33&DeptID=17#Top I also saw in a QST (sorry, don't remember which: I've been re-reading QST's from the last few years) an IP driven RF controlled remote. I suspect a lot more expensive, but it had a range of several hundred feet. Regards, kurtt Kurt Pawlikowski, AKA WB9FMC The Pinrod Corporation ku...@pinrod.com (773) 284-9500 http://pinrod.com On 12/17/2010 14:50, Alan Bloom wrote: > Many years ago I built a remote antenna switch that allowed feeding up > to 4 antennas from the same feedline. The feedline also was used for > the control signal, so no additional wires were needed. > > It was a very simple circuit. The switch box at the top of the tower > contained 5 coax connectors, two DPDT relays, two diodes, an RF choke > and a couple capacitors. The control box in the shack contained 2 coax > connectors, a 60-Hz power transformer, a 4-position switch, an RF choke, > two diodes and a couple capacitors. > > The schematic is at http://www.cds1.net/~n1al/ham/ant_switch.GIF > > The electrolytic capacitors in the switch box may not be needed, > depending on the relays. I believe I used 0.1 uF for the coupling and > bypass capacitors something like 22 or 47 uH for the RF chokes. (A > smaller choke might be required for VHF.) The transformer was chosen to > provide the correct relay voltage. You may need to add resistors in > series with the relay coils to fine-tune the voltage. > > Al N1AL > > > On Fri, 2010-12-17 at 07:48 -0800, Jobst Vandrey wrote: >> A small board to insert 12 volts DC on the Coax at the shack and a similar >> board to pick it up at the antenna end to run relays or power remote tuners >> without impacting the RF carried on the coax. I really do not want to run a >> second set of cables just for this purpose. It would be great if it was >> configured with some more or less standard DPDT relay positions (optional of >> course) that could be populated as needed by the user to meet various >> switching needs. >> >> MFJ does offer such a beast (4116 and 4117 without the relays) - but I admit >> to some significant uncertainty in the quality of the design and the of the >> components used in the manufacturing. >> >> Jobst Vandrey >> AC0LP >> >> >> >> __ >> Elecraft mailing list >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net >> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
