Re: [Elecraft] K3 RX Audio

2013-07-27 Thread Trevor Dunne
Thank you all that replied to me direct and via the mailing list, There is too 
many to reply to,
 
There was a good balance between positive and negative, But I think I can be 
happy to proceed with getting a K3 and not worry about this issue.
 
Thanks again


Trevor
EI2GLB

From: Trevor Dunne trevor_du...@yahoo.com
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, 19 July 2013, 12:16
Subject: K3 RX Audio



Hi All

I am allmost ready to order my K3 but I keep reading about people that are 
unhappy with the RX audio,

Is this still a problem or has there been changes made to slove it, Can someone 
point me to a good guide on how to set the RX up to remove the harsh sounding 
audio.

I will mainly be using a headset as DXing is my main interest.

 
Thanks
Trevor
EI2GLB
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31

2013-07-27 Thread Stephen M. Shearer
First, I have SignaLink and microHAM as interfaces between rig and computer.
I like microHAM because it also reads the rig mode and frequency without
needing a second USB port.  (I also have older microHAM units that need a
separate sound card port)
I patch direct (now) with my KX3 to the laptop.
I do PSK31 and low level modes like JT65.
Something to think about if you want to do the low level modes is how GOOD
is the sound card.  24 bit and 48K with 100db SNR would be good for JT65
(not required).
Keeping system sounds away from the rig is important.
I just purchased another sound card ~$25 (USB) for the laptop and JT65 so I
CAN also hear (system sounds) the announcements for JT65 Alerts when NEW
countries pop up...  Specs were weak but I am hoping it is 24 bit...
You CAN turn OFF all the system sounds and use a single sound port.  Useful
IF the computer is single use.

73, steve WB3LGC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Rick Bates
Sent: 27 July, 2013 1:36 AM
To: 'william wade'; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31

First let's explain what Wayne meant:  If you use a secondary sound
card/device, you won't accidentally transmit an operating system sound (many
of which are musical).  You also won't have to constantly twiddle with
levels as you switch from OS to the radio.  And it allows you to have the
computer alert you to DX or whatever you have it set to do, without
transmitting that sound, while you're operating in a digital more (the
computer is quite capable of having two or more sound cards at the same
time).

I use a SignaLink (Tigertronics).  But there are far cheaper and expensive
options, including one I recently saw at another shack that cost a whopping
$5.78 after tax and shipping.  It failed from structural weakness (SMD
connector broke from the board, overstressed) but it did work before that.

So between $5 and whatever the fanciest device costs is what you'll pay.
They all work, but you'll likely want a little more quality than the
cheapest.

Jim Brown has done a study of several models and can list some potential
watchouts (poor bonding, pin one issues etc) so maybe he'll chime in here.

The bottom line (to me) is that you have a serious radio, you're building a
serious station, why diddle around with being cheap on a critical part, the
sound card by trying to multiuse the computer sound card.  That's like
putting retread tires on a sports car.  ;o)

73,

Rick wa6nhc

-Original Message-
From: william wade

Hello all: Getting ready to set up PSK31 on my K3  following the operating
tips outlined by Wayne. He states: It is usually best to use a second sound
card for...digital modes. Is he referring to something like Tigertronics?


73

Bill, Ai4PF

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Top Cover

2013-07-27 Thread Tim

Hi All,

Just wondered if anyone had a spare top cover for a K2 complete with all 
the fittings that they may have spare after building and installing a 
KPA100.
I have installed my KPA100 and KAT100 into a EC2 enclosure and need a 
complete cover to finish the project.  The original top cover did not 
come with the K2/KPA100 when I bought it s/h.


73

Tim

gm4lmh
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31

2013-07-27 Thread Edward R Cole
I recently downloaded FLdigi 3.21.72 to my XP32 computer and have my 
K3/10 set up using the external emu0202 USB soundcard I bought 
originally to go with my LP-Pan panadaptor (SDR).  The emu has manual 
level controls which makes set up changes easy when going between different sw.


I also have M-Audio Delta-44 four port soundcard that I only use for 
receive when doing diversity reception.  I has a card that installs 
in the computer and interface unit which uses a sub-D15 cable.  The 
Delta-44 is mainly used for dual-pol adaptive reception on 2m-eme.


I have the partially failed internal soundcard disabled.

I will be making a maiden cruise of psk-31 this evening for a sked 
at 2200 AKDST (0600z) on 7070 KHz running 12w to an 
inverted-V.  FLdigi seems to be working well on 14.070 in both psk-31 
and CW.  (Yes, I know this non-std freq on 40m for psk-31).


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
dubus...@gmail.com
Kits made by KL7UW 


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[Elecraft] KAT-500 and 30' Flag Pole Antenna Users?

2013-07-27 Thread John Fritze
I live in a small suburban lot, 65 x 125 +/- and have used simple vertical
antennas remotely tuned for years, several variations.  My main operating
consists of casual DXing, contesting, and a lot of Emcomm operating.  I
settled on this type of antenna because on my sailboat I have used a
remotely tuned back stay to great success.  Of course all that salt water
doesn't hurt either.  My shack is about 125 feet from my antenna so I have
a long run of coax and it had to be buried.

Currently I am using 55 feet of tubing purchased from DX engineering, on
their tilt over bracket with about 40 radials as long and straight
(although some are bent or curved) as possible. Non are cut to a particular
length.  I laid out the radials using an edger so they are just under the
sod.  Yes it looks bizarre for a few weeks until the grass covers over the
slits, but I have tried the yard wire staples and have found that they work
their way up in a few spots in my yard.

My current tuner is the MFJ 998RT.  Although it doesn't get good reviews, I
have had no problems.  In the past I have used SGC tuners and they work
flawlessly.  I purchased the MFJ because the 998RT comes with the power
injectors, and it is capable of 1500 watts tuning.

Currently I am using the KPA500 with this set up and have received very
good signal reports.  I just have to tune the vertical for the band
barefoot and then activate the amp.  Yes, there is an extra step that takes
time and in a contest a second here and there can make or break you.

So here's the bottom line, a vertical antenna is a very low take off
antenna when properly installed (good DX antenna).  Remote tuners REQUIRE A
GOOD GROUND SYSTEM.  Note the caps  The ground wires act like the salt
water, so the more the merrier.  I have found a simple vertical pipe
remotely tuned works far better and with less trouble than the several
commercial multi band ham antennas on the market.  Remotely tuning this
type of vertical is MUCH BETTER than the tuner in the shack and running
coax out to the antenna.  The SWR for coax effectively should be flat, so
it makes sense to put the tuner at the antenna, as that's what you have to
tune,not the coax.  Sometimes vertical antennas are susceptible to
vertically polarized QRM (human generated noise).  The K3 and KX3, because
of the phenomenal filtering and noise reduction circuitry can make signals
readable that were not with other radios I have owned.  Is this the
greatest antenna on earth? Certainly not, but it works and you will easily
make contacts even QRP.  It gives 80-10 meters and some 160 in a tiny foot
print at generally a 1.2 /1 SWR.

If you wish more input or construction details feel free to email off list
at my call at arrl.net.  73 de,

-- 
John Fritze Jr
K2QY
AARA president 2013
ACACES secretary 2013
Albany County RACES Radio Officer
ARES ENY DEC Northern District
Hudson Div. Asst. Director
Twitter: @k2qy
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[Elecraft] FS - Delta 44

2013-07-27 Thread Bob W7AVK
For sale a M-Audio Delta-44 Professional 24 bit, 96khz, 4 port in/4 out 
sound card.   Card plugs into a PCI bus and uses an external interface 
unit which is included.  Detailed specs and information in the manual at 
http://www.m-audio.com/images/global/manuals/Delta44_Manual.pdf


Asking $65 which includes priority postage.  Paypal OK

73  Bob  W7AVK
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Re: [Elecraft] PSK 31

2013-07-27 Thread EricJ
I was using the computer sound card temporarily for PSK31 and then JT65. 
I bought a quality sound card emu 0204 for use with LP-PAN. I hooked it 
up to try it for digital modes and the results were significant for weak 
signals. I could dig 3-6 db further into the mud for weak signals with 
the much better sound card. It didn't make much difference on strong 
signals, but it brought in a whole lot more workable weak signals.


I now have a SignaLink as I needed the 0204 for the panadapter. I think 
the 0204 still has a very slight edge, but I haven't really done any 
extensive testing. Both are far better than what came with my Dell desktop.


I agree with your advice. You have a great receiver to pull out weak 
signals. Now get something comparable to translate them. Get something 
decent to begin with, then move on to something else to worry about.


Eric
KE6US
On 7/26/2013 10:35 PM, Rick Bates wrote:


The bottom line (to me) is that you have a serious radio, you're building a
serious station, why diddle around with being cheap on a critical part, the
sound card by trying to multiuse the computer sound card.  That's like
putting retread tires on a sports car.  ;o)

73,

Rick wa6nhc



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 and 30' Flag Pole Antenna Users?

2013-07-27 Thread David Bunte
Javier -

I have some thoughts on this matter, but not a LOT of answers.  I see that
you got a response from someone telling you about their vertical (not like
yours), and the MFJ tuner (not the KAT500).  What he said about putting the
tuner at the antenna makes a lot of sense, but I tried the MFJ at the base
of my 30' Zero Five, and it could not find a good match on all bands.  It
did better, further away from the antenna, and I am sure that is because
the loss in the coax between the tuner and the antenna, changed the system
parameters enough that the tuner had a better chance of handling the
mismatch.

I actually tried a KAT500 with my Flag Pole.  The tuner belonged to a
friend, and we were both curious to see how it would handle the Flag Pole.
As I recall, it did find a match on 80 through 10, but it seems to me that
it had a real hard time doing so on some bands.  The native SWR on the
antenna is quite high on some bands, presenting a greater challenge.  I do
not own an amp so I can't answer all your questions.

I may have mentioned that I am now using an older Palstar AT-AUTO, and it
works extremely well.  It is not as fast as the Elecraft, but all I do is
press the XMIT button on the K3 and the tuner finds a match in a very
reasonable time, at about 10 watts.  I do not have a lot of room on my
desk, and as I believe I mentioned, I placed the tuner closer to the
antenna than my shack.  I have a 40' run of coax to the tuner, and then 30'
from the tuner to the un-un at the antenna.  From the day it was installed,
it has been 100% RELIABLE when changing bands.  I also borrowed a 500 watt
tuner from a friend, and the tuner handles that power very well.  In fact,
I briefly tried a Ten-Tec Titan at 1000 watts, and at 1500 watts.  On most
bands the tuner handled that power very well, but one 80 meters, the power
out and SWR jumped around a bit, making me believe that there was some
arcing in the un-un, the tuner, or the amp.  If it had been in the amp, I
believe I would have heard it... I backed off the power at once.  At 800
watts it was stable, but I was afraid to take it up higher again...
afterall the amp was not mine, and I did not want to replace the tuner or
the un-un.

When you get the antenna installation complete, I would recommend that you
carefully plot and record the SWR on all bands, without a tuner.  Be sure
to use a good SWR bridge, watt meter, or antenna analyzer.  Then look at
that information and you well get a good idea if the KAT500 will likely be
able to handle it.  If your SWR curves are like mine, you may find that on
some bands the numbers fall outside of the indicated tuning range of the
KAT500.  I did not try the KAT500 at the place in my coax that my Palstar
tuner is located... just on my desk by the K3.

When I get a KPA500, I will may borrow a KAT500 and try that combination.
At first I thought that not having INSTANT band change capability would be
a negative... but I am not into contests, just casual DX and lots of rag
chews.  I do want more power than 100 watts, but I think I am going to
stick with this tuner.  In fact, the friend who had the Titan amplifier has
two of the Palstar tuners.  He has asked me to help sell one of them.  If I
did not already own this one, I would buy his... HI.

I realize that I could not fully answer all your questions, but perhaps
this has been of some help.


Very 73 de Dave - K9FN


On Sat, Jul 27, 2013 at 12:36 AM, Javier Campos nm6e_...@sbcglobal.netwrote:




 Looking for any feedback on the use of the KAT-500 with a 30' Flag Pole
 (Zero-Five) Antennas under 100 watts and if an Amp is used, that would be
 nice to get some feedback.

 I've moved into an HOA zone and will be putting up a Zero-Five 30 foot
 flag pole and looking to get a tuner as I have an Acom-1011 Amp (want to
 switch to the KPA-500). The antenna will use a 4:1 UNUN.

 Let me know how the KAT-500 and if you have the KPA-500 (or any amp for
 that matter) works with the flag pole etc.

 I plan on being active on all bands 80-10

 Thanks

 Javier NM6E/5
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[Elecraft] Firmware

2013-07-27 Thread Richard Thorpe
Is it time for some great and useful new firmware for our Elecraft products?

K6CG/VE1
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[Elecraft] For Sale : Elecraft Edition Hex Key

2013-07-27 Thread Anthony DeBiasi
For Sale:  Bencher Hex Key, Elecraft Edition Serial # E0494.  The key and cover 
are in very good condition.  This key is from the Estate of K2GN, it is not 
engraved.  $175 or best offer plus shipping.  

...Tony K2SG
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware

2013-07-27 Thread Matt Moller
It's always a good time for new and/or improved features.  Did you have 
anything particular in mind?


Matt Moller
KG6KSL
K3 #3496

On 7/27/2013 12:00 PM, Richard Thorpe wrote:

Is it time for some great and useful new firmware for our Elecraft products?

K6CG/VE1
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[Elecraft] PSK 31

2013-07-27 Thread william wade
Thanks to all who helped with my last query. The information really helped me. 
I use Digipan   Signalink. The PC OS is Windows 7 64bit. I Followed the setup 
instructions for windows 7 given by Signalink and those by Wayne in his 
operating tips. I set the K3 to 14.070,and I seem to be receiving cq's and 
messages on the right side of the screen, The left side of the screen is 
garbage, which remains static., 

If I am OK so far, then I need to know a lot more about how to setup the 
screen. Is there some reliable source  I can access that will assist me in that 
regard? Any kind of help will also be appreciated.

 73  thanks,

Bill, Ai4PF
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[Elecraft] KAT2 completion problem

2013-07-27 Thread Tyler Barnett
I've been working very slowly on a KAT2, and everything was going well and 
checking out correctly.
All the relays are working, and I finally arrived at the C55 Bridge Null 
Adjustment step.

When I put the K2 into TUNE, I got a Hi Curr on the panel, and no output 
power.
Not only that, but an antenna connected to port 1 of the ATU doesn't hear any 
signals.

A few steps beyond this it asks me to check pin 1 of U4 (LM358) for 0 volts 
during receive, which is OK.
During TUNE, the voltage isn't 3-4 volts, it's like 0.7 volts.
Ohand then I realized that I had already installed R6 earlier, instead of 
after the voltage check.

The shield coax of J7 is closer to the side panel of the K2 when plugged into 
J6, per the supplied addendum note.
I was very careful taking the bottom cover off, and restoring the PA screws and 
washers.
This was done to install a new J6, which was installed backwards by the 
previous owner.

The resistance between ground and the collector of both PA transistors is 87 
ohms.
The KAT2 manual says this should be higher than 100 ohms, so I don't know if 
this is substantial or not.

At this point, I'm stumped.  Comments welcome.
BTW, before I installed the KAT2, the K2 worked perfectly.

73, Tyler N4TY

 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 and 30' Flag Pole Antenna Users?

2013-07-27 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
The fact that the tuner may run longer to find a match on some frequencies
means nothing. If it finds a match, the match is as good as if it found it
instantly and there are no higher losses in the tuner and antenna system
associated with the longer search times. 

Also remember when trying the KAT500 with a new antenna, pressing TUNE again
immediately after the search stops will cause it to repeat using finer steps
of L and C which can often improve the match. That also means nothing in
terms of the efficiency of the system. It simply indicates that, possibly,
the antenna Q is high enough that the point of low SWR is rather narrow.
In that case you can expect the KAT500 to retune more frequently when
operated in AUTO mode as you QSY around the band. 

When the antenna is electrically short (e.g. less than 1/4 wavelength) on
the operating frequency, a high Q  requiring frequent retuning indicates
the antenna system is quite efficient. Low Q - wide SWR bandwidth - in an
electrically short antenna is a solid indication there are losses in the
system. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Bunte
Sent: Saturday, July 27, 2013 10:58 AM
To: Javier Campos
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT-500 and 30' Flag Pole Antenna Users?

Javier -

I have some thoughts on this matter, but not a LOT of answers.  I see that
you got a response from someone telling you about their vertical (not like
yours), and the MFJ tuner (not the KAT500).  What he said about putting the
tuner at the antenna makes a lot of sense, but I tried the MFJ at the base
of my 30' Zero Five, and it could not find a good match on all bands.  It
did better, further away from the antenna, and I am sure that is because the
loss in the coax between the tuner and the antenna, changed the system
parameters enough that the tuner had a better chance of handling the
mismatch.

I actually tried a KAT500 with my Flag Pole.  The tuner belonged to a
friend, and we were both curious to see how it would handle the Flag Pole.
As I recall, it did find a match on 80 through 10, but it seems to me that
it had a real hard time doing so on some bands.  The native SWR on the
antenna is quite high on some bands, presenting a greater challenge.  I do
not own an amp so I can't answer all your questions.

I may have mentioned that I am now using an older Palstar AT-AUTO, and it
works extremely well.  It is not as fast as the Elecraft, but all I do is
press the XMIT button on the K3 and the tuner finds a match in a very
reasonable time, at about 10 watts.  I do not have a lot of room on my
desk, and as I believe I mentioned, I placed the tuner closer to the antenna
than my shack.  I have a 40' run of coax to the tuner, and then 30'
from the tuner to the un-un at the antenna.  From the day it was installed,
it has been 100% RELIABLE when changing bands.  I also borrowed a 500 watt
tuner from a friend, and the tuner handles that power very well.  In fact, I
briefly tried a Ten-Tec Titan at 1000 watts, and at 1500 watts.  On most
bands the tuner handled that power very well, but one 80 meters, the power
out and SWR jumped around a bit, making me believe that there was some
arcing in the un-un, the tuner, or the amp.  If it had been in the amp, I
believe I would have heard it... I backed off the power at once.  At 800
watts it was stable, but I was afraid to take it up higher again...
afterall the amp was not mine, and I did not want to replace the tuner or
the un-un.

When you get the antenna installation complete, I would recommend that you
carefully plot and record the SWR on all bands, without a tuner.  Be sure to
use a good SWR bridge, watt meter, or antenna analyzer.  Then look at that
information and you well get a good idea if the KAT500 will likely be able
to handle it.  If your SWR curves are like mine, you may find that on some
bands the numbers fall outside of the indicated tuning range of the KAT500.
I did not try the KAT500 at the place in my coax that my Palstar tuner is
located... just on my desk by the K3.

When I get a KPA500, I will may borrow a KAT500 and try that combination.
At first I thought that not having INSTANT band change capability would be a
negative... but I am not into contests, just casual DX and lots of rag
chews.  I do want more power than 100 watts, but I think I am going to stick
with this tuner.  In fact, the friend who had the Titan amplifier has two of
the Palstar tuners.  He has asked me to help sell one of them.  If I did not
already own this one, I would buy his... HI.

I realize that I could not fully answer all your questions, but perhaps this
has been of some help.


Very 73 de Dave - K9FN


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This 

[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB Net Announcement

2013-07-27 Thread Phil Shepard

The weekly SSB net will meet tomorrow (7/28) at 1800z on 14.3035 MHz. I will be 
net control from western Oregon. See you then. 

73,
Phil NS7P


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT2 completion problem

2013-07-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tyler,

Your results are unusual.
Remove the KAT2.  Does the base K2 still work OK?  If not, something has 
happened in the meantime.


It would seem that you do not have a good path between the K2 and the 
antenna (or perhaps a short to ground).

Check the KAT2 carefully for solder bridges.

With the KAT2 in CAL P mode, you should have zero ohms resistance 
between the center conductor of the input coax and he ANT1 jack of the 
KAT2. ANT1 (with the KAT2 in CALP or CALs mode).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/27/2013 10:34 PM, Tyler Barnett wrote:

I've been working very slowly on a KAT2, and everything was going well and 
checking out correctly.
All the relays are working, and I finally arrived at the C55 Bridge Null 
Adjustment step.

When I put the K2 into TUNE, I got a Hi Curr on the panel, and no output 
power.
Not only that, but an antenna connected to port 1 of the ATU doesn't hear any 
signals.

A few steps beyond this it asks me to check pin 1 of U4 (LM358) for 0 volts 
during receive, which is OK.
During TUNE, the voltage isn't 3-4 volts, it's like 0.7 volts.
Ohand then I realized that I had already installed R6 earlier, instead of 
after the voltage check.

The shield coax of J7 is closer to the side panel of the K2 when plugged into 
J6, per the supplied addendum note.
I was very careful taking the bottom cover off, and restoring the PA screws and 
washers.
This was done to install a new J6, which was installed backwards by the 
previous owner.

The resistance between ground and the collector of both PA transistors is 87 
ohms.
The KAT2 manual says this should be higher than 100 ohms, so I don't know if 
this is substantial or not.

At this point, I'm stumped.  Comments welcome.
BTW, before I installed the KAT2, the K2 worked perfectly.




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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware

2013-07-27 Thread Wayne Burdick
Coincidentally, there will be a new release of KX3 firmware next week (beta) 
with the CW-in-SSB-mode feature working. Also managed to get in another minor 
improvement, to APF, where the status of 1-Hz tuning is preserved when APF is 
turned on/off.

73,
Wayne
N6KR

On Jul 27, 2013, at 12:00 PM, Richard Thorpe kis...@me.com wrote:

 Is it time for some great and useful new firmware for our Elecraft products?
 
 K6CG/VE1
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