[Elecraft] Using KX3 with CW Skimmer

2013-09-28 Thread Denis Jackson
Having now given up any hope of ever getting my Perseus SDR to work reliably 
under Windows 7 with CW Skimmer, 
I'm now looking for another SDR Rx. I have been using the Perseus as a 
panadaptor with my K3 for quite a few years.  I love Elecraft products and 
wonder if a KX3 is the way to go?

My question is how do you set things up so the KX3 can work with Skimmer?  I 
don't see a KX3 (or K3) option on the Skimmer setup.   Assuming there is a way 
of doing it, what kind of bandwidth is available?

I'd also like to know if anyone regularly uses this combination for monitoring 
propagation using the beacon network on 6m. If so, what are your experiences?

Thanks and 73

Denis MW0CBC / GW8OQV


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[Elecraft] K2/K3/KX3/P3 Android Phone Apps

2013-09-28 Thread Michael Downs
I have had many requests from owners of Android phones for an Android version 
of my apps for the Apple iPhone. I am happy to announce that the following 
micro manuals are all available for Android phones now:

1. K3/KX3 Programmer's Reference

2. K3 Micro Manual

3. P3 Micro Manual

4. KX3 Micro Manual

5. K2 Micro Manual

You can find these apps in Google Play. Just do a search for 'mike downs, 
ks7d'. Note that the minimum required Android version is Jelly Bean Version 4.1 
(API level 16). Unfortunately, there is a glitch in earlier versions of 
Google's Android operating system that prevent these apps from functioning, so 
I have had to design them all for Version 4.1 and above.

I hope you find these apps useful, and that they make operating your Elecraft 
rigs more efficient and enjoyable from wherever you are - at home or on the 
road. None of these apps requires an Internet connection, so they will operate 
from anywhere.

Happy Elecrafting.

73,

Mike, ks7d

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3/KX3/P3 Android Phone Apps

2013-09-28 Thread Bert Craig
Hi Mike, 

Tnx for the nifty apps. Just purchased the K2 Micro Manual. Always happy to 
help support a fellow ARO. Take care es... 

Vy 73 de Bert 
WA2SI 

Sent from my android device.

-Original Message-
From: Michael Downs k...@verizon.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Sat, 28 Sep 2013 6:59
Subject: [Elecraft] K2/K3/KX3/P3 Android Phone Apps

I have had many requests from owners of Android phones for an Android version 
of my apps for the Apple iPhone. I am happy to announce that the following 
micro manuals are all available for Android phones now:

1. K3/KX3 Programmer's Reference

2. K3 Micro Manual

3. P3 Micro Manual

4. KX3 Micro Manual

5. K2 Micro Manual

You can find these apps in Google Play. Just do a search for 'mike downs, 
ks7d'. Note that the minimum required Android version is Jelly Bean Version 4.1 
(API level 16). Unfortunately, there is a glitch in earlier versions of 
Google's Android operating system that prevent these apps from functioning, so 
I have had to design them all for Version 4.1 and above.

I hope you find these apps useful, and that they make operating your Elecraft 
rigs more efficient and enjoyable from wherever you are - at home or on the 
road. None of these apps requires an Internet connection, so they will operate 
from anywhere.

Happy Elecrafting.

73,

Mike, ks7d

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Re: [Elecraft] K2/K3/KX3/P3 Android Phone Apps

2013-09-28 Thread Randy Moore
These are excellent!  Glad to see them on Android devices!

Tnx es 73!
Randy, KS4L

 On Sep 28, 2013, at 5:59 AM, Michael Downs k...@verizon.net wrote:
 
 I have had many requests from owners of Android phones for an Android version 
 of my apps for the Apple iPhone. I am happy to announce that the following 
 micro manuals are all available for Android phones now:
 
 1. K3/KX3 Programmer's Reference
 
 2. K3 Micro Manual
 
 3. P3 Micro Manual
 
 4. KX3 Micro Manual
 
 5. K2 Micro Manual
 
 You can find these apps in Google Play. Just do a search for 'mike downs, 
 ks7d'. Note that the minimum required Android version is Jelly Bean Version 
 4.1 (API level 16). Unfortunately, there is a glitch in earlier versions of 
 Google's Android operating system that prevent these apps from functioning, 
 so I have had to design them all for Version 4.1 and above.
 
 I hope you find these apps useful, and that they make operating your Elecraft 
 rigs more efficient and enjoyable from wherever you are - at home or on the 
 road. None of these apps requires an Internet connection, so they will 
 operate from anywhere.
 
 Happy Elecrafting.
 
 73,
 
 Mike, ks7d
 
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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2 Propagation

2013-09-28 Thread John Oppenheimer
One way to quantitatively evaluate power versus probability of
communicating is to use the VOACAP Online tool:
http://www.voacap.com/prediction.html
The tool includes transmitter power at several steps, 1, 5, 10, 50, 100,
etc. Set the transmitter at your location and the receiver about 1300
miles away, optimal first hop for a 20 Degree radiation elevation angle.
Then keeping all parameters constant, run a few prediction at various
power levels and evaluate the area of the 90-100% probability on the
resulting prediction plots.

The resulting plot includes 10 lines, representing the 10% probability
steps.

John KN5L
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Re: [Elecraft] [KPA500] Suggested checklist for installing KPA and KAT with K3?

2013-09-28 Thread W5UXH
All,

Thanks for the comments.  No one has mentioned anything other than the USB
to Serial so maybe I have everything else covered (fat chance!).

I planned to use the single USB to Serial along with the switch because I
already had all the cables and adaptors and the switch on hand and rarely
have used the K3 utility.  I will look at the Gearmo and probably pick one
up since I currently will be using most of my serial cables even though I
would only be using one of the USB to Serial cables.  I definitely do not
want to use up all of my individual USB to Serial (I think I only have three
unused ones at the moment).

I am not a DXer or contester and doubt there will be features I will need to
change on the fly.  I suspect this will be a set up once and forget about
it configuration for me.  

Thanks again.

Chuck, W5UXH




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[Elecraft] K3 Noise when moving KX3 VFO

2013-09-28 Thread VaibhaV Sharma
Hello,
Here is a weird problem.

I have two dipoles in the backyard, one connected directly to a K3/10 and
the other to a KX3.

* No external tuners or any other equipment in the middle
* K3/10 is on 40 meters to 7.187.00
* KX3 tuned to the same frequency
* KX3 powered by internal batteries (same problem with external power)

At this point if I tune around with the KX3 (between 7.184 and 7.186.75)
and the K3 stays on the same frequency, you can hear a loud tone on the K3.

Here is the video -
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DgHUcYxjVc

In the video, the KX3 is on mute initially. All the audio (receive and
tone) is from the K3.

Is the KX3 generating some noise offset around the center frequency?

-- 
VaibhaV
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Noise when moving KX3 VFO

2013-09-28 Thread Walter Underwood
The KX3 has some leakage of the local oscillator when receiving. You can 
elimination this by turning on the isolation prepamp. Use the RX ISO menu item. 
See page 38 in the manual.

wunder
K6WRU

On Sep 28, 2013, at 7:56 AM, VaibhaV Sharma wrote:

 Hello,
 Here is a weird problem.
 
 I have two dipoles in the backyard, one connected directly to a K3/10 and
 the other to a KX3.
 
 * No external tuners or any other equipment in the middle
 * K3/10 is on 40 meters to 7.187.00
 * KX3 tuned to the same frequency
 * KX3 powered by internal batteries (same problem with external power)
 
 At this point if I tune around with the KX3 (between 7.184 and 7.186.75)
 and the K3 stays on the same frequency, you can hear a loud tone on the K3.
 
 Here is the video -
 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2DgHUcYxjVc
 
 In the video, the KX3 is on mute initially. All the audio (receive and
 tone) is from the K3.
 
 Is the KX3 generating some noise offset around the center frequency?
 
 -- 
 VaibhaV
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--
Walter Underwood
wun...@wunderwood.org



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[Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Edward R Cole

Vic,

Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a 
mast secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot 
space?  I wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area?


It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet 
across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends 
for full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for 
inverted-V.   Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs 
at right angles but horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 
120-foot horizontal loop if there are places for four support 
poles.  Being on roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to 
be very high.


An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna 
with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a 
base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  They load 
fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations).


73, Ed - KL7UW
--
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which
means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the
answers...

Here is what I meant to ask:
--

I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I
have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of
this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I
can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area
mentioned above.

But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or
substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above
the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!

I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able
to handle 1500w.

I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise
pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI
considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are overriding
advantages.

Suggestions


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
dubus...@gmail.com
Kits made by KL7UW 


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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

2013-09-28 Thread Bill W4ZV
Vic K2VCO-2 wrote
 This argument will never die.
 
 But remember the last time you called CQ and a station came back that you
 could hear, but 
 not copy. (I'm thinking CW, but it also applies to SSB).
 
 You know he is in there, but despite struggling with the narrowest
 possible bandwidth and 
 every trick your receiver is capable of, you just can't get his call as he
 floats in and 
 out of the noise.
 
 I maintain that even ONE dB matters in this situation.

IMHO 1 dB absolutely matters when signals are at or below the noise floor. 
I've lost several QSOs while activating SOTA summits for exactly the reason
Vic described above.  I find myself wanting my Beverages (at home) or the
K3's APF, neither of which is available on a summit while using my K2.

AB7E made a very useful set of recordings which demonstrates differences in
weak signal copy in background noise.  They also demonstrate why you should
not send at QRQ speeds when signals are weak (an exception to this is when
lightning crashes are prevalent).

http://www.ab7e.com/weak_signal/mdd.html

It's interesting to note significant differences in various SOTA activators
ability to copy my signal from a summit (i.e. Summit-to-Summit QSOs).  I
usually hear other SOTAs well but some are deaf as stones.  I believe this
is due to inexperience by some in copying weak signals.

73,  Bill  W4ZV






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[Elecraft] P3 Freezing while in RX

2013-09-28 Thread wi4t
My P3 is freezing while in RX mode, no transmit.  I have a K3 -P3-KAT500 and
KPA500 

My firmware for P3 is MCU 01.26

 

I have beads on all cables going to the P3 and I am using a separate power
supply

 

Any thoughts?

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Re: [Elecraft] SoundCards

2013-09-28 Thread Jim Brown

On 9/27/2013 11:22 PM, Chuck Smallhouse wrote:
Can you give us the model numbers of the Numark and the Tascam USB 
Sound cards that you recommend ? 


The Numark doesn't have a number, or at least I've never found one, and 
I don't remember the number of the Tascam (the one I have has long been 
discontinued).  BH Photo in NYC is a great vendor for this stuff, and 
has good prices. Search their website for Numark USB and Tascam USB, 
sort by price. They will be the cheapest of those brands.  Both units 
and RCA stereo Line inputs and outputs, and RIAA phono inputs. The 
Tascam has more inputs, including for a mic and guitar, and is even a 
small mixer.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] K2 Blinking Annunciators

2013-09-28 Thread Bill W4ZV
I don't recall where I found this but hopefully it will be of help to K2
owners:

K2 Blinking Annunciators

Decimal right of 1 kHz digit =  LOCK On
MHz Decimal=  SCAN On
Decimal left of Mode Ind=  AGC Off
NB Ind=  LO NB THRESHOLD
On
A or B Ind   =  SPLIT On
CW Mode Ind   =  CW TEST On
CW Mode Ind CFCF  =  FAST PLAY On (CW
memories)
USB/LSB Mode Ind=  VOX On

73,  Bill  W4ZV



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread KD8NNU
Look up a cobweb antenna, it's a folded dipole design that works quite well.  I 
built one and I really like the performance.

Thanks
Don
Sent from my iPad

On Sep 28, 2013, at 5:01 PM, Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net wrote:

 Vic,
 
 Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a mast 
 secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot space?  I wonder 
 if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area?
 
 It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet across 
 the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends for full length 
 half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for inverted-V.   Another 
 idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs at right angles but 
 horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 120-foot horizontal loop if 
 there are places for four support poles.  Being on roof of ten stories means 
 the wire does not need to be very high.
 
 An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna with 
 single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a base-loaded 5/8 
 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  They load fine on 2m as well 
 (trick of VHF mobile stations).
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 --
 Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
 From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
 To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
 Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
 I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which
 means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the
 answers...
 
 Here is what I meant to ask:
 --
 
 I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I
 have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of
 this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I
 can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area
 mentioned above.
 
 But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or
 substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above
 the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!
 
 I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able
 to handle 1500w.
 
 I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise
 pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI
 considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are overriding
 advantages.
 
 Suggestions
 
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
 dubus...@gmail.com
 Kits made by KL7UW 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Vic, K2VCO

Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font):

   
   ||   | |
   ||   | |
   ||   | |
   |- |
   |  |
   |  |
   

The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the 
roof of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my bedroom 
(and, I think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area at my 
disposal. It is about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of the 
building. The rest of my apartment is below the roof.


I would love to put a little roof tower on the building with a beam on 
it! But as far as I know, that is not allowed.


I am thinking about verticals, about 3 fiberglass masts holding up a 
shortened 40m dipole, etc.


For 6 and 2 m I have 3 element beams which are small enough that they 
will be allowed.


On 9/28/13 8:01 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:

Vic,

Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a mast
secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot space?  I
wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area?

It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet
across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends for
full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for
inverted-V.   Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs at
right angles but horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 120-foot
horizontal loop if there are places for four support poles.  Being on
roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to be very high.

An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna
with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a
base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  They load
fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations).

73, Ed - KL7UW
--
Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which
means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the
answers...

Here is what I meant to ask:
--

I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I
have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of
this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I
can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area
mentioned above.

But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or
substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above
the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!

I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able
to handle 1500w.

I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise
pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI
considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are overriding
advantages.

Suggestions


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
dubus...@gmail.com
Kits made by KL7UW
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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Dale Putnam

Hi Vic,  You have a perfect place, I love it. No.. not a lotta real estate.. 
but it is wonderful How about... a a high as you can vertical on the top of 
your shack to be.. with 30 - 40 radials laid out and held in place with sand 
bags, bricks, or the like.. maybe just tied to the edge... make them long 
enough to reach the edge of the roof. If you can getthe vertical to be 43 or so 
ft high.. that's even better. Base feed with an auto tuner. Second... a wire 
beam.. laid out at a convenient height on the big roof.. built to face East. or 
a J-K beam to face e-w. Look at the Great Circle map to face to where you want 
to talk tothe most. Yes.. it would take a bit of planning ahead... but you 
could even rotate it.. say for the all asian contest... or for the TX QP.. move 
it a day ahead of the event.For the domestic contests... face towards the 
middle of the country. No problem.  The vertical will do dx very nicely from 
there... and the wire beam would do domestic nice too.Good L
 uck, Oh.. and for vhf.. a J-pole does great from that high.
Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 


 Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2013 11:37:32 -0700
 From: k2vco@gmail.com
 To: kl...@acsalaska.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
 
 Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font):
 
 
 ||   | |
 ||   | |
 ||   | |
 |- |
 |  |
 |  |
 
 
 The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the 
 roof of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my bedroom 
 (and, I think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area at my 
 disposal. It is about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of the 
 building. The rest of my apartment is below the roof.
 
 I would love to put a little roof tower on the building with a beam on 
 it! But as far as I know, that is not allowed.
 
 I am thinking about verticals, about 3 fiberglass masts holding up a 
 shortened 40m dipole, etc.
 
 For 6 and 2 m I have 3 element beams which are small enough that they 
 will be allowed.
 
 On 9/28/13 8:01 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
  Vic,
 
  Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a mast
  secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot space?  I
  wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area?
 
  It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet
  across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends for
  full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for
  inverted-V.   Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs at
  right angles but horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 120-foot
  horizontal loop if there are places for four support poles.  Being on
  roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to be very high.
 
  An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna
  with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a
  base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  They load
  fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations).
 
  73, Ed - KL7UW
  --
  Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
  From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
  To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
  Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
  I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which
  means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the
  answers...
 
  Here is what I meant to ask:
  --
 
  I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I
  have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of
  this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I
  can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area
  mentioned above.
 
  But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or
  substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above
  the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!
 
  I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able
  to handle 1500w.
 
  I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise
  pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI
  considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are overriding
  advantages.
 
  Suggestions
 
 
  73, Ed - KL7UW
  http://www.kl7uw.com
  dubus...@gmail.com
  Kits made by KL7UW
  __
  Elecraft mailing 

Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Gil G.
Don't discard the magnetic loop as a possibility:

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,180.0.html

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread mikefurrey
Go for the beam ... a pair of butternut verticals and phase 'em!  ... maybe 
three in a triangle for more directions.


73, Mike WA5POK

--
From: Dale Putnam daleput...@hotmail.com
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 2:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; k2vco@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent



Hi Vic,  You have a perfect place, I love it. No.. not a lotta real 
estate.. but it is wonderful How about... a a high as you can vertical 
on the top of your shack to be.. with 30 - 40 radials laid out and held 
in place with sand bags, bricks, or the like.. maybe just tied to the 
edge... make them long enough to reach the edge of the roof. If you can 
getthe vertical to be 43 or so ft high.. that's even better. Base feed 
with an auto tuner. Second... a wire beam.. laid out at a convenient 
height on the big roof.. built to face East. or a J-K beam to face e-w. 
Look at the Great Circle map to face to where you want to talk tothe most. 
Yes.. it would take a bit of planning ahead... but you could even rotate 
it.. say for the all asian contest... or for the TX QP.. move it a day 
ahead of the event.For the domestic contests... face towards the middle of 
the country. No problem.  The vertical will do dx very nicely from 
there... and the wire beam would do domestic nice too.Good L

uck, Oh.. and for vhf.. a J-pole does great from that high.
Have a great day,


--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy





Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2013 11:37:32 -0700
From: k2vco@gmail.com
To: kl...@acsalaska.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font):


||   | |
||   | |
||   | |
|- |
|  |
|  |


The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the
roof of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my bedroom
(and, I think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area at my
disposal. It is about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of the
building. The rest of my apartment is below the roof.

I would love to put a little roof tower on the building with a beam on
it! But as far as I know, that is not allowed.

I am thinking about verticals, about 3 fiberglass masts holding up a
shortened 40m dipole, etc.

For 6 and 2 m I have 3 element beams which are small enough that they
will be allowed.

On 9/28/13 8:01 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
 Vic,

 Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a 
 mast

 secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot space?  I
 wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area?

 It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet
 across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends for
 full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for
 inverted-V.   Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs 
 at

 right angles but horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 120-foot
 horizontal loop if there are places for four support poles.  Being on
 roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to be very high.

 An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna
 with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a
 base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  They load
 fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations).

 73, Ed - KL7UW
 --
 Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
 From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
 To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
 Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. Which
 means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some of the
 answers...

 Here is what I meant to ask:
 --

 I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I
 have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge 
 of

 this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I
 can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area
 mentioned above.

 But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or
 substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height 
 above

 the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!

 I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be able
 to handle 1500w.

 I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise
 pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna 

Re: [Elecraft] P3 Freezing while in RX

2013-09-28 Thread WI4T
Good news, reloading the firmware seemed to do the trick.  Thanks for the
suggestion.

Greg
WI4T



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-Freezing-while-in-RX-tp7579330p7579338.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Vic, K2VCO
The problem with the magloop is that it's hard to build one that can 
handle more than about 100 watts. The voltage across the capacitor gets 
astronomical!


On 9/28/13 11:53 AM, Gil G. wrote:

Don't discard the magnetic loop as a possibility:

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,180.0.html

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT

I'm no expert on loops, but isn't the voltage lower on a BIG loop?

On 9/28/2013 12:22 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:
The problem with the magloop is that it's hard to build one that can 
handle more than about 100 watts. The voltage across the capacitor 
gets astronomical!


On 9/28/13 11:53 AM, Gil G. wrote:

Don't discard the magnetic loop as a possibility:

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,180.0.html

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Vic,

If that were my situation, I would put up 2 inverted vees - at right 
angles to each other.  Each fed with ladderline.


A pole as high as you can manage right in the middle, and a pole in the 
each corner of the larger building.
Arranged that way, you have room for 2 44 foot doublets (even if you 
have to fold the ends down a bit).
The advantage of the 44 foot length is that it can be used for 40 
through 10 meters with the only lobes broadside to the radiator.


To operate on 80 meters, lay 4 or more wires (more is better) on the 
roof and use them as a counterpoise and tie the feeders together to 
produce a top loaded vertical - it may even work on 160.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2013 2:37 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:

Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font):

   
   ||   | |
   ||   | |
   ||   | |
   |- |
   |  |
   |  |
   

The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the 
roof of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my 
bedroom (and, I think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area 
at my disposal. It is about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of 
the building. The rest of my apartment is below the roof.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

2013-09-28 Thread kevinr

Good Afternoon,
I need to get this out before I lose my Internet access. Tonight I 
am to receive approximately 10 inches of rain with winds up to 80 mph.  
Currently my connection is terrible; I only expect it to get worse.  I 
should lose power tonight when the broken trees fall through the power 
lines.  The battery bank is fully charged so I will be able to run the 
nets tomorrow if the antennas and house are still here.


   Please join us this afternoon and evening.

1) Hail signs  (first letter or two of the suffix of your call)
2) NCS help  (as well as QSP/QNP relay help)

Sunday 2200z (Sunday 3 PM PDT) 14050 kHz
Monday 0100z (Sunday 6 PM PDT)  7045 kHz

   Stay well,
  Kevin.  KD5ONS

-
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[Elecraft] k2 vco alignment

2013-09-28 Thread Rob Gault
K2 #7449 VCO alignment difficulty.

Cannot get 4.0 MHz R30 voltage to change at all - it measures 7.97V.  Have
confirmed all the cap values, varicap diodes are correct parts, T5 wound
and wired correctly.

Have scoped the area comparing to a second operational K2  the wave forms
look and behave the same as the rigs are tuned. The voltage on R30 is
simply too high at 4.0 MHz.

I set the K2 to 3.5MHz and adjusted L30 for the lowest voltage, this gave
the following results:

 3.50   4.144.007.97
 7.00   4.397.306.30
10.00   5.08   10.155.86
14.00   3.84   15.005.98
18.00   4.42   18.204.67
21.00   3.83   21.455.38
24.80   5.92   25.006.40
28.00   4.64   28.805.66(29.70   6.87)

Should I continue the build or what else should I check?

THANKS  73,  Rob  KC2VMP
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Vic, K2VCO
A so-called magnetic loop is defined as one smaller than about 1/3 wl 
in circumference. Bigger than that is a loop, but has a different 
pattern -- and you are correct that the voltage across tuning components 
is lower.


On 9/28/13 12:38 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

I'm no expert on loops, but isn't the voltage lower on a BIG loop?

On 9/28/2013 12:22 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:

The problem with the magloop is that it's hard to build one that can
handle more than about 100 watts. The voltage across the capacitor
gets astronomical!

On 9/28/13 11:53 AM, Gil G. wrote:

Don't discard the magnetic loop as a possibility:

http://radiopreppers.com/index.php/topic,180.0.html

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Gil G.
Certainly, but I've reached Russia with mine (21ft. perimeter) using 5W with 
the loop inside the house on the second floor, turned the wrong way.. So, they 
do work really well.. If you're into contesting, I understand, otherwise, you 
don't need more than a few Watts CW, maybe 25 for SSB. You can find vacuum 
capacitors on Ebay for $150.. I use a $60 air capacitor rated for 4.5KV, used 
it with my 12W KX3, no arcing..

Gil.
--
PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc

On Sep 28, 2013, at 3:22 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:

 The problem with the magloop is that it's hard to build one that can handle 
 more than about 100 watts. The voltage across the capacitor gets astronomical!
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[Elecraft] National Hamfest, Newark Showground

2013-09-28 Thread David G4DMP
I had the privilege of attending Eric's excellent presentation on the
KX3, etc, at the National Hamfest today. It was very well attended, the
entire lecture room being filled and people standing at the back. It was
good to hear first hand about the development of the KX3 from its early
beginnings to final production and beyond.

I note that several people were 'filming' the proceedings on their cell
phones. Doubtless some of these will appear on Youtube in due course.

Good work Eric.

73 de David G4DMP

-- 
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +
 | David M Pratt, Kippax, Leeds.   |
 | Website: http://www.g4dmp.co.uk |
 + - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - +

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 vco alignment

2013-09-28 Thread Don Wilhelm

Rob,

There is either too much inductance or too much capacity in the VFO 
circuit - the high voltage means that the K2 is trying to reduce the 
capacity to bring things into line.


Count the turns on T5 very carefully.  Each wire through the center 
counts as one turn - a full wrap around the core equals 2 turns.


If the T5 turns are correct, spread the red turns of T5 out as much as 
possible to see if that resolves the problem.


Worst case, you may have to remove a turn from T5.

BTW, if you discover an extra turn on T5, you might want to count the 
turns on the other toroids you have wound to be certain they contain the 
right number of turns.  Winding an extra turn on toroids is not uncommon 
for builders with limited experience in winding toroids.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/28/2013 4:16 PM, Rob Gault wrote:

K2 #7449 VCO alignment difficulty.

Cannot get 4.0 MHz R30 voltage to change at all - it measures 7.97V.  Have
confirmed all the cap values, varicap diodes are correct parts, T5 wound
and wired correctly.

Have scoped the area comparing to a second operational K2  the wave forms
look and behave the same as the rigs are tuned. The voltage on R30 is
simply too high at 4.0 MHz.

I set the K2 to 3.5MHz and adjusted L30 for the lowest voltage, this gave
the following results:

  3.50   4.144.007.97
  7.00   4.397.306.30
10.00   5.08   10.155.86
14.00   3.84   15.005.98
18.00   4.42   18.204.67
21.00   3.83   21.455.38
24.80   5.92   25.006.40
28.00   4.64   28.805.66(29.70   6.87)

Should I continue the build or what else should I check?

THANKS  73,  Rob  KC2VMP
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 vco alignment

2013-09-28 Thread Rob Gault
Don,

Thank you, with this it only took me 3 minutes to fix it with this info.
 The coverage on T5 was the critical factor here.

The good news is that I've spent the last 4 hours confirming that
EVERYTHING else around the VCO is correct!

73, Thanks again!
kc2vmp


On Sat, Sep 28, 2013 at 5:11 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Rob,

 There is either too much inductance or too much capacity in the VFO
 circuit - the high voltage means that the K2 is trying to reduce the
 capacity to bring things into line.

 Count the turns on T5 very carefully.  Each wire through the center counts
 as one turn - a full wrap around the core equals 2 turns.

 If the T5 turns are correct, spread the red turns of T5 out as much as
 possible to see if that resolves the problem.

 Worst case, you may have to remove a turn from T5.

 BTW, if you discover an extra turn on T5, you might want to count the
 turns on the other toroids you have wound to be certain they contain the
 right number of turns.  Winding an extra turn on toroids is not uncommon
 for builders with limited experience in winding toroids.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 9/28/2013 4:16 PM, Rob Gault wrote:

 K2 #7449 VCO alignment difficulty.

 Cannot get 4.0 MHz R30 voltage to change at all - it measures 7.97V.  Have
 confirmed all the cap values, varicap diodes are correct parts, T5 wound
 and wired correctly.

 Have scoped the area comparing to a second operational K2  the wave forms
 look and behave the same as the rigs are tuned. The voltage on R30 is
 simply too high at 4.0 MHz.

 I set the K2 to 3.5MHz and adjusted L30 for the lowest voltage, this gave
 the following results:

   3.50   4.144.007.97
   7.00   4.397.306.30
 10.00   5.08   10.155.86
 14.00   3.84   15.005.98
 18.00 4.42 18.204.67
 21.00   3.83   21.455.38
 24.80   5.92   25.006.40
 28.00   4.64   28.805.66(29.70   6.87)

 Should I continue the build or what else should I check?

 THANKS  73,  Rob  KC2VMP
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies

2013-09-28 Thread Gary, W7TEA
Good news!  Brought the rig home and connected to a different RS-35A and
cable and all is well!! So, it's either the power supply or cable--easy and
much less expensive fixes.  

Thank you all for your suggestions!

Gary W7TEA



-
73,

Gary W7TEA  K3 #1001, #5763
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579349.html
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[Elecraft] Voltage of K2 2.9AH Gel Cell?

2013-09-28 Thread Jim Harris
*Hi, All.*

*What is the voltage of the 2.9 AH Gell Cell Battery for the K2 when
fully Charged?*

*Thanks and Best 73.*
*Jim.*
*WA4NTM* 
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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
Dale's suggestion would also minimize the RF field directly under the
antenna and noise pickup from within the building. I'd probably go with a
trap vertical or a pair of verticals for 40 through 10 meter coverage since
a 1/4 wavelength on 40 is a full wavelength on 10 -- way too long for best
low-angle radiation. 

73, Ron AC7AC 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dale Putnam
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 11:49 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; k2vco@gmail.com
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent


Hi Vic,  You have a perfect place, I love it. No.. not a lotta real estate..
but it is wonderful How about... a a high as you can vertical on the top
of your shack to be.. with 30 - 40 radials laid out and held in place with
sand bags, bricks, or the like.. maybe just tied to the edge... make them
long enough to reach the edge of the roof. If you can getthe vertical to be
43 or so ft high.. that's even better. Base feed with an auto tuner.
Second... a wire beam.. laid out at a convenient height on the big roof..
built to face East. or a J-K beam to face e-w. Look at the Great Circle map
to face to where you want to talk tothe most. Yes.. it would take a bit of
planning ahead... but you could even rotate it.. say for the all asian
contest... or for the TX QP.. move it a day ahead of the event.For the
domestic contests... face towards the middle of the country. No problem.
The vertical will do dx very nicely from there... and the wire beam would do
domestic nice too.Good L  uck, Oh.. and for vhf.. a J-pole does great from
that high.
Have a great day, 
 
 
--...   ...--
Dale - WC7S in Wy
 
 


 Date: Sat, 28 Sep 2013 11:37:32 -0700
 From: k2vco@gmail.com
 To: kl...@acsalaska.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
 
 Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font):
 
 
 ||   | |
 ||   | |
 ||   | |
 |- |
 |  |
 |  |
 
 
 The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the 
 roof of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my 
 bedroom (and, I think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area 
 at my disposal. It is about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of 
 the building. The rest of my apartment is below the roof.
 
 I would love to put a little roof tower on the building with a beam on 
 it! But as far as I know, that is not allowed.
 
 I am thinking about verticals, about 3 fiberglass masts holding up a 
 shortened 40m dipole, etc.
 
 For 6 and 2 m I have 3 element beams which are small enough that they 
 will be allowed.
 
 On 9/28/13 8:01 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
  Vic,
 
  Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a 
  mast secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot 
  space?  I wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20
area?
 
  It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet 
  across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends 
  for full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for
  inverted-V.   Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs at
  right angles but horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 
  120-foot horizontal loop if there are places for four support poles.  
  Being on roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to be very
high.
 
  An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband 
  antenna with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution 
  is a base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  
  They load fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations).
 
  73, Ed - KL7UW
  --
  Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
  From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
  To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
  Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
  Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
 
  I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. 
  Which means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some 
  of the answers...
 
  Here is what I meant to ask:
  
  --
 
  I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. 
  I have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one 
  edge of this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 
  10' x 20'. I can put up antennas on top of this little building and 
  on the flat area mentioned above.
 
  But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, 
  or 

Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Bill W4ZV
Vic K2VCO-2 wrote
 I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I 
 have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge of 
 this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 20'. I 
 can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the flat area 
 mentioned above.
 
 But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or 
 substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height above 
 the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!

I'd stay away from a vertical.  You'll have problems with manmade
interference in an apartment complex and vertical polarization will make it
worse.  I'd go for a 44' doublet/inv-V supported by a nonconductive mast and
fed with twinlead...or an OCF fed with coax.

73,  Bill  W4ZV

73,  Bill  W4ZV




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Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies

2013-09-28 Thread Richard Fjeld
We all tend to think the worst at times like this. In the absence of test 
equipment, I'd examine the fuse(s) to see if it shows the obvious.  I would 
sooner think that the crowbar circuit has operated.  I have found that several 
times over the years without a fuse operating. It would look like no voltage to 
the radio. 

Dick, n0ce


- Original Message -
From: W7TEA Gary gt...@mac.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 5:48:46 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies

Good news!  Brought the rig home and connected to a different RS-35A and
cable and all is well!! So, it's either the power supply or cable--easy and
much less expensive fixes.  

Thank you all for your suggestions!

Gary W7TEA



-
73,

Gary W7TEA  K3 #1001, #5763
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-suddenly-dies-tp7579305p7579349.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
_
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies

2013-09-28 Thread Rick Robinson
Take a small piece of scotchbrite pad and clean the fuses and holders
if possible and use some deoxit  to the fuse connector and fuses. They can
build up a high resistance oxidation causing severe voltage drop. Then try
the cable on the good supply. If that works then try the reworked cable
with the old supply. Hopefully that is all. I have had this issue with
another brand of rig and got it back up to snuff. Good luck.



 - Original Message -
 From: W7TEA Gary gt...@mac.com javascript:;
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net javascript:;
 Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 5:48:46 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 suddenly dies

 Good news!  Brought the rig home and connected to a different RS-35A and
 cable and all is well!! So, it's either the power supply or cable--easy and
 much less expensive fixes.

 Thank you all for your suggestions!

 Gary W7TEA



 -
 73,

 Gary W7TEA  K3 #1001, #5763


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Richard Fjeld
FWIW, I worked a guy in Hawaii who had an arrangement I liked.  He fed a 
vertical on the beach as the driven element. Then he used another vertical as 
either a reflector, or a director. He had sockets in a pre-measured radius 
around the driven element.  When he wanted to aim his signal a certain 
direction, he would run out and change to the appropriate socket. 

Dick,n0ce


- Original Message -
From: mikefur...@att.net
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 1:57:54 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

Go for the beam ... a pair of butternut verticals and phase 'em!  ... maybe 
three in a triangle for more directions.

73, Mike WA5POK

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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

2013-09-28 Thread Jim Miller
IMHO  - If wire, I would make a fan dipole.  Multiple dipoles (one length
for each band) connected together at the feed point and run together (a few
inches apart) for their full length.  For the 40 meter portion if it is too
long just let the ends hang down as long as you are using fiberglass poles
(tie them so they don't fly in the wind) or bend them horizontally (do not
bend tighter than 90 degrees) instead of using coils as your efficiency will
be better and your power will not be restricted.  73, de Jim KG0KP

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Vic, K2VCO
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 1:38 PM
To: Edward R Cole; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent

Here is a diagram of my space (use fixed width font):


||   | |
||   | |
||   | |
|- |
|  |
|  |


The small rectangle on top is a small building (10'x20') on top of the roof
of the 10-story apartment building. Actually, it will be my bedroom (and, I
think, shack). The larger rectangle is the roof area at my disposal. It is
about 10' x 30' plus the areas at the side of the building. The rest of my
apartment is below the roof.

I would love to put a little roof tower on the building with a beam on it!
But as far as I know, that is not allowed.

I am thinking about verticals, about 3 fiberglass masts holding up a
shortened 40m dipole, etc.

For 6 and 2 m I have 3 element beams which are small enough that they will
be allowed.

On 9/28/13 8:01 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
 Vic,

 Too bad you cannot consider a yagi for 20-10m.  That would sit on a 
 mast secured to the small roof-top building.  So a  30x 10 foot space?  
 I wonder if the 20x10 foot building extends beyond the 30x20 area?

 It it extends so total length is 50-feet  You could put up a doublet 
 across the length, either horizontal with 8 foot droop on both ends 
 for full length half-wave on 40m or perhaps a pole in the center for
 inverted-V.   Another idea is 50-foot with 8-footlegs at
 right angles but horizontal at the same height.  Or consider a 
 120-foot horizontal loop if there are places for four support poles.  
 Being on roof of ten stories means the wire does not need to be very high.

 An automatic tuner at the roof would finish off any multiband antenna 
 with single coax run to shack. To add 6m/2m simple solution is a 
 base-loaded 5/8 6m wave vertical (could be a mobile whip).  They load 
 fine on 2m as well (trick of VHF mobile stations).

 73, Ed - KL7UW
 --
 Date: Fri, 27 Sep 2013 21:47:41 -0700
 From: Vic, K2VCO k2vco@gmail.com
 To: elecraft Reflector elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna suggestions, resent
 Message-ID: 52465f6d.9060...@gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 I just realized that my previous message was sent in html format. 
 Which means that the reflector stripped the text! That explains some 
 of the answers...

 Here is what I meant to ask:
 --

 I am moving to an apartment on the top floor of a 10 story building. I 
 have access to the roof which has a 30' x 10' flat space. On one edge 
 of this space is a building 9' high with a flat roof of about 10' x 
 20'. I can put up antennas on top of this little building and on the 
 flat area mentioned above.

 But there is a catch: the antenna has to be either a wire antenna, or 
 substantially vertical. If vertical, it can't exceed 29' in height 
 above the roof of the small building. Beams not allowed!

 I want to operate on 40 through 15 meters. The antenna needs to be 
 able to handle 1500w.

 I prefer horizontal antennas because of the extra gain and lower noise 
 pickup. I prefer a balanced antenna because of noise and RFI 
 considerations. But I'll consider other options if there are 
 overriding advantages.

 Suggestions


 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
 dubus...@gmail.com
 Kits made by KL7UW
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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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[Elecraft] Antenna help thank you!

2013-09-28 Thread Vic, K2VCO
I want to thank everyone who responded on and off list to my request for 
suggestions about what to put on a rooftop 10 stories up!


I have been EZNEC-ing my butt off all day, and so far the winner is the 
suggestion of KL7UW and W4TV, a 20'x30' horizontal rectangular loop 
about 20' above the roof, fed with 600-ohm open wire line in the center 
of one of the longer sides.


This antenna will have excellent horizontal and vertical patterns on all 
bands 80 through 10 meters, and should be easily tunable on 40-10 (for 
80 I may need to do something special to match it).


The old standby, a tuned 44' doublet works fine for 40 and 20, but the 
pattern breaks up and produces much too much cloud-warming on higher 
bands. Remember, the antenna will be at 120' above ground. The 
horizontal pattern is also not ideal on all bands.


I got a lot of votes for a vertical, which is the easiest solution. But 
the horizontal antennas will be quieter in the urban environment. They 
have some gain in the desired direction. Also I have had better luck 
from the standpoint of RFI with balanced horizontal antennas.


Now there is just the mechanical question of how to keep the poles that 
hold up the loop at the corners of the roof from bowing inward too much. 
There's nothing to guy them to.


I also appreciate the forbearance of Eric S., who tolerated this OT 
discussion for so long. FWIW, RF going into the antenna will come from 
my K2 and K3.


--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

2013-09-28 Thread drewko
I was curious to determine what a 3 db increase in power output might
mean in terms of total number of possible contacts. So I set up my K3
to run WSPR on 20 meters for a while today:

At regular intervals over the course of 9 hours the power output was
toggled back and forth between 5 and 10 watts, logging some 2,000
signal reports for the entire period. 

So, how much is a 3 db increase in power output worth? According to my
WSPR log data, about 40% more contacts. (At that rate a 6 db increase
would give nearly twice as many contacts. And a K3/100 should have
about three times as many QSOs in it than a K3/10...)

Anyhow, the original intention to mod the K2 might be justified. It's
not an insignificant improvement, though it might be good to log a few
thousand more reports to make sure.

73,
Drew
AF2Z






On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 08:24:39 -0700, you wrote:

My first thought on the audio was to get some efficient earbuds. Lightweight 
and cheap.

Over on the KX3 list, people like the Chill Pill powered speakers.

I know it is a second box, but the Hardrock 50 amp has been getting good 
reviews. You would not need to get it out except in an emergency, so it could 
stay deep in the pack. See: 
http://www.hobbypcb.com/amateur-radio/amateur-radio/hardrock-50-hf-power-amp-kit.html

I think there is a lot of evidence that 3dB does not matter. 10dB matters. 6dB 
might matter.

wunder
Walter Underwood
K6WRU
CM87wj


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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

2013-09-28 Thread Vic, K2VCO
One BIG problem which I should have mentioned before is that while you 
might get away with it on CW, doing this would increase IMD for SSB or 
digital modes a great deal.


On 9/28/13 7:19 PM, drewko wrote:

I was curious to determine what a 3 db increase in power output might
mean in terms of total number of possible contacts. So I set up my K3
to run WSPR on 20 meters for a while today:

At regular intervals over the course of 9 hours the power output was
toggled back and forth between 5 and 10 watts, logging some 2,000
signal reports for the entire period.

So, how much is a 3 db increase in power output worth? According to my
WSPR log data, about 40% more contacts. (At that rate a 6 db increase
would give nearly twice as many contacts. And a K3/100 should have
about three times as many QSOs in it than a K3/10...)

Anyhow, the original intention to mod the K2 might be justified. It's
not an insignificant improvement, though it might be good to log a few
thousand more reports to make sure.

73,
Drew
AF2Z






On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 08:24:39 -0700, you wrote:


My first thought on the audio was to get some efficient earbuds. Lightweight 
and cheap.

Over on the KX3 list, people like the Chill Pill powered speakers.

I know it is a second box, but the Hardrock 50 amp has been getting good 
reviews. You would not need to get it out except in an emergency, so it could 
stay deep in the pack. See: 
http://www.hobbypcb.com/amateur-radio/amateur-radio/hardrock-50-hf-power-amp-kit.html

I think there is a lot of evidence that 3dB does not matter. 10dB matters. 6dB 
might matter.

wunder
Walter Underwood
K6WRU
CM87wj



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--
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

2013-09-28 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
That depends upon what one means by QSO. I stepped out of the discussion
when it was abundantly clear that a QSO for some means teasing a call sign
out of the noise on CW. 

That's fine for DX-chasing and even much contesting. 

For me, a rag-chewer, a QSO occurs when I can exchange a CW message
containing 50 or 100 words without lots of repeats. 

With that criteria, common variations in the band over that time will swamp
out very small changes in signal strength. Personally, I don't get excited
about a change unless it can make a 6 to 10 dB difference. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of drewko
Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 7:19 PM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

I was curious to determine what a 3 db increase in power output might mean
in terms of total number of possible contacts. So I set up my K3 to run WSPR
on 20 meters for a while today:

At regular intervals over the course of 9 hours the power output was toggled
back and forth between 5 and 10 watts, logging some 2,000 signal reports for
the entire period. 

So, how much is a 3 db increase in power output worth? According to my WSPR
log data, about 40% more contacts. (At that rate a 6 db increase would give
nearly twice as many contacts. And a K3/100 should have about three times as
many QSOs in it than a K3/10...)

Anyhow, the original intention to mod the K2 might be justified. It's not an
insignificant improvement, though it might be good to log a few thousand
more reports to make sure.

73,
Drew
AF2Z






On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 08:24:39 -0700, you wrote:

My first thought on the audio was to get some efficient earbuds.
Lightweight and cheap.

Over on the KX3 list, people like the Chill Pill powered speakers.

I know it is a second box, but the Hardrock 50 amp has been getting 
good reviews. You would not need to get it out except in an emergency, 
so it could stay deep in the pack. See: 
http://www.hobbypcb.com/amateur-radio/amateur-radio/hardrock-50-hf-powe
r-amp-kit.html

I think there is a lot of evidence that 3dB does not matter. 10dB matters.
6dB might matter.

wunder
Walter Underwood
K6WRU
CM87wj


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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna help thank you!

2013-09-28 Thread David Christ
One trick the power company uses is to put a short stub out the side of the 
pole and then run a line from the top over the stub back to the base.  Makes a 
truss of sorts.

|\
|  \ 
|   \
|\
|
| /
|   /
| /

David K0LUM

On Sep 28, 2013, at 9:13 PM, Vic, K2VCO wrote:

 Now there is just the mechanical question of how to keep the poles that hold 
 up the loop at the corners of the roof from bowing inward too much. There's 
 nothing to guy them to.

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Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2

2013-09-28 Thread Walter Underwood
The original request was for emergency communication. That means a reliable 
exchange of unknown information without spots or known frequencies. This is not 
the same as most DX, SOTA, or WSPR and very different from exchanging 59 and 
callsigns.

Though, if you really want reliable emergency comms in the backcountry, I'd 
carry a sat phone. What if you get hurt? Can someone else use the radio 
effectively? I have a bigger writeup here:

http://wunderwood.org/most_casual_observer/2011/10/emergency_communication_in_the.html

wunder
K6WRU

On Sep 28, 2013, at 8:04 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

 That depends upon what one means by QSO. I stepped out of the discussion
 when it was abundantly clear that a QSO for some means teasing a call sign
 out of the noise on CW. 
 
 That's fine for DX-chasing and even much contesting. 
 
 For me, a rag-chewer, a QSO occurs when I can exchange a CW message
 containing 50 or 100 words without lots of repeats. 
 
 With that criteria, common variations in the band over that time will swamp
 out very small changes in signal strength. Personally, I don't get excited
 about a change unless it can make a 6 to 10 dB difference. 
 
 73, Ron AC7AC
 
 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of drewko
 Sent: Saturday, September 28, 2013 7:19 PM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] mods to K2
 
 I was curious to determine what a 3 db increase in power output might mean
 in terms of total number of possible contacts. So I set up my K3 to run WSPR
 on 20 meters for a while today:
 
 At regular intervals over the course of 9 hours the power output was toggled
 back and forth between 5 and 10 watts, logging some 2,000 signal reports for
 the entire period. 
 
 So, how much is a 3 db increase in power output worth? According to my WSPR
 log data, about 40% more contacts. (At that rate a 6 db increase would give
 nearly twice as many contacts. And a K3/100 should have about three times as
 many QSOs in it than a K3/10...)
 
 Anyhow, the original intention to mod the K2 might be justified. It's not an
 insignificant improvement, though it might be good to log a few thousand
 more reports to make sure.
 
 73,
 Drew
 AF2Z
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Fri, 27 Sep 2013 08:24:39 -0700, you wrote:
 
 My first thought on the audio was to get some efficient earbuds.
 Lightweight and cheap.
 
 Over on the KX3 list, people like the Chill Pill powered speakers.
 
 I know it is a second box, but the Hardrock 50 amp has been getting 
 good reviews. You would not need to get it out except in an emergency, 
 so it could stay deep in the pack. See: 
 http://www.hobbypcb.com/amateur-radio/amateur-radio/hardrock-50-hf-powe
 r-amp-kit.html
 
 I think there is a lot of evidence that 3dB does not matter. 10dB matters.
 6dB might matter.
 
 wunder
 Walter Underwood
 K6WRU
 CM87wj
 
 
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