Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread David Cutter
As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, 
ie good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.


David
G3UNA



- Original Message - 
From: Jeff Cochrane jeffvk...@gmail.com

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power



On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:

I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
(hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.



--
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
East Innisfail
QLD, Australia
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 + P3 Combo Pelican / Hard Case

2013-11-30 Thread David Cutter
I put my K3 into a large food box I bought for a few £ from Morrisons 
supermarket.  It has a tight-fitting lid and the K3 is held snugly in place 
and everything is protected.  I carry this my shoulder bag.  The box is 
polypropylene I think and is soft enough to absorb knocks on the corners.  I 
haven't done a drop test, but I think it would be fine for travelling.  In a 
shoulder bag it would be surrounded by other materials and is good for 
carry-on.  I haven't tried the P3 in a food box, but I'm sure I'd find one, 
even another of the same as the K3 filled with stuff like your bug key, 
headphones, etc.


I know it's not quite what you asked for but I think this is a superior 
solution and the cost is negligible.


David
G3UNA

- Original Message - 
From: Alan Hawrylyshen k2...@polyphase.ca

To: elecraft elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 5:16 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 + P3 Combo Pelican / Hard Case



I have looked at the archives a little bit, but I haven't quite stumbled on
a short and sweet paragraph or two about this.

Has anyone selected and used a Pelican case to protect and transport a
K3/100 + P3 combo. If so, what case did you choose?

I've been looking at the 15xx (1550) and possibly the iM2500 cases; but
they are quite 'tight' dimensionally. I'm interested in any experiences
people have with:

1) Pelican Cases for a K3/100+P3 combo (I mention /100 because of the fans
hanging back), and/or;
2) Experience with a similar but potentially less expensive option.

I'd like to pack my radio up for the trip to G-land and select a case that
would allow me to take the radio on a DXpedition at some point -- so an
option is to expand the case size to include the power supply, etc.

More than anything - I'm interested in opinions around how much space is
needed to protect the radio, etc.

Thanks
Alan
K2ACK 


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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread W4GRJ
I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on my 
boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I have 
almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the boat.

Jack
W4GRJ

On Nov 30, 2013, at 3:17, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:

As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, ie 
good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.

David
G3UNA



- Original Message - From: Jeff Cochrane jeffvk...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 1:01 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power


 On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:
 
 I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
 I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
 available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
 (hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.
 
 
 -- 
 Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA
 East Innisfail
 QLD, Australia
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Re: [Elecraft] P3/SVGA send-receive

2013-11-30 Thread Mike K2MK
Hi Gary,

No keyboard is required if you want to view CW/RTTY/PSK decode on the
external monitor connected to the SVGA board in the P3. The P3 doesn't do
any of the decoding. It just displays the same thing that the K3 displays if
you have decode turned on. What it does do is display a continuous stream of
decode. The area on the monitor can be enlarged to more or fewer lines of
decode as desired. The feature is turned on in the SVGA card in the SVGA
menu group. I use this and it works just fine. The only caveat is that
occasionally the K3 starts in 75 baud RTTY which won't properly decode 45
baud RTTY. It's necessary to change this using the K3 Data Mode Button.

Now if you feel the need to also send CW/RTTY/PSK from an external keyboard
that can be accomplished by plugging in a USB keyboard into the SVGA board.
Additional capabilities include numerous memories for canned messages and
the ability to send macros from the keyboard. Detailed explanations can be
found in the P3 SVGA manual. You can also just use the keyboard for it's
ability to store and recall numerous macros.This can be a lot of fun if you
are into K3 and P3 macros.

73,
Mike K2MK


Gary NL7Y wrote
 After some time adrift in radio ownership land I just received another
 K3/P3, now with a P3SVGA. Elecraft sales indicated that CW/RTTY/PSK encode
 send and decode receive was now enabled and viewable on the P3 by adding a
 PC compatible PC USB BIOS keyboard, and splitting the display. I don’t
 intend to initially use the Utility via my Mac, just the K3/P3.
 
 Have others used this digital feature? Any brief operating suggestions?
 I’ll finish the shack install tomorrow and am reading the Manuals as I
 explore the changes since my previous 2009 K3. I’ve not gone back through
 all the Elecraft Archives yet to search the comments on the process.
 
 73, Gary NL7Y





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-SVGA-send-receive-tp7581258p7581264.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread David Cutter

Hello Jack

I can see your experience is good.  I haven't so far uncovered what is meant 
by life for these batteries, perhaps it's when the energy being fed in is 
more than double what is taken out or something of the kind, or the time it 
takes to drain to a projected cut-off.  I doubt that the internal resistance 
is measured.  As an ex marine operator, standby (emergency) battery life was 
very important and they were replaced on a strict schedule, however good or 
bad they might be in use - a bit like alarm batteries and such like.  I know 
amateur requirements are somewhat flexible shall we say : - )


David
G3UNA



I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on 
my boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I 
have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the 
boat.


Jack
W4GRJ

On Nov 30, 2013, at 3:17, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:

As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, 
ie good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.


David
G3UNA




On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:

I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
(hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.



--
Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA 


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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread W4GRJ
David,
I believe the key to AGM longevity is to keep them on a proper charger 24/7.
This is what I have done with excellent results.

Jack
W4GRJ 

On Nov 30, 2013, at 9:36, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:

Hello Jack

I can see your experience is good.  I haven't so far uncovered what is meant by 
life for these batteries, perhaps it's when the energy being fed in is more 
than double what is taken out or something of the kind, or the time it takes to 
drain to a projected cut-off.  I doubt that the internal resistance is 
measured.  As an ex marine operator, standby (emergency) battery life was very 
important and they were replaced on a strict schedule, however good or bad they 
might be in use - a bit like alarm batteries and such like.  I know amateur 
requirements are somewhat flexible shall we say : - )

David
G3UNA



I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on my 
boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I have 
almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the boat.

Jack
W4GRJ

On Nov 30, 2013, at 3:17, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:

As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, ie 
good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.

David
G3UNA



 On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:
 
 I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
 I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
 available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
 (hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.
 
 
 -- 
 Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA 

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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Jim Bennett
My 2.5 centavos worth -

I've been running my station (couple years with an IC-756 Pro III, and three+ 
years a K3/100) on three Sun-Xtender PV-1040T AGM batteries connected in 
parallel. They are 104 AH each, so I've got about 300+ AH to run my equipment. 
These three batteries are connected to a ProStar 15M charge controller, which 
is also hooked to a single 72-watt G.E. solar panel. These three batteries have 
ample power to run my K3 at full power (along with a KAT500 auto tuner) for 
hours on end, along with a 12v station desk lamp. The batteries are at least 
6-7 years old and appear to be holding their own. I have them connected to an 
N8XJK boost regulator, which provides me with a full-time supply of 14 volts 
into a RigRunner 4008 power distribution module. In addition to the K3, I have 
a home-brew 80 watt, all-mode, 2 meter linear amplifier running from the same 
supply to give my K3's 2 meter RF a little punch. My K3 has never been 
connected to the power company mains - 100% solar / battery. Now
 , my KPA500 amplifier - that's a different story!

Jim / W6JHB

On   Saturday, Nov 30, 2013, at  Saturday, 8:29 AM, W4GRJ wrote:

 David,
 I believe the key to AGM longevity is to keep them on a proper charger 24/7.
 This is what I have done with excellent results.
 
 Jack
 W4GRJ 
 
 On Nov 30, 2013, at 9:36, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 
 Hello Jack
 
 I can see your experience is good.  I haven't so far uncovered what is meant 
 by life for these batteries, perhaps it's when the energy being fed in is 
 more than double what is taken out or something of the kind, or the time it 
 takes to drain to a projected cut-off.  I doubt that the internal resistance 
 is measured.  As an ex marine operator, standby (emergency) battery life was 
 very important and they were replaced on a strict schedule, however good or 
 bad they might be in use - a bit like alarm batteries and such like.  I know 
 amateur requirements are somewhat flexible shall we say : - )
 
 David
 G3UNA
 
 
 
 I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on my 
 boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I 
 have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the boat.
 
 Jack
 W4GRJ
 
 On Nov 30, 2013, at 3:17, David Cutter d.cut...@ntlworld.com wrote:
 
 As I understand it, AGM batteries are designed for high current performance, 
 ie good for engine starting, but for radio use I would have thought that gel 
 batteries would be more suitable as they have a longer life, particularly in 
 hot climates.  I have no experience of either, just reading the specs.
 
 David
 G3UNA
 
 
 
 On Thu, 28 Nov 2013 05:36:15 +1000, John's email k...@att.net wrote:
 
 I use 2 x 6V 300AH AGM batteries as the prime power source in my shack.
 I use a 15Amp smart charger to keep them topped up whilst mains power is 
 available and a 200Watt solar panel is available for after cyclones 
 (hurricanes) as we invariably lose power for a day or three after them.
 
 
 -- 
 Jeff Cochrane - VK4XA 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Dr. William J. Schmidt, II
I use these solar panels for portable operation.  They are at Dayton every
year and sell their blemished military panels to Hams.

http://www.powerfilmsolar.com/products/?foldable_solar_panelsshow=category;
productCategoryID=6579productCategoryIDs=6578,6579



Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ
 
Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois
 
email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


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[Elecraft] APF

2013-11-30 Thread todd ruby
Can someone explain how to engage and use the Audio Peak Filter on the K3?

thanks in advance

todd

WB2ZAB
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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread AG0N-3055
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 04:12:54 -0500, W4GRJ wrote:

 I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on my 
 boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I 
 have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the boat.

Which has nothing to do with this application.  A boat is like a car. In
the shack and with solar power, they charge and never have a large
current discharge put on them like a starter motor.

Gary
-- 
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] APF

2013-11-30 Thread Sam Morgan

I'll copy and paste from my notes, hope it helps clear it up for you.
sm


APF on the K3
The APF is an easy tool to use. However, one of the main concerns people 
are talking about now is the fact that the filter seems to be a bit 
tight, and tends to ring. This, of course, is normal for an APF (IIR 
type filter), but not everyone wants to hear ringing on their CW signal 
when they use it. Others just can’t copy the CW signal when the ringing 
is at the same exact frequency as their CW tone. For this reason I have 
written this little tutorial on how to remove the ringing from your APF 
filter while still getting the most out of it.


Let’s start by centering your SHIFT (before you turn on the APF) and 
make sure you see the * next to your PITCH/center IF frequency. Next, 
spot the CW signal in. i.e., hit the SPOT button when you’re trying to 
copy someone, or use the VFO to center the line on the CWT display. Now 
you can be sure that the CW station is in the center of your IF 
passband. Next, adjust the width setting to your liking. It almost 
doesn’t matter once the APF is on what you choose. However, what it will 
help with is blocking noise from the sides of the signal you’re 
listening to. This can be helpful if you have other stations that are 
very close to the CW signal you’re trying to peak. The lower you set 
your Width filter the more you will reject to the sides. Any signals 
(including noise) that are left over on the sides will be compounded 
into the center of your IF passband and cause more ringing noise. So I 
would suggest that you keep your WIDTH from 250 Hz to 100 Hz setting. 
You can play more with the WIDTH control once you have the APF on.


Turn on the RIT control (tap the RIT button). Next, lower the RIT 
frequency -20 Hz. (You must have CONFIG:PB CTRL in the config menu set 
to .01 to move in 10 Hz steps). If your pitch is set to 500 Hz, then the 
tone of the CW should now be 480 Hz. Next, turn on the APF by HOLDING 
the DUAL PB button. Adjust the APF using the SHIFT Fc Knob (now APF 
control). Move the APF down -20 Hz to match the CW signal. Once you have 
the signal in the center of the new 480 Hz tone you should hear that the 
CW signal pops up about 5 or 6 dB.


What you should also notice is that CW tone is now centered at a 
different frequency than your IF passband center. This also allows you 
to avoid peaking the ringing sounds that live in the center of your 
selected IF area. Your brain is now free to discriminate the two 
different tones instead of having to copy code at the same frequency as 
all the ringing noise.


If and When the K3 has a variable Q adjustment you will then be able to 
avoid the ringing by opening up the tightness of the PEAK Filter and 
allowing a little more signal to pass. Of course you also compromise the 
“sharpness” of the current APF operation, but if you feel that you don’t 
need as much peaking on the signal then you will be able to control it a 
little more accurately. Having a Variable Q control would be best used 
on a signal that is ‘less’ weak than those hard to copy signals in the 
noise floor.


Another great feature of the APF is being able to use it on either/or 
filter position I or II. If you like, you can set filter I for APF off, 
and filter II to APF on. Switching between the two filters is as easy as 
HOLDING the SHIFT knob in. Once you set either filter position with the 
APF on or off the K3 will remember how you have it set.


Dusty K3WC


Jun 26, 2012; 1:19pm
K3/KX3 Operating Tip: APF (audio peaking filter) for weak-signal CW work

Both the K3 and KX3 have an APF control (audio peaking filter). APF
can be extremely effective when you're trying to copy weak CW signals
buried in noise.

Most DSP filters have very steep skirts; they're often referred to as
brick-wall filters for this reason. This is the type of filtering
associated with the WIDTH control (K3) or PBT control (KX3).

In contrast, the APF is a filter with a very narrow peak (about 30 Hz
at the -3 dB points) and very broad skirts. The narrow peak brings up
the signal amplitude slightly, while the broad skirts prevent noise
from being amplified and delayed in such a way as to dominate the
signal. The APF function used in the K3 and KX3 is a modern DSP
reinterpretation of the hardware APF circuit found on some legacy
transceivers, which was very effective.

On the KX3, the APF switch is labeled APF (tap), while on the K3,
it's labeled DUAL PB (hold). The K3 actually provides two different
special filter functions; use the DUAL PB menu entry to set up the
switch for APF.

When you turn on APF, the DSP graphic changes to remind you of the
nature of APF, with its narrow peak and broad skirts.

I suggest setting the passband width to about 250-300 Hz when using
APF. The DSP graphic still shows an approximate representation of the
width even with APF turned on.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On 11/30/2013 11:45 

Re: [Elecraft] APF

2013-11-30 Thread Sam Morgan

one more fyi on the [XFIL/DUALPB] button
when in RTTY, both AFSK A and FSK D, it's a Dual Passband Filter
when in CW mode it acts like the single peak APF

there's an image of the APF in use on N1EU site:
http://n1eu.com/K3/K3_apf.htm


On 11/30/2013 11:56 AM, Sam Morgan wrote:

I'll copy and paste from my notes, hope it helps clear it up for you.
sm


APF on the K3
The APF is an easy tool to use. However, one of the main concerns people
are talking about now is the fact that the filter seems to be a bit
tight, and tends to ring. This, of course, is normal for an APF (IIR
type filter), but not everyone wants to hear ringing on their CW signal
when they use it. Others just can’t copy the CW signal when the ringing
is at the same exact frequency as their CW tone. For this reason I have
written this little tutorial on how to remove the ringing from your APF
filter while still getting the most out of it.

Let’s start by centering your SHIFT (before you turn on the APF) and
make sure you see the * next to your PITCH/center IF frequency. Next,
spot the CW signal in. i.e., hit the SPOT button when you’re trying to
copy someone, or use the VFO to center the line on the CWT display. Now
you can be sure that the CW station is in the center of your IF
passband. Next, adjust the width setting to your liking. It almost
doesn’t matter once the APF is on what you choose. However, what it will
help with is blocking noise from the sides of the signal you’re
listening to. This can be helpful if you have other stations that are
very close to the CW signal you’re trying to peak. The lower you set
your Width filter the more you will reject to the sides. Any signals
(including noise) that are left over on the sides will be compounded
into the center of your IF passband and cause more ringing noise. So I
would suggest that you keep your WIDTH from 250 Hz to 100 Hz setting.
You can play more with the WIDTH control once you have the APF on.

Turn on the RIT control (tap the RIT button). Next, lower the RIT
frequency -20 Hz. (You must have CONFIG:PB CTRL in the config menu set
to .01 to move in 10 Hz steps). If your pitch is set to 500 Hz, then the
tone of the CW should now be 480 Hz. Next, turn on the APF by HOLDING
the DUAL PB button. Adjust the APF using the SHIFT Fc Knob (now APF
control). Move the APF down -20 Hz to match the CW signal. Once you have
the signal in the center of the new 480 Hz tone you should hear that the
CW signal pops up about 5 or 6 dB.

What you should also notice is that CW tone is now centered at a
different frequency than your IF passband center. This also allows you
to avoid peaking the ringing sounds that live in the center of your
selected IF area. Your brain is now free to discriminate the two
different tones instead of having to copy code at the same frequency as
all the ringing noise.

If and When the K3 has a variable Q adjustment you will then be able to
avoid the ringing by opening up the tightness of the PEAK Filter and
allowing a little more signal to pass. Of course you also compromise the
“sharpness” of the current APF operation, but if you feel that you don’t
need as much peaking on the signal then you will be able to control it a
little more accurately. Having a Variable Q control would be best used
on a signal that is ‘less’ weak than those hard to copy signals in the
noise floor.

Another great feature of the APF is being able to use it on either/or
filter position I or II. If you like, you can set filter I for APF off,
and filter II to APF on. Switching between the two filters is as easy as
HOLDING the SHIFT knob in. Once you set either filter position with the
APF on or off the K3 will remember how you have it set.

Dusty K3WC


Jun 26, 2012; 1:19pm
K3/KX3 Operating Tip: APF (audio peaking filter) for weak-signal CW work

Both the K3 and KX3 have an APF control (audio peaking filter). APF
can be extremely effective when you're trying to copy weak CW signals
buried in noise.

Most DSP filters have very steep skirts; they're often referred to as
brick-wall filters for this reason. This is the type of filtering
associated with the WIDTH control (K3) or PBT control (KX3).

In contrast, the APF is a filter with a very narrow peak (about 30 Hz
at the -3 dB points) and very broad skirts. The narrow peak brings up
the signal amplitude slightly, while the broad skirts prevent noise
from being amplified and delayed in such a way as to dominate the
signal. The APF function used in the K3 and KX3 is a modern DSP
reinterpretation of the hardware APF circuit found on some legacy
transceivers, which was very effective.

On the KX3, the APF switch is labeled APF (tap), while on the K3,
it's labeled DUAL PB (hold). The K3 actually provides two different
special filter functions; use the DUAL PB menu entry to set up the
switch for APF.

When you turn on APF, the DSP graphic changes to remind you of the
nature of APF, with its narrow peak and broad skirts.

I 

Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread WILLIS COOKE
I for one would be interested in more details.  Which products do you use?  
What is needed to prevent overcharge.  What does less than full sun do to the 
capacity.  What sort of storage do you use and what sort of load do you service?
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Dr. William J. Schmidt, II b...@wjschmidt.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 11:44 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power
 

I use these solar panels for portable operation.  They are at Dayton every
year and sell their blemished military panels to Hams.

http://www.powerfilmsolar.com/products/?foldable_solar_panelsshow=category;
productCategoryID=6579productCategoryIDs=6578,6579



Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ / J68HZ/ 8P6HK/ ZF2HZ

Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch
Staunton, Illinois

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Carrying case Market Research (:-)

2013-11-30 Thread Jim Lowman
For those who are interested, I have one of the early models that Rose 
made custom for me.


While the XYL and I were at the International DX Convention in Visalia 
earlier this year, someone borrowed one of her KX3 cases and took it to 
the Elecraft booth.

It was a snug fit, and the KXPA100 missed fitting in by about 1 in height.
Rose was amenable to the modification, at no extra charge no less, and 
also agreed to a larger back pocket so that Fred Cady's KX3 manual could 
be carried as well.


I'm very happy with the way my case turned out.  There's also plenty of 
room for accessories (I have both side pockets) like headphones, paddle 
and antenna.


As far as the market research question, I doubt that I will actually 
take the KXPA100 portable, but I wanted that option if things changed 
down the road.
Our local Field Day is 100% QRP and mostly Elecraft (K2s, one K3 and a 
KX3 last year - more next year, including mine) so the KXPA100 won't be 
needed for that event.


73 de Jim - AD6CW
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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread W4GRJ
Garyyou are incorrect, because you have no idea what the duty cycle is on 
my boat. Between the 1000 watt sonar, Radar, Multi Function Display's, vhf and 
hf radios, my AGM's are tested a lot more than the usual amateur station. As an 
electrical engineer, I have a pretty good idea of the various applications 
using batteries as E/I source and the associated mathematics. 

Jack
W4GRJ

On Nov 30, 2013, at 12:49, AG0N-3055 mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote:

On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 04:12:54 -0500, W4GRJ wrote:

 I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on my 
 boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I 
 have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the boat.

Which has nothing to do with this application.  A boat is like a car. In
the shack and with solar power, they charge and never have a large
current discharge put on them like a starter motor.

Gary
-- 
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Fred Smith
I'm very interested in your complete setup on the boat. I'm Not an
engineer nor a whiz in the math department but do use some of the items
discussed and always looking for ways to improve my merger station.

Thanks for your input on this topic.


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m

 

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of W4GRJ
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 2:08 PM
To: mcduf...@garymcduffie.com
Cc: elecraft
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

Garyyou are incorrect, because you have no idea what the duty cycle is
on my boat. Between the 1000 watt sonar, Radar, Multi Function Display's,
vhf and hf radios, my AGM's are tested a lot more than the usual amateur
station. As an electrical engineer, I have a pretty good idea of the various
applications using batteries as E/I source and the associated mathematics. 

Jack
W4GRJ

On Nov 30, 2013, at 12:49, AG0N-3055 mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote:

On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 04:12:54 -0500, W4GRJ wrote:

 I live in Florida and as a fishing guide, the  4 group 27 AGM batteries on
my boat have performed perfectly now for over 4 years of almost daily use. I
have almost every piece of marine electronics and radios running on the
boat.

Which has nothing to do with this application.  A boat is like a car. In the
shack and with solar power, they charge and never have a large current
discharge put on them like a starter motor.

Gary
--
http://ag0n.net
3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055
NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp
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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2013.0.3426 / Virus Database: 3629/6877 - Release Date: 11/29/13

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Re: [Elecraft] P3/SVGA send-receive

2013-11-30 Thread Gary NL7Y
Thank you Mike K2MK and others that sent e-mail direct. Your suggestions on
operating the K3/P3 are appreciated. Lots to relearn and learn anew. 

73, Gary NL7Y



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and solar panels

2013-11-30 Thread KD6QZX
Howdy Gene, I am Scott AK6Q   (email is old call sign)
 
I have been using the A123 systems lithium nano phospate 12v 4.6aH battery with 
a US military 65W folding solar panel and a chinese charge controler (DC to 
DC).  Pictured is my system.  I got all of the parts from Ebay.  A123 is about 
$129, the Solar Panel is $199 and the charge controler is about $29.
 
I put it in my new bug out bag with a dipole 20M and an EndFed Half Wave 
antenna, throw line, KX3, Mic and Paddles, and note taking stuff and a small 
parts bag all for less than 17lbs.
 
 



From: Gene Ruff [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n7581153...@n2.nabble.com
To: KD6QZX kd6...@sbcglobal.net 
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 11:43 AM
Subject: KX3 and solar panels



I am looking for  information on using folding solar panels with my KX3 . 
success stories or sad ones. Thanks G. R. 
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Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread WILLIS COOKE
All this talk about solar panels makes Green such an ugly color and the smell 
of gasoline and the roar of an engine seem so much more practical.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Bill Blomgren (kk4qdz) billblomg...@yahoo.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 5:13 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power
 


The 70 watt panels will produce 2-3 and up to 6 amps when fully illuminated 
-- That means having an aiming system of some sort so that they swivel... Not 
something I'd put on a roof around here... (especially since I'm not allowed 
to.)
 
a 3-4 amp charge rate would take a while on a 100 amp hour battery... but still 
passable. (won't cook the battery either..)
 
Two of the 70 watt panels sound like what would really do the job.  Didn't 
realize that they were only 40 watt panels. The guy here had some 35 volt 
panels that he sells to the highway department for roadside equipment.  (You 
can never tell what he has in stock, however...) He's always out of stock at 
the end of the hamfest season, unfortunately.  (I would have gotten one of this 
70 amp panels, and a charge controller...possibly 2 of them.)  Again, my 
location is SUB Optimal for solar, but at least I could have light and a small 
fan and perhaps TV if the power goes off...
 
KK4QDZ - Now with Extra Class Priv's, and a tiny KX3 to enjoy them!

From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
To: Bill Blomgren (kk4qdz) billblomg...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power



The Harbor Freight offering is the one that I have been wondering if it is 
worthwhile.  It is on sale tomorrow for 139.95, but it is three 15 watt panels 
for a total of 45 watts.  Using the information you collected it would mean 
about two days of good sun to charge a car battery.  You might be able to get 
two straight days of good sun on a Sport Fisherman at sea, but unlikely to get 
that much at a Deer Lease in your camper unless you are camping in West Texas 
or Arizona or some similar place.  The efficiency on a boat would depend on 
cloud cover and how much charging you can get from the engine alternator.  I 
would guess that the person with four batteries has separate batteries for 
cranking and is using the 4 batteries  only for electronics and housekeeping 
and using other batteries for cranking.  The electronics he describes sounds to 
me like a Sport Fisherman or a large center console with two electrical 
systems.  Most of these can get some
 charging from the engines when the cranking batteries are fully charged or at 
least nearly so.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart

From: Bill Blomgren (kk4qdz) billblomg...@yahoo.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 4:08 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power



 
I've seen numbers thrown around at hamfests by a local solar guy - figure 50% 
of the claimed output of any solar panel since at normal 'earth level'  you 
might see full output for only a few minutes at noon.  He was selling a 40 
amp hour led acid in a roll around cooler with a 40 watt panel attached to the 
handles for a reasonable amount. (I don't remember the exact number) - with a 
charge controller.  His comment was it would probably take 6 hours for the 
panel to take the battery from 10 volts up to 'full'.  He had panels there that 
were up to 70 watts, which is okand there is a kit from harbor freight that 
is about $150 or something for a 100 watt 2 panel (or was it 150/3 panel) 
without batteries...Throw in the charge controller, and the batteries...and you 
have a FAIR backup.  (The panels they use degrade over time, however.. loosing 
oomph after 3-4 years...)
 
They pulse the batteries in most cases, so that means that pulses are faster 
and a tad bigger when the panels are throwing out the most energy..at least 
until the battery is topped off.
 
KK4QDZ - Now with Extra Class Priv's, and a tiny KX3 to enjoy them!

From: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
To: Bill Blomgren (kk4qdz) billblomg...@yahoo.com 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 3:49 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power



I am watching for such comments.  I am interested in the noise of the charger 
as well as the amount of reduced capability under less than optimum charging 
conditions.  You are correct in general about charging capacity and load 
capacity, but the charging capacity chosen needs to take the self minimum 
discharge which adds the minimum load and the self discharge load  as well as 
the maximum load and duty cycle.  One would not want to use a 0.5 amp charger 
to charge a 100 amp battery, but would a 45 watt 3.5 amp charger be adequate?  
Typical manufacturer's specs will usually not advertise this but inquiring 
minds want to know!
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft K3/100 and options

2013-11-30 Thread Dick

I have my K3/100 for sale.
K3/100 # 5250 Factory assembled.
following options
KRX3-F K3 2nd receive
rKFL3A-400 - 400 Hz 8-pole IF filter
KFL3A-2.1K 2.1khz, 8 pole roofing filter
KAT3 - Internal ATU with 2nd Ant
KXV3A - RX Ant, IF Out and Xverter Interface
KTCX03-1 - High stability reference oscillator
Power Cord
Original User Manuals
New cost nearly $ 4000.00
$3000.00 shipping/ins included in the cont. US
Scale of 1-10, a perfect 10 in looks and performance. I also have the 
Fred Cady Manual included.

US Postal money order/Paypal w/fees
Pictures available upon request.
TIA, 73 Dick
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Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT

It really depends on what you're trying to do.

A lot of us like to operate portable.  For some of us, that's the only 
way to get an antenna up.


A small generator weighs a bit over 30 pounds, plus about six pounds for 
every gallon of gas.


A 65w solar panel weights about four pounds.

It's a lot quieter too.

How far do you want to carry that generator?

-- Lynn

On 11/30/2013 3:33 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:

All this talk about solar panels makes Green such an ugly color and the smell 
of gasoline and the roar of an engine seem so much more practical.
  
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke

K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart





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Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Ray Sills
For QRP operation and portable operation, there's a lot to be said for  
solar power.  For QRO, gasoline is probably more practical.  But, in  
the long run, humans will run out of gasoline way before they run out  
of sunlight.  Of course, that assumes that there still will be humans.


For the record, I have a couple of small solar panels, but I am  
looking at possibly getting a panel with 20 watts or so capacity.   
And, I do have a very small gasoline generator (a Honda unit, good for  
300 watts max, 150 watts economy setting) which is fairly quiet (less  
than 55 dBA).  I'd rather use solar/battery for portable operating.



On Nov 30, 2013, at 7:11 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:


It really depends on what you're trying to do.

A lot of us like to operate portable.  For some of us, that's the  
only way to get an antenna up.


A small generator weighs a bit over 30 pounds, plus about six pounds  
for every gallon of gas.


A 65w solar panel weights about four pounds.

It's a lot quieter too.

How far do you want to carry that generator?

-- Lynn

On 11/30/2013 3:33 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
All this talk about solar panels makes Green such an ugly color and  
the smell of gasoline and the roar of an engine seem so much more  
practical.

 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart





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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Jim Brown

On 11/30/2013 9:49 AM, AG0N-3055 wrote:

A boat is like a car.


Depends a lot on the boat.  Check out KC2IOV/MM. Four solar panels 
(high, angled at the stern) keep her batteries charged enough to run a 
100W ICOM marine radio and all the lighting and instruments on her 
38-foot sail boat.  She just finished a solo, non-stop, unassisted 
circumnavigation of the earth, entirely on sail power alone. I worked 
her several times on 40M SSB from the South Indian Ocean.


73, Jim K9YC.
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Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Your point is well taken Lynn.  Some of us are trying to make a QRP contact 
from the peak of Mt. Everest, some are trying to survive an ice storm or 
hurricane, some of us want to catch a giant fish and need radar and sonar to do 
it, some of us want to crank the diesel on the boat and some want to make a pot 
of coffee at a primitive deer camp.  We are all wanting to use solar energy and 
 batteries and we have very different objectives.  We all have in common that 
we need to understand our options to make the correct choice.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Saturday, November 30, 2013 6:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power
 

It really depends on what you're trying to do.

A lot of us like to operate portable.  For some of us, that's the only way to 
get an antenna up.

A small generator weighs a bit over 30 pounds, plus about six pounds for every 
gallon of gas.

A 65w solar panel weights about four pounds.

It's a lot quieter too.

How far do you want to carry that generator?

-- Lynn

On 11/30/2013 3:33 PM, WILLIS COOKE wrote:
 All this talk about solar panels makes Green such an ugly color and the smell 
 of gasoline and the roar of an engine seem so much more practical.
   Willis 'Cookie' Cooke
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and solar panels

2013-11-30 Thread Mel Farrer
Just received my Instapark Mercury27W solar panel from Amazon for $119.  It 
included a standard power plug for 12VDC, BUT it is unregulated and open 
circuit is 18.58 VDC  It also has 2 USB ports for charging external devices.  I 
will install a post regulator for 14.1 VDC and leave the rest alone.  It has 4 
panels and folds up into a oversize 8.5 x 11 x 2 inch package.  So far, it 
powers the Battery fine.  

Mel, K6KBE





On Saturday, November 30, 2013 2:56 PM, KD6QZX kd6...@sbcglobal.net wrote:
 
Howdy Gene, I am Scott AK6Q   (email is old call sign)
 
I have been using the A123 systems lithium nano phospate 12v 4.6aH battery with 
a US military 65W folding solar panel and a chinese charge controler (DC to 
DC).  Pictured is my system.  I got all of the parts from Ebay.  A123 is about 
$129, the Solar Panel is $199 and the charge controler is about $29.
 
I put it in my new bug out bag with a dipole 20M and an EndFed Half Wave 
antenna, throw line, KX3, Mic and Paddles, and note taking stuff and a small 
parts bag all for less than 17lbs.
 
 



From: Gene Ruff [via Elecraft] ml-node+s365791n7581153...@n2.nabble.com
To: KD6QZX kd6...@sbcglobal.net 
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 11:43 AM
Subject: KX3 and solar panels



I am looking for  information on using folding solar panels with my KX3 . 
success stories or sad ones. Thanks G. R. 
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Re: [Elecraft] ... and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread Bob
Despite the fact that I still love the smell of motor oil (can't say I like
gasoline that much now that it is mixed with ethanol), I REALLY enjoyed the
peace and quiet of running solar power during Field Day this year.  I had a
surplus of power available to run my K3 at full output at the GOTA station
with a 100 watt panel and a 60AH LiFePO4 battery.  (I started the contest
with a full battery, and ended it with a full battery plus another 19AH of
surplus power).  I wouldn't have risked our main run stations on the
vagaries of the sun, but perhaps some year we might give it a try.

Of course what is quiet about a radio contest in the first place? But not
having the drone of even a quiet Honda running was more in tune with being
outdoors.

100% of my KX3 activity is solar using a smaller PowerFilm panel and
battery.

73, Bob, WB4SON
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[Elecraft] Elecraft SSB net announcement

2013-11-30 Thread Phil Shepard

The weekly Elecraft SSB net will meet tomorrow (12/1/13) at 1800z on 14.3035 
MHz.  I will be net control from western Oregon.  See you there.

73,
Phil, NS7P

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Re: [Elecraft] Batteries and solar power

2013-11-30 Thread mcduffie
On Sat, 30 Nov 2013 15:08:27 -0500, W4GRJ wrote:

 Garyyou are incorrect, because you have no idea what the duty cycle is on 
 my boat. 

You're right.  I have no idea what you do or how you do it with your boat.  I
was under the (apparently mistaken) assumption that we were talking about
running a ham station at home.  This assumption includes constant charging with
no heavy discharge cycles (assuming a transceiver as the load).  Anyway, I bow
to higher knowledge.

Gary
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