Re: [Elecraft] AF recorder function
Hi Don, All I want is to have the AF REC come on when I turn the rig on, rather than having to remember to push the appropriate button. I'm not worried about the fact that it only records for a relatively short period before it overwrites what it has already recorded. I just want to be able to check back a few seconds - did the DX station really get my call right etc... If I haven't remembered to turn AF REC on, I can't do that. 73 Stephen G4SJP On 27 January 2014 02:42, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Stephen, It sounds like you want a continuous recording. May I suggest that you look into some PC applicaion that will provide that function. Such continuous recording is not a design parameter of the K3 DVR. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/26/2014 5:23 PM, Stephen Prior wrote: I have often thought that I would like to have the AF record option working all the time. Too often I have forgotten to turn it on and regretted that I cannot play back a callsign or report exchange and so on. It would be nice to be able to set this in options such that the K3 has AF REC enabled on switch-on. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Amsterdam Island, was: KPA500 Clicks
A lot of the world is transmitting half the time in the blind because the LIDs that are sending dits and UP UP, etc. cover the DX station even if they can hear the DX when the noise subsided a little. The week end is over and some of the masses will have to go back to work. When the first day is on a week end you can expect Bedlam for rare DX, but it will be worth it if I can work FT5ZM. So far, no joy! Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman K5EWJ Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart From: Fred Jensen k6...@foothill.net To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Sunday, January 26, 2014 10:24 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Amsterdam Island, was: KPA500 Clicks On 1/26/2014 7:46 PM, Bob wrote: Strangely, it's about that wide, although a bit sparser, when he's transmitting too No kidding! It is like 95% of the world is transmitting in the blind. And I'm going to be hearing up, up, up in my sleep for days. Yep, the pile never really subsides, but he calls someone and 30 signals pop up to add to the blind callers. I'm retired, I can wait a few days, I'm not a Big Gun. The ops do have great ears and great gear. I'm very impressed with signal levels on 30/20/17 so far. I am stunned! They're close to the N. Cal antipode, Indian Ocean stations are usually ESP for me, these guys are over S9. And they're picking stations out of a huge pile very quickly. Great ops! 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K-Line from Amsterdam Island
Thank you Elecraft for your support of the DXpedition: www.amsterdamdx.org Take a listen, it was a ATNO for me (55 years a ham): http://www.flickr.com/photos/ak5x/12163872415/ 73, Bill Bill Hammond wham...@aol.com Bill Hammond-AK5X a...@mac.com a...@sbcglobal.net K3 #69 P3 #817 KPA500 # 149 KAT500 # 290 K3/0 #200 K2/100 #4637 K1 #2033 KX1 #1023 KX3 #583 W2 T1 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
My KPA500 s/n 107 produces clicks from time to time, even in STBY or on RX. Glad I now know why - the Z bracket! Nothing to worry about! 73 Richard - HB9ANM __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 to Alpha 374A Question
I'm connecting my K3 and KAT 500 to my Alpha 374A this morning. I'd appreciate details of the connection...Kindest thanks- Carl in Ga -W1ABO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KAT500
Bill is correct. In it's current state the KAT500 has a major flaw. I wants to retune at inopportune times. Elecraft has responded to this problem but has not released new firmware to correct the problem. I'm not saying you shouldn't order one now but be aware the problem is real. Keith -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-to-KAT500-tp7583270p7583358.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] VFO B problems
Hello everyone A rather curious phenomenon occured to my K3 (# 2450) some time ago : the VFO B readings display no more a frequency, but only the main menu or the configuration, however I tap or hold the Menu/Configurationbutton. The VFO B knob is dead, and does not change the frequency if I check with the A/B button. And the second receiver is mute, though it seems to connect something when I press Sub. Has anyone an idea ? Thanks for any help... Jacques de F9OJ PS : I found no solution in the abundant configuration menu ! __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!
Hey Elecraft gang, I bought a K2/10 this week that has just the DSP and NB option installed. Apparently she was built by Mr. David Runk, AA3EJ, and according to the seller built to perfection. :) Serial number 7088. Anyhow! I have been scouring the web for information and have a ton of it! But I was wondering if anyhow had a checklist that I could go through when she arrives to ensure all is well with the rig? Thanks in advance for any guidance! 73! Warren /AB6YA SKCC 11655 NAQCC 7060 __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!
Warren, No checklist, but I would suggest opening the manual and work through the front panel controls and rear panel connections. Set yourself up some simulated operating with CW, voice modes, and data mods when you get to those sections in the manual. Then look over the Advanced Operating Feature, and finally review the menu items listed in the manual. That should give you both a checkout of the K3 operation as well as familiarity with the K3 and its capabilities. Download the latest K3 Utility and load the latest firmware, then save a configuration file as well. After that, should you have questions about something, you will know about where to find it in the manual. Good luck and enjoy that K3. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 12:36 PM, Warren Allred wrote: Hey Elecraft gang, I bought a K2/10 this week that has just the DSP and NB option installed. Apparently she was built by Mr. David Runk, AA3EJ, and according to the seller built to perfection. :) Serial number 7088. Anyhow! I have been scouring the web for information and have a ton of it! But I was wondering if anyhow had a checklist that I could go through when she arrives to ensure all is well with the rig? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] low IF output
I have two issues that may be related. I'm wondering if I'm missing the obvious. IF output from K3 to panadapter (Softrock Ensemble) seems way low as compared to a seperate antenna feeding the softrock. It's probably at least 10db down. This is K3 # 7956 so it's very late serial number. Just completed assembly a couple weeks ago. The second issue is, if I have the receive antenna set to ATU in the menu and hit the receive ant button the signal drops at least 10db. Shouldn't it be the same as not hitting the button in that configuration? I gotta feelin' I'm over thinkin this one to the point of just missin it. Thanks in advance, 73, Gary KC9EE __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!
Warren and all, I have been informed by a couple folks that I did not read the post as well as I should have, and you are dealing with a K2. The answer is similar, go through the manual - if it is not provided, you can download it. For the K2, you can skip the Assembly sections, but go through the three Alignment and Test sections because that is where you will gain familiarity with the K2. Do the same for each installed option. If you do not have the option manuals, download them from the Elecraft website. There is no K2 Utility, and you cannot save a configuration file, but you might want to record the menu settings. If so, download the K2 A to B Upgrade instructions - the first few pages contain nice charts for manually recording those settings. With that serial number, your K2 is entirely up to date, so no updates are necessary. 73, Don W3FPR Warren, No checklist, but I would suggest opening the manual and work through the front panel controls and rear panel connections. Set yourself up some simulated operating with CW, voice modes, and data mods when you get to those sections in the manual. Then look over the Advanced Operating Feature, and finally review the menu items listed in the manual. That should give you both a checkout of the K3 operation as well as familiarity with the K3 and its capabilities. Download the latest K3 Utility and load the latest firmware, then save a configuration file as well. After that, should you have questions about something, you will know about where to find it in the manual. Good luck and enjoy that K3. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 12:36 PM, Warren Allred wrote: Hey Elecraft gang, I bought a K2/10 this week that has just the DSP and NB option installed. Apparently she was built by Mr. David Runk, AA3EJ, and according to the seller built to perfection. :) Serial number 7088. Anyhow! I have been scouring the web for information and have a ton of it! But I was wondering if anyhow had a checklist that I could go through when she arrives to ensure all is well with the rig? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KAT500
It is enough of a problem that I have been running 100 Watts using the K3's internal tuner for several weeks - waiting for the fix to be delivered. My best description of the KAT500's behavior? It is possessed! Bill W2BLC K-Line(???) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KAT500
Like many, I am curious to learn if/how this issue will be solved for those who experience it. I think it is interesting that there are a number of us who have not seen that problem AT ALL. I am one of the lucky ones, and my antenna does present a challenge to the tuner, since it is close to resonance only on 30 meters. Good luck to all. 73 de Dave - K9FN On Mon, Jan 27, 2014 at 1:30 PM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote: It is enough of a problem that I have been running 100 Watts using the K3's internal tuner for several weeks - waiting for the fix to be delivered. My best description of the KAT500's behavior? It is possessed! Bill W2BLC K-Line(???) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] [K2} K2-100 Test and Alignment Issues
I am now into the test and alignment phases of my just constructed KPA-100 amplifier to be integrated into K2 #3842. Right from the start of this phase, I have run headlong into a two issues I just can't figure out. I am constructing from the Revision G September 2010 manual. On the page 47, the voltage test chart, all measurements are in accordance with the ranges in the chart except for J3+ lead where instead of 0 volts, I am reading a stable and consistent 0.044 volts; certainly not a significant voltage but none the less, it is not zero as called for in the chart. The second issue is with reference to the C1 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment described on page 48. Adjusting C1 varies the power output reading on the K2 LCD but does not vary the SWR readout which remains at 9.9 to 1. However, the SWR/watt meter on my Kenwood AT-200 antenna tuner indicates the K2 is running 15 watts with an SWR of 1 to 1 into the dummy load, a Heathkit Cantenna. Twisting the power pot has no effect on the actual power output as measured on the Kenwood AT-200. Removing the all connections between the K2 and the KPA-100, the K2 functions normally with the power setting pot. I would really appreciate hearing from anyone who can offer any clues to what I am doing wrong in conducting these measurements and adjustments or perhaps identifying a possible construction mistake but gee, I checked so carefully. Thank you, Bill, VE2WMA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KAT500
I wonder why I have never seen this problem. Maybe it is sporadic with different KAT500 instances or possibly it is because I am about 99 percent CW. Maybe this problem is more evident with SSB? 73, phil, K7PEH, K-Line !! On Jan 27, 2014, at 10:30 AM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote: It is enough of a problem that I have been running 100 Watts using the K3's internal tuner for several weeks - waiting for the fix to be delivered. My best description of the KAT500's behavior? It is possessed! Bill W2BLC K-Line(???) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
Thanks for all the comments on the KPA500 Clicks. Looks like I'm not the only one that has noticed it. I guess I won't worry about it. I have had the AMP for a few months now and have been very satisfied with it so far. Thanks again! -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/26/2014 3:03 PM, Steve AI9T wrote: During a couple recent RTTY contest I have noticed that my KPA500 is making a noise. It kind of sounds like a relay clicking in and out. When I first noticed it I thought it was a fan relay or something to do with the fan. But after hearing this longer it seems to be related to the temp. It clicks in an out around the temps of 62C and 56C. It kind or reminds me of an old radiator warming up and cooling off. I took the cover off yesterday and checked the nut that holds the transformer in place. I thought maybe that spring washer might be a little loose but it wasn't. Anyone else ever notice this? Hopefully it is not a serious problem. Thanks __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KAT500
Phil - You may be onto something... I have never tried SSB with the KAT500. Dave - K9FN On Mon, Jan 27, 2014 at 2:02 PM, Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com wrote: I wonder why I have never seen this problem. Maybe it is sporadic with different KAT500 instances or possibly it is because I am about 99 percent CW. Maybe this problem is more evident with SSB? 73, phil, K7PEH, K-Line !! On Jan 27, 2014, at 10:30 AM, Bill W2BLC w2...@nycap.rr.com wrote: It is enough of a problem that I have been running 100 Watts using the K3's internal tuner for several weeks - waiting for the fix to be delivered. My best description of the KAT500's behavior? It is possessed! Bill W2BLC K-Line(???) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2} K2-100 Test and Alignment Issues
By the way - adjust C1 with a non-metallic screwdriver. Both sides of C1 are above ground. 73, Don W3FPR Bill, For the J3+ lead, I think the PA transistors may be producing that voltage in response to light shining on them. Shield the transistors from light and see if the voltage changes - if so, ignore it. As for the C1 adjustment - do the following steps in order. Preset R26 and R27 to about mid-range. If you want a closer setting, measure the resistance to ground from the center pin on the pot and set it close to 43k - you can measure from U5 pin 3 and pin 5 for easier access than the actual potentiometer. Balance the wattmeter by adjusting C1 - monitor the voltage at TP4 while sending 40 meter power through the wattmeter. You should be able to obtain a very near zero voltage if all is well. If you cannot obtain a very low voltage, there is a problem with one or more of the following: T4, D16, D17, R28, R29, C95 or C1. Check the windings of T4 first to be certain the correct leads are in the right holes and have been well stripped and tinned (if there is any question, rewind T4 with new wire). Then check the orientation of D16 and D17 against the parts placement diagram at the back of the manual. Be certain all the parts I mentioned are well soldered and there are no solder bridges. T4 does have a 3rd winding, and that is the red wire from the center of the SO-239 jack to the board for T4-6 and the bare wire from the center of the SO-239 to the board hole marked T4-5. Be certain the bare wire is not touching the shell of the SO-239 and was trimmed so it is not grounding against the heatsink. Once you have achieved the balance point for C1, do not change its position. Adjust R26 during a TUNE to indicate the same power on the K2 display as you read on your external wattmeter. Then adjust R27 to the same position as R26 unless you have a load which can produce a known SWR below 2.0:1, in which case you can use that load and adjust R27 until the K2 shows that known SWR. You can initially set R26 and R27 with the low power from the base K2 (do not connect the APP power cable). Later you may want to refine the R26 setting using 80 or 100 watts. Let us know how you make out. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 2:02 PM, William Moore wrote: I am now into the test and alignment phases of my just constructed KPA-100 amplifier to be integrated into K2 #3842. Right from the start of this phase, I have run headlong into a two issues I just can't figure out. I am constructing from the Revision G September 2010 manual. On the page 47, the voltage test chart, all measurements are in accordance with the ranges in the chart except for J3+ lead where instead of 0 volts, I am reading a stable and consistent 0.044 volts; certainly not a significant voltage but none the less, it is not zero as called for in the chart. The second issue is with reference to the C1 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment described on page 48. Adjusting C1 varies the power output reading on the K2 LCD but does not vary the SWR readout which remains at 9.9 to 1. However, the SWR/watt meter on my Kenwood AT-200 antenna tuner indicates the K2 is running 15 watts with an SWR of 1 to 1 into the dummy load, a Heathkit Cantenna. Twisting the power pot has no effect on the actual power output as measured on the Kenwood AT-200. Removing the all connections between the K2 and the KPA-100, the K2 functions normally with the power setting pot. I would really appreciate hearing from anyone who can offer any clues to what I am doing wrong in conducting these measurements and adjustments or perhaps identifying a possible construction mistake but gee, I checked so carefully. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2} K2-100 Test and Alignment Issues
Bill, For the J3+ lead, I think the PA transistors may be producing that voltage in response to light shining on them. Shield the transistors from light and see if the voltage changes - if so, ignore it. As for the C1 adjustment - do the following steps in order. Preset R26 and R27 to about mid-range. If you want a closer setting, measure the resistance to ground from the center pin on the pot and set it close to 43k - you can measure from U5 pin 3 and pin 5 for easier access than the actual potentiometer. Balance the wattmeter by adjusting C1 - monitor the voltage at TP4 while sending 40 meter power through the wattmeter. You should be able to obtain a very near zero voltage if all is well. If you cannot obtain a very low voltage, there is a problem with one or more of the following: T4, D16, D17, R28, R29, C95 or C1. Check the windings of T4 first to be certain the correct leads are in the right holes and have been well stripped and tinned (if there is any question, rewind T4 with new wire). Then check the orientation of D16 and D17 against the parts placement diagram at the back of the manual. Be certain all the parts I mentioned are well soldered and there are no solder bridges. T4 does have a 3rd winding, and that is the red wire from the center of the SO-239 jack to the board for T4-6 and the bare wire from the center of the SO-239 to the board hole marked T4-5. Be certain the bare wire is not touching the shell of the SO-239 and was trimmed so it is not grounding against the heatsink. Once you have achieved the balance point for C1, do not change its position. Adjust R26 during a TUNE to indicate the same power on the K2 display as you read on your external wattmeter. Then adjust R27 to the same position as R26 unless you have a load which can produce a known SWR below 2.0:1, in which case you can use that load and adjust R27 until the K2 shows that known SWR. You can initially set R26 and R27 with the low power from the base K2 (do not connect the APP power cable). Later you may want to refine the R26 setting using 80 or 100 watts. Let us know how you make out. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 2:02 PM, William Moore wrote: I am now into the test and alignment phases of my just constructed KPA-100 amplifier to be integrated into K2 #3842. Right from the start of this phase, I have run headlong into a two issues I just can't figure out. I am constructing from the Revision G September 2010 manual. On the page 47, the voltage test chart, all measurements are in accordance with the ranges in the chart except for J3+ lead where instead of 0 volts, I am reading a stable and consistent 0.044 volts; certainly not a significant voltage but none the less, it is not zero as called for in the chart. The second issue is with reference to the C1 SWR Bridge Null Adjustment described on page 48. Adjusting C1 varies the power output reading on the K2 LCD but does not vary the SWR readout which remains at 9.9 to 1. However, the SWR/watt meter on my Kenwood AT-200 antenna tuner indicates the K2 is running 15 watts with an SWR of 1 to 1 into the dummy load, a Heathkit Cantenna. Twisting the power pot has no effect on the actual power output as measured on the Kenwood AT-200. Removing the all connections between the K2 and the KPA-100, the K2 functions normally with the power setting pot. I would really appreciate hearing from anyone who can offer any clues to what I am doing wrong in conducting these measurements and adjustments or perhaps identifying a possible construction mistake but gee, I checked so carefully. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
Steve, My KPA500 also has the clicks and pops as it heats up and expands. As I recall, Elecraft offers a fix for this. The fix involves replacing the metal screws that fasten the heat sink to the chassis. They had to go with a larger screw to obtain a tighter hold on the bracket for the heat sink. I assume this has been fixed in newer models. My serial number is in the low 200s. I have never bothered to install this fix, but the clicks do get annoying at times. Is this fix still available? I would think that you can search the archives for a discussion on this topic right after the amp came out. 73, Dave, N4QS -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve AI9T Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 1:05 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks Thanks for all the comments on the KPA500 Clicks. Looks like I'm not the only one that has noticed it. I guess I won't worry about it. I have had the AMP for a few months now and have been very satisfied with it so far. Thanks again! -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/26/2014 3:03 PM, Steve AI9T wrote: During a couple recent RTTY contest I have noticed that my KPA500 is making a noise. It kind of sounds like a relay clicking in and out. When I first noticed it I thought it was a fan relay or something to do with the fan. But after hearing this longer it seems to be related to the temp. It clicks in an out around the temps of 62C and 56C. It kind or reminds me of an old radiator warming up and cooling off. I took the cover off yesterday and checked the nut that holds the transformer in place. I thought maybe that spring washer might be a little loose but it wasn't. Anyone else ever notice this? Hopefully it is not a serious problem. Thanks __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
Hi Dave I didn't know that Elecraft had a fix for this. I will send Tech Support an email and ask them about it. My Amp is fairly new. I built the kit last May. The serial number is 1469. -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/27/2014 3:27 PM, Dave Perry wrote: Steve, My KPA500 also has the clicks and pops as it heats up and expands. As I recall, Elecraft offers a fix for this. The fix involves replacing the metal screws that fasten the heat sink to the chassis. They had to go with a larger screw to obtain a tighter hold on the bracket for the heat sink. I assume this has been fixed in newer models. My serial number is in the low 200s. I have never bothered to install this fix, but the clicks do get annoying at times. Is this fix still available? I would think that you can search the archives for a discussion on this topic right after the amp came out. 73, Dave, N4QS -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve AI9T Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 1:05 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks Thanks for all the comments on the KPA500 Clicks. Looks like I'm not the only one that has noticed it. I guess I won't worry about it. I have had the AMP for a few months now and have been very satisfied with it so far. Thanks again! -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/26/2014 3:03 PM, Steve AI9T wrote: During a couple recent RTTY contest I have noticed that my KPA500 is making a noise. It kind of sounds like a relay clicking in and out. When I first noticed it I thought it was a fan relay or something to do with the fan. But after hearing this longer it seems to be related to the temp. It clicks in an out around the temps of 62C and 56C. It kind or reminds me of an old radiator warming up and cooling off. I took the cover off yesterday and checked the nut that holds the transformer in place. I thought maybe that spring washer might be a little loose but it wasn't. Anyone else ever notice this? Hopefully it is not a serious problem. Thanks __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 to KAT500
Yes - you may be onto something indeed! Have you ever watched a frequency counter while speaking on SSB? As the KAT500 measures the frequency you are transmitting on to determine what tuning memory to go use - this may well be the problem. Mid QSO, the frequency counter determines you are now transmitting on a new frequency and the tuner goes nuts. This may be experienced more by some operators than others - due, in part, to their particular voice characteristics. CW would enter no variables for the frequency counter to misinterpret. For whatever reason it fails, the tuner and amp are of no use to me - hence, I am happily running 100 Watts using the infallible KAT3 internal antenna tuner. It is quiet, fast, and has never failed me. I am heard where I want to be, some saying there is little to no difference without the 500 Watt amp. These are the folks I QSO with every day - so those reports count. The expensive tuner and amp may well be headed down the road - factory built and six months old - I am not pleased. Will I purchase a replacement amp and tuner? I really do not know. The jury is out and no decisions have been made about any changes yet. Bill W2BLC K-Line(???) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 14:27:59 -0600, Dave Perry wrote: Steve, My KPA500 also has the clicks and pops as it heats up and expands. I'm rather curious about this clicking people are talking about. I have SN 1255 and have heard none of what is being described. I've purposely heated it from cool to in the 70s where the fan kicks into warp speed. At first I was ready to jump in with my clicking experience, but it was true clicking, not ticking that others seem to be describing. My clicking experience was rather short lived and I attributed it to a poor RF situation with my six meter antenna. For a short time, I would sometimes get a relay click and rather high VSWR indicated when on six. I replaced a few jumper cables and all was well again, including the output of the KPA. It got even better when I got that Mother's Fine Junque tuner out of the circuit and installed the KAP. It's nice to see just about the same reflected in both units now on the lower bands. Before, I could get the tuner to show zero reflected, but the amp didn't. Sometimes I would slightly off-tune the tuner to get the amp down better. Don't get me wrong. All readings were under 1.5:1. Anyway, I sure haven't heard any heatsink ticking at all, even when it was brand new. Just another person's experience for reference. Gary - AG0N -- http://ag0n.net 3055: http://ag0n.net/irlp/3055 NodeOp Help Page: http://ag0n.net/irlp __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
Please post here if Elecraft confirms they have a fix for this. 73 de Sebastian, W4AS On Jan 27, 2014, at 3:54 PM, Steve AI9T st...@ai9t.com wrote: Hi Dave I didn't know that Elecraft had a fix for this. I will send Tech Support an email and ask them about it. My Amp is fairly new. I built the kit last May. The serial number is 1469. -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/27/2014 3:27 PM, Dave Perry wrote: Steve, My KPA500 also has the clicks and pops as it heats up and expands. As I recall, Elecraft offers a fix for this. The fix involves replacing the metal screws that fasten the heat sink to the chassis. They had to go with a larger screw to obtain a tighter hold on the bracket for the heat sink. I assume this has been fixed in newer models. My serial number is in the low 200s. I have never bothered to install this fix, but the clicks do get annoying at times. Is this fix still available? I would think that you can search the archives for a discussion on this topic right after the amp came out. 73, Dave, N4QS -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve AI9T Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 1:05 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks Thanks for all the comments on the KPA500 Clicks. Looks like I'm not the only one that has noticed it. I guess I won't worry about it. I have had the AMP for a few months now and have been very satisfied with it so far. Thanks again! -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/26/2014 3:03 PM, Steve AI9T wrote: During a couple recent RTTY contest I have noticed that my KPA500 is making a noise. It kind of sounds like a relay clicking in and out. When I first noticed it I thought it was a fan relay or something to do with the fan. But after hearing this longer it seems to be related to the temp. It clicks in an out around the temps of 62C and 56C. It kind or reminds me of an old radiator warming up and cooling off. I took the cover off yesterday and checked the nut that holds the transformer in place. I thought maybe that spring washer might be a little loose but it wasn't. Anyone else ever notice this? Hopefully it is not a serious problem. Thanks __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3: Begali Expedition Paddle Like New; Nice Match for K3
The Begali Expedition Paddle has been sold pending receipt of funds. I will inform if the deal does not complete. Thanks to all who inquired. 73 de N1LQ-Dave __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K2 Line Out Mods
Hello All. I’m a newbie here and about to embark on building a K2. One of the many uses I have planned for the radio is to send emails over Winlink 2000 while at sea on a sailboat. I'd like to communicate with the SignaLink USB sound card through Winmor first and then eventually with a PACTOR 3 or 4 modem. I was thinking of building the fixed audio out designed by W3FPR NØSS. My plan is to fabricate a pcb using the laser printer transfer method. I have recreated NØSS’s layout as a printable pdf (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_D41ceK5uSqM3VGa05BWXBhYkE/edit?usp=sharing), and am thinking I’ll run the line out to pin 5 of the 8-pin mic connection so I can have a single cable between the K2 and the SignaLink. My question is where is the best point in the K2 to source the AF inputs from? Is it cleaner to tap into the control board as is illustrated by W3FPR’s great instructions (http://www2.opparc.org/mirrors/n0ss/www.n0ss.net/w3fpr_fixed_af_output_for_the_k2_v2r1.pdf), or would it be a better signal if I tap into the KDSP2 board as recommended by EA3BLQ (http://www.qsl.net/ea3blq/downloads/k2di-pci_const_manual.pdf) for his Sound Card Interface? And is this the best way to get a line out from the K2, or has there been any newer advancements along those lines? I realize that I’m building a legacy product here, but from the activity I’ve seen on this mailing list, it’s definitely not dead yet. Thanks - Sean (working on the call sign) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Line Out Mods
Sean, The circuit is simple enough to build on perfboard if you don't want to go to the trouble of making a board. If you do make boards, you might want to consider making additional board and offering them for sale. There are occasional requests for those boards. Build the version which lays the components flat on the board and attach it to the back of the Control Board. That way everything except the audio output is on the Control Board making the Control Board easy to remove for servicing - plus it fits easily when the KPA100 is installed. For the output connection, yes an unused microphone pin is an ideal place (for the Elecraft microphones, use pin 5). Use a wire that is an adequate length to allow the Control Board to be removed sufficiently that you can reach the microphone configuration header on the back of the Front Panel. You can solder the audio output wire to one of the 'computer' type jumpers that will plug right into the microphone configuration header - make certain the 'jumper' is plugged only into the side that is closest to the microphone jack. The only difference between Pauli's (SK) AF take off point and the one I used is that Pauli's is prior to the muting transistors in the K2 and my points are after the muting transistors. If you prefer that the AF not be muted during TX, then you can still attach to the back of the Control Board at the rear of CB J2 pins 1 and 2 - and is quite independent of the KDSP2 (or KAF2) option. I might add that Pauli did buy one of my boards - I asked him Why since he had a wonderful interface already, and he replied that my Fixed Audio Output board was an easy and simple solution. Good luck on getting that license. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 6:08 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote: Hello All. I’m a newbie here and about to embark on building a K2. One of the many uses I have planned for the radio is to send emails over Winlink 2000 while at sea on a sailboat. I'd like to communicate with the SignaLink USB sound card through Winmor first and then eventually with a PACTOR 3 or 4 modem. I was thinking of building the fixed audio out designed by W3FPR NØSS. My plan is to fabricate a pcb using the laser printer transfer method. I have recreated NØSS’s layout as a printable pdf (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_D41ceK5uSqM3VGa05BWXBhYkE/edit?usp=sharing), and am thinking I’ll run the line out to pin 5 of the 8-pin mic connection so I can have a single cable between the K2 and the SignaLink. My question is where is the best point in the K2 to source the AF inputs from? Is it cleaner to tap into the control board as is illustrated by W3FPR’s great instructions (http://www2.opparc.org/mirrors/n0ss/www.n0ss.net/w3fpr_fixed_af_output_for_the_k2_v2r1.pdf), or would it be a better signal if I tap into the KDSP2 board as recommended by EA3BLQ (http://www.qsl.net/ea3blq/downloads/k2di-pci_const_manual.pdf) for his Sound Card Interface? And is this the best way to get a line out from the K2, or has there been any newer advancements along those lines? I realize that I’m building a legacy product here, but from the activity I’ve seen on this mailing list, it’s definitely not dead yet. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks
I sent an email to Elecraft support; an errata to the owner’s manual now specifically mentions this issue: During heavy use, you may hear audible clicking sounds, particularly as the amplifier components cool down. This is normal. It does not indicate that the amplifier is being overly stressed.” The errata can be found here: http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740150E KPA500 Owner's Manual Errata C4-2.pdf 73 de Sebastian, W4AS On Jan 27, 2014, at 3:54 PM, Steve AI9T st...@ai9t.com wrote: Hi Dave I didn't know that Elecraft had a fix for this. I will send Tech Support an email and ask them about it. My Amp is fairly new. I built the kit last May. The serial number is 1469. -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/27/2014 3:27 PM, Dave Perry wrote: Steve, My KPA500 also has the clicks and pops as it heats up and expands. As I recall, Elecraft offers a fix for this. The fix involves replacing the metal screws that fasten the heat sink to the chassis. They had to go with a larger screw to obtain a tighter hold on the bracket for the heat sink. I assume this has been fixed in newer models. My serial number is in the low 200s. I have never bothered to install this fix, but the clicks do get annoying at times. Is this fix still available? I would think that you can search the archives for a discussion on this topic right after the amp came out. 73, Dave, N4QS -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Steve AI9T Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 1:05 PM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 Clicks Thanks for all the comments on the KPA500 Clicks. Looks like I'm not the only one that has noticed it. I guess I won't worry about it. I have had the AMP for a few months now and have been very satisfied with it so far. Thanks again! -- 73 Steve AI9T http://www.ai9t.com AI9T DX Cluster Version 4 AI9T Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7300 Version 6 AI9T-2 Telnet: dxc.ai9t.com port 7373 (CW + Skimmer) On 1/26/2014 3:03 PM, Steve AI9T wrote: During a couple recent RTTY contest I have noticed that my KPA500 is making a noise. It kind of sounds like a relay clicking in and out. When I first noticed it I thought it was a fan relay or something to do with the fan. But after hearing this longer it seems to be related to the temp. It clicks in an out around the temps of 62C and 56C. It kind or reminds me of an old radiator warming up and cooling off. I took the cover off yesterday and checked the nut that holds the transformer in place. I thought maybe that spring washer might be a little loose but it wasn't. Anyone else ever notice this? Hopefully it is not a serious problem. Thanks __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 legacy product
Sean, You may be building a legacy product, but let me assure you that the K2 will be supported by Elecraft as long as it is feasible. The major problem is vanishing parts. For example, the fine K2 encoder was discontinued, but the Elecraft design team stepped up to the challenge and developed a daughterboard for the encoder used in the K3 in order to support the K2 for both new builds and repairs. Similarly, the Speech Compressor IC used on the KSB2 board became unobtainable, so the KSB2 board was redesigned to use an alternative. A few years ago, the IF amplifier used in the K2 was no longer available in DIP format, so Elecraft designed a carrier for the SMD version so builders (and those doing repairs) could have an easily usable alternative. There are some ICs that have been discontinued, and Elecraft bought a lifetime supply, so the only source for those ICs is now Elecraft. A lot of work has gone into efforts to keep the K2 alive and repairable. There may be an end to that capability someday, but it is not in the near future. I also should say that component failure is not the most common cause of K2 failures, but poor solder connections are top of the list, both for new builds and older K2s. A bad solder connection can work fine for years before it develops enough oxidation to fail. Since I repair/upgrade/build 3 to 4 K2, K1 and KX1s each week, I can make that statement with confidence - I have seen it many, many times. Bottom line, if a K2 works right after 90 days, it should be solid for a long time to come unless it is abused in some way - such as leaving the antenna connected when not in use. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 6:08 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote: I realize that I’m building a legacy product here, but from the activity I’ve seen on this mailing list, it’s definitely not dead yet. Thanks - Sean (working on the call sign) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Astatic D-104 Microphone
All, I recently was given an Astatic D-104 mic. I have not opened the mic yet and it has been modified with a ptt switch. I assume to lock the mic in transmit without holding the grip. I have the pin out for the K3 connector but I was wondering if anyone has used this mic. If so, what were the wire colors to the 8 pin K3 connector. TIA Dale K3SEN Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] New K2 owner this week!
Thank you Don - And thanks to everyone else who emailed me directly with lots of great advice! -- Warren Warren and all, I have been informed by a couple folks that I did not read the post as well as I should have, and you are dealing with a K2. The answer is similar, go through the manual - if it is not provided, you can download it. For the K2, you can skip the Assembly sections, but go through the three Alignment and Test sections because that is where you will gain familiarity with the K2. Do the same for each installed option. If you do not have the option manuals, download them from the Elecraft website. There is no K2 Utility, and you cannot save a configuration file, but you might want to record the menu settings. If so, download the K2 A to B Upgrade instructions - the first few pages contain nice charts for manually recording those settings. With that serial number, your K2 is entirely up to date, so no updates are necessary. 73, Don W3FPR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Astatic D-104 Microphone
On Mon, Jan 27, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: The D-104 is still a great microphone when adapted to modern low impedance rigs. Each time this subject comes up, I say the same thing, and it is true. Old D-104s, crystal or cermanic, do not need any adaptation to the K3. I have used my classic crystal D-104 as-is with the K3. On-the-air checks with audio maestro K9YC confirm that it gives outstanding audio. As Don, suggests just be careful with gain settings. Try it for yourself without the FET amplifier. 73, Hank, W6SX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Astatic D-104 Microphone
My favorite is the D-104 base with the Astatic 10-DA dynamic head. Sounds very nice. Brian KB1VBF Sent from my iPad On Jan 28, 2014, at 12:49 AM, Hank Garretson w...@arrl.net wrote: On Mon, Jan 27, 2014 at 5:29 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: The D-104 is still a great microphone when adapted to modern low impedance rigs. Each time this subject comes up, I say the same thing, and it is true. Old D-104s, crystal or cermanic, do not need any adaptation to the K3. I have used my classic crystal D-104 as-is with the K3. On-the-air checks with audio maestro K9YC confirm that it gives outstanding audio. As Don, suggests just be careful with gain settings. Try it for yourself without the FET amplifier. 73, Hank, W6SX __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
