Re: [Elecraft] No CW Side tone or MON with headset
Does your headset have a stereo plug? - 73, Stan - KR7C -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/No-CW-Side-tone-or-MON-with-headset-tp7583466p7583469.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Would anyone like to see an all-mode VHF/UHF offering from Elecraft?
A friend on another list came up with the idea of an all-mode transceiver for 2m and above. It would be especially nice to see coverage of 1.25m, and possibly 70cm, 33 cm and 23 cm. If such support for 1.25m, especially, is forthcoming, it looks like an American manufacturer would be the best candidate, since that band is authorized only in Region 2. The only offerings from the JA manufacturers for 1.25m are FM-only, thus far. We know that the designers and engineers at Elecraft are up to it, since they offer transverter kits up through 70cm. Whether it would be economical to bring it to market is another question. It would be perfect for Technician-class hams, if they could be convinced that there's more out there than the repeaters. Opinions? 73 de Jim - AD6CW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Tiny reminder
Could we all remember to put the Elecraft product ID in the subject of our messages? A lot of us filter on those. I don't have an Elecraft wattmeter, and I doubt I ever will so a W2 helps me get rid of those. More importantly, a subject of "Lost Sidetone" strongly suggests K2, but could be a K3 with the MON level at zero. Just put the primary product/products in the subject somewhere. Most put them at the beginning. Thanks a bunch 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] No CW Side tone or MON with headset
Got a new K3 and everything appears to be working fine except I have no CW side tone in the headset. When I unplug the headset then I hear the side tone. Same situation with setting the MON level. What parameter do I need to set to correct this issue? Thanks for the help. Randy, AA8R __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] KXPA100 shipping status page update
We've just updated the shipping status page at http://www.elecraft.com/elecraft_shipping_status.htm with the following KXPA100 information: --- New KXPA100 orders should now ship within 3 weeks after order. The following dates reflect California PDT (GMT-7) times: We are now notifying assembled and kit KXPA100 orders received up through the first week of December that they are ready to ship in 1-5 days. Also please note that orders for KXPA100s without the ATU are built in different manufacturing runs from the KXPA100s with internal ATU. As a result, non-ATU orders may be notified 1-5 days later than the dates listed above. Note: We notify all KXPA100 back-orders via email prior to shipment for confirmation of shipping and billing information. It is possible that our email has been caught by your spam filter or we may have an incorrect email for you. As a result, if you have ordered within the dates (GMT-7) above and have not been contacted by us, please email sa...@elecraft.com and we will quickly take care of you. --- 73, Eric elecraft.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2-100 Test and Alignment Issues
Bill, Regarding T4, there is one other possibility that I did not mention before. If the direction of the windings is not as shown in the manual, it will work "backwards" which may be what you are observing. As for the minimum voltage of 1.4 volts, that is WAY too high. The bridge should null to less than 14 millivolts with 15 or 20 watts flowing through it. You could do a sanity check on it by attempting to null the bridge by monitoring the DC voltage at U5 pin 3 rather than U5 pin 1. The voltage on U5 pin 1 should be the same as at pin 3 if U5 is working OK. If you still have a high voltage at U5 pin 3, then try doing the balance (nulling) while monitoring U5 pin 5. If you can obtain a null at U5 pin 5, then for certain T4 is wound in the wrong direction. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/30/2014 4:39 PM, William Moore wrote: Don and John, Thank you so much for coming to my aid with these baffling (to me) problems. I have undertaken both your suggestions but still, unfortunately, no joy. The J3+ issue The J3+ lead now gives a voltage reading of -0.225 volts while covering the PA transistors with a thick cardboard and a mostly darkened room. I can also confirm, absolutely, that no 13.8 volt current has ever passed through J3 or the Aux 12 volt line to the K2. The Wattmeter issue. I reset R26 and 27 to 43K and tried once again to balance the wattmeter with C1. Twisting C1 with a plastic handled screw driver, I got the voltage at Test Point 4 down to 1.4 volts but I am not sure if that is what you mean by "close to 0.0 volts". At the same time, glancing at the K2 LCD it still shows a 9.9::1 swr and the watt meter on my Kenwood AT-200 antenna tuner bypassed to a dummy load indicates the K2 is pumping out a full 15 watts. Varying C1 while looking only at the K2 LCD, I can get 1.0::1 SWR but the power out on the LCD registers 0.1 watts while the AT-200 wattmeter says the K2 is still pushing 15 watts to the dummy load. Varying C1 does not change the 15 watt output on the KAT200 watt metre. It always remains at a constant 15 watts. I then disassembled the KPA-100 circuit board from the heatsink. I checked that all the components you listed were the correct values and oriented properly i.e., D16 and D17. I checked the solder joints until my eyes crossed with a lamp having a magnifying lens in the centre of the fluorescent bulb. I found no solder bridges, unsoldered leads or poorly soldered solder pads. I thinks John's problem that he referred to in his post was a solder bridge between R24 and R26 but I found this junction was clean of any hint of a solder bridge. I found no protruding grounding leads anywhere. I am quite sure but, not absolutely sure, that T4 is wound (12 turns twisted wire counted inside the core), wired and soldered correctly with no leads shorting. The T4 solder pads are full with bright silvery solder, no craters and the solder flows through the holes to the top of the circuit board. The only variable that I can see left is to pull T4, rewind and reinstall. However, before I do this, is there any other measurements, checks or procedures that I have overlooked or new ones that can be suggested? My career background is in the field of business and economics so I kind of feel like I am an auto mechanic trying to diagnose and perform surgery on a complex cardiology problem. That is to say, I really appreciate your help. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] [K2] K2-100 Test and Alignment Issues
Don and John, Thank you so much for coming to my aid with these baffling (to me) problems. I have undertaken both your suggestions but still, unfortunately, no joy. The J3+ issue The J3+ lead now gives a voltage reading of -0.225 volts while covering the PA transistors with a thick cardboard and a mostly darkened room. I can also confirm, absolutely, that no 13.8 volt current has ever passed through J3 or the Aux 12 volt line to the K2. The Wattmeter issue. I reset R26 and 27 to 43K and tried once again to balance the wattmeter with C1. Twisting C1 with a plastic handled screw driver, I got the voltage at Test Point 4 down to 1.4 volts but I am not sure if that is what you mean by "close to 0.0 volts". At the same time, glancing at the K2 LCD it still shows a 9.9::1 swr and the watt meter on my Kenwood AT-200 antenna tuner bypassed to a dummy load indicates the K2 is pumping out a full 15 watts. Varying C1 while looking only at the K2 LCD, I can get 1.0::1 SWR but the power out on the LCD registers 0.1 watts while the AT-200 wattmeter says the K2 is still pushing 15 watts to the dummy load. Varying C1 does not change the 15 watt output on the KAT200 watt metre. It always remains at a constant 15 watts. I then disassembled the KPA-100 circuit board from the heatsink. I checked that all the components you listed were the correct values and oriented properly i.e., D16 and D17. I checked the solder joints until my eyes crossed with a lamp having a magnifying lens in the centre of the fluorescent bulb. I found no solder bridges, unsoldered leads or poorly soldered solder pads. I thinks John's problem that he referred to in his post was a solder bridge between R24 and R26 but I found this junction was clean of any hint of a solder bridge. I found no protruding grounding leads anywhere. I am quite sure but, not absolutely sure, that T4 is wound (12 turns twisted wire counted inside the core), wired and soldered correctly with no leads shorting. The T4 solder pads are full with bright silvery solder, no craters and the solder flows through the holes to the top of the circuit board. The only variable that I can see left is to pull T4, rewind and reinstall. However, before I do this, is there any other measurements, checks or procedures that I have overlooked or new ones that can be suggested? My career background is in the field of business and economics so I kind of feel like I am an auto mechanic trying to diagnose and perform surgery on a complex cardiology problem. That is to say, I really appreciate your help. 73 Bill, VE2WMA -Original Message- From: Don Wilhelm [mailto:w3...@embarqmail.com] Sent: Monday, January 27, 2014 2:58 PM To: William Moore; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [K2} K2-100 Test and Alignment Issues Bill, For the J3+ lead, I think the PA transistors may be producing that voltage in response to light shining on them. Shield the transistors from light and see if the voltage changes - if so, ignore it. As for the C1 adjustment - do the following steps in order. Preset R26 and R27 to about mid-range. If you want a closer setting, measure the resistance to ground from the center pin on the pot and set it close to 43k - you can measure from U5 pin 3 and pin 5 for easier access than the actual potentiometer. Balance the wattmeter by adjusting C1 - monitor the voltage at TP4 while sending 40 meter power through the wattmeter. You should be able to obtain a very near zero voltage if all is well. If you cannot obtain a very low voltage, there is a problem with one or more of the following: T4, D16, D17, R28, R29, C95 or C1. Check the windings of T4 first to be certain the correct leads are in the right holes and have been well stripped and tinned (if there is any question, rewind T4 with new wire). Then check the orientation of D16 and D17 against the parts placement diagram at the back of the manual. Be certain all the parts I mentioned are well soldered and there are no solder bridges. T4 does have a 3rd winding, and that is the red wire from the center of the SO-239 jack to the board for T4-6 and the bare wire from the center of the SO-239 to the board hole marked T4-5. Be certain the bare wire is not touching the shell of the SO-239 and was trimmed so it is not grounding against the heatsink. Once you have achieved the balance point for C1, do not change its position. Adjust R26 during a TUNE to indicate the same power on the K2 display as you read on your external wattmeter. Then adjust R27 to the same position as R26 unless you have a load which can produce a known SWR below 2.0:1, in which case you can use that load and adjust R27 until the K2 shows that known SWR. You can initially set R26 and R27 with the low power from the base K2 (do not connect the APP power cable). Later you may want to refine the R26 setting using 80 or 100 watts. Let us know how you make out. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2014 2:02 PM, William Moore wrote: > I am now i
Re: [Elecraft] K3 : Unstable output power in DATA A mode
then using the K3 in DATA A mode this often is caused by incorrect audio levels the k3's audio level should show 4 bars with the 5th bar flickering I have run my K3 with the 5th bar solid and it still worked ok the power out level is set by the K3's PWR knob most other rigs have a different way of setting this up doing it 'their way' on a K3 results with the varying power levels you are seeing On 1/30/2014 2:37 PM, Keith Onishi wrote: Output power of my K3/100, SN 79xx, without KAT3 is very unstable in DATA A mode. The symptom is; 1. With setting 100W output on 14MHz and 10MHz, I get 100W output for a couple of seconds, then suddenly the output goes down to 10W or so. 2. On 7MHz and below, the output power never go up to 100W with setting 100W output. 3. With setting around 20W output, actual output sometimes stay around 10W. Upon holding TUNE button a couple of seconds, the output goes up to desired level. I guessed this might be caused by RF interfere. However, checking with dummy road gave the same results. These happen only in DATA A mode (I have not tried in AFSK A mode). I got stable 100W and a little up in FSK D and PSK D as well as CW. (I have not tried SSB yet.) I manually made Transmitter Gain calibration without error since K3Utility calibration capability does not work with K3 with 60m disabled for Japan use. Any thought on this problem? 73 de JH3SIF, Keith -- GB & 73 K5OAI Sam Morgan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K3 : Unstable output power in DATA A mode
Keith, Have you adjusted your audio input to produce 4 bars solid on the ALC meter with the 5th bar flashing? If not, please do so - you can do that with the K3 in TX TEST mode so no signal is transmitted. After you set the audio level correctly, then adjust the power knob to the desired power level. I know this is different than the normal way other transceivers are driven for data modes, but the K3 controls power differently than other transceivers and the audio level must first be set as indicated and the power controlled with the power knob. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/30/2014 3:37 PM, Keith Onishi wrote: Output power of my K3/100, SN 79xx, without KAT3 is very unstable in DATA A mode. The symptom is; 1. With setting 100W output on 14MHz and 10MHz, I get 100W output for a couple of seconds, then suddenly the output goes down to 10W or so. 2. On 7MHz and below, the output power never go up to 100W with setting 100W output. 3. With setting around 20W output, actual output sometimes stay around 10W. Upon holding TUNE button a couple of seconds, the output goes up to desired level. I guessed this might be caused by RF interfere. However, checking with dummy road gave the same results. These happen only in DATA A mode (I have not tried in AFSK A mode). I got stable 100W and a little up in FSK D and PSK D as well as CW. (I have not tried SSB yet.) I manually made Transmitter Gain calibration without error since K3Utility calibration capability does not work with K3 with 60m disabled for Japan use. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] FS: PR6 6m preamp
I have replaced my PR6 with the PR6-10 and it is now surplus to my needs. I am asking $110 and I will ship within USA. Outside USA at actual cost. PayPal preferred. Jim/N1NK __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] K3 : Unstable output power in DATA A mode
Output power of my K3/100, SN 79xx, without KAT3 is very unstable in DATA A mode. The symptom is; 1. With setting 100W output on 14MHz and 10MHz, I get 100W output for a couple of seconds, then suddenly the output goes down to 10W or so. 2. On 7MHz and below, the output power never go up to 100W with setting 100W output. 3. With setting around 20W output, actual output sometimes stay around 10W. Upon holding TUNE button a couple of seconds, the output goes up to desired level. I guessed this might be caused by RF interfere. However, checking with dummy road gave the same results. These happen only in DATA A mode (I have not tried in AFSK A mode). I got stable 100W and a little up in FSK D and PSK D as well as CW. (I have not tried SSB yet.) I manually made Transmitter Gain calibration without error since K3Utility calibration capability does not work with K3 with 60m disabled for Japan use. Any thought on this problem? 73 de JH3SIF, Keith __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] making an MP3 file
On 1/30/2014 11:12 AM, todd ruby wrote: Can anyone assist me on how to take a off air recorded signal that’s on the K3’s DVR and convert it into an MP3 file that I could email? Connect LINE OUT to the LINE IN on a computer, fire up a recorder [I use RecAll, but one of the free audio editors like Audacity would work fine], and play the recording out of the K3? It's worked for me. 73, Fred K6DGW - Northern California Contest Club - CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014 - www.cqp.org __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] making an MP3 file
Can anyone assist me on how to take a off air recorded signal that’s on the K3’s DVR and convert it into an MP3 file that I could email? thanks in advance todd WB2ZAB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Line Out Mods
I have revised the original file - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_D41ceK5uSqM3VGa05BWXBhYkE/edit?usp=sharing And I added a couple layouts for anyone wanting to make a series of these on a 6x9 sheet of copper clad - 2 files(front and back) - https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_D41ceK5uSqRUNIeUZ4eGs4cUU/edit?usp=sharing https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_D41ceK5uSqeHJ0YXd4YXh4Z1U/edit?usp=sharing - 73 - Sean On Jan 29, 2014, at 6:29 PM, Kevin Crossett wrote: > Hi Sean. I am looking forward to seeing the revised layout. I did something > similar several months ago, but my layout skills using pcbexpress were not > nearly as clean and sharp as your board. In the end, my transfer method using > an clothes iron left a lot to be desired. I also wasted a lot of copper clad > board working on the design. Not having an electronics background did not > help the situation either. Don helped me figure out a few things I was doing > wrong. Nonetheless, I continued trudging forward, and managed to learn > something in the process. Since that first experience with board > construction, I purchased a laminator off Amazon that works great. I have a > board ready to use for a xtal test fixture from Chuck Adam's, K7QO lab > notebook, but I have not had time to build it yet ... too many other projects > ahead of it, including a great transmitter from GQRP that uses a similar > construction technique as the xtal fixture (muppet or limerick construction > depending on who is speaking). That rig is on the bench now, and as soon as I > can get into the workshop, I plan to start making some solder smoke. > > > > > On Wed, Jan 29, 2014 at 3:37 PM, s...@seanmichaeljohnston.com > wrote: > Dhoh! > > I'll post up a revised version with the OUT label corrected. Thanks for > letting me know. > It's good to know that it works. > > - Sean > > On Jan 29, 2014, at 1:21 PM, Kevin Crossett wrote: > >> I have been messing about with this board for a while, but have not had >> success hooking it up the rig yet. I downloaded the schematic that Sean >> produced ... nice job ... and made up a board using the laser toner method >> described by K7QO. I did see one small issue with the board. The OUT label >> is actually labeled GND ... a minor oversight. Otherwise the board looks FB. >> >> Two questions about using pin 5 from the microphone header ... >> >> Is the ground from the audio out board still used? If so, where does it >> connect? >> >> Also, while I don't use a mic (CW only at this point), if I attach the audio >> out to pin 5, can I still plug in an Elecraft-wired mic without unplugging >> the audio out connector from the header? >> >> Thanks for any insight... >> >> Kevin >> KK4LSG >> >> >> On Mon, Jan 27, 2014 at 6:51 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: >> Sean, >> >> The circuit is simple enough to build on perfboard if you don't want to go >> to the trouble of making a board. If you do make boards, you might want to >> consider making additional board and offering them for sale. There are >> occasional requests for those boards. >> >> Build the version which lays the components flat on the board and attach it >> to the back of the Control Board. That way everything except the audio >> output is on the Control Board making the Control Board easy to remove for >> servicing - plus it fits easily when the KPA100 is installed. For the >> output connection, yes an unused microphone pin is an ideal place (for the >> Elecraft microphones, use pin 5). Use a wire that is an adequate length to >> allow the Control Board to be removed sufficiently that you can reach the >> microphone configuration header on the back of the Front Panel. You can >> solder the audio output wire to one of the 'computer' type jumpers that will >> plug right into the microphone configuration header - make certain the >> 'jumper' is plugged only into the side that is closest to the microphone >> jack. >> >> The only difference between Pauli's (SK) AF take off point and the one I >> used is that Pauli's is prior to the muting transistors in the K2 and my >> points are after the muting transistors. >> If you prefer that the AF not be muted during TX, then you can still attach >> to the back of the Control Board at the rear of CB J2 pins 1 and 2 - and is >> quite independent of the KDSP2 (or KAF2) option. >> >> I might add that Pauli did buy one of my boards - I asked him "Why since he >> had a wonderful interface already", and he replied that my Fixed Audio >> Output board was an easy and simple solution. >> >> Good luck on getting that license. >> >> 73, >> Don W3FPR >> >> >> On 1/27/2014 6:08 PM, Sean Michael Johnston wrote: >> Hello All. >> >> I’m a newbie here and about to embark on building a K2. One of the many uses >> I have planned for the radio is to send emails over Winlink 2000 while at >> sea on a sailboat. >> I'd like to communicate with the SignaLink USB sound card through Winmor
Re: [Elecraft] K3 kit complete
I should have mentioned that the kit I completed is a K3. I’m still working on configuring it. I’m currently getting an error on power up (KAT3). I have an email into support. Carl Yaffey K8NU Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. recording studio. cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 614 268 6353, Columbus OH http://www.carl-yaffey.com http://www.grassahol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] Kit completed
Except for putting in the 100w amp, I’ve finally completed the kit. Whew! It was harder than I thought. I’m 72 and my fingers no longer have the dexterity they once had. But I got it done! The hardest part: Installing the KREF3 board (page 48). I dang near had a heart attack! Hi hi. Thanks for the advice and encouragement from many of you. 73, Carl Yaffey K8NU Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. recording studio. cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 614 268 6353, Columbus OH http://www.carl-yaffey.com http://www.grassahol.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] OT: Wanted Vibroplex Blue Racer bug
Found one -- Thanks. Jim - W0EB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
