Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Utility on Mac - Sound Card for DATA A - no output

[Thorpe, Jeffrey]

I went back through the entire chapter and re-read it (as opposed to 
mis-reading it).
Now I get it. Thanks for clearing me up Don.

73,
Jeff - KG7HDZ



> On May 2, 2014, at 5:53 PM, "Don Wilhelm"  wrote:
> 
> Jeff,
> 
> The KX3 Utility program is not intended to put out any sound (on any OS 
> platform).  I am not certain where you found information that is does.
> 
> The path for sound from Fldigi is quite different.  Fldigi is "sort of" an 
> SDR application in that it takes the bandpass of the input audio and can pass 
> that audio along to the computer soundcard if that is enabled.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/2/2014 8:35 PM, Thorpe, Jeffrey wrote:
>> I tried following the directions in KE7X’s book (7.5.2) to try and get a 
>> handle on how all this works, but ran into an odd problem - the KX3 utility 
>> program doesn’t seem to put out any sound. I unplugged the cable from the 
>> headphone/line out jack on my Macbook Pro and it was completely silent. 
>> Didn’t matter if it was CW, RTTY or PSK31. I then tried it on Fldigi and 
>> that program would output sound just fine. If I disconnect the USB/RS232 
>> cable, then the Utility program does nothing.
>> 
>> So, is there a known problem with the Utility on Mac, or am I likely doing 
>> something wrong?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Better fingerpieces for the Vibroplex Vibrocube?

[Jim Lowman]

Thanks, Dick, but you're talking to a guy who barely got a "C" in metal 
shop in 8th grade many years ago.  :-)


73 de Jim - AD6CW

On 5/2/2014 6:06 PM, Richard Solomon wrote:

I made a new pair from the remnants of a traffic sign. Had them
Chrome plated. They look very nice and don't bend.

73, Dick, W1KSZ


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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

[Phil Wheeler]

Another vote of appreciation for Fred's heat sink. 
I've not done any tests as yet, but I looked at 
Dave's results and know it will meet my wants and 
needs for digital modes where duty cycle can be 
high. A classy design which looks and works well 
on my KX3.It meets all my criteria for adding 
cooling to the KX3:


 * Is cosmetically attractive (in the black
   finish); and if anything adds to the rig's
   appearance
 * Does not require any mods to the basic KX3
   (like drilling more holes or removing the
   speaker)
 * Requires no additional power supplies (to
   power a fan)
 * Is very easy to install
 * Allows the KX3 to be returned to its original
   state with a minimum of effort, should that
   need arise.

Same disclaimer as Dave!

Phil w7ox

On 5/2/14, 5:05 PM, Dave G. wrote:

FWIW... I thought I'd mention this..

I bought my KX3 heat sink from Fred Meier VE7FM a while ago.
It is a very well machined precision product and fits beautifully,
everything lined up perfectly - and it took me less than 10 minutes to
install.
I chose the micro bead blasted finish to increase the effective
radiating area. (at least that's what I figured - I'm probably wrong!)

It weighs about 8oz and I measured/calculated that it had a total
dissipating area of just over 42 sq ins.

The transaction was very easy and the delivery was very fast.

I posted the list with my before and after results of temperatures
reached for key-down continuous output transmissions at various power
levels for a 5 minute duration at each power level into a dummy load.

I had no temp induced shutdowns during my tests with that heat sink fitted..
I've been using it for several months now with no problems.

If you look in the pictures folder, under my callsign, you can see
before and after images of it fitted to my KX3
I also posted the before and after indicated temps to the list (a while back!)

I do know that Fred is willing and able to ship worldwide from Canada,
in fact,  to anywhere in the world that has PayPal or a bank draft.
For my order I used PayPal.

Usual Disclaimer: I have no financial or other interests in Fred's
products other than being a very satisfied customer.

73 de

Dave G.KK7SS
Richland, WA.


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Re: [Elecraft] Better fingerpieces for the Vibroplex Vibrocube?

[Richard Solomon]

I made a new pair from the remnants of a traffic sign. Had them
Chrome plated. They look very nice and don't bend.

73, Dick, W1KSZ


On 5/2/2014 5:58 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:
I like this paddle, but the fingerpieces seem a bit too thin and have 
some "give" to them.


Does anyone know of a third-party that makes more sturdy plastic, or 
wood replacements?


Thanks in advance and 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
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[Elecraft] Better fingerpieces for the Vibroplex Vibrocube?

[Jim Lowman]

I like this paddle, but the fingerpieces seem a bit too thin and have 
some "give" to them.


Does anyone know of a third-party that makes more sturdy plastic, or 
wood replacements?


Thanks in advance and 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
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Re: [Elecraft] Triggering KPA500 from 2 Radios

[d...@lightstream.net]

Hi David,

I've been doing this for at least a year, and it works fine. However, I
always leave the K3 powered ON when I'm using the other radios, and I can
switch between radios by switching only the coaxial switch. I just tried
turning OFF the K3 while trying to drive the amp from the KX3, and I see
the rx signal level on the KX3 drops, just as you stated. Turn the K3 back
on, and the signal level returns to normal, and the KX3 drives the KPA500
to around the 150 to 200 watt range. I currently have the KX3 and K2/100
set up with the K3 this way, and all work well.

I haven't experienced any adverse side-effects in doing this, and none of
the radios involved have lost any of their smoke.

73, Dale
WA8SRA



> I have been using my K3/KPA500 setup for quite sometime.  I am using the
> standard cable between the K3 ACC port and the KPA500 AUX for
> communications
> between the radio and the amp.  This has worked perfectly from the
> beginning.  At some time in the past, I wanted to use my Yaesu MKV Field
> to
> excite the amp.  I connected both radios tho the KPA500 through a
> 2-position
> coax switch.  I also connect a cable from the MKV  to the KPA PA. KEY
> jack.
> When I switched the amp from standby to operate, there was a huge
> attenuation of the MKV's received signal.  When I unplugged the K3-KPA AUX
> cable the problem went away.  The received signal level was fine and the
> amp
> produced +/-500 watts with about 40 watts of drive from the MKV.  An
> earlier
> message on the reflector indicated that this signal attenuation with the
> AUX
> cable connected was likely due to voltage signals on the AUX lines.  I
> remove the MKV from the system and forgot about.
>
> Well, I've rearranged my operating desk and would like to use the MKV a
> little; I sure do like operating "the old monster"!  Next to the K3 it is
> the best radio I have had on the desk.  So, back to the amp issue.  Has
> anyone connected two radios--one being a K3 using the AUX cable--to the
> KPA500, without having to plug/unplug cables to get everything to play
> nicely?
>
> 73 de K6SBA
> David in Santa Barbara, CA
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Utility on Mac - Sound Card for DATA A - no output

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeff,

The KX3 Utility program is not intended to put out any sound (on any OS 
platform).  I am not certain where you found information that is does.


The path for sound from Fldigi is quite different.  Fldigi is "sort of" 
an SDR application in that it takes the bandpass of the input audio and 
can pass that audio along to the computer soundcard if that is enabled.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 8:35 PM, Thorpe, Jeffrey wrote:

I tried following the directions in KE7X’s book (7.5.2) to try and get a handle 
on how all this works, but ran into an odd problem - the KX3 utility program 
doesn’t seem to put out any sound. I unplugged the cable from the 
headphone/line out jack on my Macbook Pro and it was completely silent. Didn’t 
matter if it was CW, RTTY or PSK31. I then tried it on Fldigi and that program 
would output sound just fine. If I disconnect the USB/RS232 cable, then the 
Utility program does nothing.

So, is there a known problem with the Utility on Mac, or am I likely doing 
something wrong?



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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

[Don Wilhelm]

I also bought one of Fred's heatsinks for my KX3.
I tested the KX3 with continuous keydown at 10 watts for 10 minutes - 
shack ambient temperature of 22.5 degC (72 degF).
Without the heat sink, my KX3 throttled back to 5 watts after 4 minutes, 
30 seconds.  After the power reduction, the KX3 PA temperature began to 
cool since the stock heatsink is adequate for the 5 watt level in a 
normal shack temperature environment.  If there is direct sun on the KX3 
on a hot day, that is another situation (I did not test under those 
conditions).
With Fred's heatsink installed, the same test throttled power to 5 watts 
after 8 minutes 30 seconds, a significant improvement.


Fred provided me with a thermal pad for a test, and with that thermal 
pad, the time before power was reduced was 9 minutes 45 seconds.


So my conclusions are that the heat sink makes a big difference for 
continuous duty modes when operation above 5 watts is a goal.  The 
thermal pad made some improvement, but not terribly significant for most 
practical uses.


IMHO, the heatsink is an improvement to the KX3 for those who do 
continuous duty data modes and want to operate at power levels in excess 
of 5 watts.


There are at least 2 others who have posted that they are also offering 
add-on heat sinks for the KX3.  An archive search of the reflector posts 
will reveal those others.  I suspect that any added heatsink will 
improve the heat transfer to ambient air.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 8:05 PM, Dave G. wrote:

FWIW... I thought I'd mention this..

I bought my KX3 heat sink from Fred Meier VE7FM a while ago.
It is a very well machined precision product and fits beautifully,
everything lined up perfectly - and it took me less than 10 minutes to
install.
I chose the micro bead blasted finish to increase the effective
radiating area. (at least that's what I figured - I'm probably wrong!)

It weighs about 8oz and I measured/calculated that it had a total
dissipating area of just over 42 sq ins.

The transaction was very easy and the delivery was very fast.

I posted the list with my before and after results of temperatures
reached for key-down continuous output transmissions at various power
levels for a 5 minute duration at each power level into a dummy load.

I had no temp induced shutdowns during my tests with that heat sink fitted..
I've been using it for several months now with no problems.




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[Elecraft] KX3 Utility on Mac - Sound Card for DATA A - no output

[Thorpe, Jeffrey]

I tried following the directions in KE7X’s book (7.5.2) to try and get a handle 
on how all this works, but ran into an odd problem - the KX3 utility program 
doesn’t seem to put out any sound. I unplugged the cable from the 
headphone/line out jack on my Macbook Pro and it was completely silent. Didn’t 
matter if it was CW, RTTY or PSK31. I then tried it on Fldigi and that program 
would output sound just fine. If I disconnect the USB/RS232 cable, then the 
Utility program does nothing.

So, is there a known problem with the Utility on Mac, or am I likely doing 
something wrong?

(on another note, how do you search these archives without manually crawling 
through the monthly lists???)

Jeff - KG7HDZ
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Michael Morgan]

I have also struggled with the layout of my iMac with my station.  I was
using it with my radios to the side because like you I didn't like the
screen being to high.  I wound up getting me a second monitor a 27" IPS
from MonoPrice.  So I have it mounted on a arm so it is lower with my iMac
to the side.  You can see some pictures on my website.  Old Pictures
http://www.aa5sh.com/?page_id=54 and current picture is in the header.

 With the 27" iMac you should be able to get a Vesa adapter where you can
remove the stand and put in on a arm.  Then you can adjust the height
better.  Unfortunately with my 21.5" the Vesa mount is not an option or I
would have gotten a dual monitor arm for them both.

But my shack changes often as well hi hi.

73's

Michael, AA5SH


On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 6:20 PM, Jim N7US  wrote:

> I experienced that with polycarbonate lenses but not with high quality,
> high-index plastic ones.
>
> 73, Jim N7US
>
>
> -Original Message-
>
> I tried progressive lenses three times, and each one ended in frustration,
> because the "reading" area is limited to a circular "bull's eye" that makes
> head swiveling mandatory for covering a wide area. If anyone knows of a
> progressive without this characteristic, I'd be first in line.
> ...robert
>
> On 5/2/2014 19:58, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
> >
> > On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> >  > I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.
> >
> > Please tell me who makes a progressive lens with the same viewing
> > angle as an executive (Franklin) bifocal?   I have been looking for
> > a progressive lens that will allow me to read large blueprints or
> > schematics and see three monitors wide without swiveling my head for
> > nearly 20 years.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > ... Joe, W4TV
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 (fredem)

[Dave G.]

FWIW... I thought I'd mention this..

I bought my KX3 heat sink from Fred Meier VE7FM a while ago.
It is a very well machined precision product and fits beautifully,
everything lined up perfectly - and it took me less than 10 minutes to
install.
I chose the micro bead blasted finish to increase the effective
radiating area. (at least that's what I figured - I'm probably wrong!)

It weighs about 8oz and I measured/calculated that it had a total
dissipating area of just over 42 sq ins.

The transaction was very easy and the delivery was very fast.

I posted the list with my before and after results of temperatures
reached for key-down continuous output transmissions at various power
levels for a 5 minute duration at each power level into a dummy load.

I had no temp induced shutdowns during my tests with that heat sink fitted..
I've been using it for several months now with no problems.

If you look in the pictures folder, under my callsign, you can see
before and after images of it fitted to my KX3
I also posted the before and after indicated temps to the list (a while back!)

I do know that Fred is willing and able to ship worldwide from Canada,
in fact,  to anywhere in the world that has PayPal or a bank draft.
For my order I used PayPal.

Usual Disclaimer: I have no financial or other interests in Fred's
products other than being a very satisfied customer.

73 de

Dave G.KK7SS
Richland, WA.
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Re: [Elecraft] Triggering KPA500 from 2 Radios

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

Yes, the AUX cable connected to the K3 will cause the KPA500 to "do 
strange things" when attempts are made to use the KPA500 with another 
transceiver.  And those "strange things" will depend on whether the K3 
is powered on or off.


May I suggest that you alter the K3 to KPA500 AUX cable by inserting a 
switch in line with it.
There are computer switches for SVGA monitors to switch one monitor 
between two computers.  Inserting one of those switches between the K3 
and the KPA500 should allow you to manually disconnect the K3 AUX cable 
when using  the MKV.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 7:30 PM, David Inger wrote:

I have been using my K3/KPA500 setup for quite sometime.  I am using the
standard cable between the K3 ACC port and the KPA500 AUX for communications
between the radio and the amp.  This has worked perfectly from the
beginning.  At some time in the past, I wanted to use my Yaesu MKV Field to
excite the amp.  I connected both radios tho the KPA500 through a 2-position
coax switch.  I also connect a cable from the MKV  to the KPA PA. KEY jack.
When I switched the amp from standby to operate, there was a huge
attenuation of the MKV's received signal.  When I unplugged the K3-KPA AUX
cable the problem went away.  The received signal level was fine and the amp
produced +/-500 watts with about 40 watts of drive from the MKV.  An earlier
message on the reflector indicated that this signal attenuation with the AUX
cable connected was likely due to voltage signals on the AUX lines.  I
remove the MKV from the system and forgot about.
  
Well, I've rearranged my operating desk and would like to use the MKV a

little; I sure do like operating "the old monster"!  Next to the K3 it is
the best radio I have had on the desk.  So, back to the amp issue.  Has
anyone connected two radios--one being a K3 using the AUX cable--to the
KPA500, without having to plug/unplug cables to get everything to play
nicely?
  



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Doug Person via Elecraft]

I have them as well and highly recommend them.
73, Doug -- K0DXV

On 5/2/2014 9:28 AM, Larry Wassmann wrote:

They are now prescribing what my eye doc called office or computer glasses that 
are just for sitting in front of a computer screen while working. I got a pair 
and they are just great. No more eye or neck problems. Ask for a pair next time 
you are at your eye doctors office you won’t be sorry.


73 OZ






From:
  Larry Martus Wassmann
  Non omnis moriar
  (Not all of me will die) - - - The good I do will live forever.

www.w3oz.com
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[Elecraft] Triggering KPA500 from 2 Radios

[David Inger]

I have been using my K3/KPA500 setup for quite sometime.  I am using the
standard cable between the K3 ACC port and the KPA500 AUX for communications
between the radio and the amp.  This has worked perfectly from the
beginning.  At some time in the past, I wanted to use my Yaesu MKV Field to
excite the amp.  I connected both radios tho the KPA500 through a 2-position
coax switch.  I also connect a cable from the MKV  to the KPA PA. KEY jack.
When I switched the amp from standby to operate, there was a huge
attenuation of the MKV's received signal.  When I unplugged the K3-KPA AUX
cable the problem went away.  The received signal level was fine and the amp
produced +/-500 watts with about 40 watts of drive from the MKV.  An earlier
message on the reflector indicated that this signal attenuation with the AUX
cable connected was likely due to voltage signals on the AUX lines.  I
remove the MKV from the system and forgot about.
 
Well, I've rearranged my operating desk and would like to use the MKV a
little; I sure do like operating "the old monster"!  Next to the K3 it is
the best radio I have had on the desk.  So, back to the amp issue.  Has
anyone connected two radios--one being a K3 using the AUX cable--to the
KPA500, without having to plug/unplug cables to get everything to play
nicely?
 
73 de K6SBA
David in Santa Barbara, CA 
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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

I Probably should have suggested this on the first email, post to the
list in my sig.  You will get an answer, there are literately several
thousand MixW users there.  4k users signed up to that list.
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 13:52 -0700, Phil Kane wrote:
> While we are on the topic of MixW and Elecraft..(and there's no good
> MixW help available)
> 
> I have been using MixW (first v.2 now v.3.1.1) with my K2 for about 7
> years.  Recently I noticed that the on-screen Log was only showing the
> last two contacts, versus it showing about 6 or 8 before.  I can't find
> any adjustment, either in the menus or in "hacking" the .ini file and
> the file can't be "dragged" any more open.   OS is Win 7 Pro.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this?
> -- --
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

Phil,

Are you a member of the Yahoo group in my sig below?  If not, join, then
look in the files section.  There is a fellow there who has totally
rewritten all the help files and keeps them current.

If you do get them, and like them, please thank him... He is a fellow
from the UK, and I can't remember his call for the life of me right now.
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 13:52 -0700, Phil Kane wrote:
> While we are on the topic of MixW and Elecraft..(and there's no good
> MixW help available)
> 
> I have been using MixW (first v.2 now v.3.1.1) with my K2 for about 7
> years.  Recently I noticed that the on-screen Log was only showing the
> last two contacts, versus it showing about 6 or 8 before.  I can't find
> any adjustment, either in the menus or in "hacking" the .ini file and
> the file can't be "dragged" any more open.   OS is Win 7 Pro.
> 
> Has anyone experienced this?
> -- --
> 
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
> 
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] Wow... nice experience

[David Cole]

Hi,
I noticed the same thing with my order of a few weeks ago...  Everyone I
dealt with seemed to actually have a clue!  Very refreshing.
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 16:43 -0400, K8JHR wrote:
> I called the Elecraft Sales Office to head off a potential issue with my 
> online order, and the gal on the phone was most pleasant, helpful, 
> courteous,  and (best of all) "with it."   I hope management will read 
> this message.
> 
> Happy days.
> --  K8JHR  -
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Jim N7US]

I experienced that with polycarbonate lenses but not with high quality,
high-index plastic ones.

73, Jim N7US


-Original Message-

I tried progressive lenses three times, and each one ended in frustration,
because the "reading" area is limited to a circular "bull's eye" that makes
head swiveling mandatory for covering a wide area. If anyone knows of a
progressive without this characteristic, I'd be first in line.
...robert

On 5/2/2014 19:58, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:
>
> On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
>  > I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.
>
> Please tell me who makes a progressive lens with the same viewing
> angle as an executive (Franklin) bifocal?   I have been looking for
> a progressive lens that will allow me to read large blueprints or 
> schematics and see three monitors wide without swiveling my head for 
> nearly 20 years.
>
> 73,
>
> ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

Yes, I moved the decimal in the wrong direction!  Your calculation is 
correct.
If you have the K2 connected to an antenna near other antennas that is 
being used for transmit, then I would strongly recommend that you either 
disconnect the antenna from the K2 (or KX3 or any other receiver) during 
the time you are transmitting.  That could be accomplished automatically 
with relays, but if you are not doing SO2R, manual antenna switches will 
do that task just as well.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 5:59 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

Thanks Don. I was chatting to a fellow KX3 owner about how the KX3 protects 
itself in the presence of strong RF, and he remarked that my K2 would probably 
do the same. When I looked into it, I was reaching similar conclusions as you, 
although I didn't find any information about maximum signal ratings for the 
mixer.

BTW, 39mW corresponds to 16dBm, which is indeed huge. I calculated 0.14Vrms to 
be more like -4dBm (ie. an S9+69dB signal), but maybe there's a stray decimal 
point, or I've missed an assumption somewhere.

Anyway, best thing is to take some measurements, and see if an external 
protection device is warranted. Thanks to Steve for the diode suggestion when 
using separate receive antenna.




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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

20" would cover one of my three monitors at a typical 24" viewing
distance vs. an approximately 160 degree field of view with the
executive bifocals.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 5/2/2014 4:42 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

According to the advertizing mats at my Eyecare place. Baush and Lomb
offers 3 progressive viewing widths.  Balancing cost and desire for a
wide view, I choose the middle width.
I don't know about covering 3 monitors at once, but with a viewing
distance of 30 inches, the entire width of my 20 inch wide monitor can
be in focus without turning my head.  At a viewing distance of 20
inches, the left and right edges of the screen just begin to get fuzzy.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 3:58 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.

Please tell me who makes a progressive lens with the same viewing
angle as an executive (Franklin) bifocal?   I have been looking for
a progressive lens that will allow me to read large blueprints or
schematics and see three monitors wide without swiveling my head
for nearly 20 years.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Fred Jensen]

Well ... I can tell you with absolute certainty, zero doubt, that a 500 
W 80m CW transmission consisting on one dit can, and did, silence the 
front end of the K3 across the room on 75m for the remainder of the 
contest.  The antennas were probably in each other's near field.


Corollary Observation:  Bandpass filters [both rigs had them] are about 
as effective when both rigs are on the same band as bluffing in solitaire.


My advice, if you're in a situation where your K "could" get a 
high dose of RF is to use protection.  In this thread some time ago, 
several of the usual suspects on the list who tend to be right most of 
the time seemed to converge on 0 dBm as the absolute limit.  YMMV.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the 2014 Cal QSO Party 4-5 Oct 2014
- www.cqp.org

On 5/2/2014 2:59 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

Thanks Don. I was chatting to a fellow KX3 owner about how the KX3
protects itself in the presence of strong RF, and he remarked that my
K2 would probably do the same. When I looked into it, I was reaching
similar conclusions as you, although I didn't find any information
about maximum signal ratings for the mixer.


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[Elecraft] VE7FMN KX3 heatsink

[lmarion]

I got one of these, it’s a high quality item, recommended.Leroy AB7CE


-Original Message- 
From: fredem

Sent: Friday, May 02, 2014 10:13 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Cool your KX3 and no price increase in May.

VE7FMN's Cooler KX heat sink next production run started this morning.
Featuring 41 Sq In surface area, 8 oz of mass, surface ground and lapped for
absolute maximal contact area. There is no foreseeable price increase in May
Inquire here or directly to: fsme...@telus.net for details and references.
Cheers, Fred, VE7FMN



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Re: [Elecraft] Where is the proper place to send Firmware request to?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have a couple of macros worked out for that, I need to see if I can optimize 
them then turn them into a rotatable macro.





 From: XE3/K5ENS via Elecraft 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, May 2, 2014 11:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Where is the proper place to send Firmware request  
to?
 

You can also go into the KPA3 menu and turn the fans on anytime you need
them.


Keith, XE3/K5ENS



--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Where-is-the-proper-place-to-send-Firmware-request-to-tp7588359p7588371.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I have Three Pairs of Glasses

A pair progressive bifocals for general wear, a pair for reading,
and a pair for working on computers (what I do for a living).

Single vision glasses are typically reasonably priced and come in handy.





 From: Larry Wassmann 
To: "Elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Sent: Friday, May 2, 2014 11:28 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs
 

They are now prescribing what my eye doc called office or computer glasses that 
are just for sitting in front of a computer screen while working. I got a pair 
and they are just great. No more eye or neck problems. Ask for a pair next time 
you are at your eye doctors office you won’t be sorry. 


73 OZ






From: 
Larry Martus Wassmann 
Non omnis moriar 
(Not all of me will die) - - - The good I do will live forever. 

www.w3oz.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Wow... nice experience

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

Yep, I have even had Bad issues taken care of nicely.







 From: K8JHR 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, May 2, 2014 4:43 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] Wow... nice experience
 

I called the Elecraft Sales Office to head off a potential issue with my 
online order, and the gal on the phone was most pleasant, helpful, 
courteous,  and (best of all) "with it."   I hope management will read 
this message.

Happy days.
--  K8JHR  -
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Matt VK2RQ]

Thanks Don. I was chatting to a fellow KX3 owner about how the KX3 protects 
itself in the presence of strong RF, and he remarked that my K2 would probably 
do the same. When I looked into it, I was reaching similar conclusions as you, 
although I didn't find any information about maximum signal ratings for the 
mixer.

BTW, 39mW corresponds to 16dBm, which is indeed huge. I calculated 0.14Vrms to 
be more like -4dBm (ie. an S9+69dB signal), but maybe there's a stray decimal 
point, or I've missed an assumption somewhere.

Anyway, best thing is to take some measurements, and see if an external 
protection device is warranted. Thanks to Steve for the diode suggestion when 
using separate receive antenna.

73,
Matt VK2RQ

> On 3 May 2014, at 5:06 am, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Matt,
> 
> There is no provision for that as far as I know, however the 2N5109 used in 
> the K2 preamp stage is quite a robust transistor.  For instance the absolute 
> maximum base to emitter voltage is rated at 3 volts and the K2 preamp design 
> raises the emitter 1.3 volts above the board ground.  It would take a very 
> healthy signal on the K2 input to produce greater than 3 volts peak at the 
> base to emitter junction.
> Even the K2 Receive Signal Tracing instructs one to inject a 0.14 volt RMS 
> signal for tracing purposes, and that is a very strong signal (I calculate 39 
> mW).
> 
> The 1st mixer (a TOP1 diode ring mixer) is capable of handling very large 
> signals as well.
> 
> I would not drive a 5 watt signal directly into the K2 receiver and expect no 
> damage, but under normal operation there should be no problem.
> If you are expecting an extremely large signal on the feedline while the K2 
> is connected, I would suggest that some external protective device be added 
> to your station.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/2/2014 2:32 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:
>> When building the K2, one installs a couple of back-to-back diodes across 
>> the input of the IF amplifier to clamp the input voltage. However, if there 
>> is a large signal on the antenna during receive, what protection is there 
>> for the RF preamp transistor and the first mixer? Does the micro controller 
>> monitor the V_RFDET line on the antenna during receive, and switch out the 
>> preamp/switch in the attenuator when a large signal is detected?
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[Phil Kane]

While we are on the topic of MixW and Elecraft..(and there's no good
MixW help available)

I have been using MixW (first v.2 now v.3.1.1) with my K2 for about 7
years.  Recently I noticed that the on-screen Log was only showing the
last two contacts, versus it showing about 6 or 8 before.  I can't find
any adjustment, either in the menus or in "hacking" the .ini file and
the file can't be "dragged" any more open.   OS is Win 7 Pro.

Has anyone experienced this?
-- --

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[K8JHR]

Gotta love it!

-- K8JHR 


On 5/2/2014 3:45 PM, Ben Collins-Sussman wrote:

FYI, Elecraft is sending me a replacement cable.  :-)

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[Elecraft] Wow... nice experience

[K8JHR]

I called the Elecraft Sales Office to head off a potential issue with my 
online order, and the gal on the phone was most pleasant, helpful, 
courteous,  and (best of all) "with it."   I hope management will read 
this message.


Happy days.
--  K8JHR  -
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Don Wilhelm]

According to the advertizing mats at my Eyecare place. Baush and Lomb 
offers 3 progressive viewing widths.  Balancing cost and desire for a 
wide view, I choose the middle width.
I don't know about covering 3 monitors at once, but with a viewing 
distance of 30 inches, the entire width of my 20 inch wide monitor can 
be in focus without turning my head.  At a viewing distance of 20 
inches, the left and right edges of the screen just begin to get fuzzy.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 3:58 PM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.

Please tell me who makes a progressive lens with the same viewing
angle as an executive (Franklin) bifocal?   I have been looking for
a progressive lens that will allow me to read large blueprints or
schematics and see three monitors wide without swiveling my head
for nearly 20 years.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Robert G Strickland]

I tried progressive lenses three times, and each one ended in 
frustration, because the "reading" area is limited to a circular "bulls 
eye" that makes head swiveling mandatory for covering a wide area. If 
anyone knows of a progressive without this characteristic, I'd be first 
in line.

...robert

On 5/2/2014 19:58, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:


On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
 > I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.

Please tell me who makes a progressive lens with the same viewing
angle as an executive (Franklin) bifocal?   I have been looking for
a progressive lens that will allow me to read large blueprints or
schematics and see three monitors wide without swiveling my head
for nearly 20 years.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.  I tried
bifocals once and they drive me crazy.
With good progressive lenses, distance to the monitor is no problem nor
is reading or working as close as 6 inches.  I can lay a newspaper flat
on the table in front of me and read it from top to bottom without
excessive head movement - try that with bifocals!
For me, the wide angle is important - the regular progressives produce
'tunnel vision'

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 10:05 AM, David Cole wrote:

I must also concur with Dale, et al.  I also have a set of glasses I had
the Optometrist prescribe, and I can not use my bifocals anymore, too
much head movement...  That was th best money I have spent in a long
time.  One thing you might consider is adding an AR coating to them.

I use ONLY glass lenses, (no polycarbonate), and have them AR coated.
The coating is finally coming off my bifocals after 5 years of heavy
cleaning.  The AR coating is wonderful if you have specular lighting
events around your OP area.  With an AR coating, if you clean your
glasses right, (ultrasonic cleaner), you will not even see them...



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--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Steve & Anne Ray]

I got tired of reaching behind to hook up a cable to the aux receiver
antenna input, so made up a cable with a couple of 1N4002 diodes across the
cable from center conductor to ground (cathode end of one diode to center
conductor and anode to the shield and the other diode anode end to center
conductor and cathode end to shield).  This gives a protection as the diodes
conduct at about 0.7 Volts.  I just leave this cable connected to the aux
receiver input all the time, however most of the time I just use the regular
antenna for operating with the aux receive antenna off.

 

73,

Steve K4JPN

www.thewinstonator.com/K4JPN.htm

 

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
> I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.

Please tell me who makes a progressive lens with the same viewing
angle as an executive (Franklin) bifocal?   I have been looking for
a progressive lens that will allow me to read large blueprints or
schematics and see three monitors wide without swiveling my head
for nearly 20 years.

73,

   ... Joe, W4TV


On 5/2/2014 10:19 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.  I tried
bifocals once and they drive me crazy.
With good progressive lenses, distance to the monitor is no problem nor
is reading or working as close as 6 inches.  I can lay a newspaper flat
on the table in front of me and read it from top to bottom without
excessive head movement - try that with bifocals!
For me, the wide angle is important - the regular progressives produce
'tunnel vision'

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 10:05 AM, David Cole wrote:

I must also concur with Dale, et al.  I also have a set of glasses I had
the Optometrist prescribe, and I can not use my bifocals anymore, too
much head movement...  That was th best money I have spent in a long
time.  One thing you might consider is adding an AR coating to them.

I use ONLY glass lenses, (no polycarbonate), and have them AR coated.
The coating is finally coming off my bifocals after 5 years of heavy
cleaning.  The AR coating is wonderful if you have specular lighting
events around your OP area.  With an AR coating, if you clean your
glasses right, (ultrasonic cleaner), you will not even see them...



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Ben Collins-Sussman]

FYI, Elecraft is sending me a replacement cable.  :-)
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[K8JHR]

I am a funny sort of guy.   If you cannot be sure which cable is perfect 
- replace both!  You have a $3000 Plus radio plus and a $2000 Plus amp 
and also an expensive tuner...  Sheesh... I would get two new cables 
under warranty or bite the bullet and just pay up, and sleep well at 
night.


In the mean time, you might do a continuity check on each one, checking 
it against its schematic drawing, to determine of them is perfect and 
proper and which is different from what Elecraft specifies as correct. 
 Use the perfect one, and return the broken one under warranty, or if a 
generic cable, spring for another perfect one locally and get on the air 
with confidence.  How much are they? Probably less than a pizza and a 
beer, I bet.


Just MY take, anyway...

--  K8JHR -

On 5/2/2014 12:28 PM, Jack Brindle wrote:


> So, my suggestion. Use the cable with all pins intact between the KPA 
and K3. Use the other cable from the K3 to the KPA.


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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

Hi Tony,
Thank you!  Got my first macro going...  It adjusts MixW to the sweet
spot for my hearing, then moves the passband of the K3 to that same
freq, and then narrows down the Bandwidth to a few hundred HZ.  

Also got my three filter select Macros going...  

Wow...  CATCMD, (THANK YOU Elecraft for using ASCII), is a lot better
than CATHEXMODE I got sick of converting everything to double secret
Icom control codes, then converting that to HEX, then firing it off at
teh radio.  Now I just use ASCII!  I am thinking of building a little
box I can insert in the RS-232 line, and insert commands whenever I
want, using a separate control panel. I WILL have my remote control for
firing off radio macros soon...  Probably make that a winter project.
it should not be hard at all.

Thanks a million Tony... 
-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 10:04 -0700, David Cole wrote:
> Again, thank you Tony!!!  Now that I am finally getting moved into the
> K3, it is time to start addressing the lost macros from my Pro 3.  I had
> not used the CATCMD from MixW, so that will be a fun!!!  Sure will make
> it easy!
> 
> I just wish FLDigi did direct RTS or DTR keying for CW now, I'd consider
> moving to it from MixW.  I detest the audio only interface FLDigi uses
> for CW keying.
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Don Wilhelm]

Matt,

There is no provision for that as far as I know, however the 2N5109 used 
in the K2 preamp stage is quite a robust transistor.  For instance the 
absolute maximum base to emitter voltage is rated at 3 volts and the K2 
preamp design raises the emitter 1.3 volts above the board ground.  It 
would take a very healthy signal on the K2 input to produce greater than 
3 volts peak at the base to emitter junction.
Even the K2 Receive Signal Tracing instructs one to inject a 0.14 volt 
RMS signal for tracing purposes, and that is a very strong signal (I 
calculate 39 mW).


The 1st mixer (a TOP1 diode ring mixer) is capable of handling very 
large signals as well.


I would not drive a 5 watt signal directly into the K2 receiver and 
expect no damage, but under normal operation there should be no problem.
If you are expecting an extremely large signal on the feedline while the 
K2 is connected, I would suggest that some external protective device be 
added to your station.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 2:32 PM, Matt VK2RQ wrote:

When building the K2, one installs a couple of back-to-back diodes across the 
input of the IF amplifier to clamp the input voltage. However, if there is a 
large signal on the antenna during receive, what protection is there for the RF 
preamp transistor and the first mixer? Does the micro controller monitor the 
V_RFDET line on the antenna during receive, and switch out the preamp/switch in 
the attenuator when a large signal is detected?




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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources [CORRECTED]

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

Isn't this more of a Zepp than an OCF?

On 5/2/2014 11:55 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

On 5/2/2014 11:45 AM, Phil Kane wrote:


Honolulu Emergency Amateur Radio Club (I have no
financial interest in the club or the product other than satisfaction).
  It's tuned by the KAT/100 and rated for 40m and down, but it will also
tune to 60m.  80/75m is something else, same as the R8. See:  www.earchi.com

My error!   The proper URL is:  www.earchi.org/proj_homebrew.html.

It uses a tri-filar-wound auto-transformer as an un-un.  A complete
parts list and instructions are available at the above URL but it is
also available ready-built and tested (and the 30 ft wire included) for
about $50.
-- --
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources [CORRECTED]

[Phil Kane]

On 5/2/2014 11:45 AM, Phil Kane wrote:

> Honolulu Emergency Amateur Radio Club (I have no
> financial interest in the club or the product other than satisfaction).
>  It's tuned by the KAT/100 and rated for 40m and down, but it will also
> tune to 60m.  80/75m is something else, same as the R8. See:  www.earchi.com

My error!   The proper URL is:  www.earchi.org/proj_homebrew.html.

It uses a tri-filar-wound auto-transformer as an un-un.  A complete
parts list and instructions are available at the above URL but it is
also available ready-built and tested (and the 30 ft wire included) for
about $50.
-- --
73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources

[Phil Kane]

On 5/2/2014 10:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal K2VCO wrote:

> It appears to me that "no-radial" verticals are also OCF dipoles,
> vertically oriented. In my new QTH I will be limited to a vertical, and
> I chose a Cushcraft (well, MFJ now) R8. It has a built-in 'balun' --
> that is, a choke -- but I am taking no chances and have prepared another
> choke that I will mount immediately under the antenna to ensure that it
> will be decoupled from the feedline.

For a number of years I used an R8 with my K2/100 - no chokes, just a
ground wire to the antenna mast and at the entry protector for safety
even though this area does not have lightning to any degree - and was
very pleased with it.

Right now I'm in an apartment and can't put up any reasonable HF
antennas, so using 30 ft coax-fed OCF "special" sold as an emergency
antenna by the Honolulu Emergency Amateur Radio Club (I have no
financial interest in the club or the product other than satisfaction).
 It's tuned by the KAT/100 and rated for 40m and down, but it will also
tune to 60m.  80/75m is something else, same as the R8. See:  www.earchi.com
--  --

73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402

>From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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[Elecraft] [K2] Receiver overload protection

[Matt VK2RQ]

When building the K2, one installs a couple of back-to-back diodes across the 
input of the IF amplifier to clamp the input voltage. However, if there is a 
large signal on the antenna during receive, what protection is there for the RF 
preamp transistor and the first mixer? Does the micro controller monitor the 
V_RFDET line on the antenna during receive, and switch out the preamp/switch in 
the attenuator when a large signal is detected?

73,
Matt VK2RQ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources

[Vic Rosenthal K2VCO]

It appears to me that "no-radial" verticals are also OCF dipoles, 
vertically oriented. In my new QTH I will be limited to a vertical, and 
I chose a Cushcraft (well, MFJ now) R8. It has a built-in 'balun' -- 
that is, a choke -- but I am taking no chances and have prepared another 
choke that I will mount immediately under the antenna to ensure that it 
will be decoupled from the feedline.


In addition, I am going to put yet another choke in the line where it 
enters the shack. I made these according to GM3SEK's designs 
, so they won't cost a king's 
ransom.


I hate noise!

On 5/1/2014 11:14 PM, K8JHR wrote:

K9YC raises an important issue.  I love my OCF dipole, but only because
I was very careful in how it went up.

My friend in Germany is making a serious study of common mode noise on
OCF dipoles, and from his work I know you must bring the transmission
line away at a 90 degree angle, and use a good 4:1 balun with common
mode choke, or the OFC Dipole can be an inherently noisy thing - in
fact, causing its own noise!

I have a very quiet OCF dipole, but I was extremely particular in how I
assembled and hung it, with a good balun-common mode choke, and making
sure I did not have have a problematic length of transmission line, etc.
Great antenna, I use it as net control of a nationwide net, but you
must be careful in how you build it.  If the coax comes near the
elements, even just a little, it can become problematic - affecting SWR
if not causing audible RFI.

Even if you put up resonant half wave dipoles, follow Jim's advice and
use a common mode choke.  Some guys put chokes at both ends of the
transmission line - at feed point and near the shack - and I know of no
negative or down side from doing that.

In addition to what Jim refers you to, in general, see:

www.dj0ip.de

and in particular see:

http://www.dj0ip.de/off-center-fed-dipole/what-s-wrong-ocfd/

which is all in English, and the author makes the case that many times
the 4:1 balun is poorly constructed or improperly wound to minimize
noise and effectuate the proper transformation.   And he uses 2 OCF
dipoles, himself, so it can be done with good results.   It seems that
some things called a "balun" are transformers and other things called a
"balun" are common mode chokes, and sometimes you need both functions,
and how yours is made matters.  So, read Jim's article, and the other
references herein, and maybe check out  W8JI's personal web site, for
good information on this.

Just MY take.


===  K8JHR  


--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

Again, thank you Tony!!!  Now that I am finally getting moved into the
K3, it is time to start addressing the lost macros from my Pro 3.  I had
not used the CATCMD from MixW, so that will be a fun!!!  Sure will make
it easy!

I just wish FLDigi did direct RTS or DTR keying for CW now, I'd consider
moving to it from MixW.  I detest the audio only interface FLDigi uses
for CW keying.

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 10:55 -0500, Tony Estep wrote:
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 10:22 AM, David Cole  wrote:
> 
> > ...Where did you get the list of commands...
> 
> ===
> If you have the MixW help files installed, you can find a very extensive
> list of macro commands there. The best way to send commands to the K3 is
> not via Hex, but via CATCMD. Then you just follow the Elecraft Programmer's
> Guide. Here's an example:
> 
> ;>
> 
> You start with  Programmer's Guide (downloadable from the Elecraft software page). There
> are many examples there already worked out for you, so you can just copy
> them or modify them to your needs.
> 
> Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Jack Brindle]

Oh buy the fingers got ahead of the brain. The intact cable goes from the KPA 
to the KAT, while the other cable goes from the K3 to the KAT. 

I seem to recall that we sent out a few bad cables a while back. This sounds 
like one of them. Contact tech support to get a replacement cable.

Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering

Sent from my iPad

> On May 2, 2014, at 9:28 AM, Jack Brindle  wrote:
> 
> Interesting.
> 
> I have a slightly different take. The two cables should be identical, with 
> the same pins missing. If the cable is broken, as Don suggests, you would see 
> very strange operation, but unless all the pins were broken, you would see 
> something. the fact that you are seeing nothing tells me that there is an 
> incompatible signal connected, probably the power-on signal. 
> 
> So, my suggestion. Use the cable with all pins intact between the KPA and K3. 
> Use the other cable from the K3 to the KPA. That should work just fine.
> 
> Jack Brindle, W6FB
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On May 2, 2014, at 8:08 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> I would suspect that there is some pin/wire in that KPA/KAT cable which is 
>> broken.  When used for your purposes between the K3 and the KAT500, it is 
>> not used, but is used for the KAT500 to KPA500 connection.  It may be wise 
>> to replace that cable at some point.  I would at least put a tag on it as a 
>> reminder that it is "flakey".
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 5/2/2014 9:49 AM, Ben Collins-Sussman wrote:
>>> OK, new test results, followed by an inexplicable resolution to the problem!
>>> 
>>> I'm comparing the two elecraft-specific DB15 cables here, with the
>>> suspicion that one of them is broken or defective.
>>> 
>>> 1.  *Physical observation*
>>> 
>>> The K3/KPA cable has all pins present.
>>> The KPA/KAT cable has pins 1, 6, 7 missing.  But it looks deliberate, and
>>> those pins are not used anyway (according to documentation.)
>>> I do not see any bent pins on either cable.
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Jack Brindle]

Interesting.

I have a slightly different take. The two cables should be identical, with the 
same pins missing. If the cable is broken, as Don suggests, you would see very 
strange operation, but unless all the pins were broken, you would see 
something. the fact that you are seeing nothing tells me that there is an 
incompatible signal connected, probably the power-on signal. 

So, my suggestion. Use the cable with all pins intact between the KPA and K3. 
Use the other cable from the K3 to the KPA. That should work just fine.

Jack Brindle, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

> On May 2, 2014, at 8:08 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> I would suspect that there is some pin/wire in that KPA/KAT cable which is 
> broken.  When used for your purposes between the K3 and the KAT500, it is not 
> used, but is used for the KAT500 to KPA500 connection.  It may be wise to 
> replace that cable at some point.  I would at least put a tag on it as a 
> reminder that it is "flakey".
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 5/2/2014 9:49 AM, Ben Collins-Sussman wrote:
>> OK, new test results, followed by an inexplicable resolution to the problem!
>> 
>> I'm comparing the two elecraft-specific DB15 cables here, with the
>> suspicion that one of them is broken or defective.
>> 
>> 1.  *Physical observation*
>> 
>> The K3/KPA cable has all pins present.
>> The KPA/KAT cable has pins 1, 6, 7 missing.  But it looks deliberate, and
>> those pins are not used anyway (according to documentation.)
>> I do not see any bent pins on either cable.
> 
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[Elecraft] KXPA100 f/w 1.28 now production released

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

KXPA100 Production Firmware MCU 1.28 has been released to production status and 
is now shipping.


Important: This version of firmware has new features that require the very 
latest KXPA100 Utility.


We recommend all KXPA100 owners upgrade to the latest KXPA100 utility and to 
KXPA100 MCU 1.28.



Some of the Key Changes in this release:

- Better tolerates forward and reflected power overshoot for brief periods to 
support external antenna tuners. Use approximately 10-20 watts of KXPA100 output 
when tuning.


- When the attenuator is acquired because of SWR or high reflected power, 
release attenuator immediately on next key up if SWR has been reduced to 3:1 or 
less.


- Update band voltage tables for ICOM 703 and Yaesu FT-817

- Reduce power required for ATU tune.

- Add per-band Antenna configuration (requires the new KXPA Utility for user 
interface)


- Improved RS232 handling for 3rd party applications. (Ham Radio Deluxe v6.2, 
PigKnob, etc.)



73,
Eric
elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] Cool your KX3 and no price increase in May.

[fredem]

VE7FMN's Cooler KX heat sink next production run started this morning.
Featuring 41 Sq In surface area, 8 oz of mass, surface ground and lapped for
absolute maximal contact area. There is no foreseeable price increase in May  
Inquire here or directly to: fsme...@telus.net for details and references.
Cheers, Fred, VE7FMN



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[Elecraft] Cool your KX3

[fredem]

VE7FMN's Cooler KX heat sink next production started this morning. The newest
version includes surface grinding for flatness, hand lapping on the surface
plate for accuracy and maximal contact area even without heat transfer
compound and 41 square inches of radiant area. There will be no price
increase this month ;-) I welcome all international orders. Enquire directly
to fsme...@telus.net for details. Cheers, Fred, VE7FMN



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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[Tony Estep]

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 10:22 AM, David Cole  wrote:

> ...Where did you get the list of commands...

===
If you have the MixW help files installed, you can find a very extensive
list of macro commands there. The best way to send commands to the K3 is
not via Hex, but via CATCMD. Then you just follow the Elecraft Programmer's
Guide. Here's an example:

;>

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[Elecraft] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Larry Wassmann]

They are now prescribing what my eye doc called office or computer glasses that 
are just for sitting in front of a computer screen while working. I got a pair 
and they are just great. No more eye or neck problems. Ask for a pair next time 
you are at your eye doctors office you won’t be sorry. 


73 OZ






From: 
 Larry Martus Wassmann 
 Non omnis moriar 
 (Not all of me will die) - - - The good I do will live forever. 

www.w3oz.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

Tony,

Where did you get the list of commands from?

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 09:51 -0500, Tony Estep wrote:
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 9:17 AM, David Cole  wrote:
> 
> > ...an example Hex command being fired off to a K3 from a
> > MixW Macro...
> 
> ===
> Dave,
> 
> Here are three simple examples:
> Puts everything in CW Mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Puts everything in LSB Mode
> 
> 
> Puts everything in USB Mode
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] Where is the proper place to send Firmware request to?

[Harry_Yingst via Elecraft]

I was thinking that may be the short term fix





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Re: [Elecraft] Where is the proper place to send Firmware request to?

[XE3/K5ENS via Elecraft]

You can also go into the KPA3 menu and turn the fans on anytime you need
them.


Keith, XE3/K5ENS



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Don Wilhelm]

I would suspect that there is some pin/wire in that KPA/KAT cable which 
is broken.  When used for your purposes between the K3 and the KAT500, 
it is not used, but is used for the KAT500 to KPA500 connection.  It may 
be wise to replace that cable at some point.  I would at least put a tag 
on it as a reminder that it is "flakey".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 9:49 AM, Ben Collins-Sussman wrote:

OK, new test results, followed by an inexplicable resolution to the problem!

I'm comparing the two elecraft-specific DB15 cables here, with the
suspicion that one of them is broken or defective.

1.  *Physical observation*

The K3/KPA cable has all pins present.
The KPA/KAT cable has pins 1, 6, 7 missing.  But it looks deliberate, and
those pins are not used anyway (according to documentation.)
I do not see any bent pins on either cable.





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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[K8JHR]

On 5/2/2014 10:38 AM, george fritkin via Elecraft wrote:
> Who needs two receivers when you can buy two complete radios (TS590s) 
for the price of the Elecraft

>
 -


Cause the K3 does not have a transmit spike.

Cause the K3 'may" have better ALC operation (there are "questions" 
surrounding the 590 ALC operation... one reason I sold my 590


Cause the k3 (I think) can handle diversity audio, and you would need a 
separate device like what MFJ sells to mix and blend the two audio 
channels or keep them separate and that entails buying another accessory 
for more money


Cause you cannot transmit into the other receiver by accident when you 
have a K3 with two receivers - two 590s could be tricky as you could 
accidentally transmit into the second rig and fry its delicate front end 
- SO2R guys have this problem


Cause you might need two antennas or have an awkward time splitting one 
antenna for the two radios and then there is the time sequencing problem 
of coordinating the PTT on each one to avoid confusion or


Cause, as good as the 590 receiver specifications are, it is not as good 
a  k3 right out of the chute - the k3 is a down conversion rig on all 
bands, all the time, whereas the 590 does down conversion only on some 
bands under some conditions


Cause the K3 occupies one space and needs only one power  supply - you 
would have to buy a second supply for your second 590


Cause you would need N4PY software or equivalent to coordinate two rigs 
at additional cost - not that it is not worth it... but still it is 
something else to guy and configure and coordinate - linking the two 
rigs would be awkward I think


Cause it takes up twice the room on the desk top to have two radios do 
what one can do by itself, and shack space often comes at a premium


Cause it would be more difficult to take on the road, or to Field Day, 
or to the contest shack with the other guys, etc.


I think that is a good start why I would buy a second receiver for the 
K3 and not get two TS-590s just to have a second receiver.


Just MY take.

--- K8JHR  -
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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

Thank you Tony, I will take them apart and see how it works!  :)  Thanks
mush sir!  That saves me a lot of time in getting the first one right.
Anything I get I'll post here.

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 09:51 -0500, Tony Estep wrote:
> On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 9:17 AM, David Cole  wrote:
> 
> > ...an example Hex command being fired off to a K3 from a
> > MixW Macro...
> 
> ===
> Dave,
> 
> Here are three simple examples:
> Puts everything in CW Mode
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Puts everything in LSB Mode
> 
> 
> Puts everything in USB Mode
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[David Bunte]

Indeed, shack layout is personal.  I have fussed with it off and on for
years, and earlier this year I tried a new one... and so far, it serves me
very well.  In my case, I had my K3 etc. right on the desk, with a shelf
above that, which held a pair of 17" monitors, keyer and watt meter.

My desk is not very deep, so the keyboard was "almost" touching the K3,
until I angled it via the front bail.  But, the monitors were still too
high.

Now I have two 24 inch monitors, and I mounted them on the wall straight
ahead.  I lowered the shelf that had been above the radio, and put the K3,
P3 & KPA500 on the shelf.  My keyer sits atop the K3, my LP-100A sits on
the P3, and I can slide unused paddles, and the front edge of my keyboard
under the shelf, if I wish.  With this size monitor, mounted as it is, the
distance from my eyes to the screen is about 27" to to the center, 30" to
the outside edge.  I wear tri-focals, and I don't seem to have to move my
head nearly as much as I did previously.  However, I am not really into
contests, so most of the time I am in the shack, I am in QSO, not having to
look at the monitor during that time, or chasing DX, (which for me, may
mean sending my call 100 times before I need to look up at the monitor
again).

The suggestion to but the lower edge of the monitor at desk level confuses
me.  If I did that, I would not be able to see the lower half of the screen
because of the gear in front of it... or it would be in front of the the
rig... which would really create problems.  I guess if someone has the rig
off to one side that might work, I never tried it... but that underscores
your starting comment, that shack layout is highly individual.

A photo of my shack can be seen on my QRZ dot com page.

Best of luck es very 73 de Dave - K9FN




On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 10:29 AM, Jim N7US  wrote:

> I've found the best quality, high-index lenses to be what works for me.
>  For
> me, polycarbonate lenses have a very narrow focus (i.e., like a yagi's
> beamwidth) so I was always turning my head to center in my lenses what I
> was
> looking at.
>
> My monitors (two 19" 4:3 1280 X 1024) are on an Ergotron double swing-arm
> mount above my K-Line, which is on a shelf 4" (~9 cm) above my desk.  I use
> Shamir Office lenses but I want to get a different pair that is optimized
> for the distances from keyboard to the monitors.  Check out
> http://tinyurl.com/oa8erwf .
>
> I was recently diagnosed with a neck disk problem that is permanent.  I
> don't know if staring at computer monitors for the last 33 years
> (accountant
> and ham) or bicycling was responsible, but I think this subject is very
> relevant.
>
> 73, Jim N7US
>
> -Original Message-
>
> I must also concur with Dale, et al.  I also have a set of glasses I had
> the
> Optometrist prescribe, and I can not use my bifocals anymore, too much head
> movement...  That was th best money I have spent in a long time.  One thing
> you might consider is adding an AR coating to them.
>
> I use ONLY glass lenses, (no polycarbonate), and have them AR coated.
> The coating is finally coming off my bifocals after 5 years of heavy
> cleaning.  The AR coating is wonderful if you have specular lighting events
> around your OP area.  With an AR coating, if you clean your glasses right,
> (ultrasonic cleaner), you will not even see them...
>
> --
> Thanks and 73's,
> For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
> NK7Z
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[Tony Estep]

On Fri, May 2, 2014 at 9:17 AM, David Cole  wrote:

> ...an example Hex command being fired off to a K3 from a
> MixW Macro...

===
Dave,

Here are three simple examples:
Puts everything in CW Mode




Puts everything in LSB Mode


Puts everything in USB Mode



73,
Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Ross Primrose]

On 5/2/2014 10:38 AM, george fritkin via Elecraft wrote:

Who needs two receivers when you can buy two complete radios (TS590s) for the 
price of the Elecraft


The RX muting on transmit for the second receiver is already handled for 
you when you buy a K3, you'd have to get creative to implement that with 
two TS590s ;)


73, Ross N4RP



George, W6GFOwing 2)K3s .1)KX3AND 1)TS590S


On Thursday, May 1, 2014 11:55 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett  wrote:
  
The 590 has some short falls.  No 2nd receiver, some issues on 10m.

Only one roofing filter.

I owned a couple of FT-2000's and they were easy to use.  Looked pretty
cool but had some serious performance issues in the receiver.  Sold them
and got a K3 and then another one.

Most reflectors and groups deal with issues and problems.  I try not to
get too involved with the negatives about what I own.

Mike W0MU

On 5/2/2014 12:24 AM, K8JHR wrote:

His question is ...

Why have some operators sold their TS-590s to buy a K3?

Only one who has sold a TS-590 to purchase a K3 is competent to answer
and state his reason for doing that.

I am almost similarly situated as the original inquisitor... I
recently sold my 590 and now seriously consider buying a K3, but I am
still on the fence, planning to test drive the K3 as soon as possible.

Why did I sell my 590 to consider buying the K3?   The 590 is a solid
performer, and I enjoyed using it, and while my rig had no issues, I
sold it because I did not enjoy the overall 590-ownership-experience,
and although it is too complicated to explain fully here, I will say I
was sick of too many other owners whining and expecting perfection
from a $1500 radio, basing many complaints on unfounded or fanciful
claims, paranoid delusions, and unreasonable expectations.  I just got
sick of it, and of being asked by other hams about this and that so
called "issue" or "problem" I was not experiencing, so it was no fun
to own.

So, I bought a Orion II and now considering buying a K3, both of which
radios seem free from that sort of nonsense.

That's my reason, anyway.

---  K8JHR  --

On 5/1/2014 9:32 PM, Richard W Hemingway wrote:

Hello everyone,

I am a newbe and am selling my Kenwood TS 590s to buy a K3.  I am
wondering how many of  us have had a 590 and come to a K3 and why?
Thanks

DIck N5XRD
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Don Wilhelm]

I insist on progressive lenses with a wide viewing angle.  I tried 
bifocals once and they drive me crazy.
With good progressive lenses, distance to the monitor is no problem nor 
is reading or working as close as 6 inches.  I can lay a newspaper flat 
on the table in front of me and read it from top to bottom without 
excessive head movement - try that with bifocals!
For me, the wide angle is important - the regular progressives produce 
'tunnel vision'


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 10:05 AM, David Cole wrote:

I must also concur with Dale, et al.  I also have a set of glasses I had
the Optometrist prescribe, and I can not use my bifocals anymore, too
much head movement...  That was th best money I have spent in a long
time.  One thing you might consider is adding an AR coating to them.

I use ONLY glass lenses, (no polycarbonate), and have them AR coated.
The coating is finally coming off my bifocals after 5 years of heavy
cleaning.  The AR coating is wonderful if you have specular lighting
events around your OP area.  With an AR coating, if you clean your
glasses right, (ultrasonic cleaner), you will not even see them...



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Re: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[george fritkin via Elecraft]

Who needs two receivers when you can buy two complete radios (TS590s) for the 
price of the Elecraft

George, W6GFOwing 2)K3s .1)KX3AND 1)TS590S


On Thursday, May 1, 2014 11:55 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett  wrote:
 
The 590 has some short falls.  No 2nd receiver, some issues on 10m.  
Only one roofing filter.

I owned a couple of FT-2000's and they were easy to use.  Looked pretty 
cool but had some serious performance issues in the receiver.  Sold them 
and got a K3 and then another one.

Most reflectors and groups deal with issues and problems.  I try not to 
get too involved with the negatives about what I own.

Mike W0MU

On 5/2/2014 12:24 AM, K8JHR wrote:
> His question is ...
>
> Why have some operators sold their TS-590s to buy a K3?
>
> Only one who has sold a TS-590 to purchase a K3 is competent to answer 
> and state his reason for doing that.
>
> I am almost similarly situated as the original inquisitor... I 
> recently sold my 590 and now seriously consider buying a K3, but I am 
> still on the fence, planning to test drive the K3 as soon as possible.
>
> Why did I sell my 590 to consider buying the K3?   The 590 is a solid 
> performer, and I enjoyed using it, and while my rig had no issues, I 
> sold it because I did not enjoy the overall 590-ownership-experience, 
> and although it is too complicated to explain fully here, I will say I 
> was sick of too many other owners whining and expecting perfection 
> from a $1500 radio, basing many complaints on unfounded or fanciful 
> claims, paranoid delusions, and unreasonable expectations.  I just got 
> sick of it, and of being asked by other hams about this and that so 
> called "issue" or "problem" I was not experiencing, so it was no fun 
> to own.
>
> So, I bought a Orion II and now considering buying a K3, both of which 
> radios seem free from that sort of nonsense.
>
> That's my reason, anyway.
>
> ---  K8JHR  --
>
> On 5/1/2014 9:32 PM, Richard W Hemingway wrote:
>> Hello everyone,
>>
>> I am a newbe and am selling my Kenwood TS 590s to buy a K3.  I am 
>> wondering how many of  us have had a 590 and come to a K3 and why?  
>> Thanks
>>
>> DIck N5XRD
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Jim N7US]

I've found the best quality, high-index lenses to be what works for me.  For
me, polycarbonate lenses have a very narrow focus (i.e., like a yagi's
beamwidth) so I was always turning my head to center in my lenses what I was
looking at.

My monitors (two 19" 4:3 1280 X 1024) are on an Ergotron double swing-arm
mount above my K-Line, which is on a shelf 4" (~9 cm) above my desk.  I use
Shamir Office lenses but I want to get a different pair that is optimized
for the distances from keyboard to the monitors.  Check out
http://tinyurl.com/oa8erwf .

I was recently diagnosed with a neck disk problem that is permanent.  I
don't know if staring at computer monitors for the last 33 years (accountant
and ham) or bicycling was responsible, but I think this subject is very
relevant.

73, Jim N7US

-Original Message-

I must also concur with Dale, et al.  I also have a set of glasses I had the
Optometrist prescribe, and I can not use my bifocals anymore, too much head
movement...  That was th best money I have spent in a long time.  One thing
you might consider is adding an AR coating to them.  

I use ONLY glass lenses, (no polycarbonate), and have them AR coated.
The coating is finally coming off my bifocals after 5 years of heavy
cleaning.  The AR coating is wonderful if you have specular lighting events
around your OP area.  With an AR coating, if you clean your glasses right,
(ultrasonic cleaner), you will not even see them...

--
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
NK7Z


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Re: [Elecraft] Where is the proper place to send Firmware request to?

[Don Wilhelm]

It may produce an answer just as you have posted it, but it all depends 
on who is monitoring the list.

For better and more immediate attention, contact k3supp...@elecraft.com.
If you can be more specific about the temperature, it would help - 
'fairly hot' does not indicate much.  Too hot to hold the fingers on it 
for a minute is descriptive, as is 'too hot to touch', but if you have 
the capability for actual temperature measurements, that is very helpful.


What I can say about it is that many hams become concerned about heating 
of an area that is designed to act as a heat sink, even when operating 
well within the normal limits.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 10:17 AM, Harry_Yingst via Elecraft wrote:

I would like to submit a request if there is a proper place to submit it to:



When running the K3 on two meters It gets fairly hot fairly quick
since it only uses the side of the case as a heatsink.

I noticed that the K3 Remained warm for some time. When I went Back to HF
and the
fans for the PA came on the K3 cooled down fairly quickly and has remained
cool.

This makes me think that a FW change that would either run the fans whenever
the
K3 transmits on two meters or reads the temp of the front panel to turn the
fans on.




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[Elecraft] Where is the proper place to send Firmware request to?

[Harry_Yingst via Elecraft]

I would like to submit a request if there is a proper place to submit it to:



When running the K3 on two meters It gets fairly hot fairly quick
since it only uses the side of the case as a heatsink. 

I noticed that the K3 Remained warm for some time. When I went Back to HF
and the 
fans for the PA came on the K3 cooled down fairly quickly and has remained
cool. 

This makes me think that a FW change that would either run the fans whenever
the 
K3 transmits on two meters or reads the temp of the front panel to turn the
fans on. 





--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Where-is-the-proper-place-to-send-Firmware-request-to-tp7588359.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Jack Brindle]

That iMac is a wonderful system, with one of the best monitors available. In 
fact, there is a way to adjust the height of the monitor - you just need a 
different stand. I believe the iMacs are designed to accept a VESA monitor 
adapter, which would allow you to set the computer at pretty much any height or 
angle. Gamers use these stands extensively since they tend to spend a LOT of 
time staring at several monitors at all sorts of angles. Get a good one that 
bolts onto the back of your desk, and is configurable in pretty much every 
direction. These things can be pricey, especially for the good ones, but your 
neck is worth evert penny.

And enjoy that iMac. great system!

Jack B, W6FB

Sent from my iPad

> On May 2, 2014, at 7:08 AM, "d...@lightstream.net"  
> wrote:
> 
> I strongly concur w/ Bill's advice about getting a special pair of
> glasses. In my case, as a programmer, I spend all day in front of the
> computer. I have three monitors arranged in front of me, and I found that
> bi-focals definitely had a 'sweet spot' and I was always turning my head
> or looking up/down to see the screens within that sweet spot. I asked the
> eye doc to give me a prescription for single focal length glasses
> optimized for viewing a monitor 27" away. There is no 'sweet spot' and
> while looking at the center (primary) monitor directly in front of me, I
> can shift my eyes to the left or right to see the other two monitors
> without turning my head. I've had these glasses for about 5 years now, and
> they work perfectly.
> 
> Also, in my case, the K-Line is arrayed on the desktop immediately below
> the three monitors, and the central monitor (Samsung) has a front-panel
> switch that allows me to toggle it between the computer and the P3SVGA
> output.
> 
> Side comment: I seem to be in the minority w/ regard to positioning of a
> radio, in that it *must* be on the desktop and not tilted or elevated
> (with the exception of the P3). I like having my arm and hand resting on
> the table top as I tune the radio. Having to tilt my hand upward to tune a
> knob that is up in the air, or worse yet, rest my arm on my elbow while
> trying to tune a radio on a shelf is just plain wrong  ;-)
> 
> I bought a KX3 a few weeks ago and love the radio, but am struggling with
> the operating angle. It'll be fine for the field, but I need to cobble
> together some kind of stand for using it on the desktop.
> 
> 73, Dale
> WA8SRA
> 
> ...
>> Do NOT look up at monitors - it will
>> screw your neck up after a while. Also, I have specially cut glasses for
>> my radio desk. Bifocal for reading and seeing the keyboard - and the
>> upper is set to about 28 or 30 inches - the distance from your eyes to
>> the monitor and radios. Any good glasses shop can do this - it is a
>> common request.
>> 
>> ...
>> 
>> Bill K-Line
> 
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[Elecraft] Firing off a macro via MixW

[David Cole]

Hi,

Does anyone have an example Hex command being fired off to a K3 from a
MixW Macro they could send me please?

I used to have a set of macros for MixW and my Pro 3, and want to
recreate them.  I can send hex out from MixW, so I want to see if I can
do some control via MixW Macros.

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info



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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Rick Robinson]

Check out the stand by Nifty Products. It works great for this old guys
eyes. There is a link on Elecrafts site or Google it.



On Friday, May 2, 2014, d...@lightstream.net  wrote:

>
>
> I bought a KX3 a few weeks ago and love the radio, but am struggling with
> the operating angle. It'll be fine for the field, but I need to cobble
> together some kind of stand for using it on the desktop.
>
> 73, Dale
>
>
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[Elecraft] Reply to an Elecraft email posting

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

You are apparently receiving posts in Digest form, and yes, replying is 
difficult that way.


I have no problem replying to any posting on the Elecraft reflector - it 
is just like any other email.

How?
First, I have the posts sent as individual emails.
Secondly, I have created a folder under my Inbox called Elecraft
Third, I created an email filter.  Any email with [Elecraft] in the 
subject line is automatically sent to the Elecraft folder.


As a result, all reflector posts are neatly sorted in my Elecraft 
folder, and they do not clutter my main Inbox.  When I want to read 
them, there they are - sort of like my own personal "digest".  My email 
client will even arrange them as  threaded posts should I prefer (but I 
don't).
Replying is just like replying to any email - click 'Reply' to email 
only the sender, 'Reply All' to email to the sender and the Electaft 
list, and my email client (Thunderbird) has a button to "Reply to List" 
which goes only to the list.


You can do that kind of filtering and sorting with most all email 
clients.  Try it, you may like it too.


73
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 9:43 AM, Jerome Sodus wrote:

BTW, I wish I could figure out an easy way to reply to a posting here; I
know I must be doing this the hard way.

73 Jerry KM3K



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Jack Brindle]

Ben;

First thing - connect a serial port from the computer to the KPA500, download 
the latest _released_ KPA500 firmware and install it into the amplifier. It 
contains several things that make the system work together much better, 
especially the KPA and KAT500. The current firmware is V1.38. This is not the 
source of the problem you see, but it will resolve other problems you will 
encounter after you get the cable situation resolved and should be considered 
mandatory for KPA-KAT operations.

You are correct in that serial ports are not relevant to the KPA-K3 
communications. The K3 communicates to the KPA using just the BAND signals and 
PTT line that are in the AUX cable. The KPA communicates to the K3 using the 
AuxBus signal (this is one-way). You will want the K3 to be set to control 
power on a per-band basis. That way it will use an alternate power setting 
whenever the KPA is in OPER mode. In other words, you can set the K3 for 100 
watts out when the KPA is in STBY, or something like 30 watts when the KPA is 
in OPER. This makes operation _much_ nicer.

The problem does sound like the AUX signals aren't getting through the KAT, or 
there may be signals getting through that should not be. Make sure the cable 
agrees with what is described in the KPA manual. The two cables should be 
identical. The KAT is designed to simply pass through the proper signals on the 
bus, make sure that is happening.

Remember, tech support is here if you just can't get it working. Give them a 
shout if need be. As you already know, thee are a lot of cool features to the 
K-system, we want you to enjoy them. Just have to get things going first...

Jack Brindle, W6FB
Elecraft Engineering

Sent from my iPad

> On May 1, 2014, at 9:43 PM, Ben Collins-Sussman  wrote:
> 
>> On Thu, May 1, 2014 at 11:32 PM, W0MU Mike Fatchett  wrote:
>> 
>> Go download the latest beta versions of the firmware and the associated
>> utility programs.
> 
> The K3 is new and has the latest official 4.38 firmware.  The KPA500 is
> about a year old and running firmware 1.23.
> I don't have a usb-serial cable yet, though I can grab one tomorrow at the
> store;  is there a specific bug fixed in some beta firmware release?
> 
> 
>> 
>> Have you set the baud rate in the K3 to that of the amp?
> 
> I see nothing in either manual about the K3 or amp having configurable baud
> rates to communicate with each other.  Do you have details?
> 
> 
>> 
>> When the amp is moved from standby to Operate you should see a message in
>> the K3 that says KPA500.
> 
> I see nothing at all.  This is a 3rd example, I suppose, of the total lack
> of communication between K3 and KPA500.
> Again, keep in mind that the K3 isn't *directly* connected to the KPA500.
> They're actually both connected to the KAT500 tuner, as the diagrams
> specify.
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> I would check the firmware.  I know there is a special button you push on
>> the KAT500 that optimizes operation with the KPA500.
> 
> I see nothing about this in the KAT500 manual, but will look again.
> The connection between tuner and amp has always worked; I haven't touched
> that special DB15 cable at all.  However, perhaps the new DB15 cable that
> arrived with the K3 is physically defective?  I'm digging for hypotheses.
> :-)
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[David Cole]

I must also concur with Dale, et al.  I also have a set of glasses I had
the Optometrist prescribe, and I can not use my bifocals anymore, too
much head movement...  That was th best money I have spent in a long
time.  One thing you might consider is adding an AR coating to them.  

I use ONLY glass lenses, (no polycarbonate), and have them AR coated.
The coating is finally coming off my bifocals after 5 years of heavy
cleaning.  The AR coating is wonderful if you have specular lighting
events around your OP area.  With an AR coating, if you clean your
glasses right, (ultrasonic cleaner), you will not even see them...

-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Fri, 2014-05-02 at 10:08 -0400, d...@lightstream.net wrote:
> I strongly concur w/ Bill's advice about getting a special pair of
> glasses. In my case, as a programmer, I spend all day in front of the
> computer. I have three monitors arranged in front of me, and I found that
> bi-focals definitely had a 'sweet spot' and I was always turning my head
> or looking up/down to see the screens within that sweet spot. I asked the
> eye doc to give me a prescription for single focal length glasses
> optimized for viewing a monitor 27" away. There is no 'sweet spot' and
> while looking at the center (primary) monitor directly in front of me, I
> can shift my eyes to the left or right to see the other two monitors
> without turning my head. I've had these glasses for about 5 years now, and
> they work perfectly.
> 
> Also, in my case, the K-Line is arrayed on the desktop immediately below
> the three monitors, and the central monitor (Samsung) has a front-panel
> switch that allows me to toggle it between the computer and the P3SVGA
> output.
> 
> Side comment: I seem to be in the minority w/ regard to positioning of a
> radio, in that it *must* be on the desktop and not tilted or elevated
> (with the exception of the P3). I like having my arm and hand resting on
> the table top as I tune the radio. Having to tilt my hand upward to tune a
> knob that is up in the air, or worse yet, rest my arm on my elbow while
> trying to tune a radio on a shelf is just plain wrong  ;-)
> 
> I bought a KX3 a few weeks ago and love the radio, but am struggling with
> the operating angle. It'll be fine for the field, but I need to cobble
> together some kind of stand for using it on the desktop.
> 
> 73, Dale
> WA8SRA
> 
> ...
> > Do NOT look up at monitors - it will
> > screw your neck up after a while. Also, I have specially cut glasses for
> > my radio desk. Bifocal for reading and seeing the keyboard - and the
> > upper is set to about 28 or 30 inches - the distance from your eyes to
> > the monitor and radios. Any good glasses shop can do this - it is a
> > common request.
> >
> > ...
> >
> > Bill K-Line
> >
> >
> 
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Ross Primrose]

Another option that may fit in the budget is to buy a monitor and use it 
instead of the iMac display, that'd give you a lot more flexibility in 
monitor location


73, Ross N4RP

On 5/2/2014 7:49 AM, Joel Black wrote:
Shack layout is very personal. I get that. Laying out my shack is a 
hobby within a hobby; however, I cannot seem to get it "just right." 
My wife will walk by and just shake her head.


I bought a late 2012 27" iMac. The thing is a beast! You cannot adjust 
the height of the monitor, but you can adjust the tilt. Compounding 
this problem is that I wear bifocals. Those of you who wear bifocals 
know that keeping your head tilted back trying to read the monitor is 
a PITA! Also, trying to get it the right distance so words are sharp 
is a pain. I *really* wish I had either bought the 21.5" iMac or a 
MBP. I am stuck with what I have for the next several years. Although 
my wife has a MBP, I don't think she'd be willing to trade that 
portability. I don't have the money for a new computer and I have twin 
daughters graduating high school next year so I am saving my pennies 
for a laptop for each of them.


I have a very large desk at my operating position. It is 5' x 3'. It 
is what I would call a wooden teacher's desk or a "not so fancy" 
banker's desk. On the left side is a spring-loaded shelf for a 
type-writer. I usually keep it inside in the down position and use it 
as a bookshelf inside. The right side has three drawers. There is a 
drawer in the middle. The left side is slightly larger than the right; 
therefore, both the monitor and I sit a little off-center to the 
right. I prefer to keep my monitor in the "center" to try and keep my 
neck looking straight forward. I also have a two-drawer wooden file 
cabinet that is the same height as my desk top. Although it is not as 
deep, I can place it on either side of the desk to "extend" the length 
of the desk.


I am right-handed. My radios are on the left; my keys (a paddle and a 
bug) and computer mouse are on the right. I usually tune the radio by 
placing the four fingers of my left hand on top of the radio and tune 
with my left thumb. Most of my radio operations are done with my left 
thumb. I do use my right hand to tune my P3. You can see my shack 
layout on my QRZ page. That layout has changed a bit to where my K3/P3 
are on the middle shelf now with both of them on the right side of 
that shelf. I find it better to see both the K3 and the P3. The rotor 
controller is under them and I have an FT-847 which is to the left of 
the rotor controller. The FT-847 sees very little use. I don't do much 
VHF/UHF FM from home and I don't yet have my antennas built for 
satellite operations.


I have a somewhat minimal hamshack and I'd like to keep it that way. 
iMac in the center of the desk and radios off to one side or the other 
since the monitor is so large and raising it would put undue strain on 
my neck. I love K5ND's layout (http://www.k5nd.net/), but putting that 
monitor up is too much for me. There is no simple way to reduce the 
*height* of the iMac either.


Would anyone be willing to take pictures of their shacks and sending 
them to me? Those who have large monitors would be especially 
appreciated. What have you done that makes your operation easier? I 
plan on buying a sheet of plywood and making a new set of shelves for 
my operating position, but I want some ideas too.


In the interest of list S/N ratio ;), please respond directly to me. 
Thanks.


73,
Joel - W4JBB
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--
FCC Section 97.313(a) “At all times, an amateur station must use the minimum 
transmitter power necessary to carry out the desired communications.”

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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[d...@lightstream.net]

I strongly concur w/ Bill's advice about getting a special pair of
glasses. In my case, as a programmer, I spend all day in front of the
computer. I have three monitors arranged in front of me, and I found that
bi-focals definitely had a 'sweet spot' and I was always turning my head
or looking up/down to see the screens within that sweet spot. I asked the
eye doc to give me a prescription for single focal length glasses
optimized for viewing a monitor 27" away. There is no 'sweet spot' and
while looking at the center (primary) monitor directly in front of me, I
can shift my eyes to the left or right to see the other two monitors
without turning my head. I've had these glasses for about 5 years now, and
they work perfectly.

Also, in my case, the K-Line is arrayed on the desktop immediately below
the three monitors, and the central monitor (Samsung) has a front-panel
switch that allows me to toggle it between the computer and the P3SVGA
output.

Side comment: I seem to be in the minority w/ regard to positioning of a
radio, in that it *must* be on the desktop and not tilted or elevated
(with the exception of the P3). I like having my arm and hand resting on
the table top as I tune the radio. Having to tilt my hand upward to tune a
knob that is up in the air, or worse yet, rest my arm on my elbow while
trying to tune a radio on a shelf is just plain wrong  ;-)

I bought a KX3 a few weeks ago and love the radio, but am struggling with
the operating angle. It'll be fine for the field, but I need to cobble
together some kind of stand for using it on the desktop.

73, Dale
WA8SRA

...
> Do NOT look up at monitors - it will
> screw your neck up after a while. Also, I have specially cut glasses for
> my radio desk. Bifocal for reading and seeing the keyboard - and the
> upper is set to about 28 or 30 inches - the distance from your eyes to
> the monitor and radios. Any good glasses shop can do this - it is a
> common request.
>
> ...
>
> Bill K-Line
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Ben Collins-Sussman]

OK, new test results, followed by an inexplicable resolution to the problem!

I'm comparing the two elecraft-specific DB15 cables here, with the
suspicion that one of them is broken or defective.

1.  *Physical observation*

The K3/KPA cable has all pins present.
The KPA/KAT cable has pins 1, 6, 7 missing.  But it looks deliberate, and
those pins are not used anyway (according to documentation.)
I do not see any bent pins on either cable.


2. *Communication directly between radio and amp*

When I connect the radio and amp directly together using the K3/KPA cable,
three things work:

   - the amp follows the radio's band-switching.
   - placing the amp in OPER causes the radio to print 'KPA500' on the
   screen.
   - keying and amplification works properly.

When I connect the radio and amp directly together using the (slightly
suspect) KPA/KAT cable:

   - the amp follows the radio's band-switching.
   - keying and amplification works properly.

The only unusual thing here is that switching to OPER causes no message on
the K3 screen.


3. *Communication with tuner as 'middleman'*

When I connect the K3/KPA cable from radio to tuner, and connect the
KPA/KAT cable from tuner to amp, things don't work.  The radio and amp do
not communicate at all.

When I *reverse* the two cables above, *everything works perfectly.*


4. *Conclusions*

   - The cables are supposed to be wired identically, and yet they behave
   differently.
   - My problem is now solved, and I don't know why.  :-)
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources

[Jerome Sodus]

Mike W0MU gave a good beginning, only there is more to the story.

(I gave a class on RFI this past February to our club, so the topic is still
fresh in my mind.)

There may be devices in your house or on your grounds that are
battery-operated, run continuously and may emit RFI.

The batteries must be removed to stop that equipment from operating.

BTW, I wish I could figure out an easy way to reply to a posting here; I
know I must be doing this the hard way.

73 Jerry KM3K

 

Message: 19

Date: Thu, 01 May 2014 23:05:20 -0600

From: W0MU Mike Fatchett 

To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources

Message-ID: <53632790.4080...@w0mu.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 

Run the KX3 on battery and turn off your house mains and see if the 

noise goes away.  If not you know to start looking elsewhere.  You might 

also try the RFI reflector.

 

Mike W0MU

 

On 5/1/2014 10:47 PM, Niel Skousen wrote:

> Good Evening All,

> 

> Questions and Advice sought,  i will report back on results...

> (cross posted to qrp-l, elecraft, and kx3)

> 

> I live in a rural area, which should be very low noise.   i put up a OCFD
(88:44) this afternoon, and tonite wandered on to 80m to listen and check
the antenna.   I had 20db over noise everywhere.   40m was showing S4 noise,
and I could only copy about 4 or 5 stations above the noise on 40m (yep, NR
and NB both on, 400hz wide).

> 

> nearest neighbor is 1/4mi away, and I'm the last one on a rural overhead
power line.

> 

> So,  Given a KX3 and internal batteries, my first thought is to build a
small multi-turn electrostatically shielded loop (1ft dia, 3-5 turn in a
copper pipe, 1" gap at top) and see if I can localize any local noise
sources.

> 

> my office and computers are prime targets of course...

> 

> Is this overkill ?

> Recommendations for a better small / near-field noise pickup ?

> Any other advice for first steps ?

> Anyone else chased noise sources with their KX3 ?   How did it work, what
antenna did you use ?

> Other suggestions / recommendations ?

> 

> TIA, 73

> Niel

> WA7SSA

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources

[David Cole]

Hello Niel,
Not sure if this is appropriate for this group, but I'll post a response
and see.  If not, we can take off line...  Your response seems right in
step with where I would be.  You might consider your first step as
running your radio on batteries, and killing power to your home.  If you
are lucky, the RFI will end.  Then just track from there, then go for
the loop.


-- 
Thanks and 73's,
For equipment, and software setups and reviews see:
www.nk7z.net
for MixW support see;
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/mixw/info
for Dopplergram information see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/dopplergram/info
for MM-SSTV see:
http://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/MM-SSTV/info


On Thu, 2014-05-01 at 22:47 -0600, Niel Skousen wrote:
> Good Evening All,   
> 
> Questions and Advice sought,  i will report back on results...
> (cross posted to qrp-l, elecraft, and kx3)
> 
> I live in a rural area, which should be very low noise.   i put up a OCFD 
> (88:44) this afternoon, and tonite wandered on to 80m to listen and check the 
> antenna.   I had 20db over noise everywhere.   40m was showing S4 noise, and 
> I could only copy about 4 or 5 stations above the noise on 40m (yep, NR and 
> NB both on, 400hz wide).
> 
> nearest neighbor is 1/4mi away, and I'm the last one on a rural overhead 
> power line.
> 
> So,  Given a KX3 and internal batteries, my first thought is to build a small 
> multi-turn electrostatically shielded loop (1ft dia, 3-5 turn in a copper 
> pipe, 1" gap at top) and see if I can localize any local noise sources.
> 
> my office and computers are prime targets of course...
> 
> Is this overkill ?  
> Recommendations for a better small / near-field noise pickup ?
> Any other advice for first steps ?
> Anyone else chased noise sources with their KX3 ?   How did it work, what 
> antenna did you use ?
> Other suggestions / recommendations ?
> 
> TIA, 73
> Niel
> WA7SSA
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, the two cables are the same.  Swap them and repeat the test.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/2/2014 8:23 AM, Ben Collins-Sussman wrote:

Is it possible that the cable between tuner and amp is defective (#E850463)?

As I said in my original post, I've been using the tuner and amp together
for 9 months, but with an explicit PA-key line from my KX3.  The external
PA-keying -- along with the amp's automatic bandswitching -- may have
allowed me *not* to notice a total lack of communication between tuner and
amp.  Is there a way to test that cable?  From the documentation, it
appears to have identical wiring to the other 15-pin KPA500-K3 cable which
I know is working.  Maybe I can swap them around and experiment?



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Ben Collins-Sussman]

Many thanks for all the replies so far!  I'm grateful for this reflector.

And a good test result.  If I connect the K3 and KPA500 directly together,
they works perfectly:  the amp follow's the radio's band switches, and the
radio notices when I set the amp from STBY to OPER.  So this tells me that
the radio, amp, and 15-pin ACC cable are all good hardware.

Somehow when the tuner gets between the radio and amp, the radio and amp
stop seeing each other.

I've placed the tuner back between the radio and amp again, and connected
the KAT500 Utility as Dick suggested.  When I make band changes on the K3,
the KAT500 definitely notices.  It makes a 'clunk' sound and the KAT500
Utility's "Operate" tab shows the band changes just fine.  But the KPA500
just sits there, blissfully unaware of the K3.

Is it possible that the cable between tuner and amp is defective (#E850463)?

As I said in my original post, I've been using the tuner and amp together
for 9 months, but with an explicit PA-key line from my KX3.  The external
PA-keying -- along with the amp's automatic bandswitching -- may have
allowed me *not* to notice a total lack of communication between tuner and
amp.  Is there a way to test that cable?  From the documentation, it
appears to have identical wiring to the other 15-pin KPA500-K3 cable which
I know is working.  Maybe I can swap them around and experiment?
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Re: [Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Bill W2BLC]

Get the monitor bottom edge down to desktop level. I used to have my 
monitors about 10 inches above the desk with the rigs beneath them. The 
result was looking up at them. Do NOT look up at monitors - it will 
screw your neck up after a while. Also, I have specially cut glasses for 
my radio desk. Bifocal for reading and seeing the keyboard - and the 
upper is set to about 28 or 30 inches - the distance from your eyes to 
the monitor and radios. Any good glasses shop can do this - it is a 
common request.


The above two points and some neck exercises will go a long way in 
improving your operating fun.


Don't ask how I learned this!

Bill K-Line


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[Elecraft] [OT] K3 Shack Pictures and iMacs

[Joel Black]

Shack layout is very personal. I get that. Laying out my shack is a 
hobby within a hobby; however, I cannot seem to get it "just right." My 
wife will walk by and just shake her head.


I bought a late 2012 27" iMac. The thing is a beast! You cannot adjust 
the height of the monitor, but you can adjust the tilt. Compounding this 
problem is that I wear bifocals. Those of you who wear bifocals know 
that keeping your head tilted back trying to read the monitor is a PITA! 
Also, trying to get it the right distance so words are sharp is a pain. 
I *really* wish I had either bought the 21.5" iMac or a MBP. I am stuck 
with what I have for the next several years. Although my wife has a MBP, 
I don't think she'd be willing to trade that portability. I don't have 
the money for a new computer and I have twin daughters graduating high 
school next year so I am saving my pennies for a laptop for each of them.


I have a very large desk at my operating position. It is 5' x 3'. It is 
what I would call a wooden teacher's desk or a "not so fancy" banker's 
desk. On the left side is a spring-loaded shelf for a type-writer. I 
usually keep it inside in the down position and use it as a bookshelf 
inside. The right side has three drawers. There is a drawer in the 
middle. The left side is slightly larger than the right; therefore, both 
the monitor and I sit a little off-center to the right. I prefer to keep 
my monitor in the "center" to try and keep my neck looking straight 
forward. I also have a two-drawer wooden file cabinet that is the same 
height as my desk top. Although it is not as deep, I can place it on 
either side of the desk to "extend" the length of the desk.


I am right-handed. My radios are on the left; my keys (a paddle and a 
bug) and computer mouse are on the right. I usually tune the radio by 
placing the four fingers of my left hand on top of the radio and tune 
with my left thumb. Most of my radio operations are done with my left 
thumb. I do use my right hand to tune my P3. You can see my shack layout 
on my QRZ page. That layout has changed a bit to where my K3/P3 are on 
the middle shelf now with both of them on the right side of that shelf. 
I find it better to see both the K3 and the P3. The rotor controller is 
under them and I have an FT-847 which is to the left of the rotor 
controller. The FT-847 sees very little use. I don't do much VHF/UHF FM 
from home and I don't yet have my antennas built for satellite operations.


I have a somewhat minimal hamshack and I'd like to keep it that way. 
iMac in the center of the desk and radios off to one side or the other 
since the monitor is so large and raising it would put undue strain on 
my neck. I love K5ND's layout (http://www.k5nd.net/), but putting that 
monitor up is too much for me. There is no simple way to reduce the 
*height* of the iMac either.


Would anyone be willing to take pictures of their shacks and sending 
them to me? Those who have large monitors would be especially 
appreciated. What have you done that makes your operation easier? I plan 
on buying a sheet of plywood and making a new set of shelves for my 
operating position, but I want some ideas too.


In the interest of list S/N ratio ;), please respond directly to me. Thanks.

73,
Joel - W4JBB
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

[Dick Dievendorff]

This sounds like a 15-pin ACC cable problem.  Iain's suggestion to isolate a
defective cable sounds right to me.

RS-232 speeds aren't relevant here. This is the 15-pin ACC connector.  Your
K3, KAT500 and KPA500 do not communicate with one another via RS-232.

If you can connect your PC to the KAT500 and start the KAT500 Utility, it
can tell you if it's seeing the K3's band lines; perform band changes on the
K3 and see if the KAT500 Utility operate page shows the right band.  Or
connect the K3 to the KPA500 directly and see if the K3 follows the KPA500
band changes.

73 de Dick, K6KR


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of iain
macdonnell - N6ML
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 22:00 PM
To: Ben Collins-Sussman
Cc: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 not responding to K3

On Thu, May 1, 2014 at 9:11 PM, Ben Collins-Sussman 
wrote:
> Hello friends,
>
> I've been using my tiny KX3 with a KPA500 and KAT500 for many months now.
>  The KX3 only puts out 12 watts, but the KPA500 translates it 
> successfully into about 200W.  The KPA500 and KAT500 have been 
> connected via the official DB15 cable sold by Elecraft, and the KX3 
> triggers the amp via RCA cable into the amp's PA-key connector.
>
> Fast-forward to today:  I just received a K3, and I'm really excited 
> to see the K3, KPA500, and KAT500 all just "work together" magically.  
> Except they're not.
>
> I've connected everything exactly as shown in the KAT500 manual:
>
>- K3's ACC port is connected to the tuner's XCVR port, via the official
>KPAK3AUX cable.
>- The tuner's AMP port is connected to the amp's AUX port, via the
>official E850463 cable.
>
> I'm definitely able to use the K3 and tuner together when the amp is off.
>  But when I turn on the amp, there appears to be no communication 
> between amp and K3.
>
>- The amp doesn't notice when I change bands on the K3.
>- The amp won't let me change bands at all, even when I push its band
>buttons!
>- When I put the amp into OPER and transmit 15 or 20W from the K3, the
>amp doesn't appear to "key" and amplify.  It just shows the exact 20W
as
>passing through (on it's 'power' display.)
>
> I've verified that the amp's RADIO option is set to 'K3'.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas?

What happens if you connect the K3 directly to the KPA500 (i.e. remove the
KAT500 from the picture, temporarily) ? If they still don't cooperate, try
the other cable

73,

~iain / N6ML
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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Linux and HRD not on speaking terms

[Bill W2BLC]

I just spent a couple of hours in an attempt to understand and use the 
WineTricks information. It was a no go for me, I just do not have the 
expertise and Linus skills required.


Has anyone else tried this approach?

Bill K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] K3: Linux and HRD not on speaking terms

[Stewart Bryant]

You might look at:

https://appdb.winehq.org/objectManager.php?sClass=version&iId=26721

The note about winetricks seems to be important.

I have not tried this myself, but it is on the list of things to 
experiment with.


Stewart/G3YSX


On 02/05/2014 01:00, Troy,w6hv wrote:

I'm having the same problem. One big drawback for me is that I am very
new to Linux. I tried N4PY's Pegasus Plus. When attempting to set up the
com port, it said every port was "already in use"???
Troy (also, K-line)

-Original Message- From: Bill W2BLC
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2014 4:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K3: Linux and HRD not on speaking terms

Gotta luv the K-Line, but I just cannot make the change to Linux due to
the lack of a K3 rig control program that will operate under Linux. I
have been playing with various distros and have pretty much settled on
Linux Mint 13 Maya. It does everything I routinely need except: It will
not run HRD under Wine.

I get the program to load, however I cannot get Wine to recognize the
USB port serial converter. Linux says it is there - Wine knows nothing
of it. Hence, HRD has no means to communicate with the K3. Has anyone
found a way to run HRD (old version only used for rig control) under
Wine on Linux? I have not gone to the dark side of virtual anything and
would prefer not to.

It may be that I will set up the K3 on its own dedicated Winners
computer and the desk computer for everything else on Linux. Easier, but
where's the challenge?

Suggestions or direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Bill K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 & Chasing local HF noise sources

[Jim Brown]

On 5/1/2014 11:14 PM, K8JHR wrote:
My friend in Germany is making a serious study of common mode noise on 
OCF dipoles, and from his work I know you must bring the transmission 
line away at a 90 degree angle


It's MUCH more than that. OCF (off-center-fed) antennas (dipole implies 
balance) are badly unbalanced, which places a very high common mode 
voltage across a common mode choke because of their high degree of 
imbalance, which tends to fry (destroy) the common mode choke with high 
power.


The OCF antenna is an idea whose time is LONG past. In that long past 
time, it offered a broadbanded solution that was "OK," but not great, 
and in that long past time, noise was much less of a problem. Sadly, 
noise is a BIG problem, and that makes OCF antennas a really bad idea.


73, Jim K9YC
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