date:20160204


Bill,

After you do the initial TUNE (training the ATU), do you switch it to 
MAN?  If not try that and see if it corrects your situation.

If not, then it is time to contact support.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2016 4:17 PM, Bill wrote:
For the past month I have been experiencing tuning problems with the 
KAT500.


The antenna in question is a simple 75 meter dipole fed with coax. You 
tune the antenna at 3922, 2955 and 3975 - just for example. When you 
return to those frequencies, a few hours later, the tuning is all off 
and the KPA500 demos its displeasure by beeping and flashing lights. 
Retuning will again hold for a few hours, then all goes haywire again.


I have given shake test to the antenna/halyards -  with an analog SWR 
bridge in line - and see nothing to indicate breaks or damage. I 
replaced the feed line and it still does everything the same. All coax 
lines inside have also been changed out - to no avail.


I should mention that this problem exists on an alternate antenna 
also. The alternate is also a dipole type. No remote baluns, nothing 
other than simple center insulators. Chances are they are built 
properly - been doing it for over 55 years and have never experienced 
anything like this.


I have reset the KAT500 to default a couple of times - reinstalled the 
software - all the things you do with black boxes - went through the 
training thing. I spoken with Elecraft and followed their instructions 
to the letter also (which were the same as what I had been doing). It 
all holds well for a few hours, then goes wacko.




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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


Jim,

If your balanced feedline comes into the shack and you are running QRP, 
take a look at the Elecraft BL2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2016 3:55 PM, Jim Allen wrote:

K2/100 and KAT100 here.

I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using 
the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced feedline 
antennas.

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always run 
5 watts, all CW.

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen

Sent from my iPad
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[Elecraft] KAT500 Change Idea

2016-02-04 Thread Harry Yingst via Elecraft


Is it to have a change made to the KAT500 firmware so we could lock it in 
Manual Mode
or Maybe use a double tap to change mode and still a press and hold to turn it 
off


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

2016-02-04 Thread Walter Underwood

Balun Designs makes high quality baluns at fair prices.

http://www.balundesigns.com/ 

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Feb 4, 2016, at 1:11 PM, Bert Craig  wrote:
> 
> I have to firmly vouch for Balun Concepts.
> 
> Sent from my android device.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Allen 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thu, 04 Feb 2016 15:55
> Subject: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions
> 
> K2/100 and KAT100 here.
> 
> I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using 
> the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced 
> feedline antennas.
> 
> What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always 
> run 5 watts, all CW.
> 
> 73 de W6OGC Jim Allen 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

2016-02-04 Thread Mel Farrer via Elecraft

Don't by-pass the Elecraft BL-2  $40  250 W 4:1 and 1:1 select able .
Mel, K6KBE

 

  From: Walter Underwood 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, February 4, 2016 1:17 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions
   
Balun Designs makes high quality baluns at fair prices.

http://www.balundesigns.com/ 

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On Feb 4, 2016, at 1:11 PM, Bert Craig  wrote:
> 
> I have to firmly vouch for Balun Concepts.
> 
> Sent from my android device.
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jim Allen 
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Sent: Thu, 04 Feb 2016 15:55
> Subject: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions
> 
> K2/100 and KAT100 here.
> 
> I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using 
> the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced 
> feedline antennas.
> 
> What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always 
> run 5 watts, all CW.
> 
> 73 de W6OGC Jim Allen 
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> __
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[Elecraft] WTB: K2/10

2016-02-04 Thread sp2bpd via Elecraft

I'm looking for a K2/10 (QRP) in perfect condition.

Preferably with high serial number.

With options (at least):
* KAT2
* KSB2
* either KAF2 or  KDSP2

Shipping to address in U.S. or in Poland.

Regards

Piotr, SP2BPD











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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

As one that has personally used a balanced fed antennas for years, I 
suggest you review the info on this site.

 http://www.dj0ip.de/balun-stuff/ 

Good stuff on evaluating or building a proper balun.

And for open wire fed antennas:
http://www.dj0ip.de/open-wire-fed-ant/

To answer your question, a high power 1:1 current balun is likely best.  
Of course you could built a balanced tuner as I did.  Problem solved.  
That's another story.


Keep in mind that balun power ratings are for "matched" conditions. 
Which in fact is never the case with a center fed wire and open wire or 
a  balanced feed line.  At a mighty 5 watts it would not be of concern.


If at all possible, run the balanced feed line from the antenna feed 
point all the way to the operating position.  Keep the coax run between 
the tuner output and balun input as short as practical. After all, the 
reason to use balanced feed line is to take advantage of the low loss 
properties.


Never fear, the use of balanced feed line is not near as critical or 
fussy as the "masses" will so tout.  Many hams express fear in using 
balanced feed systems, largely because of what they have heard. Mostly 
because it frankly isn't fact.  Mine feeds a 256 ft center fed wire and 
comes down the tower supported on home made 9" PVC stand-offs, through 
the attic eve vent, across the roof rafters, and drops down through the 
ceiling to the tuner on the shelf above the desk.  Not bad for a 160M - 
10M antenna.{see my pix on QRZ.COM that shows a bit of the line 
going up the wall.}


73
Bob, K4TAX



On 2/4/2016 2:55 PM, Jim Allen wrote:

K2/100 and KAT100 here.

I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using 
the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced feedline 
antennas.

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always run 
5 watts, all CW.

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 For Sale

2016-02-04 Thread K0ZL

SOLD!!!  Thank you.

Dan, K0ZL



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Re: [Elecraft] VP8SGI

2016-02-04 Thread ab2tc

Hi all,

I am glad they are working on repairs. I worked them on South Sandwich in
spite of them being right at my noise level. From South Georgia I have had
nothing but a whisper. Hopefully this will change once they get their
repairs done. This is an all time first for me (both of them). I like their
web site, but it is missing a news section that could be updated (by the
pilots) daily or close to daily. Many other DXpeditions have had this.

AB2TC - Knut


Doug Turnbull wrote
> Dear OMS
> W3UR released this note in the Daily DX but as it is commonly
> available
> on the internet and a general release I do not think he will take offence.
> 
> 
> Right now, VP8SGI team is working on tents and antennas repairs. Due to
> the
> strong winds, they have lost two masts. Tri-bander antennas are on the
> ground and Six meters antenna mast will be used to rise one of the
> tri-bander.
>  
> After antenna works, they will be again on the air pushing hard to get
> everyone in the log. N6PSE will try on six meters SSB today if he finally
> is
> able to find a pipe where to install 6 meters antenna. 
>  
> New pictures will be posted later today in our website:
> http://www.intrepid-dx.com/vp8/photos.php
>  
> EA5RM - VP8STI/VP8SGI Chief Pilot
>  73 Doug EI2CN
> 
> PS It has not been easy for them and I believe that tent repairs were also
> part of the work for today.   This is no holiday style operation.   We
> should all contribute something to help with the expenses not yet paid
> for.
> 





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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Computer Audio Question with Sub RX installed

2016-02-04 Thread Bill Frantz

Thanks Richard. I had not thought of running two copies, as that 
is an "unnatural act" for a Mac. The Mac will do it, but it 
takes two copies of the program (so the Mac thinks they are 
different programs).


Running two copies also solves the problem of wanting to operate 
JT modes while copying a W1AW RTTY builtin on an different band.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 2/4/16 at 5:36 AM, ve3...@storm.ca (Richard Ferch) wrote:

Fldigi versions since 3.22.06 have the capability of decoding 
from either the left or the right channel of a sound card. You 
can use a command-line argument to tell fldigi which 
configuration files to use You would run two instances of 
fldigi with different configuration files, one configured to 
use the left channel of a sound card on receive and the other 
configured to use the right channel of the same sound card. 
With this kind of setup there is no need for two sound cards.


Programs like MMTTY that store their configuration information 
in a file in the program directory can also be used for dual 
receive. Simply set up two separate copies of the program in 
different directories, and then configure them to use the left 
and right channels of the sound card respectively.


For basic dual RX receive that's all you need. Rig control and 
transmit capability add complications that depend on the 
specific hardware and software you are using. Note that if you 
want to be able to transmit on the VFO B frequency, both 
receivers must be in the same band. This is a transceiver 
limitation - the K3/K3S will not do cross-band transmit.


73,
Rich VE3KI


---
Bill Frantz|"Web security is like medicine - trying to 
do good for

408-356-8506   |an evolved body of kludges" - Mark Miller
www.pwpconsult.com |

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[Elecraft] Fwd: KX3 IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification?

2016-02-04 Thread John Lawrence via Elecraft


 
 







Matt 
 
Thanks for your suggestion.  I am trying to understand what it took to reach 
this level of SDR performance knowing the specs of the IQ ADC on the receive 
side and IQ DAC on the TX side of the archritecture of the KX3.  Current drain 
isn't my concern except in the case of the KX3, it must be able to support 
battery use in the targeted application.  I'm hoping a factory response is 
received too.
 
Thanks John
 
W1QS
 
 
 
 
-Original Message-
From: Matt Maguire 
To: John Lawrence ; elecraft 
Sent: Fri, Feb 5, 2016 1:31 am
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification?



Judging by the anti-aliasing filters, I would guess maybe 48k samples per 
second, 24 bits per sample. Could be higher at 96k which could reduce noise 
slightly via decimation, but that would probably consume extra power and not be 
worth it. But does it really matter? That is all internal to the radio, and is 
not exposed on any of the external interfaces.


73, Matt VK2RQ


Envoyé via Outlook Mobile



_
From: John Lawrence via Elecraft 
Sent: vendredi, février 5, 2016 4:45 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification?
To:  


I am trying to determine the IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification in the KX3.I'm 
interested in
determinng how many bits and the speed...Bit resolution and samples per second? 
 

Thanks
 

John, W1QS
 




  


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


On Thu,2/4/2016 5:35 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
Even though we often refer to the output of the KAT500 (or any other 
device that normally connects to a coaxial line, the currents on the 
output should be equal and opposite - which is the definition of 
balanced.


Sorry, that is NOT the definition of "balance." Balance is defined by 
equal potential to the reference plane, which for most land-based 
antennas is either the earth or the chassis of the transmitter that 
feeds it, which is usually ground referenced.


Consider the currents between the center conductor and the inside of 
the shield for coax.  They must be equal and opposite.  It is the 
common mode current on the outside of the feedline that produces any 
unbalance. 


No, the common mode current is the RESULT of imbalance. AND -- common 
mode current is present in two-wire feedlines when the antenna or the 
transmitter is unbalanced.  In those 2-wire feedlines, common mode 
current is the DIFFERENCE between the current in the two conductors.


Note also that feedlines have wavelength, and both voltage and current 
vary along the line. The DIFFERENTIAL voltage and current vary as a 
function of the behavior of the line as a transmission line, with Vf 
being that of the line. The COMMON MODE voltage and current vary along 
the line as a function of the line's behavior as an ANTENNA, where Vf is 
determined by the insulation on the outer conductor(s), so  is 0.98 - 0.99.


I laugh at those who attempt to measure current in both sides of a 
2-wire line and think that what they have measured is the current at 
every point on the line. It is not -- it's only the current at the point 
you measured it, and it's only right there if your measurement technique 
is without error. Which ain't easy.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] VP8SGI

2016-02-04 Thread ab2tc

Hi all,

Darn, I must have missed them. I went  to bed and got back up again at
1:30AM EST local time (couldn't sleep). No luck on 40m anymore. I hope, too,
that their antenna repairs will result in audible signals on the higher
bands tomorrow.

AB2TC - Knut


dyarnes-2 wrote
> I don't know what they did today on their antennas, but they are sure LOUD 
> tonight on 40 meters  Hope that translates to better sigs on the
> higher 
> bands as well.  Good job guys!  I'm no propagation guru, but I sure think
> it 
> is amazing how their signals on 40 and 30 have been so much better here
> than 
> on the higher bands, and at both islands.  I suppose the MUF is in play,
> but 
> it still is intriguing.
> 
> Dave W7AQK
> 





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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

2016-02-04 Thread Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO


Jim,

You might find that on some bands your antenna tunes better with a 1:1 
balun and on others with a 4:1. Therefore, I recommend the Elecraft 
balun, which is switchable. It's rated at 250w so it should be adequate.


73,
Vic, 4X6GP/K2VCO
Rehovot, Israel
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/

On 4 Feb 2016 22:55, Jim Allen wrote:

K2/100 and KAT100 here.

I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have
been using the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100
with balanced feedline antennas.

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost
always run 5 watts, all CW.

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen

Sent from my iPad

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuning problem

2016-02-04 Thread Jim Miller

Since you are running KPA500 along with the KAT500 and you stated you don't
have a balun, I assume you don't have a common mode choke either.

I suggest a trip to http://audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf as I suspect
you have RF in the shack.

73

jim ab3cv



On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 7:11 PM, Wes (N7WS)  wrote:

> After a good tune, I would use the KAT500 utility to examine and record
> the selected component values.
>
> When the failure occurs, before retuning I would look at them again and
> see if they are the same.
>
> Also after a good tune, I would run up and down the band to cycle the
> relays and see if things are the same when returning to a previously tuned
> band segment.
>
> On 2/4/2016 2:17 PM, Bill wrote:
>
>> For the past month I have been experiencing tuning problems with the
>> KAT500.
>>
>> The antenna in question is a simple 75 meter dipole fed with coax. You
>> tune the antenna at 3922, 2955 and 3975 - just for example. When you return
>> to those frequencies, a few hours later, the tuning is all off and the
>> KPA500 demos its displeasure by beeping and flashing lights. Retuning will
>> again hold for a few hours, then all goes haywire again.
>>
>> I have given shake test to the antenna/halyards -  with an analog SWR
>> bridge in line - and see nothing to indicate breaks or damage. I replaced
>> the feed line and it still does everything the same. All coax lines inside
>> have also been changed out - to no avail.
>>
>> I should mention that this problem exists on an alternate antenna also.
>> The alternate is also a dipole type. No remote baluns, nothing other than
>> simple center insulators. Chances are they are built properly - been doing
>> it for over 55 years and have never experienced anything like this.
>>
>> I have reset the KAT500 to default a couple of times - reinstalled the
>> software - all the things you do with black boxes - went through the
>> training thing. I spoken with Elecraft and followed their instructions to
>> the letter also (which were the same as what I had been doing). It all
>> holds well for a few hours, then goes wacko.
>>
>> If I have to push the buttons every time I QSY, there is little reason to
>> continuing using the KAT500. Of course that makes using the KPA500 more
>> difficult or impossible.
>>
>> Shipping is expensive and so are service charges - the tuner is way out
>> of warranty.
>>
>> Anyone have experiences such as these or suggestions?
>>
>> I am seriously considering regressing to a manual tuner.
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Bill W2BLC K-Line
>>
>>
>>
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification?

2016-02-04 Thread Matt Maguire

Judging by the anti-aliasing filters, I would guess maybe 48k samples per 
second, 24 bits per sample. Could be higher at 96k which could reduce noise 
slightly via decimation, but that would probably consume extra power and not be 
worth it. But does it really matter? That is all internal to the radio, and is 
not exposed on any of the external interfaces.
73, Matt VK2RQ

Envoyé via Outlook Mobile

_
From: John Lawrence via Elecraft 
Sent: vendredi, février 5, 2016 4:45 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification?
To:  




I am trying to determine the IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification in the KX3.I'm 
interested in
determinng how many bits and the speed...Bit resolution and samples per second? 
 

Thanks
 

John, W1QS
 


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[Elecraft] K3 in Very Heavy DQRM on 40M CW......

2016-02-04 Thread W5RDW

I thought I would try VP8SGI this evening on 40M, since I had not tried 40
due to the horrible DQRM almost every night on their TX frequency. They were
pretty loud tonight here in NTx (10-15 dB above noise floor). I use a Delta
Loop at 50 feet. A DQRM was "almost" zero beat on their frequency and 20 to
30 dB louder than them, making it near impossible to copy them. And to top
it off, there were also a few signals very near their Tx frequency also. I
cranked the K3 filter down as far as it would go (50Hz) and tuned the VFO A
just ever so slightly to maximize the SGI copy and throw a few dB more
rejection on the DQRM. After a few seconds, I could copy him clearly to make
the contact. 

This was the first time I have had to use that much filtering to make a
contact!




-
Roger W5RDW
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-in-Very-Heavy-DQRM-on-40M-CW-tp7613568.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


I was wrong.  Clearly, I'm dreaming.

On 2/4/2016 5:38 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Wes,

I don't mean to be contentious, but under ideal conditions, what Ron said is 
true.  Even though we often refer to the output of the KAT500 (or any other 
device that normally connects to a coaxial line, the currents on the output 
should be equal and opposite - which is the definition of balanced.
Consider the currents between the center conductor and the inside of the 
shield for coax.  They must be equal and opposite.  It is the common mode 
current on the outside of the feedline that produces any unbalance.


So connecting a balanced feedline to a PL-259 is not so far fetched - 
providing the shell of the PL-259 (and enclosure of the KAT500) is not 
grounded.  If you have decided to ground your KAT500, then you would need to 
use a balun - so "it all depends". Be aware of "sneak grounds".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2016 7:17 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
I just pinched myself; I'm not dreaming and it's not April 1st, so I guess 
you're serious.


You are also so wrong on so many points, I'm not going to waste time trying 
to refute or correct them.


Jim, please ignore everything said below.

Wes  N7WS



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

The purpose of a Noise Blanker is to act only on repetitive pulse type 
noise.  They do little to nothing for random type noise issues.


73
Bob, K4TAX

On 2/4/2016 5:29 PM, W5RDW wrote:

I think the Collins NB was most effective on pulse type (ignition) noise
encountered in mobile applications.

http://collinsradio.org/archives/manuals/136B-2_5th-ed-11-66_.pdf







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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers


In an earlier post it was asked:

"> I would also like to see a technical description beyond the

hand-waving in the manual of how noise  blanking is performed.  For
example, I fail to see any dedicated  delay in the signal path to
create timing coincidence between the  noise pulse and the blanking
gate.  Perhaps it's inherent in the  design, but I would like to see
some words that say so.

If it's going to be necessary for me to  set a blanking threshold
(something I think could be automatic)  then why can't the radio
generate a blanking pulse that persists  as long as that threshold is
exceeded.  Why do I also have to adjust  that?  If the pulse is so long
that intelligibility suffers then that  noise isn't amenable to being
blanked and blanking needs to be  disabled."



Thus the various discussions and references have appeared.

73
Bob, K4TAX

On 2/4/2016 6:21 PM, Tim Tucker wrote:

What, exactly, does the discussion of the Collins NB filter have to do with
the experimental NB thing Wayne is working on?  Can we stick to the topic
at hand?

On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 3:46 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
wrote:


The purpose of a Noise Blanker is to act only on repetitive pulse type
noise.  They do little to nothing for random type noise issues.

73
Bob, K4TAX

On 2/4/2016 5:29 PM, W5RDW wrote:


I think the Collins NB was most effective on pulse type (ignition) noise
encountered in mobile applications.

http://collinsradio.org/archives/manuals/136B-2_5th-ed-11-66_.pdf






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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers


I owned a 75A-4 once, but I never thought to use it mobile:-)

On 2/4/2016 4:29 PM, W5RDW wrote:

I think the Collins NB was most effective on pulse type (ignition) noise
encountered in mobile applications.

http://collinsradio.org/archives/manuals/136B-2_5th-ed-11-66_.pdf




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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


Wes,

I don't mean to be contentious, but under ideal conditions, what Ron 
said is true.  Even though we often refer to the output of the KAT500 
(or any other device that normally connects to a coaxial line, the 
currents on the output should be equal and opposite - which is the 
definition of balanced.
Consider the currents between the center conductor and the inside of the 
shield for coax.  They must be equal and opposite.  It is the common 
mode current on the outside of the feedline that produces any unbalance.


So connecting a balanced feedline to a PL-259 is not so far fetched - 
providing the shell of the PL-259 (and enclosure of the KAT500) is not 
grounded.  If you have decided to ground your KAT500, then you would 
need to use a balun - so "it all depends".  Be aware of "sneak grounds".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2016 7:17 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
I just pinched myself; I'm not dreaming and it's not April 1st, so I 
guess you're serious.


You are also so wrong on so many points, I'm not going to waste time 
trying to refute or correct them.


Jim, please ignore everything said below.

Wes  N7WS



On 2/4/2016 3:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
Your feed line will do the job by itself so no additional "balun" is 
needed.
Keep in mind that a 1:1 balun is really just a length of feed line, 
usually
wound on a toroidal core to make the required length shorter than if 
it was
in open air. The "old-school" baluns were just a pair of air wound 
coils.


If your balanced feed line is at least 1/4 wavelength long, the currents
will be "balanced" (equal and out of phase) at the antenna. That assumes
your antenna is perfectly balanced to provide a perfectly balanced load,
which "balanced" antennas almost never do. There are just too many
variables. So expect excellent results even with shorter feed lines. The
amount of radiation (or pickup) from the feed line even at the rig 
end is

small in any case.

Connect one side of the open wire feed line to the KAT100 SO-239 
center pin

and the other to the KAT100 ground terminal.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
K2/100 and KAT100 here.

I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have 
been using

the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced
feedline antennas.

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost 
always

run 5 watts, all CW.

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuning problem

2016-02-04 Thread Bill

I have done the reading of the printout - some really crazy SWR numbers 
for the antenna that I know are not correct.


So far as RF in the shack - I might consider that - if things had not 
been working correctly until abut a month ago. Nothing has changed until 
then, causing all the efforts and modifications to isolate the problem. 
Other rigs - with ATUs - are working just fine with the entire station.


Everything RF is brought into the house to a well grounded bulkhead. 
Longest run from any rig/amp/tuner is 6 feet to the bulkhead. 
Interconnects are all as short as possible. Equipment is all connected 
to a central grounding point. In other words - been there and done that 
out of habit.


Tonight I am running barefoot with the antenna running direct to the K3 
- all is good. Tomorrow I will try to get everything back to where it 
was before this mess started and tune when I QSO as a routine and forget 
whatever else the tuner is supposed to do. Sure reminds me of what it 
was doing when I first got it.


A manual tuner will be ordered very soon and the KAT500 removed from the 
lineup.


I don't see a magic bullet on this - thanks for all the ideas.

Bill W2BLC




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuning problem

2016-02-04 Thread john

It is possible that you have bad coax, a bad connection or water ingress in
your antenna system. It would be interesting to see if a manual tuner
remains stable.

John KK9A



Bill w2blc at nycap.rr.com 
Thu Feb 4 19:39:04 EST 2016
for the antenna that I know are not correct.

So far as RF in the shack - I might consider that - if things had not 
been working correctly until abut a month ago. Nothing has changed until 
then, causing all the efforts and modifications to isolate the problem. 
Other rigs - with ATUs - are working just fine with the entire station.

Everything RF is brought into the house to a well grounded bulkhead. 
Longest run from any rig/amp/tuner is 6 feet to the bulkhead. 
Interconnects are all as short as possible. Equipment is all connected 
to a central grounding point. In other words - been there and done that 
out of habit.

Tonight I am running barefoot with the antenna running direct to the K3 
- all is good. Tomorrow I will try to get everything back to where it 
was before this mess started and tune when I QSO as a routine and forget 
whatever else the tuner is supposed to do. Sure reminds me of what it 
was doing when I first got it.

A manual tuner will be ordered very soon and the KAT500 removed from the 
lineup.

I don't see a magic bullet on this - thanks for all the ideas.

Bill W2BLC

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT500 tuning problem

After a good tune, I would use the KAT500 utility to examine and record the 
selected component values.


When the failure occurs, before retuning I would look at them again and see if 
they are the same.


Also after a good tune, I would run up and down the band to cycle the relays and 
see if things are the same when returning to a previously tuned band segment.


On 2/4/2016 2:17 PM, Bill wrote:

For the past month I have been experiencing tuning problems with the KAT500.

The antenna in question is a simple 75 meter dipole fed with coax. You tune 
the antenna at 3922, 2955 and 3975 - just for example. When you return to 
those frequencies, a few hours later, the tuning is all off and the KPA500 
demos its displeasure by beeping and flashing lights. Retuning will again hold 
for a few hours, then all goes haywire again.


I have given shake test to the antenna/halyards -  with an analog SWR bridge 
in line - and see nothing to indicate breaks or damage. I replaced the feed 
line and it still does everything the same. All coax lines inside have also 
been changed out - to no avail.


I should mention that this problem exists on an alternate antenna also. The 
alternate is also a dipole type. No remote baluns, nothing other than simple 
center insulators. Chances are they are built properly - been doing it for 
over 55 years and have never experienced anything like this.


I have reset the KAT500 to default a couple of times - reinstalled the 
software - all the things you do with black boxes - went through the training 
thing. I spoken with Elecraft and followed their instructions to the letter 
also (which were the same as what I had been doing). It all holds well for a 
few hours, then goes wacko.


If I have to push the buttons every time I QSY, there is little reason to 
continuing using the KAT500. Of course that makes using the KPA500 more 
difficult or impossible.


Shipping is expensive and so are service charges - the tuner is way out of 
warranty.


Anyone have experiences such as these or suggestions?

I am seriously considering regressing to a manual tuner.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC K-Line



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

2016-02-04 Thread Tim Tucker

What, exactly, does the discussion of the Collins NB filter have to do with
the experimental NB thing Wayne is working on?  Can we stick to the topic
at hand?

On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 3:46 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
wrote:

> The purpose of a Noise Blanker is to act only on repetitive pulse type
> noise.  They do little to nothing for random type noise issues.
>
> 73
> Bob, K4TAX
>
> On 2/4/2016 5:29 PM, W5RDW wrote:
>
>> I think the Collins NB was most effective on pulse type (ignition) noise
>> encountered in mobile applications.
>>
>> http://collinsradio.org/archives/manuals/136B-2_5th-ed-11-66_.pdf
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


On Thu,2/4/2016 12:55 PM, Jim Allen wrote:

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always run 
5 watts, all CW.


k9yc.com/RFI-Ham.pdf  Since you're running QRP, a single 2.4-in o.d. #31 
core is all you need. Study the data in Appendix One for small diameter 
wire, and wind the number of turns of your coax through it that puts the 
impedance peak in the frequency range where you want to operate.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun Sugestions

2016-02-04 Thread Jim Allen

Thanks, Bob.

I have scoured Rick's website for some time, on this and other topics, and 
corresponded with him extensively about various ideas.  I've also read dozens 
of web pages about baluns, any number of threads at QRZ.com on the topic as 
well.  There are confusing, contradictory and often mutually exclusive points 
of view and no clear direction how to go for those of us whose understanding of 
these things is fairly shallow.  Each approach has disadvantages, detractors 
and claimed limitations, it seems.

I could easily make a balun with a ferrite toroid core, as shown by G3TXQ with 
10-12 turns of some RG8x, which I have in hand, pop it in a box with a couple 
of connectors, and have a go with that.  I am sensitive to losses, since with 
QRP and modest antennas due to external limitations, I have no dbs to waste.  I 
need to have one, or two, good multi band antennas.  I try to avoid store 
bought antennas, and anything with radials are a no-go here on the Rock Ranch..

I just started using the KAT100.  Pretty slick.  With a good quality balun, it 
has some attractive features, replacing the AH-4.  I have also been tempted by 
the MFJ974HB balanced tuner.  No balun needed but no KAT100 needed either.  I 
wish I could find the parts to roll my own!

I have been using balanced feed lines for the various antennas since I moved 
here ~30 months ago with gratifying results.

Keep the suggestions coming!

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen 
Message: 23
Date: Thu, 4 Feb 2016 17:10:39 -0600
From: Bob McGraw K4TAX 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions
Message-ID: <56b3da6f.3090...@blomand.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

As one that has personally used a balanced fed antennas for years, I 
suggest you review the info on this site.
 http://www.dj0ip.de/balun-stuff/ 

Good stuff on evaluating or building a proper balun.

And for open wire fed antennas:
http://www.dj0ip.de/open-wire-fed-ant/

To answer your question, a high power 1:1 current balun is likely best.  
Of course you could built a balanced tuner as I did.  Problem solved.  
That's another story.

Keep in mind that balun power ratings are for "matched" conditions. 
Which in fact is never the case with a center fed wire and open wire or 
a  balanced feed line.  At a mighty 5 watts it would not be of concern.

If at all possible, run the balanced feed line from the antenna feed 
point all the way to the operating position.  Keep the coax run between 
the tuner output and balun input as short as practical. After all, the 
reason to use balanced feed line is to take advantage of the low loss 
properties.

Never fear, the use of balanced feed line is not near as critical or 
fussy as the "masses" will so tout.  Many hams express fear in using 
balanced feed systems, largely because of what they have heard. Mostly 
because it frankly isn't fact.  Mine feeds a 256 ft center fed wire and 
comes down the tower supported on home made 9" PVC stand-offs, through 
the attic eve vent, across the roof rafters, and drops down through the 
ceiling to the tuner on the shelf above the desk.  Not bad for a 160M - 
10M antenna.{see my pix on QRZ.COM that shows a bit of the line 
going up the wall.}

73
Bob, K4TAX

Sent from my iPad
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

2016-02-04 Thread Jim Miller

I suggest reading work by w9cf before getting concerned about balancing tuners. 

http://fermi.la.asu.edu/w9cf/articles/balun/index.html

On Feb 4, 2016, at 7:38 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Wes,

I don't mean to be contentious, but under ideal conditions, what Ron said is 
true.  Even though we often refer to the output of the KAT500 (or any other 
device that normally connects to a coaxial line, the currents on the output 
should be equal and opposite - which is the definition of balanced.
Consider the currents between the center conductor and the inside of the shield 
for coax.  They must be equal and opposite.  It is the common mode current on 
the outside of the feedline that produces any unbalance.

So connecting a balanced feedline to a PL-259 is not so far fetched - providing 
the shell of the PL-259 (and enclosure of the KAT500) is not grounded.  If you 
have decided to ground your KAT500, then you would need to use a balun - so "it 
all depends".  Be aware of "sneak grounds".

73,
Don W3FPR

> On 2/4/2016 7:17 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
> I just pinched myself; I'm not dreaming and it's not April 1st, so I guess 
> you're serious.
> 
> You are also so wrong on so many points, I'm not going to waste time trying 
> to refute or correct them.
> 
> Jim, please ignore everything said below.
> 
> Wes  N7WS
> 
> 
> 
>> On 2/4/2016 3:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>> Your feed line will do the job by itself so no additional "balun" is needed.
>> Keep in mind that a 1:1 balun is really just a length of feed line, usually
>> wound on a toroidal core to make the required length shorter than if it was
>> in open air. The "old-school" baluns were just a pair of air wound coils.
>> 
>> If your balanced feed line is at least 1/4 wavelength long, the currents
>> will be "balanced" (equal and out of phase) at the antenna. That assumes
>> your antenna is perfectly balanced to provide a perfectly balanced load,
>> which "balanced" antennas almost never do. There are just too many
>> variables. So expect excellent results even with shorter feed lines. The
>> amount of radiation (or pickup) from the feed line even at the rig end is
>> small in any case.
>> 
>> Connect one side of the open wire feed line to the KAT100 SO-239 center pin
>> and the other to the KAT100 ground terminal.
>> 
>> 73, Ron AC7AC
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> K2/100 and KAT100 here.
>> 
>> I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using
>> the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced
>> feedline antennas.
>> 
>> What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always
>> run 5 watts, all CW.
>> 
>> 73 de W6OGC Jim Allen
>> 
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

I just pinched myself; I'm not dreaming and it's not April 1st, so I guess 
you're serious.


You are also so wrong on so many points, I'm not going to waste time trying to 
refute or correct them.


Jim, please ignore everything said below.

Wes  N7WS



On 2/4/2016 3:05 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

Your feed line will do the job by itself so no additional "balun" is needed.
Keep in mind that a 1:1 balun is really just a length of feed line, usually
wound on a toroidal core to make the required length shorter than if it was
in open air. The "old-school" baluns were just a pair of air wound coils.

If your balanced feed line is at least 1/4 wavelength long, the currents
will be "balanced" (equal and out of phase) at the antenna. That assumes
your antenna is perfectly balanced to provide a perfectly balanced load,
which "balanced" antennas almost never do. There are just too many
variables. So expect excellent results even with shorter feed lines. The
amount of radiation (or pickup) from the feed line even at the rig end is
small in any case.

Connect one side of the open wire feed line to the KAT100 SO-239 center pin
and the other to the KAT100 ground terminal.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
K2/100 and KAT100 here.

I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using
the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced
feedline antennas.

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always
run 5 watts, all CW.

73 de W6OGC Jim Allen


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers


Maybe this is an opportunity to rant about the K3/K3S noise blanker.

Back on 12/8/15 K2AV wrote: "To those trying to get rid of a certain noise, 
remember that there are 21+21+(21x21) combinations of IF and DSP blanking. 
That's 483 combinations, not counting variations with preamp/normal/atten settings."


Now we're adding more?

At the time, I composed a message that I failed to send.  It follows:

"Personally, I don't want to "tinker" with 483 possible adjustments.  As I've 
said before,with a radio with this much computing horsepower and the design 
talent at Elecraft I fail to understand why blanking thresholds and duration 
aren't nearly automatic.


I would also like to see a technical description beyond the hand-waving in the 
manual of how noise blanking is performed.  For example, I fail to see any 
dedicated delay in the signal path to create timing coincidence between the 
noise pulse and the blanking gate.  Perhaps it's inherent in the design, but I 
would like to see some words that say so.


If it's going to be necessary for me to set a blanking threshold (something I 
think could be automatic) then why can't the radio generate a blanking pulse 
that persists as long as that threshold is exceeded.  Why do I also have to 
adjust that?  If the pulse is so long that intelligibility suffers then that 
noise isn't amenable to being blanked and blanking needs to be disabled.


The K3 blanker is okay.  Although I no longer have it around to compare to, I 
designed a pretty effective one in 1977.  Perhaps the best blanker I've run 
across was in a lowly Yaesu FT221R 2-meter multimode.  The worst was in my 
TS870SAT that otherwise was a good performer and had great ergonomics.  I've 
said more than once that Kenwood wasted panel space putting in a control for the 
noise blanker."


End of rant.  Eric can close the thread now:-)


On 2/3/2016 8:03 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

Hi all,

If you have...

- really ugly noise sources that neither of the K3/K3S noise blankers 
completely clean up, and

- a 6-kHz crystal filter, and

- a narrow crystal filter (200-1000 Hz)

...then you may want to try an experimental technique I've been using the past 
couple of days. In many cases it produces dramatically improved blanking, at 
least in narrow-band modes (CW, PSK, FSK). I've been able to hear many weak 
signals that I simply couldn't hear before.

It may also work for SSB signals in conjunction with a 15-kHz crystal filter, 
but I haven't tried that yet.

The kind of noise I'm talking about is often quite unstable, with a buzzy sound, possibly 
drifting around a bit in frequency and amplitude. Light dimmers, switching power 
supplies, and various other devices create such noise. The noise may be narrowband: as 
you tune the VFO, you may find there's a "hump" of noise that's anywhere from 2 
kHz to 50 kHz wide. It may also have very complex waveform with multiple noise pulses 
back-to-back in a burst.

These types of noise are difficult to deal with. The IF blanker's signal path 
may be too wide (0.2 to 2 MHz), resulting in too little energy in-band to 
trigger the gating signal. The DSP blanker's RF signal path may be too narrow, 
making it hard for the DSP to distinguish noise from desired signal.

* * *

Setup:

1. Connect the radio to a computer running K3 Utility. Go into the 
Configuration / Configure Crystal Filter setup screen.

2. Find your 6-kHz filter (probably FL1 or FL2). Now the fun part: fake out the 
firmware by entering a bandwidth for this filter that's just 50 Hz wider than 
your narrow CW filter (ideally 250-500 Hz). *Do not* change the filter offset. 
But *do* make sure that the 6-kHz filter's CW and DATA enable boxes are checked.

3. Click "OK" to save this experimental crystal filter configuration setup.

4. You will now find that when the WIDTH control is rotated from, say, 0.40 to 
0.45, the XFIL selection will jump from something like FL4 directly to FL1 or 
FL2 (your 6-kHz filter). That, hopefully, is the boundary where magic may 
occur, below.

* * *

The Experiment:

1. Find one of your most offensive local noise sources. I have them on most low 
bands. The stronger the amplitude the better. Narrowband sources may provide 
the most dramatic results.

2. Back down the AF gain control, then *turn off AGC*. You may need to use the 
RF gain to keep the signal from clipping.

NOTE: The reason for doing this test without AGC is to make sure you can hear 
the full effect of applied noise reduction. AGC flattens out the receiver's 
audio response, making it hard to compare different settings. (If you find that 
the noise-remediation trick works, you can later turn AGC back on, and while 
the effect won't be as obvious, any benefit in signal-to-noise ratio will still 
apply.)

3. Select CW mode and adjust the WIDTH control for your narrow filter's bandwidth 
(example: "BW 0.40").

4. Turn on the noise blanker (tap NB) and hold NB (LEVEL) to access the blanker 
parameters.

5. Set the IF

Re: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksys produces birdies)

2016-02-04 Thread Jerry Moore

You may try simply grounding the switch. I've resolved much of my station
noise with grounding and some basic shielding. It's an ongoing process.
I started with no proper grounds and am slowly adding them. It's amazing to
see the differences.

Jerry Moore
CDXA, INDEXA, SKCC, Fists
AE4PB, K3S - S.N. 010324
http://www.qrz.com/db/AE4PB
An Amateur is - Considerate, Loyal, Progressive, Friendly, Balanced, and
Patriotic.


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of John
Shadle
Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka Linksys
produces birdies)

I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
I saw one person (from a 2010 post on this list) note that the birdies could
be coming from network devices (routers). A-ha!

Initially, I thought it had something to do with my ASUS wireless router
being extremely close to my operation location. I unplugged it, and the
noise went away. Then I plugged it back in and removed, one by one, the
connections to various devices (network storage, my shack computer, and the
line that runs to my upstairs office). It just so happens that I had
installed a network switch recently (produced by Linksys, and on sale at
Best Buy last week). I unplugged the cable going to that switch, and the
noise went away. I then plugged it back in, and went to the office and
disconnected the power from the Linksys switch. Noise is gone again.

So, I'm looking for a new network switch. Does anyone have advice on what
has worked for them?

Alternately, any idea on how to get the network switch from producing these
awful birdies?

I'm *not* looking for a new router -- but just a switch.

Thanks.
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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Re: [Elecraft] VP8SGI

2016-02-04 Thread w7aqk

I don't know what they did today on their antennas, but they are sure LOUD 
tonight on 40 meters  Hope that translates to better sigs on the higher 
bands as well.  Good job guys!  I'm no propagation guru, but I sure think it 
is amazing how their signals on 40 and 30 have been so much better here than 
on the higher bands, and at both islands.  I suppose the MUF is in play, but 
it still is intriguing.


Dave W7AQK


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in Very Heavy DQRM on 40M CW......

All the selectivity in the world wouldn't help when the a**hole EU was keying 
and swishing his VFO at about 0200Z tonight.


I finally worked them at 0401Z but wasn't sure because of QRM on their freq.  So 
I kept calling and worked them again for sure at 0414Z.  Inverted V, apex at 
45', K3S/KPA500.  Slot number 14.




On 2/4/2016 6:04 PM, W5RDW wrote:

I thought I would try VP8SGI this evening on 40M, since I had not tried 40
due to the horrible DQRM almost every night on their TX frequency. They were
pretty loud tonight here in NTx (10-15 dB above noise floor). I use a Delta
Loop at 50 feet. A DQRM was "almost" zero beat on their frequency and 20 to
30 dB louder than them, making it near impossible to copy them. And to top
it off, there were also a few signals very near their Tx frequency also. I
cranked the K3 filter down as far as it would go (50Hz) and tuned the VFO A
just ever so slightly to maximize the SGI copy and throw a few dB more
rejection on the DQRM. After a few seconds, I could copy him clearly to make
the contact.

This was the first time I have had to use that much filtering to make a
contact!



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

Not to put too fine of a point on it but strictly speaking, that is incorrect. 
The characteristics of a pulse that can be blanked are:


1) its amplitude is sufficiently greater than the desired signal so it can be 
detected as undesired (noise)


2) its duration isn't so long that the "hole" punched in the signal appreciably 
degrades intelligibility.


Note that *one* pulse is all that is needed.  A repetitive pulse train that 
satisfies 1) might not satisfy 2, if the pulses are too close together.  
Conversely, totally random pulses can satisfy both 1 and 2.


Now in common ham lingo, what you say is true: "repetitive noise" is something 
like ignition noise and "random noise" is static crashes or the like, so those 
terms meet my previously stated criteria.



On 2/4/2016 4:46 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
The purpose of a Noise Blanker is to act only on repetitive pulse type noise.  
They do little to nothing for random type noise issues.


73
Bob, K4TAX

On 2/4/2016 5:29 PM, W5RDW wrote:

I think the Collins NB was most effective on pulse type (ignition) noise
encountered in mobile applications.

http://collinsradio.org/archives/manuals/136B-2_5th-ed-11-66_.pdf







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[Elecraft] KX3 IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification?

2016-02-04 Thread John Lawrence via Elecraft



I am trying to determine the IQ ADC and IQ DAC specification in the KX3.I'm 
interested in
determinng how many bits and the speed...Bit resolution and samples per second? 
 

Thanks
 

John, W1QS
 


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 in Very Heavy DQRM on 40M CW......

2016-02-04 Thread Gary K9GS


I heard both of your QSOs Wes.  I worked them right after you at 0416Z

Congratulations!

They had a great signal on 40 and also 30M a few hours earlier.



On 2/4/2016 10:55 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
All the selectivity in the world wouldn't help when the a**hole EU was 
keying and swishing his VFO at about 0200Z tonight.


I finally worked them at 0401Z but wasn't sure because of QRM on their 
freq.  So I kept calling and worked them again for sure at 0414Z.  
Inverted V, apex at 45', K3S/KPA500.  Slot number 14.




On 2/4/2016 6:04 PM, W5RDW wrote:
I thought I would try VP8SGI this evening on 40M, since I had not 
tried 40
due to the horrible DQRM almost every night on their TX frequency. 
They were
pretty loud tonight here in NTx (10-15 dB above noise floor). I use a 
Delta
Loop at 50 feet. A DQRM was "almost" zero beat on their frequency and 
20 to
30 dB louder than them, making it near impossible to copy them. And 
to top
it off, there were also a few signals very near their Tx frequency 
also. I
cranked the K3 filter down as far as it would go (50Hz) and tuned the 
VFO A

just ever so slightly to maximize the SGI copy and throw a few dB more
rejection on the DQRM. After a few seconds, I could copy him clearly 
to make

the contact.

This was the first time I have had to use that much filtering to make a
contact!



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--
73,

Gary K9GS

Greater Milwaukee DX Association: http://www.gmdxa.org
Society of Midwest Contesters: http://www.w9smc.com
CW Ops #1032   http://www.cwops.org



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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


On Thu,2/4/2016 12:55 PM, Jim Allen wrote:

I am changing around my modest antenna configuration now.  I have been using 
the K2/100 with my AH-4, and now wish to use the KAT100 with balanced feedline 
antennas.

What balun, homebrew or commercial, if any, should I use?  I almost always run 
5 watts, all CW


You didn't say what your antenna is or what bands you want to work. 
Antennas, feedlines, and tuners are a SYSTEM, and must be considered as 
a system. Why do you want to use "balanced" line? Has someone told you 
it's lower loss, and you can use any random wire (or some "magic" length 
of wire on all bands?


Are you trying to use a non-resonant antenna on multiple bands? If so, 
why? Is that the only sort of antenna you can hang? There are serious 
issues with this sort of antenna. First, there can be significant 
feedline losses. Second, these antennas are nearly impossible to choke 
to kill common mode noise, so they can be noisy. Off-center-fed antennas 
are unbalanced by their nature, so they're inherently noisy. Even a 
center-fed antenna will be unbalanced by its surroundings -- sloping 
ground, variable height, proximity to other conductors on one end but 
not the other, etc.


Take a look at the antenna planning tutorials on my website. All of the 
options shown there are superior to most "all-band" wires.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions


Wes and all,

Yes, that is one source of "sneak ground".  A balun will cure that 
condition.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/4/2016 11:48 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:
You mean like that "sneak ground" from the input of the tuner back to 
the grounded amp or exciter?  Or are they floating too?


On 2/4/2016 5:38 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


So connecting a balanced feedline to a PL-259 is not so far fetched - 
providing the shell of the PL-259 (and enclosure of the KAT500) is 
not grounded.  If you have decided to ground your KAT500, then you 
would need to use a balun - so "it all depends". Be aware of "sneak 
grounds".




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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers


It's called topic drift.  Without GPS stabilization it happens.

On 2/4/2016 5:21 PM, Tim Tucker wrote:

What, exactly, does the discussion of the Collins NB filter have to do with
the experimental NB thing Wayne is working on?  Can we stick to the topic
at hand?



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Re: [Elecraft] Balun suggestions

You mean like that "sneak ground" from the input of the tuner back to the 
grounded amp or exciter?  Or are they floating too?


On 2/4/2016 5:38 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:


So connecting a balanced feedline to a PL-259 is not so far fetched - 
providing the shell of the PL-259 (and enclosure of the KAT500) is not 
grounded.  If you have decided to ground your KAT500, then you would need to 
use a balun - so "it all depends". Be aware of "sneak grounds".


73,
Don W3FPR



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Re: [Elecraft] Quiet fans for K3

2016-02-04 Thread Bill Mader

I have learned this also applies to sports car racing Fred.  This was a
difficult concept to explain to USAF colonels too.

I only use speakers when I'm doing something else in the shack and
listening, not operating, just like Jim.  I can avoid any fan noise and
unwanted telephone calls.

73, Bill, K8TE, SMSgt, USAF, ret.

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2016 16:25:21 -0800
From: Fred Jensen 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Quiet fans for K3
Message-ID: <56b29a71.1050...@foothill.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

My K3 has fans?

I admit, I'm all headphones, all the time.  I'm vaguely aware that my 
KPA500 has a fan, I sometimes hear it in the RTTY Round-Up.

I once had to explain the Fundamental Axiom of Engineering to a USAF 
General who was continually dissatisfied with the schedule increases 
with each of his Change Orders:  "Sir ... Good, Fast, Cheap.  Choose two."

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 2/3/2016 2:35 PM, Jim Brown wrote:
> Exactly right, Clay.  It is, indeed, a matter of compromise between cost
> and how many customers care about whatever the characteristic you're
> trying to optimize. At least 90% (and 100% of my serious operation) is
> wearing headphones, and the times I'm using the speaker I'm monitoring
> while in the shack doing something else. So I've NEVER been bothered by
> the fans in my K3/100.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] K3/K3S Noise Blanker Performance Greatly Enhanced...

2016-02-04 Thread Tony Marr

Greetings fellow Elecrafters,

 

Being very interested in Wayne's initial comments regarding his experiments,
and because I share his noise problems here; I've had an initial play. A
brief summary of my initial results are as follows:

 

I was copying  VP8SGI on 10110KHZ around about 1000UTC- they had a very
fluttery polar signal on a rather "hissy" band with the usual bursts of QRN
as well. (Both VP8STI & VP8SGI are very difficult for us ZLs, as it's a bad
polar path...)

 

I'd faked my 6KHz filter to operate at 300Hz width, and  it did help quite a
bit with the NB activated, to clean the signal up. For me, the sweet point
seems to be t2-6, and the readability of the signal was much improved over
using my 400Hz filter at 400Hz width, with or without noise blanking or
noise reduction.

 

I also listened to some poor signals on 40 metres in the VP8's pile up
there, and found exactly the same results. In fact, some signals were
improved from being audible but barely readable to being quite good copy,
and again, t2-6 seemed to be best.

 

On 80 metres this morning, digging out the Europeans at the bottom of the
band, t3-2 seemed best.

 

I'll continue to play,  it's certainly worth investigating further, even if
it does mean tweaking the NB setting from time to time. I don't mind
tweaking a knob or two if it lets me notch up a new one.

 

73,

 

Tony, ZL2AGY.

 

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 TX MON envelope display

2016-02-04 Thread Richard Fjeld

Is there a link to some photos where I can see what this looks like?  I 
did not know about the SWR/PWR indication.


As for the envelope display, I would expect it to be good enough to 
indicate trouble or not.  Years back, I ran a Heath SB-610 which saved 
my finals one time.
The rig went into self  oscillation during transmit and I wouldn't have 
known until too late.


Dick, n0ce

On 2/3/2016 10:50 AM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:

My opinion is that the P3 envelope display isn’t a match for a scope, and 
probably wasn’t intended to be.  I do like having the SWR/PWR indication on the 
P3 display, though.


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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Computer Audio Question with Sub RX installed

2016-02-04 Thread Richard Ferch

Fldigi versions since 3.22.06 have the capability of decoding from 
either the left or the right channel of a sound card. You can use a 
command-line argument to tell fldigi which configuration files to use 
You would run two instances of fldigi with different configuration 
files, one configured to use the left channel of a sound card on receive 
and the other configured to use the right channel of the same sound 
card. With this kind of setup there is no need for two sound cards.


Programs like MMTTY that store their configuration information in a file 
in the program directory can also be used for dual receive. Simply set 
up two separate copies of the program in different directories, and then 
configure them to use the left and right channels of the sound card 
respectively.


For basic dual RX receive that's all you need. Rig control and transmit 
capability add complications that depend on the specific hardware and 
software you are using. Note that if you want to be able to transmit on 
the VFO B frequency, both receivers must be in the same band. This is a 
transceiver limitation - the K3/K3S will not do cross-band transmit.


73,
Rich VE3KI


AE6JV wrote:


You need a way to separately decode both the left and right
audio channels. I use cocoaModem on the Mac to decode two RTTY
signals. Usually that's the DX and the pileup. I think there are
also some windows programs which will do this dual decode. Are
there any Linux programs which will do it? I can't find out how
to do it with fldigi.

For maximum flexibility, you will need two sound cards assigned
to two separate programs.


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Re: [Elecraft] Price Increase Alert (Now Feb 8th)

2016-02-04 Thread Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft

In response to numerous requests from customers this week for a little more 
time to beat the scheduled price changes with their orders, we have moved the 
date for the changes a few days later to this Monday, Feb 8th.

This should give those who missed the original announcement and everyone else 
through this weekend time to to place their orders.  :-)

(See below for details of the original announcement.)

73,

Eric
elecraft.com
_..._

> On Jan 27, 2016, at 3:02 PM, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Early alert for our Elecraft list readers:
> 
> We're finally implementing the planned price changes that we first mentioned 
> late last year. We ended up delaying that change due to both the large 
> holiday season order rush and several ham shows, both of which always 
> generate a lot of sales sales activity and keep our sales team very busy.
> 
> As noted before, our costs are going up as our vendors increase their prices 
> to us and our labor costs also increase. (Its a never ending battle to keep 
> costs down as economic activity has picked up the last two years.) We've been 
> absorbing all of these increases, but now we have hit the point where we  
> must increase prices slightly on a number of our products.
> 
> The prices will change on next Thursday, Feb. 4th.  Our on-line order forms 
> will update with the new pricing at that time.   
> 
> Please resist the urge to call or email our sales / support people about 
> which specific products will be changing or how much the changes will be, as 
> they do not have this information. (We're still in the middle getting 
> everything entered.)
> 
> Of course, all orders received -prior- to the increase will be charged at the 
> lower pre-increase pricing when they ship.
> 
> 73,
> Eric
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Re: [Elecraft] Diodes Equivalents

2016-02-04 Thread N2TK, Tony

How about a 1N6857, 1N6858? They are similar Schottky's.
73,
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Oscar
Castillo
Sent: Wednesday, February 03, 2016 1:30 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Diodes Equivalents

Hello all

 i can find the 1N5711 diodes here on my town, i need to replaces D1 and D2
on the KAT2 tunner, is there another one i can use instead the 1N5711?

thanks to all

--
*Oscar Castillo XE2IF*
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delivered to tony@verizon.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

I've found quite a number of articles discussing noise blankers and the 
implementation of such.   From my experience with radios on the desk, 
past and present, the hardware noise blanker works quite well.  On the 
other hand, DSP/software noise blankers have always been found to be 
marginal.


It seems we are insisting on tighter and tighter bandwidths {filters} to 
fight QRM.  While at the same time, the use of a tighter the filter has 
the adverse effect that causes the noise pulse to be fattened.This 
is what Wayne was discussing in his recent post.  In another approach, 
use a wide filter ahead of the NB thus it can become more effective on 
blanking.  Wide pulses when blanked will punch holes in the audio.


There's a lot of history with Collins Radio and the implementation of 
noise blanking methods.  None of these use DSP schemes and in one 
system, a separate antenna was used to feed noise pulses to the blanker 
circuit.   I suggest one research the topic in this vein. One of my 
current radios on the desk uses a hardware noise blanker while the other 
one uses a DSP/software blanking system.  Both radios are from the same 
company.  It is amazing how much better the hardware noise blanker 
performs over the two radios which use DSP or software noise blankers.


73
Bob, K4TAX
K3S, s/n 10163



On 2/4/2016 8:45 AM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:

Maybe this is an opportunity to rant about the K3/K3S noise blanker.

Back on 12/8/15 K2AV wrote: "To those trying to get rid of a certain 
noise, remember that there are 21+21+(21x21) combinations of IF and 
DSP blanking. That's 483 combinations, not counting variations with 
preamp/normal/atten settings."


Now we're adding more?

At the time, I composed a message that I failed to send.  It follows:

"Personally, I don't want to "tinker" with 483 possible adjustments.  
As I've said before,with a radio with this much computing horsepower 
and the design talent at Elecraft I fail to understand why blanking 
thresholds and duration aren't nearly automatic.


I would also like to see a technical description beyond the 
hand-waving in the manual of how noise blanking is performed.  For 
example, I fail to see any dedicated delay in the signal path to 
create timing coincidence between the noise pulse and the blanking 
gate.  Perhaps it's inherent in the design, but I would like to see 
some words that say so.


If it's going to be necessary for me to set a blanking threshold 
(something I think could be automatic) then why can't the radio 
generate a blanking pulse that persists as long as that threshold is 
exceeded.  Why do I also have to adjust that?  If the pulse is so long 
that intelligibility suffers then that noise isn't amenable to being 
blanked and blanking needs to be disabled.


The K3 blanker is okay.  Although I no longer have it around to 
compare to, I designed a pretty effective one in 1977.  Perhaps the 
best blanker I've run across was in a lowly Yaesu FT221R 2-meter 
multimode.  The worst was in my TS870SAT that otherwise was a good 
performer and had great ergonomics.  I've said more than once that 
Kenwood wasted panel space putting in a control for the noise blanker."


End of rant.  Eric can close the thread now:-)




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Re: [Elecraft] Is K3/0 Audio pass through or processed in K3/0?

2016-02-04 Thread W1AN

John, I've done some further experimentation. My units are the full size
K3/0s, so it's unlikely any low pass filtering is in place. I checked the
continuity between pin 1 of the 8 pin front mic connector and the tip
connection on the rear mic connector and found they are tied together
measuring less than 10 ohms. The very fine traces on the circuit board might
account for this resistance. Sadly no schematic or board layout is
available to confirm. The PTT from pin 2 on the 8 pin mic connector also
checks to be directly connected to the rear PTT RCA jack. So this tells us
the "local" K3/0 settings do nothing to change the mic audio. I also
determined the problem is a ground loop where noise from the RRC control
unit is being picked up by the interconnecting mic leads. After adding
further ground loop isolation directly at the rear 1/8 mic jack with a
600/600 ohm transformer removes all the noise. This might have been my final
solution but you cannot pass DC mic bias through a transformer if you need
it.

But next the real answer!

Close inspection of the "factory" AUX/MIC cable from Remoterig shows no
conformity to the schematic provided in the manual! The cable provided is a
lengthy CAT5/6 4 pair cable with short breakouts at the end with the PTT RCA
connector and 1/8" mic connector. This factory cable is unshielded. Wires
used for mic audio and mic return are from separate pairs, not from one
twisted pair. Consequently, shielding is close to non-existent. PTT wiring
is similar. Making up my own cable with longer shielded wires connected to a
very short piece of CAT 5/6 at the RJ45 works much better! Leaving a long
length of exposed mic cable is not good practice. This may work OK with high
level signals but is a no-no for low level mic signals. A shielded piece of
CAT 5/6 might also work.

73, John W1AN

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[Elecraft] Macro Library Repository and K3/K3S/KX3 Utility Programs

2016-02-04 Thread Phil Hystad

The recent comments regarding Wayne’s new Noise Blanker experiment reminded me 
of something I wanted to suggest awhile back but forgot all about it.

This has to do with Macros and command sequences used to program or alter some 
specific setting in a temporary (maybe) way.  Many of these are posted here as 
well as found on some web sites including Elecraft.

But, there is something missing that would be nice.  And, that is a documented 
library hosted on Elecraft’s web site as well as a utility program feature to 
automatically download and manage the macro programs.

As a library, the documentation should be embedded in the Macro file itself per 
a standard format that declares the purpose (brief abstract), more detailed 
user instructions, and any known side effects.  Also, author’s name and date 
and maybe a revision history.

The utility programs would include a new feature to download (maybe abstracts 
or complete macro file) and list available macro programs displaying the brief 
abstract on the display.  The utility program would allow the user to select 
macros for download that copy them to a known location on the user’s computer 
managed by the utility program.  Also, this new feature set would support the 
loading of the macro to the K3/K3S/KX3.  Actually, a very nice “extra” would be 
to undo the macro act.  Of course, this could get complicated since a Macro can 
do anything and many things that should not be done.  But, one way to undo is 
to automatically save and then allow restoration of the rig settings, say in 
some kind of test mode.  Of course, this could be done by the user but it might 
be faster to do it as part of a test sequence supported by the utility program.

It seems like the only complicate part of this process is setting up a 
repository and managing it in a way that ensures the integrity of the 
standards: documentation, layout, and anything else.  The enhancements to the 
utility programs do not seem to be all that hard to do (I am a retired 
programmer of about 50 years programming experience).

There could be a network of volunteers that accept the new macros to be 
included and they test and vet those macros per the definition of purpose and 
the standards set forth for this repository.

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 142, Issue 4

2016-02-04 Thread Bill Mader

Great advice Fred!  I use K3_Ez and the K3 Utility to save, then modify, and
then retrieve configurations.

I experienced a problem for a long time that I corrected using this
approach.  For some reason, when using N1MM+ (or its previous version), my
Mic Gain would intermittently go to zero after invoking any one of the DVR
memories.  I "assumed" it was an N1MM+/K3 anomaly.  I ran into one other ham
who experienced this too.  It turns out, when I re-loaded the out-of-the box
K3 configuration, the problem finally disappeared, or at least it hasn't
re-appeared.  If a computer is involved (including firmware), always back-up
to save configurations (data) because you will likely need that back-up
someday.

I keep K3_Ez available at all times.  I can quickly change the TX
equalization with a mouse click or two.  Now that I have the Genovation
keyboard, I will likely dedicate a couple of keys for this purpose.

73, Bill, K8TE

--

Message: 14
Date: Wed, 3 Feb 2016 14:12:25 -0800
From: Fred Jensen 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] help with improving transmit eq
Message-ID: <56b27b49.2040...@foothill.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed

I'm thoroughly convinced that I'm as bright as I'm ever gonna get. :-)

I followed Jim's advice for both RX and TX EQ after wasting a whole 
bunch of time trying to figure it out myself [see first sentence above]. 
  I use a Heil Proset with the iC element from Elecraft, and in rare 
forays into the phone bands, I invariably get unsolicited "great audio" 
reports.

Another piece of advice from him:  When messing around with things like 
TX and RX EQ or AGC  that have multiple possible settings, go 
very slow ... one change at a time followed by some OT [Milspeak for 
Operational Test and Evaluation].  Some of the effects of the changes 
can be very subtle [see first sentence above].

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org


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[Elecraft] K3S audio disappears with narrow filter selection

2016-02-04 Thread John Shadle

Hi,
I completed the build last night, and I am putting the rig through its
paces. I previously had a K3, so I am familiar with the menu and
configuration.

I configured the filters in the K3S as follows

FL1 - 6 kHz
FL2 - 
FL3 - 2.7kHz (-0.95 offset)
FL4 - 700 Hz (+.04 offset)
FL5 - 400 Hz

I have tuned to a strong carrier (on CW) and then progressively narrowed my
bandwidth. When I hit FL5, the audio is strongly attenuated. It basically
disappears. I thought that something was wrong with my configuration, so I
checked it again. FL5 was set for 400 Hz, which the filter in FL5 is.

I performed several experiments. Choosing the filter with the XFIL button
does the same thing. Audio is present with FL3 (2.7kHz) and FL4 (700Hz),
but gone with FL5 (400Hz).

Then, I went into the firmware and changed the bandwidth of FL5 to a
narrower value (e.g. 250 Hz). I returned to listening to the audio and
using XFIL produced the same results as before; however, when I tuned down
from 700Hz to 400Hz, the audio was still there. When I went to 300Hz it was
still there -- but it disappeared at 250 Hz (as I had set the filter's
bandwidth in the firmware). Help!

There's gotta be something simple but critical I'm missing...somewhere.

Before you suggest it -- yes, I have tried to up the dB of the filter
compensation for FL5 (400Hz). I increased it to the highest value, and the
signal is still basically gone -- but maybe slightly higher.

-john NE4U
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Re: [Elecraft] Firmware Issue

2016-02-04 Thread James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft


Jimmy,

Somehow you got your K3 into the Force Firmware Download state.
Download the firmware to the K3 and all should be OK.

Since you did the reset, you will have to restore the configuration 
(hopefully you have a saved configuration.

If not, you will have to do all the setup and calibration procedures.

73,
Don WFPR

On 2/4/2016 10:41 AM, James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft wrote:

Turning on my rig a few nights ago (K-3 Serial #6512) I got a strange response. 
The rig would not turn on. All I got was a blinking TX light and screen display 
reading of MCU LD. My K-3 Utility program could not access the rig through the 
COM port. I looked up the reset instruction saying I should use the key 
combination of POWER + SHIFT 0/0 (whatever that is). Assuming I did it right, 
it didn’t work.




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[Elecraft] Firmware Issue

Turning on my rig a few nights ago (K-3 Serial #6512) I got a strange response. 
The rig would not turn on. All I got was a blinking TX light and screen display 
reading of MCU LD. My K-3 Utility program could not access the rig through the 
COM port. I looked up the reset instruction saying I should use the key 
combination of POWER + SHIFT 0/0 (whatever that is). Assuming I did it right, 
it didn’t work.

I drafted this email while I was thinking about what to do. Then I tried POWER 
+ 0. In response the rig turned on normally. What just happened. Was I just 
lucky the last time?

Jimmy, WA4ILO
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

2016-02-04 Thread XE3/K5ENS via Elecraft

Diddo for me WES

Keith, KV5J



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

2016-02-04 Thread Wayne Burdick


On Feb 3, 2016, at 11:29 PM, Vic Rosenthal  wrote:

> This is very interesting, because where I live there are sometimes strong 
> noise sources perhaps from OTH radar or other applications which take out big 
> chunks of a band.


Hi Vic,

Let me emphasize that this is an experiment. Please send me your results if you 
do try it.

tnx
Wayne
N6KR



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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

2016-02-04 Thread Wayne Burdick

Tim,

Based on your positive results with SSB and the 15-kHz filter, I'm going to 
give it a try.

Thanks,
Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 3, 2016, at 10:56 PM, Tim Tucker  wrote:

> I did a quick 'n dirty cell phone video of the results of this on SSB.  You
> NEED to use headphones to hear the difference because the cell recording
> has crappy audio.  This test is done on 75 meters, dialed into a plasma TV
> generating noise.  There is no intelligent signal present - just the noise
> floor and the plasma tv.  In this test, I found that a DSP NB setting of
> 2-3 worked best - incidentally, is usually use 2-2 or 2-3 on a daily basis
> but I've never been really happy with any of the NB settings.
> Incidentally, I also tried it in the video with the AGC turned ON and that
> had good results, as well.
> 
> I need to find an actual intelligible signal to do this on, but the
> preliminary results are quite impressive.  I'd LOVE to have a DSP NB
> setting that would activate this without having to permanently alter the
> filter settings.  Here and watch for yourself
> 
> http://1drv.ms/1PTCo6y
> 
> Tim
> AE6LX


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[Elecraft] Fwd: Re: P3 TX MON envelope display

2016-02-04 Thread Richard Fjeld


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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers

2016-02-04 Thread Dick Dickinson

The Collins 136C-1 Noise Blanker seems interesting.

 

73,

Dick - KA5KKT

  _  

The Collins noise receiver operated around 40 Megacycles, as we said in
those days.

 

My late friend and "Elmer", Lee, W7UVR was one of the first kids on the
block to 

have a 136C-1 blanker to use with his 75A-4.  

 

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] Macro Library Repository and K3/K3S/KX3 Utility Programs

2016-02-04 Thread Dave Cole

That is an absolutely wonderful idea Phil!!!  I would love to be in the
macro testing volunteer group if this happens...
-- 
73's, and thanks,
Dave

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On Thu, 2016-02-04 at 09:17 -0800, Phil Hystad wrote:
> The recent comments regarding Wayne’s new Noise Blanker experiment
> reminded me of something I wanted to suggest awhile back but forgot
> all about it.
> 
> This has to do with Macros and command sequences used to program or
> alter some specific setting in a temporary (maybe) way.  Many of
> these are posted here as well as found on some web sites including
> Elecraft.
> 
> But, there is something missing that would be nice.  And, that is a
> documented library hosted on Elecraft’s web site as well as a utility
> program feature to automatically download and manage the macro
> programs.
> 
> As a library, the documentation should be embedded in the Macro file
> itself per a standard format that declares the purpose (brief
> abstract), more detailed user instructions, and any known side
> effects.  Also, author’s name and date and maybe a revision history.
> 
> The utility programs would include a new feature to download (maybe
> abstracts or complete macro file) and list available macro programs
> displaying the brief abstract on the display.  The utility program
> would allow the user to select macros for download that copy them to
> a known location on the user’s computer managed by the utility
> program.  Also, this new feature set would support the loading of the
> macro to the K3/K3S/KX3.  Actually, a very nice “extra” would be to
> undo the macro act.  Of course, this could get complicated since a
> Macro can do anything and many things that should not be done.  But,
> one way to undo is to automatically save and then allow restoration
> of the rig settings, say in some kind of test mode.  Of course, this
> could be done by the user but it might be faster to do it as part of
> a test sequence supported by the utility program.
> 
> It seems like the only complicate part of this process is setting up
> a repository and managing it in a way that ensures the integrity of
> the standards: documentation, layout, and anything else.  The
> enhancements to the utility programs do not seem to be all that hard
> to do (I am a retired programmer of about 50 years programming
> experience).
> 
> There could be a network of volunteers that accept the new macros to
> be included and they test and vet those macros per the definition of
> purpose and the standards set forth for this repository.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Macro Library Repository and K3/K3S/KX3 Utility Programs

2016-02-04 Thread Jim McDonald

Why not upload them to the Elecraft_K3 Yahoo Group files area?

https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Elecraft_K3/files

I and others uploaded several K3 user-defined controls for DXLab's Commander 
rig control module to the DXLab Yahoo Group Files area a few years ago.  
Commander allow many more macros than the buttons on the radio do, and they can 
be executed by pressing a mouse button or an F-key.  I think it's pretty easy 
to create them in Commander.

You can download them and use them without rekeying them.

Information on Commander user-defined controls (sequences and sliders) is 
available at:
http://www.dxlabsuite.com/commander/Help/CommandSequences.htm .

73, Jim N7US



-Original Message-


Since macros are only text files, I personally have no need of fancy 
functionality in a library or utility.  The current Elecraft K3 utility works 
beautifully.

So for me, a simple Web site (or shared Google doc) listing macro examples is 
all the functionality that I think is needed.

73, Barry N1EU

On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 12:17 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:

> The recent comments regarding Wayne’s new Noise Blanker experiment 
> reminded me of something I wanted to suggest awhile back but forgot 
> all about it.
>
> This has to do with Macros and command sequences used to program or 
> alter some specific setting in a temporary (maybe) way.  Many of these 
> are posted here as well as found on some web sites including Elecraft.
>
> But, there is something missing that would be nice.  And, that is a 
> documented library hosted on Elecraft’s web site as well as a utility 
> program feature to automatically download and manage the macro programs.
>
> As a library, the documentation should be embedded in the Macro file 
> itself per a standard format that declares the purpose (brief 
> abstract), more detailed user instructions, and any known side 
> effects.  Also, author’s name and date and maybe a revision history.
>
> The utility programs would include a new feature to download (maybe 
> abstracts or complete macro file) and list available macro programs 
> displaying the brief abstract on the display.  The utility program 
> would allow the user to select macros for download that copy them to a 
> known location on the user’s computer managed by the utility program.  
> Also, this new feature set would support the loading of the macro to the 
> K3/K3S/KX3.
> Actually, a very nice “extra” would be to undo the macro act.  Of 
> course, this could get complicated since a Macro can do anything and 
> many things that should not be done.  But, one way to undo is to 
> automatically save and then allow restoration of the rig settings, say in 
> some kind of test mode.
> Of course, this could be done by the user but it might be faster to do 
> it as part of a test sequence supported by the utility program.
>
> It seems like the only complicate part of this process is setting up a 
> repository and managing it in a way that ensures the integrity of the
> standards: documentation, layout, and anything else.  The enhancements 
> to the utility programs do not seem to be all that hard to do (I am a 
> retired programmer of about 50 years programming experience).
>
> There could be a network of volunteers that accept the new macros to 
> be included and they test and vet those macros per the definition of 
> purpose and the standards set forth for this repository.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH

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Re: [Elecraft] Macro Library Repository and K3/K3S/KX3 Utility Programs

2016-02-04 Thread Barry N1EU

Since macros are only text files, I personally have no need of fancy
functionality in a library or utility.  The current Elecraft K3 utility
works beautifully.

So for me, a simple Web site (or shared Google doc) listing macro examples
is all the functionality that I think is needed.

73, Barry N1EU

On Thu, Feb 4, 2016 at 12:17 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:

> The recent comments regarding Wayne’s new Noise Blanker experiment
> reminded me of something I wanted to suggest awhile back but forgot all
> about it.
>
> This has to do with Macros and command sequences used to program or alter
> some specific setting in a temporary (maybe) way.  Many of these are posted
> here as well as found on some web sites including Elecraft.
>
> But, there is something missing that would be nice.  And, that is a
> documented library hosted on Elecraft’s web site as well as a utility
> program feature to automatically download and manage the macro programs.
>
> As a library, the documentation should be embedded in the Macro file
> itself per a standard format that declares the purpose (brief abstract),
> more detailed user instructions, and any known side effects.  Also,
> author’s name and date and maybe a revision history.
>
> The utility programs would include a new feature to download (maybe
> abstracts or complete macro file) and list available macro programs
> displaying the brief abstract on the display.  The utility program would
> allow the user to select macros for download that copy them to a known
> location on the user’s computer managed by the utility program.  Also, this
> new feature set would support the loading of the macro to the K3/K3S/KX3.
> Actually, a very nice “extra” would be to undo the macro act.  Of course,
> this could get complicated since a Macro can do anything and many things
> that should not be done.  But, one way to undo is to automatically save and
> then allow restoration of the rig settings, say in some kind of test mode.
> Of course, this could be done by the user but it might be faster to do it
> as part of a test sequence supported by the utility program.
>
> It seems like the only complicate part of this process is setting up a
> repository and managing it in a way that ensures the integrity of the
> standards: documentation, layout, and anything else.  The enhancements to
> the utility programs do not seem to be all that hard to do (I am a retired
> programmer of about 50 years programming experience).
>
> There could be a network of volunteers that accept the new macros to be
> included and they test and vet those macros per the definition of purpose
> and the standards set forth for this repository.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] help with improving transmit eq


On Wed,2/3/2016 6:25 PM, Wes (N7WS) wrote:

Re: SB-45

I bought one, took it out of the box, clamped it my head and I do mean 
"clamped", took it off after a few minutes and put it back in the 
box.  It went back to Amazon. If I want my head squeezed I can go back 
to my David Clark H10-30 headset.  For now I'll stick with my second 
CM-500.


Thanks for that input, Wes.  I've not seen one, but am repeating the 
recommendations of K6LL and GM3SEK.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] K3/K3S noise blanker performance greatly enhanced (at my QTH) -- need testers