[Elecraft] KX3 VFO B skipping

[kc1fdg]

Hi all,

Just received a used KX3 today and found that VFO B is skipping. Lets say
the top number is rotation out of 9 and bottom number is actual sensed
position, it kinda does this>

123456789
121233323

And so on and so forth.

Is there a way to clean these out or replace them?

As a point of interest, it seems to go away if you put a little force on the
knob perpendicular to the axis of rotation.



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Edward R Cole]

Ron,

Most coils I am winding are typically No.22 to No.16 solid copper 
magnet wire.  I hold the knife vertical to the wired and scrape 
sideways so never pressing into the wire - no nicks.  Eventually that 
does dull the razor blade but they are easily replaced.  The knife I 
use looks like a miniature box cutter knife.


Actually there is much greater risk using a wire stripper to nick a 
wire.  Now I suppose if you are winding a toroid with something like 
No. 28 the risk would be higher.  IN that case probably melting the 
enamel with solder iron or into solder pot is preferable.


But good to caution folks about that.  I see nicks more likely from 
stripping insulation that requires cutting completely around the wire 
while pressing down into the insulation to the wire.


73, Ed

From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
Message-ID: <001801d19032$cc8d1e60$65a75b20$@biz>
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="us-ascii"

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel.

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration.
---snip

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] FS K3/100

[jrquark]

G’day all,

I have a K3 with 100W amp and internal tuner. 
One 2.7 kHz filter.
Included is the MH2 mic and Tripp-Lite PR-40 power supply.
All manuals.  Haven’t been used for a while, so needs software update.
Serial - 7992

$2250 plus shipping.

Payment details to be discussed, i.e. check, when funds clear, etc.

Contact me off list.

Thank you, 

Jim - K7BIE
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[Elecraft] For Sale; KXPA100

[Dan Baker]

I have for sale a factory assembled;
KXPA100 Amp with the internal tuner.
KX3 Cable to integrate the KX3 with the amp.
I am the original owner. It has very little use. It is a backup rig and has
only sat on my desk.
It has no scuffs or scratches. Works perfectly. Comes with the original
boxes.

Delivered to my door it was $1247
Delivered to your door for $1025
If you want the PX3 with it and the "Nifty" stand it is $1545 delivered.

Thanks,  Dan KM6CQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Ken K6MR]

Vector also made a wire wrap tool that did not require stripping before 
wrapping: “Slit ‘n Wrap”. The tip of the tool had a knife edge that stripped 
the wire on the inside edge as you wrapped. They made a special wire that was 
sort of a cross between enamel and standard wire wrap wire. It was really quick 
because you could daisy chain from pin to pin without cutting/stripping 
individual wires. OK Machine Tool also made the “Just Wrap” which was a knock 
off of the same idea.

Ken K6MR



From: Mike Dodd
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 17:40
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

On 4/6/2016 2:44 PM, EricJ wrote:
> Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or
> so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB
> changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do.
> It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.

No, wirewrap is completely different. It uses insulated (_not_ enameled)
#30 wire that must be stripped before wrapping. A motorized tool wraps
around 0.25" square posts. The sharp edges cut into the wire to make a
gas-tight connection. The connection is not soldered.

Trust me -- Early in my career,I spent hundreds of hours making
thousands of wirewrapped connections, and I even bought a Gardner-Denver
AC powered tool for home use (vs. the battery-powered tools we used at
work). I still have that tool, and a thousand feet of #30 wire, but I do
little wrapping these days.

The Vector tool is just a plastic "pencil" with a hollow metal tip
through which the enameled wire feeds. You manually wrap the wire around
a pin, move the pencil to the next pin, wrap that, and cut the wire.
Then you solder both pins. The solder melts through the enamel to make a
normal joint.


--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/6/2016 2:44 PM, EricJ wrote:

Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or
so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB
changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do.
It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.


No, wirewrap is completely different. It uses insulated (_not_ enameled) 
#30 wire that must be stripped before wrapping. A motorized tool wraps 
around 0.25" square posts. The sharp edges cut into the wire to make a 
gas-tight connection. The connection is not soldered.


Trust me -- Early in my career,I spent hundreds of hours making 
thousands of wirewrapped connections, and I even bought a Gardner-Denver 
AC powered tool for home use (vs. the battery-powered tools we used at 
work). I still have that tool, and a thousand feet of #30 wire, but I do 
little wrapping these days.


The Vector tool is just a plastic "pencil" with a hollow metal tip 
through which the enameled wire feeds. You manually wrap the wire around 
a pin, move the pencil to the next pin, wrap that, and cut the wire. 
Then you solder both pins. The solder melts through the enamel to make a 
normal joint.



--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] P3 meters MCU 01.60

[Alan]

By "blanked" it means that the numeric SWR value and the SWR meter 
"needle" are erased.  The meter outline and scale are still there.


Both the SWR and power meters are blanked in this way when the 
transceiver goes back to receive mode.


Alan N1AL


On 04/06/2016 03:14 AM, Thomas Lindner wrote:

From the firmware note:

* SWR meter blanked:  Both the analog and digital SWR displays are
now blanked whenever the transmit power is too low to give a valid
reading.

What I have to do to get the meters blanked during reception?

73 de Tom DL2RUM
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[Ian]

Apartments and condos can be a challenge but not an insurmountable one.  A
balcony helps a lot.  I mount a hamstick for the band du jour on my 5th
floor balcony rail and throw a quarter wave counterpoise over the side.
Neighbors and condo police haven't noticed (or don't care).  Basically a
bent dipole and the ATU makes the rig happy.  155 countries says it works
pretty well.
73, Ian N8IK
s/n 10111


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of
lstavenhagen
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 16:04
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

I have decades of experience with trying to operate out of 2nd story or
higher apartments. My findings are the biggest difficulties are:
- grounding
- getting the antenna outside.

To sum it up, the interiors of most apartments are essentially RF anechoic
chambers. This is due to the structures and wiring which basically form a
gigantic Faraday cage around your antenna when it's inside. When it's on the
2nd floor, the problem is compounded by being too far above the ground to
get a good ground.

So basically, it's less important what type of antenna you use than it is to
merely get it outside. What I've done in the past is just throw a wire out
the window into a neighboring tree and just hope the apt. managers don't
notice it's there. Even dangling the wire out of the window towards the
ground will work better than trying to string something up inside.

What I did was buy a Buddipole and pelican case for my rigs, and do all my
operating /p. It's inconvenient at night, of course, but it does get me
outside and gives me some exercise. 

Otherwise, like I said, priority #1 is just to get whatever it is outside
the building. And that usually means a wire and a tuner in the rig

73,
LS
W5QD



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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[Fred Jensen]

On 4/6/2016 1:05 PM, Bruce Nourish wrote:


I'm a little puzzled by your question, and I suspect others are too. The
isotropic antenna is a theoretical construct which is sometimes used as a
baseline for the comparison of other antennas; it is not possible to build
one. The most primitive antenna that can actually be built is a dipole (but
don't take primitive to mean ineffective!).


Just a wild guess ... he might have meant "Isotron?"


Then I started
reading about small magnetic loop antennas, built one for myself, and never
looked back. I now mercilessly evangelize them to anyone who will listen.


I use an Alexloop with my K2 @ 5W for field operating.  It works better 
than the BP I had.  The only reason I sprang for the Alex [somewhat 
spendy as they say in OR] was that it was close to what I got for the 
BP.  You can homebrew one much cheaper ... but see comments on 
efficiency below.


The Alex is very easy to set up, takes me about 5 min, is light [~0.7 
kg] and fits in my pack well.  It is also very hi-Q and the BW on 40 m 
is barely wide enough for SSB.  It is very touchy to tune on the lower 
frequencies.  The radiation resistance, particularly on lower 
frequencies is minuscule, in the range of a few tens of milliohms. 
Thus, any resistance at all in the loop and cap can lead to very low 
efficiencies [e.g. use a butterfly cap to eliminate wiper resistance].


It is a resonant transformer and it is absolutely essential that you 
bypass any ATU and tune it exactly to resonance.  Fortunately, the W1 
wattmeter and the K2 both display SWR.  Getting it close and then 
letting the ATU do the rest results in a fairly expensive dummy load 
with a great match.


And a caution -- small magnetic loops can involve some surprisingly high 
voltages and circulating currents, even at 5-10 W.  They get into the KV 
range at 100 W or more.  Small mag loops are pretty much insensitive to 
ground and nearby objects since, unless you are set up in a railroad 
yard, the permeability of most things around us and the ground is close 
to vacuum permeability.


I sit under mine, I can reach up and tune it.  It has a bi-cardioid 
pattern, fairly broad forward lobes in the plane of the loop, and two 
sharp nulls orthogonal to the loop plane.  I never really mastered the 
BP tuning and, as a short loaded OCF dipole or vertical, its BW was very 
narrow too.


Antenna theory and practice are remarkably well defined [and close], and 
if someone offers you a "magic" antenna that's small and has the 
performance of 4 over 4 over 4 on 20, check and see if he also has 
ocean-front property in Colorado Springs for sale. :-)


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[dave]

> The

isotropic antenna is a theoretical construct which is sometimes used as a
baseline for the comparison of other antennas; it is not possible to build
one.


Actually you can come pretty close to an isotropic antenna by using 
two center fed dipoles arranged at 90 degrees to each other and fed 90 
degrees out of phase. Not exactly a isotropic radiator, but pretty 
close. IIRC they can either be both horizontal or one horizontal and 
the other vertical. I'd have to re-run the models again to be sure.


And I have compared small loops to dipoles. I did not use a loaded 
dipole but, like Ron, a non-resonant wire fed with open wire or ladder 
line. The non-resonant wire won by a wide margin in the comparisons.


73 de dave
ab9ca/4
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

I agree that loops are fun and interesting but my best success was with
attic doublets while being an apartment dweller some years ago. Not loaded
dipoles but non-resonant center fed wires. 

My approach was to get into the attic space and, based on where the rig was
located below me, figure out how I could best run the two halves of the
doublet as far as possible without having bends greater than 90 degrees and
with the center "feed point" over the rig. I fed it with open wire. Not the
big, clunky stuff but homebrew line made up of two small gauge wires spaced
about 2 inches. My installations were in various apartments where I rented
on the 2nd (top) floor. The walls and ceilings were painted apartment white
so I used small gauge white wires. An ice pick made two tiny holes in the
ceiling drywall right next to the wall where the rig was sitting on my desk
below. Snaked the two "feed" wires through the holes and stapled them to the
dry wall. Put my balanced tuner above the rig on that wall and connected the
feeder to it.

With about 40 feet or so of wire in the attic perhaps 25 feet above ground I
easily found contacts on 40 and 20 meters CW running between 5 and 15 watts
output along with interesting DX when the higher frequency bands were open.
When visitors sat at the operating position, I had to point out the feed
line in front of them before they noticed it. 

When it was time to move on, the whole affair could be removed and the holes
plugged in a matter of minutes, especially if I didn't bother to remove the
part in the crawl space above the ceiling. 

LS makes a good point about the impact of wiring, etc. That's why I worked
to get my wire up above that and directly under the roofing material. But
even that can backfire, as it did once. After considerable success in three
previous locations I found one where I could not get out worth a darn. One
day I noticed a bit of broken roofing tile on the ground, left by someone
making repairs. The tiles were of colored lightweight concrete. I took it
inside and put it in my microwave with a glass of water and ran it on high
for a minute or so. The bit of tile was "smoking hot" meaning it was
absorbing the RF energy. No wonder I couldn't get out, especially on the
higher frequencies. 

Fortunately the next QTH was a house I owned.

IF it is an "Isotron" you are looking at, they are a very poor excuse for an
antenna and proof that even a dummy load will make contacts when conditions
are right. Just about anything else will work better. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Bruce
Nourish
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 1:06 PM
To: David Guernsey; Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

Hi David,

I'm a little puzzled by your question, and I suspect others are too. The
isotropic antenna is a theoretical construct which is sometimes used as a
baseline for the comparison of other antennas; it is not possible to build
one. The most primitive antenna that can actually be built is a dipole (but
don't take primitive to mean ineffective!).

Having recently taken up ham radio again, in an urban QTH, I would very much
*not* recommend a dipole for your use case. I wasted a lot of time trying to
get a loaded dipole to work well in my attic. Then I started reading about
small magnetic loop antennas, built one for myself, and never looked back. I
now mercilessly evangelize them to anyone who will listen.

Some reading on mag loops here:
http://www.g4ilo.com/stealth.html
http://www.ahars.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/The-Underestimated-Magnet
ic-Loop-HF-Antenna-version-1.1.pdf

The quickest way to get started with mag loops is probably to pick up one of
these MFJ units:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-9232 (QRP)
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-933 (QRO)

The QRP model includes wire, the QRO doesn't.

Bruce



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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Nr4c]

Saw a picture of a small "candelabra" socket (RS has them) on a board and a 
screw-in soldering element of 40 watts with a screw-in tip (tip removed and the 
hole filled with solder).  I drilled the threads out of the hole and it 
actually worked. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 6, 2016, at 2:06 PM, N2TK, Tony  wrote:
> 
> Is there a recommendation on small solder pots? I don't need one often, but
> there are times such as stripping several wires and/or tinning wires where
> it would be nice to just dip the wire into the pot to remove the insulation.
> I see some online for <$30. Are they any good?
> 
> 73,
> N2TK, Tony
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
> Jensen
> Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 1:45 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
> 
> Damp kitchen sponge works great.  My Weller solder station has a little one
> with cuts in it in the base of the holder.  Whatever enamel contamination
> ends up of the iron tip comes right off and the tip is shiny and bright
> again.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Fred K6DGW
> - Northern California Contest Club
> - CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
> - www.cqp.org
> 
>> On 4/6/2016 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
>> I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the 
>> tin on my soldering pencil.
>> I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with 
>> a rag or cloth glove.
>> 
>> Dick, n0ce
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[Bill]

MFJ makes a couple of magnetic loops with remote tuners etc. Pricey, but 
I have heard a few of them and they were doing OK - even the one on 40 
meters.


Bill W2BLC K-Line


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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[Richard gillingham]

Let me be the third to recommend a mag loop.  Not too handy for contesting, 
VERY high Q.  Therefore has a high 'fiddle factor'.  But nonetheless  very 
usable.

My $0.02...  73 and gud DX
Gil, W1RG

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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[lstavenhagen]

Bruce makes a good point, which I overlooked also. Yes, the isotropic antenna
is just an ideal and where the term "dbi" comes from - the gain in DB over
the theoretical isotropic 0db-gain antenna.

I too intend to try a mag loop antenna at some point in time, probably the
next time I get tired of humping my /p rig around or I get rained on real
good hi hi.

73,
LS
W5QD.



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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna - Isotron Antenna?

[Gary Hembree]

Just a wild guess but I think you meant an Isotron Antenna.  You’re better off 
with an end fed wire and a tuner.  It’ll work the same or better and be far 
cheaper.  Mobile whip antennas are another less expensive solution for your 
location.
73
Gary, N7IR

I live in a 2nd floor condo and am considering an isotropic antenna on my 
balcony for 10/15/20 meters. Anybody have any experience with this type of 
antenna? 
73 de Dave KJ6CBS
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[Bruce Nourish]

Hi David,

I'm a little puzzled by your question, and I suspect others are too. The
isotropic antenna is a theoretical construct which is sometimes used as a
baseline for the comparison of other antennas; it is not possible to build
one. The most primitive antenna that can actually be built is a dipole (but
don't take primitive to mean ineffective!).

Having recently taken up ham radio again, in an urban QTH, I would very
much *not* recommend a dipole for your use case. I wasted a lot of time
trying to get a loaded dipole to work well in my attic. Then I started
reading about small magnetic loop antennas, built one for myself, and never
looked back. I now mercilessly evangelize them to anyone who will listen.

Some reading on mag loops here:
http://www.g4ilo.com/stealth.html
http://www.ahars.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/The-Underestimated-Magnetic-Loop-HF-Antenna-version-1.1.pdf

The quickest way to get started with mag loops is probably to pick up one
of these MFJ units:
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-9232 (QRP)
http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=MFJ-933 (QRO)

The QRP model includes wire, the QRO doesn't.

Bruce

On Wed, Apr 6, 2016 at 8:37 PM David Guernsey via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> I live in a 2nd floor condo and am considering an isotropic antennaa on my
> balcony for 10/15/20 meters. Anybody have any experience with this type of
> antenna? 73 de Dave KJ6CBS
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Re: [Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[lstavenhagen]

I have decades of experience with trying to operate out of 2nd story or
higher apartments. My findings are the biggest difficulties are:
- grounding
- getting the antenna outside.

To sum it up, the interiors of most apartments are essentially RF anechoic
chambers. This is due to the structures and wiring which basically form a
gigantic Faraday cage around your antenna when it's inside. When it's on the
2nd floor, the problem is compounded by being too far above the ground to
get a good ground.

So basically, it's less important what type of antenna you use than it is to
merely get it outside. What I've done in the past is just throw a wire out
the window into a neighboring tree and just hope the apt. managers don't
notice it's there. Even dangling the wire out of the window towards the
ground will work better than trying to string something up inside.

What I did was buy a Buddipole and pelican case for my rigs, and do all my
operating /p. It's inconvenient at night, of course, but it does get me
outside and gives me some exercise. 

Otherwise, like I said, priority #1 is just to get whatever it is outside
the building. And that usually means a wire and a tuner in the rig

73,
LS
W5QD



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View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/k3-Isotropic-Antenna-tp7615991p7615992.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] [k3] Isotropic Antenna

[David Guernsey via Elecraft]

I live in a 2nd floor condo and am considering an isotropic antennaa on my 
balcony for 10/15/20 meters. Anybody have any experience with this type of 
antenna? 73 de Dave KJ6CBS
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Looks like we've beat this one to deaf. Let's end the thread in the interest of 
reducing email overload for our readers.


73,

Eric
Moderatorororor
/elecraft.com/

On 4/6/2016 12:20 PM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

I prefer the solder pot set on max to strip enamel and all other non thermal 
coatings.  I do use a wade of steel wool to wisk the material off.  No 
abrasions and no nicks.
Mel, K6KBE


   From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
  To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 11:33 AM
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one

caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel.

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration.

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too.

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

I prefer the solder pot set on max to strip enamel and all other non thermal 
coatings.  I do use a wade of steel wool to wisk the material off.  No 
abrasions and no nicks.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: Ron D'Eau Claire 
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 11:33 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads
   
Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel. 

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration. 

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
    "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
    dubus...@gmail.com

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[Elecraft] WTB 400 Hz filters for K3

[Gary Smith]

I would like two KFL3A-400, 400 Hz 
filters. If anyone has one or two of these 
that they would like to sell, please 
contact me off list.

Thanks & 73,

Gary
KA1J
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[Elecraft] Wanted: P3_SVGA PCB

[Quentin Schultze]

Please contact me off list if you have one to sell. My QRZ email is
accurate. Thanks.

Quin, K8QS
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[EricJ]

Looks identical to the wirewrap tools that were around ~30+ years ago or 
so. I still have one as the fine wire is great for making minor PCB 
changes or repairs. Never thought to load it with enamel wire as you do. 
It would make it even easier to make those changes/repairs.


Eric
KE6us

On 4/6/2016 8:37 AM, Mike Dodd wrote:

On 4/6/2016 11:13 AM, Dave Heil wrote:

...eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


Remember Vector's "wiring pencil?" 
 You used it to wire a 
breadboard with #32 enameled wire. Once you wrapped the wire around a 
pin, you applied a soldering iron and solder, which melted the enamel 
to allow a good solder joint.


I still have mine, and used it just a few weeks ago to wire an Arduino 
breadboard.




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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Ed's approach is one that I've used from time to time, but let me add one
caution. Be very careful to avoid nicking the wire. It's very easy to do
with fine wire most often by an accidental press where you start removing
the enamel. 

The nick will create a weak spot that may fail later. And with that we could
segue back into the question of breaking wires off in gear that is subject
to vibration. 

I know that Mychael (the toroidguy) uses a solder pot. He's often grumbled
to me about finding one what works well over time. AFAIK he has compromised
on a fairly inexpensive pot that he ends up recycling after a year or so of
use when the heater or thermostat fails. Also one needs to keep the dross
(burned enamel, etc.) that covers the surface of the solder cleaned off so
it doesn't coat the wire as you remove it. Don't forget that you need a lump
of solder to melt in it too. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Edward
R Cole
Sent: Wednesday, April 6, 2016 9:36 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them with a
small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for tinning.
Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy glob on the iron
and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot but could see that
would work except for contamination of the solder if you do many.

I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is normally
coating magnet wire.

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[John Ellsworth]

I don't remember where I found this idea - might have been on this forum
- or youtube...

I have an old 30W soldering iron.  I removed the tip and replaced it
with a Phillips-head bolt the same size thread.  Took a 3/32 drill bit,
and drilled into the Phillips-head out abt 1/2inch deep.  Put the
soldering iron into a vice - or clamp it to your bench, business-side
up.  Fill the hole with solder, and voilà - a mini solder pot.

73 de JohnE/kd0nqc

On 04/06/2016 01:06 PM, N2TK, Tony wrote:
> Is there a recommendation on small solder pots? I don't need one often, but
> there are times such as stripping several wires and/or tinning wires where
> it would be nice to just dip the wire into the pot to remove the insulation.
> I see some online for <$30. Are they any good?
> 
> 73,
> N2TK, Tony

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[N2TK, Tony]

Is there a recommendation on small solder pots? I don't need one often, but
there are times such as stripping several wires and/or tinning wires where
it would be nice to just dip the wire into the pot to remove the insulation.
I see some online for <$30. Are they any good?

73,
N2TK, Tony

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred
Jensen
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2016 1:45 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

Damp kitchen sponge works great.  My Weller solder station has a little one
with cuts in it in the base of the holder.  Whatever enamel contamination
ends up of the iron tip comes right off and the tip is shiny and bright
again.

73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 4/6/2016 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:
> I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the 
> tin on my soldering pencil.
> I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with 
> a rag or cloth glove.
>
> Dick, n0ce

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Fred Jensen]

Damp kitchen sponge works great.  My Weller solder station has a little 
one with cuts in it in the base of the holder.  Whatever enamel 
contamination ends up of the iron tip comes right off and the tip is 
shiny and bright again.


73,

Fred K6DGW
- Northern California Contest Club
- CU in the Cal QSO Party 1-2 Oct 2016
- www.cqp.org

On 4/6/2016 10:29 AM, Richard Fjeld wrote:

I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the
tin on my soldering pencil.
I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with a
rag or cloth glove.

Dick, n0ce


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[Elecraft] KX3 Utility Fails to connect to ftp server

[wn5tkl-gmail]

I loaded the KX3Utility 1.14.4.11for Linux.  It talks to the KX3 just 
fine at 38400.  But when I click on "Copy new files from Elecraft" it 
says unable to connect error 127, whatever that means.
The FTP Timeout.htm page says the IP address should be 63.249.74.212.   
But when I ping ftp.elecraft.com I get an IP address of 50.31.74.52 with 
a rtt of 65 msec.

BOTH addresses ping okay.

I can manually connect to the ftp.elecraft.com site and download the 
firmware files manually.
I was able to copy the newly downloaded files into the 
./Elecraft/KX3_Firmware directory and successfully load them that way 
using the KX3 utility.


Any suggestions on why it failed to automatically download them?

Ron W7HD
Tucson, AZ


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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Richard Fjeld]

I try to keep a working wood-burner pencil for jobs that will ruin the 
tin on my soldering pencil.
I often clean the trash off the leads, or pencil, by wiping them with a 
rag or cloth glove.


Dick, n0ce

On 4/6/2016 11:35 AM, Edward R Cole wrote:
I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them 
with a small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for 
tinning.  Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy 
glob on the iron and not a very clean lead. 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Baud rate

[Nr4c]

Yes. Set all to 38,400. 

The radios seem to be set like the K2 at 4800. This was slow even 15 years ago 
when the K2 was new. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Apr 6, 2016, at 9:40 AM, John Pitz  wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> 
> I was wondering if there is any particular reason the default BAUD rates
> for the KX3 and KXPA100 are different.  Does the amp need a higher baud
> rate than the KX3?  Can I set the KX3 to use the same baud rate as the
> amp?  The reason I would like to do this is I only occasionally have the
> amp connected, and it would be nice if when I do hook up the amp I don't
> have to go into the settings of fldigi and wsjtx and keep changing
> things whenever my setup changes.
> 
> John 
> KD8CIV
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Edward R Cole]

I always figured the enamel should be removed.  I just scrape them 
with a small razor knife which leaves the copper bright and ready for 
tinning.  Melting the enamel with my solder iron results in a messy 
glob on the iron and not a very clean lead.  I don't own a solder pot 
but could see that would work except for contamination of the solder 
if you do many.


I am mostly winding air coils for VHF equipment, so its what is 
normally coating magnet wire.


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
"Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/6/2016 11:13 AM, Dave Heil wrote:

...eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


Remember Vector's "wiring pencil?" 
 You used it to wire a 
breadboard with #32 enameled wire. Once you wrapped the wire around a 
pin, you applied a soldering iron and solder, which melted the enamel to 
allow a good solder joint.


I still have mine, and used it just a few weeks ago to wire an Arduino 
breadboard.


--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Stripping toroid leads

[Dave Heil]

An old engineer at Foster Transformer in Cincinnati once showed me a 
method which caused the Ideal company to take their new abrasive enamel 
removing machine off the market:  The fellow took a newly-made 
transformer with about eight enameled leads off the bench.  He then 
straightened the leads and dipped them all about 3/8" into a solder pot.


73,

Dave K8MN

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[Elecraft] KX3 Baud rate

[John Pitz]

Hello,

I was wondering if there is any particular reason the default BAUD rates
for the KX3 and KXPA100 are different.  Does the amp need a higher baud
rate than the KX3?  Can I set the KX3 to use the same baud rate as the
amp?  The reason I would like to do this is I only occasionally have the
amp connected, and it would be nice if when I do hook up the amp I don't
have to go into the settings of fldigi and wsjtx and keep changing
things whenever my setup changes.

John 
KD8CIV
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working

[Clay Autery]

Excellent tip...  don't do it wrong.  Multiple steps to show ghosted
entries, NOT just hidden entries.  A LOT of hidden entries should NOT be
removed.  ONLY remove what is necessary.  Here's a link:

https://technet.microsoft.com/en-us/magazine/ff184583.aspx

__
Clay Autery, KG5LKV
(318) 518-1389

On 4/5/2016 10:50 PM, tomb18 wrote:
> HiYou should now do a Google search for how to show hidden devices in the 
> control panel. You can then delete the hidden devices if they are now 
> useless. This will free up any comport assignments you may have floating 
> around.7e Tom
>
>
> Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone. Original message 
> From: N8NCR  Date: 2016-04-05  11:45 PM  
> (GMT-05:00) To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port 
> Not Working 
> Unfortunately I think I found the problem. A USB 3.0 port may have fried
> both KXUSB cables. I found a 3rd KXUSB cable I had hiding in storage,
> hooked it up to the KX3 and laptop and it worked immediately.
>
> For anyone that got to this thread via search engine, here are some
> symptoms:
>
> Elecraft KX3 Utility v1.13.8.24
>
> Activity Log:
> Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 38400 bit/s
> Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 19200 bit/s
> Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 9600 bit/s
> Attempting to contact KX3 on port COM8 at 4800 bit/s
>
> On Tue, Apr 5, 2016 at 11:22 PM, N8NCR  wrote:
>
>> I have a brand new KX3, kit build. I had a hard time getting the KX3
>> utility to connect to the radio and its being rather picky. I was able to
>> get it to connect once automagically and after that it hasn't worked again.
>>
>> I've tried:
>> 2 different KXUSB cables
>> Different USB ports
>> Different computers (Win7/Win10)
>> Different baud rates
>> Setting baud rate in device manager to corresponding rate on radio
>> Updating drivers
>> Restarting computer/KX3
>>
>> I'm plugging in the ACC1 port and running firmware 2.38 and out of
>> troubleshooting steps. Any ideas?
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 COM Port Not Working

[Mike Dodd]

On 4/5/2016 11:45 PM, N8NCR wrote:

Unfortunately I think I found the problem. A USB 3.0 port may have fried
both KXUSB cables. I found a 3rd KXUSB cable I had hiding in storage,
hooked it up to the KX3 and laptop and it worked immediately.


Try the original KXUSB cable again.

On my Win 8.1 computer, sometimes serial communications stops for no 
apparent reason. The LEDs inside the dongle stop flashing. If I 
unplug/replug the dongle from the USB jack on the computer's rear panel, 
it starts working again.



--
73, Mike N4CF
Louisa County, VA USA
Elecraft KX3 + KXPA100 @ 100W
Elecraft PX3 panadapter
Carolina Windom up 45'
http://n4cf.mdodd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: Power Consumption at 15W?

[Tim Henrion]

Running my KX3 on a bench power supply with built-in current monitoring, I 
haven’t seen it use more than 2.5 amps on SSB, when cranked up to 15W.
I use the Pro Audio Engineering PAE-Kx33 power supply for plug-in travel 
operation, which is good for 4 amps: 
https://proaudioeng.com/products/pae-kx33-low-rfi-ac-power-supply/
It’s the size of a small laptop power supply and works quite nicely. 

Tim - KC1EOQ


> On Apr 5, 2016, at 10:38 PM, Tom Crayner  wrote:
> 
> Anyone happen to know power consumption of the KX3 when running at the
> relatively new 15W RF output setting?
> 
> I had read a while back that it was around ~2.1A at 10W.  Looking at tiny
> power supply options and don't want to underrate.
> 
> Tom, W2YF
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[Elecraft] P3 meters MCU 01.60

[Thomas Lindner]

>From the firmware note:
* SWR meter blanked:  Both the analog and digital SWR displays are now blanked 
whenever the transmit power is too low to give a valid reading.

What I have to do to get the meters blanked during reception?

73 de Tom DL2RUM
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 144, Issue 7

[Dave B via Elecraft]

On 05/04/16 22:28, elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net wrote:

Message: 3
Date: Mon, 4 Apr 2016 16:42:40 -0700
From: "Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT"
Cc:elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Raspberry PI 3 and K3
Message-ID:<5702fbf0.2060...@coldrockshotbrooms.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed

Setting aside the tiny screen, it fails the test with the external keyboard.

I'd really like to do this in just two boxes -- and as someone who
touch-types over 80wpm, it must have a really good keyboard.

On 4/4/2016 11:53 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:

>NUE PSK also works well with KX3


You can easily attach the largest screen you wish to the HDMI port, and 
any flavour of keyboard via USB.   + a real mouse too of course, and an 
external sound system for digimodes etc.  Not forgetting the usual array 
of USB<>RS232 devices, or some software can be configured to flip a bit 
on the digital I/O header on the Pi, for things like PTT control.


What you CANOT DO (sorry.)   Is run native Intel x86 or x64 programs on 
it, not even if you use the embedded version of Windows 10.


That is because it does /NOT/ use an Intel CPU, it uses an ARM chip.   
(Utterly different op-code/language if you will.)   I see many comments 
where it would appear that many people do not know or appreciate that 
difference.


Programs for the Pi (any version, and any OS) need to be compiled/built 
to run on the ARM CPU, usually the best results are when you build from 
source on the Pi.   Though that can take a while with some software.


Enjoy...

73.  Dave G0WBX.

~~~

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