Re: [Elecraft] FPF problem

[Mike Crownover]

Ron,

Thanks for the recommendation. I followed the procedure to remove the front 
panel, but the result was the same. 

Thanks again,

Mike AD5A

- Original Message -
From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
To: "Mike Crownover" , elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 9:20:14 PM
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] FPF problem

Hello Mike:

Depending upon the environment, some older K3 rigs suffered from oxidation
of the contacts on the connectors. In your case I'd suspect the connectors
between the front panel and the main RF board. 

Simply removing/replacing the front panel should take care of it if I'm
correct. The simple procedure is described in the K3 kit assembly manual on
the Elecraft reflector here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740259%20K3s%20Assembly%20Manual%20Rev%20B1.
pdf

See page 41. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Crownover
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 8:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FPF problem

I have a K3 that has been sitting on shelf for a while. I powered it up
today, after it was on for ~5 minuted, I get a ERR FPF. 
After a little research I learn I need to reload the flash file. I used the
utility to update the MCU and then when the FPF tried to load I got this
message. 



Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.12.7
OS Version 10.0 Build 10586
K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s. 
Waiting 4 seconds for flash memory erase Sending firmware file
C:\Users\ad5a_000\AppData\Roaming\Elecraft\K3 Firmware\hfpf0125.hex to FPF
Error code 0xE248: No response to poll while synchronizing to buffer
boundary FPF verification failed. Reload FPF. 
Click "Close" to close this window 




I have retried numerous times and get the same message. Any ideas. 




Mike AD5A 


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Re: [Elecraft] FPF problem

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Hello Mike:

Depending upon the environment, some older K3 rigs suffered from oxidation
of the contacts on the connectors. In your case I'd suspect the connectors
between the front panel and the main RF board. 

Simply removing/replacing the front panel should take care of it if I'm
correct. The simple procedure is described in the K3 kit assembly manual on
the Elecraft reflector here:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740259%20K3s%20Assembly%20Manual%20Rev%20B1.
pdf

See page 41. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Mike
Crownover
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 8:01 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] FPF problem

I have a K3 that has been sitting on shelf for a while. I powered it up
today, after it was on for ~5 minuted, I get a ERR FPF. 
After a little research I learn I need to reload the flash file. I used the
utility to update the MCU and then when the FPF tried to load I got this
message. 



Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.12.7
OS Version 10.0 Build 10586
K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s. 
Waiting 4 seconds for flash memory erase Sending firmware file
C:\Users\ad5a_000\AppData\Roaming\Elecraft\K3 Firmware\hfpf0125.hex to FPF
Error code 0xE248: No response to poll while synchronizing to buffer
boundary FPF verification failed. Reload FPF. 
Click "Close" to close this window 




I have retried numerous times and get the same message. Any ideas. 




Mike AD5A 


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Re: [Elecraft] FPF problem

[Mike Crownover]

The error was FP3, no FPF...Mike AD5A
- Original Message -
From: "Mike Crownover" 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 9:01:09 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] FPF problem

I have a K3 that has been sitting on shelf for a while. I powered it up today, 
after it was on for ~5 minuted, I get a ERR FPF. 
After a little research I learn I need to reload the flash file. I used the 
utility to update the MCU and then when the FPF tried to load I got this 
message. 



Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.12.7 
OS Version 10.0 Build 10586 
K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s. 
Waiting 4 seconds for flash memory erase 
Sending firmware file C:\Users\ad5a_000\AppData\Roaming\Elecraft\K3 
Firmware\hfpf0125.hex to FPF 
Error code 0xE248: No response to poll while synchronizing to buffer 
boundary 
FPF verification failed. Reload FPF. 
Click "Close" to close this window 




I have retried numerous times and get the same message. Any ideas. 




Mike AD5A 


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[Elecraft] FPF problem

[Mike Crownover]

I have a K3 that has been sitting on shelf for a while. I powered it up today, 
after it was on for ~5 minuted, I get a ERR FPF. 
After a little research I learn I need to reload the flash file. I used the 
utility to update the MCU and then when the FPF tried to load I got this 
message. 



Elecraft K3 Utility Revision 1.15.12.7 
OS Version 10.0 Build 10586 
K3 MCU revision 05.38. RS-232 speed 38400 bit/s. 
Waiting 4 seconds for flash memory erase 
Sending firmware file C:\Users\ad5a_000\AppData\Roaming\Elecraft\K3 
Firmware\hfpf0125.hex to FPF 
Error code 0xE248: No response to poll while synchronizing to buffer 
boundary 
FPF verification failed. Reload FPF. 
Click "Close" to close this window 




I have retried numerous times and get the same message. Any ideas. 




Mike AD5A 


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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 #79

[Michael Walker]

I ordered 2 days ago and today that told me it is a week away from shipping.

Mike va3mw


On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 12:27 PM, John Fritze  wrote:

> I ordered about 10:45 AM EDT on Wednesday while sitting at the FDIM
> seminars at Dayton as soon as I saw the order page go live.  KX2 #79
> arrived today in Albany NY.  Kewl!  Can't wait to fire it up along with my
> KX3 to compare over this weekend.
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[Elecraft] [KX2] Amp-hour display

[a...@juno.com]

Git it sorted out, thanks.

John AE5X
http://ae5x.blogspot.com/
 
 



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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[W0FK]

David Ahrendts wrote
> I am 100% totally, absolutely in love with my KPA500 linear amp. It is
> incredible. Fail safe. Loyal. Attractive. Beautiful. —— There are times,
> however, that I dream of a little more horse power. Would any of you trust
> the Amptec LA2000:

To echo the advice of others, unless you're a skilled tech or know someone
close by, I wouldn't touch this amp. The "name brand" amps sold in the US
through distributors are well engineered and supported by organizations that
will honor warranties and deal with problems. The amp you linked doesn't
even have a manual in English (instead referring you to "other amps"
manuals). If you need service under or post warranty, you may be on your
own, or hit with a big shipping bill. The listing also doesn't say it's been
registered with the FCC or meets US spectral purity and gain regs.

If there's one place in your station to get a solid piece of equipment and
not "cheap out",  it's the high power amp. High power needs well designed
circuits and robust components to function at its highest potential. It also
needs well designed and built safety lockouts  - with the high voltage
involved you can die if you get inside for any reason (not just installing
the transformer).

If you don't want to pay the price of a new amp, look at the used market.
There are lots of well designed and robust tube  amps of recent vintage
worth looking at that won't break your bank account. There are also a number
of techs around that can work on these amps if not under warranty. Solid
amps made by Alpha, command, Acom, and QRO come to mind. Some solid state
amps might be ok but full legal limit ones are fewer in number and higher in
cost. 

73, Lou, W0FK





-
St. Louis, MO


--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/OT-Amptec-LA2000-Linear-Amp-tp7618111p7618126.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] [KX2] Amp-hour display

[Nr4c]

Isn't it for showing AHrs left in internal battery?

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 27, 2016, at 9:29 PM, "a...@juno.com"  wrote:
> 
> I just received my KX2 today and it i smaller than I thought it would be - 
> love it. One question: the amp-hour display is continuously displaying 
> **.***AH. No numbers at all despite being on an external battery (5000mah 
> LiPo) for about 4 hours now. I did 'Clear' it after about an hour thinking 
> that might initialize it but no change. Still all asterisks.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> John AE5X
> http://ae5x.blogspot.com/
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Affordable Wireless Plans
> Set up is easy. Get online in minutes.
> Starting at only $9.95 per month! 
> www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216
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[Elecraft] [KX2] Amp-hour display

[a...@juno.com]

I just received my KX2 today and it i smaller than I thought it would be - love 
it. One question: the amp-hour display is continuously displaying **.***AH. No 
numbers at all despite being on an external battery (5000mah LiPo) for about 4 
hours now. I did 'Clear' it after about an hour thinking that might initialize 
it but no change. Still all asterisks.

Thanks,

John AE5X
http://ae5x.blogspot.com/
 
 



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Set up is easy. Get online in minutes.
Starting at only $9.95 per month! 
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

I suspect you posted with HTML enabled - the reflector strips HTML and 
results in a blank post.


Normal service for the KPA500 requests that you remove the transformer.  
That not only reduces weight (and shipping cost) but also reduces the 
probability of damage to the KPA500 enclosure if the shipping package 
encounters a downward impact which could cause the weight of the 
transformer to deform the KPA500 bottom panel.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2016 8:41 PM, Mike Rhodes wrote:

...did I get it yet?

On 5/27/2016 8:38 PM, Mike Rhodes wrote:
...sorry about the resend but hopefully it will arrive with content 
this time.


On 5/27/2016 8:05 PM, Mike Rhodes wrote:

...a trip back for service or updates is going to cost a fortune!!



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[Elecraft] List participatioin

[Bill]

I have missed the list for nearly a year. missed the KX2 stuff, and would
have loved to FT as I have done many pieces in the past.  But I somehow lost
the link to the newsletters.  So here I sit broken hearted, came to list but
found I had departed. I am back!  KX2 in the near future.  I have owned all
K rigs, except the 500w amp because I already own the THP HL K2.5kfx which
is full 1.5KW output. (soon to be up for sale.) Elecraft is the best and you
cannot own enough.  Our leaders are terrific.  I cannot believe I have been
on board since late 1998. Where has time gone?

72/73 :)

Bill

K9yEQ

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Mike Rhodes]

...did I get it yet?

On 5/27/2016 8:38 PM, Mike Rhodes wrote:
...sorry about the resend but hopefully it will arrive with content 
this time.


On 5/27/2016 8:05 PM, Mike Rhodes wrote:

...a trip back for service or updates is going to cost a fortune!!

Mike / W8DN

On 5/27/2016 7:25 PM, David Ahrendts wrote:

I am 100% totally, absolutely in love with my KPA500 linear amp. It is 
incredible. Fail safe. Loyal. Attractive. Beautiful. —— There are times, 
however, that I dream of a little more horse power. Would any of you trust the 
Amptec LA2000:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPTEC-LA2000-2000W-HF-tube-linear-amplifier/272234339459?_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140725133649%26meid%3Da46bc7a1c1274120a571252811a8f6bb%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D121996613826
  


David Ahrendts, KK6DA, Los Angeles




David ahrendtsdavidahren...@me.com





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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Don Wilhelm]

My mistake - 1 S-unit increase is 6 dB, not 1 dB.

73,
Don W3FPR

If you are QRP oriented, then the first 5 watts counts.  To get a 1 dB 
increase (6 dB), one needs to quadruple the power - 20 watts.


73,
Don W3FPR

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Mike Rhodes]

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[Elecraft] that's really awesome

[Elecraft]

hi,
I think this story is really awesome, you're gonna love it, please read it here 


Elecraft

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Don Wilhelm]

If you are QRP oriented, then the first 5 watts counts.  To get a 1 dB 
increase (6 dB), one needs to quadruple the power - 20 watts.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2016 8:13 PM, Michael Walker wrote:

You know it is only 1 S unit more... 6db.

It is the first 500 watts that count.




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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Guy Olinger K2AV]

I have a KPA500, and an Alpha 8410. The 8410, running a pair of 4cx1000A
tetrodes in conventional AB1, can deal with rather high SWR directly
without grid current that can destroy a tube. However, if any of the
complex supporting monitoring circuitry or protection circuity goes blewwy,
one needs the nearby manufacturer who will actually have the parts to fix
it.

Elecraft is all there for you and easy to get to. With higher freight
charges for all the extra weight and size, so is Alpha.

The crucial element is whether it can be serviced in the US by someone who
will have the parts and can honor a warranty. For me it was a good thing
that the Alpha boys were around because mine suffered a very weird blowup
in the screen circuitry that took a lot of stuff with it. Alpha fixed it,
and it's back on line.

Who's the servicing in the US for Amptec and what kind of a reputation do
they have?

Funny you would come on the Elecraft reflector to ask about Amptec. Time to
go Google and chase leads.

Then there's the other thing, that you only need the extra S unit for QSO's
that are at the edge of serviceable propagation. I had a friend that sold
his Acom 2000 after he had his KPA500 for a while. Breaking a pileup is way
more between the ears than between the conductors on the power cord.

Good luck in any event.

73, Guy K2AV

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 8:05 PM, Mike Rhodes  wrote:

>
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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Michael Walker]

You know it is only 1 S unit more... 6db.

It is the first 500 watts that count.

Mike va3mw


On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 8:05 PM, Mike Rhodes  wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[Mike Rhodes]

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[Elecraft] OT Amptec LA2000 Linear Amp

[David Ahrendts]

I am 100% totally, absolutely in love with my KPA500 linear amp. It is 
incredible. Fail safe. Loyal. Attractive. Beautiful. —— There are times, 
however, that I dream of a little more horse power. Would any of you trust the 
Amptec LA2000:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/AMPTEC-LA2000-2000W-HF-tube-linear-amplifier/272234339459?_trksid=p2060778.c100276.m3476&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140725133649%26meid%3Da46bc7a1c1274120a571252811a8f6bb%26pid%3D100276%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D121996613826
 


David Ahrendts, KK6DA, Los Angeles




David Ahrendts   davidahren...@me.com   




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Re: [Elecraft] Operating the Ten Tec 422B Amp QSK with a K3/K3S

[Bill Braun]

Hi Jim,

Thanks for the quick reply.  This is what I was hoping to hear. The 422B has 
been a reliable amp and I didn’t want to do anything
that would mess it or the K3S up. I had some concerns about the Ten Tec 
method of keying with non Ten Tec transceivers that I found in my 422B 
manual.
I didn’t like the idea of plugging a key into the Ten Tec amp and feeding 
back to the non Ten Tec transceiver(K3S)"key jack" with a cable from the 
"key out" of the amplifier. I would like to use all the built-in keying 
features of
the K3S and not use an external keyer.  I will set the 422B to PTT/VOX and 
run the one cable per your recommendation.


73,

Bill, K8ZCT





-Original Message- 
From: Jim Brown

Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 4:42 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Operating the Ten Tec 422B Amp QSK with a K3/K3S

On Fri,5/27/2016 1:08 PM, Bill Braun wrote:
Has anyone had experience using a Ten Tec 422B Centurion Amp that normally 
uses a Transceiver/Amp “Keying Loop” with a K3/K3S in QSK mode?


Hi Bill,

My experience with Ten Tec amps is that they work just fine without
using the keying loop if you simply feed the AMP Key out of the K3 to
the PTT input of the amp. I've done this quite successfully with my
three Titan 425s (Ten Tec's original legal limit amp) and my Hercules
II. Set the K3 for full QSK.

This doesn't keep up with fast CW at full QSK (more than about 30 wpm),
but it's fine below that.  For higher speeds, set the K3 for
semi-break-in. That's how I use it, both because I often run faster than
30 wpm during contests, and because I got tired of changing vacuum
relays in the Titan in the middle of a contest. :)

The default delay PTT setting in the K3 is fine for the amps I own. I
don't know about the 422B, but Ten Tec amps are protected from hot
switching, so if your amp doesn't key, simply make that delay setting a
few msec longer. See the menu section of the manual for info on how to
set it.

73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 suggestion for additional "General" band

[Erik Tkal]

Right, it’s the jumping off point.  And it isn’t til you go back to that band 
later that you realizes something’s not quite right, because you never intended 
to change anything there, so the frequency and mode are off.  Makes me think of 
Orlando Bloom in Pirates of the Caribbean - “That’s not where I left you”…

  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



> On May 27, 2016, at 18:24, Grant Youngman  wrote:
> 
> Hmmm .. On second thought, you're right. It does depend on where you leave 
> off.  Ok. I'm on board for a GEN band setting
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 27, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Grant Youngman  wrote:
>> 
>> I use the 10m band slot for this purpose. It's relatively simple to reset 
>> for 10m CW if I want to go there, which is rare 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On May 27, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Erik Tkal  wrote:
>>> 
>>> I do some SWLing using my Sony shortwave, and had been lately on my 
>>> FTdx3000.  Now that I have a KX3 I find some limitations with it.
>>> 
>>> Let’s say I start low in the 160m band, set the mode to AM, and start 
>>> scrolling up frequencies.  At some point I cross over into 80m, then 40m.  
>>> At that point I switch bands to go listen to 20m.  But when I go back to 
>>> 40m it is now set to AM since that’s where I happened to leave off my 
>>> SWLing.
>> 
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> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 suggestion for additional "General" band

[Grant Youngman]

Hmmm .. On second thought, you're right. It does depend on where you leave off. 
 Ok. I'm on board for a GEN band setting

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2016, at 5:04 PM, Grant Youngman  wrote:
> 
> I use the 10m band slot for this purpose. It's relatively simple to reset for 
> 10m CW if I want to go there, which is rare 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On May 27, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Erik Tkal  wrote:
>> 
>> I do some SWLing using my Sony shortwave, and had been lately on my 
>> FTdx3000.  Now that I have a KX3 I find some limitations with it.
>> 
>> Let’s say I start low in the 160m band, set the mode to AM, and start 
>> scrolling up frequencies.  At some point I cross over into 80m, then 40m.  
>> At that point I switch bands to go listen to 20m.  But when I go back to 40m 
>> it is now set to AM since that’s where I happened to leave off my SWLing.
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 suggestion for additional "General" band

[Grant Youngman]

I use the 10m band slot for this purpose. It's relatively simple to reset for 
10m CW if I want to go there, which is rare 

Grant NQ5T

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2016, at 4:41 PM, Erik Tkal  wrote:
> 
> I do some SWLing using my Sony shortwave, and had been lately on my FTdx3000. 
>  Now that I have a KX3 I find some limitations with it.
> 
> Let’s say I start low in the 160m band, set the mode to AM, and start 
> scrolling up frequencies.  At some point I cross over into 80m, then 40m.  At 
> that point I switch bands to go listen to 20m.  But when I go back to 40m it 
> is now set to AM since that’s where I happened to leave off my SWLing.
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 suggestion for additional "General" band

[Walter Underwood]

I’m pretty sure I suggested it a long time ago. A GEN band would be really 
handy.

wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On May 27, 2016, at 2:41 PM, Erik Tkal  wrote:
> 
> I do some SWLing using my Sony shortwave, and had been lately on my FTdx3000. 
>  Now that I have a KX3 I find some limitations with it.
> 
> Let’s say I start low in the 160m band, set the mode to AM, and start 
> scrolling up frequencies.  At some point I cross over into 80m, then 40m.  At 
> that point I switch bands to go listen to 20m.  But when I go back to 40m it 
> is now set to AM since that’s where I happened to leave off my SWLing.
> 
> It would be nice if there were an additional “band" that isn’t necessarily 
> tied to the amateur bands but is independent.  The FTdx3000 has a GEN band 
> button for this purpose, so as to not interfere with the saved positions in 
> the other bands.
> 
> Has this been suggested in the past?
> 
> 
>  Thanks and 73,
>  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED
> 
> 
> 
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[Elecraft] KX3 suggestion for additional "General" band

[Erik Tkal]

I do some SWLing using my Sony shortwave, and had been lately on my FTdx3000.  
Now that I have a KX3 I find some limitations with it.

Let’s say I start low in the 160m band, set the mode to AM, and start scrolling 
up frequencies.  At some point I cross over into 80m, then 40m.  At that point 
I switch bands to go listen to 20m.  But when I go back to 40m it is now set to 
AM since that’s where I happened to leave off my SWLing.

It would be nice if there were an additional “band" that isn’t necessarily tied 
to the amateur bands but is independent.  The FTdx3000 has a GEN band button 
for this purpose, so as to not interfere with the saved positions in the other 
bands.

Has this been suggested in the past?


  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



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[Elecraft] PX3 issues / questions /suggestions

[etks...@gmail.com]

I recently bought a PX3 for my KX3, and I really love it.  I had played with 
panadapter software on my computer, but since I use a Mac the offerings are 
rather limited and even using Windows in a VM getting it to work the way I 
wanted was cumbersome to say the least.

The PX3 is great since it’s basically plug and play, and its size and 
portability are awesome!

So after having used it for a couple of weeks I have some comments.  I guess 
most/all are related to waterfall since I find that the most useful aspect of 
the product. I live in a condo so due to antenna limitations and noise floor 
the spectrum display alone isn’t very useful.

1) The Freeze feature freezes everything.  It would be really great if it would 
just stop the waterfall (maybe the spectrum too), but still allow manipulation 
of other elements, e.g. markers.  I would use it if I were to see something I 
want to look at but maybe about to go off screen, so I’d like to move a marker 
over to that in order to switch frequencies, etc.

2) Allow the marker line itself to extend into the waterfall, not just for 
history, to allow aligning with historical data.  It would be useful to align 
with signals that are there but have not scrolled off yet.

3) Move the waterfall data on the screen when shifting frequencies in tracking 
mode.  I know you won’t have data for the new parts of the spectrum coming into 
view, but it’s hard for the user to readjust to shifting data that no longer 
corresponds to the spectrum above.  The same goes for fixed mode if you 
configure to jump a half span.

4) Add something like a 3/4 - 1/4 FixMode option.  As I’m scrolling up 
frequency (or down) I have to wait til I get all the way to the end to see 
what’s ahead.  Of course enhancing tracking mode as above might obviate the 
need for this.

5) Or maybe add a “shift view” that I can set to a Fn button and rotate the 
know to move the display left or right.  Currently I do this by switching to 
tracking mode to center the current frequency and then back to fixed.  Or maybe 
have “Center” in fixed mode center the current frequency?

5) Add a full-band view.  I know you won’t necessarily have full-width data due 
to bandwidth limitations but it’s nice to see where you are in the entire band. 
 Just a nice-to-have thing.

6) Add visual band end markers.  Also just nice-to-have.

7) One quirk I see is when switching the tracking mode the Ref level is 
different.  It reports the same value in each, but the base level is obviously 
different based on the spectrum display behaviour and I have to readjust it 
every time.

Thanks for listening!


  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED


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Re: [Elecraft] Operating the Ten Tec 422B Amp QSK with a K3/K3S

[Jim Brown]

On Fri,5/27/2016 1:08 PM, Bill Braun wrote:

Has anyone had experience using a Ten Tec 422B Centurion Amp that normally uses 
a Transceiver/Amp “Keying Loop” with a K3/K3S in QSK mode?


Hi Bill,

My experience with Ten Tec amps is that they work just fine without 
using the keying loop if you simply feed the AMP Key out of the K3 to 
the PTT input of the amp. I've done this quite successfully with my 
three Titan 425s (Ten Tec's original legal limit amp) and my Hercules 
II. Set the K3 for full QSK.


This doesn't keep up with fast CW at full QSK (more than about 30 wpm), 
but it's fine below that.  For higher speeds, set the K3 for 
semi-break-in. That's how I use it, both because I often run faster than 
30 wpm during contests, and because I got tired of changing vacuum 
relays in the Titan in the middle of a contest. :)


The default delay PTT setting in the K3 is fine for the amps I own. I 
don't know about the 422B, but Ten Tec amps are protected from hot 
switching, so if your amp doesn't key, simply make that delay setting a 
few msec longer. See the menu section of the manual for info on how to 
set it.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Operating the Ten Tec 422B Amp QSK with a K3/K3S

[Bill Braun]

Has anyone had experience using a Ten Tec 422B Centurion Amp that normally uses 
a Transceiver/Amp “Keying Loop” with a K3/K3S in QSK mode?

Bill, K8ZCT
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Don Wilhelm]

Reuben,

If you do not want to go much higher than 30 feet, and are willing to 
bracket the mast to the house peak, you can use 3 lengths of chain-link 
fence top rail.  It is relatively inexpensive and a 30 foot mast can be 
"walked up" by one person (don't try it with 40 feet).


With the mast supported about halfway up you should not need any guy 
wires unless you get high winds or the antenna is quite heavy.  I have 
used up to 20 feet of that chain-link top rail sections unsupported 
above the bracket successfully here.  If you go higher, guy wires would 
be mandatory.


You could guy to the corners of the house and run the antenna legs in a 
direction opposite those guy wires for full "guying" of the mast.  I am 
thinking the antenna would be in an inverted Vee configuration with the 
antenna ends connected to a fence or to a post in the ground so the 
wires are above head level.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/27/2016 9:19 AM, Reuben Popp wrote:

Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
related.

I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?

There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
abouts).



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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

That and similar designs are in almost any ARRL Handbook from the 1930's
into the ARRL Antenna manuals of the 1960's. Sometimes the old designs are
the best designs. 

Living on a postage-stamp sized lot a few years ago and not wanting a huge
ugly mast I erected an inverted vee using a mast made out of five 1x2 pieces
of lumber. Each length was only 8 feet. They were arranged in a T formation
with the edge of one screwed and glued against the wide part of the other
and staggered so solid wood bridged the butted joints. The last 1X2 was used
to make short sections for further reinforce the joints. I mounted it on the
house just outside the shack window with the base about 10 feet up, so the
total height was just under 30 feet at the peak: OK for 40 meter NVIS (many
QRP contacts out to 1500 miles or so and the occasional DX) and perfect for
20 meters and up to pick up maximum low-angle earth reflections. 

Painted white, the mast had to be pointed out to people outside before they
noticed it and it held my doublet for a number of years until we moved away.


With the mast supported in two places about 4 feet apart near the bottom and
the inverted V providing some self-guying at the top, it needed no further
support. 

I, too, had limited length available. No trees and just the peak of the roof
and garage for end supports. I'm a fan of doublets (non-half wave center fed
wires) and fed mine with open wire line. Not liking ribbon line much, I
picked up some 12 ga house wire and a bunch of white "dog-bone" antenna
insulators at HRO along with a handful of screw-in standoffs for TV "ladder
line". I popped the insulators for the ladder line out of the screw eyes and
screwed them into the mast at about 4 ft intervals.  Then I opened the eyes
enough to clamp them around the center grove in the dog bone insulators
(ladder line eyelets are quite soft metal -unlike real "screw eyes". The
insulators were about 4 inches hole-to-hole, which made great ladder line
spacing. A short piece of wire wrapped around each feeder where it passed
through the hole in the insulator kept it from shifting. Only a few were
needed. Screwing the eyelets into the pole kept the line stable in any wind
and the white insulators and white wires were darn near invisible from 20
feet unless they were pointed out. 

My radiator was about 60 feet overall, plenty to work with very high
efficiency on 40 and up and I made a number of contacts on 80 M. One thing
you can do to get more room for a resonant wire is to bend it at the ends up
to 90 degrees. If the ends can go to the peak of your roof just continue the
wire on down to the eaves keeping it several inches from the roof (assuming
you don't have a metal roof). You should pick up 15 feet or so at each end
that way. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of JJ
Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 10:57 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Mast question

3 16' 2X4's and you're in business.
Google 2X4 antenna mast.
Good luck and 73,
Jon
WS1K

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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Vic Rosenthal]

You could put up a TV-type 10-foot mast on each end of the roof using a pair of 
eave mounts for each one. Then run the antenna between them. There isn't enough 
room for the whole antenna, but you can bend the ends down on either end. You 
would need a third mast in the middle of the roof to support the feed line and 
keep the center from sagging. That one would need guys, but they would all be 
above roof level.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 27 May 2016, at 4:19 PM, Reuben Popp  wrote:
> 
> Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
> related.
> 
> I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
> the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
> that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
> years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
> smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
> of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
> what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?
> 
> There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
> slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
> distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
> abouts).
> 
> The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower is
> out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300, if
> possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
> Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if that
> helps any).
> 
> So, what do folks recommend?
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[Elecraft] Mast question

[JJ]

3 16' 2X4's and you're in business.
Google 2X4 antenna mast.
Good luck and 73,
Jon
WS1K
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Wes]

A number of years ago I purchased two 20' lengths of 2" square, 1/8" wall 
fiberglass tubing for the boom of an LPD array that I never built.  They have 
been laying outside on the ground in the Arizona sun since then.  They are still 
as smooth as the day I brought them home.  Contrast that to some of the mil 
surplus fiberglass tubing sections that have gone in the trash in a shorter 
time.  The good stuff is made by Strongwell and is used for handrail systems.


On 5/27/2016 9:42 AM, GRANT YOUNGMAN wrote:

I’ve tried fiberglass poles (from one of the vendors mentioned here, supposedly 
with UV inhibitors) for permanent installation.  Didn’t work out well.  After a 
couple of years, the push-up poles started to break down anyway and couldn’t be 
handled without gloves unless I wanted nasty fiberglass fuzz imbedded in my 
hands.  They ended up going out in the trash.

There are certainly a lot of other options, and some have been suggested here.  
I finally ended up using a Spiderbeam aluminum push-up mast.  These are very 
high quality products, which could easily be house bracketed to eliminate the 
need for guys, and much more suited to permanent installation.  My mast (a 
30-something ft HD version) was supported by a ground mounted rotator and guys, 
and held a Hex beam before I had to pull it down to sell my QTH.   Not the same 
application, obviously, but an excellent quality product, and not outlandishly 
expensive.

YMMV

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342





Fiberglass poles such as those from Spiderbeam or Max-Gain Systems (
mgs4u.com ) won't support very much load without guys

Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of
lengths.  Well within your budget.

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Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KX2 in AM mode

[Bill Johnson]

My goodness how time flies and we age.Bill


Sent from my Samsung Galaxy smartphone.

 Original message 
From: Phil Wheeler  Date: 
5/26/16  5:19 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: Wayne Burdick , 
Elecraft Reflector  Cc: 
k...@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Elecraft] [KX3] KX2 in AM mode 


Wayne,

One reason I invest in Elecraft rigs, and have
from the beginning, is the way they evolve over
time. That magnifies the thrill of ownership for
me. And, unlike the K2 where firmware upgrades
meant ordering ($$) and disassembly to change out
a firmware chip, now we simply download the
updates and run the utility.

Kudos on a fine -- yea, irresistible -- new
product, and also on the way Elecraft has evolved
with the technology over the past 17 years.

73, Phil W7OX

On 5/26/16 2:57 PM, Wayne Burdick
n...@elecraft.com [KX3] wrote:
>
> The KX2 has general-coverage receive, including
> all popular AM SWL broadcast ranges. While it
> doesn't directly support AM demodulation, you
> can use USB or LSB to copy AM. This works really
> well. You can choose the sideband that has lower
> QRM, and widen the AF passband out as far as 4
> kHz (equivalent to an 8-kHz AM filter). You can
> turn on the auto-notch to remove
> adjacent-channel carriers.
>
> AM is also on the wich-list as a possible future
> [free] firmware upgrade.
>
> Wayne, N6KR
>

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Re: [Elecraft] Balun BL2

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Keep in mind that the only source of the heating in the core is the RF power 
applied. Every watt used to make heat is a watt never radiated. 

A hot core will eventually reach its Curie temperature that causes the 
inductance to drop to a very low level. At that point it is no longer 
functioning as a balun, transformer or whatever.

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Walter 
Underwood
Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 8:46 PM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Balun BL2

You might look at the “QRP” baluns from Balun Designs. They are designed for 
250 W and cost about $50. Excellent design and construction.

http://www.balundesigns.com/low-power-qrp-baluns/ 


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

> On May 26, 2016, at 6:04 PM, jso...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
> Hello,
> I'm contemplating buying the BL2 balun. 
> It would be connected to 450-ohm transmission-line, which would go to a 
> version of W1AB's "killer-antenna", sized for 20m on a 31' jackite-pole. 
> 
> A reviewer of the BL2, on eham five years ago, commented about heat and 
> signal-loss. 
> The heat and signal-loss concern me, not at the QRP-level but higher wattage. 
> I realize it is spec'd at 250 W but how hot does it get? 
> 
> I've looked for data about insertion-loss for the BL2 and came up short 
> there. 
> Hopefully someone has measured the insertion-loss and could share that data. 
> 
> The "elecraft BL2 assembly and operating manual" has the cores as ferrite 
> material. 
> But ferrites exhibit non-linear properties, so the loss may be a function, 
> not only of frequency, but also drive-level. 
> Insertion-loss shows up as heat and that heat affects the properties of the 
> ferrite. 
> 
> As I wrote above, I'm not concerned about QRP operation. 
> If I put it into operation on FD and but take my KX3 home for the day, what 
> happens if a club-member connects his 100+ W rig to the antenna-system to 
> operate thru the night? 
> TIA for any reply. 
> 
> 73 Jerry KM3K
> KX3 #6088
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Output power rating

[Wayne Burdick]

The latest firmware is required; it will allow you to use up to 15 W on 80-20 m 
(10 W elsewhere).

The upgraded heatsink is optional. On my lab KX3 I can put out 15 watts for 
several minutes before hitting the temperature limit, at which power is reduced 
by firmware.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On May 27, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Alan Geller via Elecraft 
 wrote:

> The KX3 is now being positioned as the 15 watt big brother to the smaller KX2 
> “up to 10 watts” version. The upper
> limit on my KX3 power adjustment seems to have always been around 10.2 watts. 
> How does one safely achieve this
> 15 watt performance? Does it require the new/upgrade heatsink plus a new 
> firmware version? I have always used an
> approx. 14 Volt power source.
> 
> I’m sure this has been addressed before but I don’t see the history…thanks 
> for any observations.
> 
> alan/K6ADG
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Output power rating

[Ken Arck]

You really worried about 1.67 dB?


At 10:16 AM 5/27/2016, Alan Geller via Elecraft wrote:
The KX3 is now being positioned as the 15 watt 
big brother to the smaller KX2 “up to 10 
watts” version. The upper limit on my KX3 
power adjustment seems to have always been 
around 10.2 watts. How does one safely achieve 
this 15 watt performance? Does it require the 
new/upgrade heatsink plus a new firmware 
version? I have always used an approx. 14 Volt 
power source. I’m sure this has been addressed 
before but I don’t see the history…thanks foor 
any observations. alan/K6ADG 
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--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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[Elecraft] KX3 Output power rating

[Alan Geller via Elecraft]

The KX3 is now being positioned as the 15 watt big brother to the smaller KX2 
“up to 10 watts” version. The upper
limit on my KX3 power adjustment seems to have always been around 10.2 watts. 
How does one safely achieve this
15 watt performance? Does it require the new/upgrade heatsink plus a new 
firmware version? I have always used an
approx. 14 Volt power source.

I’m sure this has been addressed before but I don’t see the history…thanks for 
any observations.

alan/K6ADG
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic?

[Nr4c]

I'm betting the 2 m XVRTER for the KX3 is different circuit than the internal 
one for the K3. It's also a very different form factor. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On May 27, 2016, at 12:00 PM, Ken Arck  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi David
> 
> As I said, unless it's changed since the K3..
> 
> (I'm not sure it has)
> 
> Ken
> 
> At 08:54 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson wrote:
>> Sorry Ken, that appears to be the K3 not KX3.
>> 
>> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>> 
>> > On 27 May 2016, at 16:06, Ken Arck  wrote:
>> >
>> > Unless it's changed since the K3s came out:
>> >
>> > http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf
>> >
>> > Ken
>> >
>> >
>> > At 07:32 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson via Elecraft wrote:
>> >> Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter series 
>> >> available?
>> >>
>> >> I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it was in 
>> >> some slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I can't locate 
>> >> it now.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>> >> __
>> >> Elecraft mailing list
>> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>> >>
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>> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> >> Message delivered to k...@arcomcontrollers.com
>> >
>> > --
>> > President and CTO - Arcom Communications
>> > Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
>> > http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
>> > Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
>> > we offer complete repeater packages!
>> > AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
>> > http://www.irlp.net
>> > "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
>> >
>> > __
>> > Elecraft mailing list
>> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> >
>> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> > Message delivered to gm4...@yahoo.co.uk
> 
> --
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

I’ve tried fiberglass poles (from one of the vendors mentioned here, supposedly 
with UV inhibitors) for permanent installation.  Didn’t work out well.  After a 
couple of years, the push-up poles started to break down anyway and couldn’t be 
handled without gloves unless I wanted nasty fiberglass fuzz imbedded in my 
hands.  They ended up going out in the trash.

There are certainly a lot of other options, and some have been suggested here.  
I finally ended up using a Spiderbeam aluminum push-up mast.  These are very 
high quality products, which could easily be house bracketed to eliminate the 
need for guys, and much more suited to permanent installation.  My mast (a 
30-something ft HD version) was supported by a ground mounted rotator and guys, 
and held a Hex beam before I had to pull it down to sell my QTH.   Not the same 
application, obviously, but an excellent quality product, and not outlandishly 
expensive.

YMMV

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342




> 
> Fiberglass poles such as those from Spiderbeam or Max-Gain Systems (
> mgs4u.com ) won't support very much load without guys 

>> Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of
>> lengths.  Well within your budget.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic? I have it!

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

Thanks to a kind person on this list, I have a copy of the schematic for the 
KX3 2m transverter. It is the one I recall, but have no idea where I saw it 
before. 

Please don't ask me for a copy as I don't know the status of this and don't 
want to get into any trouble with party.

I am not thinking of copying it by the way! -  I just ordered the 4m version 
and am arming myself with as much info as I can before it arrives. 

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 27 May 2016, at 15:32, David Anderson via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter series 
> available? 
> 
> I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it was in some 
> slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I can't locate it now.
> 
> 
> 73 from David GM4JJJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Jim Brown]

On Fri,5/27/2016 8:16 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of 
lengths.  Well within your budget.


NOT sturdy. If you're going to use one, it MUST be well guyed, contrary 
to advertising and photos on their website.


A simple solution I used on the house I owned in Chicago were Radio 
Shack tripods and masts designed for holding TV antennas. One at the 
front peak of the house roof and another at the peak of the garage roof 
held up a loaded 80/40 dipole (about 100 ft long, with loading coils, 
purchased from HyPower Antenna Co). Those masts WERE guyed, using #12 
insulated copper, and I loaded one of them as a vertical on 30M and 10M, 
with radials, of course.


Another option worth considering is a multi-band vertical on your roof. 
Antennas like the HyGain AV620 AV640, and AV680, the the Cushcraft R6, 
R8,and R9 are good choices -- they're well designed and don't need 
radials. Lots of ideas in this piece that I wrote last year for National 
Contest Journal. http://k9yc.com/AntennaPlanning.pdf  and the slides for 
a talk I've done at Pacificon and for several ham clubs. It includes 
photos of the TV masts.


http://k9yc.com/LimitedSpaceAntennasPPT.pdf

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KX2 #79

[John Fritze]

I ordered about 10:45 AM EDT on Wednesday while sitting at the FDIM
seminars at Dayton as soon as I saw the order page go live.  KX2 #79
arrived today in Albany NY.  Kewl!  Can't wait to fire it up along with my
KX3 to compare over this weekend.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic?

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

Sorry Ken,

It is a completely different design, I know that much. For a start it is credit 
card sized and it takes the LO from the KX3 not a built in Xtal Osc. 

I may have imagined seeing the schematic or detailed block diagram in some 
presentation, but there appears to be nothing on the Elecraft site, and no 
schematic in the downloadable manual for the transverter, though it does give a 
brief written explanation of the transverter.

I am surprised that a schematic isn't included with the transverter actually.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 27 May 2016, at 17:00, Ken Arck  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi David
> 
> As I said, unless it's changed since the K3..
> 
> (I'm not sure it has)
> 
> Ken
> 
> At 08:54 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson wrote:
>> Sorry Ken, that appears to be the K3 not KX3.
>> 
>> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>> 
>> > On 27 May 2016, at 16:06, Ken Arck  wrote:
>> >
>> > Unless it's changed since the K3s came out:
>> >
>> > http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf
>> >
>> > Ken
>> >
>> >
>> > At 07:32 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson via Elecraft wrote:
>> >> Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter series 
>> >> available?
>> >>
>> >> I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it was in 
>> >> some slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I can't locate 
>> >> it now.
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>> >> __
>> >> Elecraft mailing list
>> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> >>
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>> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> >> Message delivered to k...@arcomcontrollers.com
>> >
>> > --
>> > President and CTO - Arcom Communications
>> > Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
>> > http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
>> > Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
>> > we offer complete repeater packages!
>> > AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
>> > http://www.irlp.net
>> > "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
>> >
>> > __
>> > Elecraft mailing list
>> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> >
>> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> > Message delivered to gm4...@yahoo.co.uk
> 
> --
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
> 

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[Elecraft] Failure to TX from Fldigi to K3s

[Richard W Hemingway]

I wish to thank all the people that have written to help me,Steve, Dvid, 
Elliott, Bob, Mike, Richard, and Gerald.  I hope that I haven't left anyone 
out.  Gerald, I used the file and now have the K3 description in Rig Cat.  
Thanks to all.
Dick, N5XRD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic?

[Ken Arck]

Hi David

As I said, unless it's changed since the K3..

(I'm not sure it has)

Ken

At 08:54 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson wrote:

Sorry Ken, that appears to be the K3 not KX3.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 27 May 2016, at 16:06, Ken Arck  wrote:
>
> Unless it's changed since the K3s came out:
>
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf
>
> Ken
>
>
> At 07:32 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson via Elecraft wrote:
>> Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter 
series available?

>>
>> I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it 
was in some slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I 
can't locate it now.

>>
>>
>> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>> __
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>> Message delivered to k...@arcomcontrollers.com
>
> 
--

> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
>
> __
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--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic?

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

Sorry Ken, that appears to be the K3 not KX3.

73 from David GM4JJJ

> On 27 May 2016, at 16:06, Ken Arck  wrote:
> 
> Unless it's changed since the K3s came out:
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf
> 
> Ken
> 
> 
> At 07:32 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson via Elecraft wrote:
>> Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter series 
>> available?
>> 
>> I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it was in some 
>> slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I can't locate it now.
>> 
>> 
>> 73 from David GM4JJJ
>> __
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> 
> --
> President and CTO - Arcom Communications
> Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
> http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
> Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
> we offer complete repeater packages!
> AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
> http://www.irlp.net
> "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Neil Martinsen-Burrell]

Fiberglass poles such as those from Spiderbeam or Max-Gain Systems (
mgs4u.com) won't support very much load without guys which your wife
disallowed (completely?). If you just want to support your G5RV above the
level of your roof, then you could use two roof tripods like those used for
TV antennas. Just put two 5-foot lengths of TV mast in each one and you'll
be more than 25 feet above the ground and 10 feet clear of
the roof.

If you are an inveterate scrounger, you could almost certainly get these
from the roofs of people who no longer use OTA TV antennas.  When I drive
around here, there are lots of TV antennas in states of disrepair that I'm
sure the homeowners would be glad to get rid of.

If you don't want to bolt through the roof, you could use bracketed wooden
masts on each end of the house. You could also consider going to a longer
open-wire fed doublet with the center over your roof, supported by the two
roof towers, then extending off the house to a high attachment point on
each end (you could use an eight foot T-post). With a tuner, you should be
able to work all bands 80-6 once the total length of the antenna gets up
around 90 feet (and it doesn't have to run in a straight line).


-Neil N0FN

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 10:16 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of
> lengths.  Well within your budget.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>   From: George Dubovsky 
>  To: Reuben Popp 
> Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
>  Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 7:19 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mast question
>
> I would look for 3 used sections of Rohn 25, then figure out how to safely
> bracket it to your house, if possible. That should be do-able for somewhere
> close to your budget and certainly capable of holding up a G5RV.
>
> 73,
>
> geo - n4ua
>
> On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Reuben Popp 
> wrote:
>
> > Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly]
> Elecraft
> > related.
> >
> > I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.
> At
> > the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
> > that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
> > years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
> > smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
> > of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.
> So,
> > what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?
> >
> > There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on
> a
> > slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
> > distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
> > abouts).
> >
> > The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower
> is
> > out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300,
> if
> > possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
> > Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if
> that
> > helps any).
> >
> > So, what do folks recommend?
> > __
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> >
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Look into the Spiderbeam fiberglass poles.  Quite sturdy and all kinds of 
lengths.  Well within your budget.
Mel, K6KBE


  From: George Dubovsky 
 To: Reuben Popp  
Cc: Elecraft Reflector 
 Sent: Friday, May 27, 2016 7:19 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Mast question
   
I would look for 3 used sections of Rohn 25, then figure out how to safely
bracket it to your house, if possible. That should be do-able for somewhere
close to your budget and certainly capable of holding up a G5RV.

73,

geo - n4ua

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Reuben Popp  wrote:

> Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
> related.
>
> I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
> the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
> that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
> years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
> smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
> of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
> what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?
>
> There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
> slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
> distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
> abouts).
>
> The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower is
> out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300, if
> possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
> Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if that
> helps any).
>
> So, what do folks recommend?
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic?

[Ken Arck]

Unless it's changed since the K3s came out:

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/K3_Schematics_Jun_2010.pdf

Ken


At 07:32 AM 5/27/2016, David Anderson via Elecraft wrote:
Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter series 
available?


I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it was 
in some slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I can't 
locate it now.



73 from David GM4JJJ
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--
President and CTO - Arcom Communications
Makers of repeater controllers and accessories.
http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/
Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and
we offer complete repeater packages!
AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000
http://www.irlp.net
"We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!"

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[Elecraft] FS: KX1 with all of the options 80/40/30/20

[len]

Hi All,

After getting my KX3 I no longer use my KX1 and am selling it.  

I built my KX1 kit in 2011 and am a very experienced builder, the radio
works perfectly.  The KX1 has been always kept in my non-smoking home.
Selling the KX1 with the KXAT1 internal antenna tuner.  The KX1 has the
KXB3080 option giving the radio coverage on 80,40,30, and 20 meters.  It
also comes with the KXPD1 plug in paddle.  The radio is powered with 6
UltraFire Li-ion AA sized batteries giving it plenty of capacity.  I will
include two UltraFire rapid chargers with the KX1.  Also include is the
original documentation, a BNC to binding post adaptor, and a cigarette
lighter plug adaptor.   I’m asking $500 for the complete KX1 radio and
accessories.  I will ship within the continental US and cover shipping and
insurance.  I can accept payment by PayPal or a US Postal Service money
order.  If you are interested please contact me directly at:  len at ka7ftp
dot com

Pictures: http://ka7ftp.com/KX1/

73

KA7FTP

Len




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[Elecraft] KX3: transverter schematic?

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

Is there a schematic diagram for the KX3 internal transverter series available? 

I was sure I had seen one at some point in the past, perhaps it was in some 
slide show by Elecraft when they introduced it, but I can't locate it now.


73 from David GM4JJJ
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Re: [Elecraft] Mast question

[George Dubovsky]

I would look for 3 used sections of Rohn 25, then figure out how to safely
bracket it to your house, if possible. That should be do-able for somewhere
close to your budget and certainly capable of holding up a G5RV.

73,

geo - n4ua

On Fri, May 27, 2016 at 9:19 AM, Reuben Popp  wrote:

> Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
> related.
>
> I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
> the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
> that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
> years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
> smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
> of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
> what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?
>
> There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
> slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
> distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
> abouts).
>
> The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower is
> out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300, if
> possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
> Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if that
> helps any).
>
> So, what do folks recommend?
> __
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[Elecraft] Mast question

[Reuben Popp]

Hey everyone, more of a beginner question here and not [directly] Elecraft
related.

I have a K2 I built some time ago that I paired with a half size g5rv.  At
the time, I was living with a buddy whose house design allowed me to set
that antenna up as a sloper (and it worked quite well).  That said, some
years have passed, I'm married now and the house I live in now is much
smaller.  I have the antenna still, but it's merely laid along the vertex
of the roof.  Reception is so-so, but I know it could be much better.  So,
what can I use for a reliable mast that would be left up all the time?

There's no trees in the lot. The house itself is a single level house on a
slab (no basement). and from end to end it's _maybe_ all of 40'.  The
distance from the ground to the vertex is maybe all of 16 feet (or there
abouts).

The XYL said she doesn't want guy wires all over and a rohn style tower is
out of my budget.  I'm looking for suggestions that's preferably < $300, if
possible.  The locale is mid-east Missouri, about an hour outside St.
Louis; storms come and go but it's not like I'm in tornado country (if that
helps any).

So, what do folks recommend?
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[Elecraft] KX3: 4m transverter enabling DC on SMA ?

[David Anderson via Elecraft]

I read in the FAQ for the transverter

http://www.elecraft.com/manual/KX3-2M%20FAQ.htm

Q:  Does the module provide a DC signal at the antenna jack for external 
switching functions? 
 
A:  Yes. We're adding a menu entry to control this. When the signal is turned 
on, 5 volts (through a 4-kohm series resistor) is applied to the SMA jack. This 
can be used to control external devices such as a higher-band transverter, 
amplifier, or antenna switch.

Has this been done, and if so what is the menu item I am looking for?

73 from David GM4JJJ
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Re: [Elecraft] CrankIR or AlexLoop

[Doug Turnbull]

Hi OMs and YLs,
I find this discussion of interest and the positive points about the
CrankIR seem correct in all respects.   I use an AlexLoop for travels as it
is small you can install it on a hotel balcony, park bench in front of a
hotel window, inside a timber frame, concrete block or stone house and the
AlexLoop will work.   The antenna is only one meter in diameter.   As I use
a KX3 with this antenna the power limit is not a problem.  As I operate with
the antenna adjacent or very close by, the adjustment for frequency change
is no hardship - it takes but a few seconds.   So changing bands with the
AlexLoop is faster.

 No antenna tuner is needed with the AlexLoop and if you have one it
should be disabled.

 I am certain the CrankIR is a more efficient antenna but it is not as
compact and can not be used indoors.  Just about anywhere I go the AlexLoop
can be used without upsetting people or embarrassment.  I have worked across
the Atlantic multiple times with the AlexLoop indoors and have done this
from both sides of the ocean.

  So there are tradeoffs and thankfully we have choices.   The CrankIR
will outperform the AlexLoop every time but you can easily use the AlexLoop
and it does work.

 73 Doug EI2CN

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Peter
Pauly
Sent: 26 May 2016 22:34
To: Don Butler
Cc: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CrankIR?

I have the AlexLoop and just ordered the CrankIR. The AlexLoop can only do
20 watts because of the small variable capacitor. The CrankIR does 1KW and
has a much wider bandwidth after tuning. You shouldn't need to fiddle with
it after you change bands like you would with the AlexLoop for small QSY's.


On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 5:58 PM, Don Butler  wrote:

> I’ve never owned a Buddipole, but bought one of the first CrankIRs almost
> 2 ½ years …. And I love it.   I have no doubt that both antennas
(Buddipole
> and CrankIR) work equally well, but a significant plus that comes with the
> CrankIR is the ease and simplicity of changing bands .. it will
> typically take me less than a minute to retune the CrankIR to another band
> and get back on the air ….. compare that to the Buddipole where you pretty
> much have to take it down, rebuild the elements, and put it back up again
> virtually EVERY time you change bands.
>
> I made this video soon after buying my CrankIR ….. and the SteppIR folks
> still have the link on their website.   Realistically it will take about
20
> minutes from start to finish to get the CrankIR up and on the air ….
>
> https://vimeo.com/album/2915832/video/87038860
>
> Don, N5LZ
>
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>
> From: David McAnally
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2016 3:30 PM
> To: Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
> Cc: 
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CrankIR?
>
> On Thu, May 26, 2016 at 12:44 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT <
> k...@coldrockshotbrooms.com> wrote:
>
> > Hopefully quick question:
> >
> > We see a lot of praise for the BuddiPole (and the AlexLoop), but don't
> > think I've ever seen mention of the CrankIR for portable use.
> >
> > Anybody try one?  What's the deal??
> >
> > 73 -- Lynn
> >
> >
> ?Lynn,?
>
> ?I have owned a CrankIR for almost two years.  When I go traveling by auto
> for more than a couple of days, it goes with me along with my K3, plus
> KPA500 and whatever else I decide to pack. I previously took a dipole,
with
> fiberglass poles, since I didn't always ?have access to wire supports.
The
> CrankIR is a nice compromise. It packs down to a small bag plus the
> optional fiberglass extension for 80M. I now pack it in a small rifle
case.
>
> Operationally, it seems to perform well.  I had QSO's with New Zealand a
> few weeks back while I was in Arizona. I've checked into the Elecraft SSB
> net from time to time.  As Dave C. mentions, the dipole is more
> lightweight, rugged and may perform better. I can't compare to the Alex
> loop as I've never used one. The CrankIR tunes 10M through 80M, but that
is
> a manual process. There are markers on the wire and I've gotten pretty
good
> at tuning it, using my Rig Expert antenna analyzer.  There are trade offs
> in whatever you choose though.  I doubt I'll ever go hiking or backpacking
> with the CrankIR and K3.  But they travel well in my Avalanche. I'm trying
> to find a way to justify the KX3, or now KX2 as my portable secondary
> radio.
>
> David M.
> WD5M
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