Re: [Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
Hi Stan-and list. I've used the Alexloop for the past 2 years and overall am very pleased with it. I primarily use it for portable use particularly SOTA, and with my newly acquired KX2 it makes the best portable combination I've ever had for speed and ease of setup. I used mine on a SOTA activation a few weeks back and in 1& 1/2 hrs I worked 25 Q's in 14 states and New Zealand. Propagation was iffy so I had to be patient, and this was all on 20 CW at 5W. Tuning is very sharp so it takes some getting used to, and you need to elevate it at least 5 Ft above ground for good results. I use a cheap camera tripod or sometimes a portable music stand base (like a Manhasset, for those who know what that is!). You want to get it a few feet away from you and tuning at first may seem tricky but after a bit I can get really close just by tuning to band noise. Sometimes I use the little IP60 antenna analyzer that Buddipole sells which is handy but you can do well with the KX2 or 3 SWR ind icator. I figure I can have my station up and running in less than 5 minutes. I also have a variety of end fed wires, Buddipole, lightweight dipoles, etc for all situations but they all take time to set up, so the Alexloop wins out because it's light and quick, and works pretty darn well on the upper bands especially. One of my buddies just picked up the Alpha loop at a hamfest which looks very similar so we plan to have a shootout soon to see if there's any difference between the 2-I suspect they're very similar. He got a hamfest deal on his so if that's an option that's a good way to go. Dan Presley N7CQR n7...@arrl.net On Jul 12, 2016, at 1:23 PM, stan levandowski wrote: > I would like to correspond with anyone who has experience using the Alexloop > antenna with 1-2 watts. > > Normally, I use either an end fed antenna and a T1, a resonant linked dipole, > or a resonant Par HF Omni-Angle (for 20 and 17 meters). They all work quite > well for their intended use but require some effort to erect. > > > I have been reading about the Alexloop Walkham for at least the last two > years. It would present some distinct advantages to me and the reviews seem > to be overwhelmingly positive. > > > My concern is that while I have a KX2 for my home station, I only take my LNR > five band Mountain Topper out on my portable jaunts. On a 9 volt transistor > battery, I get a bit over 1 watt; on 12 volts I get 2.5 watts. > > > My specific interest is in finding out as much as I can about how this small > Alexloop performs at such low power levels since its efficiency is reported > to be about 7% on 40 meters, rising to about 25% on 20 meters. > > > An email to Alex has gone unanswered for the last two days. > > > Thanks and 73 from Stan WB2LQF > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to n7...@arrl.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] K-Pod Questions
If your K3S is connected to your computer, the FT232R USB UART is probably the one in the K3S that connects your computer to the K3S's programming interface. There should also be a USB AUDIO CODEC. When I look at my K-Pod which is connected to the computer for power, I don't see anything. It is probably just looking like a USB charger. 73 Bill AE6JV On 7/12/16 at 5:23 PM, idar...@gmail.com (Irwin Darack) wrote: I just connected my K-Pod to my K3S and have two quick questions: 1. When connected to my computer, what is the name of the Human Interface Device? I have a device showing up as FT232R USB UART? Bill Frantz|"Insofar as the propositions of mathematics refer to 408-356-8506 | reality, they are not certain; and insofar they are www.pwpconsult.com | certain, they do not refer to reality.” -- Einstein --- Bill Frantz| Since the IBM Selectric, keyboards have gotten 408-356-8506 | steadily worse. Now we have touchscreen keyboards. www.pwpconsult.com | Can we make something even worse? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
You might also consider receive noise, which you can check in both spots (unless you are planning a dedicated RX antenna). As others said, loss for most coax will be much lower than one dB per 100 feet. Vic 4X6GP > On 13 Jul 2016, at 01:16, Dauer, Edward wrote: > > So long as antenna discussions on the reflector haven’t been met with the > “OT” cloture lately, I have an antenna question of a different sort. I am > contemplating a ¼ wave vertical with four elevated radials for 80 meters. My > choices for siting it are two – one is near the top of the property (about > 8,600 feet ASL), somewhat in the clear, and within 100 feet from the > operating position. The other is in a meadow near the property boundary, > which is much more open and a just a bit higher – but it has two other > significant characteristics. One is that the land slopes away from that > site, over about half the compass from NNW to SSE, at a slope of 10 to 15% > for about a half mile. According to ON4UN’s text, that slope could give me a > significant gain in that part of the azimuth with no significant terrain > obstruction on the other half. The second characteristic, however, goes the > other way – that site would require about 500 feet of feedline from the house > to the antenna feed point. I have been looking at the loss factors in > hardline and in “direct burial” coax, which on 80 meters seem modest but not > irrelevant for a run of that length – maybe a dB or so per 100 feet. What I > can’t quantify – because I don’t have enough life expectancy to learn how to > adapt antenna modelling software to a Mac or even to learn it if I could – is > whether the gain from the sloping near field would make up for the feedline > loss. In case it matters, the ground likely has very poor conductivity. > It’s decomposed granite – a specialty in the Colorado mountains – with a very > thin layer of usually very dry soil. (Our well has a static level of 142 > feet, so there’s no ground water anywhere near the surface.) Anyone have > opinions, guesses, estimates, advice, or whatever – should I accept the > feedline losses and enjoy the half-hemisphere low-angle gain? Or would the > poor soil quality negate that advantage? > > Ted, KN1CBR > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to k2vco@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Alexloop VS P-Loop
Last weekend a friend and I set up a club station at a ham swap. I brought my Alexloop and he brought his P-Loop. We swapped them around and as you would expect, we could not tell if one out performed the other. So I will comment on the most noticeable difference I observed while using them. The P-Loop has 6:1 reduction tuning. Which means it is not touchy, you slowly get to the resonate frequency you choose. The Alexloop is 3:1 so you get there twice as fast which makes it a little touchy. Overall I prefer the Alexloop because, I can QSY quickly. You get to know it and just by listening, you can adjust it almost perfectly without transmitting. I have gotten to the point I can tune it while I spend the VFO and it works great. The P-Loop works just fine also, you just have to spin the knob a lot more. The P-loop has a nice enclosure and I think is almost water resistant. It looks like it is made better. The Alexloop would be easier to use hand held because it is not as bulky. I think the P-loop is a better value as it is priced $65 dollars less. They are both nice compact loops. I think a man should own one of each. One last thought, When I set up the buddipole as a 20 meter dipole 8 feet off the ground, it was about the same as the Alexloop. The big difference is it will take 250 watts, the the Loops are limited to 10 watts CW. 73, Dan KM6CQ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
Hi Stan I own an AlexLoop and a few of us hams went into a park and did some signal comparisons on 20 meters. We compared an Alexloop, a full size vertical with four radials, and a 1/2 wave end fed for 20 meters. I used an a/b switch on receive and transmit. The vertical beat out the other antennas by less than an an s unit. The Alexloop was almost as good as the full size vertical. The only drawbacks I see with this antenna is that it needs to be in the clear. It also has a very narrow bandwidth maybe 30Khz. On a SOTA activation making phone contacts on 20 meters was quite doable with 10 watts last year. You will need an SWR meter with a needle to catch the quick dips as you tune the loop. bye Richard __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX3 Macro via Remote Control Command
You can write eight macros to the KX3 using the KX3 Utility. How do you execute a KX3 macro short of assigning it to the PF1 or PF2 switch? Is there a remote control command to execute a KX3 macro? 73's Joe Stone KF5WBO -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX3-Macro-via-Remote-Control-Command-tp7620040.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Out?
Jim, You are so right about the K3(S) manual! Elecraft pretty much leaves it up to your imagination on just how to use it the RX Out BNC connector I found a good use for the RX Out to be where you have a separate receive antenna (Beverage, HI Z 8, SAL, etc.), and plan on using diversity receive (requires the sub receiver). What you do is connect a short piece of 52 ohm cable with BNC males on each end between the RX Ant Out BNC, and the AUX RF In BNC. With the configuration, a push of the RX Antenna button routes one antenna to the Sub Receiver, and the other antenna to the Main Receiver! Dick, K8ZTT From: Jim Miller To: Elecraft Reflector Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 8:02 PM Subject: [Elecraft] RX Ant Out? I can't figure out what RX Ant Out does. The K3s users manual is pretty sparse in it's description. It appears that the "normal" e.g. Ant1/2 is presented to RX Ant Out when the RX antenna is selected. If that is the case then could RX Ant Out be fed to Aux In? That would make the TX Ant the Aux antenna and would allow for diversity using this on the Sub RX while RX Ant is going to the Main RX. Am I missing something? (probably...) jim ab3cv __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to richarddw1...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] RX Ant Out?
When the RX ANT function is engaged, the normal internal connection between the Receiver side of the K3's T/R switch and the Receiver input is broken. The output from the T/R switch is routed to the RX Ant Out jack. The RX Ant In jack connects to the Receiver input. This allows you to insert a preamp, filter, etc. in the receive line between the antenna and the Receiver input. This function is extremely useful. In addition to allowing the insertion of filters, etc. you can also feed the Receiver input from an external switching unit to select one of several different receive antennas without disturbing the transmit path. One of the inputs can of course be the transmit antenna signal from the RX Ant Out jack. I use this function extensively to switch between different receive antennas, especially for low band reception. I have actually built a switch matrix that allows me to put any of three receive antenna sources to either the Main receiver input via the RX Ant In jack or the Sub receiver input via the AUX RF connector, with suitable lockout logic. This setup is extremely valuable for Diversity reception. 73... Randy, W8FN On 7/12/2016 9:02 PM, Jim Miller wrote: I can't figure out what RX Ant Out does. The K3s users manual is pretty sparse in it's description. It appears that the "normal" e.g. Ant1/2 is presented to RX Ant Out when the RX antenna is selected. If that is the case then could RX Ant Out be fed to Aux In? That would make the TX Ant the Aux antenna and would allow for diversity using this on the Sub RX while RX Ant is going to the Main RX. Am I missing something? (probably...) jim ab3cv __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to w...@tx.rr.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] RX Ant Out?
I can't figure out what RX Ant Out does. The K3s users manual is pretty sparse in it's description. It appears that the "normal" e.g. Ant1/2 is presented to RX Ant Out when the RX antenna is selected. If that is the case then could RX Ant Out be fed to Aux In? That would make the TX Ant the Aux antenna and would allow for diversity using this on the Sub RX while RX Ant is going to the Main RX. Am I missing something? (probably...) jim ab3cv __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
Elevated radials will do more by establishing a fixed array configuration on match and pattern. The orientation of the ground is another issue but with a fixed orientation the pattern will be more subtle. I run multiple antennas with vertical orientation and find that the ground conductivity has more to change the pattern than the radials. That said, look at the ground conductivity in your area and see if it is constant over a year or widely wet to dry. If the ground is highly variable, the elevated radials will help give you a more stable operating platform or match. Mel, K6KBE From: John Langdon To: 'Craig Smith' ; "'Dauer, Edward'" Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:36 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses The elevated radials should help reduce near field I2R losses, but the sloping terrain will help far field reinforcement and produce 'gain' in some directions, although at 80M it should slope for further than a mile away to really make a difference. I do not think elevated radials will change the far field reflections from the sloping terrain in any way. At 80M, even small hardline should have very low loss, so I would go for the location that has the better terrain profile. 73 John N5CQ -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Craig Smith Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:50 PM To: Dauer, Edward Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses Ted … I think you are overstating the coax losses. Even stock RG-11 should be perhaps 0.3 dB/100ft on 80 meters - around 1.5 dB for the 500 ft. run. Even so, I would probably gravitate toward the closer location. With the elevated radials, the effects of the ground conductivity should be minimal. Not sure if ON4UNs data assume elevated radials or many on-ground radials. It could be that his estimate of the sloping ground advantage is for the later. With the closer location, you will have perhaps 1 dB stronger signal in all directions because of the lower feedline loss. 73 Craig AC0DS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to jlangd...@austin.rr.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to farrerfo...@yahoo.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
Don't forget about scrap 72 ohm CATV aluminum hard-line -or- open wire to feed the vertical. 73! K0PP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Noise Cancelling K3S
On Wed, 2016-07-13 at 09:53 +1000, Enzo Adrian-Reyes wrote: > Hi All > > I am just wondering since the rise of amount of noise sources, why > couldn't elecraft come up with an integrated solution for this, either > on the K3 like or perhaps add a unit external to the KX3. > I have often wondered the same thing... -- 73's, and thanks, Dave (NK7Z) For software/hardware reviews see: http://www.nk7z.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Problems with band decoder
Instead of the band data lines being loaded down so the logic "1" value is not reached, it is more likely that the RS-232 lines are not being pulled to the logic "0" level because of pullup resistors in the band decoder receiver inputs. If the band decoder that you are using has pullup resistors, this may indeed be the case. The first K3s did not have pullup resistors in the K3 - the band decode outputs were just FET open drain. That meant that a band decoder was expected to have the pullup resistors on the decoder end, but many do not. Elecraft then added pullup resistors to the K3 outputs rather than requiring that customers modify their band decoders. That is not the best solution for logic drivers and receivers (the pullup resistors should properly be at the receiver end, not at the driver end), but it was 'necessary' in ham circles where some devices expect the drivers to have the pullup resistors. Enter the KPA500 - the KPA500 went to extreme measures by adding diodes to the band data lines to prevent damage (and confusion) for the band data lines from devices that did add pullup resistors at the band data receiving end and those pullups were to voltages higher than +5 volts. So you may be faced with a situation where your band data decoder *also* needs diodes to isolate the voltage of the pullup resistors at the receiver from the K3/K3S band data lines. Adding a series diode in your band decoder with the cathode pointing to the K3 band data lines should cure the problem. 73, Don W3FPR On 7/12/2016 8:42 PM, Randy Farmer wrote: You don't say, but I presume the band decoder is operating correctly.Since the band change function of the KPA500 works, this says that the serial data bus between the amp and the radio is working fine. The band decoder may be loading down the 4 band data lines to the point they don't make the logic "1" voltage the KPA500 needs. It's probably a major pain, but try measuring the voltages on the 4 band data lines with a DVM with everything connected and report back the logic "1" (most positive) voltage you see on the data lines as you cycle through the bands. The KPA500 should still change bands properly if you give it a short shot of RF, but the situation should really be corrected. 73... Randy, W8FN On 7/12/2016 11:07 AM, Jim Spaulding wrote: I am using a Y cable from the K3 Aux port to a KPA500 and a WX0B band decoder for a six pack antenna switch. When the Band Decoder is added, the KPA500 does not automatically follow band changes from the K3 although band changes on the KPA500 flow to the K3. Has anyone else had this problem and is there an easy fix? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
The elevated radials should help reduce near field I2R losses, but the sloping terrain will help far field reinforcement and produce 'gain' in some directions, although at 80M it should slope for further than a mile away to really make a difference. I do not think elevated radials will change the far field reflections from the sloping terrain in any way. At 80M, even small hardline should have very low loss, so I would go for the location that has the better terrain profile. 73 John N5CQ -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Craig Smith Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 5:50 PM To: Dauer, Edward Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses Ted … I think you are overstating the coax losses. Even stock RG-11 should be perhaps 0.3 dB/100ft on 80 meters - around 1.5 dB for the 500 ft. run. Even so, I would probably gravitate toward the closer location. With the elevated radials, the effects of the ground conductivity should be minimal. Not sure if ON4UNs data assume elevated radials or many on-ground radials. It could be that his estimate of the sloping ground advantage is for the later. With the closer location, you will have perhaps 1 dB stronger signal in all directions because of the lower feedline loss. 73Craig AC0DS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to jlangd...@austin.rr.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX2 578
Arrived today! Thanks to Elecraft for a great product and thanks for great packaging as the box looked like UPS kicked it all the way here. Radio is smaller than I remembered from Dayton but then I really didn't get a good look there because of the crowds. Joins big brothers KX3 and K3 - I guess it is true - you can't have too many radios - especially if they are Elecraft. This one is another winner! Joe, w9jc Sent from my iPhone __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
People seem to have good opinions on the AlexLoop, but I had one feedback into my KX3 and forced it shutdown, I've heard of other similar things as well with magnetic loops. The thing to remember is that you need that ATU off before it can work. On 40M I couldnt even get a signal out, and other frequencies here in VK are dead except 2m/73cm 73 On Wed, Jul 13, 2016 at 11:01 AM, Chip Stratton wrote: > On some SOTA activations I will start off running my KX3 at 1 watt with my > AlexLoop to try to reduce the initial pile-up to a more manageable level. > Sometimes it works, and sometime it doesn't seem to matter, there is still > a pile-up! > > The most important thing when using the AlexLoop is to be able to see the > SWR change continuously as you tune it. If your transmitter has a good SWR > indication you should be fine. > > I suspect you would be pleased with its performance even at 1-2 watts. > > 72 > Chip > AE5KA > > On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 4:23 PM, stan levandowski > wrote: > > > I would like to correspond with anyone who has experience using the > > Alexloop antenna with 1-2 watts. > > > > Normally, I use either an end fed antenna and a T1, a resonant linked > > dipole, or a resonant Par HF Omni-Angle (for 20 and 17 meters). They all > > work quite well for their intended use but require some effort to erect. > > > > > > I have been reading about the Alexloop Walkham for at least the last two > > years. It would present some distinct advantages to me and the reviews > > seem to be overwhelmingly positive. > > > > > > My concern is that while I have a KX2 for my home station, I only take my > > LNR five band Mountain Topper out on my portable jaunts. On a 9 volt > > transistor battery, I get a bit over 1 watt; on 12 volts I get 2.5 watts. > > > > > > My specific interest is in finding out as much as I can about how this > > small Alexloop performs at such low power levels since its efficiency is > > reported to be about 7% on 40 meters, rising to about 25% on 20 meters. > > > > > > An email to Alex has gone unanswered for the last two days. > > > > > > Thanks and 73 from Stan WB2LQF > > > > > > > > __ > > Elecraft mailing list > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > > Message delivered to lightdazz...@gmail.com > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to enzo.adrianre...@gmail.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
On some SOTA activations I will start off running my KX3 at 1 watt with my AlexLoop to try to reduce the initial pile-up to a more manageable level. Sometimes it works, and sometime it doesn't seem to matter, there is still a pile-up! The most important thing when using the AlexLoop is to be able to see the SWR change continuously as you tune it. If your transmitter has a good SWR indication you should be fine. I suspect you would be pleased with its performance even at 1-2 watts. 72 Chip AE5KA On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 4:23 PM, stan levandowski wrote: > I would like to correspond with anyone who has experience using the > Alexloop antenna with 1-2 watts. > > Normally, I use either an end fed antenna and a T1, a resonant linked > dipole, or a resonant Par HF Omni-Angle (for 20 and 17 meters). They all > work quite well for their intended use but require some effort to erect. > > > I have been reading about the Alexloop Walkham for at least the last two > years. It would present some distinct advantages to me and the reviews > seem to be overwhelmingly positive. > > > My concern is that while I have a KX2 for my home station, I only take my > LNR five band Mountain Topper out on my portable jaunts. On a 9 volt > transistor battery, I get a bit over 1 watt; on 12 volts I get 2.5 watts. > > > My specific interest is in finding out as much as I can about how this > small Alexloop performs at such low power levels since its efficiency is > reported to be about 7% on 40 meters, rising to about 25% on 20 meters. > > > An email to Alex has gone unanswered for the last two days. > > > Thanks and 73 from Stan WB2LQF > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to lightdazz...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bioenno Battery Charger
Just need to know the specs on their internal circuitry... This project is working its way up to the top of my list... Looks like I need to give them a call... Or, I'll simply dissect my battery when it gets here... __ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/12/2016 4:11 PM, Jeffrey Wolf wrote: > I previously bought a LiFePO battery from Bioenno along with one of > their wall wart chargers. I wasn't happy with the setup because the > wall wart had no user configurable parameters for charging, > discharging, or cycling. Instead, I tried to use my Turnigy Accucel-6 > charger with parameters set the way I wanted them to prevent > overcharging and balance the cells. It wouldn't work because of the > internal circuitry built into the battery pack. When I contacted > Bioenno about this, they affirmed that I would have to use their wall > wart. Since this was unacceptable to me, I sold the battery and > charger to someone who wasn't bothered by the limitation. I bought a > 4200AH battery from Hobby King which is perfectly compatible with the > Turnigy charger (also from Hobby King) and have had no problems since. > My advice: If you want control over battery charging and maintenance, > Bioenno's LiFePO batteries may not be for you because of the charger > limitation. > 73, > Jeff, K6JW > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to caut...@montac.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Problems with band decoder
You don't say, but I presume the band decoder is operating correctly.Since the band change function of the KPA500 works, this says that the serial data bus between the amp and the radio is working fine. The band decoder may be loading down the 4 band data lines to the point they don't make the logic "1" voltage the KPA500 needs. It's probably a major pain, but try measuring the voltages on the 4 band data lines with a DVM with everything connected and report back the logic "1" (most positive) voltage you see on the data lines as you cycle through the bands. The KPA500 should still change bands properly if you give it a short shot of RF, but the situation should really be corrected. 73... Randy, W8FN On 7/12/2016 11:07 AM, Jim Spaulding wrote: I am using a Y cable from the K3 Aux port to a KPA500 and a WX0B band decoder for a six pack antenna switch. When the Band Decoder is added, the KPA500 does not automatically follow band changes from the K3 although band changes on the KPA500 flow to the K3. Has anyone else had this problem and is there an easy fix? Jim W0UO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to w...@tx.rr.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] K-Pod Questions
I just connected my K-Pod to my K3S and have two quick questions: 1. When connected to my computer, what is the name of the Human Interface Device? I have a device showing up as FT232R USB UART? 2. I have a K3S with 12 VDC output (1 amp max powered switched) that I am already using to power my P3. The P3 has the SVG Video card that I use for an external display. Before connecting the K-Pod I want to make sure that I will not be drawing more than the 1 am max. Thanks,Irwin KD3TB -- Irwin KD3TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Noise Cancelling K3S
Hi All I am just wondering since the rise of amount of noise sources, why couldn't elecraft come up with an integrated solution for this, either on the K3 like or perhaps add a unit external to the KX3. Something similar to this http://www.mfjenterprises.com/Product.php?productid=mfj-1026 I know the K3 has a subreciever perhaps some DSP wizardry could be used to create this. On the KX3 that would be impossible so an external unit perhaps would be required similar to the PX3. I guess my problem is that I get a lot of noise and I know there is this solution from MFJ, and other like integrated noise cancellation near the speaker end by BHI, but why couldn't elecraft come up with something similar to this functionality on the K line that is beautifully integrated, so messy PTT relays aren't required. No I dont have a K3 I have a KX3, but this would be a big win I believe for people in a surburban block like me. Regards VK3FRAD __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Terry, If you check out my QRZ page, you'll note that I have a USTower TMM-541SS with a Yaesu G1000DXA rotator and a Force12 XR6 topping it off. https://www.qrz.com/db/K4QE The antenna is at 47 feet AGL and it covers 20 thru 6 with one coax. The TMM-541SS nests down to 12 feet, and I also have the tilt-over kit. I'm happy to answer any questions you might have about it. 73, Tony K4QE On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote: > > > There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the > > venerable TA-33. > > Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and > 10 meters. Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on) > option. Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they > they have boom lengths equal or less than the TA-33/TA-33jr and the > full size elements mean they are much more efficient than the Mosley > antennas. > > The Force 12 or Navassa provide full performance on up to six bands > in a package the size and weight of the TA-33 (or TA33JR-WARC). > > 73, > >... Joe, W4TV > > > > On 7/12/2016 9:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote: > >> Hello Terry, >> >> In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower >> is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along >> the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the >> antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you >> any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some >> distance from the house. >> >> Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of >> the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, >> though. >> >> I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will >> have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may >> find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, >> but has a wider bandwidth. >> >> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the >> venerable TA-33. >> >> Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. >> In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. >> >> 73, >> Vic, 4X6GP >> Rehovot, Israel >> Formerly K2VCO >> http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ >> >> On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: >> >>> Hello all, >>> >>> I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since >>> 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am >>> moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I >>> have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. >>> On the >>> tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam >>> and tower date from the time I became a ham. >>> >>> I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, >>> Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower >>> setup. >>> My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is >>> amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight >>> rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower >>> again. My >>> home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my >>> roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be >>> about >>> 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S >>> with >>> the tower on the west side of the house. \ >>> >>> I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a >>> smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen >>> the US >>> Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over >>> base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. >>> This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not >>> being >>> visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. >>> which >>> would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when >>> transmitting to >>> the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to >>> physically >>> crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two >>> questions: >>> >>> 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above >>> the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive >>> antenna on >>> 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will >>> be the >>> direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna >>> will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. >>> >>> 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US >>> Tower is >>> just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any >>> lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular >>> constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of >>> installation. >>> A triangular designed crankup may be o
Re: [Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
Ted … I think you are overstating the coax losses. Even stock RG-11 should be perhaps 0.3 dB/100ft on 80 meters - around 1.5 dB for the 500 ft. run. Even so, I would probably gravitate toward the closer location. With the elevated radials, the effects of the ground conductivity should be minimal. Not sure if ON4UNs data assume elevated radials or many on-ground radials. It could be that his estimate of the sloping ground advantage is for the later. With the closer location, you will have perhaps 1 dB stronger signal in all directions because of the lower feedline loss. 73Craig AC0DS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Trying to gauge interest
Hello fellow K3 owners! I still have some boards available if anyone is interested and I'm happy to report they work just fine with the KPA3 installed as well! As my main use for my K3s is 6 meter and 144 EME operation, I bought the 10 watt version without the antenna tuner. I dabble a little on HF but not a whole lot. As such, the 10 watt, no tuner version suits my needs, although I thought it would be nice to be able to select 2 different antennas from the front panel (one for HF and the other for 6 meters). Spending several hundred dollars for the KATU seemed a bit overkill to me just to get front panel selection of 2 antennas. So looking at the schematic, I saw how easy it would be to modify my KANT board to allow 2 antenna selection. I bread boarded up my schematic and It works exactly as I expected. So I'm debating having some pc boards made to replace the entire KANT board but only if there is enough interest to justify doing so and I wanted to see how y'all felt about it. The bare boards run $25. You would take the parts from your existing KANT and reuse them on this new board, in addition to adding around $12 worth of new parts. So for under $40, you could have dual antenna selection on your non-KATU equipped K3. Please email me offlist if you're interested Ken -- President and CTO - Arcom Communications Makers of repeater controllers and accessories. http://www.arcomcontrollers.com/ Authorized Dealers for Kenwood and Telewave and we offer complete repeater packages! AH6LE/R - IRLP Node 3000 http://www.irlp.net "We don't just make 'em. We use 'em!" __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Sloping Terrain vs Feedline Losses
So long as antenna discussions on the reflector haven’t been met with the “OT” cloture lately, I have an antenna question of a different sort. I am contemplating a ¼ wave vertical with four elevated radials for 80 meters. My choices for siting it are two – one is near the top of the property (about 8,600 feet ASL), somewhat in the clear, and within 100 feet from the operating position. The other is in a meadow near the property boundary, which is much more open and a just a bit higher – but it has two other significant characteristics. One is that the land slopes away from that site, over about half the compass from NNW to SSE, at a slope of 10 to 15% for about a half mile. According to ON4UN’s text, that slope could give me a significant gain in that part of the azimuth with no significant terrain obstruction on the other half. The second characteristic, however, goes the other way – that site would require about 500 feet of feedline from the house to the antenna feed point. I have been looking at the loss factors in hardline and in “direct burial” coax, which on 80 meters seem modest but not irrelevant for a run of that length – maybe a dB or so per 100 feet. What I can’t quantify – because I don’t have enough life expectancy to learn how to adapt antenna modelling software to a Mac or even to learn it if I could – is whether the gain from the sloping near field would make up for the feedline loss. In case it matters, the ground likely has very poor conductivity. It’s decomposed granite – a specialty in the Colorado mountains – with a very thin layer of usually very dry soil. (Our well has a static level of 142 feet, so there’s no ground water anywhere near the surface.) Anyone have opinions, guesses, estimates, advice, or whatever – should I accept the feedline losses and enjoy the half-hemisphere low-angle gain? Or would the poor soil quality negate that advantage? Ted, KN1CBR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Chameleon CHA-F Loop Antenna
I would like comments from anyone who is using the Chameleon CHA-F Loop Antenna. Want to use it with my KX2 for portable use when I travel. Looking for convenience over a dipole. Also any other loop antenna comments. Thanks David ND4Y --- This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software. https://www.avast.com/antivirus __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Charging LiFePO4 Batteries
Despite your earlier response, allow me to offer a suggestion. I've written about this too before but I'll summarize again. I used for a number of years a HB analog charger on a 90 AH AGM battery to run most of my station. This was built using an Astron 35M power supply for the raw DC, heatsink and series pass transistors. The regulator board was removed and substituted by a modified A&A Engineering "smart charger" board. I think these are obsolete now, but the heart of them is the uC3906 IC. I set mine up for a bulk charge rate of 25A (~C/4). I'm not going to design it for you but I imagine the IC can do the trick for this battery chemistry. On 7/12/2016 12:57 PM, Clay Autery wrote: Thanks Jim!!! Here is what I take from that Say, you have a 100+ Ah battery and a 10 amp max charge current (limited) on the charger. (And assuming the charger meets other requirements for CC/CV voltage during CC and the desired Voltage during CV (trickle current cell balancing). Assuming a K3s/P3 for instance with only the 100W internal PA... During Transmit, the rig pulls anywhere up to about 15 amps or so on peaks (my experience). On receive, the rig is pulling well less than 1.5 amps... So, on receive... MOST of the time, the charger will be charging the battery and when at rest, even with the rig on say overnight (I seldom do this), the battery will easily reach full charge and enter CV cycle which is where the cell balancing happens. On a contest where the TX duty cycle is much higher say 50+%, The battery will be averaging somewhere around it's 10 Hr charge current in power draw... So, for the duration of the contest (or high duty cycle session) the battery will remain in the CC charge cycle. At the conclusion of the high duty cycle use, the battery will continue in CC until it is fully charged and thence to CV for maintenance/cell balance... I don't think there is going to be anything super tough about this one... IF a commercial solution doesn't present, I will proceed on the path of finding/building a linear supply that will provide at least the required voltage and trim (if necessary) it with a well-designed linear regulator circuit to the CC voltage required. Add a second linear regulator that provides the CV voltage Then add a sense/feedback circuit that monitors the battery for the event/events that signals the need to switch from CC to CV or CV to CC... Seems pretty doable... unless I am missing something... 73, _ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/12/2016 2:16 PM, Jim Brown wrote: This is what I got from Kevin. We also spoke on the phone. On the phone, Kevin clarified that as long as the charger was "proper" for LiFePO4 chemistry and charge current was safely limited, an LiFePO4 battery will NOT be damaged if charged during discharge. His only concern was that the battery might not reach full charge simply because more current was being drawn than was being supplied by the charger. SO -- the bottom line is that LiFePO4 batteries ARE suitable for use as the main power source in a station where a charger is always connected as long as the charger has the proper charging characteristics for the LiFePO4 in use. In general, battery life is maximized if the maximum charging current is no greater than the 4-10 hour discharge current. For example, a 10A charger is sold by Bioenno with their 40 - 100Ah batteries. Higher charging currents reduce battery life. Kevin also said that they have taken our concerns seriously with respect to RFI from chargers, and that they have begun working on sourcing chargers that are RF quiet. He noted that it typically takes 3-6 months to find potential candidates, evaluate them, and get them in inventory. I've volunteered to evaluate them in my station for noise. Bioenno also works with Powerwerx, so they are generally aware of connector issues. He said that they are using the larger connector as standard because some of their customers need the larger connector with the higher current rating. The grey SB50 connectors used in the ham world are rated for 50A. 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Bioenno Battery Charger
I previously bought a LiFePO battery from Bioenno along with one of their wall wart chargers. I wasn't happy with the setup because the wall wart had no user configurable parameters for charging, discharging, or cycling. Instead, I tried to use my Turnigy Accucel-6 charger with parameters set the way I wanted them to prevent overcharging and balance the cells. It wouldn't work because of the internal circuitry built into the battery pack. When I contacted Bioenno about this, they affirmed that I would have to use their wall wart. Since this was unacceptable to me, I sold the battery and charger to someone who wasn't bothered by the limitation. I bought a 4200AH battery from Hobby King which is perfectly compatible with the Turnigy charger (also from Hobby King) and have had no problems since. My advice: If you want control over battery charging and maintenance, Bioenno's LiFePO batteries may not be for you because of the charger limitation. 73, Jeff, K6JW __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
Hello Stan,
If you go to the AlexLoop site and open clippings then go to Echo
Ireland, you will find a fairly lengthy review I wrote.I have not used
the AlexLoop very often with my KX1 and hence 2.5W but have used it
frequently with the KX3 at 5 Watts for portable operations.The antenna
works even when inside a non-metallic building. It seems like snake oil
but it works. I made the QSOs mentioned in the article with 5 Watts so it
would be harder at 2 Watts as you will be down 3 dB. A dipole is going to
work better at any reasonable height but it will be for one band and takes
up a lot of space. You can place the AlexLoop on a balcony, take it to the
park or better yet a summit and it will work. I think it pricy but so too
are all commercial antennas.
You could do a lot worse. I am purchasing a KX2 to replace a KX3 used
in EI for portable operations in Europe. I reckon the KX2 in its special
travel case will fit inside the AlexLoop bag. Though I prefer using my
Begali Adventurer Paddle; the new KX2 paddle will be purchased as it is so
small and hopefully beats the original KX3 paddle. Elecraft has come a long
way since the KX1 paddle. You go trekking but I am an old goat at 72 and
do not want to carry anything more than absolutely required when using air
travel.
One big disadvantage of the KX2 is the size of the battery charger. I
do not want to haul this monster around. Maybe two battery packs will do
me but airlines do not like LiPo battery packs of any type outside the
radio. I may just gamble of a second battery pack. This however is off
topic.
For me the AlexLoop works better than I would ever expect and even
outperformed a Buddipole using a full quarter length shock cord whip on 20M
with two raised radials. This should not be the case but was for me when I
tried this comparison.Another advantage of the AlexLoop is that you can
change bands so easily. At night time no one wants to run outdoors and
reconfigure a Buddipole - all I do is retune the AlexLoop which is sitting
inside the room with me at arms length. The AlexLoop is a useful antenna
for portable operations. It is well packaged and easily assembled.
Good luck my friend. These are just my experiences. Again I suggest
you read the clipping of my review in Echo Ireland.
73 Doug EI2CN
-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of stan
levandowski
Sent: 12 July 2016 20:24
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
I would like to correspond with anyone who has experience using the
Alexloop antenna with 1-2 watts.
Normally, I use either an end fed antenna and a T1, a resonant linked
dipole, or a resonant Par HF Omni-Angle (for 20 and 17 meters). They
all work quite well for their intended use but require some effort to
erect.
I have been reading about the Alexloop Walkham for at least the last two
years. It would present some distinct advantages to me and the reviews
seem to be overwhelmingly positive.
My concern is that while I have a KX2 for my home station, I only take
my LNR five band Mountain Topper out on my portable jaunts. On a 9 volt
transistor battery, I get a bit over 1 watt; on 12 volts I get 2.5
watts.
My specific interest is in finding out as much as I can about how this
small Alexloop performs at such low power levels since its efficiency is
reported to be about 7% on 40 meters, rising to about 25% on 20 meters.
An email to Alex has gone unanswered for the last two days.
Thanks and 73 from Stan WB2LQF
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[Elecraft] KPOD
My KPod arrived today after spending an additional day at the post office (actually they had no one to drive the truck yesterday! What a way to run a business). I've gotta tell ya that those 0603 resistors are a tough nut to handle. I managed to stack that supplied SMD resistor on top of the old R82 while severely burning my left index finger. It's not fun soldering under a magnifying glass but I still love the challenge. I'm saving the leaded resistor for my other K3. First impressions are good. See the "half" turns count issue already discussed but after playing with it for a while I find that I like it. Now to fix the SFI. 73, Dan __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Digest, Vol 147, Issue 19
Terry, I'm over 80 and a couple of years ago: In 1987 I bought and installed a US Tower TMM541SS with electric winch and put a Cushcraft A4 and a Tailtwister rotator on it. 13 years later, 2010, I was overwhelmed by SteppIR antennas So, at the Northern/Southern California DXers shindig Visalia, I bought a 3 Element (40 M trombone) powder coated special. Down came the Tailtwister/Mosley/Cushcraft combo and up went the SteppIR and a Yaesu 800 series Rotator. The tower was re-cabled 8 years ago. The STeppIR and Yaesu rotator once tweeked have performed flawlessly since. My transceiver, K3 of course...with P3. And that's about the size of it. 73 and have fun, John Kountz, WO1S/6, T6EE Message: 18 Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2016 18:21:51 -0700 From: "Terry Brown" To: Subject: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower Message-ID: <016301d1dbdb$c5669450$5033bcf0$@comcast.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello all, I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam and tower date from the time I became a ham. I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with the tower on the west side of the house. I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for my horizontal loop. I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE corner. I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being horizontally polarized. My current one works great so I want the same thing for my new QTH. I look forward to getting some great input from this group. I have been amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB -- Message: 19 Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2016 19:55:53 -0600 From: To: Subject: [Elecraft] FW: Pyle PHA40 Headphone Amp Message-ID: <013601d1dbe0$861d00e0$925702a0$@ka7ftp.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I bought a pyle PHA40
[Elecraft] {OT} Alexloop Walkham Antenna
I would like to correspond with anyone who has experience using the Alexloop antenna with 1-2 watts. Normally, I use either an end fed antenna and a T1, a resonant linked dipole, or a resonant Par HF Omni-Angle (for 20 and 17 meters). They all work quite well for their intended use but require some effort to erect. I have been reading about the Alexloop Walkham for at least the last two years. It would present some distinct advantages to me and the reviews seem to be overwhelmingly positive. My concern is that while I have a KX2 for my home station, I only take my LNR five band Mountain Topper out on my portable jaunts. On a 9 volt transistor battery, I get a bit over 1 watt; on 12 volts I get 2.5 watts. My specific interest is in finding out as much as I can about how this small Alexloop performs at such low power levels since its efficiency is reported to be about 7% on 40 meters, rising to about 25% on 20 meters. An email to Alex has gone unanswered for the last two days. Thanks and 73 from Stan WB2LQF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Portable Ant
I've recently been using an 11 meter fishing pole to hold up a 21 meter wire, and it works quite well on 20 and 40. (It should also work on 10 and 15, and a shorter wire on 30.) I can get the antenna up in about 10 minutes almost anywhere there's enough room. Obviously, the pole could hold various lengths of wire in all sorts of configurations, like a half wave vertical or inverted L. Just about anything more than 11 meters long ought to work better than a short loaded vertical. The internal tuner won't load a half wave multiple like this wire, so I built a small tuner. The internal tuner would probably match a quarter wave (3/4 wave, etc.) with radials on the ground, but that kind of antenna might not be as effective. The pole is: http://www.allfishingbuy.com/Fishing-Pole/Pole-A2-83-2-12017.htm It weighs just 600 g. (This outfit has others longer/shorter/heavier/cheaper.) I'd be glad to share the tuner design. 73, Scott K9MA On 7/11/2016 08:37, Robert Reiman wrote: What portable or walk about Antenna could I use with my KX2? 72's Bob kb9ivakb9...@sbcglobal.net __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to k...@sdellington.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Charging LiFePO4 Batteries
Thanks Jim!!! Here is what I take from that Say, you have a 100+ Ah battery and a 10 amp max charge current (limited) on the charger. (And assuming the charger meets other requirements for CC/CV voltage during CC and the desired Voltage during CV (trickle current cell balancing). Assuming a K3s/P3 for instance with only the 100W internal PA... During Transmit, the rig pulls anywhere up to about 15 amps or so on peaks (my experience). On receive, the rig is pulling well less than 1.5 amps... So, on receive... MOST of the time, the charger will be charging the battery and when at rest, even with the rig on say overnight (I seldom do this), the battery will easily reach full charge and enter CV cycle which is where the cell balancing happens. On a contest where the TX duty cycle is much higher say 50+%, The battery will be averaging somewhere around it's 10 Hr charge current in power draw... So, for the duration of the contest (or high duty cycle session) the battery will remain in the CC charge cycle. At the conclusion of the high duty cycle use, the battery will continue in CC until it is fully charged and thence to CV for maintenance/cell balance... I don't think there is going to be anything super tough about this one... IF a commercial solution doesn't present, I will proceed on the path of finding/building a linear supply that will provide at least the required voltage and trim (if necessary) it with a well-designed linear regulator circuit to the CC voltage required. Add a second linear regulator that provides the CV voltage Then add a sense/feedback circuit that monitors the battery for the event/events that signals the need to switch from CC to CV or CV to CC... Seems pretty doable... unless I am missing something... 73, _ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/12/2016 2:16 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > This is what I got from Kevin. We also spoke on the phone. > > On the phone, Kevin clarified that as long as the charger was "proper" > for LiFePO4 chemistry and charge current was safely limited, an > LiFePO4 battery will NOT be damaged if charged during discharge. His > only concern was that the battery might not reach full charge simply > because more current was being drawn than was being supplied by the > charger. > > SO -- the bottom line is that LiFePO4 batteries ARE suitable for use > as the main power source in a station where a charger is always > connected as long as the charger has the proper charging > characteristics for the LiFePO4 in use. In general, battery life is > maximized if the maximum charging current is no greater than the 4-10 > hour discharge current. For example, a 10A charger is sold by Bioenno > with their 40 - 100Ah batteries. Higher charging currents reduce > battery life. > > Kevin also said that they have taken our concerns seriously with > respect to RFI from chargers, and that they have begun working on > sourcing chargers that are RF quiet. He noted that it typically takes > 3-6 months to find potential candidates, evaluate them, and get them > in inventory. I've volunteered to evaluate them in my station for noise. > > Bioenno also works with Powerwerx, so they are generally aware of > connector issues. He said that they are using the larger connector as > standard because some of their customers need the larger connector > with the higher current rating. The grey SB50 connectors used in the > ham world are rated for 50A. > > 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Charging LiFePO4 Batteries
This is what I got from Kevin. We also spoke on the phone. On the phone, Kevin clarified that as long as the charger was "proper" for LiFePO4 chemistry and charge current was safely limited, an LiFePO4 battery will NOT be damaged if charged during discharge. His only concern was that the battery might not reach full charge simply because more current was being drawn than was being supplied by the charger. SO -- the bottom line is that LiFePO4 batteries ARE suitable for use as the main power source in a station where a charger is always connected as long as the charger has the proper charging characteristics for the LiFePO4 in use. In general, battery life is maximized if the maximum charging current is no greater than the 4-10 hour discharge current. For example, a 10A charger is sold by Bioenno with their 40 - 100Ah batteries. Higher charging currents reduce battery life. Kevin also said that they have taken our concerns seriously with respect to RFI from chargers, and that they have begun working on sourcing chargers that are RF quiet. He noted that it typically takes 3-6 months to find potential candidates, evaluate them, and get them in inventory. I've volunteered to evaluate them in my station for noise. Bioenno also works with Powerwerx, so they are generally aware of connector issues. He said that they are using the larger connector as standard because some of their customers need the larger connector with the higher current rating. The grey SB50 connectors used in the ham world are rated for 50A. 73, Jim K9YC On Tue,7/12/2016 11:39 AM, Kevin Zanjani wrote: Hi Jim, I needed to clarify my response. Maybe it's easier to explain over the phone. My number is 714-336-2953 The batteries with the bundled chargers, use constant current, followed by constant voltage to charge the batteries. Generally, with these chargers, if the battery is loaded while the charger is attempting to charge the battery (under a high load condition), then the battery may not be able to achieve a full charge as its loaded under a high load condition (it would certainly charge). If the load is fairly low amperage, that is less than the charge current, then yes the battery can take the full charge. With the PWR gate, you can certainly charge and discharge the battery, because there is a separate power supply that can provide a large enough charge current to the battery, while also supplying power to the radio from that supply . So in that setup, it is perfectly fine. So it depends on the charge current available to charge battery versus the load power to ensure the battery takes a full charge. -Kevin On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 10:52 AM, Jim Brown mailto:k...@audiosystemsgroup.com>> wrote: Kevin, I've been using the battery for about a week. Some correspondence you had with Wes Stewart concerns me greatly -- in effect, it negates the use of the battery in my station. I bit of background. Most ham gear is designed to run from a DC source in the range of 12-14V, and its performance is best near the top of that range. For many years, I've used flooded lead acid cells that are float-charged as the primary power source for the 12V equipment in my station, but had to accept the fact that for most of their discharge, they are at 12V or less. The primary reason for going to LiFePO4 chemistry is the discharge curve, with most of the battery's capacity above 12.5V. I am a contester. Typical contest operation for me is with two radios, each drawing about 1.5A in receive mode and between 10-20A in transmit mode, depending on the contest. Only one radio is transmitting at a time. The 10A contests are 36 hour events, the 20A contests are 10 hours long. It doesn't take much arithmetic to realize that a 100Ah battery must be charged during operation to handle the load. Your response to Wes seemed to indicate that LiFePO4 batteries cannot be charged during use -- that is, that they must go through a discharge cycle. I can find no technical references online for this statement, so I'd like to know the basis of your advice to Wes. Can you point me to technical references for this? Some other comments now that I've been using the battery in my station for several days. The PowerGate controller seems to work fine -- IF the power supply is set to a high enough terminal voltage to provide 10A charge current. The 4A charger you provided for my 20Ah battery pack works fine, but generates significant levels of RF noise. I can suppress that noise somewhat, but not well enough, by winding multiple turns of both AC and DC cables through ferrite cores to form common mode chokes. I've seen comments online from other users of your chargers indicating that they are too noisy to use in a radio environment. As I told you last week, it is important that you fin
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion
Well, please pardon my inquiry. I must have missed your earlier posting of it. Have a nice day. O:-) __ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/12/2016 11:29 AM, Wes Stewart wrote: > I've given the reference already. > > I'm not saying I necessarily agree with it, I'm just the messenger. I > suppose that when I posted my first message I should have added, > "According to the vendor, you cannot..." > > On 7/12/2016 6:39 AM, Clay Autery wrote: >> I'd like to see the reference on that one, too. As I EVENTUALLY will >> add high Ah batts to run pretty much all my household electronics, et >> al. >> Even if this is a true issue, no matter. Will just have to engineer >> around it 2x batts with power consumption fed "clock" and >> auto-switching comes to mind as a 1st brainstorm. :-) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Problems with band decoder
I do not have any issues with a KPA500/KAT500 and a Top Ten band decoder using a Y supplied by Elecraft. John KK9A from: Jim Spauldingm Tue Jul 12 12:07:51 EDT 2016 I am using a Y cable from the K3 Aux port to a KPA500 and a WX0B band decoder for a six pack antenna switch. When the Band Decoder is added, the KPA500 does not automatically follow band changes from the K3 although band changes on the KPA500 flow to the K3. Has anyone else had this problem and is there an easy fix? Jim W0UO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] HamRadio 360 interview with Wayne N6KR on the KX2
Hi George, Thanks again for the opportunity (and some great interview questions). As usual, the Bay-Net field day was a blast. (Note to those interested in the KX2's design philosophy, etc.: this portion of the podcast starts around 33 minutes in. I spend quite a bit of time comparing the KX3 and KX2 and talking about the more adventurous side of ham radio.) 73, Wayne N6KR > > At our Bay-Net (www.bay-net.org) Field Day, I had a chance to chat with Wayne > about the design of the KX2 radio. You can listen to the interview on our > HamRadio 360 podcast that just went live this morning. > > > > You can find the latest episode on our web site www.hamradio360.com where you > can listen or download the episodes or you can subscribe for free on your > iphone / Android phone / or tablet at iTunes, Stitcher, and just about any > podcast player. Just search for Ham Radio 360. > > > > We also had 6 hours of coverage from Dayton over three episodes including an > interview with Eric on the KX2 and his FDIM keynote talk. You can download > those back episodes as well. > > > > You may also be interested in our new podcast series called the HamRadio 360 > Workbench. > > We alternate every other week between a general topic on HamRadio 360 and a > Workbench episode. > > > > On the Workbench show we are starting out with the basics of setting up your > workbench, tools, test equipment, parts, making PCBs, etc. In a few months > we will also be doing a cool group build project. We have not announced what > the project will be yet but I bet a lot of you will like it. Tune in to find > out more. > > > > 73 DE George KJ6VU > > HamRadio 360 Workbench __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion
I've given the reference already. I'm not saying I necessarily agree with it, I'm just the messenger. I suppose that when I posted my first message I should have added, "According to the vendor, you cannot..." On 7/12/2016 6:39 AM, Clay Autery wrote: I'd like to see the reference on that one, too. As I EVENTUALLY will add high Ah batts to run pretty much all my household electronics, et al. Even if this is a true issue, no matter. Will just have to engineer around it 2x batts with power consumption fed "clock" and auto-switching comes to mind as a 1st brainstorm. :-) __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S
On 7/11/2016 3:41 PM, Bob Nielsen wrote: The batteries in my systems probably need replacing. UPSes typically use some form of VRLA battery. With computers, they're really to bridge short outages or allow a computer to gracefully shut down, and the designers assume that power outages are somewhat rare. If you want these batteries to last, you try to keep the continuous draw near or below the ten hour rate -- same as the charging rate. In other words, the UPS should last 10 hours with a normal load. Instead, most last about 15 minutes, and after a few cycles, the batteries are fried. I've removed the internal batteries and replaced them with much larger VRLA batteries, often at less than APC or Tripp wants for "proper" replacements. Be sure to use fuses and protect the terminals so you don't hit them with something metal accidentally. VRLA batteries can safely be used indoors. A big hint is that most of these are "UPS shippable." 73 -- Lynn __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and N1MM F-Keys
Thanks for all the help. The Repeat delay is now fixed. Part of the problem was the timing and not enough space. The majority of the problem was with what as typed in for the the different F keys. Very touchy on how or what was typed. Once all the errors and bugs were fixed the Repeat delay started to work so then I proceeded to set that up with the rights times. Jim K9TF __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] KX2 mini-banana plug improvement
Hi, Don't try to transmit through any of those, even QRP! They are for receive only such as FM and TV. I also doubt that most of them are effective below 50MHz. AB2TC - Knut David Christ wrote > It says balun connector. Does that mean it is like the old F to twin lead > connectors that had a balun internally. If so I don’t think it would do > what you want it to. > > David K0LUM > >> On Jul 11, 2016, at 3:08 AM, Szabó István < > ha4zd@ > > wrote: >> >> Could these BNC adapters be used for it? No additional weight, no more >> space required. >> >> http://www.ebay.com/itm/381429029110 >> >> >> 73, István, HA4ZD >> >> >> > -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KX2-mini-banana-plug-improvement-tp7619796p7620002.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Problems with band decoder
I am using a Y cable from the K3 Aux port to a KPA500 and a WX0B band decoder for a six pack antenna switch. When the Band Decoder is added, the KPA500 does not automatically follow band changes from the K3 although band changes on the KPA500 flow to the K3. Has anyone else had this problem and is there an easy fix? Jim W0UO __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Many years ago I replaced a TA 33 with a Force 12 C3, I saw one db improvement in signals testing 15 meters and 20 meters ( before then after) with a station 30 miles away, it was even on 10 meters, in all ways of comparison it was better, I later put the 40 meter element on it which had its own feed line simply a great antenna is my report, which proved out chasing dx before then after how many tries how much power. On a tower I would also check out the aluminum crank up getting the pro and con input from others a friend had one many years ago was happy with it. If the antenna at low rest height is right you work on the antenna from the roof a benefit of putting it by the house. Regards Art ka9zap On 7/12/2016 8:44 AM, j...@kk9a.com wrote: The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be able to work a lot of stations with this setup. Before buying the antenna I would suggest that you read the tribander test report. http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2 John KK9A from: Terry Brown n7tb Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016 Hello all, I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to ka9...@gmail.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Terry, with the assistance and skill of the legendary Skip, KJ6Y, I have just had installed the US Tower MA-40, and cannot recommend it more highly especially for a tight urban lot. The tubular tower easily supports a 63-pound SteppIR DB-11 plus a smaller 40M rotatable MFJ dipole. It rests when I’m not operating at the roof level, and rises to well above roof line (2 story house) fully extended. This is a mighty little tower. Happy to round up some still shots for you off-list if you wish. David Ahrendts, KK6DA, Los Angeles > Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016 > > Hello all, > > > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > questions: > > > > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have > been spoiled with that setup over the years. > > > Thanks in advance to you all. > > > > 73's, > > > > Terry Brown, N7TB > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to davidahren...@me.com David Ahrendts davidahren...@me.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] 240V Power Connectors
I think that since the breaker is for 30A I might just be able to install a NEMA 14-30 receptacle and connect the equipment ground pin to the steel conduit using a pigtail (and the two hots and neutral to the corresponding pins): http://waterheatertimer.org/images/240-Volt-outlet4-253.jpg Any cautions against doing this? I believe all the wall receptacles in my home have the equipment ground pin connected to the steel conduit, and that there are no separate wires run for equipment ground. 73, Matt NQ6N On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 9:36 AM, Clay Autery wrote: > Yup... I've used those... I am a BIG fan of the twist-lock NEMA 240VDC > plugs/receptacles for the MAIN 240 source coming into movable racks... > > __ > Clay Autery, KY5G > MONTAC Enterprises > (318) 518-1389 > > On 7/11/2016 5:16 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > > Assuming you have 20A breakers and #12 or larger copper, you want NEMA > > 6-20. See this link. > > > > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector > > > > 73, Jim > > > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to m...@nq6n.com > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] 240V Power Connectors
Yup... I've used those... I am a BIG fan of the twist-lock NEMA 240VDC plugs/receptacles for the MAIN 240 source coming into movable racks... __ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/11/2016 5:16 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > Assuming you have 20A breakers and #12 or larger copper, you want NEMA > 6-20. See this link. > > https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector > > 73, Jim > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion
That seals it... HAM "quiet" charging/operation system is definitely on the list now. I bought the little 2A charger to get me by with my little 12 Ah batt for use with RFI/noise hunting for now. But I'm going to start reading/researching and putting together a requirements list for a "proper" charging/operating system for the LiFePO batts. I like the idea/concept of the PowerGate, RigRunner, etc... And it would be nice to have a system that could run from a large cap LFP and still charge... while during non-op periods could charge to capacity and thence complete the cell balancing... (I'm assuming that is how it works generally). Time to learn something new... :-) As an aside... Jim, I think I read in one of the Bioenno batt docs that the output voltage is somewhere around 12.8 VDC... so it is "closer" to nominal... A "nice to have feature" in a system WOULD be to be able to find a way to "boost" the voltage to 13.8+ to realize the lower full power IMD, WHILE simultaneously keeping the power system "quiet". Not a priority right now. __ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/11/2016 4:55 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > On Mon,7/11/2016 1:49 PM, Marc Veeneman via Elecraft wrote: >> But beware the charger RFI. The 10 amp chargers from BioennoPower >> are strong generators and I can't use them in the shack to recharge >> either the battery in use or any other battery while I'm on 80 meter CW. > > Thanks for all of your input, Marc. Be sure to tell BioennoPower that > the charger they sold you is unacceptable, and return it for credit. > I've already told them it's a problem that they must solve if they are > to be successful in the ham marketplace, but they should hear it from > other customers. > > When I asked, they told me that the chargers they sell are noisy, so I > didn't buy one. They told me that one of their dealers out east had > recommended using the PowerGate jumpered for AGM batteries with a > linear supply adjusted to provide the charging current, and that they > would consider that an in-warranty setup. I'm currently doing that > with a 100Ah battery I just bought, but I'm not thrilled with it. > > The difference between 12V and 14.2 volts doesn't matter for ham gear > except that higher voltage reduces IMD in the K3 output stage at full > power output. > > 73, Jim K9YC __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Uninterruptible Power Supply for K3S
John, I haven't read all the replies yet. I'm sure you will get a variety of responses, such as mine. About 40 years ago when color TV's were more expensive, my neighborhood got a momentary hit in the power, and it came back with a voltage spike that took out too many TV's to count. To prevent that from happening to my ham gear, I made a box with multiple outlets all switched by one relay that locks up through it's own contacts. I have momentary push button switches to operate, or release, the relay. Should the power take a momentary hit, the relay drops and opens the AC line to my equipment. If the power comes back with a voltage spike, my equipment doesn't see it. (This may result in a discussion about MOV's) I have a 100 watt station. I prefer to float a battery across my 12 volt line to allow me to properly shut down my equipment should the power go out. I have had several qso's with people who use 12 V battery power exclusively. Some live where there is no power grid. Also, I have a UPS that powers a lamp at my operating position so that I can see to power down my equipment. I hope to eliminate this with a good 12 Volt LED lamp when I find one. Dick, n0ce On 7/11/2016 1:36 PM, stengrevics wrote: To deal with a power line noise problem, someone suggested I try an uninterruptible power supply (UPS). Does anyone have any experience doing this? If so, what UPS specifications are appropriate to handle the K3S? My apologies if this has been previously discussed. Please do provide a link if it has. 73, John WA1EAZ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Now that the K-Pod is shipping,
need a longer rj cable for kpod is there a reason that an rj12 6c straight thru would not work,??? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
> There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the > venerable TA-33. Force 12 XR-5 or JK Antennas Navassa 5 both cover 20, 17, 15, 12 and 10 meters. Both are available with a 6 meter (XR-6 or 6M add-on) option. Although the antennas have two active elements er band, they they have boom lengths equal or less than the TA-33/TA-33jr and the full size elements mean they are much more efficient than the Mosley antennas. The Force 12 or Navassa provide full performance on up to six bands in a package the size and weight of the TA-33 (or TA33JR-WARC). 73, ... Joe, W4TV On 7/12/2016 9:12 AM, Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP wrote: Hello Terry, In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some distance from the house. Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, though. I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, but has a wider bandwidth. There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the venerable TA-33. Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. 73, Vic, 4X6GP Rehovot, Israel Formerly K2VCO http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: Hello all, I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam and tower date from the time I became a ham. I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with the tower on the west side of the house. \ I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion
Sounds like an engineering challenge to me... if it hasn't been answered "open source" before I get to that step, one that I might take on... A flexible design that is "quiet" and treat the LiFePO battery(ies) as they "need" for maximal lifespan, and allowing them to be used for operation w/ "float", and/or standard charging... CC/CV charging PLUS. __ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/11/2016 3:49 PM, Marc Veeneman via Elecraft wrote: > Actually you can charge and operate at the same time. Basic charge voltage > is 13.2 and finishing voltage is 14.6 volts. I've never had a problem with > any Elecraft (or other) ham gear at either voltage. > > Float charge would work just fine but I wouldn't make a habit of it. The > control modules wired between cells need 14.6 volts (for 4S configurations) > to trigger their cell balancing ability. Lead acid cells balance > automatically when in series. LiFePO4 cells do not. > > But beware the charger RFI. The 10 amp chargers from BioennoPower are strong > generators and I can't use them in the shack to recharge either the battery > in use or any other battery while I'm on 80 meter CW. > > I'm testing some alternative high amp chargers and have found at least one > that is RFI quiet. I'll be testing a second, less expensive, alternative > this week. > -- Marc __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
The antenna just over your roof line should not be a problem. You will be able to work a lot of stations with this setup. Before buying the antenna I would suggest that you read the tribander test report. http://www.championradio.com/HF-TRIBANDER-PERFORMANCE-TEST-METHODS-RESULTS.2 John KK9A from: Terry Brown n7tb Mon Jul 11 21:21:51 EDT 2016 Hello all, I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I don't have the tilt base. I bought my MA40 and beam used, so not sure of its age. Quality seems fine. I made an adapter for a cordless drill to allow me to crank it up and down without cranking. Vic is correct that the TA33Jr is a little more narrow banded than some leather beams. However, I use it successfully on both CW and SSB without a tuner. It has a lot less wind load than a full sized triband beam, which is important with a tower of that type if the rotor is placed at the top as I have it. Might not be as big an issue if you rotate the whole tower. On Tue, Jul 12, 2016 at 8:28 AM Mel Farrer via Elecraft < elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote: > Don't discount the Hex Beam concept. > Mel, K6KBE > > > From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown > Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM > Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower > > Hello Terry, > > In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower > is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along > the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the > antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you > any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some > distance from the house. > > Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of > the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, > though. > > I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will > have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may > find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, > but has a wider bandwidth. > > There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the > venerable TA-33. > > Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. > In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. > > 73, > Vic, 4X6GP > Rehovot, Israel > Formerly K2VCO > http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ > > On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: > > Hello all, > > > > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since > > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am > > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I > > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On > the > > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam > > and tower date from the time I became a ham. > > > > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, > > Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower > setup. > > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is > > amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight > > rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. > My > > home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my > > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be > about > > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S > with > > the tower on the west side of the house. \ > > > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the > US > > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not > being > > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. > which > > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting > to > > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to > physically > > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > > questions: > > > > 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive > antenna on > > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be > the > > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > > > 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower > is > > just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any > > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular > > constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of > installation. > > A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. > > > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain.
Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Bioenno's July Promotion
I'd like to see the reference on that one, too. As I EVENTUALLY will add high Ah batts to run pretty much all my household electronics, et al. Even if this is a true issue, no matter. Will just have to engineer around it 2x batts with power consumption fed "clock" and auto-switching comes to mind as a 1st brainstorm. :-) __ Clay Autery, KY5G MONTAC Enterprises (318) 518-1389 On 7/11/2016 3:46 PM, Jim Brown wrote: > On Mon,7/11/2016 12:58 PM, Wes Stewart wrote: >> Perhaps it would be overkill to consider one of these for my purpose >> anyway, but based on this thread my interest was piqued about using >> one of these in the shack to cover short power outages. I've learned >> that you CANNOT charge and feed a load at the same time, i.e float >> charge. > > Hi Wes, > > Where did you learn this? References I can study? I looked and didn't > find anything saying that, and that's what I plan to do with the 100Ah > battery I just bought. > > 73, Jim K9YC > > __ > Elecraft mailing list > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html > Message delivered to caut...@montac.com __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] KX2
Last week at the Lobstercon hamfest in Brunswick Maine. I had an opportunity to pit my KX3 against a new KX2. As far as performance they seem to be identical. We were using a 250 foot end fed random wire and running and running the rigs off of both internal and external batteries. The performance of both the KX2 and KX3 were identical as much as we could determine. I had no problem operating the KX2's front panel controls other then a small learning curve when first using the rig. The KX2 seems to perform very well and it's internal battery really runs the rig well. I don't think I will get the KX2 anytime soon but it is a great rig. -- Dave Robertson KD1NA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Don't discount the Hex Beam concept. Mel, K6KBE From: Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; Terry Brown Sent: Tuesday, July 12, 2016 6:12 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower Hello Terry, In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some distance from the house. Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, though. I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, but has a wider bandwidth. There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the venerable TA-33. Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. 73, Vic, 4X6GP Rehovot, Israel Formerly K2VCO http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: > Hello all, > > I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since > 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am > moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I > have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the > tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam > and tower date from the time I became a ham. > > I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, > Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. > My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is > amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight > rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My > home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my > roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about > 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with > the tower on the west side of the house. \ > > I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a > smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US > Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over > base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. > This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being > visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which > would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to > the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically > crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two > questions: > > 1. Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above > the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on > 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the > direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna > will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. > > 2. I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is > just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any > lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular > constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. > A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. > > I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be > neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 > watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also > want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have > been spoiled with that setup over the years. > > Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in > length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended > from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 > balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 > or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a > vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S > side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for > my horizontal loop. I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE > corner. I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being > horizontally polarized. My current one works great so I want the same thing
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
Hello Terry, In my opinion, there will be no problem. I can imagine that if the tower is right at the house and if there is a strip of metal flashing along the peak of the roof it might detune the director slightly when the antenna is pointed east. Maybe. But I can't believe it will cause you any trouble. Anyway, with the tilt base you will have to install it some distance from the house. Remember the tilt base and the rotor plus mast will add to the height of the tower. US Towers also makes a 55-footer. It's a lot more expensive, though. I don't recommend the TA33-JR. Because of the short boom length it will have a narrow bandwidth on 20m. If you operate both CW and SSB you may find that you need to use a tuner. Your old ATB-34 is slightly bigger, but has a wider bandwidth. There are newer designs for small beams that are better than the venerable TA-33. Also if you can find one that works on 18 MHz too, that will be a plus. In the next few years, 10 and 15m will be dead much of the time. 73, Vic, 4X6GP Rehovot, Israel Formerly K2VCO http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ On 12 Jul 2016 04:21, Terry Brown wrote: Hello all, I am the owner if a K2, KX3, PX3, and KXPA100. I have been a ham since 1982, and love my Elecraft gear. I have a question for the group. I am moving from my current QTH in Corvallis, OR after 30 years. Currently I have a Rohn 25 based tower that is about 35 feet above my flat roof. On the tower is a tri-band Cushcraft ATB-34 and 2m/440 comet antennas. The beam and tower date from the time I became a ham. I am building a new home in an established neighborhood in West Salem, Oregon. The CCRs have expired, so I am not restricted from a tower setup. My new QTH is high in the west hills of Salem. The view to the east is amazing as the ground slopes away. To the west, the terrain has a slight rise. I am 68 yrs. old. I don't want to have to climb a tower again. My home will be two stories with the garage level under it. The peak of my roof will be about 34 ft. above grade. My new tower location will be about 32 feet from grade to the peak of the roof. The roofline will run N-S with the tower on the west side of the house. \ I have decided to purchase a new smaller lightweight crankup tower and a smaller tribander such as the Mosley TA-33 JR-N or NW. I have seen the US Towers MA-40, a 20-41ft. crankup as one type. It comes with a tilt over base add-on which would allow me to service the antenna from the ground. This particular two section tower can crank down to 20 ft., thus not being visible from the street east of the house. It's max height is 41 ft. which would put the antenna only 9-10 ft. above the roofline when transmitting to the East. I want to put a winch on the tower so I don't have to physically crank it up by hand as I get older. With this background I have two questions: 1.Will the yagi attached to the tower with only 9-10 ft. height above the roofline (41 ft. tower) be an effective radiator and receive antenna on 20-15-10 meter bands to the East? Being on the West Coast, this will be the direction of most of my mainland US contacts. To the N-W-S, the antenna will be 41 ft. above the ground, so no problem. 2.I am not committed to any particular crankup tower. The US Tower is just the one I have seen on the internet. I would be interested in any lighterweight fold over crank up tower up to 50 ft. I think a tubular constructed type tower would be my preference due to weight of installation. A triangular designed crankup may be ok, too. I know I can have a larger tower and antenna, but I want my setup to be neighbor friendly. I am not a contester, and will never operate over 100 watts. It is nice to be able to work a station if I can hear it. I also want the advantage of a horizontally polarized antenna with gain. I have been spoiled with that setup over the years. Just as an aside, my other antenna is a horizontal loop about 250 ft. in length that I use for all the other bands. It is up about 30 ft. suspended from the trees in my current QTH. I feed it with 450 ohm ladder into a 4:1 balun to coax. At my new QTH, we will plant two contained planters with 20 or 30 ft. bamboo on the SW and NW corners of my property where I can put a vertical pipe for two supports, then use the peak of my roof on the N and S side at 34 Ft. for my NE and SE contact points for my other two corners for my horizontal loop. I will feed it with the same 450 ohm ladder from the NE corner. I really like my horizontal loop because it is so quiet being horizontally polarized. My current one works great so I want the same thing for my new QTH. I look forward to getting some great input from this group. I have been amazed at the level of quality information I have seen on this group. Thanks in advance to you all. 73's, Terry Brown, N7TB __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailm
[Elecraft] Let me build a K2 for you
Let me build your K2, or any other Elecraft kit. My prices are reasonable, and you will have a new radio with the options you want. 73 Alan W1HYV __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Need advice on Small Tower
I also moved and down sized my antenna/tower. I put up 40' of my 70' Rohn 25. I added a hazer and can bring the antenna down to the ground, no climbing. I added a worm gear to the hazer and am able to run the hazer with a battery operated drill. I thought about having the tower attached to the side of the house but that would mean climbing on the roof (high pitch) to get to the antenna. My 3el steppir is below the trees and works just fine. 73 Tex ka5y -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Need-advice-on-Small-Tower-tp7619982p7619986.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
