Re: [Elecraft] Vacuum Relays and 30 WPM QSK

[Dr. William J. Schmidt]

Pin diode rf switches are preferred today.  You can even get the QSK-5 kit from 
Ameritron if you can't make your own.   Good to 2500 watts and infinite speed. 


Dr. William J. Schmidt - K9HZ J68HZ 8P6HK ZF2HZ PJ4/K9HZ VP5/K9HZ PJ2/K9HZ
 
Owner - Operator
Big Signal Ranch – K9ZC
Staunton, Illinois
 
Owner – Operator
Villa Grand Piton - J68HZ
Soufriere, St. Lucia W.I.
Rent it: www.VillaGrandPiton.com

email:  b...@wjschmidt.com
 

> On Feb 27, 2017, at 10:28 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On Sun,2/26/2017 3:04 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
>> But even though the K3 is cycling TX/RX very fast the 8410 is not banging
>> the vacuum relay to death trying to follow 30 wpm dits. 30 wpm QSK*does*
>> significantly shorten relay time to failure. Contesting, I've worn some out
>> in less than a year.
> 
> I own three very nice vintage Ten Tec amps that use vacuum relays. All of 
> them came to me used, and I've replaced those relays in each amp at least 
> once. After a few rounds of that, I stopped running QSK with those amps. :) 
> I'd like to hear from others having experience with vacuum relays and QSK at 
> contesting speeds. I mostly work between 28 and 32 WPM. The original 
> equipment relays were Jennings, and I've mostly used Gigavac as replacements. 
> I haven't had to replace one since giving up on QSK about 8 years ago, but I 
> really would like to run QSK. Have I made the right decision to avoid it when 
> running with a vacuum relay?
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Vacuum Relays and 30 WPM QSK

[WILLIE BABER]

I have worn out vacuum relays in qsk amps too (replaced only one time in my 12 
year-old Alpha 99).  In fact, qsk with vacuum relays is not really qsk in that 
a vacuum relay is not as fast and silent as what I experienced using Alpha 89, 
which had switching diodes in it. Alpha 89 to me is the only qsk amp I have 
used (at ny4a).  You could, in fact, hear been characters at 30 wpm.  

I was disappointed when I purchased my first vacuum relay amp, Alpha 99.  Alpha 
99 was defined as qsk but it didn't switch like an Alpha 89.  Seems silly now 
but since Alpha 99 was defined as "qsk" I expected it to behavior like Alpha 
89.   

I even looked around for awhile for an Alpha 89, but then learn how easy it is 
to blow the diodes in Alpha 89--many owners replaced those expensive diodes, 
once blown, with vacuum relays.  So, I just decided to run "almost qsk" 
compared to Alpha 89.

73, Will, wj9b  

CWops #1085
CWA Advisor levels II and III
http://cwops.org/


On Mon, 2/27/17, Jim Brown  wrote:

 Subject: [Elecraft] Vacuum Relays and 30 WPM QSK
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Date: Monday, February 27, 2017, 9:28 PM
 
 On Sun,2/26/2017 3:04 PM,
 Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:
 > But even though
 the K3 is cycling TX/RX very fast the 8410 is not banging
 > the vacuum relay to death trying to follow
 30 wpm dits. 30 wpm QSK*does*
 >
 significantly shorten relay time to failure. Contesting,
 I've worn some out
 > in less than a
 year.
 
 I own three very nice
 vintage Ten Tec amps that use vacuum relays. All 
 of them came to me used, and I've replaced
 those relays in each amp at 
 least once.
 After a few rounds of that, I stopped running QSK with those
 
 amps. :) I'd like to hear from others
 having experience with vacuum 
 relays and
 QSK at contesting speeds. I mostly work between 28 and 32
 
 WPM. The original equipment relays were
 Jennings, and I've mostly used 
 Gigavac
 as replacements. I haven't had to replace one since
 giving up on 
 QSK about 8 years ago, but I
 really would like to run QSK. Have I made 
 the right decision to avoid it when running
 with a vacuum relay?
 
 73,
 Jim K9YC
 
 
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[Elecraft] Vacuum Relays and 30 WPM QSK

[Jim Brown]

On Sun,2/26/2017 3:04 PM, Guy Olinger K2AV wrote:

But even though the K3 is cycling TX/RX very fast the 8410 is not banging
the vacuum relay to death trying to follow 30 wpm dits. 30 wpm QSK*does*
significantly shorten relay time to failure. Contesting, I've worn some out
in less than a year.


I own three very nice vintage Ten Tec amps that use vacuum relays. All 
of them came to me used, and I've replaced those relays in each amp at 
least once. After a few rounds of that, I stopped running QSK with those 
amps. :) I'd like to hear from others having experience with vacuum 
relays and QSK at contesting speeds. I mostly work between 28 and 32 
WPM. The original equipment relays were Jennings, and I've mostly used 
Gigavac as replacements. I haven't had to replace one since giving up on 
QSK about 8 years ago, but I really would like to run QSK. Have I made 
the right decision to avoid it when running with a vacuum relay?


73, Jim K9YC


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[Elecraft] KX3 + 2-Meter Option For Sale

[Phil Hystad]

I am selling my KX3 which includes the 2-meter option.  Full complement of 
options and features include:

— KX3 160-6M Transceiver (Serial number #2148)
— KXAT3 Internal wide range 20-watt automatic tuner
— KXBC3 Internal NiMH Charger with Real-time Clock
— KXFL3 Dual-Passband Roofing Filter
— MH3 Hand-microphone
— KXUSB USB Interface Cable
— KX3-2M-AT 2-Meter Module for KX3 with ATU

A fully equipped KX3 in perfect operating condition with no dings, marks, or 
other problems.  Of course a
non-smoking environment.  

The 2-meter module was installed by Elecraft and calibrated and operates 
perfectly.

In addition to the above list, the package will include all documentation that 
came with the KX3 and the 2-meter option as well as various cables and 
connectors.  Also included is the Fred Cady Elecraft KX3 Manual.

Price:  $1500 inclusive of packing and shipping fees for CONUS delivery.

Please contact off of the group.

73, phil, K7PEH


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[Elecraft] K2 12m Alignment

[Robert Kasten]

My Fluke doesn't measure caps below 100pf, so to test the K2's 12m BPF caps
(including the 1pf), I ended up getting some cheap $15 made-in-China-junk
called a "Honeytek A6013L Capacitor Tester" and assumed I would be
returning it...but I was quite pleasantly surprised at its ability to
pretty reliably measure the 1pf cap. Anyway just another data point...
Bob / K0LAK

Date: Mon, 27 Feb 2017 15:13:19 -0800
> From: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
> To: "'Dauer, Edward'" ,  
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m Alignment
> Message-ID: <001601d2914f$1604c160$420e4420$@biz>
> Content-Type: text/plain;   charset="utf-8"
>
> For those who have a DMM with capacitance measuring capabilities, you can
> measure small caps well enough to separate caps (within a couple of pF) by
> setting the meter on the bench and running the leads to where you can apply
> the probes to the capacitor without moving them. Hold the probes near the
> capacitor and note the reading, then touch the terminals of the cap and
> note the change. The change is the capacitance of the unit under test.
> That is a neat little kit, Ted. Tnx for the lead.
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
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[Elecraft] K3 vs Icom 7300 and 2khz spacing tests

[Dick via Elecraft]

Indeed, I'd like to see more receiver testing done on receivers at 500hz  
spacing.
 
73,
Dick- K9OM
 
 
 
In a message dated 2/27/2017 9:57:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
elecraft-requ...@mailman.qth.net writes:

Keep in  mind that the Sherwood rankings are based on 3rd Order Dynamic 
Range at 2 Khz  spacing ? not on any other factor, and not on some general 
measure of a  radio?s ?goodness?.   While it isn?t necessarily unimportant even 
 
for casual rag chewing, it may not be the most important  consideration.

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Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,2/27/2017 3:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:
The inverted L will have some horizontally polarized radiation. 



Yes, but not much, because radiation is the result of current, and 
current is maximum at the bottom and minimum at the far end of the wire. 
And Fred is right on about verticals generally being noisier on RX. But 
not always.


I have a Tee vertical for 160M that works well. 100 ft tall.

Ed, the thing to remember about verticals is that they need an effective 
counterpoise. That can be anything from radials to a screen to a K2AV 
folded counterpoise. AND that verticals are VERY dependent on the 
quality of the soil around you.


There are lots of ideals about this stuff on my website. Study the 
material about getting on 160M, and divide all the dimensions by 2 for 
80M. Then look at my tutorials on verticals vs horizontal antennas. 
k9yc.com/publish.htm  They are written to answer exactly the questions 
you are asking.


73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] Fwd: Help with Headphones

[Tom]

I apologize to Bill for sending this direct to him.  I meant to send it to
the group.

73,
Tom - KQ5S


Thanks Bill.  I saw the quote below in Fred's, KE7X, K3s book which caused
me some confusion.  It seems as though he is saying if you use monaural
headphones then you should not set the speakers to 2.  I don't want to give
up AFX or sub audio.

"You may use a monaural headphone set in this jack (which would short the
ring connection to ground) because the 8.2 resistors will protect the
stereo headphone amplifiers. In this case, though, you should set CONFIG:SPKRS
to 1 . You may use CONFIG:SPKR+PH YES to have audio in both the speaker
output and the headphones. "


73,
Tom - KQ5S

On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 3:40 PM, Nr4c  wrote:

> The warnings are for connecting SPEAKERS to the Rear Speaker jack. You
> SHOULD use a TRS plug to lessen the opportunity of the smoke escaping from
> the speaker stereo amplifier.
>
> There is no such threat to the Phones jack(s).
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
> > On Feb 27, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Tom  wrote:
> >
> > Let me see if I can explain this.  I have two speakers hooked up to my
> K3s
> > using the appropriate adapter and have them working fine.   I can hear
> each
> > receiver in a different ear and the AFX function works.  I have a set of
> > Heil headsets that also work the same as the regular speaker.
> >
> > I acquired a wireless headset that plugs directly into the mic input and
> > phone output.  The headsets were originally designed for telephone call
> > center use so they are monaural only.  I can plug them into either the
> > front phone jack or the rear phone jack and I hear the audio just fine.
> I
> > have the Config:Spkrs set to 2 since I have to regular speakers and a
> Heil
> > headset that I often monitor and enjoy the AFX and the separate receive
> > audio.  The wireless headset audio is wired with a stereo plug but no
> > connection to the ring.
> >
> > The plan would be to plug the wireless headset into the rear of the radio
> > and either the heil headset or a hand microphone into the front.
> >
> > I read all the warnings about how to connect speakers and headphones.  So
> > is there any harm in connecting the wireless headset(remember it is
> > monoral) to the phone jack using a stereo plug and keeping Config:Spkrs
> 2?
> >
> >
> >
> > 73,
> > Tom - KQ5S
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Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Fred Jensen]

Verticals are generally an S-unit or maybe 2 noisier on receive than 
horizontal antennas unless you are in a very quiet location.  A base-fed 
1/4 wave [or less] vertical is analogous to a telegraph line with one 
wire, using ground as the return.  If you can't put in a good ground 
system, you'll be disappointed.  I have used Inv-L's and Marconi T's 
with as few as 2 radials on the ground, and they worked, but that's not 
saying much when the alternative was no antenna at all.


Your idea for top loading with the guys will work fine, that's how WWV 
loads their antennas and the way many LORAN-C antennas were loaded.  My 
last 160m inv-L had about 70 ft vertical and the top horizontal was 
about 30 ft which is a bit under 1/4 wavelength. The impedance at the 
bottom was about 57+j130 ohms which matched the 50 ohm coax nicely with 
just a variable cap in series.  I was able to get 12 radials out a few 
inches under the surface.  Worked very good for transmitting, receiving 
... not so much.  It was pretty noisy.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County
On 2/27/2017 3:43 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Ted,

The inverted L will have some horizontally polarized radiation. The 
other top loaded verticals should have only vertically polarized 
radiation - assuming that the top loading is symmetrical, whether that 
be a capacity hat or a T wire.


In general, the vertically polarized radiation will be at a lower 
angle than horizontally polarized, but that all depends on the ground 
conductivity and your radial system.  A radial system of 64 radials is 
good if your ground conductivity is decent, but if you are in an area 
where ground conductivity is poor, you may have better luck with 
horizontal antennas or an inverted Vee - the higher the better.


So the answer is "it all depends".  If you do not have a wonderful 
ground screen, a vertical may perform worse than a horizontal antenna 
because a lot of your RF goes into "heating the worms".


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Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Irma Linas]

Ted,

I would recommend very much the site of DJ0IP for tonns of brilliant ideas
on really working antennas. And also a great article of N6LF in QST March,
2010 on radials. You don't need to have 64 or 164 or a chicken mash all
over the field to get the very eficient antenna working DX. 16 is enough.
Based on these excellent sources, I have used myself with great success the
vertical on 80/40 on the 18m Spider mast with the 16 rqdials 12 m long
each. The other time , in the CQWW CW contest, I had no chance to erect the
18m Spider pole due to cold wx condx, so I put up a modernized 43ft
vertical S9 ( a fiberglass pole , actually with the 43 ft of wire inside).
Modernization has come just to adding some 6 more meters of wire to the end
of 43 footter ( making 1/4 waveln. on 80) plus a coax trap and some 20m
more of wire after it ( getting 1/4 waveln. on 160). So I had a Inverted L
with the 14m vertical part and some 26m with a trap horizontal part (
sloping down really to a 4m pole ). The same 16 12m radials stayed due to
lack of time to change them into 25 m each which would be better for 160.
Nevertheless this compromise decision brought me a good 220 qsos on 160m
and around 200 on 80, with barefoot K3 trx incl the Japanese and US
stations on 160m which , for me, was a surprisingly good score. No separate
RX antenna. The resonance was very easy to tune to with the help of the
antenna analyser Youkit FG-01.

It would have been best if I could do this trap combo on a Spider mast with
18m vertical and with 16 radials of 25m long. I will try this this coming
spring, weather permitting.

Wish you good luck and lots of fun with practical experimentation in the
field!

73! Linas LY2H





On 2017 vas. 28, an at 01:45 Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Ted,
>
> The inverted L will have some horizontally polarized radiation.  The
> other top loaded verticals should have only vertically polarized
> radiation - assuming that the top loading is symmetrical, whether that
> be a capacity hat or a T wire.
>
> In general, the vertically polarized radiation will be at a lower angle
> than horizontally polarized, but that all depends on the ground
> conductivity and your radial system.  A radial system of 64 radials is
> good if your ground conductivity is decent, but if you are in an area
> where ground conductivity is poor, you may have better luck with
> horizontal antennas or an inverted Vee - the higher the better.
>
> So the answer is "it all depends".  If you do not have a wonderful
> ground screen, a vertical may perform worse than a horizontal antenna
> because a lot of your RF goes into "heating the worms".
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/27/2017 6:13 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:
> > A question that’s admittedly a bit OT – though if I need a pretext, the
> rig to be used is a K3 . . .
> >
> > I have been reading through the usual texts about vertical antennas for
> 80 meters, to replace the half wave dipole I now have and the Vee I had but
> didn’t like.  But I have not yet found the answer to one question I am
> thinking about:  The advantages or disadvantages of an inverted L compared
> to other variations of the top-loaded vertical.
> >
> > Assume a 40-foot ground-mounted vertical section made with wire running
> up a fiberglass mast.  There could be a remote tuner or balun at the base
> if it’s needed.  The top of the vertical section would be guyed with four
> lines more or less parallel to the earth extending from the top tip of the
> vertical section to four suitably located trees.  That physical
> configuration offers three kinds of options.
> >
> > One is an inverted L.  One of the four guy lines would be a wire making
> the L and long enough to have the overall antenna resonate, with
> nonconductive line from there to the tree.  The other three guy lines would
> be nonconductive for their entire length.
> >
> > Another would be the classic top-loaded “T” vertical.  Two opposing guy
> lines would be equal-length wire out far enough to achieve resonance, with
> the other two nonconductive for their entire length.
> >
> > A third would be something closer to a capacity hat.  All four of the
> guy lines would start at the tip as wires, of equal length and just long
> enough to effect resonance, with nonconductive rope from there to each of
> the four trees.  This variation might also have a square loop connecting
> the distal ends of the four top wires.
> >
> > If the goal is to have the highest efficiency and the lowest net
> radiation angle, and if the height of the vertical section is fixed and the
> radial system is the same for each choice, does it matter which of those
> three or four options is chosen?  And if it does, how come?
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Don Wilhelm]

Ted,

The inverted L will have some horizontally polarized radiation.  The 
other top loaded verticals should have only vertically polarized 
radiation - assuming that the top loading is symmetrical, whether that 
be a capacity hat or a T wire.


In general, the vertically polarized radiation will be at a lower angle 
than horizontally polarized, but that all depends on the ground 
conductivity and your radial system.  A radial system of 64 radials is 
good if your ground conductivity is decent, but if you are in an area 
where ground conductivity is poor, you may have better luck with 
horizontal antennas or an inverted Vee - the higher the better.


So the answer is "it all depends".  If you do not have a wonderful 
ground screen, a vertical may perform worse than a horizontal antenna 
because a lot of your RF goes into "heating the worms".


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/27/2017 6:13 PM, Dauer, Edward wrote:

A question that’s admittedly a bit OT – though if I need a pretext, the rig to 
be used is a K3 . . .

I have been reading through the usual texts about vertical antennas for 80 
meters, to replace the half wave dipole I now have and the Vee I had but didn’t 
like.  But I have not yet found the answer to one question I am thinking about: 
 The advantages or disadvantages of an inverted L compared to other variations 
of the top-loaded vertical.

Assume a 40-foot ground-mounted vertical section made with wire running up a 
fiberglass mast.  There could be a remote tuner or balun at the base if it’s 
needed.  The top of the vertical section would be guyed with four lines more or 
less parallel to the earth extending from the top tip of the vertical section 
to four suitably located trees.  That physical configuration offers three kinds 
of options.

One is an inverted L.  One of the four guy lines would be a wire making the L 
and long enough to have the overall antenna resonate, with nonconductive line 
from there to the tree.  The other three guy lines would be nonconductive for 
their entire length.

Another would be the classic top-loaded “T” vertical.  Two opposing guy lines 
would be equal-length wire out far enough to achieve resonance, with the other 
two nonconductive for their entire length.

A third would be something closer to a capacity hat.  All four of the guy lines 
would start at the tip as wires, of equal length and just long enough to effect 
resonance, with nonconductive rope from there to each of the four trees.  This 
variation might also have a square loop connecting the distal ends of the four 
top wires.

If the goal is to have the highest efficiency and the lowest net radiation 
angle, and if the height of the vertical section is fixed and the radial system 
is the same for each choice, does it matter which of those three or four 
options is chosen?  And if it does, how come?


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m Alignment

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

For those who have a DMM with capacitance measuring capabilities, you can 
measure small caps well enough to separate caps (within a couple of pF) by 
setting the meter on the bench and running the leads to where you can apply the 
probes to the capacitor without moving them. Hold the probes near the capacitor 
and note the reading, then touch the terminals of the cap and note the change. 
The change is the capacitance of the unit under test. 

That is a neat little kit, Ted. Tnx for the lead. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dauer, 
Edward
Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 5:19 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K2 12m Alignment

I went through the same business with my first K2, apparently during the 
switch-over of trimmer suppliers.  None of the colors matched what they were 
supposed to be and the errata sheets didn’t help at all.  Don Wilhelm and Gary 
Surrency both went out of their way to help me sort it out.  

Although my DVM is theoretically able to measure capacitance, the long leads 
make it essentially useless.  So when I ordered my second K2, while I was 
waiting for it to arrive I put together a very inexpensive capacitance tester 
that sold for about $10.  It has PCB mounted test points that work with no 
leads at all, and the spacing is perfect for these little trimmers.  I then 
tested what I received in the second K2 kit before mounting them, found that 
there were still questions, and once again Elecraft came almost instantly to my 
aid.  But at least I didn’t have to undo anything, or puzzle about why 
something wasn’t working right.

Sounds as if the K2 trimmer supply is a recurring problem.  Using the 
capacitance tester before mounting them saved me a great deal of trouble.  
Having bought it, I now test EVERY cap before installing.  Takes a while, but 
it’s reassuring.

There are lots of inexpensive testers available on the ‘Net.  I think this is 
the one I bought:  http://www.nkcelectronics.com/capacitance-meter-kit.html.

Ted, KN1CBR


--

Message: 24
Date: Sun, 26 Feb 2017 23:52:06 + (UTC)
From: Chuck Stover 
To: "donw...@embarqmail.com" ,  Robert Kasten
, "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
Message-ID: <1207157025.1459419.1488153126...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

Bob, Don,
I just finished up a K2 as well.? The trimmers I got didn't match the 
description in either the manual or errata, so I wasn't sure what I was looking 
at.
I had to use clip leads from my cap meter and got too much stray stuff 
going on to accurately measure min and max.
I talked to Gary in Watsonville.? Here's what we summized.? The larger 
bodied yellow trimmers went into c21 and c23.? The remaining 4 smaller bodied 
white with red band trimmers went into c32, c34, c44 and c46.
It works.? I get good output on all bands.
Don't know if this helps or not.
Chuck K4QS


  From: Don Wilhelm 
 To: Robert Kasten ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2017 6:10 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 12m alignment
   
Bob,

You have too much capacitance at C32 and C34.

Contact Elecraft support and ask them to send 2 trimmer caps to replace 
C44 and C46.? The ones you have with your kit do not have a small enough 
minimum capacitance.? The p/n you need is E540011 and the bodies were 
red the last time I saw them.

The 35 to 70pF range you measured is higher than I would expect.? They 
should measure about 20pF to 45pF.

If you have a similar problem with the maximum power on 18 MHz as well, 
ask for replacements for C32 and C34.? The part number is E540002 and 
they have yellow bodies.

See the latest Errata page - download it from the Elecraft website.
Trimmer capacitors have become a problem for Elecraft over the past 6 
months or so.? I believe you have brown body trimmers at C32, C34, C44 
and C46.? Several of those were found not to meet the manufacturer's 
specs for capacitance range and were dropped.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2017 5:41 PM, Robert Kasten wrote:
> Finished my K2 in the last few days and really enjoyed the build. It was
> just like old times.
>
> All bands except 12m have aligned OK...but I cannot get any more than .5W
> output on 12m - no matter the C44/46 trimmer cap settings or the power
> setting. And while it not fun, I pulled components C42,C43,C44,C45,C46,C47
> and C48 and they all showed fine on the cap tester. C32 and C34 are
> adjustable from about 35pf to 70pf.
>

[Elecraft] 80 Meter Verticals

[Dauer, Edward]

A question that’s admittedly a bit OT – though if I need a pretext, the rig to 
be used is a K3 . . .

I have been reading through the usual texts about vertical antennas for 80 
meters, to replace the half wave dipole I now have and the Vee I had but didn’t 
like.  But I have not yet found the answer to one question I am thinking about: 
 The advantages or disadvantages of an inverted L compared to other variations 
of the top-loaded vertical.

Assume a 40-foot ground-mounted vertical section made with wire running up a 
fiberglass mast.  There could be a remote tuner or balun at the base if it’s 
needed.  The top of the vertical section would be guyed with four lines more or 
less parallel to the earth extending from the top tip of the vertical section 
to four suitably located trees.  That physical configuration offers three kinds 
of options.

One is an inverted L.  One of the four guy lines would be a wire making the L 
and long enough to have the overall antenna resonate, with nonconductive line 
from there to the tree.  The other three guy lines would be nonconductive for 
their entire length.

Another would be the classic top-loaded “T” vertical.  Two opposing guy lines 
would be equal-length wire out far enough to achieve resonance, with the other 
two nonconductive for their entire length.

A third would be something closer to a capacity hat.  All four of the guy lines 
would start at the tip as wires, of equal length and just long enough to effect 
resonance, with nonconductive rope from there to each of the four trees.  This 
variation might also have a square loop connecting the distal ends of the four 
top wires.

If the goal is to have the highest efficiency and the lowest net radiation 
angle, and if the height of the vertical section is fixed and the radial system 
is the same for each choice, does it matter which of those three or four 
options is chosen?  And if it does, how come?

Thanks in advance for any lessons offered . . .

Ted, KN1CBR

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Re: [Elecraft] Help with Headphones

[Nr4c]

The warnings are for connecting SPEAKERS to the Rear Speaker jack. You SHOULD 
use a TRS plug to lessen the opportunity of the smoke escaping from the speaker 
stereo amplifier. 

There is no such threat to the Phones jack(s). 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Feb 27, 2017, at 3:27 PM, Tom  wrote:
> 
> Let me see if I can explain this.  I have two speakers hooked up to my K3s
> using the appropriate adapter and have them working fine.   I can hear each
> receiver in a different ear and the AFX function works.  I have a set of
> Heil headsets that also work the same as the regular speaker.
> 
> I acquired a wireless headset that plugs directly into the mic input and
> phone output.  The headsets were originally designed for telephone call
> center use so they are monaural only.  I can plug them into either the
> front phone jack or the rear phone jack and I hear the audio just fine.  I
> have the Config:Spkrs set to 2 since I have to regular speakers and a Heil
> headset that I often monitor and enjoy the AFX and the separate receive
> audio.  The wireless headset audio is wired with a stereo plug but no
> connection to the ring.
> 
> The plan would be to plug the wireless headset into the rear of the radio
> and either the heil headset or a hand microphone into the front.
> 
> I read all the warnings about how to connect speakers and headphones.  So
> is there any harm in connecting the wireless headset(remember it is
> monoral) to the phone jack using a stereo plug and keeping Config:Spkrs 2?
> 
> 
> 
> 73,
> Tom - KQ5S
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[brian]

It was said, the only replacement for a DC-3 was another DC-3.
The same can said for the K3.

I played with a local's 7300 trying to get it hooked up to the computer 
et al.  It only has a USB port.  No band data output.  Make sure your 
logging program supports the 7300, if you do computer logging.


It did put out 100 watts OK.  Adjusting power was a pain. If you have an 
amplifier that needs different drive levels on different bands, this is 
a possible issue.


It is small. I hope you have good strong glasses and tiny fingers. If 
you like menus, you'll love the 7300.  You will need an external speaker.


Not impressed with the spectrum display. Too tiny.

The price (used running $1000-1200) is a real plus.

All the above represents a first impression and there may be ways to 
work around the issues encountered.


73 de Brian/K3KO



On 2/27/2017 17:39 PM, Bill wrote:

I have been thinking of purchasing a 7300 as a backup to my K3
(non-updated) and am wondering if anyone has done a real side-by-side
comparison of the two radios??

Of course I could purchase a new K3S and keep the K3 as the backup.
However, for my daily use of ham radio, I am not sure that would be the
best approach for me.

I normally only operate on 40 and 75 meters on nets and rag chew. My
station (speakers, antennas, etc.) is designed for armchair copy
reception. To that end, the K3 does an excellent job.

So, if you have experience using both radios, I would sure like to hear
from you. You may either post here, or contact me directly at
w2blc.nycap.rr.com.

Thanks,

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft_K3] Compare the 7300 to a K3

[Rick WA6NHC]

I use the K3 (entire K line) at home most of the time (the BEST radio 
I've ever used and the integration is beyond compare).  I'm very used to 
the controls having moved from the Kenwood TS-940; they're VERY similar 
and it was a shallow learning curve.  I wanted a portable, RV and FD 
radio and considered another K3 by moving my K3 parts into a K3S.  I 
didn't want a huge budget since that radio wouldn't be used enough to 
justify a large expense.


I went with the IC-7300 (now less expensive).  It's small, has many of 
the features I use on the K3 (bandscope being the main one) and with the 
AH-4 tuner means I can be on the air with almost any wire, quickly.  
That combination was less than a K3 and added the 'scope.  It's also 
light (a huge consideration for RV life). It also caused me to learn 
about battery technology so I now power it with LiFePo4 batteries 
instead of using the RV house battery (which also means I don't have to 
hunker indoors).


In use, it's sensitive, easy to use but it's 'different' from the K3 (I 
likely need to spend more hours on the Icom but haven't; it's not 
intuitive to me).   The Icom has some of the controls (like keyer speed) 
hidden in touch menus instead of on the front panel (where they belong, 
like the Elecraft folks figured out). It's a different mindset since I'm 
not a long time Icom user.  The touch screen is nice; the scope works 
fine once set, but you also can't save the settings per band or mode; 
it's rather limited compared to the P3 (touch and QSY is nice, but never 
ON the exact freq you want).  If you have fat fingers, you'll be 
frustrated with the touch screen.


The '7300 lacks a couple (what I would consider basic) connections.  
There is only ONE antenna port (anyone have a 160-6M antenna?), there is 
no video output of the scope (so I don't have to squint), in fact there 
aren't any real options beyond microphone and mounting bracket.  I've 
had to learn about Icom interfacing so I could run FSK (AFSK was easy 
via USB).  The '7300 is designed to be an entry level BASIC radio.  And 
that is exactly what I wanted for the RV and holiday style operations.  
The AH-4 allows me to use a grossly non-resonant wire as an antenna; 
much like the Elecraft KX radios (which I didn't choose because I'd have 
to buy an amp too and this was a budget purchase, the AH-4 had a sizable 
rebate).


On FD  the '7300 was grossly overloaded  by others on the air at the 
site.  If I was on 15M and the 20M or 40M station transmitted, the 7300 
front end crumpled with MAJOR desense, ditto when I was on 80M.  My 
inverted Vee (resonant, fed with a twisted pair to the AH-4) was 30' 
from the 20M beam and 120' from the 40M double EDZ (yes I said that 
correctly, it's HUGE, Quad Extended Zepp).  For FD, either a LOT more 
separation or use of another radio is suggested.  I was not able to 
adjust the '7300 enough to ignore the other 100 watt stations without 
making the '7300 deaf.  This was a *planned* worst case scenario (no 
band traps, we've never needed them) specifically for the '7300 and 
similar to previous years of using a 7600, which survived the test.  
This year I will separate my station from the others by a couple hundred 
feet and I expect no issues, except fewer trees and a longer walk to supper.


For use without nearby transmitters, it's been great.  I've used it here 
in the shack to get used to it (Icom is NOT Kenwood or Elecraft, it's 
'different').  For the average home environment, the RV or at 'the 
cabin', it's great.  No issues, sensitive and is all you would expect 
from a current model radio and some nice features (do NOT get the Icom 
software, for $100 it's horrid).


Icom has a history of great radios, crappy microphones for mediocre 
audio.  The stock mic works fine, other Icom mikes I tried, not so 
well.  I use the stock mic and a Heil headset and that works as well.  
If you go Icom, expect you'll have to fuss with mics to get the right 
one (sometimes even the stock mic). Kenwood is famous for their audio 
(Elecraft too, but you opted out of them).


In my research for the '7300 purchase, I found that the output spiking 
issue of the TS-590 line has AT LAST been tamed, BUT each radio must be 
returned for a 'factory' mod.  So if you buy used and EVER plan on using 
an amp, that is something to check.  (That spike was a HUGE reason to 
not get the '590 series when I chose Elecraft, I knew I'd add an amp).


On the other hand, my mobile HF is a Kenwood TS-480HX.  It's not deaf 
but it's also not expected to pick up flea farts in a tornado on the 
road, it's a good solid basic radio with a little more output to 
compensate for the typical lousy mobile antenna (a Tarheel in my case, 
good antenna but mobile is tough).  If I'm not driving and operating, it 
feels like it's on a par with the TS-940 but that empirical not lab 
testing.  Advantage: You can put the control head next to your easy 
chair and hide the radio etc some distance away.

Re: [Elecraft] Question re KX2 and KXPA100

[Ryan Noguchi via Elecraft]

>The kx3 and pa100 work fine.



>However, when I use the kx2 it isnt fine.  I set AUX2 to ON, PA to ON and all 
>is well UNTIL I go over 10 watts.


When you mention AUX2, it suggests to me that you're trying to key the amp by 
directly connecting the KXPA100 PA KEY port to the KX2's AUX jack, which is not 
the same as the KX3's ACC2 jack. 

Could you clarify how your KX2 is connected to the KXPA100? Are you using the 
recommended method of connection, i.e., the KX2ACBL and KXPACBL adapters? My 
intuition is that the KX2ACBL is the most likely culprit; either it isn't fully 
seated, or it isn't there. 


73, Ryan AI6DO 
   
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Charlie T, K3ICH]

Well, my operation is similar to yours in that I don't do contests and work
DX only if I happen to stumble onto it.

That said, I think the IC-7300 would be more "fun".
I own both and while the K3S will probably out-perform the Icom, the '7300
has more bells and whistles.
I'm not the one to ask for actual performance comparison but I AM a bell &
whistles type and appreciate the fun stuff the Icom will provide.

For starters, a color display spectrum AND waterfall which is miles ahead of
ANY built-in scope display I've ever seen with the possible exception of the
one in the IC-7851.
My opinion is that it is as good as the P3 although not quite as versatile.
However, I rarely look at the P3 itself since I drive an old 15" computer
monitor for that.

73, Charlie k3ICH





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[Elecraft] Help with Headphones

[Tom]

Let me see if I can explain this.  I have two speakers hooked up to my K3s
using the appropriate adapter and have them working fine.   I can hear each
receiver in a different ear and the AFX function works.  I have a set of
Heil headsets that also work the same as the regular speaker.

I acquired a wireless headset that plugs directly into the mic input and
phone output.  The headsets were originally designed for telephone call
center use so they are monaural only.  I can plug them into either the
front phone jack or the rear phone jack and I hear the audio just fine.  I
have the Config:Spkrs set to 2 since I have to regular speakers and a Heil
headset that I often monitor and enjoy the AFX and the separate receive
audio.  The wireless headset audio is wired with a stereo plug but no
connection to the ring.

The plan would be to plug the wireless headset into the rear of the radio
and either the heil headset or a hand microphone into the front.

I read all the warnings about how to connect speakers and headphones.  So
is there any harm in connecting the wireless headset(remember it is
monoral) to the phone jack using a stereo plug and keeping Config:Spkrs 2?



73,
Tom - KQ5S
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[Elecraft] Question re KX2 and KXPA100

[James Rodenkirch]

I had that problem manifest itself on my KX3/KXPA100 system.

Double check that both ends of the KX3 to KXPA100 adapter cable (that little 
black box that is connected to the PA100 via the RJ45 connector) are completely 
mated/pushed in where they are inserted in the ACC1 and ACC2 jacks on the KX3...
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[Elecraft] K-3 and IC-7300

[James D. (Jimmy) Walker, Jr. via Elecraft]

I own the K-3 and have recently purchased the IC-7300. If you use the P-3 
Panadapter, with your K-3 then you will not be happy with another rig that 
doesn't have a band-scope. I like the IC-7300 very much.  

Jimmy


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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Phil Hystad]

I spent some time with the Icom ic-7300 last fall at the HRO in Portland Oregon 
(actually, Tigard).  I was impressed with the layout, features available on 
front panel, touch screen and overall size.  It was smaller than I thought it 
would be (from a former Pro III owner) and even though a touch screen is no 
where near the top of any wish list of mine, it seemed to work well and offer 
the most obvious features via touch.

For awhile there I was thinking why not — why not add this cute little SDR to 
my collection.  Then I realized that it would mostly collect dust or some other 
radio would collect more dust and besides, I would probably rather spend the 
money on some more woodworking equipment.

But, if you need a good backup radio, this one is priced right and probably 
would not be a mistake.

73, phil, K7PEH


> On Feb 27, 2017, at 11:23 AM, Phil Wheeler  wrote:
> 
> I find it here http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer#I
> 
> Phil W7OX
> 
> On 2/27/17 10:37 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>> On Mon,2/27/2017 10:04 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
>>> ARRL reviews most new rigs, but I don't see one for the 7300.
>>> 
>>> http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer
>> 
>> 
>> Apparently the list is out of date -- KK7P emailed me that the 7300 was 
>> reviewed in August 2016 QST.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Question re KX2 and KXPA100

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

I don't know the KX2 well enough to give you even a guess, although it 
is obvious that something is putting the KXPA100 into transmit.  Do you 
have the ACC plug fully inserted - give it that extra bit of push.


But something is apparently wrong, and I suggest you contact K3support 
at Elecraft.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/27/2017 1:38 PM, david perry wrote:

Hi Folks
Quick question for you.

I have a KX3 (three) and a KX2 (two) and a KXPA100.

The kx3 and pa100 work fine.

However, when I use the kx2 it isnt fine.  I set AUX2 to ON, PA to ON and
all is well UNTIL I go over 10 watts.  When I go above ten watts on the
dial setting on the kx2 the TX light on the PA comes on and of course my Rx
goes deaf.  Wind it back to below 10 watts or below and the relay in the PA
clicks and the Rx works again.


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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Phil Wheeler]

I find it here 
http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer#I


Phil W7OX

On 2/27/17 10:37 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On Mon,2/27/2017 10:04 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
ARRL reviews most new rigs, but I don't see one 
for the 7300.


http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer



Apparently the list is out of date -- KK7P 
emailed me that the 7300 was reviewed in August 
2016 QST.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Battery Alternative?

[Eric J]

I ran my K2/10 and K1 from my RC batteries for years. Mine were only 2000mAH. 
When they started sagging for RC, I used them for the radios where peak current 
draw was dramatically lower. I ran the rigs at 5 watts as Don mentioned. The 
signal was clean and at that power level they would barely tax the batteries 
over an entire weekend in the field.

Eric

KE6US

On 2/27/2017 2:09 AM, F5vjc wrote:

I have some 3 cell LiPo batteries normally used for RC aero models and I'd
like to try these externally with my K2. The batteries are 3.7V per cell
500mAH which will give 11.21 V fully charged.
I do of course have a suitable charger for LiPo batteries.

How will the K2 perform at this reduced voltage? Opinions please.

73, Denis F5VJC
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.



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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[John Dolan]

I have had both the IC-7300 and the K3S here in the shack as well as the
TS-590SG.  The IC-7300 has it's little nice features but I didnt find it
better than the TS-590SG for rag chewing and general use. I have an IC-7600
and I found that the IC-7300 didnt really have as good sounding a
receiver.  For my $$$ I would purchase the Kenwood TS-590SG for a backup to
my K3S if I didnt already have an IC-7600.

Just my opinion, YMMV.

73, John WB4YAL


*Many of life's problems can be solved by simply deciding what we can do
without. -John Dolan *

On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 12:39 PM, Bill  wrote:

> I have been thinking of purchasing a 7300 as a backup to my K3
> (non-updated) and am wondering if anyone has done a real side-by-side
> comparison of the two radios??
>
> Of course I could purchase a new K3S and keep the K3 as the backup.
> However, for my daily use of ham radio, I am not sure that would be the
> best approach for me.
>
> I normally only operate on 40 and 75 meters on nets and rag chew. My
> station (speakers, antennas, etc.) is designed for armchair copy reception.
> To that end, the K3 does an excellent job.
>
> So, if you have experience using both radios, I would sure like to hear
> from you. You may either post here, or contact me directly at
> w2blc.nycap.rr.com.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] K-Pod: A failure to Communicate

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

Have you tried programming the identical function into both the TAP and
HOLD macros for each button?  It's very easy to hold down a K-POD button a
bit too long, which runs a different macro.  If nothing is programmed for
the HOLD function, you'll see "MACRO 1" or similar blink in the VFO B
display.

If that's not it, what are the command strings programmed into M1-M4?  Do
they contain any leading or trailing blanks?

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 10:19 AM, Wes Stewart  wrote:

> With a nod to Cool Hand Luke
>
> I have mentioned this before in another thread but have heard no response.
>
> I, and I know others, have experienced the annoyance of tapping a key on
> the K-Pod and after noticeable latency, seeing a message appear in the VFO
> B space that acknowledges the tap, yet the requested action fails to
> occur.   Specifically in my case, I'm trying to send CW messages stored in
> M1-M4.
>
> This use was the main reason I asked for one of these for a Christmas
> gift, so I could use my left hand and save both the buttons on the radio
> and/or my rotator cuff on my sending hand.
>
> Can we get a fix for this?
>
> Wes  N7WS
>
> ps. Another function button is supposed to turn VOX on and off. This fails
> too often as well.
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

Keep in mind that the Sherwood rankings are based on 3rd Order Dynamic Range at 
2 Khz spacing — not on any other factor, and not on some general measure of a 
radio’s “goodness”.   While it isn’t necessarily unimportant even for casual 
rag chewing, it may not be the most important consideration.


> 
> 
> The current Sherwood Engineering receiver test data list includes all of 
> these radios.
> 
> In the latest figures, the K3 (old synthesizer) rates above both the 7300 and 
> TS590G.  The 7300 is down 5 in the list from the K2 and the 7300 is two above 
> the TS590G.
> 
> If you just installed the upgraded synthesizer you would improve your K3 by 
> five spots.  


Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342



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[Elecraft] Question re KX2 and KXPA100

[david perry]

Hi Folks
Quick question for you.

I have a KX3 (three) and a KX2 (two) and a KXPA100.

The kx3 and pa100 work fine.

However, when I use the kx2 it isnt fine.  I set AUX2 to ON, PA to ON and
all is well UNTIL I go over 10 watts.  When I go above ten watts on the
dial setting on the kx2 the TX light on the PA comes on and of course my Rx
goes deaf.  Wind it back to below 10 watts or below and the relay in the PA
clicks and the Rx works again.

Ive got latest firmware in KX2 and PA100.


What am I missing?

David G4YVM
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,2/27/2017 10:04 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

ARRL reviews most new rigs, but I don't see one for the 7300.

http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer



Apparently the list is out of date -- KK7P emailed me that the 7300 was 
reviewed in August 2016 QST.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] K-Pod: A failure to Communicate

[Wes Stewart]

With a nod to Cool Hand Luke

I have mentioned this before in another thread but have heard no response.

I, and I know others, have experienced the annoyance of tapping a key on the 
K-Pod and after noticeable latency, seeing a message appear in the VFO B space 
that acknowledges the tap, yet the requested action fails to occur.   
Specifically in my case, I'm trying to send CW messages stored in M1-M4.


This use was the main reason I asked for one of these for a Christmas gift, so I 
could use my left hand and save both the buttons on the radio and/or my rotator 
cuff on my sending hand.


Can we get a fix for this?

Wes  N7WS

ps. Another function button is supposed to turn VOX on and off. This fails too 
often as well.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Suggested External Battery

[Kevin - K4VD]

​I'm going to second the Bioenno solution. I use the BLF-1215W and it kept
my KX3 running through Field Day last year along with some other shorter
term field events. I often run the KX3 at 3 watts when portable with
intermittent forays into 5+ watts when deemed necessary.

I have not had any issues with RFI from their charger but, and I believe
this is common, what is quiet for some is noisy for others. Maybe the RFI
issues Jim reported has already been addressed? One thing I've been warned
about... LiFePO4 batteries have special charging requirements. Not any ole
charger will do.

73,
Kev K4VD
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[George Thornton]

The current Sherwood Engineering receiver test data list includes all of these 
radios.

In the latest figures, the K3 (old synthesizer) rates above both the 7300 and 
TS590G.  The 7300 is down 5 in the list from the K2 and the 7300 is two above 
the TS590G.

If you just installed the upgraded synthesizer you would improve your K3 by 
five spots.  In fact, only the full K3S and Flexradio 6700 are currently better.

However, for casual rag chewing I would think any of these transceivers would 
be just fine.   It would be a matter of personal preference.  I know several 
people who are very happy with the TS590G.

These are all quality rigs.




From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Jim Brown
Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 10:04 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

On Mon,2/27/2017 9:39 AM, Bill wrote:
> I have been thinking of purchasing a 7300 as a backup to my K3
> (non-updated) and am wondering if anyone has done a real side-by-side
> comparison of the two radios??

ARRL reviews most new rigs, but I don't see one for the 7300.

http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer

For the way you operate, If I were looking for a lower cost backup for a
K3, I'd look at something like the TS590SG. A friend who's a great
operator owns one and likes it, and ARRL lab test data for it is quite
good considering its price.

73, Jim K9YC

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gthorn...@thorntonmostullaw.com


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Suggested External Battery

[Jim Brown]

On Sun,2/26/2017 3:43 PM, Jeff Herr wrote:

i see people confusing Lipo with LifePo4

two different chemistries.


Right.


would you not agree that one benefit of Lipo 14.6 batteries is their voltage 
being above the 13.8 spec?


Yes, but LiFePO4 are a better choice for most ham applications. They are 
a safer battery, and the discharge curve of a nominal 14.2V pack stays 
above 13V for most of its capacity, as compared to lead-acid chemistry, 
which stays below 12V for most of their capacity.   Here are two good US 
vendors. The second one, Battery Space, also sells a broad range of Li 
Ion batteries. Both vendors have good people to talk to on the phone and 
via email. Bioenno has been exhibiting at hamfests, and their products 
are sold by Ham Radio Outlet. I've made them aware of the RFI issues 
associated with their chargers, and they are working on finding suitable 
replacements.


https://www.bioennopower.com/collections/12v-series-lifepo4-batteries

http://www.batteryspace.com/12-8v-lifepo4-battery-packs-from-3.3ah-to-6ah.aspx

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Ron Wilcox]

Bill,
If you are interested I have a Kenwood 590 S with a digimaster for sale as
I have recently purchased K3S and KX2 and do not have a need for more
radios. I do not want to do sales on the forum, so if interested contact me
directly. Have had great results with 590S and 590SG, but there are other
good rigs out there these days as well

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73   Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Mon, Feb 27, 2017 at 11:04 AM, Jim Brown 
wrote:

> On Mon,2/27/2017 9:39 AM, Bill wrote:
>
>> I have been thinking of purchasing a 7300 as a backup to my K3
>> (non-updated) and am wondering if anyone has done a real side-by-side
>> comparison of the two radios??
>>
>
> ARRL reviews most new rigs, but I don't see one for the 7300.
>
> http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer
>
> For the way you operate, If I were looking for a lower cost backup for a
> K3, I'd look at something like the TS590SG. A friend who's a great operator
> owns one and likes it, and ARRL lab test data for it is quite good
> considering its price.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Jim Brown]

On Mon,2/27/2017 9:39 AM, Bill wrote:
I have been thinking of purchasing a 7300 as a backup to my K3 
(non-updated) and am wondering if anyone has done a real side-by-side 
comparison of the two radios??


ARRL reviews most new rigs, but I don't see one for the 7300.

http://www.arrl.org/reviews-listed-by-manufacturer

For the way you operate, If I were looking for a lower cost backup for a 
K3, I'd look at something like the TS590SG. A friend who's a great 
operator owns one and likes it, and ARRL lab test data for it is quite 
good considering its price.


73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] Compare the K3 and the Icom IC-7300

[Bill]

I have been thinking of purchasing a 7300 as a backup to my K3 
(non-updated) and am wondering if anyone has done a real side-by-side 
comparison of the two radios??


Of course I could purchase a new K3S and keep the K3 as the backup. 
However, for my daily use of ham radio, I am not sure that would be the 
best approach for me.


I normally only operate on 40 and 75 meters on nets and rag chew. My 
station (speakers, antennas, etc.) is designed for armchair copy 
reception. To that end, the K3 does an excellent job.


So, if you have experience using both radios, I would sure like to hear 
from you. You may either post here, or contact me directly at 
w2blc.nycap.rr.com.


Thanks,

Bill W2BLC K-Line
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Remoterig K3/0 MIC connection

[LA7NO]

What about the mic connector on the side of the K3/0-mini?
Is this in parallel to the main connector? Or how is it selected?

Is there a schematic or detailed block diagram available somewhere?

73,

Per-Tore
LA7NO




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[Elecraft] K3 + Remoterig + K3/0-mini findings

[LA7NO]

Hello group,

I have noticed that the settings of AF and RF gain is taken from the actual
settings of the K3 that is being connected to.
If the K3/0-mini has different settings, these come into effect by just a
very slight twist of these controls.
I would expect that the K3/0-mini settings should be used, since it is here
the operator is.

Can it be that this also goes for other settings?

Hmmm...

73,

Per-Tore
LA7NO




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Battery Alternative?

[Don Wilhelm]

Deni,

It should work fine, especially if you keep the power to 5 watts or 
under.  Set the CAL CUR parameter at 3.50 Amps to avoid HI CUR warnings.


If you try to run at 10 watts, the IMD will be reduced and the current 
draw will be excessive.


Remember that the K2 tries to produce the power requested by the POWER 
knob, and in order to maintain that power at reduced voltage, the 
current must increase.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/27/2017 5:09 AM, F5vjc wrote:

I have some 3 cell LiPo batteries normally used for RC aero models and I'd
like to try these externally with my K2. The batteries are 3.7V per cell
500mAH which will give 11.21 V fully charged.
I do of course have a suitable charger for LiPo batteries.

How will the K2 perform at this reduced voltage? Opinions please.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Battery Alternative?

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

The Manual says it will run on 9-15 v
So I would say try it and see.




  From: F5vjc 
 To: Elecraft Reflector  
 Sent: Monday, February 27, 2017 5:09 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K2 Battery Alternative?
   
I have some 3 cell LiPo batteries normally used for RC aero models and I'd
like to try these externally with my K2. The batteries are 3.7V per cell
500mAH which will give 11.21 V fully charged.
I do of course have a suitable charger for LiPo batteries.

How will the K2 perform at this reduced voltage? Opinions please.

73, Denis F5VJC
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Battery Alternative?

[F5vjc]

Correction the battery capacity is 5000mAH or 5AH of course.

73, F5VJC

On 27 February 2017 at 11:09, F5vjc  wrote:

> I have some 3 cell LiPo batteries normally used for RC aero models and I'd
> like to try these externally with my K2. The batteries are 3.7V per cell
> 500mAH which will give 11.21 V fully charged.
> I do of course have a suitable charger for LiPo batteries.
>
> How will the K2 perform at this reduced voltage? Opinions please.
>
> 73, Denis F5VJC
>
>
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[Elecraft] K2 Battery Alternative?

[F5vjc]

I have some 3 cell LiPo batteries normally used for RC aero models and I'd
like to try these externally with my K2. The batteries are 3.7V per cell
500mAH which will give 11.21 V fully charged.
I do of course have a suitable charger for LiPo batteries.

How will the K2 perform at this reduced voltage? Opinions please.

73, Denis F5VJC
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