Re: [Elecraft] K3 with the AS-419 bandpass filter system

[Vic DiCiccio VE3YT]

Noel, the 419 has two "input modes" for selecting bands using the connector
on the rear:

PBM = Per Band Mode, where 12V is put on an appropriate pin for the band you
wish to select, that is, one of 6 pins.
BDM= Band Data Mode, where Band0 to Band3 data is applied to the connector,
and the 419 does the decoding. 

The pin outs for the connector for either mode are etched on the back of the
419.

To enter BDM, hold the mode button and push and release the 10m button.  If
you look under the 10m button, you'll see a label "BDM".

To enter PBM, hold the mode button and push and release the 15m button.  If
you look under the 15m button, you'll see a label "PBM".

73, Vic VE3YT



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,3/9/2017 9:29 PM, George Thornton wrote:

 From what I am learning the K3 needs a strong, stable power supply to be 
reliable.


ANY ham rig needs that. :)  At 100W, the K3 draws about 20A keydown. Do 
Ohm's Law on the wiring between the power supply and the K3. The simple 
answer is short, fat copper, straight from the supply to the radio. AND 
good quality connectors. Those power distribution strips can easily drop 
a volt or so. I run #10-2 to my radios.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Nr4c]

Minimize all cable lengths. No more than necessary.

Verify (actually look at) that SLL APP connectors are FULLY SEATED!  Meaning 
inspect the open end for seeing only one price of metal. Check the Anderson web 
site for a cut away picture of the cross-section of a properly assembled APP. 

I use #10 wire for my K3 cables. 

Use PowerGate to charge battery and  run accessories. Run radio from separate 
cable to PS. 

When power goes out reconnect radio to battery. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Mar 10, 2017, at 12:00 AM, James Bennett  wrote:
> 
> I put my DMM leads on the front terminals of the 4545 and with key down, no 
> change at all: 13.9V, so it appears that MFJ gets a pass on this one.
> 
> To do my testing I had run the 4545 directly to the K3 and not through the 
> Rig Runner. However, to do that I had simply hooked the cable from the 4245 
> that used to go to the Rig Runner into the end of the cable going to the K3, 
> basically taking the Rig Runner, Power Gate, and Boost Regulator out of the 
> picture. This gave me two cables, total of about 10 feet, with three APP 
> connectors.
> 
> Thus the connection went from the 4245 through a five foot cable and some 
> ferrite donuts into another five foot cable to the back of the K3. The 
> voltage dropped to 12.5 on the K3 meter. With some work, I pulled the cable 
> out of the K3 and connected the 4245 cable with the ferrites directly into 
> the K3. With this combination (only ONE cable and Power Poles at the K3 end) 
> the voltage dropped from 13.9 to 13.1. This means that a second five foot 
> length of cable and two APP’s caused a loss of .6 volts.
> 
> So, what does all this mean? Since I am not using wimpy, skinny wire I have 
> to conclude that perhaps the APP’s might be the cause of some of this voltage 
> drop. With the original configuration I had using the AGM battery, Power 
> Gate, Boost Regulator, and Rig Runner, there are a bunch of APP’s in the 
> circuit, in addition to several feet of wire. I “could” simply connect the 
> 4245 directly to the K3 and settle for a drop of .8 volts (13.9 to 13.1), but 
> that kinda defeats the purpose of having a solar / battery backup system and 
> a power distribution system. I thought this issue would be solved by 
> replacing the MFJ PS with something else, but it is looking a LOT more 
> complex at this point. Crap - what is one supposed to do? 
> 
> Jim / W6JHB
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Mar 9, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Jim,
>> 
>> Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
>> If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame 
>> the power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem 
>> is voltage drop in the power cabling.
>> 
>> The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
>> even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Bill Frantz]

I connect my voltage boost, like yours a N8XJK, between the 
power supply mess and the K3. (I run it in RF Enabled mode.) 
That results in my K3 getting the voltage it needs, and the 
voltage loss in all the other connections getting made up.


73 Bill AE6JV

On 3/9/17 at 9:00 PM, w6...@me.com (James Bennett) wrote:


Crap - what is one supposed to do?

---
Bill Frantz|Security, like correctness, is| Periwinkle
(408)356-8506  |not an add-on feature. - Attr-| 16345 
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com |ibuted to Andrew Tanenbaum| Los Gatos, 
CA 95032


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[George Thornton]

I am using an Astron 35 amp ps.

I did not use a dmm, just the meter on the k3.  I only got a .2 drop when I 
connected direct with a five foot thick gauge wire.  But using the same pwrgate 
setup as yours it dropped a full volt or more on transmit.

A friend had problems running in a mobile setting with battery backup he went 
to a voltage boost regulator and it all works.

From what I am learning the K3 needs a strong, stable power supply to be 
reliable.





From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of James 
Bennett
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 9:01 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

I put my DMM leads on the front terminals of the 4545 and with key down, no 
change at all: 13.9V, so it appears that MFJ gets a pass on this one.

To do my testing I had run the 4545 directly to the K3 and not through the Rig 
Runner. However, to do that I had simply hooked the cable from the 4245 that 
used to go to the Rig Runner into the end of the cable going to the K3, 
basically taking the Rig Runner, Power Gate, and Boost Regulator out of the 
picture. This gave me two cables, total of about 10 feet, with three APP 
connectors.

Thus the connection went from the 4245 through a five foot cable and some 
ferrite donuts into another five foot cable to the back of the K3. The voltage 
dropped to 12.5 on the K3 meter. With some work, I pulled the cable out of the 
K3 and connected the 4245 cable with the ferrites directly into the K3. With 
this combination (only ONE cable and Power Poles at the K3 end) the voltage 
dropped from 13.9 to 13.1. This means that a second five foot length of cable 
and two APP’s caused a loss of .6 volts.

So, what does all this mean? Since I am not using wimpy, skinny wire I have to 
conclude that perhaps the APP’s might be the cause of some of this voltage 
drop. With the original configuration I had using the AGM battery, Power Gate, 
Boost Regulator, and Rig Runner, there are a bunch of APP’s in the circuit, in 
addition to several feet of wire. I “could” simply connect the 4245 directly to 
the K3 and settle for a drop of .8 volts (13.9 to 13.1), but that kinda defeats 
the purpose of having a solar / battery backup system and a power distribution 
system. I thought this issue would be solved by replacing the MFJ PS with 
something else, but it is looking a LOT more complex at this point. Crap - what 
is one supposed to do?

Jim / W6JHB






> On Mar 9, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm 
>  wrote:
>
> Jim,
>
> Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
> If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame the 
> power supply. But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem is 
> voltage drop in the power cabling.
>
> The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
> even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.
>
> If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power supply 
> to the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner. Run the accessories 
> in the shack from the rigrunner.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:
>> Hi All -
>>
>> Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
>> happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
>> frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
>> voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
>> 13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 
>> 12.4v. Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was 
>> not doing it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - 
>> the MFJ 4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to 
>> the K3. Key up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this 
>> poor regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[James Bennett]

I put my DMM leads on the front terminals of the 4545 and with key down, no 
change at all: 13.9V, so it appears that MFJ gets a pass on this one.

To do my testing I had run the 4545 directly to the K3 and not through the Rig 
Runner. However, to do that I had simply hooked the cable from the 4245 that 
used to go to the Rig Runner into the end of the cable going to the K3, 
basically taking the Rig Runner, Power Gate, and Boost Regulator out of the 
picture. This gave me two cables, total of about 10 feet, with three APP 
connectors.

Thus the connection went from the 4245 through a five foot cable and some 
ferrite donuts into another five foot cable to the back of the K3. The voltage 
dropped to 12.5 on the K3 meter. With some work, I pulled the cable out of the 
K3 and connected the 4245 cable with the ferrites directly into the K3. With 
this combination (only ONE cable and Power Poles at the K3 end) the voltage 
dropped from 13.9 to 13.1. This means that a second five foot length of cable 
and two APP’s caused a loss of .6 volts.

So, what does all this mean? Since I am not using wimpy, skinny wire I have to 
conclude that perhaps the APP’s might be the cause of some of this voltage 
drop. With the original configuration I had using the AGM battery, Power Gate, 
Boost Regulator, and Rig Runner, there are a bunch of APP’s in the circuit, in 
addition to several feet of wire. I “could” simply connect the 4245 directly to 
the K3 and settle for a drop of .8 volts (13.9 to 13.1), but that kinda defeats 
the purpose of having a solar / battery backup system and a power distribution 
system. I thought this issue would be solved by replacing the MFJ PS with 
something else, but it is looking a LOT more complex at this point. Crap - what 
is one supposed to do? 

Jim / W6JHB






> On Mar 9, 2017, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Jim,
> 
> Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
> If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame the 
> power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem is 
> voltage drop in the power cabling.
> 
> The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
> even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.
> 
> If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power supply 
> to the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner.  Run the accessories 
> in the shack from the rigrunner.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:
>> Hi All -
>> 
>> Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
>> happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
>> frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
>> voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
>> 13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 
>> 12.4v. Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was 
>> not doing it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - 
>> the MFJ 4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to 
>> the K3. Key up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this 
>> poor regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.
>> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

Correction to Item 2.  I meant to write "A floating *PIN 7* (TX INH) can
cause TX to be intermittently inhibited..."

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 6:50 PM, Bob Wilson, N6TV  wrote:

> No TX power is a common problem, especially on DXpeditions.  Other than
> power supply issues, it is usually one of three things:
>
>1. Intending to use the BAND button, one holds down the right MODE
>button by mistake, putting the K3 into TX TEST mode.  The "TX" icon
>flashes.  But, since you reported that the TUNE button flashes "0 watts"
>instead of flashing "TX TEST", it's probably something else in this case.
>2. CONFIG:TX INH is set to LO=Inh (visible only when CONFIG:TECH MD is
>ON). CONFIG:TX INH should be OFF unless you're using a lockout circuit that
>depends on the inhibit line.  A "floating" pin 10 on the ACC port can cause
>TX to be intermittently inhibited when CONFIG:TX INH is set to LO=INh.
>When TX is inhibited, the K3 will display "0 Watts" when you press the TUNE
>button.  The "TX" indicator also flashes when the rig is inhibited, similar
>to TX TEST mode.
>3. The most likely cause, which I've seen many times, is that the
>jumper board connecting the subreceiver to the main board in the back left
>side of the K3 has partially pulled out.  This happens almost every time a
>K3 is subject to any kind of strong mechanical stress, such as transport in
>checked luggage.  Make sure the SubRx is firmly seated and the problem
>should disappear.  If you don't have a SubRx, there's still a jumper board
>that must be in place in the same spot.
>
> 73,
> Bob, N6TV
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 6:38 AM, Dennis  wrote:
>
>> First thing I did- and the first thing I do whenever I have any funny
>> happen- is to cycle power.  I did so
>> several times.  It still wouldn't transmit.
>>
>> UE
>>
>> On 3/9/2017 9:00 AM, Ed Muns wrote:
>>
>>> When it was not transmitting and you were troubleshooting, did you cycle
>>> power?
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Ed W0YK
>>>
>>> On Mar 9, 2017 5:54 AM, Dennis  wrote:
>>>
 In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not
 shut off, it
 would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the
 meter was in
 that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in
 the display
 saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was
 unsuccessful in restoring
 any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept
 going.

 I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load,
 and it
 transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since,
 and there
 have been no problems.

 First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit
 state?
 I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem
 happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
 intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?

 Dennis W1UE

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Bob Wilson, N6TV]

No TX power is a common problem, especially on DXpeditions.  Other than
power supply issues, it is usually one of three things:

   1. Intending to use the BAND button, one holds down the right MODE
   button by mistake, putting the K3 into TX TEST mode.  The "TX" icon
   flashes.  But, since you reported that the TUNE button flashes "0 watts"
   instead of flashing "TX TEST", it's probably something else in this case.
   2. CONFIG:TX INH is set to LO=Inh (visible only when CONFIG:TECH MD is
   ON). CONFIG:TX INH should be OFF unless you're using a lockout circuit that
   depends on the inhibit line.  A "floating" pin 10 on the ACC port can cause
   TX to be intermittently inhibited when CONFIG:TX INH is set to LO=INh.
   When TX is inhibited, the K3 will display "0 Watts" when you press the TUNE
   button.  The "TX" indicator also flashes when the rig is inhibited, similar
   to TX TEST mode.
   3. The most likely cause, which I've seen many times, is that the jumper
   board connecting the subreceiver to the main board in the back left side of
   the K3 has partially pulled out.  This happens almost every time a K3 is
   subject to any kind of strong mechanical stress, such as transport in
   checked luggage.  Make sure the SubRx is firmly seated and the problem
   should disappear.  If you don't have a SubRx, there's still a jumper board
   that must be in place in the same spot.

73,
Bob, N6TV

On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 6:38 AM, Dennis  wrote:

> First thing I did- and the first thing I do whenever I have any funny
> happen- is to cycle power.  I did so
> several times.  It still wouldn't transmit.
>
> UE
>
> On 3/9/2017 9:00 AM, Ed Muns wrote:
>
>> When it was not transmitting and you were troubleshooting, did you cycle
>> power?
>>
>> 73,
>> Ed W0YK
>>
>> On Mar 9, 2017 5:54 AM, Dennis  wrote:
>>
>>> In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not
>>> shut off, it
>>> would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the
>>> meter was in
>>> that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in
>>> the display
>>> saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was
>>> unsuccessful in restoring
>>> any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going.
>>>
>>> I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load,
>>> and it
>>> transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since,
>>> and there
>>> have been no problems.
>>>
>>> First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit
>>> state?
>>> I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem
>>> happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
>>> intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?
>>>
>>> Dennis W1UE
>>>
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>>>
>>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Bill Johnson]

Don, Excellent advice!  While I have a little bit of voltage drop, will run a 
parallel set of leads directly to my battery charged by my PowerGate PG40 s 
directly rather than through the rigrunner.  Connection resistance was removed  
 years ago but your suggestion cuts out two connectors.  I like that a lot.  
Why didn't I think of that 

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


 Original Message-
From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don 
Wilhelm
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 7:24 PM
To: James Bennett ; Elecraft Reflector Reflector 

Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

Jim,

Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply terminals.
If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can blame the 
power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the problem is 
voltage drop in the power cabling.

The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points and 
even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.

If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power supply to 
the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner.  Run the accessories in 
the shack from the rigrunner.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:
> Hi All -
>
> Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
> happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
> frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
> voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
> 13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 
> 12.4v. Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was 
> not doing it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - 
> the MFJ 4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to 
> the K3. Key up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this 
> poor regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Harry Yingst via Elecraft]

I run an Astron 50 amp linear supply and a 4' cord between it and the K2
I see .6 of a volt drop on keydown at 100 watts






  From: James Bennett 
 To: Elecraft Reflector Reflector  
 Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 8:09 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question
   
Hi All -

I’ve been powering my station for anywhere from 7 - 9 years (can’t recall 
exactly how long!) with an MFJ4245MV switching power supply. I use it in 
conjunction with a 72 watt GE solar panel, 110 Ah AGM battery, ProStar charge 
controller, N8XJK Boost Regulator, and a KI0BK Low Loss PowerGate. All cables 
have been fitted with multiple mix 31 ferrite dounts with multiple wraps - I’ve 
got pretty much NO RF hash on any of the HF bands on the K3 or my KX3. All the 
above power equipment feeds into a Rig Runner 4008. Anderson PowerPole 
connectors connect to as short as possible #12 cable to several devices: K3, 
P3, KX3, PX3, KXPA100, and a home brew W6PQL 2 meter all mode amp.

Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 12.4v. 
Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was not doing 
it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - the MFJ 
4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to the K3. Key 
up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this poor 
regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement. 

Am I wrong for expecting a desk power supply to do better than this? I had 
purchased this 4245 years ago because the price was right AND that it can run 
on 117 or 220 volts. At one time I had been contemplating a move to the 
Philippines and a 220v supply would be needed. By the way, nothing else running 
here in the shack other than a computer which was in sleep mode anyway, so line 
voltage sag likely is not the issue.

So, if this this a common problem with the MFJ stuff, what other 25+ amp 
supplies are folks using with their K3’s that have better regulation than 15%?

Jim / W6JHB







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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

Get your DMM out and make the same measurement at the power supply 
terminals.
If you see a substantial voltage sag during transmit there, you can 
blame the power supply.  But if the voltage stays close to constant, the 
problem is voltage drop in the power cabling.


The RigRunner will contribute some drop due to the extra contact points 
and even #12 or #10 wire has some resistance.


If the power supply is good, run a power cable direct from the power 
supply to the K3 and run another power cable to the rigrunner.  Run the 
accessories in the shack from the rigrunner.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2017 8:09 PM, James Bennett wrote:

Hi All -

Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 12.4v. 
Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was not doing 
it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - the MFJ 
4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to the K3. Key 
up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this poor 
regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement.


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[Elecraft] K3 Power Supply Question

[James Bennett]

Hi All -

I’ve been powering my station for anywhere from 7 - 9 years (can’t recall 
exactly how long!) with an MFJ4245MV switching power supply. I use it in 
conjunction with a 72 watt GE solar panel, 110 Ah AGM battery, ProStar charge 
controller, N8XJK Boost Regulator, and a KI0BK Low Loss PowerGate. All cables 
have been fitted with multiple mix 31 ferrite dounts with multiple wraps - I’ve 
got pretty much NO RF hash on any of the HF bands on the K3 or my KX3. All the 
above power equipment feeds into a Rig Runner 4008. Anderson PowerPole 
connectors connect to as short as possible #12 cable to several devices: K3, 
P3, KX3, PX3, KXPA100, and a home brew W6PQL 2 meter all mode amp.

Haven’t had any issues with the above configuration. Until today, when I 
happened to punch the K3 DISP button, changing it from reading my VFO B 
frequency to the other various bits of information. One of them was the rig 
voltage. Sitting there on 17 meters in CW mode receive it was showing a nice 
13.8V. Cool. I hit the key and - wait a minute…… it dropped way down to 12.4v. 
Huh - not so cool. My first thought was that the Boost Regulator was not doing 
it’s job. But I decided to start trouble shooring at ground zero - the MFJ 
4245. I disconnected it from the Power Gate and ran it directly to the K3. Key 
up = 13.8V. Key down = 12.0V. Yikes! I think (IMHO) calling this poor 
regulation (15%) would be a gross understatement. 

Am I wrong for expecting a desk power supply to do better than this? I had 
purchased this 4245 years ago because the price was right AND that it can run 
on 117 or 220 volts. At one time I had been contemplating a move to the 
Philippines and a 220v supply would be needed. By the way, nothing else running 
here in the shack other than a computer which was in sleep mode anyway, so line 
voltage sag likely is not the issue.

So, if this this a common problem with the MFJ stuff, what other 25+ amp 
supplies are folks using with their K3’s that have better regulation than 15%?

Jim / W6JHB







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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

[Wayne Burdick]

Hi Chris,

Thanks for your comments. 

Of course the design goal for the KX2 was to pack as many bands, modes, and 
features into the smallest possible size, not to break records on RX 
measurements. Nonetheless, I'd expect the KX2 to come in somewhere in the top 
20 or so on Rob's list. We'll see.

73,
Wayne
N6KR


On Mar 9, 2017, at 2:47 PM, Chris Tate - N6WM  wrote:

> Thanks Gus this will be interesting.  For me the KX2 could perform worse that 
> it probably will, and I would still love it for its portability and down 
> right cool factor.  That thing and a couple of small bundles of wire has you 
> qrv anywhere in the world~  what a great little transceiver!
> 
> Chris
> N6WM
> 
> 
> From: Elecraft [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of Augie "Gus" 
> Hansen [augie.han...@comcast.net]
> Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2017 2:34 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?
> 
> I just spoke to Rob on the phone. His lab in Denver is just a few miles
> from where I live and he will be testing my KX2 as soon as I can get it
> to him.
> 
> We had previously tested my Ten-Tec Omni V back when it first hit the
> market, and it was quite an eye opener for me to see his well equipped
> lab and to observe the testing procedures he uses. (I also ended up
> buying all the mods for my R-4C as well as several filters and an SE-3.
> That's still a fine RX for both ham band use and SW listening.)
> 
> Gus Hansen
> KB0YH

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

[Chris Tate - N6WM]

Thanks Gus this will be interesting.  For me the KX2 could perform worse that 
it probably will, and I would still love it for its portability and down right 
cool factor.  That thing and a couple of small bundles of wire has you qrv 
anywhere in the world~  what a great little transceiver!

Chris
N6WM


From: Elecraft [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] on behalf of Augie "Gus" 
Hansen [augie.han...@comcast.net]
Sent: Thursday, March 09, 2017 2:34 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

I just spoke to Rob on the phone. His lab in Denver is just a few miles
from where I live and he will be testing my KX2 as soon as I can get it
to him.

We had previously tested my Ten-Tec Omni V back when it first hit the
market, and it was quite an eye opener for me to see his well equipped
lab and to observe the testing procedures he uses. (I also ended up
buying all the mods for my R-4C as well as several filters and an SE-3.
That's still a fine RX for both ham band use and SW listening.)

Gus Hansen
KB0YH


On 3/9/2017 11:49 AM, Matt Murphy wrote:
> I'd be willing to send Rob my KX2 for testing.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

[Augie "Gus" Hansen]

I just spoke to Rob on the phone. His lab in Denver is just a few miles 
from where I live and he will be testing my KX2 as soon as I can get it 
to him.


We had previously tested my Ten-Tec Omni V back when it first hit the 
market, and it was quite an eye opener for me to see his well equipped 
lab and to observe the testing procedures he uses. (I also ended up 
buying all the mods for my R-4C as well as several filters and an SE-3. 
That's still a fine RX for both ham band use and SW listening.)


Gus Hansen
KB0YH


On 3/9/2017 11:49 AM, Matt Murphy wrote:

I'd be willing to send Rob my KX2 for testing.


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[Elecraft] BPF Bypass

[Devin Butterfield]

Hi,

I have a KX3 and so far I’m very pleased. Very nice design and good build.

I would like to use this radio for ALE, which requires cross-band scanning. 
This mode is used only for initial detection. If I use the KX3 as is, when 
changing bands I can clearly hear relays switching, which I think is in the BPF 
circuit (please correct me if I’m wrong).

Looking at the schematic it appears the BPF can be bypassed by asserting the 
BPF_BYPASS signal, but it isn’t clear from the user manual or CAT programming 
manual what mode in the KX3 achieves this effect.

Any ideas how to get the KX3 to bypass the BPFs?

Thanks, Devin / KD6DRS
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Behavior with Brick Amplifier

[Mel Farrer via Elecraft]

Or , you can turn the amp on with a keying line and sweep the input with a 
analyzer to see where it is matched.  CB amps are notorious for having very 
narrow input match networks, like Jim said, but the transformers are most 
likely broad band.  Worth tinkering with if you want to see whats going on..
Mel, K6KBE

  From: Jim Brown 
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 1:49 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Behavior with Brick Amplifier
   
On Thu,3/9/2017 1:11 PM, Richard Lawn wrote:
> Or am I missing something?

I'm guessing that that amp is a POS. You can filter harmonics, but you 
can't filter IMD. I'd throw it in the trash. The SWR issue is likely 
because the input circuit is tuned for 11M and doesn't pass whatever 
frequency you're trying to drive it with.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] k3 with AS-419

[Rich]

You should check to see if you need a KRC-2.   I know you need that with 
the ICE 419 filter.


Rich


On 3/9/2017 16:39 PM, NOEL POULIN wrote:

Hello Jim,
Yes I have both manuals (k3 and 419...) I suppose I will need a Y 
cable from the K3 to the 419..

Noel
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[Elecraft] k3 with AS-419

[NOEL POULIN]

Hello Jim,
Yes I have both manuals (k3 and 419...) I suppose I will need a Y cable 
from the K3 to the 419..

Noel
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Behavior with Brick Amplifier

[Jim Brown]

On Thu,3/9/2017 1:11 PM, Richard Lawn wrote:

Or am I missing something?


I'm guessing that that amp is a POS. You can filter harmonics, but you 
can't filter IMD. I'd throw it in the trash. The SWR issue is likely 
because the input circuit is tuned for 11M and doesn't pass whatever 
frequency you're trying to drive it with.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 with the AS-419 bandpass filter system

[Jim Brown]

Noel,

The data sheet says that it does, and I would believe it. The K3 puts 
out band data in several forms on the AUX connector.  Have you looked in 
the K3 manual?  It's detailed there, and you can download the manual for 
the AS-419.  Have you done that? You'll need a suitably wired cable 
between the AUX port and the AS-419.


73, Jim K9YC

On Thu,3/9/2017 12:00 PM, NOEL POULIN wrote:
I would like to know is anybody in this group using the AS-419 
bandpassfilter system with the K3?
I was told it was possible to hook the system to the K3 for automatic 
band change, without any band decoder??

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[Elecraft] KX3 Behavior with Brick Amplifier

[Richard Lawn]

I took an old Palomar solid state "broadband" amp and added a band pass
filter to the output to clean things up. I then tried it with my KX3 and to
my surprise the SWR was showing high at the KX3. The filter alone attached
to a dummy load shows a near perfect 52 ohms so the problem isn't on that
end of the chain.  If I use an inexpensive littte 5 watt 40 m QRP CW rig to
drive the amp everything seems perfect with nearly 100 watts out of the
amp.Should I assume that my idea to recycle an old CB amp was just a bad
idea and cut my losses by throwing it away?  Or am I missing something?

Rick, W2JAZ
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[Elecraft] Elecraft Frequency Memory Editor Software

[Howard Sherer]

Elecraft Frequency Memory Editor Software, has this been updated for the
Mac OS? My PC is dying very quickly!

Howard AE3T
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[Elecraft] K3 with the AS-419 bandpass filter system

[NOEL POULIN]

I would like to know is anybody in this group using the AS-419 
bandpassfilter system with the K3?
I was told it was possible to hook the system to the K3 for automatic 
band change, without any band decoder??

Comments will welcome.
Thanks
NOel

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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

[Paul Van Dyke]

I I was going to say the same thing  my unit is #38 and would be glad
to lend it for testing

Paul. KB9AVO

On Mar 9, 2017 12:50 PM, "Matt Murphy"  wrote:

> I'd be willing to send Rob my KX2 for testing.
>
> 73,
> Matt NQ6N
>
> On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 2:42 AM, Jim Brown 
> wrote:
>
> > On Wed,3/8/2017 8:41 PM, w7aqk wrote:
> >
> >> you are right to be concerned about how clean a transmitter is, but
> there
> >> are regulatory requirements about that. If you don't meet those
> standards,
> >> you supposedly can't sell it!!!
> >>
> >
> > Sadly, it goes FAR beyond that.  See my comparison of ARRL Lab data for
> > selected popular rigs, some of them in the $10K range.   Some of the most
> > expensive are really dirty on CW. http://k9yc.com/TXNoise.pdf  Also look
> > at
> >
> > http://k9yc.com/P3_Spectrum_Measurements.pdf  which consists of
> > measurements I've done myself of rigs that were made available to me.
> >
> > Most of the bad signals I hear are, I think, because someone is running
> >> things at "maximum'!
> >>
> >
> > Partly true, but some rigs are FAR dirtier than others. The link about
> > concentrates on CW.  Many popular rigs generate splatter in their output
> > stage due to poor design of TX ALC. Using ALC between the rig and a power
> > amp to set TX power is recipe for splatter and clicks. Mistuning a power
> > amp, or failure to match an antenna to the power amp also causes splatter
> > and clicks.  See http://k9yc.com/K6XXAmpTalk.pdf
> >
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> >
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

[Matt Murphy]

I'd be willing to send Rob my KX2 for testing.

73,
Matt NQ6N

On Thu, Mar 9, 2017 at 2:42 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:

> On Wed,3/8/2017 8:41 PM, w7aqk wrote:
>
>> you are right to be concerned about how clean a transmitter is, but there
>> are regulatory requirements about that. If you don't meet those standards,
>> you supposedly can't sell it!!!
>>
>
> Sadly, it goes FAR beyond that.  See my comparison of ARRL Lab data for
> selected popular rigs, some of them in the $10K range.   Some of the most
> expensive are really dirty on CW. http://k9yc.com/TXNoise.pdf  Also look
> at
>
> http://k9yc.com/P3_Spectrum_Measurements.pdf  which consists of
> measurements I've done myself of rigs that were made available to me.
>
> Most of the bad signals I hear are, I think, because someone is running
>> things at "maximum'!
>>
>
> Partly true, but some rigs are FAR dirtier than others. The link about
> concentrates on CW.  Many popular rigs generate splatter in their output
> stage due to poor design of TX ALC. Using ALC between the rig and a power
> amp to set TX power is recipe for splatter and clicks. Mistuning a power
> amp, or failure to match an antenna to the power amp also causes splatter
> and clicks.  See http://k9yc.com/K6XXAmpTalk.pdf
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[George Thornton]

I had something somewhat similar happen and the best I could tell it was 
related to power supply issues.   Now I use thicker wire direct from the power 
supply to the K3 and it so far seems to be working better.

An advertised way to fix it is to re-load the firmware and recalibrate the 
transmit power.

From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Dennis
Sent: Thursday, March 9, 2017 6:41 AM
To: Jim Stahl 
Cc: Reflector Elecraft 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

I did try the "drop" test- hold up the front of the radio a little bit,
and then drop it so that it contacts the table.
Kinda shake things up a bit. No luck. When I also brought it home, I
put it in the case, drove it 72 miles
back to my house, brought it in, and set it up 2 days later. So it was
jostled fairly good. As I say, when I got
it home it worked, and has worked, fine.

Dennis W1UE

On 3/9/2017 9:10 AM, Jim Stahl wrote:
> I had a similar event last October in the New York QSO Party with my K3, 
> s/n67xx. After the first QSO (from a beautiful overlook in Fort Tryon Park in 
> Manhattan) it simply stopped putting out RF. It went into transmit, just no 
> RF. I tried power cycling, jiggling external connectors, etc. After about 10 
> minutes, and about one minute before giving up for the contest, while moving 
> things around I unintentionally snapped the front bail, and things snapped 
> back to life.
>
> It has worked fine ever since.
>
>
> 73 - Jim K8MR
>
>
>> On Mar 9, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Dennis 
>>  wrote:
>>
>> In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting. It did not shut 
>> off, it
>> would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the meter 
>> was in
>> that position, but no power out. Pushing the TUNE button resulted in the 
>> display
>> saying "0 watts". I played with it for several minutes, was unsuccessful in 
>> restoring
>> any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going.
>>
>> I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load, and it
>> transmitted perfectly. No problems. I've used it about 3 hours since, and 
>> there
>> have been no problems.
>>
>> First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit state?
>> I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest. If the problem
>> happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
>> intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?
>>
>> Dennis W1UE
>>

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Re: [Elecraft] Augment KX3 or buy K3?

[Mark Tannert]

Four months ago or so I sold my KX3/KXPA100 combination to purchase a used
K3/100. There were a couple of factors. First of all, I had used my KX3 kit
for NPOTA extensively, and I was done with that operation. Second, I had
purchased an IC-706Mk2G and installed it mobile, permanently. Third, I
wanted to install various accessories to operate contests that simply were
not compatible with the KX3.

I wanted to use N1MM+ software to run FSK RTTY. I wanted to be able to swap
between digital and phone operation without having to unplug and re-plug. I
wanted to use a MicroHam microKeyer, which wasn't compatible with the KX3.
Finally, I wanted a smaller desktop package for home station operation and
a cleaner permanent install. I also didn't want to daisy chain amplifiers
to go > 100w (KX3 to KXPA100 to QRO amp).

In short, my operating style changed and thus my equipment did to. The fact
is that there are some accessories and software which are just not
compatible with the KX3. And while it may be possible rig up something and
'make it work', I'd rather just use gear that works as intended.

Still 100% Elecraft, though!

- WN8U
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Dennis]

I did try the "drop" test- hold up the front of the radio a little bit, 
and then drop it so that it contacts the table.
Kinda shake things up a bit.  No luck.  When I also brought it home, I 
put it in the case, drove it 72 miles
back to my house, brought it in, and set it up 2 days later.  So it was 
jostled fairly good.  As I say, when I got

it home it worked, and has worked, fine.

Dennis W1UE

On 3/9/2017 9:10 AM, Jim Stahl wrote:

I had a similar event last October in the New York QSO Party with my K3, 
s/n67xx.  After the first QSO (from a beautiful overlook in Fort Tryon Park in 
Manhattan) it simply stopped putting out RF. It went into transmit, just no RF. 
I tried power cycling, jiggling external connectors, etc. After about 10 
minutes, and about one minute before giving up for the contest, while moving 
things around I unintentionally snapped the front bail, and things snapped back 
to life.

It has worked fine ever since.


73  -  Jim   K8MR



On Mar 9, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Dennis  wrote:

In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not shut off, 
it
would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the meter was 
in
that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in the 
display
saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was unsuccessful in 
restoring
any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going.

I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load, and it
transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since, and 
there
have been no problems.

First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit state?
I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem
happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?

Dennis W1UE



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Dennis]

First thing I did- and the first thing I do whenever I have any funny 
happen- is to cycle power.  I did so

several times.  It still wouldn't transmit.

UE

On 3/9/2017 9:00 AM, Ed Muns wrote:

When it was not transmitting and you were troubleshooting, did you cycle power?

73,
Ed W0YK
On Mar 9, 2017 5:54 AM, Dennis  wrote:

In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not
shut off, it
would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the
meter was in
that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in
the display
saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was
unsuccessful in restoring
any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going.

I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load,
and it
transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since,
and there
have been no problems.

First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit state?
I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem
happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?

Dennis W1UE

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S's built-in RTTY

[Don Wilhelm]

Don,

I think the use of the K3/K3S on digital modes is easy.  If you are 
using soundcard digital modes, put the K3/K3S into DATA A mode, and 
adjust the soundcard output level to about 75%.  Change the MIC SEL to LINE.
You connect the soundcard line out (Spkr) to the K3 LINE IN and the 
soundcard line in to the K3 LINE OUT.  If you are using the K3S internal 
soundcard, those cables are not used.  Make certain there is nothing 
connected to the K3S LINE IN jack.


Adjust the K3 LINE level ("MIC GAIN") to produce 4 bars solid with the 
5th bar flashing on the ALC meter while your digital mode application is 
'transmitting'.  You can put the K3 into TX TEST for that adjustment so 
you do not emit any RF.


If you are doing RTTY, use the AFSK A data submode, it defaults to LSB. 
DATA A defaults to USB.


The major problem with folks starting out in digital modes is not with 
the radio, but with the digital mode application.  It requires setup, 
selection of the COM port, selection of the right soundcard, the correct 
rig, and other settings.  So refer to the instructions for whatever 
software you are using.
If those instructions tell you to set the radio's power to full and use 
the audio level to adjust the power output, ignore that (and similar 
internet advice) - that does not work well with Elecraft gear, use the 
information given above to set the audio level and set the desired power 
with the power knob.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/9/2017 9:13 AM, Don Pomplun wrote:

Thanx for all the good points raised for this RTTY-wannabee, morphing
from CW.  I always get Fred's books even before buying the Elecraft
hardware, but even with his excellent explanations of the terse official
manuals, digital mode use is still a lot of digestion.  e.g., it was
only yesterday that it became obvious that the K3S has its own sound
card built in (I think I'm right). I draw the analogy between the K3 and
what was said of Mozart: '"too many notes".

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S's built-in RTTY

[Don Pomplun]

Thanx for all the good points raised for this RTTY-wannabee, morphing 
from CW.  I always get Fred's books even before buying the Elecraft 
hardware, but even with his excellent explanations of the terse official 
manuals, digital mode use is still a lot of digestion.  e.g., it was 
only yesterday that it became obvious that the K3S has its own sound 
card built in (I think I'm right). I draw the analogy between the K3 and 
what was said of Mozart: '"too many notes".


Don  K2BIO



On Wed,3/8/2017 7:42 PM, Don Pomplun wrote:
I'm hoping hat I can use the K3S sound card hardware & PC software 
for the receive side, and use the paddle CW interface as the transmit 
side.  Any experience in the group with doing that? 



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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Jim Stahl via Elecraft]

I had a similar event last October in the New York QSO Party with my K3, 
s/n67xx.  After the first QSO (from a beautiful overlook in Fort Tryon Park in 
Manhattan) it simply stopped putting out RF. It went into transmit, just no RF. 
I tried power cycling, jiggling external connectors, etc. After about 10 
minutes, and about one minute before giving up for the contest, while moving 
things around I unintentionally snapped the front bail, and things snapped back 
to life.

It has worked fine ever since.


73  -  Jim   K8MR


> On Mar 9, 2017, at 8:54 AM, Dennis  wrote:
> 
> In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not shut 
> off, it
> would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the meter 
> was in
> that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in the 
> display
> saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was unsuccessful in 
> restoring
> any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going.
> 
> I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load, and it
> transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since, and 
> there
> have been no problems.
> 
> First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit state?
> I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem
> happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
> intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?
> 
> Dennis W1UE
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Ed Muns]

When it was not transmitting and you were troubleshooting, did you cycle power?

73,
Ed W0YK
On Mar 9, 2017 5:54 AM, Dennis  wrote:
>
> In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not 
> shut off, it 
> would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the 
> meter was in 
> that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in 
> the display 
> saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was 
> unsuccessful in restoring 
> any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going. 
>
> I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load, 
> and it 
> transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since, 
> and there 
> have been no problems. 
>
> First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit state? 
> I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem 
> happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/ 
> intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer? 
>
> Dennis W1UE 
>
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[Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[John Dolan]

Hi Dennis,

I am certain you checked for this issue but my first thought would be that you 
had a power supply issue or power cable issue.

73, John WB4YAL
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[Elecraft] K3 Stops Transmitting

[Dennis]

In the middle of ARRL DX CW, my K3 stopped transmitting.  It did not 
shut off, it
would go into transmit and there were small flickers in ALC when the 
meter was in
that position, but no power out.  Pushing the TUNE button resulted in 
the display
saying "0 watts".  I played with it for several minutes, was 
unsuccessful in restoring

any transmit capability, so subbed in the replacement rig and kept going.

I brought my K3 home, plugged it in, connected a key and a dummy load, 
and it
transmitted perfectly.  No problems.  I've used it about 3 hours since, 
and there

have been no problems.

First question, what could have happened to result in the no transmit state?
I will be using my K3 again this weekend in a contest.  If the problem
happens again, what possible problems should I be looking for? Loose/
intermittent cable attached to the synthesizer?

Dennis W1UE

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Re: [Elecraft] Birdies

[GRANT YOUNGMAN]

I might fiddle some more with cable placement.  I also plan to clear all of the 
signal removal data and just rework it.

I had the birdies cleaned up with the removal tool in most areas of the bands I 
operate.  But since relocating the middle of last year into an “antenna free” 
zone, I’ve been primarily using my KX3 with various temporary and stealth 
antennas.  Had the K3 out the past couple of weeks to put a couple of updates 
in, and while tuning around to make sure everything was working again, really 
noticed them.  Most likely I didn’t get the various cables back in the same 
place they were the last time I had the radio torn down, and that affected the 
previous removal settings.

As someone suggested, it might be external signals, but they move backwards 
like a birdie and don’t show up on the KX3, so it isn’t likely.  It didn’t help 
either that at least part of the time, I had no antenna connected, which made 
even the weak ones that normally get buried in band noise stick out … :-)


> 
> The firmware birdie removal took care of every bothersome birdie (and I am a 
> stickler about weak signal performance) except for one that was still an S2 
> or so ... and that was in a portion of the band that I don't care much about.
> 
> I did play around quite a bit with cable placement (see humorous note below) 
> to prior to using the firmware fix, and didn't necessarily find the best 
> arrangement to be the ones that Elecraft recommends.  By the way, the best 
> layout is quite dependent upon whether or not you have the 2nd receiver 
> installed.
> 

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342



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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 and Sherwood Eng. RX Performance Ranking?

[Jim Brown]

On Wed,3/8/2017 8:41 PM, w7aqk wrote:
you are right to be concerned about how clean a transmitter is, but 
there are regulatory requirements about that. If you don't meet those 
standards, you supposedly can't sell it!!! 


Sadly, it goes FAR beyond that.  See my comparison of ARRL Lab data for 
selected popular rigs, some of them in the $10K range.   Some of the 
most expensive are really dirty on CW. http://k9yc.com/TXNoise.pdf  Also 
look at


http://k9yc.com/P3_Spectrum_Measurements.pdf  which consists of 
measurements I've done myself of rigs that were made available to me.


Most of the bad signals I hear are, I think, because someone is 
running things at "maximum'!


Partly true, but some rigs are FAR dirtier than others. The link about 
concentrates on CW.  Many popular rigs generate splatter in their output 
stage due to poor design of TX ALC. Using ALC between the rig and a 
power amp to set TX power is recipe for splatter and clicks. Mistuning a 
power amp, or failure to match an antenna to the power amp also causes 
splatter and clicks.  See http://k9yc.com/K6XXAmpTalk.pdf


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Birdies

[David Gilbert]

The firmware birdie removal took care of every bothersome birdie (and I 
am a stickler about weak signal performance) except for one that was 
still an S2 or so ... and that was in a portion of the band that I don't 
care much about.


I did play around quite a bit with cable placement (see humorous note 
below) to prior to using the firmware fix, and didn't necessarily find 
the best arrangement to be the ones that Elecraft recommends.  By the 
way, the best layout is quite dependent upon whether or not you have the 
2nd receiver installed.


Of course the firmware birdie removal won't remove them from the 
panadapter ... don't know why you'd think it would.  If you read the 
description of how it works it simply shifts them out of the normal 
listening passband, but they will still be in the IF window.


Dave   AB7E

Note:  Prior to the firmware fix, I tried all sorts of things to reduce 
the birdies.  Once I got the cable placement as best I could, I even cut 
up sheets of carbon impregnated foam, put them inside of plastic 
sandwich bags, and stuffed the K3 with them to hopefully absorb some of 
the coupled energy between cables and various metal parts.  It was a 
total waste of time.  ;)




On 3/8/2017 7:30 PM, ab2tc wrote:

Hi,

Can you give me a list (frequencies) of your worst birdies and I will check
if I have them. In general I have not found many bothersome birdies in the
K3S, but there are some. If I don't have them, there is clearly something
wrong with your radio which may warrant a return to Elecraft. BTW, I don't
have much faith in firmware birdie removal. It certainly doesn't remove
birdies in the panadapter display (LP-Pan and NaP3 in my case).

AB2TC - Knut


Grant Youngman-2 wrote

I LOVE my K3 … It’s the best radio I’ve owned (and I’ve owned
many/most/all of the very best)., except on AM where my old Orion/Orion II
(the ones I sold to buy the K3) were much better … but that’s a different
issue.  (And E’craft won’t “formally" deal with it).   Everything else
about the K3 is FAR superior.
  
After, I don’t know 8-9 years of ownership ..  ALL (and I do mean ALL)

hardware/software updates have been applied, including the new K3S boards
that have been made available.  So it’s as up to date as possible.
Still — the age old issue of “birdies” has been an elusive problem to
solve.

Just for the record .. I have 2x KYSYN3A’s installed, a subreciever, and
the other usual updated stuff.  I’ve fiddled for hours with the birdie
removal routines in firmware.  And yet — they’re everywhere.  Most are low
enough in signal strength to ignore — but there are many LOUD ones here
and there on 80/4020/and elsewhere that are just “there”.  Nothing really
helps.  I just spent an evening fiddling with cable placement AGAIN, to no
avail.

I’ve followed carefully all of the cable routing instructions provided by
Elecraft.  To no real effect.

So my question is — has anyone found a SOLUTION??  I’m considering sending
my radio to CA, but I'm concerned that after spending the $$$ to do that I
won’t be any better off.

To be clear — this isn’t a deal killer by any stretch  … just looking for
input.

Grant NQ5T
K3 #2091, KX3 #8342






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