Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft KIO3B and WSJT-X

[Josh Fiden]

It's a good idea, but too severely limiting since almost all monitors 
now run on 19V. Thus far the HP 23es is fine. I ran RTTY with it next to 
KPA500 on several bands with no issues. Final test will be pointing the 
6m EME array at the shack and listening. The monitors look really good 
and were on sale at Best Buy for $119!


73,
Josh W6XU

On 1/7/2018 3:04 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Josh,

See if you can find a monitor with an external power supply that 
produces 12 volts.
If you can accomplish that, connect the monitor to the shack 12 volt 
power system instead of using the switching 'wall-wart' that comes 
with the monitor.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/6/2018 5:16 PM, Josh wrote:

That's a good clue, Bert!

So turning off the monitor should kill the noise. Easy to test.

Funny you mention it. I'm going to test a prospective new monitor 
today. I'm trying a smaller one so I can fit 2 on the operating desk. 
I find lots of them are unusable, either the monitor or it's PS 
generates noise, or they are susceptible to RF.






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[Elecraft] K1 Portable Stand

[Rich Arland]

Several months ago someone on this list needed the portable stand for a K1. I 
managed to lose that e-mail (of course). So, if that person still needs the 
mount give me a shout OFF LIST and I'll get the shipping info and get it out to 
whomever.


Vy 73 es gud DX!

Rich Arland   K7SZ
Cogito ergo CQ (I think therefore, I HAM)

Hallicrafters/Heathkit/Ten-Tec archeologist
Bent Dipole Ranch, Dacula, GA

http://commobunker.blogspot.com/

Author: "ARRL's Low Power Communications, the Art and Science of QRP" (all 4 
editions)
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Fred Jensen]

Ahhh yes, the End-fed Zepp.  Trailing wire out the back of the gasbag, 
open wire line to the TX with one end open at the antenna.  Every time 
someone mentions it, I have Hindenburg dreams.


Yes, it does need a small something for a counterpoise, given the small 
current in the high impedance load.  One model I tried on 20m needed 
about 17 cm of counterpoise, but those little currents seem to use 
whatever is available and apparently, there's always something 
moderately conductive available.


Sometimes, I think we forget that we are "Amateur" radio operators.  
We're not designing antennas for a broadcast station or the VOA.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/9/2018 5:48 PM, K9MA wrote:

On 1/9/2018 19:25, Bill Johnson wrote:

With a 1/2 wave a counterpoise is not used.


It needs SOME counterpoise, but not much, because the current in it is 
very small.  If nothing else is available, the coax shield will 
suffice, and causes no harm.  The small current at the end of the 
antenna has to have a return somewhere.  I recall old versions of the 
Handbook showed an EFHW fed with open wire, with nothing at all 
connected to the other conductor, and never could figure out how that 
worked.  I suppose a little common mode current in the open wire 
line.  Later versions, I think, showed a short wire opposite the 
antenna, which at least made sense to me.  The point is that the very 
small current at the end of the EFHW will find a return somewhere, and 
it really doesn't matter.


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Fred Jensen]

Thanks Al!  Looks like most violate Jim's guidance.  Probably explains 
why it doesn't work on 6 and may not work or work well on 10 and 12 if I 
live to 2021 when we should see spots.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/9/2018 1:50 PM, VE3GAM wrote:

here's a video from N4LQ Steve Ellington,
which shows the inside of the Myantennas box



Al ve3gam


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

The EFHW with open wire line such as you describe is the classic Zepp antenna. 
They are a single-frequency antenna designed for the Zeppelin airships, hence 
their name. The radiator is exactly 1/2 wavelength long (electrically) with an 
electrically 1/4 wave long open wire feeder. At 1/4 wave long the feeder 
inverts the impedance of the antenna, transforming the very high impedance at 
the end of the half wave radiator into a low impedance at the transmitter. 

A real-world half wave radiator has an impedance at its end of perhaps 4,000 to 
6,000 ohms so, indeed, the current the feed point is very low. The other side 
of the feed line simply goes to an insulator and is connected to nothing else. 
However there is always some small leakage current in the insulator so the 
balance of currents in the feed line is good. 

Of course, such an antenna, like any hunk of wire, can be made to accept power 
on any frequency and, like any other antenna, works best when in the clear and 
well above ground where the Zeppelins tended to hang out, HI! 

73, Ron AC7AC



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of K9MA
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 5:48 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

On 1/9/2018 19:25, Bill Johnson wrote:
> With a 1/2 wave a counterpoise is not used.

It needs SOME counterpoise, but not much, because the current in it is very 
small.  If nothing else is available, the coax shield will suffice, and causes 
no harm.  The small current at the end of the antenna has to have a return 
somewhere.  I recall old versions of the Handbook showed an EFHW fed with open 
wire, with nothing at all connected to the other conductor, and never could 
figure out how that worked.  I suppose a little common mode current in the open 
wire line.  Later versions, I think, showed a short wire opposite the antenna, 
which at least made sense to me.  The point is that the very small current at 
the end of the EFHW will find a return somewhere, and it really doesn't matter.

One way to tell with a QRP radio whether you need a counterpoise is to watch 
the SWR as your put your hand on the case of the radio or tuner. If the SWR 
doesn't change, you're good to go.  I don't recommend this technique at high 
power levels.

All of this is true ONLY for an end fed antenna which is a multiple of a half 
wave.

73,

Scott K9MA

--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[K9MA]

On 1/9/2018 19:25, Bill Johnson wrote:

With a 1/2 wave a counterpoise is not used.


It needs SOME counterpoise, but not much, because the current in it is 
very small.  If nothing else is available, the coax shield will suffice, 
and causes no harm.  The small current at the end of the antenna has to 
have a return somewhere.  I recall old versions of the Handbook showed 
an EFHW fed with open wire, with nothing at all connected to the other 
conductor, and never could figure out how that worked.  I suppose a 
little common mode current in the open wire line.  Later versions, I 
think, showed a short wire opposite the antenna, which at least made 
sense to me.  The point is that the very small current at the end of the 
EFHW will find a return somewhere, and it really doesn't matter.


One way to tell with a QRP radio whether you need a counterpoise is to 
watch the SWR as your put your hand on the case of the radio or tuner.  
If the SWR doesn't change, you're good to go.  I don't recommend this 
technique at high power levels.


All of this is true ONLY for an end fed antenna which is a multiple of a 
half wave.


73,

Scott K9MA

--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Bill Johnson]

FWIW:  I believe I answered the question earlier on.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 3:49 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

Going way back to the original post, it seems to me that there is a simple 
answer:

The OP wants something that is very portable, that the KX2 will tune.

The whole balun discussion comes from trying to match a near-infinite 
impedance, and chopping the wire down a bit (or making it longer) is going to 
bring it to an impedance that the tuner can match.

Lotta folks doing that.

73 -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Bill Johnson]

Fred, I am using the 160 2KWQ version.  The coax is not a counterpoise.  With a 
1/2 wave a counterpoise is not used.  You can get 2x the freq from the lowest 
freq of your wire.  Deviating beyond that adds loss and lack of tuning.  Use an 
analyzer to determine the intended freq parameters and you can double .  My 160 
works great around 1.900 +/- 30 Khz with a tuner, but at the widths I mentioned 
the efficiency falls off.  Use a ground at the xfrmer.  This is not a 
counterpoise, just a method to remove static which a 1/2 wave will collect.  As 
you state, getting a good SWR is not an indication of efficiency.  Height, 
direction, etc., all matter.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Fred Jensen
Sent: Tuesday, January 9, 2018 3:26 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

I use an end-fed wire [1/2 wave on 80] from MyAntennas.com run along the top of 
a wood fence about 1.8 meters high.  It has a transformer in a sealed box.  The 
outer surface of the coax seems to serve as the counterpoise.  It enters the 
house through a steel pipe near the ground into a closet and thence to the 
K3/100.

It works as good as one could expect on 80, 60, 40, 30, and 20. 40 seems to be 
it's sweet spot.  It works on 160 ... not great ... but I make Q's.  It's OK on 
17 and 15, the SFI has prevented much testing on 12 and
10 although it has SWR minimums [1.3:1 or so] there.  It has 1.2:1 SWR on 6 on 
which I have made exactly zero contacts when the band was open this last summer 
and could hear lots of stations.

Apparently low SWR does not guarantee low loss, however any antenna is better 
than no antenna. [:-)  I'd have to destroy it to see what's inside the box.

73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/9/2018 1:33 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 1/8/2018 8:19 PM, K9MA wrote:
>> I would be cautious about using a transformer above 40 meters, as the 
>> stray capacitance may be too large.  I haven't tried it, though, so 
>> it might work with some transformers.
>
> For years, we've been winding our transformers wrong. The windings 
> should be on opposite sides of the core, so that capacitive coupling 
> is minimized, NOT laying on top of one another. In a ferrite 
> materialthat is SUITABLE for use as a transformer, the mu is high 
> enough that a VERY high fraction of the flux in  toroid is contained 
> within the core, with very little leakage flux. Windings that lay on 
> top of each other maximize capacitive coupling, and thus maximize 
> common mode current. Windings on opposite sides of the core minimize 
> common mode current.
>
> Ferrites are semiconductors, so they act as a dielectric. When we 
> place windings on opposite sides of a core, we maximize magnetic 
> coupling and minimize capacitive coupling, which is from one winding 
> to the core and from the core to the other winding. That capacitance 
> is VERY small if the windings are widely spaced.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] KPA1500 manual

[Paul Baldock]

Is there a fairly complete KPA1500 manual on line anywhere? The only 
one I have found is on the FCC web site from last August.


- Paul KW7Y

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[Elecraft] K3 Boards

[handbook]

Hello Every one,
 I am looking for a KBPF3 rev A and A KXV3A rev E board. If anyone has extras 
of these boards and would be willing to part with them please contact me.
Thank You,
Stan  - N8HN
n...@tutanota.com


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Don Wilhelm]

The end fed dipole is a good solution for a portable antenna - it is 
relatively easy to get one wire up in the air - tie a line to a half 
filled (or more) water bottle and throw it over whatever support is 
available, tie the line to the antenna end and pull it up.


For the home station where there are more options for supporting the 
antenna, I prefer center fed dipoles over the end fed.
The center feed maintains balance on the feedline (especially if the 
feedline runs perpendicular to the radiator for at least 1/4 wavelength) 
and greatly reduces the chances of RF in the shack - yes a balun at the 
feedpoint is still necessary to keep RF off the outside of the coax.


So while the end fed antennas will work and radiate effectively, they 
can be difficult to tame for RF, but with portable ops, that is usually 
not a big problem because low power is typically used.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/9/2018 5:51 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:

What part of life isn't a trade-off?

Another answer might be "don't feed it at the end."

I'd be thinking about a quarter-wave of ladder line if I was aiming at 
one band -- always liked J antennas.

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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

What part of life isn't a trade-off?

Another answer might be "don't feed it at the end."

I'd be thinking about a quarter-wave of ladder line if I was aiming at 
one band -- always liked J antennas.


A dipole is a lot closer to 50 ohms.

Lots of answers.  All compromises.

73 -- Lynn

On 1/9/2018 2:37 PM, K9MA wrote:

On 1/9/2018 15:48, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
The whole balun discussion comes from trying to match a near-infinite 
impedance, and chopping the wire down a bit (or making it longer) is 
going to bring it to an impedance that the tuner can match.


That's a trade-off:  You can match it without an external tuner designed 
for high impedance antennas, but the higher counterpoise current will 
waste some of your power.  Also, the high current part of the wire, 
which does most of the radiating, may be closer to the ground.


73,

Scott  K9MA


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[K9MA]

On 1/9/2018 15:48, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT wrote:
The whole balun discussion comes from trying to match a near-infinite 
impedance, and chopping the wire down a bit (or making it longer) is 
going to bring it to an impedance that the tuner can match.


That's a trade-off:  You can match it without an external tuner designed 
for high impedance antennas, but the higher counterpoise current will 
waste some of your power.  Also, the high current part of the wire, 
which does most of the radiating, may be closer to the ground.


73,

Scott  K9MA

--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: PTT switch for K3

[bill steffey]

try a pawn shop, as musicians are always dumping their stuff

At 04:07 PM 1/8/2018, Andrew Faber via Elecraft wrote:

DX Engineering sells several also.
73, andy ae6y

-Original Message- From: Rose
Sent: Monday, January 08, 2018 12:19 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] Fwd: PTT switch for K3

Music equipment stores usually have a variety of foot switches ...

73!

Ken - K0PP



Tattoo parlor foot pedals are rugged and cheap.  I had to swap out




for a longer cord but the switch itself is rugged and not too hard to
press.

https://www.amazon.com/Style-Tattoo-Pedal-Degree-Switch/dp/B
077WCXW7Z/ref=sr_1_3_sspa?ie=UTF8=1515385276=8-3-spon
s=tattoo+switch=1

k4ia, Buck
K3# 101
Honor Roll  8B DXCC
EasyWayHamBooks.com

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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

KX2 so not much power.  53 feet of Wireman #534 should tune and radiate 
on most bands with a KX2, and fit in a sandwich sized baggie.  Another 
chunk for a counterpoise.


Simple.  Maybe not perfect, but simple.

73 -- Lynn

On 1/9/2018 1:57 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

I use a switch tapped air inductor with a variable C on one end. It is an L 
network thus it is reversible and will match either Hi Z or Lo Z loads. This 
always brings the load to within range the ATU in the radio can resolve a match.

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone


On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
 wrote:

Going way back to the original post, it seems to me that there is a simple 
answer:

The OP wants something that is very portable, that the KX2 will tune.

The whole balun discussion comes from trying to match a near-infinite 
impedance, and chopping the wire down a bit (or making it longer) is going to 
bring it to an impedance that the tuner can match.

Lotta folks doing that.

73 -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I use a switch tapped air inductor with a variable C on one end. It is an L 
network thus it is reversible and will match either Hi Z or Lo Z loads. This 
always brings the load to within range the ATU in the radio can resolve a 
match. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:48 PM, Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT 
>  wrote:
> 
> Going way back to the original post, it seems to me that there is a simple 
> answer:
> 
> The OP wants something that is very portable, that the KX2 will tune.
> 
> The whole balun discussion comes from trying to match a near-infinite 
> impedance, and chopping the wire down a bit (or making it longer) is going to 
> bring it to an impedance that the tuner can match.
> 
> Lotta folks doing that.
> 
> 73 -- Lynn
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> 


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[VE3GAM]

here's a video from N4LQ Steve Ellington,
which shows the inside of the Myantennas box



Al ve3gam

--
From: "Dennis Moore" 
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 4:28 PM
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna


Inquiring minds want to know...  :-)

Dennis NJ6G


On 1/9/2018 13:25, Fred Jensen wrote:
I'd have to destroy it to see what's inside the box. 


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

Going way back to the original post, it seems to me that there is a 
simple answer:


The OP wants something that is very portable, that the KX2 will tune.

The whole balun discussion comes from trying to match a near-infinite 
impedance, and chopping the wire down a bit (or making it longer) is 
going to bring it to an impedance that the tuner can match.


Lotta folks doing that.

73 -- Lynn
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Lynn W. Taylor, WB6UUT]

He does sell just the box.

On 1/9/2018 1:28 PM, Dennis Moore wrote:

Inquiring minds want to know...  :-)

Dennis NJ6G


On 1/9/2018 13:25, Fred Jensen wrote:
I'd have to destroy it to see what's inside the box. 


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Dennis Moore]

Inquiring minds want to know...  :-)

Dennis NJ6G


On 1/9/2018 13:25, Fred Jensen wrote:
I'd have to destroy it to see what's inside the box. 


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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Fred Jensen]

I use an end-fed wire [1/2 wave on 80] from MyAntennas.com run along the 
top of a wood fence about 1.8 meters high.  It has a transformer in a 
sealed box.  The outer surface of the coax seems to serve as the 
counterpoise.  It enters the house through a steel pipe near the ground 
into a closet and thence to the K3/100.


It works as good as one could expect on 80, 60, 40, 30, and 20. 40 seems 
to be it's sweet spot.  It works on 160 ... not great ... but I make 
Q's.  It's OK on 17 and 15, the SFI has prevented much testing on 12 and 
10 although it has SWR minimums [1.3:1 or so] there.  It has 1.2:1 SWR 
on 6 on which I have made exactly zero contacts when the band was open 
this last summer and could hear lots of stations.


Apparently low SWR does not guarantee low loss, however any antenna is 
better than no antenna. [:-)  I'd have to destroy it to see what's 
inside the box.


73,

Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 1/9/2018 1:33 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

On 1/8/2018 8:19 PM, K9MA wrote:
I would be cautious about using a transformer above 40 meters, as the 
stray capacitance may be too large.  I haven't tried it, though, so 
it might work with some transformers.


For years, we've been winding our transformers wrong. The windings 
should be on opposite sides of the core, so that capacitive coupling 
is minimized, NOT laying on top of one another. In a ferrite 
materialthat is SUITABLE for use as a transformer, the mu is high 
enough that a VERY high fraction of the flux in  toroid is contained 
within the core, with very little leakage flux. Windings that lay on 
top of each other maximize capacitive coupling, and thus maximize 
common mode current. Windings on opposite sides of the core minimize 
common mode current.


Ferrites are semiconductors, so they act as a dielectric. When we 
place windings on opposite sides of a core, we maximize magnetic 
coupling and minimize capacitive coupling, which is from one winding 
to the core and from the core to the other winding. That capacitance 
is VERY small if the windings are widely spaced.


73, Jim K9YC


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I think this is what one looks like.


73
Bob, K4TAX




On 1/9/2018 1:14 PM, IK4EWX wrote:

Scott, the hex key is a  copy of a N2DAN on an hex base, produced by Bencher
after they bought the right of N2DAN paddle.
Sure it is a great key.
Vibroplex/Bencher now sell il for 324 $, I think this is adeguate value for
this first class iambic paddle.
I own a great N2DAN paddle, so I think to know the quality of your paddle.
Ian IK4EWX



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[IK4EWX]

Scott, the hex key is a  copy of a N2DAN on an hex base, produced by Bencher
after they bought the right of N2DAN paddle.
Sure it is a great key.
Vibroplex/Bencher now sell il for 324 $, I think this is adeguate value for
this first class iambic paddle.
I own a great N2DAN paddle, so I think to know the quality of your paddle.
Ian IK4EWX



--
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[Elecraft] OT: Apology from "Rose" of Elecraft Cases and Covers

[Rose]

Hi All!

If you've asked for a quote or other information from me
in the last three weeks and haven't yet received a reply,
here's the reason

We ... OM K0PP ... and I live in the country and just before
Christmas suffered a total failure of our water well and
pump system.  Our home, along with the well and pump
dates from the early '60's and it can be argued that we were
overdue for a problem, but how does one anticipate such
failures?  We've spent the time over the Holidays hauling
water from town and "getting by".

Think of all the times you turn a faucet, take a shower or
use the toilet and suddenly find yourself in a situation where
none of this works anymore.

Our pump and well were restored late yesterday (08-Jan)
and things are returning to normal.

As far as I know I have all of your messages and will respond
as soon as possible.  Don't hesitate to follow up if you're
concerned.

FWIW ... aside from the Christmas and New Year holidays
our 62nd year wedding anniversary fell within this period. (:-((

I apologize for the bandwidth, but I wanted all to know what
was going on.

73!

Rose - N7HKW
elecraftcov...@gmail.com
1-406-560-3738
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[Mark Goldberg]

Select "Completed listings" on the left of the ebay page and you can see
what past items sold (or did not sell) for. Two recently sold for about
$200. That is the real value I would use as a reference.

Ebay has transitioned to a lot of "Buy It Now" and "Best Offer" items
instead of auctions. Many are "new" knockoffs. I have found that the "Best
Offer" items can go for 20% or more below the asking price. The completed
listings won't tell what the selling price of those items were,
unfortunately. Ebay also has quite high fees when you include Ebay and
Paypal fees, but you do get some protections not found in private sales.

73,

Mark
W7MLG


On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 11:24 AM, K2bew  wrote:

> There is a big difference between what someone asks and what someone is
> willing to pay.
> There are overpriced things on eBay posted all the time by people trying to
> flip them just to make money.
> I shake my head many times over the prices I sometimes see things listed
> for.
> If your going that route just list it as an auction starting relatively low
> and let the market set the price.
> 73
> Tom
>
> On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 11:41 Chuck Milam, N9KY  wrote:
>
> > There's one listed on eBay right now for $399.95.
> >
> > ---
> > Chuck Milam, N9KY
> > n...@arrl.net
> >
> > --
> Sent from my iPad Gmail
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[Charlie T]

A paddle keyer named  "HEX" ???

I thought you were asking about an Allen wrench.
C


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nr4c
Sent: Tuesday, January 09, 2018 10:39 AM
To: j...@kk9a.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

I paid $200 for mine new a few guests ago. Passed it to another CW op when I
purchased a real N2DAN Mercury paddle. 

I liked the Hex a lot.  Very stable and solid feel. 


Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 8, 2018, at 2:55 PM, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> 
> $1?
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> 
> 
> Scott Manthe wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know what an Elecraft labeled Hex Key is worth? I've got 
> one in great shape that I'm considering selling.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott N9AA
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[K2bew]

There is a big difference between what someone asks and what someone is
willing to pay.
There are overpriced things on eBay posted all the time by people trying to
flip them just to make money.
I shake my head many times over the prices I sometimes see things listed
for.
If your going that route just list it as an auction starting relatively low
and let the market set the price.
73
Tom

On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 11:41 Chuck Milam, N9KY  wrote:

> There's one listed on eBay right now for $399.95.
>
> ---
> Chuck Milam, N9KY
> n...@arrl.net
>
> --
Sent from my iPad Gmail
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA500 remote program - Power control

[Dick Dievendorff]

Ahh, that’s it!  

Dick




Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2018, at 09:33, Paul Baldock  wrote:
> 
> I changed the Baud rate from 9600 to 38400 and now the POWER button works to 
> turn the amp on and off.
> 
> - Paul
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I am running KPA500 remote program. I am connected via RS232.
> 
> If the KPA500 is ON (at the back and at the front) then I can HOST and 
> CONNECT to the KPA500 and control all functions. When I press the POWER 
> button on the KPA500 remote program the KPA500 correctly turns off. However, 
> when I press the remote POWER button again the KPA500 does not turn back on. 
> It seems that the KPA500 RS232 port is not active when the KP500 is not ON.  
> Is this correct? If so how do I turn the power on remotely from the PC?
> 
> Thanks
> 
> - Paul
> 
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[Elecraft] KPA500 remote program - Power control

[Paul Baldock]

I changed the Baud rate from 9600 to 38400 and now the POWER button 
works to turn the amp on and off.


- Paul




I am running KPA500 remote program. I am connected via RS232.

If the KPA500 is ON (at the back and at the front) then I can HOST 
and CONNECT to the KPA500 and control all functions. When I press the 
POWER button on the KPA500 remote program the KPA500 correctly turns 
off. However, when I press the remote POWER button again the KPA500 
does not turn back on. It seems that the KPA500 RS232 port is not 
active when the KP500 is not ON.  Is this correct? If so how do I 
turn the power on remotely from the PC?


Thanks

- Paul

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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[K9MA]

On 1/9/2018 10:45, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:

Darn autocorrect "balun"..not baling!


Many, many years ago, I wrote a report on a balun I designed. The typist 
(remember those?) changed every "balun" to "balloon", and no doubt told 
all her friends how bad engineers are at spelling.


73,

Scott K9MA

--
Scott  K9MA

k...@sdellington.us

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[Elecraft] KPA500 remote program - Power control

[Paul Baldock]

I am running KPA500 remote program. I am connected via RS232.

If the KPA500 is ON (at the back and at the front) then I can HOST 
and CONNECT to the KPA500 and control all functions. When I press the 
POWER button on the KPA500 remote program the KPA500 correctly turns 
off. However, when I press the remote POWER button again the KPA500 
does not turn back on. It seems that the KPA500 RS232 port is not 
active when the KP500 is not ON.  Is this correct? If so how do I 
turn the power on remotely from the PC?


Thanks

- Paul

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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Darn autocorrect "balun"..not baling!

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2018, at 10:41 AM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Not only winding them wrong but if find more and more being used incorrectly. 
> There is no one baling design that can be used in all applications.  The more 
> common error is the internal balun contained in tuners. 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:33 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On 1/8/2018 8:19 PM, K9MA wrote:
>>> I would be cautious about using a transformer above 40 meters, as the stray 
>>> capacitance may be too large.  I haven't tried it, though, so it might work 
>>> with some transformers.
>> 
>> For years, we've been winding our transformers wrong. The windings should be 
>> on opposite sides of the core, so that capacitive coupling is minimized, NOT 
>> laying on top of one another. In a ferrite materialthat is SUITABLE for use 
>> as a transformer, the mu is high enough that a VERY high fraction of the 
>> flux in  toroid is contained within the core, with very little leakage flux. 
>> Windings that lay on top of each other maximize capacitive coupling, and 
>> thus maximize common mode current. Windings on opposite sides of the core 
>> minimize common mode current.
>> 
>> Ferrites are semiconductors, so they act as a dielectric. When we place 
>> windings on opposite sides of a core, we maximize magnetic coupling and 
>> minimize capacitive coupling, which is from one winding to the core and from 
>> the core to the other winding. That capacitance is VERY small if the 
>> windings are widely spaced.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Not only winding them wrong but if find more and more being used incorrectly. 
There is no one baling design that can be used in all applications.  The more 
common error is the internal balun contained in tuners. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 9, 2018, at 3:33 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 1/8/2018 8:19 PM, K9MA wrote:
>> I would be cautious about using a transformer above 40 meters, as the stray 
>> capacitance may be too large.  I haven't tried it, though, so it might work 
>> with some transformers.
> 
> For years, we've been winding our transformers wrong. The windings should be 
> on opposite sides of the core, so that capacitive coupling is minimized, NOT 
> laying on top of one another. In a ferrite materialthat is SUITABLE for use 
> as a transformer, the mu is high enough that a VERY high fraction of the flux 
> in  toroid is contained within the core, with very little leakage flux. 
> Windings that lay on top of each other maximize capacitive coupling, and thus 
> maximize common mode current. Windings on opposite sides of the core minimize 
> common mode current.
> 
> Ferrites are semiconductors, so they act as a dielectric. When we place 
> windings on opposite sides of a core, we maximize magnetic coupling and 
> minimize capacitive coupling, which is from one winding to the core and from 
> the core to the other winding. That capacitance is VERY small if the windings 
> are widely spaced.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[Chuck Milam, N9KY]

There's one listed on eBay right now for $399.95.

---
Chuck Milam, N9KY
n...@arrl.net

On Tue, Jan 9, 2018 at 9:38 AM, Nr4c  wrote:

> I paid $200 for mine new a few guests ago. Passed it to another CW op when
> I purchased a real N2DAN Mercury paddle.
>
> I liked the Hex a lot.  Very stable and solid feel.
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
> > On Jan 8, 2018, at 2:55 PM, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> >
> > $1?
> >
> > John KK9A
> >
> >
> >
> > Scott Manthe wrote:
> >
> > Does anyone know what an Elecraft labeled Hex Key is worth? I've got one
> > in great shape that I'm considering selling.
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Scott N9AA
> >
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >
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> > Message delivered to n...@widomaker.com
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Hex Key worth?

[Nr4c]

I paid $200 for mine new a few guests ago. Passed it to another CW op when I 
purchased a real N2DAN Mercury paddle. 

I liked the Hex a lot.  Very stable and solid feel. 


Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Jan 8, 2018, at 2:55 PM, "j...@kk9a.com"  wrote:
> 
> $1?
> 
> John KK9A
> 
> 
> 
> Scott Manthe wrote:
> 
> Does anyone know what an Elecraft labeled Hex Key is worth? I've got one
> in great shape that I'm considering selling.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Scott N9AA
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] PAR/LNR EFHW antenna

[Jim Brown]

On 1/8/2018 8:19 PM, K9MA wrote:
I would be cautious about using a transformer above 40 meters, as the 
stray capacitance may be too large.  I haven't tried it, though, so it 
might work with some transformers.


For years, we've been winding our transformers wrong. The windings 
should be on opposite sides of the core, so that capacitive coupling is 
minimized, NOT laying on top of one another. In a ferrite materialthat 
is SUITABLE for use as a transformer, the mu is high enough that a VERY 
high fraction of the flux in  toroid is contained within the core, with 
very little leakage flux. Windings that lay on top of each other 
maximize capacitive coupling, and thus maximize common mode current. 
Windings on opposite sides of the core minimize common mode current.


Ferrites are semiconductors, so they act as a dielectric. When we place 
windings on opposite sides of a core, we maximize magnetic coupling and 
minimize capacitive coupling, which is from one winding to the core and 
from the core to the other winding. That capacitance is VERY small if 
the windings are widely spaced.


73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] PTT switch for K3

[DaleJ]

I use this footswitch



It is the Ames model 5501

I’ve seen them on Ebay also.  Very sturdy.  

Dale, K9VUJ


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