Re: [Elecraft] KX3/PX3 Keyboards

[David Christ]

I did find this.  Not new but maybe a start.

David K0LUM


"The list you speak of is a document that I am working on right now that lists 
the keyboard makes and models that have been tested with the Elecraft PX3.   
This information is coming from customers and myself.   Until I finish adding 
keyboards to the list and publishing it on the Elecraft website, here is a 
temporary link to my current list: 
px3_keyboard_list_A2.pdf 
https://elecraft.egnyte.com/dl/uxe0dNf0F2 


73, 

Paul “



> On May 1, 2019, at 10:05 PM, Denis Dimick  wrote:
> 
> Does anyone have a working URL for the Elecraft Recommended Keyboards to be
> used with the PX3?
> 
> I searched through the mailing list, and only found a dead link for this.
> 
> Denis
> KC6AUP

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[Elecraft] Configuration file?

[Rich]

Are the values of TXGN LP/HP saved as a part of the Configuration file?

And if so would it load the old numbers for TXGN LP/HP?

Hence if you load an old Config file should you rerun the TX Gain 
calibration?


I know I could just try this, but thought it would be wise to ask first.

Rich

K3RWN


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[Elecraft] KX3/PX3 Keyboards

[Denis Dimick]

Does anyone have a working URL for the Elecraft Recommended Keyboards to be
used with the PX3?

I searched through the mailing list, and only found a dead link for this.

Denis
KC6AUP


--
There is no future until we settle our past...
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[Elecraft] KFL3A-400 vs. KFL3C-400

[hg chapoton]

What's the difference?

greg/na8v
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[Elecraft] no speaker audio

[jack]

Just turned on K3. No audio. It was set to FT8 so I called CQ. Can hear nothing 
but worked two stations?

Where is the audio going if not to the speakers?

Jack AK7O

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy load

[Don Wilhelm]

All,

Every ham should have a dummy load capable of the maximum power output 
of the amplifier IMHO.


The "Cantenna" serves well for the purpose of checking the amplifier 
operation and determining if a problem observed is the result of 
"RF-in-the-shack" or an amplifier problem.


A precision 50 ohm load is not required for those purposes.

If you intend to do calibration operations, then the "Cantenna" is 
"iffy" unless you can be certain it is 50 ohms non-reactive (check with 
an antenna analyzer at the frequency of interest).


If you need to do calibrations and make measurements of actual RF 
voltages, then you do need a known 50 ohm non-reative dummy load, and 
the "cantenna" types likely do not 'hack it'.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/1/2019 2:32 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX wrote:
Those gallon bucket dummy loads, often referred to as "Cantenna" loads, 
are inexpensive and generally work OK to a limit.  They do have specific 
power limitations vs. time such as 1 minute at 1KW.   Also, they may not 
be 50 ohms.   Yes, the label says 50 ohms, but is it?   All 3 of mine 
measure differently.  One as high as 68 ohms.   And they change 
impedance as they heat.   I've purchased all of mine new and two are now 
quite old.  The 3rd one is 3 years old and has migrated up a few 
ohms.    Beware of hamfest bargains unless you know what you are buying.


On the other hand and for many more , the loads made by Bird and 
Celwave and other commercial loads are more reliable and accurate.  They 
also cost a lot more money.   And even with these, beware of hamfest 
bargains unless you know what you are buying.


Here is a link to the company I've dealt with for Bird products. 
https://www.nm3e.com/loadSampler.htm#LoadSampler



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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and GPSDO?

[Frank O'Donnell]

Thanks, Don. For now I'll stick with plan B (GPSDO inputs to signal 
generator, the output of which is compared in Spectrum Lab to the signal 
under study delivered by the KX3). At least until I can save up for a K3S.


73,

Frank K6FOD


On 5/1/19 4:55 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

There is no native capability for that in either the KX2 or KX3.

Most anything is possible, but it would take some design and 
engineering by the KX3 user to add GPSDO input capability.


If you do not have those design and engineering skills, I suggest you 
don't try.


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LO GAIN FAULT

[Ed gilliland]

Okay Eric, thanks.

On 5/1/2019 17:31, Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:

Hi Ed,

I or one of our support engineers will contact you directly after we 
review the config file you sent us. Most likely by either late today 
or early tomorrow.


73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 5/1/2019 2:01 PM, Ed gilliland wrote:

Well I spoke too soon.

I still have a KPA1500 problem.  I am not getting the LO GAIN FAULT 
and I do have RF out but I cannot get 1500 watts output with 50 watts 
drive.


I connected the KPA1500 to a dummy load and loaded the the latest 
version of the KPA1500 utility.


With 20 watts drive the utility displays the following readings.

INPUT         20W

PA VOLTAGE        53V

PA CURRENT        19A

EFFICIENCY        21%

POWER OUTPUT      254W



With 50 watts drive the utility displays the following readings.


INPUT           50W

PA VOLTAGE      53V

PA CURRENT      34A

EFFICIENCY  40%

POWER OUTPUT    715W

Ed

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 and GPSDO?

[Don Wilhelm]

Frank,

There is no native capability for that in either the KX2 or KX3.

Most anything is possible, but it would take some design and engineering 
by the KX3 user to add GPSDO input capability.


If you do not have those design and engineering skills, I suggest you 
don't try.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/1/2019 5:04 PM, Frank O'Donnell wrote:

KX3 owner, fairly new ham, interested in frequency measurement ...

Am I right in thinking that a KX3 can *not* be slaved to a GPSDO?


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LO GAIN FAULT

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Hi Ed,

I or one of our support engineers will contact you directly after we review the 
config file you sent us. Most likely by either late today or early tomorrow.


73,
Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 5/1/2019 2:01 PM, Ed gilliland wrote:

Well I spoke too soon.

I still have a KPA1500 problem.  I am not getting the LO GAIN FAULT and I do 
have RF out but I cannot get 1500 watts output with 50 watts drive.


I connected the KPA1500 to a dummy load and loaded the the latest version of 
the KPA1500 utility.


With 20 watts drive the utility displays the following readings.

INPUT         20W

PA VOLTAGE        53V

PA CURRENT        19A

EFFICIENCY        21%

POWER OUTPUT      254W



With 50 watts drive the utility displays the following readings.


INPUT           50W

PA VOLTAGE      53V

PA CURRENT      34A

EFFICIENCY  40%

POWER OUTPUT    715W

Ed

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[Elecraft] KX3 and GPSDO?

[Frank O'Donnell]

KX3 owner, fairly new ham, interested in frequency measurement ...

Am I right in thinking that a KX3 can *not* be slaved to a GPSDO?

Thanks and 73,

Frank K6FOD


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[Elecraft] KPA1500 LO GAIN FAULT

[Ed gilliland]

Well I spoke too soon.

I still have a KPA1500 problem.  I am not getting the LO GAIN FAULT and 
I do have RF out but I cannot get 1500 watts output with 50 watts drive.


I connected the KPA1500 to a dummy load and loaded the the latest 
version of the KPA1500 utility.


With 20 watts drive the utility displays the following readings.

INPUT         20W

PA VOLTAGE        53V

PA CURRENT        19A

EFFICIENCY        21%

POWER OUTPUT      254W



With 50 watts drive the utility displays the following readings.


INPUT           50W

PA VOLTAGE      53V

PA CURRENT      34A

EFFICIENCY  40%

POWER OUTPUT    715W

Ed

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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Folks - We've drifted way off of the original thread. Let's close the thread 
now.
Eric
/elecraft.com/

On 5/1/2019 12:56 PM, Wes wrote:

+1

On 5/1/2019 11:19 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:
I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into 
the grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. 
At least 60 years so far this works...


Chuck Jack
KE9UW


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Bill Johnson]

Great advice.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ

https://wrj-tech.com/

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  On 
Behalf Of Ron Durie
Sent: Wednesday, May 1, 2019 11:08 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams 
definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.  
I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.

Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one large 
lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.  

What I do is, treat each connector center pin and threads with Caig DeOxit.
I do this on all connectors.  
Now I can put them on and off by hand and there is no Oxidation causing High 
Impedance RF connections.  

I do the same on my outside connectors BUT I do also apply 2 inch lbs. of 
torque.  
This keeps them from working loose with vibration and prevents oxidation.  

Ron Durie
WB4OOA
Elecraft K-Line
704-843-3681




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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Wes]

+1

On 5/1/2019 11:19 AM, hawley, charles j jr wrote:

I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into the 
grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. At 
least 60 years so far this works...

Chuck Jack
KE9UW


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[hawley, charles j jr]

I do mostly use good adapters to bnc, but really, as I tighten to snug, then 
wiggle, the barrel turns farther, each time I wiggle. I think the points nestle 
down in the grooves a surprising amount. Try it.

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 1, 2019, at 1:36 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> Yes but those are  Amphenol connectors.   Many "good looking" connectors  we 
> buy today have really poor plating and poor machining tolerances.   Thus all 
> "look alike" connectors aren't the same.   10 in a bag for $10..no 
> thank you.
> 
> 73
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
>> On 5/1/2019 1:32 PM, Michael Blake via Elecraft wrote:
>> I agree with your process Chuck. I have never read an Amphenol document that 
>> suggests anything other than hand tight.
>> 
>> Since the barrel is knurled and has no flats for a wrench it seems certain 
>> that a wrench was not what the designer had in mind.
>> 
>> 73 - Mike - K9JRI
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 2:19 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
>>> mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
>>> loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into 
>>> the grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. 
>>> At least 60 years so far this works...
>>> 
>>> Chuck Jack
>>> KE9UW
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone, cjack
>>> 
> On May 1, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
> Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
> definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
> I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.
 You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.
>  Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
> large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.
 I'd call that equipment junk.
 
 73, Jim K9YC
 
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[Elecraft] FS - K3

[Terry O]

Elecraft K-3
SN 00896
2.7 SSB & 400hz CW Filters
Transverter interface
100 Watt
KTCX03-1 High Stability Reference Oscillator
Operation & Construction Manuals and both USB and RS232 ports.
Excellent condition.
$1600.

Terry
W8EJO
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[Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Andy Durbin]

Some people who are actually interest in how a new KPA1500 could indicate a low 
gain fault keep opening these post to find they have absolutely nothing to do 
with the subject line.

How about an update on the low gain fault?  Tightening connectors has been done 
to death in other threads.

73,
Andy, k3wyc


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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Yes but those are  Amphenol connectors.   Many "good looking" 
connectors  we buy today have really poor plating and poor machining 
tolerances.   Thus all "look alike" connectors aren't the same.   10 in 
a bag for $10..no thank you.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/1/2019 1:32 PM, Michael Blake via Elecraft wrote:

I agree with your process Chuck. I have never read an Amphenol document that 
suggests anything other than hand tight.

Since the barrel is knurled and has no flats for a wrench it seems certain that 
a wrench was not what the designer had in mind.

73 - Mike - K9JRI




On May 1, 2019, at 2:19 PM, hawley, charles j jr  wrote:

I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into the 
grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. At 
least 60 years so far this works...

Chuck Jack
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack


On May 1, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:

On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.

You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.

  Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.

I'd call that equipment junk.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] Dummy load

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

Those gallon bucket dummy loads, often referred to as "Cantenna" loads, 
are inexpensive and generally work OK to a limit.  They do have specific 
power limitations vs. time such as 1 minute at 1KW.   Also, they may not 
be 50 ohms.   Yes, the label says 50 ohms, but is it?   All 3 of mine 
measure differently.  One as high as 68 ohms.   And they change 
impedance as they heat.   I've purchased all of mine new and two are now 
quite old.  The 3rd one is 3 years old and has migrated up a few 
ohms.    Beware of hamfest bargains unless you know what you are buying.


On the other hand and for many more , the loads made by Bird and 
Celwave and other commercial loads are more reliable and accurate.  They 
also cost a lot more money.   And even with these, beware of hamfest 
bargains unless you know what you are buying.


Here is a link to the company I've dealt with for Bird products. 
https://www.nm3e.com/loadSampler.htm#LoadSampler


Accurate and known value loads are necessary when measuring power.   
Most power meters and measurements are accurate at 50 ohms.  Use a 
different impedance load or one that has changed value and the power 
meter will become one of questionable accuracy.


73

Bob, K4TAX


On 5/1/2019 7:40 AM, Mark Goldberg wrote:

How much do you want to spend?

One of these Bird Termaline series, or similar is the top of the line, but
will cost you:

https://www.birdrf.com/Products/Test%20and%20Measurement/Loads/Coaxial-Terminations/500-watts/8201_500-Watt-Oil-Cooled-Terminations.aspx

I was lucky to find a DA412B/U military surplus 600W dummy (similar to Bird
8401) load at a hamfest for cheap.The good ones have N or better connectors
and Hams tend to avoid them. Adapters are not expensive if you want to
connect to PL259s, but I actually use Ns in most of my station. It will
take a continuous key down from my KPA500 with no problem.

73,

Mark


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:04 AM richard gilley 
wrote:


Hi,
Would like a recommendation for a 500 watt dummy load.

Thank you all
Richard  AD1G
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Michael Blake via Elecraft]

I agree with your process Chuck. I have never read an Amphenol document that 
suggests anything other than hand tight. 

Since the barrel is knurled and has no flats for a wrench it seems certain that 
a wrench was not what the designer had in mind. 

73 - Mike - K9JRI



> On May 1, 2019, at 2:19 PM, hawley, charles j jr  
> wrote:
> 
> I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
> mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
> loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into 
> the grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. 
> At least 60 years so far this works...
> 
> Chuck Jack 
> KE9UW
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, cjack 
> 
>>> On May 1, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
>>> 
>>> On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
>>> Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
>>> definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
>>> I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.
>> You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.
>>>  Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
>>> large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.
>> 
>> I'd call that equipment junk.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[hawley, charles j jr]

I don’t tighten pl259s with pliers. I wiggle the plug so it sets into the 
mating grooves while tightening it with my fingers and never had them get 
loose. I think that’s where folks go wrong...when the plug doesn’t set into the 
grooves. I almost need pliers to remove the plug when disconnecting it. At 
least 60 years so far this works...

Chuck Jack 
KE9UW

Sent from my iPhone, cjack 

> On May 1, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
>> On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:
>> Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
>> definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
>> I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.
> You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.
>>   Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
>> large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.
> 
> I'd call that equipment junk.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Jim Brown]

On 5/1/2019 9:08 AM, Ron Durie wrote:

Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.
I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.

You may like that, but mother nature likes them tight. And she always wins.

   Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.


I'd call that equipment junk.

73, Jim K9YC

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment Issue

[John Wingard]

Hi Dave,

Don and I have had several exchanges off list, so let me bring you up to
speed. In addition to the low VFO frequencies, I had noticed some
instability in the frequencies as displayed. Don suggested that I insert a
10-15pf cap between the source of the Q19 FET and ground. I did that late
last night and not only did that clear up the frequency instability, but
now my VFO frequencies are up about where they are supposed to be (8912 at
4000 and 12013 at 7100). I don't know if adding the cap did all of that or
perhaps the process of reflowing the connection on the source pad of the
FET straightened things out. So now I'm back to the original problem of the
8.37 V at R30 which has not changed. Don also wanted me to order two J310
FET from Elecraft, but in light of this latest finding I was waiting to see
if he still wanted me to do that.

73 de John WB4GLJ

On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 9:03 AM Dave Van Wallaghen  wrote:

> Hi John,
>
> I just got back in town and I know I'm late into this. I see Don is
> stepping you through some things as well. Here are a couple of things I
> was
> thinking:
>
> Since you have a VFO output although low in frequency,  I think because
> the
> voltage at pin 7 of U6 is so high it is driving the VFO circuit low in
> frequency. 8.37v seems to me to be the 8v rail in that circuit and since
> you can't really move that voltage on U6 P7, I might suspect a short
> between U6 P7 and P8 or at least a short between U6 P7 and the 8v rail.
>
> Just something else to look at...
>
> BTW - Don or I would be the guy to reply from support if you asked
> something there. So I just replied to the list so we can keep everything
> in
> a single thread.
>
> 73,
> Dave, W8FGU
>
> On April 30, 2019 15:49:42 John Wingard  wrote:
>
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > No problem on the delay. OK, after removing 1 turn from T5, the freq. at
> > TP1 (at 4000) is now 8535.14, so it did come up from the previous value,
> > but clearly not enough. I have 4.19 V on pin 5 of U6 and I have 4.21 V on
> > pin 13 of U4.
> >
> > I wasn't sure of your schedule so I also put in a support request to
> > Elecraft but have not received a reply as of yet. Hopefully between your
> > help and their help I can get this resolved.
> >
> > 73 de John, WB4GLJ
> >
> > On Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 2:48 PM Don Wilhelm 
> wrote:
> >
> >> John,
> >>
> >> Where did the  TP1  frequency go after you removed a turn?
> >>
> >> It is possible that the VFO frequency is not getting back to U4 pin 4 --
> >> the signal goes from U3 pin 6 thru C62 and then to U4.
> >>
> >> Did we verify that U6 pin 5 is near 4 volts?  What is the voltage at U4
> >> pin 13?
> >>
> >> Sorry to go over things, but I just returned from a few days away and my
> >> memory is not yet focused.
> >>
> >> 73,,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >> On 4/28/2019 6:00 PM, John Wingard wrote:
> >> > Don,
> >> >
> >> > Finally got back to the K2 this afternoon. I have confirmed that T5 is
> >> > on the yellow core, with 16 turns through the center on the red and 4
> >> > turns on the green. I mentioned earlier that I got all the toroids
> >> > from the Toroid Guy, so I felt confident that it was correctly wound.
> >> > I checked all the relay pins on K13, K14, and K15 and did not see any
> >> > solder bridges on any of them. Next, I pulled T5 and removed one turn
> >> > and re-installed. Unfortunately, nothing has changed. I'm still
> >> > getting that same 8.37 V at R30. Incidentally, I'm getting the 8.37 V
> >> > on either side of R30. Is that normal? I can also pull T5 and wind a
> >> > new one with the parts that came with the kit if you think that might
> >> > help, but something tells me that the problem lies elsewhere. I also
> >> > thought about pulling C72 and replacing it with another one, but
> >> > unfortunately there was only one of that value in the kit and I don't
> >> > have anything like it it my parts stash. Any new thoughts?
> >> >
> >> > de John, WB4GLJ
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> > On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 6:00 PM Don Wilhelm  >> > > wrote:
> >> >
> >> > John,
> >> >
> >> > Both frequencies are too low.
> >> > You have either too much capacitance or too much inductance in the
> >> > VFO.
> >> > Count the number of times the red wire goes through the center of
> >> > the T5
> >> > core - it should be 16.
> >> >
> >> > Check relays K13, K14 and K15 for solder bridges.
> >> >
> >> > Make sure the core of T5 is yellow.
> >> > You might have to try removing a turn from T5 if you can find no
> >> > other
> >> > cause - there have been a few K2s in the long past where the
> >> > permeability if the T5 core was higher than expected, and
> removing 1
> >> > turn from T5 corrected things - I have not seen that recently, but
> >> > I do
> >> > mention it 'just in case'.
> >> >
> >> > If all else fails, you may have to "wind your way" through the
> relay
> >> > connections for the VFO Range Select 

[Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[Ron Durie]

Tightening inside PL259's with pliers is not desirable, because each Hams
definition of "SNUG" occurs at different Torque levels.  
I want to use my hands to screw them on and off.

Also, when you have SO239 chassis mounted "Round" connectors (using one
large lock washer), then pliers will loosen them every time.  

What I do is, treat each connector center pin and threads with Caig DeOxit.
I do this on all connectors.  
Now I can put them on and off by hand and there is no Oxidation causing High
Impedance RF connections.  

I do the same on my outside connectors BUT I do also apply 2 inch lbs. of
torque.  
This keeps them from working loose with vibration and prevents oxidation.  

Ron Durie
WB4OOA
Elecraft K-Line
704-843-3681




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 VCO Alignment Issue

[Dave Van Wallaghen]

Hi John,

I just got back in town and I know I'm late into this. I see Don is 
stepping you through some things as well. Here are a couple of things I was 
thinking:


Since you have a VFO output although low in frequency,  I think because the 
voltage at pin 7 of U6 is so high it is driving the VFO circuit low in 
frequency. 8.37v seems to me to be the 8v rail in that circuit and since 
you can't really move that voltage on U6 P7, I might suspect a short 
between U6 P7 and P8 or at least a short between U6 P7 and the 8v rail.


Just something else to look at...

BTW - Don or I would be the guy to reply from support if you asked 
something there. So I just replied to the list so we can keep everything in 
a single thread.


73,
Dave, W8FGU

On April 30, 2019 15:49:42 John Wingard  wrote:


Hi Don,

No problem on the delay. OK, after removing 1 turn from T5, the freq. at
TP1 (at 4000) is now 8535.14, so it did come up from the previous value,
but clearly not enough. I have 4.19 V on pin 5 of U6 and I have 4.21 V on
pin 13 of U4.

I wasn't sure of your schedule so I also put in a support request to
Elecraft but have not received a reply as of yet. Hopefully between your
help and their help I can get this resolved.

73 de John, WB4GLJ

On Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 2:48 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:


John,

Where did the  TP1  frequency go after you removed a turn?

It is possible that the VFO frequency is not getting back to U4 pin 4 --
the signal goes from U3 pin 6 thru C62 and then to U4.

Did we verify that U6 pin 5 is near 4 volts?  What is the voltage at U4
pin 13?

Sorry to go over things, but I just returned from a few days away and my
memory is not yet focused.

73,,
Don W3FPR

On 4/28/2019 6:00 PM, John Wingard wrote:
> Don,
>
> Finally got back to the K2 this afternoon. I have confirmed that T5 is
> on the yellow core, with 16 turns through the center on the red and 4
> turns on the green. I mentioned earlier that I got all the toroids
> from the Toroid Guy, so I felt confident that it was correctly wound.
> I checked all the relay pins on K13, K14, and K15 and did not see any
> solder bridges on any of them. Next, I pulled T5 and removed one turn
> and re-installed. Unfortunately, nothing has changed. I'm still
> getting that same 8.37 V at R30. Incidentally, I'm getting the 8.37 V
> on either side of R30. Is that normal? I can also pull T5 and wind a
> new one with the parts that came with the kit if you think that might
> help, but something tells me that the problem lies elsewhere. I also
> thought about pulling C72 and replacing it with another one, but
> unfortunately there was only one of that value in the kit and I don't
> have anything like it it my parts stash. Any new thoughts?
>
> de John, WB4GLJ
>
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 6:00 PM Don Wilhelm  > wrote:
>
> John,
>
> Both frequencies are too low.
> You have either too much capacitance or too much inductance in the
> VFO.
> Count the number of times the red wire goes through the center of
> the T5
> core - it should be 16.
>
> Check relays K13, K14 and K15 for solder bridges.
>
> Make sure the core of T5 is yellow.
> You might have to try removing a turn from T5 if you can find no
> other
> cause - there have been a few K2s in the long past where the
> permeability if the T5 core was higher than expected, and removing 1
> turn from T5 corrected things - I have not seen that recently, but
> I do
> mention it 'just in case'.
>
> If all else fails, you may have to "wind your way" through the relay
> connections for the VFO Range Select area using the Relay Table on
> the
> Schematic Key page as your guide for the paths through the relays.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/27/2019 5:37 PM, John Wingard wrote:
> > Hi Don,
> >
> > Thanks for the quick response. I did check C72 again. It is a 271
> > value. I then spread the red turns on T5 as far as I could. I'd say
> > they cover about 90+% of the toroid. I put the L30 slug at
> mid-point
> > of travel and measured voltage at R30 and it is still right at 8.37
> > V.  While there I checked the frequency at TP1 and it was 8247.90,
> > which is considerably lower than the 8913 that you expected.
> >
> > Next I went up to 7100 and measured the voltage at R30. Still
> right at
> > 8.37 V, no change. Frequency at TP1 @ 7100 was 11558.11.
> >
> > So, it appears that the frequency at 4000 is not within the
> expected
> > range, and likely not at 7100 as well. Hope this tells you
> something
> > because I'm stumped.
> > I've got some plans for this evening so I may not get back on it
> until
> > tomorrow afternoon, but if you've got any more things for me to
> try I
> > will do them then.
> >
> > John, WB4GLJ
> >
> > On Sat, Apr 27, 2019 at 1:57 PM Don Wilhelm
> 

Re: [Elecraft] Dummy load

[Mark Goldberg]

How much do you want to spend?

One of these Bird Termaline series, or similar is the top of the line, but
will cost you:

https://www.birdrf.com/Products/Test%20and%20Measurement/Loads/Coaxial-Terminations/500-watts/8201_500-Watt-Oil-Cooled-Terminations.aspx

I was lucky to find a DA412B/U military surplus 600W dummy (similar to Bird
8401) load at a hamfest for cheap.The good ones have N or better connectors
and Hams tend to avoid them. Adapters are not expensive if you want to
connect to PL259s, but I actually use Ns in most of my station. It will
take a continuous key down from my KPA500 with no problem.

73,

Mark


On Wed, May 1, 2019 at 5:04 AM richard gilley 
wrote:

> Hi,
> Would like a recommendation for a 500 watt dummy load.
>
> Thank you all
> Richard  AD1G
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[Elecraft] Dummy load

[richard gilley]

Hi,
Would like a recommendation for a 500 watt dummy load.

Thank you all
Richard  AD1G
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA 500 HV Problem.

[elecraft]

I recently had the same error on my kpa500 recently. Investigation revealed
the PSU board multiplier could produce 210V OFF LOAD with the PSU>LPF jumper
disconnected but only 60v when the jumper was connected. Simulating the pin
diode current consumption with a resistor also produced the same result.
Turned out that R16 which should have been 100 ohm was now 1.2Mohm.
Replacing it fixed that problem

While talking to elecraft support it transpired that there was an upgrade
kit (E850607) that replaces the Q5 FET on the LPF board with a transistor
(as usual no reference could be found to it on the elecraft web site!). This
upgrade has also now been done

Dave
Ww2r

Subject: [Elecraft] Fw: KPA 500 HV Problem.
Message-ID: <931749743.2948576.1556653953...@mail.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 

   - Forwarded Message - From: Mike Streeter To:
elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: ?Tuesday?, ?April?
?30?, ?2019? ?02?:?50?:?12? ?PM? ?CDTSubject: KPA 500 HV Problem.
 My KPA 500 has been running ok for several years on 120 Volts. Today I
turned it off on the back , unplugged it and opened the top because I
thought I might need to change the voltage tap. I did not need to change it.
I replaced the top cover, plugged it in and turned it on at the back. All
ok, but when I turned it on with the front panel button the HV reads .1 in
standby. If I tap OPER it shows a hard fault and "270V error" .The Manual
says this is a 270V supply failure and to recycle the mains power KPA 500
after it is corrected. I tried recycling the power but still faults. I don't
have any 270V power from the mains, if I did it would be 240ish, not 270.
The fuse block on the back is set to 115V.Any advice would be welcome.Mike,
WM5DX.
?  


---
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Re: [Elecraft] KPA1500 LOW GAIN FAULT

[David Wilcox via Elecraft]

Just an interesting aside.

Last night at the radio club meeting the guys were checking out a Yaesu 
controller box that will operate the az/el rotor for an ARISS contact this June 
from our local library.  No one could get it to work until someone brought in 
another connecting cable (I think it was a db 9 pin USB cable).  Voila!  It 
works.  

Just lurking on the Elecraft site I see many problems are connected to the 
incorrect cable or a faulty cable. 

Take away:  don’t throw away those cables you have been collecting over the 
years.  I have fixed a few problems over the years by trying a different cable.

David J. Wilcox K8WPE’s iPad

> On Apr 30, 2019, at 7:35 PM, Gwen Patton  wrote:
> 
> I don't know if you're talking about what I do, Bob, but I guess I should
> have said that I do that with the outdoor connectors, where they might
> encounter weather. Indoor connectors are just snugged down tight enough
> that they don't wiggle loose, since I disconnect them whenever lightning is
> in the area.
> 
> Gwen, NG3P
> 
> On Tue, Apr 30, 2019 at 7:18 PM Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> wrote:
> 
>> A good approach for those PL-259 connectors outside or exposed to the
>> weather.   For those inside, that's a might bit aggressive. I just
>> prefer to snug them tight, a bit more than hand tight, using some small
>> channel lock pliers.
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> Bob, K4TAX
>> 
>>> On 4/30/2019 5:54 PM, Gwen Patton wrote:
>>> I started using a corrosion-inhibiting lube on my PL-259s, and
>> religiously
>>> sealing them with Coax-Seal. I tighten them very tightly as well. Since I
>>> started doing that, I have no odd failures or intermittent connections in
>>> my feedlines.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Gwen, NG3P
>>> 
>> 
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> 
> 
> -- 
> 
> -+-+-+-+-
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> http://quarktime.net
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