[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement

[kevinr]

Good Evening,

   It was a good week for mushrooms.  Cool nights, cool, sunny days.  
Many large, red amanita popping up.  A large group of sunspots popped up 
too.  Solar activity has been higher over the last few weeks.  SFU was 
at 85, today it's at 80.  There were some flares but none directed at 
earth.  The noise level should be like last week.  However, the time 
changes this week for those of us cursed by Ben Franklin.  Please notice 
the listed times. Depending on conditions either or both times may 
change.  One never can tell.


Please join us tomorrow on:

14050 kHz at 2200z Sunday  (2 PM PST Sunday)
 7047 kHz at 0045z Monday  (4:45 PM PST Sunday)

73,

   Kevin. KD5ONS

-


"/Then, during the Third Reconciliation of the Last of the Meketrex 
Supplicants, they chose a new form for him, that of a giant Sloar! Many 
Shubs and Zuuls knew what it was to be roasted in the depths of a Sloar 
that day, I can tell you!/"


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Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR on 40

[David Herring]

If there is ever any question about where to place ferrites, I’ll say in 
general, put the ferrites at both ends of the coax (unless its a really short 
run). 

Some may argue that that is overkill. While there are always exceptional 
circumstances, I would in general respectfully disagree with them if they did. 
While the benefits of placing them at the feed point are well documented, I 
have found that replicating the ferrites at the other end of the coax generally 
reduces noise in the receiver, making it possible to hear and thus work more 
stations… ;-) 

It would also be part of the solution to rf in the shack, provided that the 
ferrites provide enough choking impedance. 5000 ohms at the frequencies in 
question would likely do, but referring to K9YC’s papers for the specifics is 
advised.

Ferrites at both ends, along with proper bounding and grounding of the whole 
station a la K9YC has always worked well for me. 

73,
David - N5DCH



> On Oct 31, 2020, at 7:07 PM, David Olean  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Mike,
> 
> I would put the ferrite at the end of the coax before it goes into the rig if 
> there were rf coming down the coax. Common mode energy can and will get on 
> the outside of the coax. I am not an expert on this, but I would expect that 
> any problem that would cause a transmitter to misbehave would  involve strong 
> levels most likely encountered near the antenna where the fields could be 
> high.   Of all the folks that have used that 5 element six meter yagi, (me 
> included) No one has ever had a stray RF problem. Running the coax 
> perpendicular to the elements and tied down to the boom is all that is needed 
> to keep things quiet.  I am at a loss to explain any other outcome.
> 
> I suppose there could be a fault in the balun area, but I would think that 
> the SWR would climb well above 1:1 in that case.
> 
> Dave K1WHS
> 
> On 10/31/2020 11:13 AM, M Cresap wrote:
>> Dave
>> 
>> So where is the optimum place to place the ferrites for this antenna if you 
>> have a problem like Alan described?
>> 
>> Does the near field extend roughly to half the stacking distance of that 
>> antenna (i.e. 6 feet or so), making that the best place for the ferrites?
>> 
>> Does a mostly vertical coax passing through the near field of a horizontally 
>> polarized antenna (i.e. an antenna side mounted to a tower) need ferrites?
>> 
>> Do you need to decouple ALL of the rest of your coaxes and control lines at 
>> the lower near field edge of that antenna (or at some other point)? I have 
>> heard that argument (decouple everything) made to improve performance of 
>> inverted L antennas on 160 meters located near a tower.
>> 
>> 73, Mike, W3IP
>> 
>> On Saturday, October 31, 2020, 10:04:48 AM EDT, David Olean 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hello Alan
>> 
>> That was my antenna design. It has a teflon coax 1/2 wave balun that
>> kills RF on the shield side of the coax, but there is not much you can
>> do about near field energy getting picked up by the outside of the coax
>> due to radiation.  It is best to tape the coax down snugly along the
>> boom and masting etc.  Still, it does not hurt to add more RF chokes to
>> any antenna! It is pretty easy for RF energy to get impressed on the
>> outside of the coax in any typical installation.  The balun at the
>> antenna only keeps the energy from the coax center conductor from going
>> to the outside of the coax at the feedpoint.
>> 
>> The way I check for decoupling effectiveness is to match the antenna
>> really well, and then run your hand along the outside of the feedline
>> near the feed. While looking at the screen of a network analyzer, you
>> can see little perturbations in the return loss 20 or 30 dB down if
>> there is RF leaking to the outside of the feedline. This is a
>> qualitative test and you can estimate the bandwidth of the decoupling
>> network. You will see larger return loss change amounts away from the
>> resonant frequency of the decoupling element.  This won't apply to
>> ferrites, as they can be broadband, but with a quarter wave choke, or
>> similar, you can definitely see the effect.
>> 
>> 73
>> 
>> Dave K1WHS
>> 
>> On 10/31/2020 5:39 AM, N3ALN wrote:
>> 
>> > Hum, I was getting this HI CUR error only with my Directive Systems 6 Meter
>> > antenna (DS50-5) that has a 1:1 SWR I hope they know antenna design? Maybe
>> > not? The toroids fixed my issue. I just love how some of the forum or so
>> > judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
>> > __
>> > Elecraft mailing list
>> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net  
>> > >
>> >
>> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net 
>> > 

Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR on 40

[David Olean]

Hi Mike,

I would put the ferrite at the end of the coax before it goes into the 
rig if there were rf coming down the coax. Common mode energy can and 
will get on the outside of the coax. I am not an expert on this, but I 
would expect that any problem that would cause a transmitter to 
misbehave would  involve strong levels most likely encountered near the 
antenna where the fields could be high.   Of all the folks that have 
used that 5 element six meter yagi, (me included) No one has ever had a 
stray RF problem. Running the coax perpendicular to the elements and 
tied down to the boom is all that is needed to keep things quiet.  I am 
at a loss to explain any other outcome.


I suppose there could be a fault in the balun area, but I would think 
that the SWR would climb well above 1:1 in that case.


Dave K1WHS

On 10/31/2020 11:13 AM, M Cresap wrote:

Dave

So where is the optimum place to place the ferrites for this antenna 
if you have a problem like Alan described?


Does the near field extend roughly to half the stacking distance of 
that antenna (i.e. 6 feet or so), making that the best place for the 
ferrites?


Does a mostly vertical coax passing through the near field of a 
horizontally polarized antenna (i.e. an antenna side mounted to a 
tower) need ferrites?


Do you need to decouple ALL of the rest of your coaxes and control 
lines at the lower near field edge of that antenna (or at some other 
point)? I have heard that argument (decouple everything) made to 
improve performance of inverted L antennas on 160 meters located near 
a tower.


73, Mike, W3IP

On Saturday, October 31, 2020, 10:04:48 AM EDT, David Olean 
 wrote:



Hello Alan

That was my antenna design. It has a teflon coax 1/2 wave balun that
kills RF on the shield side of the coax, but there is not much you can
do about near field energy getting picked up by the outside of the coax
due to radiation.  It is best to tape the coax down snugly along the
boom and masting etc.  Still, it does not hurt to add more RF chokes to
any antenna! It is pretty easy for RF energy to get impressed on the
outside of the coax in any typical installation.  The balun at the
antenna only keeps the energy from the coax center conductor from going
to the outside of the coax at the feedpoint.

The way I check for decoupling effectiveness is to match the antenna
really well, and then run your hand along the outside of the feedline
near the feed. While looking at the screen of a network analyzer, you
can see little perturbations in the return loss 20 or 30 dB down if
there is RF leaking to the outside of the feedline. This is a
qualitative test and you can estimate the bandwidth of the decoupling
network. You will see larger return loss change amounts away from the
resonant frequency of the decoupling element.  This won't apply to
ferrites, as they can be broadband, but with a quarter wave choke, or
similar, you can definitely see the effect.

73

Dave K1WHS

On 10/31/2020 5:39 AM, N3ALN wrote:

> Hum, I was getting this HI CUR error only with my Directive Systems 
6 Meter
> antenna (DS50-5) that has a 1:1 SWR I hope they know antenna design? 
Maybe

> not? The toroids fixed my issue. I just love how some of the forum or so
> judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
> __
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to k1...@metrocast.net 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft K2 hum on CW

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

First try the VCOSHLDKT from Elecraft.  See my reflector post at 12:37 
today.


Alternately, move anything containing a transformer 2 feet or more away 
from the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/30/2020 9:11 PM, DaveVK wrote:


Any suggestions to clean the CW transmission up would be appreciated.  The
radio is not suitable for operation at present with the modulation on the CW
transmission.


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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas and Output Power - KPA-1500

[David Smith]

Have been reading all the threads on this issue is you (and others) are right 
on with the issue.  I operate contests here (both cw and ssb) and have many 
multiple antennas for the same band.  

What I  have dome is train the AL1500 ATU for the main antenna I will probably 
use on that band, and unfortunately (the cost) I purchased a Palstar ATU for a 
new JK 403 I put up and trained it for that antenna and when I switch to the 
JK403.  I turn off the AL1500 ATU and switch over to the Palstar and visa versa.
This is done for the other bands/antennas also.  I know it’s a pain (and an 
expense) but it works for me.

73  David  ND4Y

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

From: Rick Bates, NK7I
Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2020 2:46 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Antennas and Output Power - KPA-1500

T

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Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR on 40

[Jim Brown]

On 10/31/2020 2:39 AM, N3ALN wrote:

I just love how some of the forum or so
judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.


NOT judgemental, but an attempt by those of us who understand how stuff 
actually works to share that with others (the several thousand hams who 
read this and other email reflectors) so that false ideas and solutions 
are less likely to be accepted and propagated.


Anyone who doesn't want to learn is welcome to use their delete key on 
my posts.


73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas and Output Power - KPA-1500

[Rick Bates, NK7I]

This happens due to heating of the finals (network); typically 1500 
watts when cold (15-25C in my shack), drops to 1400 watts once warmed up 
(50-60C).  One can either adjust as needed or just accept 1500 cold and 
the drop (much less than one dB); but of course one should pay attention 
in all cases, should the limit exceed the permitted levels.


True gain values should include the temp of the amp; it matters.

90% of the time, when I use the amp, I'll run <1200 watts out, even 
though there is already plenty of headroom in the amp.  It's rare that 
the few hundred more watts makes any real difference (but it's nice to 
have!).


Now that winter is starting (North Idaho), it also takes the chill off 
the shack!


73,
Rick NK7I


On 10/31/2020 10:34 AM, K8TE wrote:

I have also noted that after not using the KPA1500 for a "long time" which
could be 15-30 minutes, power output can exceed alarm settings (well over
1500 Watts).  And when used some more, the power output decreases to 1500
without any exciter adjustments.  This means the KPA1500 gain figure seems
to increase after "resting" and decreases with use.

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Re: [Elecraft] Antennas and Output Power - KPA-1500

[K8TE]

No.  This is not the solution for what Pete describes and for what I and
others also experience.  Switching antennas, even antenna ports, often gives
very different power output numbers for the same drive levels from the
K3/K3S, even when appropriate and acceptable tuning solutions are found.

Using an external antenna switch on a single KPA1500 antenna port can be
problematic with the KPA1500 in cases where different tuning solutions are
necessary for different antennas.  Currently, there is no means to tell the
KPA1500 to use a different solution other than "trial and error" which means
providing RF on the "new" antenna, allowing the KPA1500 to find the proper
(trained) solution, change to that solution, and proceed.  At full power,
this process can result in an alarm which disables the amplifier,
inconvenient in the heat of battle (contest).

I have also noted that after not using the KPA1500 for a "long time" which
could be 15-30 minutes, power output can exceed alarm settings (well over
1500 Watts).  And when used some more, the power output decreases to 1500
without any exciter adjustments.  This means the KPA1500 gain figure seems
to increase after "resting" and decreases with use.

"Perfect" antennas that are always 50 Ohms and non-reactive won't cause
these symptoms.  I hope someday to have those.

73, Bill, K8TE



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Hum seems to be sorted

[ke9uw]

I had that with a TenTec Omni when I placed the speaker/power supply next to
it 



-
Chuck, KE9UW
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 CW transmit hum

[Don Wilhelm]

You can cure that condition by installing the VCOSHLDMD from Elecraft. 
It adds a mu-metal shield around T5 so the transformer core is not 
modulated by the magnetic field from the power supply transformer.


If you do install that mod, first adjust the T5 turns spacing and then 
put the shield around T5 and make a final adjustment by moving the end 
turns of the red winding a bit closer together or further apart.


That last step is not mentioned in the instructions, but I have found it 
necessary.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/31/2020 12:06 PM, Louandzip via Elecraft wrote:

I got bad TX hum when I temporarily place my K2 on top of a 35A Astron power 
supply.  Seemed to be from the transformer's leaked magnetic field and went 
away if I lifted the K2 just an inch or two.    I'm sure I posted about it in 
the reflector, but that was pushing 20 years ago.  My call might have been 
different at the time.


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[Elecraft] K2 CW transmit hum

[Louandzip via Elecraft]

I got bad TX hum when I temporarily place my K2 on top of a 35A Astron power 
supply.  Seemed to be from the transformer's leaked magnetic field and went 
away if I lifted the K2 just an inch or two.    I'm sure I posted about it in 
the reflector, but that was pushing 20 years ago.  My call might have been 
different at the time. 

W7HV
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Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR on 40

[M Cresap via Elecraft]

 Dave
So where is the optimum place to place the ferrites for this antenna if you 
have a problem like Alan described? 

Does the near field extend roughly to half the stacking distance of that 
antenna (i.e. 6 feet or so), making that the best place for the ferrites? 

Does a mostly vertical coax passing through the near field of a horizontally 
polarized antenna (i.e. an antenna side mounted to a tower) need ferrites?

Do you need to decouple ALL of the rest of your coaxes and control lines at the 
lower near field edge of that antenna (or at some other point)? I have heard 
that argument (decouple everything) made to improve performance of inverted L 
antennas on 160 meters located near a tower.

73, Mike, W3IP

On Saturday, October 31, 2020, 10:04:48 AM EDT, David Olean 
 wrote:  
 
 Hello Alan

That was my antenna design. It has a teflon coax 1/2 wave balun that 
kills RF on the shield side of the coax, but there is not much you can 
do about near field energy getting picked up by the outside of the coax 
due to radiation.  It is best to tape the coax down snugly along the 
boom and masting etc.  Still, it does not hurt to add more RF chokes to 
any antenna! It is pretty easy for RF energy to get impressed on the 
outside of the coax in any typical installation.  The balun at the 
antenna only keeps the energy from the coax center conductor from going 
to the outside of the coax at the feedpoint.

The way I check for decoupling effectiveness is to match the antenna 
really well, and then run your hand along the outside of the feedline 
near the feed. While looking at the screen of a network analyzer, you 
can see little perturbations in the return loss 20 or 30 dB down if 
there is RF leaking to the outside of the feedline. This is a 
qualitative test and you can estimate the bandwidth of the decoupling 
network. You will see larger return loss change amounts away from the 
resonant frequency of the decoupling element.  This won't apply to 
ferrites, as they can be broadband, but with a quarter wave choke, or 
similar, you can definitely see the effect.

73

Dave K1WHS

On 10/31/2020 5:39 AM, N3ALN wrote:

> Hum, I was getting this HI CUR error only with my Directive Systems 6 Meter
> antenna (DS50-5) that has a 1:1 SWR I hope they know antenna design? Maybe
> not? The toroids fixed my issue. I just love how some of the forum or so
> judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.
>
>
>
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] KIO3B Main Board Repair

[Greg Beat]

Mike -

You can view the Schematic diagrams (6 pages) for the Elecraft KIO3B module.
https://ftp.elecraft.com/K3S/Manuals%20Downloads/E740323%20K3s%20Schematic%20Files.pdf
The KIO3B is a multi-function module, that includes these functions:
1. RF Board interface
2. Digital I/O interface
3. Audio I/O interface
4. USB, Codec, RS232
FTDI FT232R (USB), TI PCM2901 (CODEC), TUSB2036 (2/3 port USB hub)
5. Digital I/O
6. Audio I/O
==
It is NOT impossible to repair or troubleshoot (component-level), 
BUT it can be time consuming for the novice or weekend technician.
This is why Elecraft stated “economical” (their bench time is NOT Free).
—
Sage advice from my high school electronics instructor, WB9FUR (sk, 2016) has 
served me well : External event (ESD, Over-voltage, Op error) and I/O ports are 
major causes of module or circuit failures.  Electronic devices rarely “die” 
for no reason (assumes QA production of part).
—
“What functionality” has failed will narrow the circuit areas and components to 
examine.  IF you can “think thru” those observed symptoms, many failures can be 
pinpointed with a DVM to a few key components. 
SMT repair experience and tools reduces repair time.
—
This summer, I repaired an ESE ES-188 Master Clock ... that the reseller 
suspected was not working properly.  Visual and operations inspection:
* Not damage to tinned copper foil traces on PC board.
* Bulging 25V electrolytic caps (85° import brand) on DC filtering - replaced 
(105°)
* Multi-serial TTL level ports from microprocessor were inconsistent 
- replaced MAX233 (resolved one port)
- replaced 74LS04 and 74LS08 (resolved other ports)

I did not even pull out my DVM ... the secondary DC ripple was eliminated, and 
an external event (ESD?) likely entered thru serial port ... damaged the 3 ICs 
replaced.
Those 3 parts were closest to DC power bus and serial port entrance to PC board.

It’s been running on the bench, driving NTP and IRIG-B remote clock for past 3 
months ... no issues.  IF I were to resell, I would check with DVM & possibly 
scope.

greg, w9gb
===
Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2020 17:43:44 -0400
From: K4PI 
To: Elecraft Mail Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] KIO3B Main Board Repair

I have ended up with 2 bad KI03B boards E850645.
Both bad in the USB circuit.
I did some basic checks resistance wise they recommended, but found no problems.
Elecraft said chances of repair was slim and would not be economical to try.
I think all the other functions are okay (think they are still working okay if 
you come in via the serial port).
Seems a shame to toss them into the dumpster, but unless someone has had 
some experience of repairing them that may be the route.
Anyone ever attempted at repair of the USB circuit on these?? 

73 Mike K4PI
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Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR on 40

[David Olean]

Hello Alan

That was my antenna design. It has a teflon coax 1/2 wave balun that 
kills RF on the shield side of the coax, but there is not much you can 
do about near field energy getting picked up by the outside of the coax 
due to radiation.  It is best to tape the coax down snugly along the 
boom and masting etc.  Still, it does not hurt to add more RF chokes to 
any antenna! It is pretty easy for RF energy to get impressed on the 
outside of the coax in any typical installation.  The balun at the 
antenna only keeps the energy from the coax center conductor from going 
to the outside of the coax at the feedpoint.


The way I check for decoupling effectiveness is to match the antenna 
really well, and then run your hand along the outside of the feedline 
near the feed. While looking at the screen of a network analyzer, you 
can see little perturbations in the return loss 20 or 30 dB down if 
there is RF leaking to the outside of the feedline. This is a 
qualitative test and you can estimate the bandwidth of the decoupling 
network. You will see larger return loss change amounts away from the 
resonant frequency of the decoupling element.  This won't apply to 
ferrites, as they can be broadband, but with a quarter wave choke, or 
similar, you can definitely see the effect.


73

Dave K1WHS

On 10/31/2020 5:39 AM, N3ALN wrote:


Hum, I was getting this HI CUR error only with my Directive Systems 6 Meter
antenna (DS50-5) that has a 1:1 SWR I hope they know antenna design? Maybe
not? The toroids fixed my issue. I just love how some of the forum or so
judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill.



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Re: [Elecraft] Smoke detectors

[Bob N7WY via Elecraft]

Two comments –

The idea behind the 10 year life batteries in sealed detectors is that the 
battery and the sensor element both need to be retired at the 10 year point.  
It is not a good idea to put new batteries in any detector at around the 10 
year point as the sensor needs replacement, too.

We had 20 year old Firex smoke detectors.  Kidde acquired Firex and now makes 
replacements with 10 year lifetimes.  They are not plug and play for 2 reasons. 
 The Firex pigtail wired into the house does not mate with the Kidde detectors, 
and the plastic flange that mates to the electrical box is not compatible, 
either.  Kidde sells a plug adapter that IMO is too bulky behind their detector 
to readily fit into the electrical box.  So, plan to install a new mounting 
flange, remove the prior pigtail and install a new one.

Of course you may find obstacles I did not and this only applies to the brands 
discussed.

Bob R – N7WY

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[Elecraft] K3 wanted - UK

[John Lemay]

Hello all

I'm looking to buy a used K3 in the UK. Must be fully operational and must
include the USB rear connection. Not fussed about other options and would be
happy with 10w or 100w rig, with or without ATU. A K3S would also be
acceptable, if the price is affordable !

Please drop me a line off list, at j...@carltonhouse.eclipse.co.uk

Thanks

John G4ZTR (Colchester)




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Re: [Elecraft] Smoke detectors

[Lyn Norstad]

We have a 2-step solution to this continuing issue:

1) Install 10 year lithium ion batteries as Kent recommends, and
2) Remove kids.  All of them.

Done.

73
Lyn, W0LEN
EE  (Experienced Empty-nester)



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of K9ZTV
Sent: Friday, October 30, 2020 4:49 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Smoke detectors

For what it’s worth, the American Red Cross is recommending installation of 
units that have 10-year lithium ion batteries which are sealed and not 
replaceable.  History has shown that kids tend to remove the batteries for 
their toys and games.  

They also say the test button tests only the battery, not the 
combustion-products detection circuitry.  The circuitry in the older units 
(with replaceable batteries) proved to be effective only for five years.

Any detector older than five years should be thrown away and replaced with the 
new 10-year design.

73,

Kent  K9ZTV

> On Oct 30, 2020, at 3:01 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> The ones we have are stand-alone, running on a standard replaceable battery.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC

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[Elecraft] For Sale UK

[David Bondy]

I am thinning out my Elecraft collection and have the following items for sale. 
 I am in the UK.

KX1

KX1 Transceiver (Serial No. 00262)
KXAT1 ATU
KXB30 30m metre board giving coverage on 80m, 40m & 30m
KXPD1 Paddle
£400 + Postage at cost

KX2

KX2 Transceiver (S/N: 2590) with fitted ProAudio PAE-Kx22 Heatsink and cover + 
Long Rear Leg and Paddle Port Cover
KXBT2 Internal Battery

KXBC2 External Fast Charger
KXAT2 ATU
KX102 I/O Option
MH3 Mic + NoName Mic
£1,000 + Postage at cost

KXPA100
***
KXPA100 Linear
KXAT100 ATU
KXPACBL Cable Set (for KX3)
KX2ACL Additional KX2 Power Cable
KXUSB USB Cable
£1,000 + Postage at cost

Sundries
**
QRPWorks SideKar Plus (including compact wireless keyboard, Power Splitter, 
Serial Cable) £200
Pignology Piglet with Cables £85
Signalink USB Interface with KX Module Fitted and KX Cables £75
All plus Postage at cost

There are other odd bits and pieces which I will talk about to any potential 
buyers.

David G4NRT

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Re: [Elecraft] Smoke detectors

[David Wilcox via Elecraft]

I second the motion to replace ALL the older smoke detectors, not only in YOUR 
home BUT IN YOUR CHILDREN’S HOMES!  My daughters husband is not that bright and 
I replaced all their smoke detectors and monitor them when we visit.  They live 
in a 112 year old run down mansion (fire trap) with kids spread all over.  The 
new Kidde ones are sealed and no one can mess with them (Thank God!) and good 
for 10 years.

David J. Wilcox’s iPad

> On Oct 30, 2020, at 5:52 PM, K9ZTV  wrote:
> 
> For what it’s worth, the American Red Cross is recommending installation of 
> units that have 10-year lithium ion batteries which are sealed and not 
> replaceable.  History has shown that kids tend to remove the batteries for 
> their toys and games.  
> 
> They also say the test button tests only the battery, not the 
> combustion-products detection circuitry.  The circuitry in the older units 
> (with replaceable batteries) proved to be effective only for five years.
> 
> Any detector older than five years should be thrown away and replaced with 
> the new 10-year design.
> 
> 73,
> 
> Kent  K9ZTV
> 
>> On Oct 30, 2020, at 3:01 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
>> 
>> The ones we have are stand-alone, running on a standard replaceable battery.
>> 
>> 73, Jim K9YC
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] HI CUR on 40

[N3ALN]

Hum, I was getting this HI CUR error only with my Directive Systems 6 Meter
antenna (DS50-5) that has a 1:1 SWR I hope they know antenna design? Maybe
not? The toroids fixed my issue. I just love how some of the forum or so
judgmental, it is a only a freaking hobby, chill. 



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