Re: [Elecraft] KBPF3A switching frequencies and performance

[Russ Tobolic via Elecraft]

 Just an FYI, I found out what the problem is with my modified KBPF3.  I 
removed the added caps and signal levels returned to somewhat normal levels.  
Adding a cap to C2 didn't make sense and attenuated the signals. But Fig. 14 
shows adding a cap to C4.   Apparently the ham I bought this from used Rev. A1, 
June 24, 2015 instructions which have an error.  Figure 13 shows adding the 
0.1uF caps to C2, C3 and C6.  I downloaded Rev. A2 June 29, 2015 which 
correctly shows in fig. 13 to piggyback caps on C4, C3 and C6.  Problem solved!
Russ, N3CO
On Monday, April 19, 2021, 09:04:58 PM EDT, ab2tc  wrote:  
 
 Hi Russ,

Your response made *very* curious so I checked out my own K3S. I can confirm
the two switchover frequencies you mention (1700 and 3300kHz), but observe
at most a couple of dB change when crossing the boundaries. I use an
external panadapter (LP-PAN/NaP3 connected to IF-OUT) so I can easily see
the same stations and noise while tuning across the boundaries. On the
1700kHz boundary the signals are a couple, maybe 3dB stronger when below
1700kHz. So it sounds to me that the filters in your KBPF3A are not being
switched in when it is supposed to be used. The KBPF3 needs to be enabled
(set to "nor") in the configuration menu. Have you checked that?

Hmm, I neglected to carefully read the last part of your post. It sounds
like your KBPF3A might be working above 4210kHz so may be just the 2 lowest
bands are defective. If you look at the schematic you see that those two
bands use the same filter but with some components switched in and out by
another relay (K2). So that could narrow the problem down to one relay (K1)
not operating. Is this a *new* problem or has it been like this since you
got the K3 or installed the KBPF3A?

Knut - AB2TC


Elecraft mailing list wrote
> Hi Ben:
> You had me curious with your request.  I started to check my KBPF3
> (modified to the "A") and noticed something that now bothers me.  I tried
> going down from 160M and it appears that the switch over to the AM
> broadcast band occurs precisely at 1700,000  Kc.  When I tune to  1.69
> the relays click.  But the anomaly(?) I am seeing at the switchover point
> is a big drop in the signal level.  At my QTH during the daytime the
> nominal noise level at 1700.000 Kc is about S7.  When I switch to 1.69
> the noise level drops to S2.  At the high end the switchover occurs at
> 2109.999+ with a drop in the noise level from S9+10 to S3.  I don't use
> the K3 for listening to AMBCB but only in the case of checking my 160M 
> receiving loops with some stations high in the AM Band.  I checked on 80M
> and got similar results.  At the low side the switch occurred at 3299.999
> with a drop in the noise level from S5 to S2.  On the high side the
> switchover occurred at 4209.999+ but here the noise level increased from
> S4 to S6. I don't know if this helps you any on at least these 2 bands. 
> If I get the time I'll try to check the rest.  Now I'm bothered by the
> changes in signal levels at the switchover points (ignorance is bliss). 
>  I wonder if anyone else has ever noticed this or do I have an issue with
> my KBPF3?
> 
> Russ, N3CO
>    On Friday, April 16, 2021, 12:39:28 PM EDT, w4sc 

> w4sc@

>  wrote:  
>  
>  Looking for details of switch over frequencies and expected performance
> of the KBPF3A in its various bands, 
> 
> There is improvement in the BCB and below 500KHz with the KBPF3A enabled,
> however the other SW BCB bands I have tried are lacking.
> 
> Has anyone measured the performance of the KBPF3A?
> 
> Ben W4SC
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Don Wilhelm]

Erik,

Yes, using auto ranging on the DMM can cause false readings.  Try to set 
the fixed range a bit above the highest expected resistance for the best 
results.  It all depends on the voltage the DMM applies to the circuit.  
Too high a voltage can make ICs and transistors conduct causing a low 
reading.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 5:52 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

Hi Don,

Everything appears correct and in place, already used magnification to 
check, and individual resistors all seem to measure correctly.  I 
still think it's my multimeter in auto mode.  I went back and retried 
the initial test using manual ranging and if I set the range to 600K 
it shows a reasonable value.  I suspect the caps in the circuit are 
fooling it, will have to google that and see if there is an 
adjustment.  The second test still shows a bit high as well, but  if I 
measure from the *cathode* of D3 instead of the anode then I get a 
reasonable value as well; perhaps the difference in meter currents 
used for measurements is messing up due to the diode being in the 
circuit as the check is worded?


  Thanks and 73,
Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On May 24, 2021, at 15:32, Don Wilhelm > wrote:


Since that is the case, check the value of the resistors and check out 
the soldering under magnification.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 3:08 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

Hi Don,

Nope, D3 and D4 are correct, and the LEDs check out per the test...





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Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Erik Tkal]

Hi Don,

Everything appears correct and in place, already used magnification to check, 
and individual resistors all seem to measure correctly.  I still think it's my 
multimeter in auto mode.  I went back and retried the initial test using manual 
ranging and if I set the range to 600K it shows a reasonable value.  I suspect 
the caps in the circuit are fooling it, will have to google that and see if 
there is an adjustment.  The second test still shows a bit high as well, but  
if I measure from the *cathode* of D3 instead of the anode then I get a 
reasonable value as well; perhaps the difference in meter currents used for 
measurements is messing up due to the diode being in the circuit as the check 
is worded?

  Thanks and 73,
  Erik Tkal  -  W1QED



On May 24, 2021, at 15:32, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

Since that is the case, check the value of the resistors and check out the 
soldering under magnification.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 3:08 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:
> Hi Don,
> 
> Nope, D3 and D4 are correct, and the LEDs check out per the test...


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Re: [Elecraft] T1 Tuner Kit Control Board final check issues

[Don Wilhelm]

Since that is the case, check the value of the resistors and check out 
the soldering under magnification.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/24/2021 3:08 PM, Erik Tkal wrote:

Hi Don,

Nope, D3 and D4 are correct, and the LEDs check out per the test...


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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on 6M

[Tim Tucker]

If anyone needs the external 6m preamp for an original K3, I have one I
would part with for a reasonable price.

Tim,
AE6LX

On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 7:33 AM Linda M  wrote:

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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on 6M

[Linda M]

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Re: [Elecraft] Case for K4

[richard allen]

Hello ,

The important information for you. See the attachment to the email.

Password - as235ef

Regards
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 on 6M

[Ronnie Hull]

Thanks everyone!
 I Do have the the transverter interface in my upgraded K3

I was just curious!

Ron W5SUM 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 23, 2021, at 11:16 PM, Jim Brown  wrote:
> 
> On 5/23/2021 7:35 PM, Ronnie Hull wrote:
>> I have a K3 with every upgrade available. What are your opinions of such a 
>> K3 on 6M?
> 
> It's quite good with either the outboard PR6 preamp they sold, or the preamp 
> built into the transverter interface introduced with the K3S. When I got my 
> first K3 in 2008, the internal preamp was pretty stinko on 10M and 6M. I 
> already owned a GASFET preamp, so I used it at the RX Out - RX In patch 
> point, and it worked great from 12M up to 6M.
> 
> The preamp in the KX3 is also very good on 6M, making it a very good 
> backpacking rig.
> 
> 73, Jim K9YC
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