[Elecraft] KX1 For Sale

2020-05-14 Thread Burke Jones - N0HYD
I just posted my KX1 for sale on eBay.

http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2=5575378759=5338273189=_item=133411157223=psmain_vectorid=229466=902099=824=lg=1

Just thought I would put the word out if you or anyone you know is
interested!  Let me know if you have any questions.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
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[Elecraft] Computer connections??

2014-03-24 Thread Burke Jones
I am trying in vain to get my KX3 connected correctly to the computer with 
FLDigi 

I have the serial cable from AC1 to the serial port and the rig appears to 
interface with software. The frequency changes and I can click transmit and the 
radio goes into transmit. 

However, nothing shows on the waterfall and I am not sure anything is actually 
transmitting. 

Does anyone have the definitive guide to connecting the rest of the cables??

It looks like the phone and mic cables are where the problem is. 

I am just using the built in sound card, not PCI based. Could that be it?  
There is a mic jack and two speaker jacks on the computer. 

Help would be appreciated!

Burke Jones
Sent from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] Getting ready to order a K2 - which options

2012-09-13 Thread Burke Jones
I am getting ready to put in an order for a K2 kit.  I currently have the
KX1, which is my only rig.  I want something more substantial at home to
sit on the desktop and have fun with.

I am definitely getting the SSB option - mainly because I want to do some
of the digital modes.

I don't want to do the battery or internal tuner at this time (might make
good Christmas presents down the line).

What other options should I consider and why?

Burke Jones
N0HYD
http://www.N0HYD.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable Antennas (Is there an easy button?)

2012-05-08 Thread Burke Jones
Here is a good link for the EFHW which details the matching box that is
discussed in the video.  I just ordered some supplies today to build one
(or two) of these.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
KX1

On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 12:06 PM, N1EU n1eu.ba...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree that the EFHW is a good performer and it's a main player in my
 portable arsenal.  However, I give little to no credence in the
 comparison
 featured in that linked video.  There's no evidence that they're remotely
 aware of the azimuthal  pattern of the 135ft OCF on 15M.  Hint, it's NOT
 broadside.

 73,
 Barry N1EU



 stan levandowski wrote
 
  Tom, it's by no means a perfect antenna but it *does* perform quite well
  for me.
 
 
  After watching Stan Video last night I placed an order for a few
  T-106-2's to build the transformer...looks pretty straightforward and
  inexpensive. Tnx Stan
 
 
  On 5/7/2012 1:43 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:
  Enjoyed the video, Stan.  I may look into one of these.
 
 
 
  See my not perfect, but pretty darn good solution at  :
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWkpQ785Pjo
 
 
  73, Stan WB2LQF
 
 


 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Portable-Antennas-Is-there-an-easy-button-tp7533480p7539897.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable Antennas (Is there an easy button?)

2012-05-08 Thread Burke Jones
Forgot the link - sorry about that!

http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf

On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 1:11 PM, Burke Jones burkejo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Here is a good link for the EFHW which details the matching box that is
 discussed in the video.  I just ordered some supplies today to build one
 (or two) of these.

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 KX1


 On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 12:06 PM, N1EU n1eu.ba...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree that the EFHW is a good performer and it's a main player in my
 portable arsenal.  However, I give little to no credence in the
 comparison
 featured in that linked video.  There's no evidence that they're remotely
 aware of the azimuthal  pattern of the 135ft OCF on 15M.  Hint, it's NOT
 broadside.

 73,
 Barry N1EU



 stan levandowski wrote
 
  Tom, it's by no means a perfect antenna but it *does* perform quite well
  for me.
 
 
  After watching Stan Video last night I placed an order for a few
  T-106-2's to build the transformer...looks pretty straightforward and
  inexpensive. Tnx Stan
 
 
  On 5/7/2012 1:43 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:
  Enjoyed the video, Stan.  I may look into one of these.
 
 
 
  See my not perfect, but pretty darn good solution at  :
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWkpQ785Pjo
 
 
  73, Stan WB2LQF
 
 


 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Portable-Antennas-Is-there-an-easy-button-tp7533480p7539897.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] Portable Antennas (Is there an easy button?)

2012-05-08 Thread Burke Jones
One more question...

Where can I get one of the small ABS boxes like the group sells and is show
in the video?

Burke Jones
N0HYD
KX1

On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 1:12 PM, Burke Jones burkejo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Forgot the link - sorry about that!

 http://www.earchi.org/92011endfedfiles/Endfed6_40.pdf


 On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 1:11 PM, Burke Jones burkejo...@gmail.com wrote:

 Here is a good link for the EFHW which details the matching box that is
 discussed in the video.  I just ordered some supplies today to build one
 (or two) of these.

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 KX1


 On Tue, May 8, 2012 at 12:06 PM, N1EU n1eu.ba...@gmail.com wrote:

 I agree that the EFHW is a good performer and it's a main player in my
 portable arsenal.  However, I give little to no credence in the
 comparison
 featured in that linked video.  There's no evidence that they're remotely
 aware of the azimuthal  pattern of the 135ft OCF on 15M.  Hint, it's NOT
 broadside.

 73,
 Barry N1EU



 stan levandowski wrote
 
  Tom, it's by no means a perfect antenna but it *does* perform quite
 well
  for me.
 
 
  After watching Stan Video last night I placed an order for a few
  T-106-2's to build the transformer...looks pretty straightforward and
  inexpensive. Tnx Stan
 
 
  On 5/7/2012 1:43 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:
  Enjoyed the video, Stan.  I may look into one of these.
 
 
 
  See my not perfect, but pretty darn good solution at  :
  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uWkpQ785Pjo
 
 
  73, Stan WB2LQF
 
 


 --
 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Portable-Antennas-Is-there-an-easy-button-tp7533480p7539897.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
 __
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[Elecraft] KX1 + Tuner + Norcal Doublet

2011-06-03 Thread Burke Jones
I constructed a Norcal Doublet using some speaker wire.  It seems to
tune up fine on 20 meters using the internal KX1 tuner - but on 40
meters I could not get the SWR under 4.

Would a 4:1 balun help with this?

Any links on how to build a simple balun using an aircore and not a torroid?

Thanks a bunch!

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Olathe, KS
http://www.n0hyd.com
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[Elecraft] KX1 Filter Explanation for Dummies

2009-07-11 Thread Burke Jones
Okay, so now that I am actually using my KX-1, I need some help.  I am
really a newbie when it comes to this stuff.

Can someone please give me an explanation (at a basic level) of how you are
actually supposed to use the filter on the KX-1?

If I am listening to a signal, and then turn the filter, I seem to lose the
signal.  Is this because I am not tuned exactly to that signal?

Thanks for being patient, someday it will all make sense.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/
Olathe, KS
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Filter Explanation for Dummies

2009-07-11 Thread Burke Jones
Okay, that is exactly what I was looking for.  I might need to revist the
manual and the part about setting the sidetone frequency.  I can't remember
what I did.

Thanks!

Burke
http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/

On Sat, Jul 11, 2009 at 11:08 PM, Leigh L. Klotz, Jr WA5ZNU 
le...@wa5znu.org wrote:

 Burke,
 There are two issues:

 1. When you set the sidetone frequency in the KX1 menus, you are also
 choosing the offset at which you hear received signals.
 So if you set it to 600 Hz, you'll be right on frequency with the other
 station when the signal you hear is a 600 Hz tone.
 You can match this tone by ear by goign back to the menu to StP or StL
 (better since it doesn't accidently change StP) and listening for the same
 pitch, within about 10 Hz. Once you get on the same frequency, turning the
 filter down to about 1 Khz will cut out most of the QRM and QRN and will
 give you a pleasant listening experience.  If you're off frequency, the
 received signal will fall outside the filter passband and you'll be treating
 it as you would a QRM or off-frequency station, and it will be attentuated.

 2. If you turn the filter below 1 Khz, and more prominently, below 500 Hz,
 the center frequency of the filter itself shifts down a bit, so you may need
 to re-tune slightly to get the signal back to full strength.  Unfortunately,
 if you do this, you'll also be shifting your transmit frequency, so you can
 use the RIT feature of the KX1 just to shift the received frequency and
 leave your transmit frequency alone.  You probably won't need to do this
 unless you need to crank the filter way down, as in a contest, or with a
 very noisy band.  So you can safely ignore this for now and use the filter
 at about 1 Khz until you feel the need to learn more.

 Does this answer your question, or do you have a different issue that I've
 misunderstood?

 Leigh/WA5ZNU
 KX1 #712

  Okay, so now that I am actually using my KX-1, I need some help.  I am
 really a newbie when it comes to this stuff.

 Can someone please give me an explanation (at a basic level) of how you
 are
 actually supposed to use the filter on the KX-1?

 If I am listening to a signal, and then turn the filter, I seem to lose
 the
 signal.  Is this because I am not tuned exactly to that signal?

 Thanks for being patient, someday it will all make sense.

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/ http://n0hyd.com/
 Olathe, KS
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[Elecraft] First KX-1 Contacts!

2009-07-10 Thread Burke Jones
Okay, I am pumped and just had to share.  I finally finished up my Elecraft
KX-1 and internal tuner.  I headed to the park today at lunch and threw my
28 ft. wire up in the tree with a 16 ft. counterpoise.  I ran off the
internal battery pack.  I not been on the air for probably 12 years

I called CQ both times!  Keith - KB8FE  Darval - W7KNA - two much better
ops than I.  Thanks guys!

CW is VERY rusty - but I managed!

You can read the longer post at my blog http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Olathe, KS
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ATU - Alignment Test

2009-07-09 Thread Burke Jones
It's ALL good!  I used the milivolt setting on my DMM, and really fine tuned
C9 for the null which is really sharp.  Now the power meter is reading
correctly, and I am good to go.

I will be heading to the deck tonight to toss up my end fed antenna, and
give it a whirl.  My CW is pretty rusty - but if you are listening on 40
near the QRP calling freq - and have patience, I would love to work anyone
out there!

Don, thanks so much for all your help!  The KX1 has been a really fun little
project, and I hope to build more Elecraft kits in the future.

Burke Jones
http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/




On Wed, Jul 8, 2009 at 6:01 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Burke,

 Yes, do set C9 for the null as indicated in the manual.  It makes a BIG
 difference in both the forward and reverse (SWR) power readings.  If the
 KXAT1 does not show decent power out - in ATU CAL mode into a 50 ohm dummy
 load, then remove the KXAT1 and install the jumper at J7, then using a known
 accurate external wattmeter, tell us what the power output on the base KX1
 is for each band - ideally, power the KX1 from a 13.8 volt power supply -
 the reference data I have is based on that power supply voltage, and lower
 voltages will result in lower power outputs.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Burke Jones wrote:

 I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would revisit it.

 After a couple of months of life I was finally able to get back down to
 the bench.  I picked up the ATU and immediately noticed a big white
 rectangle with no part.  I had forgotten to install R5!

 I don't know how many times I had looked at that board and not noticed it,
 but last night it jumped right out and got me.

 Now the display is showing power out, but not what it should be.  It is
 under a watt output on 40 and 20.

 I will spend some more time tonight looking it over and be sure I have C9
 properly set.

 Anyway, I thought you would appreciate the update!

 Burke
 http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/ http://n0hyd.com/



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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 ATU - Alignment Test

2009-07-08 Thread Burke Jones
I know this is an old thread, but I thought I would revisit it.

After a couple of months of life I was finally able to get back down to
the bench.  I picked up the ATU and immediately noticed a big white
rectangle with no part.  I had forgotten to install R5!

I don't know how many times I had looked at that board and not noticed it,
but last night it jumped right out and got me.

Now the display is showing power out, but not what it should be.  It is
under a watt output on 40 and 20.

I will spend some more time tonight looking it over and be sure I have C9
properly set.

Anyway, I thought you would appreciate the update!

Burke
http://N0HYD.com http://n0hyd.com/



On Wed, Apr 15, 2009 at 8:46 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Burke,

 First make certain D1 is oriented correctly.  Can you verify that you are
 actually getting 2 watts or more output?  If so, please do that.
 If you actually do have output, make the following measurements during
 transmit:
 1) Cathode of D1 - the voltage will depend on the transmit power
 2) P3 pin 5 - the voltage should be about half of the voltage in 1) above
 (depends on R1 setting)
 3) KX1 U1 pin 2 - the voltage should be the same as in 2) above if all
 connections are solid.

 If those voltages are as I have indicated, then remove the KX1 board from
 the enclosure and check the socketed firmware chip.  Pin 2 should be
 properly inserted into the socket, not sticking out to the side or bent
 under.

 If all looks good so far, solder a test point lead on the firmware chip
 itself and bring it out to the end so you can measure the voltage directly
 on the chip lead after putting the KX1 board back in the enclosure.  Make
 the check again and see if you have the same voltage at the chip lead as you
 do at the bottom of the socket.  If the voltage is the same, you need to
 install a replacement firmware chip.

 If you have proper voltage at one point, but not the next, there is a bad
 connection between those two points.

 73,
 Don W3FPR



 Burke Jones wrote:

 Okay, I have assembled the KXAT1 ATU for the KX1.  I got it installed into
 the rig tonight and I am working on the Alignment  Test section on Page
 7
 of the manual.

 I did preset R1  R2 per the errata picture.

 Everything went fine until I started adjusting C9 for the lowest possible
 voltmeter reading.  I have a MV scale on my DMM.  The first problem I
 noticed was that when I entered the TUNE mode, my display showed P0.0 with
 a
 12.4V power supply.  I adjusted C9 to give me .2 mv on my DMM - the lowest
 I
 could get.  When I canceled TUNE MODE it showed r1.0.  I was running it
 into
 my 50 ohm dummy load by the way.

 Should the display show something other than P0.0?  Sometimes it would
 briefly show P0.1 - but on for a split second.

 I could hear the signal being transmitted into the dummy load on another
 receiver - so it is transmitting.

 Any thoughts?

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD - Olathe, KS
 http://www.n0hyd.com



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[Elecraft] KX1 ATU - Alignment Test

2009-04-14 Thread Burke Jones
Okay, I have assembled the KXAT1 ATU for the KX1.  I got it installed into
the rig tonight and I am working on the Alignment  Test section on Page 7
of the manual.

I did preset R1  R2 per the errata picture.

Everything went fine until I started adjusting C9 for the lowest possible
voltmeter reading.  I have a MV scale on my DMM.  The first problem I
noticed was that when I entered the TUNE mode, my display showed P0.0 with a
12.4V power supply.  I adjusted C9 to give me .2 mv on my DMM - the lowest I
could get.  When I canceled TUNE MODE it showed r1.0.  I was running it into
my 50 ohm dummy load by the way.

Should the display show something other than P0.0?  Sometimes it would
briefly show P0.1 - but on for a split second.

I could hear the signal being transmitted into the dummy load on another
receiver - so it is transmitting.

Any thoughts?

Burke Jones
N0HYD - Olathe, KS
http://www.n0hyd.com
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Re: [Elecraft] Kx1 Z1 Encoder testing

2009-03-17 Thread Burke Jones
Don,

I get the same reading at the q4 collector as I do on q5 base -
exactly the same.

I guess I will proceed but make a note to future reference if needed.

Burke

On 3/15/09, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Burke,

 If Q4 collector is the only point that is less than 10k, that is a
 mystery - it should connect directly to the base of Q5 and only to Q5
 base - (and therefore have the same resistance reading).  Check again
 and make certain both readings are the same.

 The 9.63k ohms *may* be OK, but you should have the same reading at Q4
 collector as you have at Q5 base.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Burke Jones wrote:
 Another thing I meant to tell you in the las email. Unrelated to z1.

 I did the resistance checks on page 54. All checks out good except for
 Q4 Collector. I am getting 9.63k instead of 10k. Is this a problem?
 If so where should I look.

 Burke Jones
 Sent from my iPhone

 On Mar 14, 2009, at 7:37 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


 Burke,

 Yes, you can test the encoder and its circuit to the microprocessor
 with a DMM.
 Measure the voltage from the encoder pins as you slowly rotate the
 encoder shaft.  The outer two pins in the row of 3 are the ones to
 measure.  As you rotate the shaft, the voltage should jump between
 zero volts and something close to 5 volts.  If it does not go to
 zero, there is a problem with the encoder.
 If the voltage does not go up to the vicinity of 5 volts, look
 carefully at RP3 and U1 pins 3 and 4.

 If that does not reveal a problem, I can give you some resistance
 checks to make too.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Burke Jones wrote:

 I am almost done with my KX1. During each test section I have
 noticed  that there seems to be a problem. Sometimes turning Z1
 changes the  frequency display but sometimes when you turn it the
 last 2 digits on  the display just go back and fourth - like from 1
 to 2 then 1 then 2.

 I have triple checked the solder connections at Z1.

 I am trying to figure out if I might have a faulty Z1 encoder. Can
 anyone tell me how I could use my DMM to test directly at the
 leads  of the Z1?  If so which leads and what should I look for?

 Thanks for all your help!!

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 Http://www.n0hyd.com

 Sent from my iPhone
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 270.11.13/2001
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 06:54:00



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[Elecraft] Kx1 Z1 Encoder testing

2009-03-14 Thread Burke Jones
I am almost done with my KX1. During each test section I have noticed  
that there seems to be a problem. Sometimes turning Z1 changes the  
frequency display but sometimes when you turn it the last 2 digits on  
the display just go back and fourth - like from 1 to 2 then 1 then 2.

I have triple checked the solder connections at Z1.

I am trying to figure out if I might have a faulty Z1 encoder. Can  
anyone tell me how I could use my DMM to test directly at the leads  
of the Z1?  If so which leads and what should I look for?

Thanks for all your help!!

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Http://www.n0hyd.com

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Kx1 Z1 Encoder testing

2009-03-14 Thread Burke Jones
Okay. Here is what happens. I was lucky when I turned it on to check  
it was having problems because it sometimes works right.

The display showed .8 and 0 volts. I would turn it and it would go to  
4.89 volts and the display would change to .9 and the voltage would  
stay at 4.89 until I turned it a bit. Then the display would change  
to .8 and the voltage would be 0.

It would just repeat this over and over everytime I turned z1 a bit.

Then it started working and the voltage would be 0 until I turned it  
and it would go up into the 5 volt range and then back to 0 when I  
stopped turning it.

Does that seem to indicate a z1 that is faulty sometimes?

Burke Jones
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 14, 2009, at 7:37 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Burke,

 Yes, you can test the encoder and its circuit to the microprocessor  
 with a DMM.
 Measure the voltage from the encoder pins as you slowly rotate the  
 encoder shaft.  The outer two pins in the row of 3 are the ones to  
 measure.  As you rotate the shaft, the voltage should jump between  
 zero volts and something close to 5 volts.  If it does not go to  
 zero, there is a problem with the encoder.
 If the voltage does not go up to the vicinity of 5 volts, look  
 carefully at RP3 and U1 pins 3 and 4.

 If that does not reveal a problem, I can give you some resistance  
 checks to make too.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Burke Jones wrote:
 I am almost done with my KX1. During each test section I have  
 noticed  that there seems to be a problem. Sometimes turning Z1  
 changes the  frequency display but sometimes when you turn it the  
 last 2 digits on  the display just go back and fourth - like from 1  
 to 2 then 1 then 2.

 I have triple checked the solder connections at Z1.

 I am trying to figure out if I might have a faulty Z1 encoder. Can   
 anyone tell me how I could use my DMM to test directly at the  
 leads  of the Z1?  If so which leads and what should I look for?

 Thanks for all your help!!

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 Http://www.n0hyd.com

 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Kx1 Z1 Encoder testing

2009-03-14 Thread Burke Jones
Another thing I meant to tell you in the las email. Unrelated to z1.

I did the resistance checks on page 54. All checks out good except for  
Q4 Collector. I am getting 9.63k instead of 10k. Is this a problem?   
If so where should I look.

Burke Jones
Sent from my iPhone

On Mar 14, 2009, at 7:37 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Burke,

 Yes, you can test the encoder and its circuit to the microprocessor  
 with a DMM.
 Measure the voltage from the encoder pins as you slowly rotate the  
 encoder shaft.  The outer two pins in the row of 3 are the ones to  
 measure.  As you rotate the shaft, the voltage should jump between  
 zero volts and something close to 5 volts.  If it does not go to  
 zero, there is a problem with the encoder.
 If the voltage does not go up to the vicinity of 5 volts, look  
 carefully at RP3 and U1 pins 3 and 4.

 If that does not reveal a problem, I can give you some resistance  
 checks to make too.

 73,
 Don W3FPR

 Burke Jones wrote:
 I am almost done with my KX1. During each test section I have  
 noticed  that there seems to be a problem. Sometimes turning Z1  
 changes the  frequency display but sometimes when you turn it the  
 last 2 digits on  the display just go back and fourth - like from 1  
 to 2 then 1 then 2.

 I have triple checked the solder connections at Z1.

 I am trying to figure out if I might have a faulty Z1 encoder. Can   
 anyone tell me how I could use my DMM to test directly at the  
 leads  of the Z1?  If so which leads and what should I look for?

 Thanks for all your help!!

 Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 Http://www.n0hyd.com

 Sent from my iPhone
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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 Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
 --- 
 -


 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.237 / Virus Database: 
 270.11.13/2001 
  - Release Date: 03/14/09 06:54:00


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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 help

2009-01-06 Thread Burke Jones
Edward,

Welcome.  I have been a Ham for many years, but I am just getting back into
the hobby.  I don't have an HF rig, so right now I am building the KX1 just
as you, so I thought I might have a couple of thoughts.  I am a soldering
robot who can follow directions well - but I don't understand a lick of
electronics theory!

For power, I just went down to the local battery mart and purchased a 12V
SLA battery, similar to the ones used for security system backup batteries.
Then I just have alligator clips that attach to the batter, a fuse inline,
and the J1 plug at the other end.

Because I live in an antenna restricted neighborhood, I am opting for the
PAR Electronics End-Fedz antenna.  It is very discrete and I could easily
take it down if needed.  Plus it will work when we go camping.  They have
gotten good reviews and they are priced in my budget.

I am currently working on Section 2 of the construction manual.  I hope to
have this section completed this weekend.  It is very fun to build, and so
far simple if you follow the directions.

As you have seen, the guys on this list are a HUGE help if you run into
trouble!!!

Let me know if you have any questions.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Olathe, KS

On Mon, Jan 5, 2009 at 11:58 AM, Edward Doyle edwarddo...@mac.com wrote:

 Howdy,

 I am new to amateur radio and just upgraded to General a few months
 ago and have some basic questions on a power supply for the KX1 and
 how to make a wire antenna.  I am going to add the auto tuner and the
 optional 80 and 30 meter board later.  So as far as a power supply can
 I use an old AC adapter as long as it is within  8 to 14 VDC and if so
 how should it be connected to the connector for J1. Or would a
 commercial type application be a better choice.  As far as the antenna
 is concerned what type of wire should be used and how is connected to
 the connector.  I hope that as I start building my kit that these
 answers will be a little more obvious but I am trying to get as much
 information as I can before I start building.

 Thanks,

 Ed
 KE7HGA
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[Elecraft] KX-1 Trouble...

2008-12-27 Thread Burke Jones
Okay gang...I have finished up part one of the build.  I applied power today
and all the voltages checked out fine.  The LED lit up, the display
worked until

I hit the menu button and LED appeared on the display.  Then I tried turning
the VFO knob to cycle through the menus, but it would only sparodically
change menus.  As I turned the VFO knob, every so often, very random the
display would change to another menu item.  Something appears to be
wrong.

I can't see any solder bridges, etc, all parts for Part One are installed.

I am a complete electronics newbie, but can follow instructions well.  I
would love some ideas!

Burke Jones
N0HYD
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Re: [Elecraft] KX1 Newby Help!

2008-12-23 Thread Burke Jones
Don, Philip  Paul -

Thank you guys so much for the help!  It turns out I was confusing infinite
resistance with zero resistance - it looks like I am good to go ahead
with the next step.

I have a steady hand and I am good at following the excellent direction
provided by Elecraft - so with your occasional help, this project should end
successfully!

Again, thanks for the clear and patient explanations.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Olathe, KS

On Mon, Dec 22, 2008 at 9:08 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Burke,

 What do you mean by nothing?  I am going to guess that it means the DMM
 indicates the same as when you have nothing connected to the leads and the
 DMM is set to read resistance (correct me if I am wrong).

 If my assumption (guess) is correct, that is the indication for infinite
 resistance (i.e. an open circuit) for your DMM.

 Now - consider the meaning of the  indicator.  That is the symbol for
 greater than.  Infinite resistance *is* greater than the value indicated,
 so if my assumption is correct, you have no problem.

 A DMM resistance reading that continues to climb usually indicates that the
 DMM current is charging a large capacitor.  As long as the lowest reading is
 greater than that indicated in the manual, no problem exists.

 Realize that at this point the resistance measurements are checking for
 shorts.(with the exceptions of the readings that are  (less than) 5k), so
 any measurement that is greater than the indicated value (to include
 infinite resistance = open circuit) passes the test.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 Burke Jones wrote:

 Okay, I am a complete electronics newby - so please be patient.
  I have worked my way carefully up to page 26 on my KX1.  I have double
 checked everything, but I may need to do it again.
  The problem is with the resistance checks.
  On U1 I have several pins that provide no resitance, by no I mean not
 even zero - my DMM just shows nothing.
  On U3 pin 1 and pen 8 show nothing as well.
  This is true even if I touch the solder points on the bottom instead of
 the pin holes or legs.
  Also when I check the diodes D2 and D3 the Ohms just keep getting higher
 and higher.  In other words when I touch the banded end of the diode the
 resistance just keeps increasing as long as the probe is on the lead.  Is
 this correct?
  Any help would be much appreciated!  This is my first kit, and while I
 know basically nothing about electronics I am good a physically constructing
 things and I am careful in my work.
  Burke Jones
 N0HYD
 Olathe, KS


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[Elecraft] Walwart power?

2008-12-23 Thread Burke Jones

Could I use a 12V 500ma to power my KX1 when at home?

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] Walwart power?

2008-12-23 Thread Burke Jones

Thanks guys!  You have confirmed my suspicions.

Burke
Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 23, 2008, at 5:23 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:


Burke,

There are exceptions to everything, but in general, wall warts are  
not a good power supply choice.
For most of the 12 volt wall warts, the no-load voltage soars to as  
much as 17 volts and when loaded to full rated current, the voltage  
will sag below 12 volts.


Now, if you can find one that is well regulated, it *might* be OK,  
but it has been a long time since I have seen regulated wall warts  
advertised.


Most wall warts are designed to be used with equipment that contains  
an internal regulator and filtering.


I would suggest looking for a 13.8 volt 3 (to 6) amp power supply.

73,
Don W3FPR

Burke Jones wrote:

Could I use a 12V 500ma to power my KX1 when at home?

Burke Jones


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[Elecraft] KX1 Newby Help!

2008-12-22 Thread Burke Jones
Okay, I am a complete electronics newby - so please be patient.

I have worked my way carefully up to page 26 on my KX1.  I have double
checked everything, but I may need to do it again.

The problem is with the resistance checks.

On U1 I have several pins that provide no resitance, by no I mean not even
zero - my DMM just shows nothing.

On U3 pin 1 and pen 8 show nothing as well.

This is true even if I touch the solder points on the bottom instead of the
pin holes or legs.

Also when I check the diodes D2 and D3 the Ohms just keep getting higher and
higher.  In other words when I touch the banded end of the diode the
resistance just keeps increasing as long as the probe is on the lead.  Is
this correct?

Any help would be much appreciated!  This is my first kit, and while I know
basically nothing about electronics I am good a physically constructing
things and I am careful in my work.

Burke Jones
N0HYD
Olathe, KS
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