Re: [Elecraft] HELP! XFINITY SHUT OFF INTERNET DUE TO HAM ANTENNAS

2021-10-20 Thread Mooneer Salem
Yeah, I'm kinda surprised myself that they did anything on the ham bands at
all; I would have expected them to stay out of anything that could
interfere with us. For instance, I just logged into my Spectrum-provided
cable modem and the closest they seem to get to the ham bands around here
is 17.8MHz and 24.2MHz on the uplink. And considering where I live, I would
have expected my operation to have interfered with someone's internet
already if it was going to. (I do 100W *max* into a roof-mounted MFJ
magloop, but typically ~50W just to be safe.)

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 11:36 AM David Bunte  wrote:

> Eric -
>
> Xfinity is also my provider. I have never heard of such a thing... and I
> had no idea they did anything down at 14 mHz.
>
> I would call the ARRL directly and ask for suggestions on how to proceed. I
> would also call Xfinity customer service and ask for justification. My
> guess is that like most of us there is not a suitable competitor from whom
> you can get service.
>
> Best of luck de Dave - K9FN
>
> On Wed, Oct 20, 2021 at 2:23 PM eric norris via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
> > Dear Gang:
> > Xfinity, our internet provider, showed up at 7:30am this morning, to
> > explain to the XYL that we were being cut off for good because my amateur
> > radio activities had caused wide area outages.  Oddly, these wide area
> > outages did not include my own house.  They told her the antennas
> > themselves--absent any power--were the problem
> > The last time I was threatened, I installed chokes and opto-isolaters on
> > our shielded ethernet lines, and after being told they use 14Mhz as their
> > carrier frequency, I have stayed off 20m, only using 100w unless I'm in a
> > rare contest.  I asked to speak to a technical guy--they gave me a number
> > which I called, but he never called back.
> > Any Ideas?  Does anyone have a contact at the ARRL, or know a
> > communications lawyer?  Comcast/Xfinity will be back out here at 2pm
> > Pacific time--I'd appreciate any help.
> > My XYL depends on an internet connection to work.  Being off the air is
> > unimaginable.
> > Frantic,
> >
> > 73, Eric WD6DBM
> >
> > 
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3s and DEMI transverter

2021-06-02 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi Joe,

>From what I've been able to tell, for what most people use transverters for
(SSB/CW on the weak signal portions of VHF/UHF), 28MHz is perfectly okay.
Personally, I like choices, so I've considered getting a 10MHz IF if I ever
got deep into transverters. This would in theory allow full use of both 2
meters and 70cm with the same radio, if not some higher bands. Of course, I
haven't looked into it too closely to see whether 10MHz is even workable
given that there's also a 10MHz clock input on the Q5 transverters, so any
thoughts on that would be good.

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Wed, Jun 2, 2021 at 6:34 AM W8JH  wrote:

> I am looking to add the DEMI (Q5) transverter to my K3s and have no
> experience with transverters other than the internal one in my KX3.  In the
> future, I may wish to progress to 2m EME as well.
>
> Here are some choices I need to make and I would appreciate any advice:
>
> Common IF vs Split IF.  I'm thinking split IF with a K3s?
>
> Common RF or Split RF.  Common RF for one antenna connection?
>
> IF drive level of -20 to 0dBm vs 0dBm to +20dBm.  I think the K3s
> transverter output is 0dBm so I'm not sure what to think here.
>
> PTT polarity low instead of high I'm thinking.
>
> High stability Local Oscillator vs. standard.
>
> I could get a custom IF and I think there is some slight advantage to a
> 14mHz custom but I'm guessing the 28mHz standard IF is good enough?
>
> Thanks in advance for any advice or references.
>
>
>
>
>
> -
> 73,
>
> Joe, W8JH
>
> K3s, KPA 500, KAT 500 and  KX3 happy user.
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] Mag Loop from MFJ

2021-01-18 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi Fred,

On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 4:31 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:

> There is another disadvantage to portable mag loops ... in a public
> place, you may find yourself speaking with a law officer, it seems there
> a number of folks that will call the cops on on the guy with headphones
> sitting at the picnic table in the park.


Fortunately I've never had that issue but I did get a fire truck pulling up
next to me at Fiesta Island here in San Diego once (with one of the
firefighters being interested in my full size 20 meter vertical and asking
questions about my radio setup). That was pretty cool.

(MFJ ~17' telescoping whip screwed into a Buddipole Versa-Tee + 1-2 raised
radial wires cut to quarter wavelength at 20 meters. With a KX3 driving it,
of course.)

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Mag Loop from MFJ

2021-01-18 Thread Mooneer Salem
FWIW, mine has worked fairly well (on the roof of my second floor condo)
since last year, moreso on 20 than 40 meters. At the time I was honestly
not sure how else I'd have been able to have something permanently set up
outdoors (unfortunately needed due to stucco construction) and HOA approved
otherwise*, so there's definitely a market for them. In my experience, the
"band change" buttons stop tuning when the SWR gets close--even when
retuning within the same band--and the slow tune buttons seem to have
enough granularity to allow someone to stop when the dip in reflected power
happens. If one's loop doesn't do that, there's a pot that one can adjust
inside the control box to fix that particular issue.

Anyway, this thread does remind me that I should go back up and confirm the
conductor diameter for sure; I had been assuming something close to 1"
before but it's likely smaller than that.

-Mooneer K6AQ

* I only found out about the Isotrons after setting up the loop.
Considering the supposed bandwidth of the 40m and up ones, it's possible
I'd have gone with those instead (since less effort is always nice).


On Mon, Jan 18, 2021 at 3:43 PM Morgan Bailey  wrote:

> They are unreliable pieces of junk. The housing does not protect the
> capacitors that are in house made and bugs can crawl into the housing and
> short them out. Secondly, the plastic housing in Kansas will be destroyed
> by the sun. The best thing about the loop is the loop itself. It is built
> well. The caps are cheap. Tuning the bastard is not consistent, not fast,
> and highly touchy. The only loop worth purchasing is the Ciro Mazzoni loop
> from Italy sold by DX engineering. It will take abuse and has an excellent
> tuning feature that will follow your radio. Each time you change freq with
> the MFJ it is a task to get it to tune again. A friend of mine bought one
> and it was soon offered to me for $100. Then he became so frustrated with
> it that he wanted me to take it for free if I would dig the post out of the
> ground he mounted it on. I Passed knowing that any dipole would blow it
> away. Even an end fed random wire will beat it in performance if put up
> right. In the end there are many cheaper options that work far better than
> the MFJ mag loop.
>
> 73,
> Morgan NJ8M
>
> BS + MS + $2.98 = COFFEE
> Real Life Experience = Priceless, says the man who set his back yard on
> fire with a breadboard tuner loading a 160 meter inverted L with 1000
> watts. LOL
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Re: [Elecraft] OT: Kidde smoke detectors

2020-10-24 Thread Mooneer Salem
FWIW, we use a Nest Protect here (hardwired into A/C, too) and haven't had
problems with RFI. I imagine it'd be a different story if it didn't use
Wi-Fi, though.

Speaking of Wi-Fi, our Ubiquiti access point required at least four
Ethernet chokes, a third party PoE injector and CAT7 shielded cable to get
the RFI down to an acceptable level. That was a fairly surprising thing to
have happen but I guess PoE in general is well known to be really bad for
RFI (and the limited antenna possibilities at the QTH I'm sure didn't help
either).

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Sat, Oct 24, 2020 at 9:02 PM Mark Goldberg 
wrote:

> I have an older wired alarm system that uses serial data, and it is
> indeed awful. The serial data is quite slow but it has no filtering. I
> added an LC filter that works well enough to keep the RFI out of my
> station, at least down to the level of what comes from my neighbors
> and keeps my station from setting off the alarm system (most of the
> time).
>
> At my son's house, he and neighbors have some SimpliSafe and other
> wireless alarm systems and the HF Ham bands are wiped out by the RFI.
> I have no idea what nominal frequency range or signalling they use. I
> would expect for battery life they would not transmit often, but
> whatever they do to create the RFI is continuous.
>
> I also have a hard wired smoke alarm from Kidde. That uses a DC
> interconnect between units. I believe any unit that goes off pulls a
> line up to about 9 V and they all go off. They are kind of cagey as to
> exactly what the interconnect signal is though, so I may be a little
> off.  I have not detected any issues with RFI or susceptibility. Those
> may indeed work for you.
>
> I do have a Spectrum Analyzer and multiple types of clamp on probes
> and antennas but have not taken the time to do any quantitative
> measurements of any of these.
>
> Having to tell the Fire Department that the fire alarm is false is not
> a good thing.
>
> 73,
>
> Mark
> W7MLG
>
> On Sat, Oct 24, 2020 at 7:38 PM Jim Brown 
> wrote:
> >
> > On 10/24/2020 6:53 PM, Harlan Sherriff via Elecraft wrote:
> > > So, guess I’ll send these back and get some hardwired interconnected
> units.
> >
> > That is probably a recipe for noise, radiated by that interconnected
> > wiring. The security industry has long been notorious for EMC to and
> > from their systems. WiFi interfacing should reduce both significantly,
> > but before committing to anything, chat up engineers at the company
> > about RFI.
> >
> > 73, Jim K9YC
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] [Elecraft-KX] KX3 microphone nut size

2020-08-29 Thread Mooneer Salem
Thanks Wayne and everyone else who responded! I should be able to get in
touch with support sometime next week.

Anyway, I figured it was something like being metric instead of imperial.
It would be nice if everything was the same for sure.

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 4:27 PM N6KR  wrote:

> It's metric. If you need one, we'll send it at no charge. Please contact
> support.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> > On Aug 28, 2020, at 4:24 PM, Rich NE1EE <73.de.ne...@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > It is easy to cross thread nuts and screws this way. IME, machine
> threads...which is likely what you have here...either work or they don't.
> You should be able to get at least 2 clean, easy rotations. And that is for
> a nut that is going on a bolt/stud that will not stand proud of the nut
> when it is tight. That likely applies to many of the screws and nuts in the
> Elecraft equipment. Folks who "think" that they have a good match and that
> the nut just needs to be "tightened" wind up cross threading, and then you
> be lucky a) get the nut off, and b) get the correct one to fit. This works
> for all sizes...right up to, and past, engine block studs and nuts.
> (Experience.) Many are the times that I have wrapped my hand around a
> manifold, to a stud I can't see, and gently rotated the nut until I was
> sure that I had a proper fit.
> >
> > Now...back to the KX3...this comes as a kit, yes? Then perhaps the kit
> manual calls out the nut size.
> >
> > On 2020-08-28 13:34:-0700, Mooneer Salem wrote:
> >> Tried some normal 1/4"-20 hex nuts from Lowe's too (much too thick mind
> you, but should at least confirm if the diameter/TPI are correct) and no
> such luck.�
> >>
> >> Interestingly, I took off the nut from a spare SMA pigtail and it was
> able to mate it with the microphone connector. However, I couldn't rotate
> it past 1/2 turn or so and I didn't want to force it with tools and
> potentially damage the jack. If it was the correct size, I'd have been able
> to tighten it much further by hand, right?
> >>
> >> -Mooneer K6AQ
> >>
> >> On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:21 PM hawley, charles j jr < c-haw...@illinois.edu>c-haw...@illinois.edu> wrote:
> >> 1/4"-20�  I think
> >>
> >> Chuck Hawley
> >> � <mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>c-haw...@illinois.edu
> >> �
> >> � Amateur Radio, KE9UW
> >> � aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles�
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> From: <mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net>
> elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net <<mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> >elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net> on behalf of Mooneer Salem < moon...@gmail.com>moon...@gmail.com>
> >> Sent: Friday, August 28, 2020 3:12 PM
> >> To: Elecraft Reflector <<mailto:elecraft@mailman.qth.net>
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net>; <mailto:elecraft...@groups.io>
> elecraft...@groups.io <<mailto:elecraft...@groups.io>elecraft...@groups.io
> >
> >> Subject: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size
> >> �
> >> Hi all,
> >>
> >> Does anyone know what exactly would replace the microphone nut on the
> KX3?
> >> (I seem to have somehow misplaced mine.) The jack itself seemed to
> measure
> >> 1/4" OD but some 1/4"-32 panel nuts that I found don't seem to screw
> into
> >> it.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >>
> >> -Mooneer K6AQ
> >> __
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: <http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>
> http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >>
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> http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >> Message delivered to <mailto:c-haw...@illinois.edu>
> c-haw...@illinois.edu
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > ~R~
> > 72/73 de Rich NE1EE
> > On the banks of the Piscataqua
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 72/73 de Rich NE1EE
> > On the banks of the Piscataqua
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

2020-08-28 Thread Mooneer Salem
Tried some normal 1/4"-20 hex nuts from Lowe's too (much too thick mind
you, but should at least confirm if the diameter/TPI are correct) and no
such luck.

Interestingly, I took off the nut from a spare SMA pigtail and it was able
to mate it with the microphone connector. However, I couldn't rotate it
past 1/2 turn or so and I didn't want to force it with tools and
potentially damage the jack. If it was the correct size, I'd have been able
to tighten it much further by hand, right?

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Fri, Aug 28, 2020 at 1:21 PM hawley, charles j jr 
wrote:

> 1/4"-20  I think
>
> Chuck Hawley
>  c-haw...@illinois.edu
>
>  Amateur Radio, KE9UW
>  aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles
>
> --
> *From:* elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
> on behalf of Mooneer Salem 
> *Sent:* Friday, August 28, 2020 3:12 PM
> *To:* Elecraft Reflector ; elecraft...@groups.io
> 
> *Subject:* [Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size
>
> Hi all,
>
> Does anyone know what exactly would replace the microphone nut on the KX3?
> (I seem to have somehow misplaced mine.) The jack itself seemed to measure
> 1/4" OD but some 1/4"-32 panel nuts that I found don't seem to screw into
> it.
>
> Thanks,
>
> -Mooneer K6AQ
> __
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[Elecraft] KX3 microphone nut size

2020-08-28 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi all,

Does anyone know what exactly would replace the microphone nut on the KX3?
(I seem to have somehow misplaced mine.) The jack itself seemed to measure
1/4" OD but some 1/4"-32 panel nuts that I found don't seem to screw into
it.

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ
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Re: [Elecraft] Fwd: Establishing A New Station

2020-05-14 Thread Mooneer Salem
I've been playing with a MFJ loop for my second floor condo and I can say
that loops are extremely sensitive to any close objects/surfaces. For
instance, tuning changed significantly when I had mine laying on the roof
vs. ~4ft above it (to the point where SWR was marginal on the lower part of
40m with the former). It was horizontal both times, too.

Also, loops are going to have more loss at the lower end of their design
range due to physics. 15w may very well not be enough to make contacts
depending on how it's designed, though band conditions also play a role.

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Thu, May 14, 2020 at 7:21 PM Phil Kane  wrote:

>
> On 5/13/2020 12:42 PM, brianchapn...@rogers.com wrote:
>
> > Im thinking of a loop. I've had good luck with them. Any thoughts?
>
> I've been using a loop on the porch of our ground level apartment.  At
> 15 watts.  It is useless - can't get it to tune properly and I often
> think that I would have a better signal with my dummy load at 100 watts.
>  If you are getting good luck you must be doing something right.  At
> east you have the advantage of 34 stories - good for you.
>
> 73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
> Elecraft K2/100   s/n 5402
>
> From a Clearing in the Silicon Forest
> Beaverton (Washington County) Oregon
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Re: [Elecraft] KX-3 TX current draw?

2020-05-08 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi Drew,

I got 2.36A current consumption @ 5W using a dummy load and the TX button
on 50.100MHz USB with my KX3 (S/N 3262). The voltage dropped from 13.74V to
13.67V during transmit. (Measured using an in-line Powerpole meter attached
between a 54Ah LiFePO4 battery and the KX3.) Hopefully this helps!

BTW, I had to recently redo TX calibration because I ended up doing a
factory reset while trying to re-run temperature compensation (long story),
so I'm not sure if this is any more or less indicative of "normal" power
consumption.

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Fri, May 8, 2020 at 4:34 PM Drew Arnett  wrote:

> Walter,
>
> 50 MHz TX constant 4 W carrier measures 13.53 V on DMM (outside the DC
> power plug), 13.3 V on KX3 meter, 2.9 A on KX3 meter and 1.6 to 1 VSWR
> on KX3 meter.  Microwave dummy load with BNC to N adapter.
>
> I didn't measure all of this when the rig was new, so have no baseline
> to know what is normal.  :-(
>
> Thanks,
>
> Drew
> n7da
>
> On Fri, May 8, 2020 at 11:19 PM Drew Arnett  wrote:
> >
> > What do you see for current draw on the KX-3?  Manual says 1 to 2 A
> typical.
> >
> > I'm seeing 3 A at less than full power on one band.  Yikes!  Makes me
> > wonder if the repair shop is open?  Elecraft website says hunkered
> > down and mostly work from home.
> >
> > Thanks and best regards,
> >
> > Drew
> > n7da
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Re: [Elecraft] KX2 Safe Operating PA Temperature

2020-03-27 Thread Mooneer Salem
FWIW, my KX3 handles 15 watts digital with no issues as far as I can tell.
I did the temperature compensation and have a third party heatsink, though.
I haven't looked too much at third party heatsinks for the KX2 but I
imagine I'd probably want to follow that 50% advice even with one installed
simply due to its physical size.

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Thu, Mar 26, 2020, 10:47 PM Joan via Elecraft 
wrote:

> The KX2 will automatically fold back its power (responding to temperature)
> to prevent thermal runaway or damage to its finals
>
> That being said, it is routinely recommended that when running any 100%
> duty cycle mode (e.g. typical digital text modes or FM Phone) one reduces
> RF output to 50% of rated output
>
> 73 de KX2CW
> Joan
>
> Darmok and Jalad at Tanagra, said Piglet.
> Shaka, when the walls fell, said Pooh.
>
> > On Mar 26, 2020, at 18:09, Steve Anness  wrote:
> >
> > This question was posed last October by another on the reflector in
> regards
> > to the KX3 but does not look like there was a response.  I had posed the
> > question once to Elecraft support and believe my email got lost in the
> > fray.  When I posted the question to Elecraft support it was a month
> after
> > I received my KX2 and I was running 10 watts with it and it had gotten up
> > to 61C which is what prompted the question.
> >
> > I have been running FT8 at around 5 watts recently and I see it getting
> up
> > to 51C.
> >
> > At what point should I stop operating and let it cool down?  I love my
> KX2
> > and don't want to damage it.  I do know that these are used in fields by
> > many so perhaps I am just being paranoid.
> >
> > 73 de KJ5T
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] 10 MHz reference osc. suggestion?

2020-02-05 Thread Mooneer Salem
I used this one from Geppetto Electronics when I last ran temperature
compensation on my KX3:
https://www.tindie.com/products/nsayer/gps-disciplined-ocxo/. One advantage
is that it also produces NMEA output along with PPS, so one could build a
GPS-based NTP server at some point in the future. It also uses a OCXO
instead of a TCXO, so temperature changes should be less of a factor in its
accuracy (though I'm not sure that matters much for normal ham radio use).

-Mooneer K6AQ

On Wed, Feb 5, 2020 at 11:45 AM Gary Peterson  wrote:

> Does anyone have any recommendations for a particular 10 MHz GPS
> disciplined oscillator that would work well as an external reference for a
> K3S?  I might also use a GPSDO as an external time base for my frequency
> counter.  Either recommendations or products one should avoid would be most
> appreciated.  Feel free to reply off list.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Gary, K0CX
> kzer...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 temperature compensation experience

2020-01-21 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi all,

Here are some answers to questions that came up after I emailed my initial
post:

*1. How was transmit inhibited on the KX3?*
I set the power output to 0.0W as per the temperature compensation
instructions.

*2. Was any attenuation used during the procedure?*
Yes, a step attenuator set to approximately 40dB.

*3. Which GPSDO was used for the procedure and what is the power
specification of its output?*
https://www.tindie.com/products/nsayer/gps-disciplined-ocxo/. I used the
square wave output, which produced ~1.5Vpp per my oscilloscope prior to
performing the procedure.

Also, I performed some additional experimentation as to which frequency is
the best to perform the reference calibration from. I performed reference
calibration at 10/20MHz (both produced the same result for REF CAL), 30MHz
and 50Mhz and ended up with the following REF CAL numbers and their
frequency differentials:

*10/20MHz:*
*REF CAL:* 114.326.78
*50MHz:* 49.999.970 (-30hz => -0.6ppm)
*30MHz:* 29.999.993 (-07hz => -0.4ppm)
*20MHz:* 20.000.000 (+00hz => +0.0ppm)
*10MHz:* 10.000.000 (+00hz => +0.0ppm)

*30MHz:*
*REF CAL:* 114.326.81
*50MHz:* 49.999.986 (-14hz => -0.3ppm)
*30MHz:* 30.000.000 (+00hz => +0.0ppm)
*20MHz:* 20.000.004 (+04hz => +0.2ppm)
*10MHz:* 10.000.002 (+02hz => +0.2ppm)

*50Mhz:*
*REF CAL: *114.327.85
*50MHz:* 50.000.000 (+00hz => +0.0ppm)
*30MHz:* 30.000.010 (+10hz => +0.3ppm)
*20MHz:* 20.000.012 (+12hz => +0.6ppm)
*10MHz: *10.000.006 (+06hz => +0.6ppm)

Based on the above, performing reference calibration using a 30MHz
signal/harmonic seems to produce the lowest magnitude ppm differences in
frequency across the KX3's range. 50MHz is probably the next best
signal/harmonic to use, especially if one wants to avoid negative
differentials.

Anyway, let me know if you have any additional questions.

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ

BTW, I also tried performing reference calibration using a 150MHz signal.
I'm not 100% confident of the values but that seemed to produce the worst
results for HF (bumping up pretty close to Elecraft's 1ppm spec). However,
for those who primarily use it as a transverter input, there may still be
some value in doing so.

On Wed, Jan 15, 2020 at 4:10 PM Mooneer Salem  wrote:

> Hi all,
>
> I recently redid temperature compensation on my KX3 using a GPSDO that I
> purchased to see what kind of results I could get. (I last did it a while
> ago with the XG50 and didn't have any complaints about operation afterward,
> but I also pretty much only used 20 meters and below.) Below is what I did
> and what I observed.
>
> *Device info:*
>
> KX3 purchased February 2013 (revision D RF board, S/N in the 3000 range),
> 2 meter, battery charger and roofing filter options installed
> VE7FMN heatsink installed
>
> *Steps performed:*
>
> 1. Warmed up GPSDO (~24h beforehand).
> 2. Warmed up KX3 until OSC temperature stopped climbing (~1h to reach 34C).
> 3. Performed reference calibration at 50.000MHz (5th harmonic of 10MHz
> square wave output) using the automatic method.
> 4. Placed KX3 in fridge for ~1-1.5 hours and set up heating equipment
> (100W incandescent bulb and makeshift box using baking sheets to keep heat
> in).
> 5. Removed KX3, turned it on and began data collection/storage. I also
> started logging using KX3 Utility. (OSC was ~14C at this point.)
> 6. After ~70min or so, stopped data collection at 52C and turned off bulb.
> 7. Reset reference calibration after allowing cooldown.
> 8. Started fldigi in analysis mode and recorded frequency data for ~15
> minutes.
>
> *Discussion:*
>
> See attached. In short, frequency differences vs. temperature seem to be
> linear up until close to the end of calibration, where the frequency starts
> to go back up. The data collected from fldigi also seems to indicate an
> average frequency shift of 0.04ppm at 10MHz, which IMO is perfectly
> acceptable. (For reference, the specs for the Yaesu FT-817's TCXO claim
> 0.5ppm.)
>
> That said, I did notice--as with others in previous posts to the various
> Elecraft/KX3 lists--that the signal is significantly shifted on 6 meters
> when performing the second reference calibration based on a HF signal (and
> vice versa). However, there doesn't seem to be much of a difference
> regardless of where one calibrates on HF. For me, since I don't do much
> operating on 6 meters, I kept the 10MHz based reference calibration. It
> would be nice if one could set a separate reference frequency for 6m/2m vs.
> HF so that the radio can be right on frequency regardless of where it's
> being used.
>
> Also, I haven't tried transmitting with the new calibration yet, but given
> that I didn't have any problems with the digital modes I commonly use in
> the past, I don't expect any issues now. I did find
> http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/KX3HeatSinks.

[Elecraft] KX3 temperature compensation experience

2020-01-15 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi all,

I recently redid temperature compensation on my KX3 using a GPSDO that I
purchased to see what kind of results I could get. (I last did it a while
ago with the XG50 and didn't have any complaints about operation afterward,
but I also pretty much only used 20 meters and below.) Below is what I did
and what I observed.

*Device info:*

KX3 purchased February 2013 (revision D RF board, S/N in the 3000 range), 2
meter, battery charger and roofing filter options installed
VE7FMN heatsink installed

*Steps performed:*

1. Warmed up GPSDO (~24h beforehand).
2. Warmed up KX3 until OSC temperature stopped climbing (~1h to reach 34C).
3. Performed reference calibration at 50.000MHz (5th harmonic of 10MHz
square wave output) using the automatic method.
4. Placed KX3 in fridge for ~1-1.5 hours and set up heating equipment (100W
incandescent bulb and makeshift box using baking sheets to keep heat in).
5. Removed KX3, turned it on and began data collection/storage. I also
started logging using KX3 Utility. (OSC was ~14C at this point.)
6. After ~70min or so, stopped data collection at 52C and turned off bulb.
7. Reset reference calibration after allowing cooldown.
8. Started fldigi in analysis mode and recorded frequency data for ~15
minutes.

*Discussion:*

See attached. In short, frequency differences vs. temperature seem to be
linear up until close to the end of calibration, where the frequency starts
to go back up. The data collected from fldigi also seems to indicate an
average frequency shift of 0.04ppm at 10MHz, which IMO is perfectly
acceptable. (For reference, the specs for the Yaesu FT-817's TCXO claim
0.5ppm.)

That said, I did notice--as with others in previous posts to the various
Elecraft/KX3 lists--that the signal is significantly shifted on 6 meters
when performing the second reference calibration based on a HF signal (and
vice versa). However, there doesn't seem to be much of a difference
regardless of where one calibrates on HF. For me, since I don't do much
operating on 6 meters, I kept the 10MHz based reference calibration. It
would be nice if one could set a separate reference frequency for 6m/2m vs.
HF so that the radio can be right on frequency regardless of where it's
being used.

Also, I haven't tried transmitting with the new calibration yet, but given
that I didn't have any problems with the digital modes I commonly use in
the past, I don't expect any issues now. I did find
http://www.bigskyspaces.com/w7gj/KX3HeatSinks.htm before doing this, which
(a) indicated that there's a newer version of the RF board and (b) required
board modifications to get the oscillator to be stable enough for all but
JT65A on 6 meters. I'm not planning on modding my own KX3 in this manner,
but out of curiosity, is there a RF board newer than revision D (as
indicated in the schematics document on Elecraft's site)?

Anyway, let me know if you have any questions or if there's anything with
the methodology I could have done better. Offhand, calculating and setting
ppm offsets in fldigi might improve the frequency analysis a little bit,
though I don't know if it'd be by enough to matter much. Not to mention
doing a temperature compensation with the XG50 again to see how much a
GPSDO truly adds.

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ
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[Elecraft] KX3 and flrig operation

2013-12-29 Thread Mooneer Salem
Hi all,

I recently upgraded to a 13 retina MacBook Pro and am trying to set up
fldigi and flrig. At the moment I have flrig working and talking to fldigi
and can adjust most of the KX3 from the flrig application. However,
occasionally when I flip fldigi into transmit mode to respond to someone,
the KX3 takes a bit of time before it finally starts transmitting. As a
result, a large amount of the text being sent gets cut off.

One thing I did notice is that the red and green LEDs inside the KX3's USB
cable constantly light up when flrig is in the foreground. After ten or so
seconds with flrig in the background, those lights stop working. Could my
laptop and/or flrig be putting the USB port to sleep? How do I get it to
not do that?

Thanks,

-Mooneer K6AQ
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 Accuracy of clock

2013-12-04 Thread Mooneer Salem
I actually built one from an Arduino before. It's accurate within
milliseconds (which is enough for JT65), but I'm sure it could be made
better. (Source code at https://github.com/tmiw/arduino-ntpd if interested.)

-Mooneer KG6AOV


On Tue, Dec 3, 2013 at 4:31 PM, Ben Hall kd5...@kd5byb.net wrote:

 For the very time-obsessed, build and operate your own GPS-controlled NTP
 time server as described here:

 http://open.konspyre.org/blog/2012/10/18/raspberry-pi-time-server/

 Yes, I admit, I have one of these serving network time here in my shack or
 laboratory as my 8 year old son calls it.  :)

 At one time it was even worse - I had a GPS-disciplined 10 MHz frequency
 standard...  ;)

 thanks and 73,
 ben, kd5byb


 On 12/3/2013 1:47 PM, Edward R Cole wrote:

 Not sure how all this commentary on computer time applies to the topic
 title.  My KX3 keeps perfect time since I did not buy the battery
 charger...no clock!  My $12 wrist watch has about 1 second/year accuracy.

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 TX inhibit ?

2013-10-02 Thread Mooneer Salem
If you have the packet cable kit, you can ground the ACC2 line and set the
ACC2 IO menu option to LO=Inh (see page 35 of the manual for details).

-Mooneer KG6AOV


On Tue, Oct 1, 2013 at 11:33 PM, HB9CAT hb9...@thezollingers.org wrote:

 All,



 I plan to use my KX3 for RX only, connected to a 2m downconverter; I want
 to
 be 100% sure that no power gets transmitted because of a n accidental
 manipulation; is it possible to inhibit the trasmitter ?

 I didn't find any hint in the manual.



 Marco HB9CAT

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Re: [Elecraft] XG50 warmup after initial run

2013-02-15 Thread Mooneer Salem
Assuming the 8 hour run has been done, it sounds like I can turn on the
XG50 right when I start the procedure. Thanks for the clarification. :)

-Mooneer KG6AOV


On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 9:00 AM, Paul Saffren N6HZ pa...@elecraft.comwrote:

 You only have to perform the long (8 hr) burn in once.  After that you
 can
 use the XG50 as outlined in the temperature compensation procedure.  When
 performing the procedure, be sure to place the XG50 in an area free from
 temperature swings, moving air, etc.  Doing so will ensure a stable signal
 and provide a better compensation table within the KX3.


 73,

 Paul




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 View this message in context:
 http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/XG50-warmup-after-initial-run-tp7569965p7569969.html
 Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] XG50 warmup after initial run

2013-02-15 Thread Mooneer Salem
Don,

Makes sense. I actually went ahead and did the temperature compensation
procedure tonight. I let the XG50 warm up while the KX3 was warming up (~30
minutes), then performed the procedure. Cooling down for a bit after, I
noticed that the tone now varies by +/- 3 Hz, much better than
pre-procedure. Pretty good for using a hotel mini-fridge that only cooled
the radio down to 19C. :) Thanks all for the advice.

73,

-Mooneer KG6AOV


On Fri, Feb 15, 2013 at 5:15 PM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Mooneer,

 I would not go so far as to say that.  Any stable signal generator needs
 some warmup time.  For instance my HP8640B is very stable - but only after
 about a 2 hour warmup period.  Everything inside has to come up to
 operating temperature, and it drifts until that occurs.
 I would suggest at least a 15 minute warmup for the XG50, a half hour
 would be better.  At least I would be more comfortable with an assumption
 like that even if it is overkill.

 I believe the 8 hour 'burn in' is a time to allow the XG50 crystal some
 'run time'.  New crystals will typically exhibit some initial change in
 frequency that does not re-occur - think of it similar to the 'break-in'
 period for a new engine - you don't have to repeat that every time you
 start the car, but you do have to let it warm up before it will deliver
 peak performance.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 2/15/2013 7:53 PM, Mooneer Salem wrote:

 Assuming the 8 hour run has been done, it sounds like I can turn on the
 XG50 right when I start the procedure. Thanks for the clarification. :)



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