Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. 73, de Nate -- The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true. Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Nate Bargmann wrote: I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on to the cable that comes with the kit K3. Expecting assemblers to buy a special tool just to fit two connectors is unreasonable. Having said that, I soldered my connectors as advised like no doubt hundreds of other K3 assemblers and have not experienced any problems. If Elecraft think it's OK to solder the connectors I'm not going to disagree with them. - Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392 K3 #222. * G4ILO's Shack - http://www.g4ilo.com * KComm - http://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html * KTune - http://www.g4ilo.com/ktune.html -- View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Re-Anderson-Powerpoll-connector-tp6205508p6207701.html Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended. I don't believe the typical K3 power cord is going to be constantly flexed, so in this case soldering is just as good as crimping. For situations where vibration or movement of the cable is likely (mobile installation for example), then crimping would be the method of choice. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/25/2011 9:35 AM, Julian, G4ILO wrote: Nate Bargmann wrote: I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. If that's the case, Elecraft should crimp the connectors on to the cable that comes with the kit K3. Expecting assemblers to buy a special tool just to fit two connectors is unreasonable. Having said that, I soldered my connectors as advised like no doubt hundreds of other K3 assemblers and have not experienced any problems. If Elecraft think it's OK to solder the connectors I'm not going to disagree with them. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I've never soldered an APP and have very few problems with them that weren't a function of operator error on my part. I use a set of Klein crimpers. It is important, at least with this particular tool, to carefully re-round the shank and re-align the tongue after crimping. This whole issue is probably more a function of people assuming that the voltage reported by the K3 is actually the supply voltage rather than an internal voltage, than it is to do with APPs. 73 Jack KZ5A K3 #4165 On 3/25/2011 7:28 AM, Nate Bargmann wrote: I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. 73, de Nate __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Nate, I think it is ok to solder, but use some thick walled heat shrinking out a distance from the connector to provide some strain relief. This would also hold the poles together. Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Nate Bargmann Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:29 AM To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector I concur, Crimp connectors should never be soldered under any circumstances. Get the proper tool or use a solder type connector. This valuable advice comes from both my professional and amateur experience. 73, de Nate __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
20 A with 1.2 volt drop? 24 watts, the connector would melt! Kurt From: vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com To: r...@cobi.biz; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Date: Fri, 25 Mar 2011 08:08:28 +1000 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
* On 2011 25 Mar 08:50 -0500, Don Wilhelm wrote: The most common reason for crimping instead of soldering is that the solder will wick up the wire a little ways, and if the wire is subject to being flexed, it will break right where the solder flow has ended. I don't believe the typical K3 power cord is going to be constantly flexed, so in this case soldering is just as good as crimping. For situations where vibration or movement of the cable is likely (mobile installation for example), then crimping would be the method of choice. Exactly. My installations of crimp connectors have been mainly in mobile environments (specifically RF Industries PL-259 connectors for RG-58 cable) and to date after several years, not one failure in railroad trucks and on track equipment, an environment which is not known for being gentle on anything. 73, de Nate N0NB -- The optimist proclaims that we live in the best of all possible worlds. The pessimist fears this is true. Ham radio, Linux, bikes, and more: http://www.n0nb.us __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Ron, Maybe I'm too anal but I bought the rather expensive crimp tool, and I crimp and also solder the PowerPole connectors. Maybe an overkill but I sleep like a baby. :-) Bob K6UJ On Mar 24, 2011, at 2:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Jeff, Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the APP connectors is 600 microohms. At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly (directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3 display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote: I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Ron, The same here. The APP offers a large contact area and low resistance when properly assembled. I think the key here is properly assembled. For those who think that almost like the manual diagrams is good enough, I have a revelation for you - the APP connector must be just like the manual - if it is not, you will experience flakey (a technical term) connections, excessive voltage drops, and loose APP connector fittings. Solder those connectors for lowest resistance, and do not get excessive solder on the outside of the blade - that should allow you to assemble the APP as indicated in the manual - if the blade does not click over the locking tongue, it is not properly assembled. BTW - all the radios I have with Molex connectors have a short DC cable attached, and that short cable is terminated in an APP connector. No problems with acquiring the right Molex connector and wiring it correctly - just do it once and the APP genderless connectors take care of the other potential problems. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Don W3FPR On 3/24/2011 5:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
*Hi All,* * * *I am not reading the same voltage drop as Jeff so maybe he is not getting a correct reading.* * * *Voltage drop on #679 is minimal..)0.01* * * *The display shows 0.3v from memory @ 100W* * * *73's* *Gary * On 25 March 2011 08:26, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote: Jeff, Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the APP connectors is 600 microohms. At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly (directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3 display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote: I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Hi Don, I have measured across the connectors as well as using the K3's display. Obviously the K3's display indicates worse than what it is but the fact remains that the voltage drop is unacceptable. I solder all my APP's, I don't believe that crimping connectors results in a good connection, particularly when your working with high current low[ish] voltage connections. I don't know how the connectors were fitted to the original cable that was supplied with my factory built K3 but it is significantly worse than cables I have made here so I assume that it is crimped. I have tried both genuine and non genuine APP's and neither instill any confidence in them for me. I'd rather use the 6 pin molex style connector that YaecomWood use as I have had less issues with those than I have ever had with APP's. however, as there is not enough room on the back panel for one of those style connectors, soldered wires to the mainboard will have to do. (With some sort of strain relief fitted obviously) 73 de Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm To: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Cc: Ron D'Eau Claire ; elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 8:26 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector Jeff, Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the APP connectors is 600 microohms. At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly (directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3 display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote: I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Something is wrong - No KIDDING Be very careful in blaming something that your test procedure is accurate and not faulty. Sometimes the eggs you get in your face are large enough to hurt. 73, de Jim KG0KP - Original Message - From: Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com To: Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF vk4bof.elecr...@gmail.com Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Thursday, March 24, 2011 4:26 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector Jeff, Something is wrong - the specification on the contact resistance of the APP connectors is 600 microohms. At a 20 amp current load, that should only result in a 0.012 volt drop across the connector. Are you certain you are measuring correctly (directly across the connector)? Or are you relying on the K2/K3 display voltage to determine the drop. Both have a series diode in-line, and the displayed voltage will be less than the power supply voltage - not due to the APP connector, but to the series diode. 73, Don W3FPR On 3/24/2011 6:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote: I have to admit that I am not a fan of APP's either. I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. That to my mind is not acceptable. So, once the warranty expires on my K3 (in May) I am going to ditch the APP's and solder a fly lead of 4mm twin lead wire directly to where the APP's were or look at some (better) alternatives. Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF Elecraft K3 # 4257 - Original Message - From: Ron D'Eau Claire To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Sent: Friday, March 25, 2011 7:55 AM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
I solder them too. What I do is push the wire up to the top of the contact, heat the little tube, and apply solder to the very top, the part closest to the contact surface. I'm careful to only use a minimum amount of solder. Because I've heated the tube, the solder flows into it, not onto the contact surface. This helps avoid the problem of the solder wicking back into the strands of the wire, making a stiff section right at the connector which can break. I too have never had any problems with these connectors. I solder all kinds of things. It makes me feel secure. Crimps make me nervous. On 3/24/2011 2:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -- Vic, K2VCO Fresno CA http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/ __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
Jeff, I've never seen a drop anywhere near this size across an APP connector. The contacts themselves are rated at something like 6 microohms resistance. How are you measuring the drop? The K3's supply voltage display is not a good way to measure the drop across just the connector, because the voltage shown reflects several other components' voltage drops. These include the reverse-polarity protection diode, the self-resetting fuse for the low-power circuitry, and the current-sense resistor. On keydown, even circuit traces will show a drop, as will the cable between the rig and the power supply. 73, Wayne N6KR On Mar 24, 2011, at 3:08 PM, Jeff Cochrane - VK4BOF wrote: I just cannot relate to the voltage drop across the connectors when drawing 20+A. On my rig (with its factory built cable) it approaches 1.2 Volt. (And yes, the connectors do get warm!) Even with decent cables that I have made using 4mm wire and 45Amp PP connectors I still see .6 to .8V drop. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] Anderson Powerpoll connector
For what it's worth Anderson Power Products does not recommend that PowerPoles be soldered. They are designed as a crimp connector. I have both a West Mountain crimper which does a good job and a genuine Anderson Power Products ratchet crimper that does a really excellent job. I have never experienced a voltage drop like was described here on properly installed connectors either in amateur radio equipment or in high performance electric RC airplanes where the currents were in the 40A range. Tim N9PUZ On 3/24/2011 5:39 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote: Ron, The same here. The APP offers a large contact area and low resistance when properly assembled. I think the key here is properly assembled. For those who think that almost like the manual diagrams is good enough, I have a revelation for you - the APP connector must be just like the manual - if it is not, you will experience flakey (a technical term) connections, excessive voltage drops, and loose APP connector fittings. Solder those connectors for lowest resistance, and do not get excessive solder on the outside of the blade - that should allow you to assemble the APP as indicated in the manual - if the blade does not click over the locking tongue, it is not properly assembled. BTW - all the radios I have with Molex connectors have a short DC cable attached, and that short cable is terminated in an APP connector. No problems with acquiring the right Molex connector and wiring it correctly - just do it once and the APP genderless connectors take care of the other potential problems. 73, Don W3FPR 73, Don W3FPR On 3/24/2011 5:55 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote: At the risk of re-energizing an old debate, I have *never* crimped a PowerPole connector and have *never* had a problem. All of mine are soldered just as Elecraft recommends if you don't have the correct crimp tool. In the APP Power Supply Cable Kit instruction sheet is a detailed cut-away drawing of how the APP connector contacts insert into the shell and lock for solid, reliable contact. Ron AC7AC -Original Message- I guess my problem is: after reaching a certain age I have developed a bag full of skills, which have served me very well for over a half century. Installing small connectors is a piece of cake, that is until I came against the APP. Didn't think needed to read the instruction sheet. After all, I should be able to correctly install this with my bag of knowledge, right? Now that I have achieved a higher level of connector expertise, I still prefer the Molex, but that's me. Also, something about having to buy a $30 crimper to do the right job tends to rub me in the wrong direction as well. Thanks for the bandwidth. BillHarris-w7kxb/7 (long live the KISS principal) From: k6...@me.com Date: Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:31:14 -0700 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Power Shut Down Resolved! When making up APP connectors, you have to be VERY sure that the little lip on the connecting pin (the part that's soldered onto the wire) extends completely into the plastic housing so that it locks itself over the metal part inside the plastic housing. Viewed from the side it looks something like this: =\ - \ where the double line (string of = signs) represents the connector that's soldered onto the wire, the diagonal slashes represent the lip at the end of that connector, and the single line of dashes represents the metal part of the plastic housing. If you can pull the wire out, it ain't locked in place. Once I realized this, I have never had a problem with APPs. Lew K6LMP __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email
