Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2
Sorry to hear of your problem, Ted, but I bet the K2 was cheaper than physical therapy. Hope it helps. I’m in phase 2 of the RF board, and having a blast. I can’t wait to fire up the synth and receiver. 73, Carl WS7L On Fri, Apr 16, 2021 at 11:46 AM wrote: > Carl – > > > > Just saw your note on the reflector. This morning I completed the RF > board on one I’ve been building since early February. Al the soldering is > done. The rest is the mechanical parts. > > > > It’s my fourth K2. One I keep as a contest backup, two I’ve sold, and > this one I am donating to a junior high school radio club. I do them > because the build is an extraordinary experience, made all the better by > the excellence of Elecraft’s engineering, (and their support when I’ve > needed it.) > > > > There was an additional reason for my doing this latest one. Not long ago > I suffered a hemorrhagic stroke that pretty well disabled both the sensory > and the fine motor control of my left arm and hand. (I can’t feel it when I > am holding a screw or nut in the fingers of my left hand, and trying to > manipulate something that small is damn near impossible.) I undertook this > build as a home-made form of physical therapy. It required some strange > adaptations on my part and some of it was slow going. We’ll see in another > few days whether it went together at is should. > > > > Whatever the outcome, I greatly enjoyed the ride. Nothing like it. > > > > Ted, KN1CBR > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Building a K2
Carl - Just saw your note on the reflector. This morning I completed the RF board on one I've been building since early February. Al the soldering is done. The rest is the mechanical parts. It's my fourth K2. One I keep as a contest backup, two I've sold, and this one I am donating to a junior high school radio club. I do them because the build is an extraordinary experience, made all the better by the excellence of Elecraft's engineering, (and their support when I've needed it.) There was an additional reason for my doing this latest one. Not long ago I suffered a hemorrhagic stroke that pretty well disabled both the sensory and the fine motor control of my left arm and hand. (I can't feel it when I am holding a screw or nut in the fingers of my left hand, and trying to manipulate something that small is damn near impossible.) I undertook this build as a home-made form of physical therapy. It required some strange adaptations on my part and some of it was slow going. We'll see in another few days whether it went together at is should. Whatever the outcome, I greatly enjoyed the ride. Nothing like it. Ted, KN1CBR __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Building a K2, a lot of fun
I was itching to build another kit so I picked up a K2 kit; It's been enjoyable to see it take shape over the past few weeks. I even wound up ordering a bunch of the options so I can stretch out the building process a bit more. I had forgotten how nice of a Kit the K2 was (I built my last one over 10 years ago). __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
Thanks all I have located a set From: Bill Johnson <k9...@live.com> To: 'Harry Yingst' <hlyin...@yahoo.com>; 'Elecraft Reflector' <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 9:14 PM Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e The only Re-Work eliminator I found helpful was the Mic connector. This made changing a mic easier, but you had to remove the side panel. I concur with Don's points on the rest. Only good if you wanted to remove add-ons or prep for future. If you build the radio with all the intended parts, then just go for it and skip all the headers. Great radio, a superior kit in so many, many ways. And a labor of fun and love. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:09 PM To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com>; Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e Harry and all, I included the electrical information in the post below, but I failed to mention the standoffs. If you want to include the full "homebrew Rework Eliminators", you will have to add the standoffs for each option. Refer to the Elecraft manuals for each option and order the required standoffs and mounting hardware if you want to do a complete job. If you do not want to remove the K2 heatsink when adding options, you should order the 2 pin header for P6 (KAT2 manual or KPA100 manual), the standoff for the K160RX and the standoff for the K60XV. Those are the ones that are covered by the K2 heatsink. The other standoffs can be easily added without removing the heatsink - just remove the bottom cover. 73, Don W3FPR --- Harry, If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there is little need for the Rework Eliminators. There is very little rework when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2 requires 3 resistors to be changed). A careful perusal of the installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to add. The headers required come with the options that you purchase initially. For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual rework eliminators. Download and identify the headers required. The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the K60XV. I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to install. The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins. For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1. For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers. For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location. Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a 680 ohm. The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between pins 6 and 5. For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12 pin header at J11. bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do not install C167. That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the K60XV option. Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually installed. If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3 pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board. You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leave out W6 jumper). BUT change the value of C71 and add D19/D20 as well as the coax cable only after you have the K60XV option built - that is only one capacitor to change. If you want to install the headers a
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
I any case I do have a spare Rework Eliminator set if you want it. Brian Denley KB1VBF Sent from my iPad __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
I believe the IMA is still available from unPCBs.com. That is not part of the Rework Eliminators, but a separate product. If you want to try several different microphones with the K2, it is an easy way to do that. If you have only one microphone that you want to use with the K2, it is not necessary - plug the K2 microphone configuration header for your desired microphone and let it go at that. The IMA is handy for those who want to use microphones from various rigs with the K2. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2017 9:14 PM, Bill Johnson wrote: The only Re-Work eliminator I found helpful was the Mic connector. This made changing a mic easier, but you had to remove the side panel. I concur with Don's points on the rest. Only good if you wanted to remove add-ons or prep for future. If you build the radio with all the intended parts, then just go for it and skip all the headers. Great radio, a superior kit in so many, many ways. And a labor of fun and love. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:09 PM To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com>; Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e Harry and all, I included the electrical information in the post below, but I failed to mention the standoffs. If you want to include the full "homebrew Rework Eliminators", you will have to add the standoffs for each option. Refer to the Elecraft manuals for each option and order the required standoffs and mounting hardware if you want to do a complete job. If you do not want to remove the K2 heatsink when adding options, you should order the 2 pin header for P6 (KAT2 manual or KPA100 manual), the standoff for the K160RX and the standoff for the K60XV. Those are the ones that are covered by the K2 heatsink. The other standoffs can be easily added without removing the heatsink - just remove the bottom cover. 73, Don W3FPR --- Harry, If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there is little need for the Rework Eliminators. There is very little rework when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2 requires 3 resistors to be changed). A careful perusal of the installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to add. The headers required come with the options that you purchase initially. For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual rework eliminators. Download and identify the headers required. The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the K60XV. I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to install. The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins. For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1. For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers. For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location. Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a 680 ohm. The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between pins 6 and 5. For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12 pin header at J11. bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do not install C167. That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the K60XV option. Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually installed. If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3 pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board. You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leav
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
The only Re-Work eliminator I found helpful was the Mic connector. This made changing a mic easier, but you had to remove the side panel. I concur with Don's points on the rest. Only good if you wanted to remove add-ons or prep for future. If you build the radio with all the intended parts, then just go for it and skip all the headers. Great radio, a superior kit in so many, many ways. And a labor of fun and love. 73, Bill K9YEQ -Original Message- From: Elecraft [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:09 PM To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com>; Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e Harry and all, I included the electrical information in the post below, but I failed to mention the standoffs. If you want to include the full "homebrew Rework Eliminators", you will have to add the standoffs for each option. Refer to the Elecraft manuals for each option and order the required standoffs and mounting hardware if you want to do a complete job. If you do not want to remove the K2 heatsink when adding options, you should order the 2 pin header for P6 (KAT2 manual or KPA100 manual), the standoff for the K160RX and the standoff for the K60XV. Those are the ones that are covered by the K2 heatsink. The other standoffs can be easily added without removing the heatsink - just remove the bottom cover. 73, Don W3FPR --- Harry, If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there is little need for the Rework Eliminators. There is very little rework when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2 requires 3 resistors to be changed). A careful perusal of the installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to add. The headers required come with the options that you purchase initially. For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual rework eliminators. Download and identify the headers required. The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the K60XV. I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to install. The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins. For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1. For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers. For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location. Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a 680 ohm. The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between pins 6 and 5. For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12 pin header at J11. bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do not install C167. That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the K60XV option. Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually installed. If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3 pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board. You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leave out W6 jumper). BUT change the value of C71 and add D19/D20 as well as the coax cable only after you have the K60XV option built - that is only one capacitor to change. If you want to install the headers at P3 and P6, you can do that at any time - no jumpers are required - one header is supplied with the KAT2 option and another with the KBT2 - both are supplied with the KPA100 kit. So there you have the complete instructions for installing the "Rework Eliminators" without buying the full ki
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
Harry and all, I included the electrical information in the post below, but I failed to mention the standoffs. If you want to include the full "homebrew Rework Eliminators", you will have to add the standoffs for each option. Refer to the Elecraft manuals for each option and order the required standoffs and mounting hardware if you want to do a complete job. If you do not want to remove the K2 heatsink when adding options, you should order the 2 pin header for P6 (KAT2 manual or KPA100 manual), the standoff for the K160RX and the standoff for the K60XV. Those are the ones that are covered by the K2 heatsink. The other standoffs can be easily added without removing the heatsink - just remove the bottom cover. 73, Don W3FPR --- Harry, If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there is little need for the Rework Eliminators. There is very little rework when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2 requires 3 resistors to be changed). A careful perusal of the installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to add. The headers required come with the options that you purchase initially. For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual rework eliminators. Download and identify the headers required. The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the K60XV. I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to install. The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins. For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1. For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers. For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location. Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a 680 ohm. The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between pins 6 and 5. For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12 pin header at J11. bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do not install C167. That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the K60XV option. Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually installed. If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3 pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board. You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leave out W6 jumper). BUT change the value of C71 and add D19/D20 as well as the coax cable only after you have the K60XV option built - that is only one capacitor to change. If you want to install the headers at P3 and P6, you can do that at any time - no jumpers are required - one header is supplied with the KAT2 option and another with the KBT2 - both are supplied with the KPA100 kit. So there you have the complete instructions for installing the "Rework Eliminators" without buying the full kit. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2017 6:28 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote: I decided to build another K2 (since I foolishly sold my first one) I figured this time around I would use some Rework Eliminators. When I checked unpcb.com I found that they no longer stock them. Does anyone have an unused set with the additional components (full kit) that they want to sell? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
Thank you From: Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> To: Harry Yingst <hlyin...@yahoo.com>; Elecraft Reflector <elecraft@mailman.qth.net> Sent: Friday, January 27, 2017 8:12 PM Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e Harry, If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there is little need for the Rework Eliminators. There is very little rework when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2 requires 3 resistors to be changed). A careful perusal of the installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to add. The headers required come with the options that you purchase initially. For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual rework eliminators. Download and identify the headers required. The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the K60XV. I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to install. The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins. For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1. For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers. For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location. Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a 680 ohm. The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between pins 6 and 5. For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12 pin header at J11. bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do not install C167. That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the K60XV option. Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually installed. If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3 pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board. You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leave out W6 jumper). BUT change the value of C71 and add D19/D20 as well as the coax cable only after you have the K60XV option built - that is only one capacitor to change. If you want to install the headers at P3 and P6, you can do that at any time - no jumpers are required - one header is supplied with the KAT2 option and another with the KBT2 - both are supplied with the KPA100 kit. So there you have the complete instructions for installing the "Rework Eliminators" without buying the full kit. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2017 6:28 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote: > > I decided to build another K2 (since I foolishly sold my first one) I figured > this time around I would use some Rework Eliminators. > > When I checked unpcb.com I found that they no longer stock them. > > Does anyone have an unused set with the additional components (full kit) that > they want to sell? > __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
Harry, If you are ordering the options you want to include with the K2, there is little need for the Rework Eliminators. There is very little rework when adding options - the "Rework" consists mainly of removing the jumpers that are normally installed when building up the basic CW K2 and removing/changing at most one capacitor for each option (the KNB2 requires 3 resistors to be changed). A careful perusal of the installation procedure in the manuals for the options that you wish to add. The headers required come with the options that you purchase initially. For those options that you may want to add later, it is a simple matter to install the female headers on the RF board and Control Board and use wire jumpers, and perhaps a capacitor or two in place of the actual rework eliminators. Download and identify the headers required. The most complex part of the rework eliminators is the KNB2 and the K60XV. I do not recommend making the board changes (C71 value and D19/D20 addition) until you actually have the K60XV option ready to install. The "Rework Eliminator" boards that you need are easily fabricated on perfboard and strips of male pins. For the K160RX, you need only the header and a bent component lead for a jumper - stick the jumper wire in the header and do not install W1. For the KAF2, you need only the 3 pin and 5 pin female headers mounted on the Control Board - do not install the wires for R18 and R19, but stick jumper wires made from component leads into the headers. For the KNB2, you will need the perfboard and 8 pin male header - on the RF board install a 2.7k resistor at R88 and a wire at the R89 location. Your plug-in "eliminator" needs 3 resistors - a 470 ohm, a 100 ohm and a 680 ohm. The 470 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 5, the 100 ohm resistor goes between pins 1 and 6, and the 680 ohm resistor between pins 6 and 5. For the KSB2, you need to install 3 pin headers at J9 and J10 and a 12 pin header at J11. bend 2 wire jumpers to plug into J9 and J10 - from pin 1 to pin 3 (do not install W2 and W3) and on a 12 pin male header strip on perfboard solder a .001uF capacitor between pins 7 and 12 - do not install C167. That takes care of all the "homebrew Rework eliminators" except the K60XV option. Since I do not recommend installing that until the K60XV option is built and ready to install, I have left that off the list. The VFO and PLL R30 voltages change with the addition of the K60XV changes and cannot be properly tested until the K60XV option is actually installed. If you want to do a partial install of the K60XV, put a 3 pin female header at J15 and put the leads of the 4.7pF capacitor into pins 1 and 3 of that header rather than soldering it to the RF board. You can also install the 8 pin female header at J13 and put a wire jumper between pins 3 and 5 (leave out W6 jumper). BUT change the value of C71 and add D19/D20 as well as the coax cable only after you have the K60XV option built - that is only one capacitor to change. If you want to install the headers at P3 and P6, you can do that at any time - no jumpers are required - one header is supplied with the KAT2 option and another with the KBT2 - both are supplied with the KPA100 kit. So there you have the complete instructions for installing the "Rework Eliminators" without buying the full kit. 73, Don W3FPR On 1/27/2017 6:28 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote: I decided to build another K2 (since I foolishly sold my first one) I figured this time around I would use some Rework Eliminators. When I checked unpcb.com I found that they no longer stock them. Does anyone have an unused set with the additional components (full kit) that they want to sell? __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
[Elecraft] Building a K2, Does anyime have a set of rework e
I decided to build another K2 (since I foolishly sold my first one) I figured this time around I would use some Rework Eliminators. When I checked unpcb.com I found that they no longer stock them. Does anyone have an unused set with the additional components (full kit) that they want to sell? Thank you __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html Message delivered to arch...@mail-archive.com
Re: [Elecraft] Building a K2
Wayne, It looks like somehow the plated thru-hole was damaged somehow - that is unusual, but you proved it can happen. From your photo location, It looks to be R12 instead of R18. R12 is an 820 ohm resistor, R18 is just a jumper wire. Looking at Tom Hammond's board images (available for download at www.n0ss.net), that you are OK - solder it on the bottom side (same side the resistor is located). Just to make sure the entire network is intact, after soldering it (on the bottom side), use your ohmmeter and check for continuity from that lead to P2 pin 10, P4 pin 10, and the non-grounded side of C11 - put one lead on R12 and the other lead on the points mentioned. Just for completeness, check the other side of the resistor too - it should show continuity to U6 pin 2. If all those checks are OK, then you are good to go - if any of them fail, you can use wire to connect the points that have no continuity - all is not lost, it can be repaired. If that solder pad lifted by just inserting the resistor lead, then the thru-plated hole may have been defective (very unusual), but if the pad lifted when you attempted to solder it, take note and turn your soldering iron temperature down, it was too hot. 73, Don W3FPR On 4/16/2011 2:46 PM, Tom Martha wrote: Hello Don, Recently I've decided to purchase a K2 in lieu of the K3. I'm pretty much just a cw and weak signal buff tending to work dx and participating in a few contests, I'm an active member of the SKCC (Straight Key Century Club). I mostly do my logging manually but would like to learn about logging via rig/computer control and the K2 should fit the bill. For many years my rig has been a TS830S but recently acquired a TS180S to play with and REALLY like it's solid state (very little) tuningguess I'm getting lazy in my old age (70)! Anyway, my question ishow much do you charge to assemble a bare bones K2? Later, I will add the amp filters, etc. myself. 73 W4TMW Tom Warren Hartwell, GA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
[Elecraft] building a K2
Hi, If I order a package including K2, KPA100, KSB2, KNB2, and K160RX and start to do the assembly I wonder if in the assembly process I will come to certain stages where there will be a question whether a certain module is going to be installed. If yes, do this and if not do that. I understand that if certain modules are installed after basic assembly some back tracking is required. I love building equipment ... over the years i have built any number of kits ... mostly the old Heathkits as well as any number of homebrew transmitters and receivers. It will be like old home weak ... to see how the K2 comes together and works compared to the old HW100 which worked wonderfully for many years. Jim, VE3CI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] building a K2
I understand that if certain modules are installed after basic assembly some back tracking is required. It is very little backtracking. Standard advice used to be to build the basic K2 first and get it running properly. Then add in each option after the basic K2 is up. Most options require installing a header or two and removing a few jumpers -- as I said, not a lot of backtracking. Mark AD5SS __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] building a K2
Jim, Yes, there is a page in the manual where it tells you that you can install parts like the headers and standoffs for the options. The only one that you should not pre-install is the K60XV, and the manual also tells you that. Leave the jumpers for the options in place until you have the basic K2 up and running, then follow the installation instructions for each option. If you were building your 10th K2, I might advise you differently, but for the first 10 - follow the manual instructions, things are less complicated that way. 73, Don W3FPR Jim Dunstan wrote: Hi, If I order a package including K2, KPA100, KSB2, KNB2, and K160RX and start to do the assembly I wonder if in the assembly process I will come to certain stages where there will be a question whether a certain module is going to be installed. If yes, do this and if not do that. I understand that if certain modules are installed after basic assembly some back tracking is required. __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] building a K2
Jim... You might consider using the ReWork Eliminators [sic]. I used them in my build - just like yours - and was very pleased with the results. ...robert Jim Dunstan wrote: Hi, If I order a package including K2, KPA100, KSB2, KNB2, and K160RX and start to do the assembly I wonder if in the assembly process I will come to certain stages where there will be a question whether a certain module is going to be installed. If yes, do this and if not do that. I understand that if certain modules are installed after basic assembly some back tracking is required. I love building equipment ... over the years i have built any number of kits ... mostly the old Heathkits as well as any number of homebrew transmitters and receivers. It will be like old home weak ... to see how the K2 comes together and works compared to the old HW100 which worked wonderfully for many years. Jim, VE3CI __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html -- Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY rc...@verizon.net Syracuse, New York, USA __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
Re: [Elecraft] building a K2
Thu Feb 25 18:35:50 EST 2010 Jim Dunstan (VE3CI) wrote: If I order a package including K2, KPA100, KSB2, KNB2, and K160RX and start to do the assembly ... I understand that if certain modules are installed after basic assembly some back tracking is required. Hi Jim, If you follow the traditional assembly instructions offered in the Elecraft K2 manual, then some minor disassembly and simply PCB rework will be required on your K2's main RF board when the time comes to install the KSB2 and KNB2 options. (In contrast, if you were to purchase just the K2 and build it prior purchasing these options, then you would need to completely disassemble your K2 to add them later!) As an alternative, the website http://www.unpcbs.com/ provides detailed instructions for a building your K2 so you can add these options at any time, while not having to perform any significant disassembly or PCB rework inside your K2. This alternate assembly method makes use of Option Bypass Headers (also known as un-modules). Beyond the options you are planning to purchase, you can also use this option ready method to build your K2 so that you can later add the KAF2, KDSP2, and/or K60XV without the need for significant disassembly of the Enclosure, or the need for any PCB rework to your K2. --- - - - --- Another K2 accessory offered by unpcbs.com is an internal mic adaptor which makes it really easy to configure your K2 to support any of 55 microphones. Although, the adaptor's main benefit is that it dramatically simplifies the task of reconfiguring your K2 for a different mic connector pin-out once you've finished building it, (should you ever wish to do so). Instead of having to remove the Control board to access the mic configuration header on the back of the K2's Front Panel board, all that's required is to remove the left side panel of the K2 and reconfigure the adaptor's jumper block. The adaptor also supports jumper selection of the necessary external bias resistance. BTW, if you don't purchase the Rework Eliminator(TM) K2 Internal Mic Adaptor, then it might be necessary for you to significantly disassemble the front portion of your K2 if only to tack solder an appropriate bias resistor onto the back of the mic connector (on the back of the Front Panel PCB). 73, Gary KI4GGX K2 #4067 unpcbs.com webmaster __ Elecraft mailing list Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
