[Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Andreas Hofmann
Hi,

I put together my new K3 without any issues. My 8 and 10 year old daughters 
helped and they really enjoyed it too. Overall I am very happy with its 
performance.  I do not seem to need PRE on the high bands as much, but I do 
seem to need ATT on the low bands more...  I guess that is by design. I have a 
few things I need to figure out and the manual does not seem to help:


1.   DUAL PB, APF. I am not sure I get the APF to work. I do not hear or 
see the middle peak of the filter. I think I only get DUAL PB, no matter what I 
set in the config menu.  I am using the latest FW. Any ideas how to verify?

2.   NR:  I like how the noise goes away, but I do not like the 
under-the-water sound (K2 owner, no DSP experience).  I seem to switch 
constantly back and forth... I am using the default setting for NR (F1-1). Is 
there a way to back off the setting slightly to have a better compromise 
setting?

3.   KPA3 temp: The fans are MUCH quieter as my K2's which is good, but I 
do worry that I have not setup something right...When I monitor the KPA3 
temperature, what is the max value that I should watch out for? I am getting up 
to 41 C during casual operation.

Thanks in advance and 73,
Andy
KU7T
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Ian Kahn - Ham
Andy,

Congratulations on the new K3!  I've had mine about three years and love it.
I can only answer one part of one question for you - the Dual PB comes into
play only in RTTY operations.  It shouldn't enabled for other modes.  To
help you learn about your K3, you might consider purchasing Fred Cady's
book, The Elecraft K3:  Design, Configuration, and Operation, from Lulu.com
(http://www.lulu.com/shop/search.ep?keyWords=Fred+Cadytype=Not+Servicesite
search=lulu.comq=).  It will tell you all you need to know, and then some,
about the K3.  And, no, Fred isn't giving me kick-backs for promoting his
book.  I'm just another happy customer with no financial interest (unless
you count knowing how to run the multi-thousands of dollars piece of
equipment at my operating station).

Hope this helps.

73 de,

-- Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688, KPA500 #1468
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Andreas Hofmann
Sent: Monday, March 10, 2014 1:07 PM
To: 'elecraft@mailman.qth.net'
Subject: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR
under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

Hi,

I put together my new K3 without any issues. My 8 and 10 year old daughters
helped and they really enjoyed it too. Overall I am very happy with its
performance.  I do not seem to need PRE on the high bands as much, but I do
seem to need ATT on the low bands more...  I guess that is by design. I have
a few things I need to figure out and the manual does not seem to help:


1.   DUAL PB, APF. I am not sure I get the APF to work. I do not hear or
see the middle peak of the filter. I think I only get DUAL PB, no matter
what I set in the config menu.  I am using the latest FW. Any ideas how to
verify?

2.   NR:  I like how the noise goes away, but I do not like the
under-the-water sound (K2 owner, no DSP experience).  I seem to switch
constantly back and forth... I am using the default setting for NR (F1-1).
Is there a way to back off the setting slightly to have a better compromise
setting?

3.   KPA3 temp: The fans are MUCH quieter as my K2's which is good, but
I do worry that I have not setup something right...When I monitor the KPA3
temperature, what is the max value that I should watch out for? I am getting
up to 41 C during casual operation.

Thanks in advance and 73,
Andy
KU7T
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Sam Morgan

I saved this gem of a post from Jack WA9FVP


Re: [Elecraft] [K3]Noise Filter (NF) ADJ

wa9fvp Thu, 27 Dec 2012 16:19:36 -0800

There's no documentation but as far as I can tell--

F1-x through F4-x defines the amount of noise reduction or how aggressive
the filter attacks the I.F. noise.  F5-X through F8-X defines the amount of
reduction and the level that's mixed with the filtered and non-filtered 
I.F.

Note that m which means mix will appear after F5-X and above.


X defines the delay.  Delay is the amount of time it takes for the filter to
converge on a non-sinusoidal signal or the noise.   The higher the number,
the longer it takes for the noise to reduce to a low level.

I hope this helps.

Jack WA9FVP

F1-x through F4-x are for CW
F5-x through F8-x are for SSB


On 3/10/2014 12:06 PM, Andreas Hofmann wrote:

Hi,

I put together my new K3 without any issues. My 8 and 10 year old daughters 
helped and they really enjoyed it too. Overall I am very happy with its 
performance.  I do not seem to need PRE on the high bands as much, but I do 
seem to need ATT on the low bands more...  I guess that is by design. I have a 
few things I need to figure out and the manual does not seem to help:


1.   DUAL PB, APF. I am not sure I get the APF to work. I do not hear or 
see the middle peak of the filter. I think I only get DUAL PB, no matter what I 
set in the config menu.  I am using the latest FW. Any ideas how to verify?

2.   NR:  I like how the noise goes away, but I do not like the 
under-the-water sound (K2 owner, no DSP experience).  I seem to switch 
constantly back and forth... I am using the default setting for NR (F1-1). Is 
there a way to back off the setting slightly to have a better compromise 
setting?

3.   KPA3 temp: The fans are MUCH quieter as my K2's which is good, but I 
do worry that I have not setup something right...When I monitor the KPA3 
temperature, what is the max value that I should watch out for? I am getting up 
to 41 C during casual operation.

Thanks in advance and 73,
Andy
KU7T



--
GB  73
K5OAI
Sam Morgan
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Phil Wheeler
Regarding the APF there are a couple of notes (in 
the KX3 area!) which may help:


http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/tips/Using%20APF%20for%20weak%20signal%20CW%20work%20the%20K3%20and%20KX3.pdf

http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/tips/Using%20APF%20with%20the%20K3%20and%20KX3.pdf

Phil

On 3/10/14, 10:06 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote:

Hi,

I put together my new K3 without any issues. My 8 and 10 year old daughters 
helped and they really enjoyed it too. Overall I am very happy with its 
performance.  I do not seem to need PRE on the high bands as much, but I do 
seem to need ATT on the low bands more...  I guess that is by design. I have a 
few things I need to figure out and the manual does not seem to help:


1.   DUAL PB, APF. I am not sure I get the APF to work. I do not hear or 
see the middle peak of the filter. I think I only get DUAL PB, no matter what I 
set in the config menu.  I am using the latest FW. Any ideas how to verify?


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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Phil Wheeler
And in the Config Menu you need to set DUAL PB to 
APF vs. nor


Phil

On 3/10/14, 11:38 AM, Phil Wheeler wrote:
Regarding the APF there are a couple of notes 
(in the KX3 area!) which may help:


http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/tips/Using%20APF%20for%20weak%20signal%20CW%20work%20the%20K3%20and%20KX3.pdf 



http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/tips/Using%20APF%20with%20the%20K3%20and%20KX3.pdf 



Phil

On 3/10/14, 10:06 AM, Andreas Hofmann wrote:

Hi,

I put together my new K3 without any issues. My 
8 and 10 year old daughters helped and they 
really enjoyed it too. Overall I am very happy 
with its performance.  I do not seem to need 
PRE on the high bands as much, but I do seem to 
need ATT on the low bands more...  I guess that 
is by design. I have a few things I need to 
figure out and the manual does not seem to help:



1.   DUAL PB, APF. I am not sure I get the 
APF to work. I do not hear or see the middle 
peak of the filter. I think I only get DUAL PB, 
no matter what I set in the config menu.  I am 
using the latest FW. Any ideas how to verify?






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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Richard Ferch

Hi Andy,

1. The Dual PB/APF button has multiple functions. First of all, it is 
different in CW than in RTTY, and it doesn't do anything in other modes 
(SSB, DATA A, etc.).


In CW, the Dual PB button has two functions, depending on whether 
CONFIG:DUAL PB is set to APF or NOR.


In the APF configuration in CW, it is a very narrow audio peaking 
filter. Tuning of signals is touchy - even a 10-20 Hz change can make 
the difference between copy and no copy on a weak signal. The APF 
doesn't do much for strong signals - it's for pulling very weak CW 
signals out of the noise.


In the NOR configuration in CW, the dual PB filter gives you a stepped 
filter bandpass, with a 150 Hz center portion set within a broader 
context bandpass about 20 dB down from the central bandpass; the width 
of the broader context bandpass is controlled by the WIDTH control. 
The effect is most obvious when WIDTH is set wide, say to 700-1000 Hz. 
Without the DUAL PB, signals several hundred Hz away but within the 
bandpass are strong; with DUAL PB, they are attenuated but still 
audible, although not as strong as signals within the narrower central 
bandpass; when WIDTH is narrowed down, with or without DUAL PB signals 
that far away become inaudible. When WIDTH is at, say, 400 Hz or so, the 
effect of the DUAL PB setting is not quite as obvious - the stepped 
response is not all that different from what you may be used to using 
normal crystal filtering without DSP.


In RTTY (FSK D or AFSK A), the Dual PB button gives you a dual peak 
filter peaked on the two tones of the RTTY signal. In theory, this 
actually degrades the performance of a well-designed demodulator, so you 
might be better off not using it routinely, but in the situation where 
there are two overlapping RTTY signals with the mark or space of the 
interfering signal in between the mark and space of the one you are 
trying to work, it may help reduce the interference.


2. I can't help with NR.

3. KPA3 temp: at 41C, from a thermal point of view your PA is loafing. 
In heavier use (RTTY or heavy CW contesting use), it will climb up into 
the 50s or even the low 60s (depends on the ambient temperature, of 
course), and the fans will speed up. You can hear what the fans sound 
like at the different speed levels by using the CONFIG:KPA3 menu and 
changing it temporarily from NOR to FN1, FN2, FN3 or FN4. I don't think 
I have ever gotten my PA temp high enough to switch to the FN4 level 
automatically (somewhere around 65-70C, perhaps?), but I have reached 
the FN2 and FN3 levels during contests (FN3 mostly in RTTY). The KPA3 is 
supposed to protect itself by shutting off at 84C, but I've never seen 
anything approaching that level.


You may see the PA TEMP indication change slightly during transmit as 
compared to receive. I believe this is caused by the voltage difference 
between TX and RX (if for no other reason than resistive losses in the 
power cable). You can set the PA TEMP display to RX-only if necessary to 
avoid this effect.


73,
Rich VE3KI
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner, couple of questions (APF vs. DUAL PB, NR under the water sound, KPA3 temp)

2014-03-10 Thread Jack
Not using the dual pass-band mode, due to the degradation Rich notes, is 
the consensus of some of the best RTTY contest operators of our 
acquaintance.


Jack, W6NF/VE4SNA
Shelley, K7MKL

On 3/10/2014 1:21 PM, Richard Ferch wrote:



In RTTY (FSK D or AFSK A), the Dual PB button gives you a dual peak 
filter peaked on the two tones of the RTTY signal. In theory, this 
actually degrades the performance of a well-designed demodulator, so 
you might be better off not using it routinely, but in the situation 
where there are two overlapping RTTY signals with the mark or space of 
the interfering signal in between the mark and space of the one you 
are trying to work, it may help reduce the interference.



73,
Rich VE3KI



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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-19 Thread Edward R Cole


Phil and Don,

Lighting is key to seeing detail, small objects.  In high light the 
pupil constricts and depth of vision improves.  These concepts well 
known to camera buffs.  Want sharp image get higher light levels, 
better f-stops, shorter exposure time.  I used to have a macro-lens 
for a 35mm film camera (both sold long ago in favor of digital camera).


I have both a fluorescent fixture over my work surface and an 
illuminated round magnifier lamp.  Some day I will get one the 
jeweler's head magnifier's.  I have noticed my normal short-sighted 
ness going longer of late.  But so far do not wear glasses for the 
near work.  I do wear glasses for driving.


Somewhere I acquired a small round magnifier lens which I can also 
use.  But good light is necessary for doing surface mount assembly.


Ed - KL7UW
---
On Jan 18, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
 Phil,

 Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. 
My solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was 
designed for reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I 
found it at Walmart.


 Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely

 73,
 Don W3FPR


73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Edward R Cole
Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts 
list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar 
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large 
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many 
dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to 
remove from packaging until you install them.


Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing 
usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the 
instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use 
pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in 
diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before 
I go too far.


K3/10 sn 4340
KX3 sn 475

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
dubus...@gmail.com

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Fred Smith
As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static mat
in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the same
potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that can
be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the ground
screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the receptacle is
properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive tester that can be
found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical department.  Driving a
ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in itself be a hazard if it is
not connected to the utility entrance ground stake with a #6 or larger
copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to keep everything at the same
potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped screwheads
can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell you to use a
magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at my workbench -
they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in places where Murphy
says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do an
inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, there
will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
 Hi. I've just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.


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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread WILLIS COOKE
Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw Driver 
and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that you 
bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep them 
with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read the 
instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back.  If 
you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you 
still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything 
read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the 
instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand each 
step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug 
and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When 
assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it 
a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful and 
forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step is 
important and must be done correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



 From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 

Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Matt Zilmer
More advice:

Be sure you're using the correct hardware (especially screws) by
measuring them as suggested in the assembly manual.  We get a
significant number of kits returned with chassis or other short
circuits due to long  wrong screws being used.

73,
matt W6NIA

On Sat, 18 Jan 2014 08:06:23 -0800 (PST), you wrote:

Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that 
you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep 
them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read 
the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to back. 
 If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  If you 
still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do anything 
read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  Follow the 
instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you understand 
each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you have the right 
plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  
When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can 
move it a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
 and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step 
 is important and must be done correctly.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart

Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
www.elecraft.com
831-763-4211  x129
Skype: matt.zilmer

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Tighe Kuykendall
Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've 
found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside 
from good tools and a big static mat.  It puts light exactly where I'm 
looking and makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without 
having to move, rotate, or otherwise disturb the assembly I'm working on.


73, Tighe


--
Tighe Kuykendall
NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become worn 
over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges -- any 
rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will result 
in stripped screw heads more often.

Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and clean 
up those old screwdrivers.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
 Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers that 
 you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if not keep 
 them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a static mat, read 
 the instructions and use it.  Read the construction manual from front to 
 back.  If you don't understand them, read them again and again until you do.  
 If you still don't understand them, get help until you do.  Before you do 
 anything read the appropriate part again so you really know what to do.  
 Follow the instructions in the order the manual prescribes and be sure you 
 understand each step.  When you need to plug in a part, make sure that you 
 have the right plug and socket then use as much force as required to seat the 
 plug fully.  When assembling something, if it will not go, loosen some screws 
 so you can move it a little then be sure to
 tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
 and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every step 
 is important and must be done correctly.
  
 Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
 K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
 
 From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
 To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
 Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
 Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 
 
 Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
 properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
 73,
 Carl Yaffey  K8NU
 Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
 recording studio.
 cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
 614 268 6353, Columbus OH
 http://www.carl-yaffey.com
 http://www.grassahol.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts 
such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like 
the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 
there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the 
printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying 
lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and 
use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.

If anyone has a better solution to this problem -- let me know.  Eye sight only 
gets worse, it rarely gets better.  Electronic parts only get smaller, they 
rarely get larger.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 9:23 AM, Tighe Kuykendall t...@nk4i.com wrote:

 Having relatively recently built a K3, P3, KPA500, KX3, and KXPA100 I've 
 found my little Petzl LED headlamp to be one of handiest things aside from 
 good tools and a big static mat.  It puts light exactly where I'm looking and 
 makes it easy to check pin alignment and the like without having to move, 
 rotate, or otherwise disturb the assembly I'm working on.
 
 73, Tighe
 
 
 -- 
 Tighe Kuykendall
 NK4I  |  www.NK4I.com  |  Follow Me on Twitter: @NK4I
 ARRL Life Member, NAQCC #6467
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-18 Thread Don Wilhelm

Phil,

Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My 
solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was designed 
for reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I found it at 
Walmart.


Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/18/2014 1:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small parts 
such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT kits like 
the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option for my KX1 
there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work to read the 
printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying glasses, a magnifying 
lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had to grab my Fluke DVM and 
use that to measure the capacitance to determine which was which.



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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Charlie T, K3ICH
If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any service 
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS (Japanese 
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different from the 
Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are usually 
identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the cross 
slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and Japanese 
imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.


73, Charlie k3ICH



- Original Message - 
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com

To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will become 
worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp edges --  
any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new screwdrivers) will 
result in stripped screw heads more often.


Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular) and 
clean up those old screwdrivers.


73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com wrote:

Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips Screw 
Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap screwdrivers 
that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them away, if 
not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.  Buy a 
static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the construction 
manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read them again 
and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get help 
until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part again so 
you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order the 
manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you need to 
plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket then use 
as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling 
something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move it a 
little then be sure to
tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be careful 
and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but every 
step is important and must be done correctly.


Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.

73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread PA2V
Hi Carl.
I am a new K3 owner too.
Finished my K3 a month ago (SN7819).
Assembling the kit is fun. As stated before: Take your time.
I used all anti-static and good tools.  Used a wrist strap and anti-static
mat.
The mat and my wrist strap were grounded to the house safety earth.
All boards and components are very well indicated and the manuals are clear.
Except the Operating manual. This feels a bit minimal. 
But don't worry. The support from Elecraft is quite okay.
QRP-project in Germany, Elecraft's representative in Europe did very well.
I also experienced fast response from Elecraft USA too. 
No problem to make it a proper job. Read, read and re-read the manuals.
And when you finally can run the rig, be prepared to have a long and
pleasant learning curve.
73, Peter PA2V



Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2014 01:07:58 -0900
From: Edward R Cole kl...@acsalaska.net
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
Message-ID: 201401181007.s0ia7whn036...@huffman.acsalaska.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts 
list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar 
looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large 
Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many 
dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to 
remove from packaging until you install them.

Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing 
usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the 
instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use 
pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in 
diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before 
I go too far.

K3/10 sn 4340
KX3 sn 475

73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
 Kits made by KL7UW
Dubus Mag business:
 dubus...@gmail.com



--

Message: 6
Date: Sat, 18 Jan 2014 04:43:18 -0600
From: Fred Smith m...@totalhighspeed.com
To: d...@w3fpr.com,   elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
Message-ID: 001701cf143a$19e9dfd0$4dbd9f70$@com
Content-Type: text/plain;   charset=us-ascii

As Don stated prepare yourself for a new level of transceiver performance,
it does take some getting used to 8)


73,
Fred/N0AZZ
K3 Ser # 6730--KX3 # 5210--K2/100 # 6470-KAT100
P3/SVGA--KAT500--W2
Amps Elecraft KPA500 HF/6m--Alpha's 9500 HF--87A HF--Mirage B-5030-G
300+w--(2) B-5016-G's 165w 2m



-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:52 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static mat
in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the same
potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that can
be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the ground
screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the receptacle is
properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive tester that can be
found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical department.  Driving a
ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in itself be a hazard if it is
not connected to the utility entrance ground stake with a #6 or larger
copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to keep everything at the same
potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your
safety.

2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped screwheads
can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell you to use a
magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at my workbench -
they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in places where Murphy
says they will cause the most damage.

Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do an
inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, there
will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.

Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:
 Hi. I've just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.



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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Smith
Everything Ed said; Check.

I used 18 egg, egg cartons to hold parts and cut card stock in 
strips, labelled them according to small part  then taped them in 
the individual egg holders with those parts in the egg socket. 
Didn't knock over like cups would have and kept everything separate 
till the end. No spare parts when I was done.

Gary
KA1J

 P.S.; Good choice, the K3!


 Spend the time to check off all parts against the parts 
 list.  Ensures all is there and aquaints you with many similar 
 looking screws (so you don't use the wrong ones).  I bought a large
 Plano plastic parts box (like a fishing tackle box) with many 
 dividers to place the sorted parts.  Some items it is best not to 
 remove from packaging until you install them.
 
 Also take your time and enjoy the process of building.  Rushing 
 usually leads to mistakes.  Likewise do not shortcut the 
 instructions.  They were written to help you avoid mistakes!  Use 
 pencil to check each off as you work (I also check parts shown in 
 diagrams as they are installed).  Often the shows up an error before
 I go too far.
 
 K3/10 sn 4340
 KX3 sn 475
 
 73, Ed - KL7UW
 http://www.kl7uw.com
  Kits made by KL7UW
 Dubus Mag business:
  dubus...@gmail.com
 
 __
 Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Gary Smith
Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is 
the only screwdriver to use on those screws.  As Charlie said, they 
are ID'd by the dot on the head.

Gary
KA1J

 If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
 service 
 work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS
 (Japanese 
 Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different
 from the 
 Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are
 usually 
 identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the
 cross 
 slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and
 Japanese 
 imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.
 
 73, Charlie k3ICH
 
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
 To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 
 
 ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...
 
 And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will
 become 
 worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp
 edges --  
 any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new
 screwdrivers) will 
 result in stripped screw heads more often.
 
 Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular)
 and 
 clean up those old screwdrivers.
 
 73 phil K7PEH
 
 
 On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
 wrote:
 
  Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips
 Screw 
  Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap
 screwdrivers 
  that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them
 away, if 
  not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for. 
 Buy a 
  static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the
 construction 
  manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read
 them again 
  and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get
 help 
  until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part
 again so 
  you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order
 the 
  manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you
 need to 
  plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket
 then use 
  as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
  something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move
 it a 
  little then be sure to
  tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be
 careful 
  and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but
 every 
  step is important and must be done correctly.
 
  Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
  K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart
 
 
  
  From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
  Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner
 
 
  Hi. I´ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it
 together 
  properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
  73,
  Carl Yaffey  K8NU
  Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
  recording studio.
  cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
  614 268 6353, Columbus OH
  http://www.carl-yaffey.com
  http://www.grassahol.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-18 Thread Doug Faunt N6TQS +1-510-717-1197
My perception is that the JIS drivers are the best fit for Elecraft 
screws. I've never gotten a response from Elecraft about their choice of 
drivers.

73, doug

On 18-Jan-14 16:03, Gary Smith wrote:

Absolutely true. Same for Japanese motorcycles which I repair, JIS is
the only screwdriver to use on those screws.  As Charlie said, they
are ID'd by the dot on the head.

Gary
KA1J


If you're REALLY serious about using the right tools, and do any
service
work on Japanese radios, you might want to buy a set of JIS
(Japanese
Industrial Standard) screwdrivers.  The cross drive is different
from the
Phillips or Frearson (Reed  Prince).  Compatible screw heads are
usually
identifiable by a single depressed dot or an X to one side of the
cross
slot. This is a screw standard throughout the Asia market and
Japanese
imports. The driver has a 57° point with a flat tip.

73, Charlie k3ICH



- Original Message -
From: Phil Hystad phys...@mac.com
To: WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Saturday, January 18, 2014 1:02 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


ditto on the high quality screwdrivers...

And, replace them every now and then because even high-quality will
become
worn over the years.  You want the flutes to have nice clean sharp
edges --
any rounding at all (which is common on poor quality new
screwdrivers) will
result in stripped screw heads more often.

Also, you can take a file (I use a saw sharpening file, triangular)
and
clean up those old screwdrivers.

73 phil K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 8:06 AM, WILLIS COOKE wrco...@yahoo.com
wrote:


Be sure you have good tools!.  Buy a new, high quality #1 Phillips

Screw

Driver and use it.  Round up all the Reed and Prince cheap

screwdrivers

that you bought at the bargain store and preferably throw them

away, if

not keep them with the punches, that is all they are good for.

Buy a

static mat, read the instructions and use it.  Read the

construction

manual from front to back.  If you don't understand them, read

them again

and again until you do.  If you still don't understand them, get

help

until you do.  Before you do anything read the appropriate part

again so

you really know what to do.  Follow the instructions in the order

the

manual prescribes and be sure you understand each step.  When you

need to

plug in a part, make sure that you have the right plug and socket

then use

as much force as required to seat the plug fully.  When assembling
something, if it will not go, loosen some screws so you can move

it a

little then be sure to
tighten them before you go on.  There is no magic formula, just be

careful

and forget the hi-hi until you are sending Morse.  It is easy, but

every

step is important and must be done correctly.

Willis 'Cookie' Cooke, TDXS DX Chairman
K5EWJ  Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart



From: Carl Yaffey cyaf...@gmail.com
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Friday, January 17, 2014 3:11 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner


Hi. I´ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it

together

properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro.
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner --- addendum on kits...

2014-01-18 Thread Phil Hystad
Thanks Don -- I will go searching for one of those tomorrow.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jan 18, 2014, at 10:27 AM, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 Phil,
 
 Yes, those capacitors are getting more and more difficult to read. My 
 solution is a small lighted handheld magnifier.  I think it was designed for 
 reading - look in your local drugstore.  As I recall, I found it at Walmart.
 
 Just plain magnification is not enough - the lighting helps immensely
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 1/18/2014 1:07 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:
 Also, while we are on the kit-building theme I have a problem with small 
 parts such as small capacitors.  I know this is not a problem with the SMT 
 kits like the K3 or KX3 and so on but I remember when I did the 80/30 option 
 for my KX1 there were several capacitors and none of my methods would work 
 to read the printing on these things.  I have several good magnifying 
 glasses, a magnifying lamp, and so on.  I could not read them at all.  I had 
 to grab my Fluke DVM and use that to measure the capacitance to determine 
 which was which.
 
 
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[Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-17 Thread Carl Yaffey
Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.
73,
Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Banjo, guitar, bass, mandolin, dobro. 
recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com







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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-17 Thread Don Wilhelm

Carl,

Think anti-static.  Use a wrist strap as a minimum, but an anti-static 
mat in addition is highly desirable.
The idea is to keep everything within reach at your work area at the 
same potential.
Do *NOT* use a fully conductive work area (like a cookie sheet) - that 
can be a hazard to your well-being in case there is a short of some kind 
- sparks and molten metal spewing into the air and onto your body is 
possible.  The anti-static mat and the wrist strap can connect to the 
ground screw on the plate of an AC receptacle - but make certain the 
receptacle is properly grounded, you can check with an inexpensive 
tester that can be found at your DIY or hardware store in the electrical 
department.  Driving a ground stake is totally unnecessary, and can in 
itself be a hazard if it is not connected to the utility entrance ground 
stake with a #6 or larger copper wire.  As I indicated, the idea is to 
keep everything at the same potential (even through a high resistance).  
The wrist strap will have an internal 1 megohm resistor to assure your 
safety.


2nd, buy yourself a *new* good quality #1 Phillips screwdriver - do not 
skimp on quality for that item, stripped or partially stripped 
screwheads can reward you if you ignore this small item.  Some will tell 
you to use a magnetic screwdriver, but I don't like anything magnetic at 
my workbench - they pick up bits of metallic things and drop them in 
places where Murphy says they will cause the most damage.


Other than that, follow the instructions in the order written - and do 
an inventory up front.  If you do not understand any step, stop and ask, 
there will be several on this reflector that will try to clarify for you.


Have fun with the build, in the end you will have a great transceiver.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/17/2014 4:11 PM, Carl Yaffey wrote:

Hi. I’ve just ordered a K3 kit. Any suggestions for putting it together 
properly? Yes, I know to be very careful - hi hi.



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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner

2014-01-17 Thread Bill W2BLC
Patience and care will reward you with the best, most versatile, most 
customizable XCVR currently on the market.


Day one: I set up a folding table by the stove, sorted (using a couple 
of egg cartons for small parts), and read the complete directions.


Day two: I spent about six or seven hours doing assembly. Take your time 
- read the directions twice.


Day three: Completed assembly and testing - another five or six hours.

Be sure to get the Fred Cady book - it will help you understand the real 
capabilities of the K3 and show you how to use them.


Since then, I have used the K3 five or six hours daily - sometimes more. 
Complicated and complex? Sure is. Take the time to learn the radio. You 
will be rewarded with a great experience.


Get a pitcher and some ice - you will need it for the Kool Aide. It took 
me nearly a year to fully appreciate the K3 and become an official Kool 
Aid drinker.


Bill W2BLC K-Line

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner here

2013-03-18 Thread David Windisch
Jon, iirc, if you remove the larger bottom  panel, you can read the offset
from the filter itself.
Brgds,
Dave, N3HE



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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner needs help

2012-06-17 Thread ac8jd
Thanks to everyone here for the suggestions!  I already had the internal Mic
set to FPL.H with bias off, but did not see that you could push 7 there to
add pre-amp!  This seems to have done the trick.  So much so that I set the
MIC Sel to FP.L!

This group has been a huge help for my first experience.  As I get more
acclimated with the rig and monitor this reflector, I hope to able to give
back myself as well as seek more of your expert advice!

73!
AC8JD

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[Elecraft] New K3 owner needs help

2012-06-16 Thread ac8jd
I am a CW 95% of my operating time.  I have the CW side of this rig pretty
down pat.  And it is really a great rig for that!

I am however having trouble with SSB.  I have a PR40.  I bought the correct
cable for the PR40 for the K3 from Heil.  I have the ALC and COMP dialed in
just fine, but when I transmit on SSB I get less than half the RF power from
what I have the rig set for.  (K3/100).  I also noticed that the RF meter on
the K3's front panel doesn't even budge when I TX on SSB.

Any help would be appreciated.  I don't get on SSB much but when I do, I do
it to Rag chew with friends.

TNX,
AC8JD

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner needs help

2012-06-16 Thread Jack Berry
Don't know about the PR40 but if it is an electret mic you will need to turn 
the bias on. You'll see mic bias in the menus somewhere. 

Good luck,

Jack

On Jun 16, 2012, at 8:41 PM, ac8jd ac...@arrl.net wrote:

 I am a CW 95% of my operating time.  I have the CW side of this rig pretty
 down pat.  And it is really a great rig for that!
 
 I am however having trouble with SSB.  I have a PR40.  I bought the correct
 cable for the PR40 for the K3 from Heil.  I have the ALC and COMP dialed in
 just fine, but when I transmit on SSB I get less than half the RF power from
 what I have the rig set for.  (K3/100).  I also noticed that the RF meter on
 the K3's front panel doesn't even budge when I TX on SSB.
 
 Any help would be appreciated.  I don't get on SSB much but when I do, I do
 it to Rag chew with friends.
 
 TNX,
 AC8JD
 
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner needs help

2012-06-16 Thread ac8jd
Settings are FP.H bias.

The meter does not even move on the RF.

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner needs help

2012-06-16 Thread John_N1JM
Quite sure the PR40 doesn't need bias. Looks like you have it on. You should
turn off any bias.

John N1JM

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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner needs help

2012-06-16 Thread Dale Boresz
The PR40 may benefit from the microphone preamplifier that is built into 
the K3. To access it, tap the 'Menu' button and rotate the VFO-B knob 
until you see MIC SEL.

Once there, you have a couple of options:
- GAIN RANGE:
Tapping the 1 button on the keypad will toggle the microphone gain 
setting between .Low and .High, where .High provides significantly more 
gain.

- MICROPHONE PREAMP:
Tapping the 7 button on the keypad will toggle the microphone preamp 
on and off.

Although both of the above can increase the available gain for the 
microphone, it's been my experience that if you find you need the 
additional mic gain, it's better to get it from the Microphone Preamp 
(7) (with the Gain Range set to Low) -- rather than by setting the Gain 
Range (1) to High.  Just my opinion. I'd suggest you experiment by 
transmitting into a dummy load while monitoring your signal on another 
receiver.

73, Dale
WA8SRA

On 6/16/2012 9:41 PM, ac8jd wrote:
 I am a CW 95% of my operating time.  I have the CW side of this rig pretty
 down pat.  And it is really a great rig for that!

 I am however having trouble with SSB.  I have a PR40.  I bought the correct
 cable for the PR40 for the K3 from Heil.  I have the ALC and COMP dialed in
 just fine, but when I transmit on SSB I get less than half the RF power from
 what I have the rig set for.  (K3/100).  I also noticed that the RF meter on
 the K3's front panel doesn't even budge when I TX on SSB.

 Any help would be appreciated.  I don't get on SSB much but when I do, I do
 it to Rag chew with friends.

 TNX,
 AC8JD

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[Elecraft] New K3 owner - and why

2010-01-06 Thread Rick Stealey

I built a K1 several years ago and like you would expect me to say I was 
impressed with everything about the rig, building it, the documentation, 
support, etc.  For the past 13 years the 1000MP has been my main home station 
rig.
Last year in Dayton I stopped by the Elecraft booth just to turn some knobs 
since I didn't have the cash to get a K3 at the time.  Eric was there and gave 
me a great demo of the receiver.  He had a little keyed interferer and showed 
me how close he could get it to a desired signal - impressive.  How great it 
was to get to spend a few minutes not with some marketing guy, or a hired girl 
handing out caps (although I always get one, figured I deserve it because after 
all I DO own some of their rigs), but with the designer of the rig who not only 
designs it but stands 100% behind it.  I told Eric then that it was not a 
question of whether I would get a K3 but when.  So, that time is now, and mine 
is on its way, somewhere out in the midwest on a UPS truck heading for NJ.
So Eric, I just want you to know that not only did I just order mine but my 
friend who was with me at the time already got his.  A lot of us believe in 
what you are doing.  Service DOES matter.
I'm looking forward to getting my new 10 watter on the air, and getting my feet 
wet, and hopefully being able to contribute something positive to the reflector 
from time to time
Rick  K2XT
  
_
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Re: [Elecraft] New K3 owner - and why

2010-01-06 Thread Don Wilhelm
Rick,

You have already contributed something positive to the reflector.
Enjoy you new K3 and let us know your experience with it.

73,
Don W3FPR

Rick Stealey wrote:
 I built a K1 several years ago and like you would expect me to say I was 
 impressed with everything about the rig, building it, the documentation, 
 support, etc.  For the past 13 years the 1000MP has been my main home station 
 rig.
 Last year in Dayton I stopped by the Elecraft booth just to turn some knobs 
 since I didn't have the cash to get a K3 at the time.  Eric was there and 
 gave me a great demo of the receiver.  He had a little keyed interferer and 
 showed me how close he could get it to a desired signal - impressive.  How 
 great it was to get to spend a few minutes not with some marketing guy, or a 
 hired girl handing out caps (although I always get one, figured I deserve it 
 because after all I DO own some of their rigs), but with the designer of the 
 rig who not only designs it but stands 100% behind it.  I told Eric then that 
 it was not a question of whether I would get a K3 but when.  So, that time is 
 now, and mine is on its way, somewhere out in the midwest on a UPS truck 
 heading for NJ.
 So Eric, I just want you to know that not only did I just order mine but my 
 friend who was with me at the time already got his.  A lot of us believe in 
 what you are doing.  Service DOES matter.
 I'm looking forward to getting my new 10 watter on the air, and getting my 
 feet wet, and hopefully being able to contribute something positive to the 
 reflector from time to time
 Rick  K2XT
   

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[Elecraft] new K3 owner sn 497, need help with choosing microkeyer cable

2009-03-29 Thread David Shelton
Hello all Elecrafters,
microHam sells two different cables for the K3 to use with the  
microKeyer/microKeyerII one that uses a front microphone jack and the  
other that uses the rear microphone jack. Aside from the obvious, one  
doesn't clutter the front panel with a cable all the time, is there  
any other advantages to one over the other? Also anyone out there that  
has the original microKeyer and upgraded to the microKeyer II please  
explain what the advantages are with using it on the K3.
Thanks and 73,
David, N4IN
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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner sn 497, need help with choosing microkeyer cable

2009-03-29 Thread Joe Subich, W4TV


 microHam sells two different cables for the K3 to use with the  
 microKeyer/microKeyerII one that uses a front microphone jack 
 and the other that uses the rear microphone jack. Aside from 
 the obvious, one doesn't clutter the front panel with a cable 
 all the time, is there any other advantages to one over the 
 other? 

The only difference is that the rear mic version does not support 
the up/down controls or the +8V line that are available on the 
front mic jack.  If you were to try to use a Foster style mic 
that required power or had up/down buttons they would not work 
with the rear mic cable (when the buttons are supported). 

 Also anyone out there that has the original microKeyer and 
 upgraded to the microKeyer II please explain what the 
 advantages are with using it on the K3.

The advantages are in the additional features of microKEYER II 
- specifically the USB sound card, dual channel receive for KRX3 
support, Icom transceive output for use with Icom accessories 
(e.g., band switching with a PW-1), native control of a SteppIR 
antenna, or an auxiliary serial port for rotor control. 

73, 

   ... Joe Subich, W4TV 
   microHAM America 
   http://www.microHAM-USA.com 
   http://groups.yahoo.com/group/microHAM 
   supp...@microham.com 
 



 -Original Message-
 From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net 
 [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Shelton
 Sent: Sunday, March 29, 2009 9:54 AM
 To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner sn 497,need help with 
 choosing microkeyer cable
 
 
 Hello all Elecrafters,
 microHam sells two different cables for the K3 to use with the  
 microKeyer/microKeyerII one that uses a front microphone jack 
 and the  
 other that uses the rear microphone jack. Aside from the 
 obvious, one  
 doesn't clutter the front panel with a cable all the time, is there  
 any other advantages to one over the other? Also anyone out 
 there that  
 has the original microKeyer and upgraded to the microKeyer II please  
 explain what the advantages are with using it on the K3.
 Thanks and 73,
 David, N4IN 



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[Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)

2008-06-19 Thread Gary Nichols
I ordered my new K3 at Dayton which is scheduled for delivery in Sept.  My
question to the group is:

Will the radio come with some version of software or firmware installed or
be dumb as a box of rocks just out of the box and require some version of
downloading before it will work at all.  Any heads up for when the radio
arrives would be appreciated.  TIA, de gary, kd9sv

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)

2008-06-19 Thread Bob Tellefsen
Hi Gary
Mine came with software/firmware already installed.
However, they recommend you download after
testing to ensure you have the latest.  Worked
fine without the download, but always nice to
have the latest and greatest.
Good luck and 73
Bob N6WG
The Little Station with Attitude

- Original Message - 
From: Gary Nichols [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:19 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)


 I ordered my new K3 at Dayton which is scheduled for delivery in
Sept.  My
 question to the group is:

 Will the radio come with some version of software or firmware
installed or
 be dumb as a box of rocks just out of the box and require some
version of
 downloading before it will work at all.  Any heads up for when the
radio
 arrives would be appreciated.  TIA, de gary, kd9sv

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Re: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)

2008-06-19 Thread Don Wilhelm

Gary,

It will arrive with firmware loaded, but it is a good idea to download 
the latest firmware as soon as possible so your K3 can be 'up-to-date'.


You can download K3 Utility (this is the firmware loader) at any time 
and go from there.  K3 Utility has several features that may help you in 
setting up your K3 configuration (particularly the filters).  K3 Utility 
and the latest firmware files are available from the Elecraft website.  
The K3 Utility help file can guide you in selecting a folder to hold the 
files on your local computer - it will check and download the latest 
firmware files if you tell it to do that.  All in all, it is an almost 
painless process.


73,
Don W3FPR

Gary Nichols wrote:

I ordered my new K3 at Dayton which is scheduled for delivery in Sept.  My
question to the group is:

Will the radio come with some version of software or firmware installed or
be dumb as a box of rocks just out of the box and require some version of
downloading before it will work at all.  Any heads up for when the radio
arrives would be appreciated.  TIA, de gary, kd9sv

  


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RE: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)

2008-06-19 Thread Mike Fatchett W0MU
I will have software installed.  There is a not included that says to
upgrade to the latest version ASAP. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Gary Nichols
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 9:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] new K3 owner (soon I hope)

I ordered my new K3 at Dayton which is scheduled for delivery in Sept.  My
question to the group is:

Will the radio come with some version of software or firmware installed or
be dumb as a box of rocks just out of the box and require some version of
downloading before it will work at all.  Any heads up for when the radio
arrives would be appreciated.  TIA, de gary, kd9sv

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