RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-30 Thread Steve Kallal
OK, I know this thread is over two weeks old, but I have to chime in.

I have two of the 275 watt Johnson Matchboxes. One needs repairing right
now. I think the 80 meter switching is defective.

I borrowed an idea from a review on eham.net. The Matchbox doesn't do well
with low impedances. The reviewer said to use a toriodal Un-Un to step down
the impedance. And it works! A toroid at the input doesn't suffer from the
disadvantages that the toroid on the output as a balun does. It will always
see a non-reactive load when you tune the Matchbox. The only real downside
is the extra gadget hanging off of the Matchbox with coax leads.

Another idea is to move the tap on the input link closer to the grounded
end. I moved it down a couple of turns. My delta loop with balanced feeders,
wouldn't tune on 80 without the Un-Un mentioned above. Moving the tap down a
couple of turns did trick.

It is too bad the link coupled tuners aren't made anymore. Yes MFJ makes the
974H. I have it and it does match well on all frequencies. But the small
knobs are touching to work it on some loads. Also the review in 9/2004 QST
showed to 974H not to be as efficient on the lower bands on lower
impedances. The Matchbox showed real high efficiency. The Un-Un might reduce
the efficiency a little, but it is way better than an output balun. Moving
the input coil tap is probably the most efficient of all.

I hope this info helps some of those how have a Matchbox, but are frustrated
by the limited tuning range.

73,

Steve N6VL
K2 #2289

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Goody K3NG
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 11:00 AM
To: Elecraft List
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can be bad
news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply).  Under highly
reactive loads, a balun used like this can become quite lossy.  
There's a couple articles in publications and on the Internet on this, but
Cebik's article is one that comes to mind (
http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ).  It's better to run a real balanced
tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line tuner, or others, if
you can.


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RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-17 Thread Craig D. Smith
 It can be quite tedious to build one's own ladder line.  Wire size and
 spacing between wires is a critical factor in determining the resulting
 impedance of the line.  Maintaining consistent spacing between wires
 is difficult.  

All of this is quite true.  But let me play devil's advocate.  I maintain
that keeping a constant impedance (and hence spacing) is not at all
important.  The impedance of the line could vary over a wide range (200 to
600 ohms, to pick some numbers) along the length of the line and the most
important characteristics would still be conserved.  1) The line would still
be low loss.  2)  At any given point along the line current balance would
still be maintained, even if the spacing was different than at another
point.

Most of us do NOT depend on the characteristic impedance of the ladder line
to do an exact impedance transformation from the antenna to the rig.
Rather, we use a tuning network at the transmitter end of the ladder line to
do the needed impedance transformation.  All a variable spacing on the
ladder line means, in pragmatic terms, is a slightly different setting of
the antenna tuner.

I've built only one ladder line recently and the construction technique
resulted in perhaps a +/- 20% variance in the spacing along the line.  It
works just fine.

73
   ... Craig  AC0DS




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-17 Thread Don Wilhelm
I have not seen it mentioned yet, but the best installation of open wire 
line will tension the conductors between 2 supports.  That means fewer 
spacers are required because the tensioned wires do not sway as much in 
the wind.


For my part, PVC spacers are easy to construct and inexpensive.

73,
Don W3FPR

Joe-aa4nn wrote:

It can be quite tedious to build one's own ladder line.  Wire size and
spacing between wires is a critical factor in determining the resulting
impedance of the line.  Maintaining consistent spacing between wires
is difficult.  For closely spaced wires (eg. 1.5 to 2.0 inch for 450 ohm)
slight variations in spacing is very critical to maintaining consistent
impedance; whereas for 6 inch spacing there is less effect on impedance
with slight variations in spacing.  Eg. 6  inch spacing using #12 wire 
will

give approximately 600 ohm open wire feeders.  More info at:

http://www.cebik.com/trans/par.html
http://www.cebik.com/gup/gup31.html

I find lexan difficult to cut due to the low melting point and clogged
saw teeth.  Plexiglass is a little bit better.  I would opt for the 
smallest

PVC pipe, cut into 6.5 inch lengths.  Cut a 1/4 inch depth notch in
either end wide enough to accept #12 wire.  Use a band saw, scroll
saw or hand held saber saw.  After inserting the wire in the PVC,
put a dab of Marine Glue and Sealant on there, or other quick drying
adhesive.
de Joe, aa4nn
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Curt,

There seems to be a misconception among hams that when using 450 ladder 
line, a 4:1 balun is the best thing to use.  While that may be true in 
some cases, in many other cases, a 1:1 balun will serve better.  It all 
depends on the feedpoint impedance of the feedline at the shack end, and 
that has little relationship with the fact that 450 ohm line is being 
used - i.e. the  feedpoint impedance is *not* the characteristic 
impedance of the transmission line in most cases.  The feedpoint 
impedance looking into the shack end of a multiband antenna can vary 
from extremely low to extremely high - it all depends on the length of 
the antenna and the length of the feedline.


That being said, I would suggest that you use an Elecraft BL2 right at 
the output of the KAT100.  Try it at the 1:1 setting first, and then try 
the 4:1 setting to see which produces the better results for each band.  
It would be informative to measure the impedance into the unbalanced end 
of the balun with an antenna analyzer on each band - use the setting 
that does not produce an extremely low of extremely high SWR on the 
analyzer.  Often adding or subtracting a length of feedline will bring 
the feedpoint impedance into a better range for matching.


73,
Don W3FPR

Curt Milton wrote:

I admit I enjoyed using a KAT100 at FD, but I wonder
how much value it would be at my station.  


For feeding my wire antenna with balanced line, I
suspect I need an external balun, that has to go
someplace, and better to be attached to one of the
tuner inputs.  Currently I use a manual MFJ tuner
(with its internal 4:1 balun) to operate my wire
antenna on 30, 40, 80 and 160m.  I can imagine the
autotuner being useful here, but I can't envision the
balun to use and how to attach it to the KAT100.  


My other antennas are 2 multiband verticals (80/40 and
20/17/15/12/10), and these are nicely matched where I
operate - so not much utility for the KAT100 here.  


So will a KAT100 make my QSY more seamless, and what
balun to use and how to integrate it ?

  

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RE: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Craig Rairdin
For Field Day this year I had my K2 hooked up to a 130' dipole fed by ladder
line. We ran that to a 4:1 balun and a few feet of coax to the KAT100. It
tuned it up nicely on all bands. We had no trouble working anyone we called.

Craig
NZ0R

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Curt Milton
Sent: Thursday, November 15, 2007 11:50 AM
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line


I admit I enjoyed using a KAT100 at FD, but I wonder
how much value it would be at my station.  

For feeding my wire antenna with balanced line, I
suspect I need an external balun, that has to go
someplace, and better to be attached to one of the
tuner inputs.  Currently I use a manual MFJ tuner
(with its internal 4:1 balun) to operate my wire
antenna on 30, 40, 80 and 160m.  I can imagine the
autotuner being useful here, but I can't envision the
balun to use and how to attach it to the KAT100.  

My other antennas are 2 multiband verticals (80/40 and
20/17/15/12/10), and these are nicely matched where I
operate - so not much utility for the KAT100 here.  

So will a KAT100 make my QSY more seamless, and what
balun to use and how to integrate it ?

73, curt



 


Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Goody K3NG
Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can be 
bad news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply).  Under 
highly reactive loads, a balun used like this can become quite lossy.  
There's a couple articles in publications and on the Internet on this, 
but Cebik's article is one that comes to mind ( 
http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ).  It's better to run a real 
balanced tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line tuner, or 
others, if you can.


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Curt,

There seems to be a misconception among hams that when using 450 
ladder line, a 4:1 balun is the best thing to use.  While that may be 
true in some cases, in many other cases, a 1:1 balun will serve 
better.  It all depends on the feedpoint impedance of the feedline at 
the shack end, and that has little relationship with the fact that 450 
ohm line is being used - i.e. the  feedpoint impedance is *not* the 
characteristic impedance of the transmission line in most cases.  The 
feedpoint impedance looking into the shack end of a multiband antenna 
can vary from extremely low to extremely high - it all depends on the 
length of the antenna and the length of the feedline.

--

Blog: http://thek3ngreport.blogspot.com/

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy

On Thursday, November 15, 2007 at 7:00 PM, Goody K3NG wrote:

Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can be bad 
news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply).  Under highly 
reactive loads, a balun used like this can become quite lossy.  There's a 
couple articles in publications and on the Internet on this, but Cebik's 
article is one that comes to mind ( 
http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ).  It's better to run a real 
balanced tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line tuner, or 
others, if you can.


-

Well put Sir!

As a comment to the List, the usual type of cored current balun presented 
with a reactive load might appear not to be introducing loss because QSOs 
can be made, but as the members of our QRP fraternity well know contacts 
both 'local' and DX can be made using very low power given the right 
propagation conditions. Proof of this loss can be had by increasing Tx power 
up to the power rating of the balun at which point the balun could well 
explode if it has not already at a lower power, it will certainly becomes 
hot to touch. As K3NG says your mileage might vary because the antenna's 
feedpoint impedance as transformed by your feeder and seen by the balun 
might by happy fluke be non-reactive, feeder length and feeder impedance are 
factors, leaving only the R to deal with. If R turns out to be 200 ohms, 
then a 1:4 balun would work well with a Tx which wants to see a load of 50 
+j0.


FWIW I agree with K3NG that the classic balanced tuner such as used in the 
Matchbox is the best system to use when feeding a balanced line, good 
efficiency and versatile.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD 


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Don Wilhelm
You are quite correct.  My favorite tuner of all is a link coupled 
balanced tuner, and it is L B Cebik's favorite too - low loss and can be 
configured to match just about anything - series tuning for low 
impedances or parallel for higher impedances.  I have built many over 
the years.  No balun required anywhere. If I were able to bring 
ladderline into the shack, I would have one of my old balanced tuners 
with the plug-in coils to match the transmitter to the ladderline - but 
I can't do that (don't ask!), so I use resonant antennas fed with coax 
and clean up any required additional tuning with a KAT100.


But, one must admit that the KAT100 does offer a lot of convenience to 
the operator, even though it has some drawbacks - it is not balanced, 
and for those who are fortunate enough to bring ladderline into the 
shack, it can be used with a balun.  It is a workable solution as long 
as some cautions are observed to minimize the loss.  One cannot defeat 
the laws of physics, but for those who must use an unbalanced tuner and 
a ladderline fed multiband antenna, the KAT100 followed by a balun may 
be an acceptable solution.  Adjust the feedline length so as to provide 
a decent feedpoint impedance at the balun without a lot of reactance, 
and use a current type balun (a voltage balun just will not work well in 
this application), and one can get on the air - it certainly is better 
than no antenna at all.


73,
Don W3FPR

Goody K3NG wrote:
Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can be 
bad news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply).  Under 
highly reactive loads, a balun used like this can become quite lossy.  
There's a couple articles in publications and on the Internet on this, 
but Cebik's article is one that comes to mind ( 
http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ).  It's better to run a real 
balanced tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line tuner, 
or others, if you can.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread w2bvh
I've been using Cecil Moore's (W6RCA)  No-Tuner with 450 ohm ladder 
line for about 7 years along with a K2 / KAT-2 and it has been a 
pleasure to use and pretty effective.


It's basically a box of 5 4pdt relays out in the yard that switches 
in/out combinations of 16, 8, 4, 2 and 1 foot lengths of 450 ohm ladder 
line to the main 450 ohm feedline to get a close match in the shack, and 
the KAT2 does the rest. The input to the relay box is fed with RG8X with 
a bead balun on the coax right at the box input.  The idea is to switch 
just enough extra line in to get a current antinode at the antenna 
feedpoint for the frequency of operation. For a 80 meter half wave 
antenna (with 10 meter fan element tacked on), the main 450 ohm feedline 
is about 85-90 feet long. I've worked/confirmed ~140 countries using 
this antenna with 12 watts or less (mostly 5 watts). And I'm not much of 
a dx fanatic.


73,
Lenny W2BVH




Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy wrote:

On Thursday, November 15, 2007 at 7:00 PM, Goody K3NG wrote:

Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can be 
bad news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply).  Under 
highly reactive loads, a balun used like this can become quite 
lossy.  There's a couple articles in publications and on the Internet 
on this, but Cebik's article is one that comes to mind ( 
http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ).  It's better to run a real 
balanced tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line tuner, 
or others, if you can.


-

Well put Sir!

As a comment to the List, the usual type of cored current balun 
presented with a reactive load might appear not to be introducing loss 
because QSOs can be made, but as the members of our QRP fraternity 
well know contacts both 'local' and DX can be made using very low 
power given the right propagation conditions. Proof of this loss can 
be had by increasing Tx power up to the power rating of the balun at 
which point the balun could well explode if it has not already at a 
lower power, it will certainly becomes hot to touch. As K3NG says your 
mileage might vary because the antenna's feedpoint impedance as 
transformed by your feeder and seen by the balun might by happy fluke 
be non-reactive, feeder length and feeder impedance are factors, 
leaving only the R to deal with. If R turns out to be 200 ohms, then a 
1:4 balun would work well with a Tx which wants to see a load of 50 +j0.


FWIW I agree with K3NG that the classic balanced tuner such as used in 
the Matchbox is the best system to use when feeding a balanced line, 
good efficiency and versatile.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 with Ladder Line

2007-11-15 Thread Lamb, Dick Judy
I've been very pleased with my MFJ-974, a true balanced tuner.  My  
measurements of feedline current with RF ammeters indicate that  
overall it is as efficient as my home brew link coupled tuner with  
plug in coils.  I've used the MFJ tuner with several combinations of  
feedline lengths and radiator lengths, and I've never failed to get a  
perfect match on all bands from 80 m to 10 m.


I'd like also to mention that Dipole3.exe is an excellent, free, and  
very easy to use program for modeling a dipole fed with balanced  
line.  You can play with different values of feedline length and  
radiator length, as well as many other parameters, to determine  
efficiency and impedance at the transmitter end of the feedline.  One  
source of Dipole3.exe is http://www.smeter.net/software/dipole3.exe  .


Dick, K0KK


On Nov 15, 2007, at 1:00 , Goody K3NG wrote:
vf
Using any balun with an unbalanced tuner to feed balanced line can  
be bad news (your mileage may vary, standard disclaimers apply).   
Under highly reactive loads, a balun used like this can become  
quite lossy.  There's a couple articles in publications and on the  
Internet on this, but Cebik's article is one that comes to mind  
( http://www.cebik.com/link/l-bal.html ).  It's better to run a  
real balanced tuner like a Johnson Matchbox, the MFJ Balanced Line  
tuner, or others, if you can.


Don Wilhelm wrote:

Curt,

There seems to be a misconception among hams that when using 450  
ladder line, a 4:1 balun is the best thing to use.  While that may  
be true in some cases, in many other cases, a 1:1 balun will serve  
better.  It all depends on the feedpoint impedance of the feedline  
at the shack end, and that has little relationship with the fact  
that 450 ohm line is being used - i.e. the  feedpoint impedance is  
*not* the characteristic impedance of the transmission line in  
most cases.  The feedpoint impedance looking into the shack end of  
a multiband antenna can vary from extremely low to extremely high  
- it all depends on the length of the antenna and the length of  
the feedline.

--

Blog: http://thek3ngreport.blogspot.com/

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